Kilgore Trout Magazine F/W 2012

FORUM˜FALL 2012 UNHURRIED AND UNCOMMON SINCE 1977 KILGORETROUT.COM

A CHANGE OF SEASONS WARMING UP TO COOLER WEATHER

WHY CUSTOM?

WHY NOT? DEBUNKING SOME COMMON MYTHS

We’ll rock and roll out the welcome mat for a dozen of the greatest clothing retailers in America when they visit Cleveland this fall.

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HIS OCTOBER, WE’LL GET THE CHANCE TO SHOW OFF the North Coast

to our fellow members of the Apparel Forum, when our group of 13 premier retailers from coast to coast meets in downtown Cleveland. Selected for membership by their peers to an association of the top independent upscale merchants in the United States, each member store represents the best in their market—in selection, service and quality—and has a reputation for superior customer satisfaction. Having just completed my two year term as Forum president, I can’t wait to show off our Rock Hall, our casino, our town’s world-class dining, and of course, our home at Cleveland’s finest shopping destination: Eton Chagrin Boulevard.

I can share many reasons for buying from a Forum member, but perhaps the most important is that each of us is a committed member of our communities—family-owned businesses, in it for the relationships, not the quick sale. We are your personal style consultants who will do everything necessary to ensure that you look and feel good in your clothing, and we’ll be sure you have fun doing it. That might include a complete inventory and assessment of what’s in your closet at home, or a trip to your office to deliver a purchase or measure you for a custom garment.

Our expert European tailors will make your clothing fit flawlessly.

And, we’ll go the extra mile for you, responding to fashion

emergencies or even opening for special service beyond our regular hours. Our philosophy is simple, really. We do everything we can to offer you an unhurried and uncommon shopping experience, the finest quality clothing, tailoring and service, and value at every price point. These days, you can choose to shop anywhere, and we’ll never take that for granted. Our reputation is the most important asset we have, and we stand behind everything we sell. We rely on meeting new customers through the personal referrals of people like you, and for 35 years it has served us well. Thank you.

The next time your travels take you to a city with an Apparel Forum member store, stop in and say hello. They’ll treat you like family, just as we do. All of our reputations depend on it, and you’ll never be sorry.

We look forward to seeing you at Kilgore Trout this season, Wally Naymon, Shopkeeper See page 4 for the complete list of Apparel Forum member stores.

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welcome

THIS IS OUR TOWN

28601 Chagrin Blvd.

Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 Monday—Saturday 10–6 Thursday 10–8 kilgoretrout.com facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman

DESIGN DIRECTOR

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian LaRochelle

PROJECT MANAGER

FEATURES 2 8 30 58 60 62

Welcome Letter Upcoming Events Designers: Very Vivek Designers: Sebastian-Style Icons: The Marilyn Mystique Collections: Auction Awe

Lisa Montemorra DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero, Jean-Nicole Venditti

CONCEPT DIRECTORS

Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell

MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR

Bob Mitchell

DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION

Peg Eadie

DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton

BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

FASHION 6 11 32 34 35 40 42 53

Curating the New Cardigan Constructed Reconstructed Always Leave Home With the Right Coat Fit: The Evolution of the Suit Why Choose Custom?

The Merits of Made to Measure A Change of Seasons Footwear Forecast

DEPARTMENTS 10 28 50 54 56 64

Ask Forum for Him Ask Forum for Her World Scene Food: Roll With It Man of Style: High Notes End Page: Enough Already

Stuart Nifoussi

PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones

CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton

CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER

Christine Sullivan

APPAREL FORUM

Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Mario’s PORTLAND, OR/SEATTLE, WA Mitchells/Marshs HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards WESTPORT/GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 10 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM COPYRIGHT 2012. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-6866821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, TRANSPARENCIES OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 15, ISSUE 2. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.

Passion for Nature Featuring “Oasi Zegna” Landscape

Chunky, bulky and textured—the cardigan is an undeniable hit this season, but getting to our final collection was no easy feat. At the markets, we checked out literally hundreds of options before curating it to a dozen or two of the greatest. Three of our favorites are shown here: a classic cashmere zip model with suede details from Ermenegildo Zegna, the ubiquitous wool alpine cardigan re-imagined by Gran Sasso, and the very hip and super warm faux-shearling-lined wool hoodie from Sand “Black Label.” The cardigan is the top must-have for fall!

Curating the new cardigan For fall, the options are endless.

Here are three of the best.

SEPTEMBER 14 AND 15 ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA MADE-TO-MEASURE John Marshall, Chief of Made-To-Measure for Ermenegildo Zegna North America, will be in store to introduce the latest collection of fabrics for fall. We will also offer an extensive collection of samples for suits, jackets, shirts and knitwear, plus an enhanced selection of the Z Zegna collection. Call or email your sales consultant to set your appointment.

SEPTEMBER 28 AND 29 SAMUELSOHN MADE-TO-MEASURE Dorian Anderson will be in store with the new fall swatches from Samuelsohn, plus New England Shirt Company, and w. kleinberg’s luxury leather accessory collection. Save 10% on your Samuelsohn made-to-measure order placed at this event.

MORE MEN’S AND WOMEN’S EVENTS TO BE ANNOUNCED Like us at facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland or subscribe to our email updates at kilgoretrout.com to always be among the first to hear about upcoming events, sales and promotions.

CONTACT US ANYTIME AT 216.831.0488, OR EMAIL YOUR SALES CONSULTANT DIRECTLY: Wally Joe Paula

wnaymon@kilgoretrout.com jaugustine@kilgoretrout.com pbradley@kilgoretrout.com

Andrea Joel Cheryl Laura

ajpnaymon@kilgoretrout.com jtstecker@kilgoretrout.com cmacmaster@kilgoretrout.com lmarotta@kilgoretrout.com

Kristin kbonecutter@kilgoretrout.com Meaghan mcarreras@kilgoretrout.com Sandy info@kilgoretrout.com

KILGORE TROUT INSIDERS

PRE-SEASON OFFER

$495 (BUT ONLY THROUGH OCT. 6)

This softly constructed ribbed wool jacket looks like a casual notch lapel sportcoat, wears like a comfortable sweater, and has the quality and tailoring found in our higher-priced models, including details like the leather under-collar. Last season, we carried a similar model from the same famous Italian mill at $850, but this season we were able to leverage our relationships for a one-time selection to retail at $595. As a special offer to our regular customers, we’ll take another $100 off: through October 6th or while our stock lasts, it’s $495.

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in store

UPCOMING EVENTS

ASKFORUM

FASHION TIPS FOR HIM

clothing. They can be dressed up with a tie or worn casually with jeans: comfort, class and cool, all in one item!

Q:

My expensive topcoat is looking dated. Should I have it altered?

This season’s pant styles are narrower than they used to be: not tight but definitely more fitted (and no longer down to the floor). For fall 2012, we love five-pocket pants in cottons, wools and wool blends.

When it comes to jeans, fit is all-important.

If your closet is full of droopy denim, let us show you how great you can look in jeans that actually fit.

Q:

If I buy only one item this season, what should it be?

We love refined soft sportcoats in wool blends and cashmeres (both solids and subtle patterns) as well as the quintessential knit blazer. These styles represent a new genre of sportcoat that blurs the boundary between sportswear and tailored

Q:

With global warming, do I really need sweaters?

Although chunky sweaters are very much in style, light and medium weights are also trending, and these have little to do with the weather. A modern or retro-inspired cardigan, either button or zip-front, can often replace a jacket or sportcoat. Today’s trimmed-down, fine gauge knits also work well underneath sportcoats since they breathe comfortably—good news for guys who tend to run hot.

Cashmeres, merinos and new blends in great colors mean lots of strong sweater options this season.

10

Q:

What footwear do I need for fall?

The wrong pair of shoes can instantly ruin an outfit, so don’t forget to consider your footwear as carefully as your clothes. One must-have for fall 2012 is a pair of slightly chunky oxfords in suede or burnished leather, to add a bit of character. Think updated wingtips that are substantial enough to wear with jeans and can also lend an English sensibility to a suit. In addition, there are tons of great boot options, from rugged contemporary styles to beautiful polished dress versions, that add instant personality to your look.

CANALI

Q:

I haven’t lost weight but my pants seem baggy.

What’s up with that?

Probably not. There’s only so much you can change with alterations, and yesterday’s long billowy coats (topcoats and trenches) are totally OUT in 2012. So give them away to someone in need and buy a new shorter, trimmer-fit overcoat or raincoat. From kneelength on up is the modern way to wear outerwear this season.

kilgore trout style

CONSTRUCTED RECONSTRUCTED putting together the best of fall 2012

Art/Creative by Christopher Hixson

Photography by Andrew McAllister

THE GRAY FLANNEL VESTED SUIT

Samuelsohn lightweight flannel suit with vest, Simonnot-Godard cotton pocket square, Eton contemporary fit cotton shirt, Robert Talbott Carmel knit tie.

UNEXPECTED TWISTS

Sand reverse-printed velvet “Red Carpet” blazer with satin lapel and buttons, Sand “XO” 100% cotton check shirt, Agave “Gringo” black denim.

COMFORT IN COLOR

Hiltl “Dolf” over-dyed cotton five-pocket corduroy with hidden “mobile-safe” pocket, in four autumn colors (blue not pictured).

LAYERING LAYERING LAYERING From our new Vince men’s collection: Quilted zip/ snap jacket in carbon over a soft cotton flannel, layered over a Pima cotton Henley. Five-pocket straight leg cord in putty.

SWEATERS PRETENDING TO BE JACKETS

Sweater-soft Boglioli jacket in block plaid, Giannetto Portofino washed cotton print shirt, Hiltl vintage washed cotton chino with interior contrast print.

HAPPY FEET

V.K. Nagrani’s men’s collection is as witty, wonderful, and well made as ever, with stripes, solids, checks and colors for every mood.

A BUTTERY SOFT HAND

Supple goat suede coat, “Pragmatist” brushed denim in chocolate, and “Home Run” streaky jersey, all Agave. Gianetto Portofino cotton plaid shirt.

CONFIDENT SOPHISTICATION

Cashmere and wool sportcoat, 100% wool trouser, silk 7-fold necktie, and 100% Italian cotton dress shirt, all Isaia. Kilgore Trout pocket square and pure cashmere sweater with suede elbows.

COLOR, TEXTURE AND PATTERN

Montedoro tweed cashmere jacket Etro “superleggera” 100% wool plaid windowpane sportcoat Robert Talbott Carmel wool plaid jacket in deep purple

TWEEDS, PLAIDS AND PRINTS

Etro double-breasted “New Jersey” trench made of ridiculously soft wool tweed, “superleggera” 100% wool plaid windowpane sportcoat (also at left), and paisley print cotton shirt.

A POP OF PLUM

Applied in moderation, it’s the color of the season.

Midnight blue peacoat with black stitched shoulders in 100% cotton, cotton flannel shirt and cotton jean in plum, all Rag & Bone.

BEATEN, BATTERED, WASHED AND WORN

PRPS has found 100 new ways to finish a pair of jeans. All Japanese piece goods, they’re distressed meticulously, and finished with elaborate detailing, all so you can “treat ‘em rough.”

ELABORATE ACCENTS

Georg Roth semi-sheer blouse with ribbon appliquĂŠ and texture details.

BOLD PRINTS

Fuzzi dress, crafted in Italy of soft viscose rayon.

COLOR COLOR COLOR

Rachel Zoe lightweight crepe dress in ivy red, Cambridge satchel in two-tone English leather, Dear Cashmere colorblocked sweater/scarf in 100% lambswool.

AND MORE COLOR “Amelia” jacket in molten rugged leather from Jakett New York.

EYECATCHING PATTERNS

Rag & Bone women’s peacock-inspired tapestry tuxedo jacket.

CHUNKY TEXTURE

Christopher Fischer cable cardigan of Italian spun yarns in elk with bone toggles.

INSIDE OUT OUTSIDE IN

Elizabeth and James militaryinspired canvas jacket with black leather sleeves and reversible quilted vest.

ELEGANCE RE-IMAGINED

Herno puffy down car coat with rabbit fur collar in platinum.

ASKFORUM

FALL FASHION TIPS FOR HER

Q: What are the must-have accessories this season?

The Cambridge Satchel is the perfect complement for many fall 2012 fashions. It’s available in every color, and you can wear it with your favorite chunky sweater or play up a plaid blazer.

When you accessorize, try color-blocking with a two-tone scarf, or wear a printed silk one to accent darker fall colors. A great chunky bracelet or stack of bracelets is always a great way to finish an outfit. And when it gets really cold, don’t get caught without your long cashmere texting gloves.

Q: How can I get more mileage out of my outerwear?

In Cleveland, where we never know what the weather will bring, the need for versatility is especially important. Luckily, this season brings many coat options that offer warmth but are still lightweight, sleek and feminine. Long, chunky sweaters are perfect for a mild autumn day, but when the winter winds blow, there’s nothing better than outerwear that makes a statement and keeps you warm. Come in to check out the attention-grabbing leathers from Jackett, or a piece with attitude from Italy’s Herno outerwear.

If you buy only one coat this season, make sure it’s a shaped, three-quarter length, mid-weight style that’s versatile enough in color and texture to layer with the rest of your clothing.

Q: How can I take my colored jeans from weekend to workday?

HUDSON

This year, colored jeans have been a hot item. (If you don’t own a pair, stop by to pick a few out!) If you’re anything like us, you’re wearing them with flats, a T-shirt and an unstructured jacket for a fun, casual look during the weekend.

In order to get more versatility from your colored jeans, like Hudson’s “Loulou” model pictured at left, dial it up a notch for the work week: pair the same great jeans with a blouse, a wedge bootie or colored pump, and add a structured blazer for a more buttoned-up look. Finish with a belt or statement necklace for one last dressy detail.

28

scene

ART UNFOLDS

New MOCA Cleveland debuts Inside Out and From the Ground Up.

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04(., *6<9;,:@ 46*( *3,=,3(5+

HE CLEVELAND AREA UPS THE ANTE on contemporary

architecture when the new Farshid Moussavidesigned Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) opens this fall in University Circle. Following on the heels of the internationally celebrated expansion of the Akron Art Museum and the ongoing $350 million renovation of the Cleveland Art Museum, MOCA will focus on new and commissioned works, giving contemporary art audiences access to diverse artistic processes in site-specific installations and performances.

“This is the first time that MOCA Cleveland will operate in a building specifically designed to present contemporary art,” says Executive Director Jill Snyder.

“We are shaping an institution that is more accessible, critical and open to dialogue.”

The inaugural exhibition, Inside Out and From the Ground Up, opens to the public October 8, 2012, and features major commissions by an international roster of 13 artists. mocacleveland.org

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designers

“I try not to use big factories.

Instead, I support the artisans: it’s product from their hearts and souls.”

AMONG THE QUIRKIEST MENSWEAR DESIGNERS OUT THERE, VIVEK NAGRANI KNOWS THAT DETAILS COUNT!

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

VERY VIVEK! He’s been in the menswear business for 14 years, starting with socks because “no one

was doing it right!

“Throughout history, fancy socks have been associated with the aristocracy because they’re expensive to make. Especially today, when men don’t have to conform, whimsical socks allow self-expression. The right socks indicate refinement, culture, confidence; they take your look from average to way above. Sinatra wore orange socks. Spanish matadors wear pink socks. (And what’s more manly than fighting a bull?)

Socks are probably the most expressive items we wear, so why settle for boring?”

His whimsical socks in the finest knits (produced in small, family-owned workshops in Italy and Peru) are not just top quality; they also give back to the community. Among the many events Nagrani has created over the years, most involve a charitable component.

For example, last year’s Big Brothers Big Sisters event featured socks designed by kids in need. “We sold 3,200 pairs in a single store, but it was more about the impact of this project on these kids, most of whom are so underprivileged it’s hard to describe. Suddenly there they are showing off their own designs on the

evening news! You cannot imagine their happiness, and what that did to their self-esteem…”

Nagrani also does special items, like custom socks for wedding parties and custom underwear (some with rather risqué sayings on the band). One year he did a pure vicuña sock packaged in a mahogany box for $895.

“We sold only 27 units, so not a huge success, but for me risk-taking is the only way to move forward.”

Nagrani’s newest division of socks and underwear is called Ugly Vix, a slightly lower-priced, retro-inspired collection aimed at younger guys. He describes it as “good taste gone bad.”

“Young guys don’t want to dress like their dads, but they might want to dress like their grandpas,” he maintains, showing off the shorter-length socks he’s personally wearing: not quite mid-calf length but designed to stay up, enough for today’s shorter pants.

When he’s not working or traveling to stores (he spends 150 days each year on the road), Nagrani loves to golf, cook, hang out with his beautiful wife and threeyear-old daughter (already a fashionista) and create, create, create! “I watch people shop and then figure out what I can do to enhance the product and/or the experience. If I can’t inspire, why am I in business?”

30

Always leave home with the right

(and never leave home FLUCTUATING TEMPS

Ermenegildo Zegna “Elements” wool all-weather coat. The elements membrane regulates temperature, keeping you comfortable and dry.

Plus, micronsphere stain-resistant protection, zip-off shearling collar, convenient mobile device pocket.

BLUSTERY WINDS

Moncler “Hector” technical jacket in nylon with new down, drawstring waist to keep the winds away from your body, removable vest liner, and a convenient zip-out hood always at the ready.

CHILLY EVENINGS

Allegri’s quilted suede jacket is an easy choice for a chilly evening out. It’s washable, too.

coat for Cleveland’s winter weather.

without your pants) RAIN GIVING WAY TO SNOW

Allegri rain cashmere jacket with zip-out vest. With the vest bib it’s outerwear, without it’s just a very cool soft cashmere blazer.

SUNNY AND FRIGID

Lone Pine wool and cashmere coat with handwarmer pockets, zip-out leather liner, leather cuff detail, zip and button closures.

WET, COLD AND SLOPPY

Gimo’s water-repellent cashmere toggle coat with leather trim, zip off hood and bone toggle closures.

fit

SLIMMING DOWN Shoulders: Narrower by about an inch, they are less padded and more natural than they once were.

Lapels: Narrow is more modern (but peak lapels are fashion forward, said to have “attitude”).

A TRIMMED-DOWN SUIT MEANS A TRIMMER-LOOKING YOU!

Chest: Less padded than it used to be, since it’s now made with lighter-weight canvases and interlinings.

Button Stance: Lower, with two buttons more fashionable than three.

Sleeves: Should hit at or slightly above the

wrist to show some shirt cuff (about a quarter to a half inch). Sleeves below the wrist are much too long!

THE EVOLUTION OF THE SUIT You might not have noticed much difference from one year to the next, but look back five years and the change in men’s suits is blatant! Gone are the broad padded shoulders and loose billowy trousers. No more wide lapels or padded chests. Today’s suits are neither tight nor restrictive, but they skim the body in a way that’s flattering to all physiques. A new slimmer suit can make you look your best.

Give it a try!

Jacket Length: At least an inch shorter than five years ago (now 30 inches long on a size 40 regular).

Trousers: Much slimmer than they were. Flat-fronts are

dominant over pleats, but both are acceptable as long as the pant is not too billowy. Most makers have shortened the thigh and the rise measurements by about an inch, the knee by a half inch.

Break: Modern trousers should have either no break

or a slight break that hits mid-shin. The hem should just cover the top of the shoelaces. If you’re tripping on your trouser bottoms, they are clearly dated!

Cuffs: Flat-front pants do not take cuffs; cuffs are optional but not necessary with pleated trousers.

34

PHOTOGRAPHY BY SERGIO KURHAJEC STYLING BY WENDY MCNETT HAIR & MAKEUP BY CLAIRE BAYLEY

Why choose

CUSTOM? The benefits of a timeless sartorial tradition.

Quite simply...

The best thing about custom is that it’s made just for you.

The modern suit as we know it was born in mid-19th century England. A style of men’s clothing evolved that interwove influences from the landed gentry, the military, surgeons, sports and the Industrial Revolution. Ever since, gentlemen the world over have sought to perfect it.

Individual style and comfort.

Unsurpassed fit.

Today, more and more men are choosing custom.

A custom suit is not only the ultimate expression of a man’s individual taste and style; it also allows superior comfort and, of course, fit.

Custom clothing has increasingly grown in popularity in recent years.

Our forebears would be envious of the fabric, model and detailing options available today!

CHANGE AS LITTLE AS YOU WANT...

If you’re a 40 Regular and you just want a slightly different colored fabric.

“Most men try custom for the vast choice of fabrics. Then they discover all the other wonderful subtleties.” menswear merchant Russ Mitchell

CHANGE AS MUCH AS YOU WANT... fabric

/ -$ 'Ĺż*+/$*).Ĺż$) '0 Ĺż2**'.Ĺż*!Ĺż varying weights and weaves, cashmeres, flannels, linens, cottons and highly technical new performance fibers. Add to that a dizzying array of patterns, pinstripes and color shades and you can create something that is truly your own.

Or, if youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re difficult to fit and want a flannel double-breasted suit with aubergine lining, patch pockets, horn buttons and two pairs of pants. model

Jacket length, pant cut, button stance, lapel width, vents, pleats, pocket style, cuffs... these are some of the many style features you can customize.

Some of the design decisions you will " /Ĺż/*Ĺż( & Ĺż ) Ĺż )%*4Ĺż - Ä&#x2018;

PANT

Ä&#x2022;ſſ ' / Ĺż*-ſôſ /ÄŚ!-*)/Ä&#x161;Ĺż Ä&#x2022;ſſ 0ïſſ*-Ĺż)*Ĺż 0ĂŻĹżÄ&#x161; Ä&#x2022;ſſ )"/#Ä&#x2018;Ĺż # - Ĺż/*Ĺż - &Ä&#x161; Ä&#x2022;ſſ "Ĺż*+ )$)"Ä&#x2018;Ĺż *2Ĺż.'$(Ĺż*-Ĺż2$ Ä&#x161;

lining

From solid to paisley and subtle to wacky, a custom lining gives you the opportunity to add a splash of color or a surprise that can be your own little secret.

Undeniably, the greatest draw of custom is the extraordinary variety of choices available in fabric. While stores can only buy and hang a limited amount of ready-to-wear options, the fabric selection in custom is in the thousands!

buttons

JACKET

Ä&#x2022;ſſ * 'Ä&#x2018;Ĺż - $/$*) 'Ĺż*-Ĺż Ĺż new slimmer silhouette? Ä&#x2022;ſſ $)"' ÄŚ - ./ Ĺż1.Ä?Ĺż *0 ' ÄŚ breasted Ä&#x2022;ſſ 0//*)Ĺż./ ) Ä&#x2018;ſýſ*-ſÞÄ&#x161;Ĺż *2Ĺż#$"#Ä&#x161; Ä&#x2022;ſſ + '.Ä&#x2018;Ĺż *2Ĺż2$ Ä&#x161;Ĺż */ # Ä&#x161; Ä&#x2022;ſſ * & /Ĺż./4' Ä&#x2022;ſſ )/Ĺż./4' Ä&#x2022;ſſ & /Ĺż' )"/# Ä&#x2022;ſſ ' 1 Ä&#x2018;Ĺż )"/#Ä&#x161;Ĺż *-&$)"Ĺż 0//*).Ä&#x161;

Down the front or at your wrists?

Two or three, gold or silver, blue or bone? Buttons are another fun way to make a suit uniquely yours.

CUSTOM 101: THE SHIRT fabric

Contrary to what you may have heard, custom is not just for dress shirts. A couple of custom sport shirts are fabulous go-to pieces for your casual wardrobe as well.

Dressy or casual, the variety of colors and patterns can be a bit overwhelming, but you can create stunning signature looks that could never be achieved off-the.# '!ďſ ' 4ſ2$/#ſ/# ſ / $'.ďſ 1 ſ some fun!

Our most popular custom item is the custom shirt. Try one and see why so many say that “once you go custom, you never go back.” collar

Whether you prefer straight, spread, curve point, cutaway, band collar or any other style, you’ll be amazed how something as simple as a change in collar can customize your look.

.

common MYTHS about custom: Custom is only for the difficult to fit.

While custom tailoring ensures men of every body type the best possible fit, custom is every bit as sought-after by men who can readily wear off-the-rack clothing. They choose it for the signature look they can create as well as for the extensive fabric selection.

Custom takes forever.

cuffs

Aside from the classic straight twobutton cuff, there are many cuff options to choose from to give your shirt that certain je ne sais quoi, including the one-button round cuff,

pockets

' $)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż 0//*)Ĺż+* & /Ä?Ĺż Square pocket. Or no pocket. Do you like the front smooth or do you prefer a place for your glasses?

buttons

An unexpected button color, material or design is another great detail to work (or play) with.

monogram

the one-button angle cuff and of course, the French cuff... which also comes in several variations!

A monogram is the ultimate way to make a shirt uniquely yours.

Simple yet elegant, pick a style that ranges from the traditional to the very modern. And choose from many placement options, too!

*/Ĺż /Ĺż ''Ä?Ĺż ) Ĺż )Ĺż 3+ -$ ) tailor has taken and recorded all of your measurements, they are stored just for you. You simply pick out your details and your suit should be ready $)ſýſ/*ĹżÄ Ĺż2 &.Ä?

Custom is costprohibitive. With the

rising popularity of custom clothing, designers are stocking larger libraries of fabric and details and are equipped with several made-to-measure models as starting points. This has brought down costs. You no longer have to be a CEO (or royalty) to wear it!

By William Kissel

The Merits of

MADE TO MEAS

__________________________________________

Any man who’s bought an off-the-rack suit in the past half century probably thinks that what you see on the sales floor is what you get. If the fit, fabric or color you want isn’t in stock, you’re out of luck.

Not so fast.

Thanks to the rapidly growing concept of made to measure, top fashion brands like Zegna, Isaia, Samuelsohn, Canali, Kiton and Brioni have slowly transformed the once-bland process of buying a business suit (or sportcoat) into a very personal expression of a man’s good taste and sense of style. Want a broken pinstripe on a medium-blue super 150s wool, or a windowpane check in a soft brown cashmere/silk blend?

Consider it done. Looking for that hard-to-find trimcut, double-breasted jacket and want to customize it with a lining in your wife’s favorite shade of lavender?

It’s yours simply for the asking.

Just a few decades ago, the only way to have a suit made your way was to visit a custom tailor, a process that required you to dig deep into your wallet, be patient enough to sit through multiple fittings, and then wait the required six month production time. But after Ermenegildo Zegna became inspired by a concept the Japanese had developed in the early 1970s, he and other luxury suit makers found a way to speed up the process and drastically lower the cost.

Made to measure also allows stores to offer much more product than what fits on the sales floor. “When my father first started selling Zegna in Japan, he was quite surprised to see the small amount of real estate they had for retail,” explains Gildo Zegna, group chief executive at the family-owned Ermenegildo Zegna brand. “Back then our collection was very big, and he

FASTER THAN YOU’D THINK...

Because made to measure cuts out the practice of creating a separate pattern for every customer from scratch, suits are produced from a pre-existing pattern that is later altered at the factory to meet your own physical requirements.

__________________________________________ 40

URE

__________________________________________

thought to himself, ‘How can I show it all?’ He found the Japanese had a clever system where they would show all the fabric swatches, like in a showroom, and let the customer pick the pattern and style. Within a few weeks the jacket was made to order for him. My father thought, ‘If the Japanese can make this work, why can’t we?’”

A hybrid form of custom suit making, made to measure cuts out the more costly practice of creating a separate pattern for every customer from scratch (as a bespoke tailor would do).

Made-to-measure suits are produced from a pre-existing pattern that is later altered at the factory to meet your own physical requirements. “The difference in quality between custom and made to measure is maybe none,” offers one luxury suit maker. “The only difference is how you get through the process.” In the case of made to measure, you simply try on a jacket at the store that’s close to your size and style preference, and the suit maker adjusts the pattern for a more precise fit.

Along the way you choose the fabric (from literally thousands of choices beyond those offered ready-made at the store) as well as the details— from working or non-working button holes, center or side vents, and the number of pleats (or no pleats) on your trousers, to the number, size and shape of the pockets and even the color of the

interior lining. Need an extra interior pocket to house your cigarettes or cell phone? You’ve got it.

Want mother of pearl or titanium buttons? They’re yours. Then, a mere four to six weeks later, you have a suit that fits both your budget (only about 20 percent more than off-the-rack pricing, depending on the fabric) and your personal sense of style.

In the past, only hard-to-fit men—those with sloping shoulders, curved backs, protruding abdomens or extremely large or small bodies— took advantage of these suit making services.

Today it’s all about choice. “Superior fit is certainly a big factor. But I’d say the larger factor is men wanting to be different and own something unique,” explains Arnold Silverstone, creative director at Samuelsohn. “It’s a particularly great service for guys who are super fit and require more than the standard 6-inch drop found on offthe-rack clothing,” he says. “A guy might be a 42 Regular on top but waist-wise he’s a 32, which is a 10-inch drop. You won’t find that combination off the rack.”

There’s one more reason for choosing made to measure: “Clothes are very expensive and most men who spend $1,000 or more on a suit want it to last from five to seven years,” explains one suit maker. “If a guy is going to live with it that long, it better have all the details he loves. And the best way to ensure that is to create it himself.”

__________________________________________ 41

On Him: Jacket by Hugo Boss, shirt by Ermenegildo Zegna, pants by AG and pocket square

by Dion.

On Her: Jacket, top, pant and handbag by Brunello Cucinelli.

Days are getting shorter. Waves rougher. And that increasing nip in the air! As summer sun gives way to autumn leaves, here are some ways to adapt... with style.

A CHANGE OF

SEASONS

PHOTOGRAPHY HAIR & MAKEUP STYLING

SERGIO KURHAJEC CLAIRE BAYLEY WENDY MCNETT

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Texture.

Drawn from nature

itself, fallâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fibers are a bit wild and roughly hewn: thick knits, coarse wools and cottons, heavy twills...

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Layers.

Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no more

stylish or practical way to stay warm than with a few versatile layering pieces. Pile on or peel off as needed!

A CHANGE OF

SEA SONS

Warmth!

Chunky cables, soft suedes and cashmeres, luxurious leathers, fur trim. And donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t forget a cozy scarf or two...

world scene

DISCOVERING PERU

N

ear the Andes Mountains and Cuzco, the site of the Inca Empire’s capital, Peru is probably on your destination wish list. For travelers who, after spending their days exploring this intriguing region, want to relax in sumptuous surroundings, there’s Palacio Nazarenas. Orient-Express, in collaboration with Peru’s National Institute of Culture, has restored this former 16th-century convent, carefully preserving the property’s heritage while elevating the accommodations to luxury standards. Located in an exclusive enclave in downtown Cuzco, Palacio Nazarenas has personal butlers, and Chef Virgilio Martinez presents specialty dishes featuring indigenous herbs and decorated with edible flowers. For the adventurous guest who needs to unwind after a day of sightseeing or climbing the Andes, there’s the Hypnôze Spa, which uses Peruvian ingredients such as pink Andean salt, flowers and herbs in tailormade body treatments.

Experience life’s little luxuries. By Donald Charles Richardson

AFTER HOURS

A

MATTHEW BUCKLEY

s a child, Gary R. Sullivan began collecting antiques, particularly clocks.

Today, Sullivan’s an expert on the subject: he’s seen regularly on Antiques Roadshow, lectures on early American clocks, and contributes often to books and scholarly research. Clock aficionados can drop into his shop in Sharon, Massachusetts and discover an impressive collection of American antique furniture from the Queen Anne through Classical periods, and many remarkable clocks. There’s one with a rocking ship movement, another boasting fruit and fern detail. Sullivan’s crowning clock is perhaps the mahogany Wood & Taylor star inlaid case clock, which stands at over eight feet tall. This flamboyantly decorated clock has a patriotic star motif and exotic contrasting mirror inlays. A nice way to watch time pass.

50

EPSTEIN DESIGN PARTNERS, INC.

FANCY FOOD FROM THE FOREST

I

n New York’s Hudson River Valley, Crown Maple Farms sits on 800 acres of rich soil where 25,000 century-old sugar and red maples flourish, producing a superior sap for maple sugaring. The farm’s “syrup sommelier” oversees separation of the syrups, and this autumn (in time for National Maple Syrup Day on December 17) the Grade A Dark Amber has such a rich flavor it’s risen to the dizzying heights of haute gourmet. Many of the top chefs in the country, including six of the seven 3-star Michelin restaurants in New York City, have chosen Dark Amber as a marinade or culinary ingredient, even using it to make ice cream. Of course, you don’t have to be a great cook—Crown Maple Farms’ syrups drizzle perfectly over pancakes, too.

CUSTOM CRUISING

F

rom November 15, 2012 through February 27, 2013, Amanresorts will launch a series of extraordinary five- and seven-night voyages through the Indonesian Archipelago of Raja Ampat, one of the world’s most exceptional marine areas, on their custom-built, 105-foot Amanikan coastal cruiser. Scuba divers can view over 1,300 species of fish, 603 species of hard coral, 57 species of mantis shrimp and 15 mammal species. The islands are home to rare orchids, sea eagles, tree kangaroos and birds of paradise. The very chic Amanikan offers just three luxury cabins with king-sized beds and ensuite bathrooms (suitable for three couples or a single family) and the crew of 10 includes a dive instructor and private chef.

FORECAST

Wingtips and boots, with a good chance of snow.

F

OUR MEN’S SHOE DEPARTMENT OFFERS: ALLEN EDMONDS DONALD J. PLINER GRAVATI JOHN VARVATOS MAGNANNI QUODDY RED WING SALVATORE FERRAGAMO SWIMS WALK-OVER WOLVERINE AND MORE

or fall, almost every men’s footwear maker is showing wingtips—in a variety of of forms from very dressy to very casual. Wingtip ankle boots and wingtip dress boots are on every designer’s table.

Most interesting is that the young and hip consumer is buying made in USA in very classic styles—wingtips, cap toes, saddle shoes—and pairing them with denim and sportcoats for work or casual attire. The classic Goodyear-welt companies like Allen Edmonds, Wolverine, Walk-Over and Red Wing are teaching a new generation about the comfort advantages of this classic construction.

The color palette is varied from rich grays, suede browns, and blacks, to blues and even shades of red, green and blue on the uppers and soles, with laces providing contrast: a fun counterpoint to normally mundane footwear.

Materials range from classic polished calf skins to burnished calf, tumbled calf, suedes and buckskins, rich fatty chromexcel, shell cordovan, or washed calfskin, as well as waterproof materials in boots.

Our newest footwear resource, Swims, has great looking ankle boots with cushy white and orange soles and dark rich waterproof uppers.

Magnanni will have a beautiful new double-monk in hand burnished calf, a butter-soft tumbled calf side-zip boot, and a suede wingtip. The brand also continues with classic dress pennies and moccasins with both leather and rubber soles.

Walk-Over (the oldest shoe company in America) has a new wingtip boot, wing derby and multicolored mid-sole on classic designs made in the USA.

John Varvatos continues his fascination with ankle boots, laceless oxfords and washed and burnished leathers—all to complement to his sportswear collections.

Ferragamo has classic bit shoes and mocs in calf and suede as well as all-rubber boots, perfect for the winters that Clevelanders have come to know and love.

Allen Edmonds is doing a range of wingtips in blue, olive, brown and red calf as well as snuff and tan suede. Vintage wings and cap toes in burnished calf skins, too.

Donald Pliner’s dressy shoes pair classic uppers with red or blue soles, and he also offers drivers in washed suedes.

footwear

FOOTWEAR

food

YOU DON’T HAVE TO EAT OUT TO EAT SUSHI.

BY ERIC BUTTERMAN

f you’re looking for something light to eat, few things satisfy like sushi. With properties that promote better memory and overall well-being, it’s long been one of the staples of the East. But over the last two decades, Americans have increasingly wanted to make it for themselves. The good news is, it’s not as hard as you may think—but it will require patience.

Wing Lam, owner and head chef of Zen Sushi, says making sushi rolls at home comes down to two things: practice and creativity. “It’s like anything: keep at it and [the finished product] will continue to get better,” he says, “…as long as you buy good rice!” Beyond that essential ingredient is seaweed, which forms the outside of the wrap, and then whatever you choose to put inside. It’s best to use rice that’s short and thin, mixed with vinegar, salt and sugar. To save time, Lam suggests buying the pre-made rice mix at your local Asian market (or order online at asianfoodgrocer.com).

Now for the seaweed. Ever wonder how chefs are able to wrap it so perfectly around the rice? Using a bamboo mat is their clever secret. Decide how thick you prefer your sushi rolls to be and choose your mat accordingly: the thicker the individual bamboo sticks that make up the mat, the thicker the roll will be. Cut one-half to two-thirds of a sheet of your purchased seaweed, place it in the center of the bamboo mat, and cover all except the outer edges of the seaweed with rice.

Now comes the creativity. You can put anything inside a

sushi roll. However, there are certain standbys to consider.

The California roll is among the most popular, containing crabmeat, cucumber, avocado and carrot. The Philadelphia roll highlights salmon and cream cheese, sometimes along with avocado or cucumber. Or make up your own! Once you’ve decided, make sure to distribute the ingredients evenly over the width of the seaweed; otherwise, when you cut the roll, some pieces may not contain any filling. Then lift the edge of the bamboo mat and begin to push it forward, rolling the contents within. Slowly open the mat and slice your finished roll into individual sushi pieces.

Even once you’ve created your roll, the product still isn’t finished. You’ll notice many sushi establishments don’t just throw them on the plate; style is almost as much a part of sushi as substance. Try artfully drizzling your chosen sauce over the plate in an eye-catching design, or lining up individual sushi pieces to form a pattern. In addition, consider the serving plates you use: smaller ones tend to accentuate the sushi’s own beauty.

You can even perfect your at-home sushi experience right down to the music. Choose soft melodies to enhance the already relaxing atmosphere which goes along with eating a light and healthful meal.

“Making sushi takes skill, but don’t be afraid to try different things,” Lam emphasizes. “Some of the best flavor combinations come from experimentation.”

54

ULTRAPRO

STYLE IS AS MUCH A PART OF SUSHI AS SUBSTANCE.

man of style

“My style model is Fred Astaire,” Feinstein reveals.

HIGH NOTES n the front hall of Michael Feinstein’s New York townhouse hangs an extraordinary 9x11-foot tapestry, covered with Al Hirschfeld caricatures of theater legends. I had just spotted Streisand when a black and white cat I later learned was named Alexander interrupted me. He brushed against my leg, looked me over, and after a thoughtful gaze disappeared upstairs.

A few moments later Feinstein came down the stairs (had Alexander given his approval?) wearing jeans, dress shirt and blazer, and led me into the living room.

Art is everywhere: oil paintings, antiques, a Picasso vase on a pedestal. There’s a grand piano, comfortable furniture, and views of an attractive garden through bay windows. The 25-room house, actually two townhouses knocked together, boasts a gym, two kitchens, two guest rooms, a master suite and nine fireplaces.

Born in Columbus, Ohio, Feinstein moved to Los Angeles in the ’70s. Oscar Levant’s widow introduced

him to Ira Gershwin, with whom he worked for several years. Michael met a lot of famous people, became a close friend of Gershwin’s next-door neighbor, Rosemary Clooney, and played for Frank Sinatra, who became a significant link to the music he loved. When Feinstein opened at the Mondrian Hotel in Los Angeles in 1986, Liza Minnelli gave him a party that most of Hollywood royalty attended: Gregory Peck, Elizabeth Taylor, Joan Collins and Henry Mancini, among others. “The publicity from that party launched me professionally,” Feinstein confides.

The consummate singer of American classics, Feinstein’s soft romantic voice slips effortlessly around a melody with the insouciance of a Cole Porter lyric, projecting every nuance. He’s performed at the White House, Carnegie Hall, the Hollywood Bowl and Buckingham Palace. He’s been nominated for five Grammys, and is a music historian and archivist (the Library of Congress appointed him to its National

56

RANDEE ST. NICHOLAS

MICHAEL FEINSTEIN BRIDGES THE GAP BETWEEN PAST AND PRESENT.

Recording Preservation Board). He’s also artistic director of The Center for the Performing Arts in Carmel, Indiana and owns a cabaret in New York.

On stage, Feinstein conjures up an oft-nostalgic aura of glamour and elegance, evoking memories of chic late-night supper clubs from a more stylish era.

But far from buried in the past, he’s a contemporary performer who integrates fresh insight and modern imagery into his shows. His wardrobe helps bridge the gap between past and present.

For performances, Feinstein wears a tuxedo; at first he wore the same style every night, but soon added variety. “I realized that my songs are traditional, so I decided to use clothing to update my image on stage.

A more modern style actually helps modernize the whole show.” He added tuxedos from designers Nolan Miller and Jil Sander to his repertoire, and had others custom made by famed Los Angeles tailor Cipriano.

Feinstein is always searching for dress suits with “a little pop, but not Liberace.” His single must-have is a design tip he picked up from Victor Borge: a reversed flap on the fly. That way, Feinstein explains, the audience won’t notice if he slides onto a piano bench with his fly unzipped. (Twice.)

“For everyday life, I usually wear a blazer and loose tie.

When I go out, I’m often recognized, so I want to look nice.” On formal occasions, he chooses from among the

hundred suits he owns from Tom Ford, Gucci, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, D-Squared, Armani and Halston.

Feinstein’s diverse interests call for an extensive wardrobe. These days, along with 200 performances a year, he’s also in the wine business, currently creating Michael Feinstein Select, a cabernet from Iron Horse Vineyards. Other recent ventures: The Sinatra Project 2, a collection of classic songs in the Sinatra style that the Chairman of the Board never recorded; the third season of Michael Feinstein’s American Songbook on PBS; 13 hour-long radio shows on NPR; and a movie score for an as yet untitled Steven Spielberg project.

His new book, The Gershwin in Me, will be released this October. Each of the 12 chapters spotlights a single song, exploring when and why it was written. The book comes with a CD of the songs newly recorded by Feinstein and 12 reproductions of Gershwin-related ephemera. And, as usual, during the holiday season, he’ll be performing at Feinstein’s at the Loews Regency Hotel in New York.

When it’s time to go, we continue talking as Michael walks me to the front door. “Sometimes,” he says, “When I think about my career, I realize how lucky I am… But it’s really the music that’s important.” His goal is simple: “I want to keep American music alive.”

Alexander reappears to see me out.

ZACH DOBSON

A MORE MODERN STYLE HELPS MODERNIZE THE WHOLE SHOW.

designers

Sebastian Dollinger

I went from the stockroom to a London-based position to a sales job, where I increased volume in my Swedish accounts by 800 percent. At that point, I felt vindicated and was excited to move to a design job.”

Explaining the success of Eton, Dollinger sums it up simply: “We don’t take shortcuts; we spend on quality. We use the best French and Italian mills for our fabrics. We’ve developed a special finishing process that takes fourand-a-half weeks extra but adds luster and life to the shirts.”

Other success secrets: a sophisticated use of color, pattern and detailing so the shirts are interesting but not over-the-top. “Balance is important,” says Dollinger, who also paints.

“There’s a way to combine elements so it’s not screaming or in your face.”

Finally, there’s the fit factor: Eton shirts come in three different fits so that they feel custom-made. “Eton isn’t just another global brand with extensive marketing; it’s quality in every way. Plus we’re one of very few companies to specialize in shirts.”

When he’s not designing, Dollinger is out and about. “My body clock is reversed: I work late and come alive even later. I never watch TV; I’m out doing things. In addition to music (these days he’s listening to Joy Division, Demolition, The Black Keys, Muddy Waters) and design, I love writing (poetry, song lyrics), and also cosmology. I was always that strange little boy who studied the stars every night…”

ETON’S DESIGNER BRINGS A FRESH YOUNG TAKE TO LUXURY SHIRTINGS.

BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

SEBASTIAN-STYLE ith DeVotchKa blasting in the background, it was hard to hear Sebastian Dollinger, conducting this interview from the studio in Sweden where he designs the world-renowned Eton shirt collection.

“Yes, I design to music; it’s a big part of my life,” he confides. “I’m a DJ and a drummer when I’m not designing shirts…”

He came to designing Eton shirts in a roundabout way: since his father, Jan Borghardt, has worked for the company since 1981, it was the last thing he’d planned to do. “My dad is from Holland; he met my mom on a sailing trip to Sweden, fell in love and needed a job. He started in the Eton stockroom and is now number two at the company. I was born in ’83. I was a wild kid who got kicked out of school and took various jobs pumping gas and waiting tables. But when I ultimately took a stockroom job, I made sure it was the cleanest stockroom in the universe. My dad taught me to take pride in my work, whatever it is…”

After serving in the army for a year, Dollinger reluctantly took a job in the Eton stockroom, then gradually worked his way up. “I took the long road at Eton, determined to prove myself without favoritism. (Editor’s note: Since his dad has a different last name, few people were aware of the relationship.)

58

“Don’t wear one brand from head to toe. Be your own brand: it’s more fun that way!” says Dollinger.

CREATING GREAT TROUSERS AND JEANS. IT’S AN ART.

icons

50 YEARS AFTER HER DEATH, SHE'S STILL TURNING HEADS.

BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON Lawrence Schiller. The other blonde bombshells of the 1950s—Jayne Mansfield, Mamie Van Doren, Sheree North and so on—haven’t enjoyed the same posthumous career.

“When you look at photographs of her, she has this ability to express herself in so many ways,” says Donna Holder, co-founder of Marilyn Wines. “I don’t think she’s this dumb blonde at all.

She was just kind of a straightforward person. A beautiful person.”

Why this hold on us in 2012? Contemporaries speak of an emotionally fragile, but highly canny, comic actress. In outtakes from the Laurence Olivier film The Prince and the Showgirl (the setting for My Week With Marilyn), we see an actress repeatedly missing her lines and cues, frustrating the prim Olivier. Yet we also see her vulnerability, beauty and overwhelming desire to be appreciated. When she finally gets a scene right, she nails it.

While watching these clips I finally understood the Marilyn Magic, and developed a new classic screen crush. You ache to protect her as much as to kiss her.

Norma Jeane Mortenson Baker, that spunky kid from L.A., continues to attract new generations of fans. On Facebook, a quote attributed to Ella Fitzgerald has been making the rounds, in which the African-American jazz singer credits Monroe with expanding Fitzgerald’s fan base into the mainstream. Monroe’s own Facebook fan page boasts 3.2 million fans, over half of which are younger than 25. I recently joined Pinterest, a bulletin board-style website used for organizing all the web stuff you want others to see. One of my “followers” on the site, a young woman of maybe 25, had two boards (categories) I noticed immediately: “Old Hollywood” and “Movies I Love.” Guess whose platinum-haired visage graced both?

THE MARILYN

My first on-screen crush was Natalie Wood in Rebel Without a Cause. I was 16. Wood’s soulful eyes and short-sleeved angora sweaters were magical, though the film was already 30 years old. Marilyn Monroe, on the other hand, wasn’t on my radar. There was the Elton John song, and every cartoon I grew up with did a riff parodying the flying white skirt scene in The Seven Year Itch. I knew she’d been in Playboy, and that was kind of hot. But I was more interested in the current crop of celebrities undressing in my dad’s magazines: Victoria Principal, Barbi Benton, Kim Basinger.

Monroe has outlasted and outshined them all, despite having died 50 years ago in August. Last year witnessed My Week With Marilyn (starring Michelle Williams as Monroe), artist Seward Johnson’s 26-foot-tall cartoony homage, Forever Marilyn, in Chicago (relocated to Palm Springs in May), and a special bottling of the very popular Marilyn Merlot wine, celebrating its own 25th Anniversary. The NBC show Smash chronicles the lives of theater actors, writers and producers as they work to bring a Marilyn-themed musical to Broadway. Monroe’s image also graced this year’s poster for the 65th anniversary of the Cannes Film Festival and the cover of Vanity Fair, promoting the release of previously unpublished nudes by photographer

60

GETTY 1 MICHAEL OCHS ARCHIVES

MYSTIQUE

CHRISTIE’S

GOODING & CO.

collections

Pablo Picasso’s Nude, Green Leaves and Bust sold in 2010 for $106,482,500.

A 1957 Ferrari 250 Testa Rossa Prototype sold in 2011 for $16,400,000.

The Elizabeth Taylor Diamond sold in 2011 for $8,818,500.

IT’S AMAZING WHAT MONEY CAN BUY…

CHRISTIE’S

AUCTION AWE SCP AUCTIONS

BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE

A rare $1 coin from 1804 sold in 2008 for $3,737,500.

Detective Comics #27 (DC, 1939) sold in 2010 for $1,075,500.

HERITAGE AUCTIONS

CHRISTIE’S

Abraham Lincoln’s 1864 Victory Speech sold in 2009 for $3,442,500.

Eric Clapton’s Fender Stratocaster guitar, “Blackie,” sold in 2004 for $959,500.

CHRISTIE’S

HERITAGE AUCTIONS

Babe Ruth’s 1920s New York Yankees jersey sold in 2012 for $4,400,000.

62

CAN A MANʼS TROUSER OR JEAN, A NECESSARY BASIC ITEM OF CLOTHING, BE TRANSFORMED INTO A “MUST HAVE?” ̶HILTL THINKS SO

T H E U LT I M AT E T R O U S E R . . .

AND JEANS

WHY TOO MUCH IS TOO MUCH.

BY HANS GSCHLIESSER

“RESEARCH REVEALS THAT PEOPLE SCORE HIGHER ON THE HAPPINESS INDEX IF THEY LIMIT THEIR CHOICES.”

TOWN OR COUNTRY? A look from Thom Browne’s fall/winter 2012 collection

64

GETTY

end page

ENOUGH ALREADY!

On a recent shopping excursion, I came to the conclusion that too much of a good thing is not necessarily good. Like most people, I don’t enjoy being overwhelmed by an avalanche of irrelevant and dizzying options. Who wants to spend hour upon hour searching for something presentable to wear?

You know what I mean. In everyday life, despite the myriad cable channels, YouTube videos, Twitter feeds and social media posts, there’s little that actually holds my attention. This goes for the overabundance of fashion messages as well. Looking at hundreds, if not thousands, of posted images from fall 2012 menswear shows in Milan, Paris and New York, I’m tempted to buy nothing at all. The reality is, I’m not inclined to look like a deranged escapee from a Thom Browne fashion show, nor am I ready to wear a skirt. All I really want are some nice-looking, appropriate, slightly slimmer-cut suits and sportcoats to make me look somewhat in the know.

As it turns out, it’s not just me: Experts confirm that drowning in decisions is a symptom of society’s current excesses. This is well documented in psychologist Barry Schwartz’s insightful book, The Paradox of Choice: Why More is Less. “As the number of options increases, the effort required to make a good decision escalates as well, which is one of the reasons that choice can be transformed from a blessing into a burden,” Schwartz maintains. “It’s also one of the reasons we don’t always manage the decision-making task effectively.”

Once you realize that too many choices are unhealthy, it’s a welcome relief to find a store that offers a well-curated assortment of great clothes you actually want to wear. This removes unnecessary stress from the decision-making process and purportedly raises one’s happiness index. (And who doesn’t want to be happier?)

So for those with a penchant for Armani, Zegna, Canali, Hugo Boss and Ralph Lauren, check out your local independent menswear store for a well-edited mix of beautiful clothing. You’ll take comfort in a simplified shopping experience, great service and an easy-to-understand presentation of the best of the best.

“Can one desire too much of a good thing?” ponders William Shakespeare in As You Like It. And the answer is, emphatically, yes!

Take a test drive and receive a free necktie from Kilgore Trout.*

Airport U Beachwood U Middleburg Heights U North Olmsted

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An Aston Martin shakes up the status quo while stirring the soul of those who drive one. Why not make that someone you?

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^^^ JVSSLJ[PVUH\[VNYV\W JVT * Present this original ad, take a qualifying test drive and receive a complimentary Kilgore Trout necktie. Valid while supplies last. One per customer. Non-transferable. At test drive, customer will receive certificate redeemable for a necktie with retail value $95.

K I L G O R E T RO U T F O RU M FA L L 2 0 1 2