SS 2017
kilgoretrout.com
unhurried and uncommon since 1977
NORTH COAST SPRING STYLE LA BELLA FIGURA STYLE IS MORE THAN SKIN DEEP UNBELIEVABLE EATS FROM AROUND THE WORLD
HAUTE FI GRAF TI ARE MURALS THE NEW MUSEUMS?
28601 Eton Chagrin Boulevard Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 kilgoretrout.com facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland
PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi
22
ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER
The Fashion Forum
Michelle Brown EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Menghi
FEATURES 25 42 58 62
DESIGNER
Jean-Nicole Venditti
Made for You: Jeans and Polos Wine: So You Want to be a Sommelier? Food: Over-the-Top Eats Art: Outdoor Renaissance
CONCEPT DIRECTOR
Andrew Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
John Frascone
FASHION 9 20 24 26 28 36 40 44 45 50
The Bon Vivant Back to Basics Profile: Canali Profile: Brax Spring Must-Haves for Her Profile: L’Agence Profile: Veronica Beard Profile: Billy Reid Getting Sneaky Style of the Sun Gods
45 Getting Sneaky
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Marios PORTLAND, OR / SEATTLE, WA Mitchells WESTPORT, CT / HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN
DEPARTMENTS 4 6 8 22 37 38 41 60 64
Welcome Letter In Store: Events Ask Forum for Him The Fashion Forum Ask Forum for Her Designers: Inspired Design Destinations: Milan Insider Picks In Store: Services End Page: Why Clothes Matter
Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA
FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM. © 2017 FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE, A UBM® PUBLICATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. UBM AMERICAS, 2 PENN PLAZA, FLOOR 15, NEW YORK, NY 10121. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ADVERTISERS’ CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS
58 Food: Over-the-Top Eats
MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 20, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
LIKE BEAUTY, STYLE IS MORE THAN SKIN DEEP. AND IN ITALY, THEY HAVE A NAME FOR IT…
La Bella Figura
T
ranslated literally, it means “the beautiful figure.” It’s the most Italian of
beauty. La bella figura is the totality of how a person chooses to make the best possible
impression when he or she steps out into the world. It is the philosophy that selfpresentation and refinement—in all forms—matter: from making the effort to always look
“Their suits, their shirts, their ties, their shoes, their haircuts, even their fingernails were all beyond perfection…Bella Figura.
one’s best to keeping a clean and up-to-date closet. And from knowing how to interact
To present a bella figura to
with others in any business or social situation to always remembering that each of us has
the world, no matter what
a responsibility—regardless of what’s going on in our own world—to add a bit of beauty,
was going on inside, was
respect and courtesy to the day of others.
an Italian tradition that
For people like the guys above—photographed on the streets of Milan—creating la bella figura may seem effortless. We all know nothing worthwhile ever is. But by building a
reached from the nobility to the peasants.”
wardrobe of quality clothing, tailoring it for a flawless fit, and wearing it with confidence
— Judith Krantz in The Lovers
and ease, you’ll be on your way. And in that department, we can help. This spring, let’s dress with care, and let’s live deliberately and kindly. Let’s make sure those around us know that we appreciate them and respect being around them. This season, let’s celebrate la bella figura. Thank you for shopping with us, and we hope you enjoy this issue of our magazine. Remember, we’re always here to advise and help you look your best as you step into the world. We look forward to seeing you at Kilgore Trout. Wally Naymon, Shopkeeper
STREET STYLE IMAGES FROM THEIMPRESSION.COM
concepts, and contrary to how it may sound it’s much more than a wink to physical
in store
MARCH 10-11 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA MADE-TO-MEASURE WITH GRAVATI FOOTWEAR Join Ermenegildo Zegna made-to-measure specialist Alessandro Acquadro for the ultimate Su Misura experience. Discover the new spring seasonal fabrics, check out the Casual Luxury made-to-measure collection, and preview expanded in-stock collections from Ermenegildo Zegna and Z Zegna. Plus, Barbara Roche will be here to help you select or customize your spring Gravati shoes. Call or email your sales consultant, or just stop in.
Events
(Trout Club points will be earned.)
THROUGH APRIL 1
MARCH 31 - APRIL 1 FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
OUR RESTAURANT DEAL IS BACK! Spend $500 or more in one Kilgore Trout visit and we’ll reward you with a $100 gift certificate to a Zack Bruell restaurant. It’s our most popular offer, so take advantage soon. Through April 1, 2017 or while supplies last. Not valid with any other offer or discount. One per customer.
Kilgore Trout is located at Eton Chagrin Boulevard, just one half-mile east of Interstate 271/Chagrin Boulevard exit. 28601 Chagrin Boulevard, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 216.831.0488, kilgoretrout.com Shop Monday-Saturday 10-6, Thursday 10-8
SAMUELSOHN MADE-TO-MEASURE WITH MAGNANNI FOOTWEAR
Customary made-to-measure fees will be waived. Free Magnanni belt with Magnanni shoe purchase. Dorian Anderson will be in store with the extraordinary spring fabric swatches from Samuelsohn, maker of performance suits and sport coats. Plus, Colin Combes with the latest men’s footwear from Magnanni, and a special gift with your Magnanni purchase. (Order must be placed at event. Trout Club points will be earned.)
MORE EVENTS TO BE ANNOUNCED
Connect with kilgoretroutcleveland on Facebook and Instagram for the latest news.
TROUT CLUB MEMBERS EARN POINTS WITH EVERY PURCHASE, AND RECEIVE OUR MAGAZINE BY MAIL! Accrue 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchases, and receive a $50 reward for every 1,000 points. Then spend your reward dollars like cash during redemption periods. (*Men’s footwear, alterations, shipping and sales tax are not eligible when earning or redeeming Trout Club points. Visit kilgoretrout.com for full details and to enroll.)
WHEN YOU NEED US, WE’RE HERE. CONTACT US ANYTIME AT 216.831.0488, OR EMAIL YOUR SALES CONSULTANT DIRECTLY: Wally Joel Cheryl General
wnaymon@kilgoretrout.com jtstecker@kilgoretrout.com cmacmaster@kilgoretrout.com info@kilgoretrout.com
Laura Steve Lyon
lmarotta@kilgoretrout.com swright@kilgoretrout.com ldavidson@kilgoretrout.com
Paul Chrissy Andrea Sandy
pconnors@kilgoretrout.com cstone@kilgoretrout.com anaymon@kilgoretrout.com shossack@kilgoretrout.com
ask
I’d like a new sport coat that’s not a basic blazer. What do you suggest?
Q:
I see a lot of guys wearing What kind of shirt would look shorter, tighter suits these great worn both with and days; is that still the look for 2017? without a tie?
Q:
Q:
Patterns, be they subtle or loud, are definitely happening in spring sport coats. We love the more muted plaids in shades of blue, berry or soft gray, but feel free to make a bolder statement if you dare, especially since these fashion-forward sport coats work as well with jeans and fivepocket pants as they do with dress trousers.
Only if you’re comfortable in it. The more important factor is that the suit should fit: anything too baggy or long is definitely out of style. Some general rules: shoulders should reflect your natural shoulder stance, sleeves should allow a quarter to a half-inch of shirt cuff showing, buttons on the coat shouldn’t pull, pants (whether flatfront or pleated) should feel comfortable, without ripples but without excess fabric. Trouser length should skim the top of your shoe, but a slight break is also acceptable. Fortunately, today’s suits in new performance fabrics enhance both fit and comfort. Let us show you a few exciting options.
There’s a new kind of shirt referred to as a hybrid: somewhere between dress shirt and sport shirt. Often, there’s a button between the traditional first and second button positions, so that even if you’re not wearing a tie, the impression is neater. Look also for sporty details like contrast fabric in the collar and/or sleeve cuff, contrast buttons, or brightly stitched buttonholes that won’t show if you’re wearing a tie. Speaking of new spring ties, why not try a more casual knit, or a seasonal blend with cotton, silk or linen?
8
IMAGE COURTESY OF ETON
SPRING 2017 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
Seasonal Must-Haves for the Kilgore Trout Gentleman
Art Direction | Christopher Hixson
Photography | Jim Martin
Retouch | Mike Steiner
Phil Petter wool blend sweater jacket, Zanone Ice cotton polo, S.M.N “Hunter” slim-straight five-pocket jean
Luciano Barbera seersucker suit and linen pindot shirt, Torino genuine crocodile belt
Etro silk jacket, dress shirt, cotton trouser, pocket square and Phantasmagoria belt
Camo jacket, cotton polo, cotton trouser, all Mason’s
Linen crew sweater and pub sweater, both Inis Meáin, S.M.N “Hunter” five-pocket jean
Moncler mixed-media jacket, Goodlife tee, PTO5 five-pocket jean
“Dustin” suit, cotton shirt, silk necktie and pocket square, all Isaia
Harris Wharf soft linen jacket, Xacus linen shirt, PT01 hand-painted washed cotton pant
Paul Smith quick-dry swim trunks
Sol Angeles button-front polo and waves cotton tee, Paul Smith straw hat
1
ALL-DAY SHORT Perfectly tailored, flatfront Faherty short with a vintage sun-washed finish and the technical aspects of a board short. Built-in drawstring, zip fly, hidden back pockets and quickdry properties in case you feel like taking an unexpected swim.
3
GARMENT-DYED POLO A great combo of casual comfort and refined styling makes these Faherty polos unlike any other knit in your closet. Luxury cotton knitted with slub texture and washed for ultimate softness.
2
4
CLASSIC CREW TEE Crafted of incredibly soft Supima-blend jersey with deep colors and a flattering fit, and sporting scalloped hem detail. Made by Goodlife in Los Angeles.
THE SUMMER JEAN The PT05 “Jazz” five-pocket, completely reimagined from a conceptual revolution. Classic, timeless styling of American “work pants” rethought to include just a bit of stretch and a modern profile.
the FASHION forum
By Brian Scott Lipton
PACK IT UP!
W
ith airlines charging more each day for checked baggage and even for carry-ons, savvy business travelers are constantly searching for smart solutions that allow them to fit more apparel in one bag—and have it arrive at their destination looking just as fresh as it did in their closet. Europeanbased luggage maker Vocier’s C38 bag (part of its smartly curated collection) is one very clever answer to this nagging problem: the patented “Zero-Crease” system allows you to pack two suits in a special protected sleeve that gently curves around the interior of the bag, protecting your suits from wrinkles. In addition, there’s plenty of room in the interior pocket for shoes, shirts, socks, underwear and belts—even a wash bag to take everything back home!
MAGNIFICENT OBSESSIONS Window dresser extraordinaire Simon Doonan prizes his “Prince head.” Fashion designer John Bartlett treasures his late father’s 1975 Cincinnati Reds World Series ring, while actor Tony Goldwyn proudly displays one of his family’s favorite heirlooms—a large Buddha statue—in the bay window of his living room. How do we know these things? Thank jewelry designer Monica Rich Kosann, who has interviewed more than 65 world-famous personalities about their favorite things in her impressive coffee-table tome, A Possession Obsession (Glitterati Incorporated). Kosann’s gorgeous photography accompanies each revealing interview, with words and pictures adding up to some of the most beautiful stories ever told.
22
The Fashion Forum
CHARGE IT!
Cashmere and cotton are eternally chic, but two things currently at the height of fashion are sustainability and electric cars. So it’s no wonder that one of the world’s most fashionable hotel chains, The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, has installed charging stations for electric cars at select properties across the globe, from San Francisco to Barcelona. Two stations at each hotel allow drivers the ability to charge their cars for up to 150 miles in a mere two and a half hours. So the next time you’re on vacation, you have no excuse not to hit the streets—and you can feel good about doing it!
CURTAIN CALL
T
heater aficionados know that London and New York are the transcontinental capitals of this beloved art form, so it makes perfect sense that the exhibition Curtain Up: Celebrating the Last 40 Years of Theatre in New York and London has relocated from London’s Victoria & Albert Museum to New York’s Public Library for the Performing Arts. Through June, this special installation highlights how the theater districts of both cities have flourished and developed since 1976, and features designs, models, photographs, archival production materials and multimedia elements from such award-winning shows as Mary Poppins, Chicago, Wicked and many more. Fashionistas will be particularly delighted by the costumes on display, including masks from Phantom of the Opera, masks and African garb from The Lion King, and titular footwear from Kinky Boots. So make a run for the fascinating show while there’s still time. (Just don’t break a leg.)
23
profile
Master of Giorgio Canali
Style
On what it takes to be the best. Would you share a brief background of the company?
Canali was founded near Milan in 1934 by two brothers, Giovanni and Giacomo Canali. The decades that have passed have seen the arrival of new generations, new energy and new vision for the company, but through all this, we’ve maintained our dedication and passion for our work. Today Canali is an undisputed international leader in tailor-made luxury with our own centers of production (all in Italy), more than 1,800 employees, 250 boutiques, and over 1,000 retail stores in more than 100 countries.
Did you always know you’d work in the family business? Not exactly, but it became sort of natural. Growing up in the company and being constantly exposed to various aspects of the business, I developed a growing interest.
What are the joys and headaches? The joys and headaches reflect the pride and, at the same time, the responsibility of working in a company that bears your name. A business that your own family created and built gives you much motivation, but also a fair amount of pressure.
Who has been your mentor or role model? Definitely my father: he has transferred to me his passion and dedication. What’s more, he taught me respect for other people’s work and their efforts, and to always remember our responsibility towards the talented artisans who work here.
BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
expert tailors on an internal canvas structure, guaranteeing a more comfortable, durable and elegant garment. We take pride in using fabrics that represent the very best of local Italian mills; we work closely with them to design patterns and colors and blends so that the majority of our fabrics are exclusive.
There has been much talk about fit in recent seasons: can suits get any slimmer? It’s not a question of slim or not, it’s more about a focus on freedom and spontaneity. Men expect their clothing to be elegant, comfortable and in synch with today’s lifestyle. A slimmer silhouette often gives a guy a more youthful, tailored look. Elegance lies in the right balance of numerous components, not on any extreme.
How do we get American men to dress more Italian? If a man isn’t comfortable in what he’s wearing, he can never be elegant. That said, the secret to an ‘Italian look’ is sprezzatura—a term first made popular by Baldassare Castiglione in his 16th-century handbook The Book of the Courtier. He used it to express the uniquely Italian art of making things look effortless. A key element in Italian style is that an outfit never look forced, uncomfortable or unnatural. Anyone can achieve this by wearing garments that combine fine fabrics, expert cutting and beautiful design, all intrinsic to a Canali suit.
Can you talk about Su Misura? Canali’s Su Misura is the highest expression of the Canali experience, elevating the excellence of Canali craftsmanship to a new level. Our customers love the personalized and unique experience, where our experts analyze the specifications of your physique and then translate this information into a perfect suit incorporating the characteristics of comfort and elegance that are the hallmarks of our tailoring.
What differentiates a Canali suit from the competition?
How would you describe your personal style?
The secret to a Canali suit lies in its construction. We are proud to craft our garments according to time-honored sartorial tradition. Our suits are built by
I would define it as discrete elegance, updated but with a nod to classic. On weekends, I enjoy wearing sophisticated sportswear, but I often add a sport coat and dressy shoes.
24
MADE FOR YOU
Announcing our new “design your own” program: jeans and polos with singular style, fit and comfort. Custom Jeans Program
Custom Polos Program
We’ve partnered with one of Japan’s finest mills to produce bespoke jeans customized just for you.
Dozens of luxurious fabrics, unlimited customization and your choice of slim, sport or relaxed fit.
JAPANESE DENIM
WOVEN COLLARS
A range of fabric weights, colors and finishes from the Kojima region, home to the finest denim in the world.
Custom collars that maintain their shape wash after wash.
VERSATILE TREATMENTS & WASHES Choose the innovative treatment method that’s right for you.
PROVEN FITTING PROTOCOL Highly accurate fits that are the envy of other denim makers.
CUSTOM BUTTONS & POCKETS Choose from a variety of button finishes and pocket styles.
THREADS Consider every last detail, down to the color of your thread.
Stop in and start designing your summer polos, Henleys, popovers and jeans today.
PLACKET, POCKET & COLLAR ACCENTS Opt from an array of trims to personalize your shirts.
BUTTONS Hone every last detail with custom button choices.
COOL MOISTURE WICKING Apply wicking management to any of our fabrics.
FINEST COTTONS AVAILABLE Easy-care blends that resist shrinking, fading and wrinkling.
profile
the
Bottoms
GERMAN BRAND BRAX IS QUICKLY BECOMING THE AMERICAN MAN’S GO-TO FOR PANTS. BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
line
Sure, every man needs a great-looking blazer, a soft cashmere sweater and a well-tailored shirt, both to gain attention and feel put-together. However, without comfortable, well-fitting pants to complete the look, you’ve only won half the battle. So it shouldn’t be surprising that bottoms from German-based Brax, a company with over a century of experience, have become many men’s go-to since recently being introduced in America. Men have quickly grown to appreciate the brand’s durability, comfort, performance and consistency in fit (not to mention the fact that it offers a broad range of waist sizes). “What’s so great about these pants is that they’re dressy enough to go with a sport jacket, but casual enough to become what we call an anchor bottom,” says Russ Fearon, president of Throat Threads Apparel, the U.S. distributor of Brax. “The modern aesthetic, soft luxurious feel and stretch comfort create phenomenal value for the sophisticated-casual consumer.” Above all, though, Brax has become valued for its versatility. “American men have found they have a need for a more dressy pair of pants in their wardrobe than jeans, something they can wear to the office and then to a business dinner or a nice restaurant,” Fearon explains. As he points out, the pants’ fabric is a key selling point for Brax. “The Germans have been using the finest Italian and German weaving mills for their products for more than 100 years,” Fearon continues. “All the fabrics are exclusive to Brax, and we work with them closely to create something that is highly engineered, with a luxury feel, yet at a great price point for the American consumer.” (Most Brax pants retail for $189 to $249.) In addition, Brax pants are washable, and many men appreciate that convenience. “I think Brax has carved out a space all its own: a pant that is perfectly positioned between sophistication and leisure,” says Fearon. “And the one thing I know for certain is that whenever a new customer puts on a pair of Brax for the first time, they immediately say, ‘Wow!’”
26
From left: L’Agence distressed soft denim jacket Veronica Beard fringe-edge jacket Herno summerweight down and mixed-media jacket
Spr must-haves for her
Art Direction | Christopher Hixson Photos | Jim Martin Retouch | Mike Steiner
ring!
Easy to wear, flo From Left: True Royal cotton gauze blouse L’Agence sheer draped tank Balossa white cotton shirt
owing and fun!
Veronica Beard nautical moto jacket, L’Agence “Margot” high-rise skinny vintage white jean, made in L.A.
Dress to fit you
ur many moods.
Veronica Beard ”Stevie” fringe moto jacket with three-way zipper
Hudson embroidered denim “Souvenir” jacket and “Nico” mid-rise super skinny embroidered jean.-
Embellish, exp
periment, enjoy.
Alessandro Chamonix hooded military vest and Hudson slim cotton cargo joggers
profile
L’Agence, Je t’aime
BY NICOLA HARRISON RUIZ
When you think of French style, an effortlessly chic, feminine and confidently dressed woman immediately comes to mind. But achieving that perfect balance—looking put-together without trying too hard—is not as easy as it seems. Enter L’Agence, a Los Angeles brand that has been strongly influenced by Parisian style since its inception in 2008. With a vision to create silhouettes that make women look and feel beautiful, the collection is built upon essentials that are sexy yet sophisticated, basic while body-conscious, tapping into that French girl attitude with a cool California touch. Take, for example, the Rita blouse, the ideal date-night top. The drape-front, long-sleeve silhouette displays a flattering shawl neckline, is shorter at the front so you don’t have to think about whether to tuck, and offers a subtle feminine touch in its delicate, slightly sheer fabric. The Bianca blouse, on the other hand, is a silk chiffon style that will go seamlessly from the office to cocktails tucked into a pencil skirt or under a blazer. In denim, the high-rise Margot, mid-rise Brigitte and lowrise Chantal are all part of the line’s new French Jean Collection, which is made with fabrics from Isko, the industry leader in high-performance stretch denim. It keeps its shape, hugs, holds and gives in all the right places, but comes back to where it’s supposed to be no matter how much you wear it. The contoured waistband (with construction borrowed from menswear) means the jeans won’t gap or reveal too much and greatly reduces chance of the dreaded muffin top, elevating these styles to ultimate denim status. Femininity is a key component of L’Agence designs, which can be seen in something as simple as a lightweight knit sweater with a deep V in the back, embracing the classic French ability to be at once sexy and classy. The spring collection features hints of military style: stars and studs, and lots of neutrals like gray and army green with pops of crimson. But L’Agence won’t stray far from what its customers have come to know and love—essential pieces that women actually want and need in their wardrobes.
36
ASK FORUM Spring 2017 FASHION TIPS for her
Q:
How can I experiment with the military trend while keeping my overall look feminine?
what the Color of the Year is. Some years you see everyone
We’re glad you asked! Great new army-inspired jackets for
when shopping for the season. Greenery in particular works
every age and body type can be paired with something
best as an accent in small pops. (And it certainly wouldn’t be
more ladylike, like skinny jeans or a flouncy
our first pick for an eyeshadow or lipstick shade!)
wearing it, and some years the only place you see it is in the limited-edition makeup palette at Sephora. But it’s not meant to be dictatorial; you should think of it as a springboard
skirt, on the bottom. (Turn to our Spring Must-Haves
If it just doesn’t appeal to you, there are plenty of other ways to keep your wardrobe current, so not to worry.
on page 28, where you’ll see echoes of the trend in
On the other hand, if you do happen to look
Veronica Beard’s brass buttons and
good in an uncommon color, wear it and
Alessandro Chamonix’s star-studded
flaunt it! It’s a real opportunity to look
cargo pockets.) We’ve also got a cropped
different from everyone else, and some-
blazer with perfectly pressed inverted
times standing out can be a lot of fun.
pleats, and short bombers embellished
Q:
with floral embroidery, fun patches or
Which new brands should I be on the lookout for the next time I visit the store?
feminine silk sleeves. While we haven’t jumped on the bomber bandwagon in the past, this season almost all of our favorite designers were offering them; they were just too pretty to be ignored. We took a chance, and we hope you will too!
Q:
At Kilgore Trout, our goal is to bring you the lines and items we know you want, but also to help you step outside your comfort zone and offer something new. So we’ve brought in some brands we think you’ll love to give a twist to your tried-andtrue favorites. Since the athleisure look is still alive and thriving in the Cleveland area, try luxe sport-inspired pieces from Sen, in the softest fabrics you will ever feel. We know you can never get enough white button-down shirts, so come in and check them out with cool, funky details from Italian brand Balossa. True Tradition, with its menswear-inspired but still feminine blazers and tops, is perfect for those of you who crave a borrowed-from-the-boys style. These items (and many others) are bringing a fresh, updated look to the floor at Kilgore Trout. Come in and let us show you how they can do the same for your closet.
Military-inspired brass button details: Veronica Beard fringe-edge jacket
In the past I’ve shied away from bright colors, and green in particular, but this year green seems to be everywhere. How can I ease this shade into my wardrobe?
We noticed the same thing when shopping the spring/summer 2017 collections from our favorite brands, and Pantone solidified the trend when they named Greenery as the 2017 Color of the Year. Try it in small doses, like on an accessory; in a less attention-getting shade like khaki green or dark olive; or on your bottom half so the color isn’t so close to your face. People in the fashion world sometimes get hung up on
37
designers
INSPIRED DESIGN WE ASKED OUR MOST FASHIONABLE FRIENDS ABOUT THE IMPACT OF ART ON THEIR CREATIVE PROCESSES.
ARNOLD BRANT SILVERSTONE, HICKEY FREEMAN & SAMUELSOHN I came across this photograph of rock formation called The Painted Desert, a visually wondrous place in the Badlands of Arizona. The band of colors struck me as ethereal. It stayed with me for days and I ultimately designed a
BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
whole collection for Hickey Freeman spring/summer 2017 inspired by it with layers
MIKE FAHERTY, FAHERTY
of dusty rose, tan and putty.
From an early age I was interested in art and found myself practicing it
The arid essence of
frequently. I was lucky enough to grow up near New York City, so I had
the desert image natural-
access to some of the world's greatest museums. Early on I was drawn to
ly led to crafting a looser
more classical art styles like Impressionism, but through my education I
silhouette, which is a
was exposed to more eras of art and I found myself most excited about
pendulum swing from
the Abstract Expressionistic works of Gerhard Richter. His beautiful use
the previous season. We cut the interior canvas of our jackets on the bias
of color inspires me to this day.
for a fashionable drape. We hand-tailored incredibly light canvases and
When I started following Richter's artworks, it became clear to me that I
interlinings for feather-light construction combined with summer’s most
was mostly drawn to his
exotic fabrications. Silk runs throughout the collection to add quiet strength
use of color combinations.
to tissue-fine fabric and to add a whisper of luminosity.
As I made my way into the fashion world, I fell in love with designing tex-
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI
tiles and creating my own color combinations in
I have a passion for literature as an art form and really value reading. My favorite and most-read book is Mediations by Marcus Aurelius. I have drawn many life lessons from his words and messages from the stories he writes. I discovered the book early on in my career and it has guided me in my life since. I instantly connected with its messages and the writings have become close treasures. I have read this book numerous times and continually take away something new each time I read its passages. The foundation of the brand and the collection begins with the philosophies and ideologies that I believe in, many of which I discovered through the teachings of Marcus Aurelius. Just as the great philosophers value legacy, humanity and living a full life, these principles are carried with us as we design the collection each season.
prints and plaids, which are found throughout my collections at Faherty. You have to walk a fine line when creating textiles and prints that stand out so that they are still easy to wear with the rest of your wardrobe. When you walk into a museum or gallery and Richter is on the wall, you are immediately drawn to his use of color. But as you get closer, there is an easiness to the color combinations that makes them seem less daunting. That's always my intention when designing our textiles: at first you're drawn to them from across the store, but as you approach them, they become more inviting to wear.
38
BOB CORLISS, ROBERT TALBOTT In my mind the most thoughtful and inspirational painting is Michelangelo’s The Creation of Adam, part of the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. The two hands coming together is such a powerful image and it talks about anything being possible. It’s motivational as well as beautiful. But to tell you the truth, our surroundings are our biggest inspiration. We live in a really special location—The Monterey Peninsula—and Carmel in particular is one of the most spectacular places on the planet. Mountains, valleys, oceans in beautiful colors; we call it God’s canvas. The weather patterns are very dynamic, but it never gets extremely hot or cold. We have different people from all over the world visiting at all times. Those factors all influence the colors and styles that make up our collections. The design process is a collaborative journey between our creative director Mark Calder and his very talented team. We started as a neckwear company and have an archive that houses every design dating back to 1950, also a source of endless inspiration for us.
SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, ETON If I had to choose one work of art that really blew my mind I would have to say La Divina Commedia by Dante, and Botticelli's depiction of it in La Carte de l'Enfer. I really didn't know who Dante was or what La Divina Commedia was when I picked it up at 18 years old. It was an Italian version that I bought in London and I could hardly understand anything, but I tried my best. Then I read it through in English online and it was more an experience than just a book. Hard to put words on it. I would not say that a specific piece of art has inspired me or my work though. I always walk around with my eyes open. Having to constantly come up with new ideas and concepts to develop
GIANLUCA ISAIA, ISAIA
into mood boards for our brands means that I can’t
My favorite works are the Napoli landscapes of Giacinto Gigante. Napoli is at the heart
get stuck too long in one idea.
of everything we do at Isaia. These references are seen in the way we create each piece
I wish I could say that Botticelli shines through
of clothing: Neapolitan tradition mixed with a contemporary point of view. What I also
my collections, but I can't (LOL). However, I always
like about this painter is that he was introduced to his craft by his father, just like I was
do my best and push myself so that whatever we set
introduced to sartorial tailoring by my father, Enrico Sr.
our minds on doing, we do it properly and put our
The colors in his pieces struck me first. They have a very dreamlike effect, but com-
hearts into it. In an ideal world I could spend one
bine different styles and techniques. I also like that he was a little bit of a rebel amongst
year on every collection. The hardest thing working
the Academy of Fine Arts in Napoli. This makes him very interesting as he did not try
in fashion is that it is so cyclic and with this constant
to conform his style too much.
need of news, you always feel that there is never
Just like Gigante we don't try to conform to trends. We like to create new ideas. We
enough time. But that's just how it is. Perhaps one
stay true to our DNA and don't change everything based on what the industry tells us.
day consumption will have to slow down and the
We observe what is happening around us, but remain true to who we are. Also, the
world will only focus on producing really well-made
depictions of Napoli that Gigante created are seen in each of our inspirations for the
stuff that's built to last for a decade. I'm proud that at
season. Napoli is always at the heart. We play with color the way a painter does. It’s just
Eton our goods last for a very long time.
a different art medium.
39
profile
Veronica
Beard
IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR. BY NICOLA HARRISON RUIZ
When two women with the same name marry brothers and decide to launch a clothing line together, things could go one of two ways! But after sisters-in-law Veronica Miele Beard and Veronica Swanson Beard left their respective career paths in finance and fashion to raise kids, they found themselves at family gatherings talking about favorite designers, must-have pieces and styling tricks. They recognized a void in the market for women who want cool, classic and chic clothing—women who love that country look but want pieces that can function for busy city or town life too. So in 2010 they launched Veronica Beard with their signature Dickey jackets, and they quickly realized they were onto something. Inspired by men’s sport coats that look great layered with sweaters, vests and scarves, the two Veronicas set out to create a layered look for women without all the bulk. With five silhouettes in the Dickey jacket collection and a range of new styles coming out each season, the style is built to work with a selection of interchangeable, one-size-fits-all dickeys or inserts, transforming the jacket thanks to a hidden zipper inside the lapel and three buttons around the collar. In the six years since its launch, the collection has grown into a complete sportswear brand that provides daytime wardrobe staples with extra polish, from elegant blouses and finely tailored blazers to cozy knits. The spring 2017 collection strikes the balance between nostalgic and modern with preppy gingham trousers, classic plaid wrap dresses, lightweight army jackets and feminine floral dresses. True to their initial concept of versatility, many of the pieces in the collection are adjustable to wear throughout an entire season from warmer to cooler days. As busy moms with eight children between them, the sisters are dedicated to catering to the customer who needs a look to take her from breakfast meeting to cocktail party, often picking up the kids in between.
40
INSIDER PICKS
The best places to eat, drink, party (and recover) in this world fashion capital. BY MARIO BISIO When I’m in Milan twice a year on buying trips, I have a few favorite restaurants. For lunch, I love Bagutta. Known as “the trattoria of trattorias,” it’s a fun place with colorful art and wonderful food. I usually order a salad and a pasta. My favorite is the simplest: pasta pomodoro that’s out of this world. Another good lunch option: the cantina in the Kiton Palazzo, the Milan headquarters for this esteemed clothing company. Their mozzarella arrives fresh every day by train from Naples. You cannot find anything more delicious than caprese salad with the best mozzarella, the freshest tomatoes, the purest olive oil… While it’s open only to industry insiders, I invite our customers to join us anytime! For dinner, I love Da Ilia. I go for their incredible risotto, their perfect veal Milanese, their special ensalata tropical and any of their homemade pastas. For fish, I choose La Risacca 6. Both the
sip and stare as the bestdressed people in the world pass by. As for shopping, you can find fabulous inspiration in the Corso Como neighborhood. I suggest you take notes in Milan but save the actual purchasing for when you get back home, just in case you need to make a return! Finally, to lift your spirits, be sure to visit the Duomo. Go in the daytime when there’s sunlight and absorb the immense power of this magnificent structure. Its majesty and spirituality are truly life-affirming.
raw fish and the cooked dishes are simply prepared from the freshest seafood in Milan! I also can’t resist their spaghetti vongole—molto buono! Of course, one must make time for cocktails. Be sure to check out the bar at the Diana Majestic Hotel. It’s behind the curtains, and super cool. For amazing views to go with your cocktails and tapas, try the Radio Rooftop: it’s the best place to contemplate Milan’s skyline and take in the energy of the city. My favorite hotel is the Principe di Savoia: it’s an old hotel with an amazing history that’s been the place to stay for cosmopolitan society since the 1920s. There’s also a fabulous workout facility on the rooftop level. It’s not inexpensive, but I’ve been going there for so long that it feels like home. Of course the main activity in Milan is fashion, and the best way to absorb it is over a cappuccino or an aperitivo. Just sit,
41
FROM TOP: SHUTTERSTOCK/ALEXANDRE ROTENBERG, LA RICASSA 6, LA RICASSA 6, SHERATON DIANA MAJESTIC, RISTORANTE DA ILIA, SHUTTERSTOCK/MURATART
Milan:
wine
SO YOU WANT TO BE A
SOMMELIER?
There’s more to it than drinking great wines… BY LESLEY RUBENSTEIN at New Orleans’ iconic Commander’s Palace, owned by the Brennan family. “We have an extensive wine program,” Davis says. “Everyone can find something familiar here, but the real joy is to take guests on a journey that’s a little outside their comfort zone.” The wine cellar complements the restaurant’s “haute Creole” cuisine and reflects Davis’ passion for rare and underrepresented wine, history and food. Wine enthusiasts have taken notice: for the last five years, Commander’s has been a recipient of The Wine Spectator Grand Award, widely perceived as the most prestigious recognition in the world of wine. In 2016, Commander’s was nominated by the James Beard Foundation for the best wine program in America; The Daily Meal named its wine list the best in the U.S. “Wine and food go hand in hand,” is Davis’ mantra. “Wine is very much part of the meal in flavor and texture.” Commander’s has raised the staff’s level of wine knowledge by making the Court of Master Sommeliers Program mandatory for employees. Under Davis’ direction, 40 servers, plus managers, bartenders, kitchen staff, chefs and owners, passed the Introductory Course and Examination, the first level of the program. Twelve Certified Sommeliers, having attained the second level, walk the
t starts with a passion for wine, a love of learning and an ability to retain lots of details about grapes, geography, terroir, etc. It ultimately becomes a journey of research, deductive tastings, pairings, pourings and intense exams to finally become certified. Master Sommelier Dan Davis took his first sip of alcohol in college and tried his first taste of wine at the encouragement of a friend at a local tavern. Today, he serves as the director of wine and spirits
Above, the wine room at Commander’s Palace. Below left, Master Sommelier Dan Davis.
42
restaurant’s floors. Says Davis, “Education is the key to everything: it fosters a passion that the sommeliers bring to the customers. We’ve created a genuine wine culture.” Davis says the training is critical to a restaurant’s success. “Servers need to know the quality of the wine, and why it works in a specific context. They need to be able to pronounce vocabulary and feel comfortable talking about wine in a professional—but approachable and friendly—manner.” The Introductory Class is a two-day course led by Master Sommeliers that culminates in an extensive exam. It’s allencompassing, covering everything important to know about wine. Students also practice blind tastings and serving, although these skills are not tested at this level. “When I see my staff move from ‘Oh, I get to drink wine’ to ‘Oh, I get to sell this wine and provide an experience for the customer,’ I know the program has worked.” The Certified Examination, the second level, requires students to engage in self-directed studies followed by a three-part exam that tests theory, tasting and service. “You walk into the room to find two glasses of wine: one red and one white. You have 25 minutes to taste the wines and tell the Master Sommelier what they are. Then you take an exam that is fairly grueling, much harder than level one.” During the service portion of the exam, each candidate waits on a
Master Sommelier as a guest in an imaginary restaurant with an imaginary wine list. He or she can order any type of wine, and the candidate must know all about it. Candidates must also suggest wines for the guest’s hypothetical food order, conduct a mock service of a bottle of wine or Champagne, and serve an after-dinner drink. “Being certified is a very real credential with value. Basically, the Court of Master Sommeliers is saying that if they were running a restaurant, they’d hire you as a sommelier.” To take the Advanced Course, candidates must apply. They need a minimum of five years in the industry and must be accepted into the program, which provides a glimpse of what to expect from the third exam and, if invited, the fourth level: The Master Sommelier Diploma Exam. The process is difficult, and candidates spend years of grueling hours in preparation; only a small percentage eventually pass. Currently, there are only 125 men and 24 women in the U.S. who can call themselves Master Sommeliers. The unique opportunities, however, make all the hard work worthwhile. “A highlight for me was being with seventh- or eighth-generation winemakers in Burgundy and having them pull a 1917 bottle out of a cave, where their great-grandfather had hidden it from the Nazis. They popped it open, and we drank it, with much joy. It doesn’t get better than that.”
CURRENTLY, THERE ARE ONLY 125 MEN AND 24 WOMEN IN THE U.S. WHO CAN CALL THEMSELVES MASTER SOMMELIERS.
GOOD. BETTER. PERFETTO. A DEMANDING SCHEDULE REQUIRES TROUSERS THAT PERFORM PERFETTO FROM HILTL MEANS ALL DAY COMFORT AND ALL DAY PERFECT SHAPE. AVAILABLE IN COTTON, WOOL & DENIM
43
profile
Rock & Roll
Gent
THE AWARD-WINNING BILLY REID TAKES CLASSIC AMERICAN CLOTHING IN A MODERN DIRECTION. BY LAURIE SCHECHTER What makes your designs unique as well as American? I want to make clothes that are appropriate whether you’re living in Florence, Alabama or New York. I’ve spent much of my time in these two polar opposite worlds. I’ve realized that that “dual citizenship” continues to influence the collection and really helps bring a personal and real approach to the process.
What are your signature styles? Not so easy to answer as we cover many categories. People seem to love our outerwear, leather and knits. We try to put our own touches on each piece and hopefully, those subtle and often hidden details are what they fall in love with.
illy Reid got his start in fashion helping out in his mom’s boutique in Amite, Louisiana, eventually founding his eponymous brand in 2004. His aesthetic, once described as “Southern gentility with rock & roll appeal,” pervades full product offerings for men, women, footwear and accessories. His emphasis on USA manufacturing, proprietary textile development and high-quality construction sustain the label’s longevity. Forum spoke to him about his legacy and his spring collection.
What key pieces should a customer always have? I would tell any man that he needs a good suit, a navy blazer, some jeans that fit and a well-worn leather brogue. You can pretty much start there and make it work.
What new ideas do we find in your spring collection? This collection focuses on lightness in both color and fabric. I was really inspired by all the natural landscapes near my home, so we developed some prints using oysters, herons and palm leaves that we turned into short-sleeve shirts. We mixed these with washed linens, silks and easy luxury knits. Wearable and liveable.
What is your aim with every collection?
What are you most proud of?
We want to create pieces that become our customers’ favorites. I want them to be like furniture and live with you.
The community we’ve built around this brand. I get to work with my friends and interact with our community every day. We all place such a high value on authenticity and craftsmanship, and I hope that resonates.
How do your Southern life, early retail exposure, and music all inform your aesthetic?
What piece of advice would you give to your younger self?
My professional experience in retail and my personal experience having grown up with my mother owning a boutique certainly inspire my approach to business. My love for music and being based in Muscle Shoals is spiritual for us. It provides great creative energy.
If you want to get in the business, get your foot in the door and work your tail off. No job is a waste of time. Listen and learn.
And to your customer? Quality is key, and make sure you’re going to use what you buy.
44
PETER MILLAR OUTERWEAR, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SHIRT, PETER MILLAR PANT, W. KLEINBERG BELT, SHINOLA WATCH, MAGNANNI SNEAKER
SN GettingE A KY SLEEK LEATHER TRAINERS ARE A GREAT COMPLEMENT TO FIVE-POCKET PANTS. With a lightweight jacket and cool cotton shirt, this will become your go-to spring look.
PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHANE LAVANCHER. FASHION DIRECTION BY MICHAEL FUSCO. STYLING ASSISTANCE BY LEAH SNOW.
Top with a perfect polo and structured sport coat for a look that can take you from work to weekend.
ROBERT TALBOTT SPORT COAT, FAHERTY POLO, W. KLEINBERG BELT, KENTON MICHAEL BRACELET, JOES JEANS DENIM, LANVIN SNEAKER
THE CLASSIC JEANS AND SNEAKERS COMBO GETS A STYLISH UPGRADE WITH SUEDE.
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA OUTERWEAR, FAHERTY POLO, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI JOGGER, SHINOLA WATCH, ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA SNEAKER
STEP OUT OF THE GYM AND INTO THE PAGES OF GQ WITH SOFT, SLIM JOGGERS AND STYLISH SLIP-ONS. A half-tucked tee and performance outerwear keep things from getting sloppy.
ISAIA SPORT COAT POCKET SQUARE, ETON SHIRT, FAHERTY SHORT, TRASK SNEAKER ISAIA SPORT COAT ANDAND POCKET SQUARE, ETON SHIRT, FAHERTY SHORT, TRASK SNEAKER
When dressing up your shorts, trade the tired WHEN DRESSING UP YOUR SHORTS, DITCH THE sneakers. LOAFERS AND LET loafer look for burnished leather There’s no better way BURNISHED SNEAKERS THERE’S NOLEATHER BETTER WAY TO KEEPSUBIT IN. COOL, COMFORTABLE AND CLASSY. to keep it cool, comfortable and classy.
Kick your career into high gear with a fresh take on business casual. CRISP WHITE SNEAKERS AND A FITTED
BOGLIOLI SUIT, ZEGNA SHIRT, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI SNEAKER
KNIT SHIRT KEEP YOUR SUMMER SUIT SPORTY AND CHIC.
STYLE OF THE SUN GODS PHO T OGR APHY: SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR: MARCELINO MAKEUP: CL AIRE BAYLEY WARDROBE: WENDY MCNETT S T I L L- L I F E P H O T O G R A P H Y : B R I A N K L U T C H S T I L L- L I F E S T Y L I N G : A L E J A N D R A S A R M I E N T O F O R H A L L E Y R E S O U R C E S
THIS SEASON, DISCOVER AN ARRAY OF FRESH, POWERFUL LOOKS THAT SHINE AS BRIGHTLY AS THE SUN.
JACKET: MASSIMO ALBA SHIRT: PETER MILLAR JEANS: AG SHOES: VINCE
51
TRASK
EXPLORE CONTRAST AT THE INTERSECTION OF LIGHT & DARK.
FAHERTY
ETON
54
STYLES THAT STAND UP TO THE SUN’S RADIANT INTENSITY.
SHIRT: ETON JEANS: AG
ROBERT TALBOTT INIS MEÁIN
56
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
LOOK TO THE SUN & THE SHADOWS WILL ALWAYS FALL BEHIND YOU.
OVER-THE-TOP
EATS
In the name of total satiation, we traveled the world to dine under spectacular circumstances. BY SHIRA LEVINE 58
HOTEL DE GLACE IMAGE © DANY VACHON.
food
Climatic Cuisine There’s roughly a three-month window during which you can experience Quebec’s Hôtel de Glace (right), where you’ll quickly learn how chill feasting within an ice castle can be. Critical resources: hearty grub, puffy coats and a generator. Pop-up icy dining with an Arctic atmosphere is certainly a northern thing. Kemi, Finland’s Snow Castle, maintains a temp of -5 Celsius while serving local salmon, perch and lamb. Austria’s Kitzbühel Alps is home to Alpeniglu Dorf, an igloo restaurant serving fondues and boasting an open-air snow bar, as well as an ice church.
Epic food is subjective. Sometimes, a culinary adventure awaits domestically, in one’s very own hometown. But sometimes the most tantalizing feasts are those over-the-top experiential ones in far-flung locations. We compiled a list of global dining and imbibing spots that left tasty impressions on the mind—and better still, the palate.
Sea(in)side Fare Who doesn’t love a swim-up bar? The Lagoon Bar at Iceland’s Blue Lagoon (opposite page) is restorative twice over courtesy of healing waters and a signature cocktail for a full detox/retox encounter. In Costa Rica, at Tabacón’s Arenal Pool Bar, a ceviche dish served in waist-deep thermal waters doesn't cramp those seeking splashy crater views. The waters are rich in calcium, lithium and silica, and are naturally heated by the Arenal volcano’s magma. Barbados' Crystal Cove had us (rum) punch drunk in love with the waterfall entry to a cave bar where fish from the very waters guests wade in is prepared to order (right). And Las Vegas' Tropicana Hotel offers noshes to those who swim up to the waterproof blackjack table. But next level al fresco comes in acqua. In Bora Bora’s otherworldly lagoons, Tahitian tour operators curate motu picnics, Polynesian suckling pig feasts set in shallow sandbar’d waters.
worth traveling for. In southeast Wales, she’s Pauline Griffiths, owner of the unsuspecting Art Shop & Chapel. Located in Abergavenny, the café with courtyard garden is tucked below an old chapel and behind a market hall. What makes Griffiths like Waters are the ingredients: beetroot, leeks, curly kale and pheasant. Favorites? Grilled cheese with hawthorn berry ketchup, turmeric
golden mylk and oat milk lattes. Back across the pond, Woodberry Kitchen (above left) tantalizes in Baltimore. Chef Spike Gjerde is Charm City’s midAtlantic sourcing Alice Waters. The slowcooked turkey potpie with rutabaga cream and kohlrabi, rabbit dirty rice with buttermilk fried saddle, and koshihikari rice and snake oil are swoonworthy. Foodies at Anguilla’s CuisinArt
Resort should expect nothing less than a hydroponic farm-totable experience given, well, the gigantic onsite hydroponic garden (above right). Chef Jasper Schneider’s veggies nourish the menus of five foodspots at the resort, and the Caribbean Sea’s bounty of finned foods round out the fresh and local dishes: lionfish, snapper and lobster, oh my!
IMAGE CREDITS
Luxe Local Feasting
O
utside of California, there’s an “Alice Waters of” in a few special places. Indeed there’s but one Chez Panisse, but the finest and freshest seasonal ingredients culled by successors are a gourmet challenge
59
at your service
All Ways & Always
THE PEOPLE OF KILGORE TROUT ARE HERE TO HELP.
BUILDING RELATIONSHIPS Developing lasting personal relationships helps our sales associates select items that they know you will enjoy, and eases your shopping experience. We’ll always do everything we can to make you look and feel your best.
MADE-TO-MEASURE For the ultimate clothing experience and for hard-to-fit guys, indulge in made-to-measure suits, sport coats, shirts and trousers—even ties. The world’s finest fabrics and designers mean yours will be a fit like no other.
ALTERATIONS With four full-time master tailors, seamstresses and pressers on staff, we don’t mess around when it comes to having the finest tailoring shop in Cleveland. Expert alterations are always complimentary with every new, regular-priced purchase.
BUTTON UP A loose thread or button can be just the thing that unravels your day. Bring in any suit or outerwear with buttons that need assistance and we’ll re-attach or tighten them for you, on site and free of charge. We like you looking your best, down to the details. We’ll also handle other repairs and alterations for a small fee.
SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS We know your time is valuable. Whether before, during or after business hours, we are happy to arrange appointments in the store to assist you with your shopping needs. Just call 216.831.0488 and we’ll make it happen.
HOME & OFFICE VISITS Sometimes life or business gets in the way of finding time to stop by the store. No worries. We’re always available to come to your home or office. Give us a shout, and we’re there.
PERSONAL DELIVERY If you need to have a purchase hand-delivered within the Cleveland/Akron area, just let us know. We also ship worldwide.
CLOSET CLEANING In order to help you better integrate your new seasonal purchases with the old, we offer our clients a complimentary closet consultation. One of our professional sales associates will personally visit your home to inventory your closet, providing suggestions on how to creatively mix and match your existing wardrobe. One of our experienced tailors can also be on hand to provide any fitting or re-adjustments you may need. If you desire, we’ll provide a photographic catalog of your wardrobe for your future reference.
CUSTOMER LOUNGE In a hectic world, we need to take advantage of the simple pleasures—if only for a few minutes. Take a seat in our customer lounge, kick back with a freshly brewed cappuccino or bottled water, and enjoy a bit of the game on our big screen. We’re happy to provide a moment of solitude when you need it most.
TROUT CLUB Earn points with every qualifying purchase and receive this magazine by mail each season: 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchased—even sale items (excludes services/footwear). Rewards are issued equivalent to 5% of your total Trout Club points, so that’s a $50 reward for every $1,000 spent (and even more during bonus point days or events). Twice each year, we will email a summary of your available Trout Club rewards. You’ll earn points with every purchase, and a complimentary subscription to this magazine, mailed to your home each season.
GIFT CARDS A Kilgore Trout Gift Card is always a perfect fit. Our gift cards are available in any denomination and arrive in a gift box, ready to give. Purchase in store or over the phone. We’ll ship it to the recipient.
CLOTHING DONATIONS Service to our community is every bit as important as service to our customer. Declutter your closet while helping a good cause. Drop off your discarded, yet wearable, items anytime and we’ll donate them to a local charity providing clothing for Clevelanders re-entering the workplace.
CONVENIENCE Kilgore Trout is just a half-mile from Interstate 271 at Eton Chagrin Boulevard, the region’s finest shopping experience with great dining options and over 50 retailers to satiate your every need. Eton even has an on-site shoe shine vendor. Need to know more? Call us at 216.831.0488.
FOR ONE OF THE BEST FREE ART SHOWS IN THE WORLD, ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS LOOK UP. BY SHIRA LEVINE
hile strolling the industrial-hip streets of Oahu's Kaka'ako District in search of a cup of coffee, I come upon a familiar face and stop in my tracks. Before me is a portrait of a man, classic but for the fact that the magnificent painting stretches across the entire facade of a building on the unassuming corner of Ward Avenue and Kapiolani. I learn later that it’s titled Hapa, which in Hawaiian means “part” and refers to anyone with a mixed ethnic background. The artist, Kamea Hadar, is an Israeli/Japanese painter raised in Hawaii and schooled in Paris at the Sorbonne. The hapa man is President Barack Obama (who went to high school just three miles from this very location). "President Obama is a symbol of someone who is hapa; he represents the philosophy and the beauty of not only being mixed race, but promoting racial equality," says Hadar, also a co-creator of the annual international public art event Pow!Wow! “Public art is as important as a project that hangs in a museum for hundreds of years. Art can be impermanent and still important. We don’t need to hold on to it forever. The sun damages public art; it fades. When people realize that they start to pay attention.” Corporate, government and nonprofit-sponsored urban frescoes are frequently commissioned to fine artists. Post-industrial cities like Detroit, Baltimore and Pittsburgh are home to murals spon-
From top: Mural by Os Gemeos on the Bowery in NYC. LA street scene. Artwork in Valparaíso, Chile.
62
IMAGES BY SHIRA LEVINE
art
OUTDOOR RENAISSANCE
sored by banks and retail chains aiming to brighten neighborhood blight through local art and culture. Not that the clandestine installation of self-expression has ceased. The work of Shepard Fairey and Brazilian twins Os Gemeos couldn’t be so commonly appreciated without the (in their time) renegade installations by Keith Haring, Kobra and JR, who then paved the way for Swoon and Banksy. Commissioned or not, art in public spaces often challenges, enlightens and reflects counterculture ideas and emotions, giving voice to the ignored, illustrating history and tradition, and inspiring conversation among community members and tourists alike. “Works that exist outside the traditional museum context are no longer precious, contained, bound by the space of the museum or the physicality of the frame,” says Lizy Dastin of the Mural Conservancy of Los Angeles. “They become a natural extension of everyday life, rather than a cultural break from it. This physical accessibility regarding space is attractive. Street art is becoming more participatory. The artists themselves are accessible on social media, giving viewers the opportunity to engage with them directly.” Our favorite destinations for haute graffiti? New York City never disappoints. Urban art aficionados also treasure Philadelphia, the birthplace of outdoor expression. San Francisco, Los Angeles, Chicago, New Orleans, Seattle, DC and Austin are also home to some spectacular curbside fine art—worthy of attention beyond an Instagram selfie, and free to discover solo, with the help of an app, or, in some communities, on guided walking and biking tours.
Good food is a celebration of life. - Sophia Loren
EPSTEIN DESIGN PARTNERS, INC.
phone: 216.298.9131• email: contact@zackbruellevents.com • view: zackbruellevents.com
end page
WHY CLOTHES MATTER Musings on the art of dressing. BY JARROD WEBER
n my life, clothing has always been a family affair. My earliest memories of fashion date back to my mom encouraging me to select my own outfits when I was six years old. I didn’t realize it then, but this was the beginning of my addiction to clothing. Or more accurately, to the importance of wearing the right clothes. Even at that young age, matching items in my limited wardrobe felt like a huge responsibility. Although I tried to get my mom to help—“Mommy, which sneakers go with this sweatsuit?”—her response was always, “Which do you like?” Years later, when I was in law school, Weber, right, with a female friend was praising my fashion his dad, a fashion executive. sensibility to a group of students. One of the students remembered me from high school as “the guy who would tuck his flannel shirts into his sweatpants!” My father is a successful fashion industry exec who has headed big companies like PVH and LVMH. One of his maxims is that how you package yourself is as important as how you package your products. How you dress is one component of this; how you speak, how you treat people and how you think are other factors relevant to success, in business and in life. But clearly, your style says a lot about who you are. Your ability to put yourself together tells a story. Are you neat or sloppy? Modern or traditional? Creative or conformist? All these cues send a signal. Clothes tell your story before you even open your mouth. Is this fair? Nope, but it’s reality. Or as my father would say, “Fair is for kids.” I, for one, believe in suits. I believe in dressing up, in looking the part. I practiced law for almost nine years at a firm whose dress code
64
was “business casual unless seeing clients.” Unfortunately, few guys have a real handle on business casual, and it was embarrassing how some of these educated lawyers would come to work. My father always taught me that there’s no substitute for good taste. I have learned that in a business environment, it pays to always look your best. These are not your friends, they are associates and, like it or not, you’re competing. The senior-most people at the firm set the example, and they always looked professional, even on days with no client contact. Bottom line, it never hurts to look your best at all times. And I believe that most men look their best—most professional, most in control— when wearing a suit. Think of a general in the military, or a pilot: the uniform paints a picture of competence and strength. In the military there are precise rules for how to dress: not a single button can be out of place or a lapel creased. These rules are there for a reason: to create an image of order and respect. I’ve recently given up law for a career in fashion, where my style consciousness serves me well. Although creative casual is acceptable, you’ll always find me wearing a suit, and almost always with a tie. Ties are no longer mandatory these days, even in fine restaurants, but they’re a great way to complete an outfit and add a note of distinction and personality. I sometimes wonder whether, in my designer suits and ties, some people might consider my style a bit too perfect, too contrived, too planned out when in fact, I’m just a guy who appreciates nice clothes. Be that as it may, let’s all take the time to appreciate the person inside the clothing: the substance behind the style. For that, I have learned, is what truly matters.
WELCOME HOME Authentic Western Reserve charm meets Contemporary urban living at Walden. Nestled in Aurora’s most desirable neighborhood, this unique full-service condominium residence introduces a new way of living.
330 562 5508 yourwalden.com
KILGORE TROUT FORUM SS 2017
