unhurried and uncommon since 1977
HOW TO DRESS NOW
SPOTLIGHT ON
SAMUELSOHN SPECIAL GOLF SECTION
FEATURING BRANDT SNEDEKER AND DAVID FEHERTY
28601 Eton Chagrin Boulevard Cleveland, OH 44122 216-831-0488 kilgoretrout.com facebook.com/kilgoretroutcleveland EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman DESIGN DIRECTOR
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian LaRochelle CLEVELAND EDITOR
Christopher Hixson PROJECT MANAGER
Lisa Montemorra DESIGNER
Jean-Nicole Venditti CONCEPT DIRECTORS
Andrew Mitchell, Russ Mitchell MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR
Bob Mitchell DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
Peg Eadie
FEATURES 36 Profile: Kilgore Trout Founders Scholarship Winner Juliana Shinn 38 Profile: Samuelsohn 52 Profile: Boglioli
DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
John Frascone
BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stuart Nifoussi PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
FASHION 9 Looks Like Spring 17 Men’s Must-Haves 44 Dressing for a Good Time
DEPARTMENTS 6 8 40 42 43 62 64
Welcome Letter In Store Events The Fashion Forum Ask Forum for Him Ask Forum for Her Designers: Work It At Your Service
Mac Brighton CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER
Christine Sullivan
APPAREL FORUM Andrisen Morton DENVER, CO Garys NEWPORT BEACH, CA Hubert White MINNEAPOLIS, MN Kilgore Trout CLEVELAND, OH Larrimor’s PITTSBURGH, PA Malouf’s LUBBOCK/SOUTHLAKE, TX Marios PORTLAND, OR / SEATTLE, WA Mitchells WESTPORT, CT / HUNTINGTON, NY Mitchells/Richards GREENWICH, CT Oak Hall MEMPHIS, TN Rodes LOUISVILLE, KY Rubensteins NEW ORLEANS, LA Stanley Korshak DALLAS, TX Wilkes Bashford SAN FRAN/PALO ALTO, CA
SPECIAL SECTION:
GOLF
54 Players: Brandt Snedeker 56 History: Style Evolution 60 Interview: David Feherty
FASHION FORUM MAGAZINE IS PUBLISHED IN 11 REGIONAL EDITIONS FOR MEMBER STORES OF THE APPAREL FORUM © 2016. PUBLISHED BY BUSINESS JOURNALS, INC, P.O. BOX 5550, NORWALK, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • FAX: 203-852-8175; ADVERTISING OFFICE: 1384 BROADWAY, NY, NY 10018-6108, 212-686-4412 • FAX: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. THE PUBLISHERS ACCEPT NO RESPONSIBILITIES FOR ADVERTISERS CLAIMS, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS OR OTHER MATERIALS. NO PART OF THIS MAGAZINE MAY BE REPRODUCED WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHERS. VOLUME 19, ISSUE 1. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
S S 16 . B E A N E W G E N T L E M A N .
LORO PIANA “EXTREME” PERFORMANCE FABRIC
welcome
FROM “THE MISTAKE BY THE LAKE” TO HOSTING THE 2016 REPUBLICAN CONVENTION,
WE’VE COME A LONG WAY, BABY. BY WALLY NAYMON, SHOPKEEPER
I
n 1977 when we opened Kilgore Trout, we chose a location about as far from downtown Cleveland as one could get: Eton Square, the region’s new luxury mall in the heart of the suburbs. At the time, no one in their right mind would have chosen to be downtown. Venerable retailers were closing left and right, Johnny Carson had already bestowed on our city that infamous moniker “The Mistake by the Lake,” and the city had lost almost a quarter of its population. As we navigated our first year of business, we watched Dennis Kucinich be elected the youngest mayor of a major American city. The proposed sale of Muny Light became the headline, a mob hit was placed on our Boy Mayor, and ours became the first city since the Depression to default on its debt. Was there ever a bleaker time in Cleveland’s history? But quietly, the seeds of a renaissance were being planted. Community activists were already saving the theaters of Playhouse Square, and cultural organizations and foundations were diggin in their heels and recommitting to the urban core. Musicians and promoters spawned a legendary rock ’n’ roll and punk scene, and forward-looking corporate leaders began working to rebuild our city. This summer when the RNC comes to town, we finally have the opportunity to share with the country and the world the results of this 40-year urban renaissance. Delegates, media and TV viewers will discover what we’ve long known: Cleveland is one of the most vibrant cities in America, our downtown teeming with excitement and opportunity at every turn. Over the past three decades, Kilgore Trout has undergone a few renaissances of our own. Eton Square became Eton Collection which became Eton Chagrin Boulevard (still the finest shopping destination in northern Ohio). We expanded and remodeled our store several times to keep things fresh and interesting for new generations of customers, many of whom now choose to live downtown. It all begs the question: Has there ever been a more exciting time in Cleveland’s history? Thanks for shopping with us, enjoy the magazine, and we hope to see you soon at Kilgore Trout.
in store
EVENTS MARCH 11–12
FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA Join Ermenegildo Zegna Made-to-Measure Specialist Alessandro Acquadro for the ultimate “Su Misura” experience. Discover the new spring/summer 2016 seasonal fabrics, check out the Casual Luxury made-to-measure collection, and preview expanded in-stock collections from Ermenegildo Zegna and Z Zegna. Call or email your sales consultant for your personal appointment, or just stop in.
THROUGH MARCH 31
Trout Club points will be earned.
OUR RESTAURANT DEAL IS BACK! Spend $500 or more in one Kilgore Trout visit and we’ll reward you with a $100 gift certificate to any Zack Bruell restaurant. It’s our most popular offer, so take advantage soon. Through March 31, 2016 or while supplies last. Not valid with any other offer or discount. One per customer.
Kilgore Trout is located at Eton Chagrin Boulevard, just one half-mile east of Interstate 271/Chagrin Boulevard exit. 28601 Chagrin Boulevard, Cleveland, Ohio 44122 216.831.0488, kilgoretrout.com Shop Monday-Saturday 10-6, Thursday 10-8
APRIL 1–2
FRIDAY AND SATURDAY
SAMUELSOHN & MAGNANNI Customary made-to-measure fees will be waived. Free Magnanni belt with Magnanni shoe purchase. Dorian Anderson will be in store with the spring/ summer fabric swatches from Samuelsohn. Plus, all the latest men’s footwear from Magnanni, and a gift with your Magnanni purchase. Order must be placed at event. Trout Club points will be earned.
Connect with kilgoretroutcleveland on Facebook and Instagram for the latest and greatest.
TROUT CLUB MEMBERS EARN POINTS WITH EVERY PURCHASE!
Accrue 1 point for every $1 in merchandise purchases, and receive a $50 reward for every 1,000 points. Then spend your reward dollars like cash during redemption periods. (*Men’s footwear, alterations, shipping and sales tax are not eligible when earning or redeeming Trout Club points. Visit kilgoretrout.com to enroll.)
WHEN YOU NEED US, WE’RE HERE. CONTACT US ANYTIME AT 216.831.0488, OR EMAIL YOUR SALES CONSULTANT DIRECTLY: Wally Joel Cheryl
wnaymon@kilgoretrout.com jtstecker@kilgoretrout.com cmacmaster@kilgoretrout.com
Laura Marco Merissa Paul
lmarotta@kilgoretrout.com mrinaldi@kilgoretrout.com mkrivanek@kilgoretrout.com pconnors@kilgoretrout.com
Andrea anaymon@kilgoretrout.com Chrissy cstone@kilgoretrout.com Sandy shossack@kilgoretrout.com
LOOKS LIKE SPRING DESIGN/DIRECTION D IGN/DIRE E ION CHRISTOPHER ECTION OPH HIXSON STYLING LING ASSISTANT SS GIANMARCO G GIAN ARC RINALDI PHOTOGRAPHY PHOT P OT TOGRAPHY T OGRAPHY JIM MARTIN RTIN POSTOST-PRODUCTION T PRODUCTIO T-P TRO RODUCTION MIKE STEINER
MEN’S MUST-HAVES SPRING/SUMMER ‘16
DESIGN/DIRECTION CHRISTOPHER HIXSON STYLING ASSISTANT GIANMARCO RINALDI PHOTOGRAPHY JIM MARTIN POST-PRODUCTION MIKE STEINER
Officine Generale Japanese silk seersucker sport jacket, ultra-light garment-dyed jersey polo
Luciano Barbera wool/silk/linen-blend suit, cotton shirt Magnanni “Benitez” double-monk shoe in midnight suede
Gimo’s “Campanario” perforated suede blazer Giannetto Portofino slim-fit sand-washed and embroidered shirt Hudson “Byron” raw denim selvedge 5-pocket jean
Sol Angeles vintage-inspired soft cotton tees, made in downtown Los Angeles
Isaia wool/linen/silk-blend sportcoat, cotton shirt and cotton tie Lardini flax/linen jacket, fabric by Loro Piana Luciano Barbera floral-print sport shirt
Simon Miller “Summerland” slim-fit selvedge jean and natural cotton gauze shirt
Boglioli overdyed leather bomber jacket
Boglioli soft constructed jacket and Zanone ice cotton polo
Etro silk sport jacket, cotton trouser, cotton shirt and screenprint silk scarf
Moncler black nylon moto-inspired technical jacket and cotton pique polo with signature trim
Moncler cotton terry zip hoodie with polyamid overlay
Gran Sasso fresh cotton sweaters, Xacus cotton shirts with embroidery and vintage prints, Minerals cotton jersey polos
Bespoken double-faced oxford cloth jacket and cotton polo with ribbon detail
Rag & Bone “Manston” jacket in Salute Blue, silicone rinsed cotton slim-fit shirt
Billy Reid “Lexington” jacket and “Covington” pant separates and 100% cotton print shirt Orciani “Castagna” belt, Magnanni “Serrano” sneaker
WE’LL SEE YOU AT TROUT.
profile
For Kilgore Trout Founders Scholarship winner Juliana Shinn, every day at Kent State University’s Florence campus was
THE NEXT BEST DAY OF MY LIFE
G
rowing up in semi-rural Oklahoma, Juliana Shinn devoured her mother’s fashion magazines, impatiently waiting for the newest issue of Vogue to arrive in the family’s mailbox. “Those magazines were a beacon of culture and style in my boring rural life,” says Juliana. “I read them cover to cover and convinced myself that I was already an expert on the fashion industry.” As high school graduation approached, Juliana researched fashion programs and zeroed in on Kent State’s School of Fashion Design and Merchandising (incidentally one of the nation’s top ranked and one of only 13 member schools in the Council of Fashion Designers of America). Juliana’s decision was made easier after she was accepted and awarded several scholarships including the Wally Naymon/Kilgore Trout Founders Scholarship, a renewable merit-based scholarship awarded to incoming freshman. Now in her senior year, Juliana is certain she made the right decision by choosing Kent. “The highlight of my experience at KSU was—hands down—my semester at KSU Florence. Every day I was there was like the next best day of my life,” the 21-year old exclaims. “Florence is a very intimate school with a faculty of mostly native Italians, and the city attracts a diverse and freespirited crowd. I studied with 40 other fashion
Above: Juliana on a class trip to London during her semester at KSU Florence. Below: Juliana wears a scarf she hand wove during a half-semester workshop with Pat Kinsella (also pictured) at TeselArte, a textile mill in Florence. “I sat at a small loom inside of a larger industrial loom in a cluttered room and wove with locally purchased angora and wool yarns,” Juliana says.
students, and created very personal connections with professors, especially Pat Kinsella, the coordinator of the fashion program at KSUF.” The experience was deepened by class trips to the Premiére Vision textile forecasting expo in Paris and tours of the Milan shops of designers Gucci, Prada, D&G, and Moschino, where Kinsella facilitated conversations covering trends, clientele, store merchandising and product assortment. During her time at Kent, Juliana has also coached and recruited models for the Modista minority fashion club runway show, and held two internships in New York: one with a leading model consulting company, and the other with a design showroom where she learned firsthand the intricacies of the supply chain and business-to-business negotiations in the highly competitive clothing industry. As Juliana completes her final semester, she’s confident that her experiences will serve her well in her latest role: model coordinator for the school’s Annual Fashion Show, which attracts industry luminaries and designers to Kent. And while she’s still exploring career options, these days she’s more likely to be found reading industry publications Women’s Wear Daily and Doneger Weekly than her mother’s magazine subscriptions. PHOTOS. JULIANA SHINN / STOCKPHOTO
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profile Samuelsohn:
The Big Reveal
Tailored clothing’s best-kept secret comes out of the closet! BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN
These days, as business dress codes remain relaxed, men are choosing to wear fine tailored clothing because they want to, not because they have to. And men in the know are choosing Samuelsohn, an exceptional but low-profile clothing company that’s been crafting beautiful suits in Montreal since 1923. But low profile no more, new ownership at this Canadian company relaunched the brand in 2011 and business has more than doubled. Much of the credit goes to the company’s new president and chief creative officer, Arnold Brant Silverstone, a talented designer and visionary executive who lives and breathes the clothing business. Upon taking over, he quickly recognized a “diamond in the rough” and immediately updated the label, the logo, the fabrics, the fits, the colors, the buttons, the linings, the marketing and
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more. What remains constant: Samuelsohn’s commitment to exceptional quality, and the “expression” of its full-canvas handtailored suits that both fit and flatter the wearer. “I feel like I’ve come full circle,” says Silverstone, a third-generation clothing guy who grew up in his father’s suit factory in Montreal. “I’d always known and respected the Samuelsohn brand, Canada’s quintessential quality suit maker. (My father wore Samuelsohn suits!) As my career moved forward—from my father’s company to launching my own clothing label (that I ultimately sold to Oxford) to becoming design director at Nordstrom—I always dreamed of returning to manufacturing. When Samuelsohn was bought by Stephen Granovsky in 2010, I was recommended for the job of president, and felt it was exactly where I belonged.” hat makes Samuelsohn clothing so special? Silverstone could go on for hours. “First of all, the suits are a rare combination of modern styling and classic tailoring, featuring fully basted canvas construction and hand-tailored details. Since all garments are produced in our own factory, we control every step of the process. Second, we are known for innovation, e.g. we were the first to come out with luxury performance fabrics that are cool, comfortable and wrinkle resistant; we’ve even developed clothing with carbon fiber! Third, we have the cleanest distribution in the industry: we don’t sell to outlets, only the best specialty stores in North America. Fourth of course is our tremendous intrinsic value: there’s more craftsmanship in a Samuelsohn garment than in most Italian brands that are double the price. (Canada’s duty advantages and exchange rates offer additional value for American customers.) Fifth, our made-tomeasure programs are the best in the industry. Sixth is our company culture: although we’re privately owned, we’re run more like a family business than a large corporation, with emphasis on customer service, personal relationships and employee appreciation. “I know it sounds counterintuitive, but making money is not our number-one priority; we’re more concerned with providing the best goods at the best value and satisfying our customers so they’ll keep coming back.” And come back they do! For spring ’16, check out the beautifully tailored Samuelsohn clothing arriving on our selling floor now. For practical types, we love the performance suit in a Loro Piana Storm System fabric with stretch. (It’s waterproof, wrinkle resistant and amazingly comfortable!) Or try the updated luxury travel blazer with 12 pockets and extra zippers. For nights and weekends, there’s an amazing washed cashmere sportcoat. And to make a bold fashion statement, why not a beautifully tailored striped DB suit in a hot shade of blue? Which is his favorite? “It’s like asking a parent to choose his favorite child,” Silverstone responds. So we’ll let you, our customers, be the judge…
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the FASHION forum
NEVER TOO LATE FOR A CHANGE
DURABLE DENIM
L
ooking at the current high-fashion uses for denim, from threepiece suits to stylish coats, it can be hard to imagine just how utilitarian the cotton fabric was in its earlier days, when it was worn during the California Gold Rush and used to make early 20th-century prison uniforms. That latter usage surprised even fashion historian Emma McClendon, author of the new book Denim: Fashion’s Frontier and curator of the exhibition of the same name at New York City’s Museum at FIT. Still, McClendon admits that denim’s constant permutations really shouldn’t be shocking. “It’s the rare fabric that’s relatively inexpensive to produce, extremely durable, and easy to care for,” she says. —BSL
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TOP: GETTY IMAGES. BOTTOM: COURTESY OF MUSEUM AT FIT
We’ve seen a complete changing of the guard in the late-night talk show world, with Stephen Colbert, Jimmy Fallon, James Corden, Seth Myers, Jimmy Kimmel and Trevor Noah among the funnymen now sitting in the interviewers’ chairs. But if the faces have changed, the uniform has remained mostly the same: dark suit, white or blue shirt, boring tie. While these guys certainly look dapper, one can’t help but feel they could push the sartorial envelope a bit more. Corden is one of the faces of Burberry, so where are the cutting-edge designs and pops of plaid? Fallon recently signed a deal with G-III for licensed athletic wear, so perhaps he’s saving all his creative juices for that collaboration. And would it kill Myers to borrow something more casual and creative from Stefon, his former flame from Saturday Night Live? The time is ripe to start a trend. —BSL
The Fashion Forum
THE MAN, THE MYTH
Italians are known to be superstitious, none more so than the Neapolitans.
In addition to the distinctive touch Isaia’s red coral pin adds to the brand’s garments, they believe it also brings luck to the wearer. "We still keep the original piece of Isaia red coral, given to me by a friend, in our Milan flagship store,” says Gianluca Isaia. “And every jacket we make comes with a red coral lapel pin to bring good luck to he who wears it.” The coral motif can also be spotted elsewhere throughout the collection, on buttons, under collars and in stitching. As Isaia recounts from ancient mythology, Perseus slayed Medusa and delivered her head as a gift to the king of Seriphos, who was to wed his mother. During his travels home, Perseus fell in love with Andromeda, whom he found chained to a rock about to be eaten by the evil sea-monster Cetus. To prove his love and save her life, Perseus killed the terrible beast. As he sat to wash his hands in the sea, Perseus laid down the sack that contained Medusa's head. Her blood dripped into the water and instantly hardened into the form we recognize today as red coral. Just as the head of Medusa brought luck to Perseus in his battle with Cetus, red coral brings luck to the distinguished man who chooses an Isaia garment. —JL
FASHIONABLE FRIDA Is there anything more to know about Frida Kahlo? The great Mexican artist has been given the filmic treatment by Julie Taymor (and played by Salma Hayek), and her work has been displayed everywhere from LACMA to the Philadelphia Museum of Art to the New York Botanical Garden. But another side of this groundbreaking woman is explored in Frida Kahlo: Fashion as the Art of Being (Assouline, $195), a new book by journalist Susana Martinez Vidal that was inspired by an exhibition of Kahlo’s own clothing at her home, La Casa Azul. As Vidal deftly illustrates, Kahlo’s fashion aesthetic is something neither time nor death can diminish. —BSL
STREET SMART
Amsterdam’s Tassenmuseum gives the term “bag lady” a whole new (chic) meaning. Inside a beautiful canal-side building, you can view hundreds of purses in various shapes, sizes and designs, spanning from the 1500s to the modern-day. This spring, the museum’s Street Couture exhibition (through June 5) offers an enlightening perspective on these accessories as it showcases colorful, playful and inventive bags by such top fashion names as Marc Jacobs, Valentino, Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Dior, sometimes pairing them with international fashion ranging from Japanese “Lolita” clothing to American hip-hop outfits to illustrate how one influences the other. It’s definitely worth crossing the Atlantic to witness these crossovers! —BSL
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ask
SPRING 2016 FASHION TIPS FOR HIM
Q:
I see a lot of my favorite suit brands offering made-to-measure suits and sportcoats. Is it worth the extra time and money? Yes! You get to pick the fabrics, the model and the details (linings, buttons, monograms), and the fit is sure to flatter. Depending on the maker, delivery is usually within four to six weeks of getting measured, and we guarantee that this will become your go-to favorite suit! Our suggestion: select a pattern (subtle or bold) rather than a solid, or perhaps a seasonal fabric. If you’re going for special, why not make it really special?
plan on taking several long weekends this Any packing tips for a carry-on bag? Q: Isummer.
Q:
When is, and isn’t it, appropriate to wear sneakers?
Except for formal occasions and business meetings with conservative clients, it’s almost always okay to wear sneakers, especially contemporary leather or suede styles that look nothing like gym shoes. Modern sneakers might have contrast soles or colorful laces; they can cost as much as leather shoes and serve as a sort of hybrid between work and play. They’re certainly comfortable, and add a touch of personality to pants and a sportcoat. That said, while some guys can pull it off, wearing sneakers with a suit takes a certain panache. If you’ve got it, go for it! But if you’re at all uncertain, stick to the updated leather shoes currently on our selling floor. Modern footwear will elevate your entire wardrobe.
Light and casual are the buzzwords for weekends away. For travel, wear the pieces that take up the most room: long pants (lightweight five-pocket styles are perfect for most occasions), a long-sleeve woven shirt in cotton or linen and either a soft sportcoat or cardigan, depending on your weekend agenda. Then throw the rest into your carry-on—a short-sleeve woven shirt, two short-sleeve polos, two T-shirts, shorts, a swimsuit, underwear—and you’re good to go. If there’s room in your bag for sandals and grooming products, toss them in too. If not, hotels (and considerate hosts) can generally supply shampoo, moisturizer and flip-flops. If you’re a guest in someone’s home, don’t forget to bring a bottle of good wine. (But never pack sparkling wine in your checked bag, as it’s likely to explode. We know from experience!) If you’re struggling to zip your overstuffed carryon, you need a new travel bag! Come in and let us show you our favorite designs.
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ask
SPRING 2016 FASHION TIPS FOR HER
Q:
There seems to be a lot of pastel-colored clothing this season. How can I wear these sugary shades without looking like an Easter egg?
IMAGES COURTESY OF PANTONE
How indeed. Pantone named light pink “Rose Quartz” and baby blue “Serenity” as the colors of 2016, and you’re not alone in being wary of wearing them. But these colors, along with other pale hues like mint and lavender, can infuse your look with a soft, nostalgic feel. When choosing one of these sweet treats, remember that structure is key. Look for streamlined styles and consider the material: if eyelet brings to mind your first baby bonnet, try a chambray shirt in a shade of pale hydrangea, or a buttery rose-tone leather jacket. If you want even more edge, look for statement hardware like zippers or studs. Still unconvinced? Don’t fret. Part of developing a signature style is knowing what works for you and having the confidence to sit out the trends that don’t. And just because it’s spring doesn’t mean you have to turn to color. Layered shades of gray, cream and white can be light and happy when done right—just as chic for the season ahead.
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Q:
What one item can I purchase to infuse my wardrobe with fun?
Q:
Will you be carrying the new cropped flares I saw walking the runways?
A new warm-weather dress, of course! Dresses are comfortable, figure flattering and so easy to wear. We have new styles in store to suit every taste, including some fresh micro-print florals and textured treatments like mesh overlays and laser cutouts. Norma Kamali, one of our favorite designers from years ago, is back in the game with a versatile all-in-one dress that can be worn nine different ways. It can be dressed up or down, and whenever a woman tries it on we hear “Wow!” from inside the dressing room. Come into the store and see how fabulous you can feel.
Yes, cropped flares from Veronica Beard and L’Agence will be here at Kilgore Trout this season! We were excited to see a truly new silhouette in women’s fashion, both on the runways and in spring 2016 fashion editorials, but we understand that the style can be daunting because it’s something women are not used to seeing. However, there’s no reason to be scared if you style them right. We suggest buying cropped flares only in black or navy and pairing with a flowy, light-colored top and a sexy high-heel. (This is no time for flats!) Wear with confidence and be the first among your friends that dares to flare.
PHOTOGRAPHY:SERGIO KURHAJEC HAIR:MARCELINO GONZALEZ MAKEUP:CLAIRE BAYLEY STYLING:WENDY MCNETT
DRESSing FOR A
GOODTIME Bring on the season of fun! Add style and charisma to spring and summer with bright colors, breathable linens, light sportcoats, fun prints and great shades.
SCENE WITH STYLE
MAKING a
Lightweight sportcoats with colorful pocket squares and great accessories bring life to the party.
profile
Soft Touch
Boglioli is making the most of today’s “jacket moment.” BY BRIAN SCOTT LIPTON
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Becoming a standout brand in the world of Italian men’s fashion is far from an easy task, but it’s one that Boglioli has done in just two decades. While the Milanese company’s roots go back centuries, as topnotch tailors, Boglioli has made its mark in more recent times thanks to the softness of its fabrics— which range from linen blends to wools to cashmeres—and its unparalleled expertise in garment dyeing, says managing director David Newlove. “We take our fabric straight from our mills, then we dye it, make the jacket, wash it and tumble dry it,” says Newlove. “It’s sort of a science, in a way, but we use our own recipes. We know that each fiber we use reacts differently, but we always end up with an incredibly soft jacket. It’s important to be consistent.” Indeed, Boglioli’s knowledge of how to make the ideal unconstructed jacket is second to none. “It’s true; a lot of companies can produce a deconstructed jacket, but not like ours. We call ours ‘empty,’” explains Newlove, who spent 17 years working for Giorgio Armani. “Because of the cut and the structure, our jacket appears to have construction when it actually doesn’t. Your body is the canvas that makes it fit so well. And unlike a lot of companies, we only make six jackets at a time. It’s a very slow process. But if you overload the washing machines or dryers, the jackets will shrink too much. We never cut corners.” As Newlove points out, the company is expanding into other areas of tailored clothing and sportswear (including a women’s line) under newly installed creative director Davide Morello. Nonetheless, its commitment to the jacket is especially important these days. “We are definitely in a jacket moment,” he says. “I know it from talking to retailers; I see it from walking the street. Jackets are big with people in the tech industries, with emerging professionals, and with the cool hipster guy, along with the luxury market. I think we’ve barely scratched the surface of men who want jackets. The marketplace is definitely going in our direction. And once you’ve worn one of our jackets, you won’t go back!”
GOLF
A Forum Magazine Special Section
Sea Island Spotlight David Feherty Keeps it Real
Brandt Snedeker
Talks Pop-Style Putting
GETTY 1
Teaching With Robots Golfwear: Then and Now
players
A HIGHLY RANKED PRO GOLFER WITH A UNIQUE PUTTING STROKE, BRANDT SNEDEKER SHARES SOME SECRETS. BY TERRY C. GROSSMAN
a passion for it so I played all the time and practiced all the time.
Distinctive
Style
You’ve had enormous success with your pop-style putting stroke: why do few other pros use it? That’s a very good question, and I haven’t the faintest idea. I guess because it’s difficult. It’s something I’ve always done but I suppose it’s hard for others to teach themselves to do it because the way I hit the ball is so counterintuitive. But it’s something I’ve always done so it feels natural to me.
Did others try to dissuade you from putting that way? Yes, when I was younger they did. As I got better and better, I refined it over the years and made it a little simpler and easier to repeat.
Which course has the toughest greens?
is nickname is Sneds, the Nashvillebased pro golfer with the unusual putting style, and at age 35 he’s one of the best there is. A candid and down-to-earth family man who’s as fun to interview as he is to watch on the course, he and his wife Mandy started a foundation in 2013 that helps underprivileged kids who need a break in life. He’s also known for his charity work to benefit victims of natural disasters, and for his memorable MasterCard commercials in which Tom Watson mispronounces his name. Here, we chat with Sneds about his passion.
What first piqued your interest in golf? I started playing when I was about six years old and just kind of fell in love with it. My brother and I played a lot growing up; I had
Augusta National. They are so severe and so fast and the margin of error is so small that it’s extremely difficult to be aggressive: because they’re so fast, you have to be defensive.
Some friends from Nashville want to know how you rate the greens at the Hillwood Golf Club, which you play when you’re home. They re-did them with Bermuda a couple of years ago and they’re extremely fast. They’re difficult to read and they have a bunch of small slopes that are tough to understand. Playing there has definitely contributed to my green reading skills.
Regarding green reading skills, is this something you’re born with or can it be learned? It’s a bit of both. I think that I was definitely born with an innate ability. But as I played more and more, I refined my green reading over the years by learning to hit the ball consistently at a desired speed. The trick is learning how hard to hit the ball so as to produce the desired speed and to be able to do that consistently until it becomes automatic. If you can’t hit the putt the same way every time, it’s not going to matter how well you read the greens.
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Can you give us any tricks of the trade? Do you take notes and reference them during the round?
You won $10 million at that FedEx Cup in 2012; would you change that playoff system if you could?
One of the things I love to do before the tournament starts is play in the pro ams and try to read other people’s putts, so I can tell if I’m misreading or if they’re hitting them poorly. This gives me a general idea of what’s going on around the greens. I take notes when there are certain undulations that are tricky or counter to what you’d think. At times, some putts are faster while others are slower than they look. It just comes with experience.
No. Maybe I’d tweak it a little by giving out the points a bit differently, but the tour has done a great job by giving everybody a chance to win. I wouldn’t change much.
Your biggest regret as a touring pro?
I actually changed putters for about two months last year but I’m now back with my old one.
Not having the experience as a 26-year-old to know what’s important and what’s not, what to worry about and what not to… That’s just part of the stuff you learn out here on the tour. This being my ninth year, I’ve kind of figured out what’s important and what’s not. As a 26-year-old, you really have no idea; you’re just trying to figure it out. I wish I could have kicked my younger self in the butt to have figured it out a little sooner.
I used that model for 20 years but now use it to move logs in the fireplace…
How are you feeling these days and what’s your fitness regimen?
Ha! Not what it was designed for, but I use some shafts at home to do different things with so I get what you’re saying...
I had some injuries for a few years but that’s in the past and my body is now feeling great. I have a pretty stringent workout routine, a clearly defined program including an hour and a half a day of stretching and working out… soft tissue stuff to keep my body pliable. Off weeks I do more weight lifting and during the week more stretching and core stuff. Then there’s paying attention to diet, keeping myself hydrated, and I’m good to go.
I read that you changed putters. Think you’ll ever return to your old Odyssey Rossie II?
Who do you consider the best putters of all time? That’s a tough one. I think Jack Nicklaus was probably one of the best putters of all time just because of the amount of putts he made to win tournaments. And Tiger’s up there too due to the amount of putts he had to make under severe pressure and his ability to make them. Billy Casper and Jackie Burke were also among the best. Out here on the tour right now, I love watching Steve Stricker, or Brad Faxon when he gets out.
How about Crenshaw, who you didn’t mention? Yes, Ben. We play a practice round together at Augusta every year because I love watching him putt on those greens. I love seeing how he reads them, how he hits them, his stroke… it’s a thing of beauty. It’s so natural and free flowing, which I’d love to be…
Describe your fashion style on and off the course.
“I SUPPOSE IT’S HARD FOR OTHERS TO TEACH THEMSELVES [MY PUTTING STYLE] BECAUSE THE WAY I HIT THE BALL IS SO COUNTERINTUITIVE.”
Who do you consider the greatest golfer of all time? Jack Nicklaus, although I think Tiger has a chance to be right up there with him. Tiger had the most impressive run in golf: he led for seven years. I’m not sure he’ll end up winning as many as Jack did since he’s been so injured and his body has broken down. I really hope he gets healthy and comes back in his 40s: it would be great for him and great for the game of golf. So I hope to see him challenge Jack’s record but right now, I’d have to go with Jack.
Well I’ve been partnering with Peter Millar for four years now and I’ve got to say they make it easy to look good. They’re a quality brand with an unbelievable array of great clothes. So whether I’m wearing them on the golf course or for my off-the-course casual lifestyle, their stuff looks great: golf shirts, button-down shirts, sweaters, sports blazers. When I’m home with the kids on weekends, I’m most often in a T-shirt and jeans.
Any other interests?
What do you think about the impact of modern equipment on classic courses now that you pros can hit much further?
Being with my kids, who are right now at fun ages: five and three. I like getting outdoors. I love fishing and hunting.
You know, it’s just like anything else in life: technology enhances but also makes some things obsolete. We redo buildings, we redo cars to accommodate technology, so why not golf courses? We modify everything else! People get so hung up on traditional golf courses, but they just need to be tweaked a bit by adding some yardage. I think golf has been given an unfair rap: technological advances aren’t such a bad thing.
Are you introducing your kids to golf? They’re already both into it and they love it. My little man especially, who is only three years old, wants to play every day. I love that they’re liking it!
Do you dream of them becoming pro golfers? No, I wouldn’t push them. It’s ironic that a lot of guys on the tour push their kids away from golf rather than towards it because we realize that it takes lots of hard work, lots of luck and the chances of turning pro are so slim. But if my kids end up being passionate about golf and that’s the goal they want to pursue, then I’ll do everything in my power to help them.
What was your single best moment on the golf course? Winning the FedEx Cup. That was obviously a huge day for me, for my career, and most importantly for my confidence. Beating the best players in the world at their best—wow!
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Evolution
Golf attire then and now. BY CHRISTIAN CHENSVOLD
GETTY1 THE LIFE PICTURE COLLECTION
Right: Ben Hogan, 1955 Below: The Duke of Windsor (left) with Lord Castleross, 1933
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GETTY1 HULTON ROYALS COLLECTION
history
Style
When I took up golf at the age of 41, the first thing I did was order a pair of shoes. Not just any shoes, mind you, as golf presented the perfect opportunity to bust out brownand-white spectator wingtips. When my Millennial-generation instructor saw me, he cast a doubtful eye. “The way it works,” he said, “is you’ve got to have game to wear stuff like that.” I can see where he was coming from. I’ll never forget being in the group behind a freshly minted hacker. He hit every ball out of bounds, insisted on looking for it, and when he finally found it, took five strokes trying to hack it out of thick brush. But even more memorable than the
colossal waste of time he imposed on everyone behind him was his bubble-gum pink sweater. There was something offensive in his assumption that he could wear fun clothes despite having no skill nor sense of etiquette. But the problem with golf attire today is not that it’s too flamboyant, but that it’s too serious. Crazy pants show up now and then, but for the most part golf clothing embodies the game’s obsession with professionalization, technology, corporate sponsorship and branding, leaving few traces of its aristocratic origins or Caddyshack hijinks. If we were to gather a metaphoric foursome representing the past hundred years of golf attire, we would see a sartorial mirror of change in both the game and society at large. Let’s say that first on the tee box is the Gentleman. His hero is the Duke of Windsor, and he is clad in argyle knee socks, tweed plusfours (knickers), tattersall shirt, wool tie and Fair Isle sweater. For him golf is a game played on the vast acreage that surrounds a country estate—land that is used for farming (golf was invented by Scottish shepherds, after all), hunting, riding and keeping everyone else—save for the servants—as far away as possible. The clothing hardly differs from that worn for other country activities. Yet despite how it seems, there’s still a touch of the modern: for when the Duke of Windsor, the biggest fashion leader of his era, first donned a Fair Isle sweater in 1921, it was something new. Next on the tee is the Classicist, from whom I take my personal inspiration. Whereas the Gentleman looks anachronistic, the Classicist is inspired by the past but stylistically relevant. The shoes are traditional, but the trousers are pulled from the man’s everyday wardrobe. The necktie is no longer customary, and in place of a dress shirt is a fitted short-sleeve polo shirt covered by a cashmere Vneck. A flat cap tops off the outfit. This simple, modern, timeless look was personified by Ben Hogan in the 1950s. Wisecracking his way to the tee box next is the Country Clubber, even if he’s playing his local muni course at the discounted twilight rate. This guy’s hero is Bill Murray, and he resides in a sunny suburban community. He exemplifies the era when golf courses sprouted up across America, and middle-class desk jockeys took up golf to climb the social ladder. The clothing symbolizes a life of carefree suburban leisure: loud pants clash with brightcolored shirts and alpaca cardigans, and the clown colors seem to perfectly reflect the comedy of errors that is the game of golf. Hats are dispensed with altogether. Finally stepping onto the tee box—and shooting from the blacks— is an imposing figure, so teched-out he simply must be a single-
ISTOCK: CHATCHAI SOMWAT
Right: Sergio Garcia, 2013 Below: Bobby Jones, 1920s
digit. He doesn’t wear wingtips, but shoes that look designed for skateboarding. His clothing is loaded with performance attributes and splattered with manufacturers’ logos. He wears a baseball cap, where yet another logo blares its brand loyalty. Everything is color-coordinated, from his glove to his belt to driver head, which comes with 12 hosel adjustments. This is the Technocrat. In the near future, research will find that pants and zippered pullovers create wind resistance, and that a spandex bodysuit—the kind speed-skaters wear—can increase clubhead speed by an average of 1.2 miles per hour. This guy will be the first at his club to wear one. On the surface it would seem like little in the game of golf has changed: you still try to hit a ball 400 yards into a four-and-a-half-inch hole in four strokes. Yet golf has always been driven by change and technology—the old balls were called featheries precisely because they were stuffed with feathers. And the world of golf instruction is increasingly accepting that there is no perfect onesize-fits-all swing, and that it’s more a matter of finding your own unique way of achieving the desired result. Dressing for golf should be no different: you can wear whatever the hell you want, so long as it works for you.
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interview
KNOWN FOR HIS WIT, WISDOM, CANDOR AND CRAZINESS, BROADCASTER DAVID FEHERTY ADDS SOME MUCH-NEEDED PERSONALITY TO THE GAME OF GOLF. BY TERRY C. GROSSMAN that Tiger Woods was starting out when he broadcast his first Masters and Jordan Spieth appeared on the scene for his last. Upon leaving CBS, Feherty signed contracts with NBC Sports and the Golf Channel, where he still does his highly rated interview series, launched in 2011. Here, we talk to him about the state of professional golf and the turns his own career has taken.
Changing the Game uch has been written about David Feherty’s demons: a past tinged by drinking, drugs, insomnia, instability and other evidence of a dark side. Not enough has been written about his brilliance: an extreme work ethic, tremendous generosity (his Troops First foundation has raised millions, providing assistance, counsel and training to wounded soldiers), incredible charm, self-deprecating humor and a unique ability to get inside the heads and hearts of his interview subjects to showcase a little-known side of even the best-known celebrities. His is a talent that is very rare indeed. Growing up in war-torn Northern Ireland, Feherty turned pro at 17 (with a five handicap) and played in the ’91 Ryder Cup and the ’92 Masters. He finished top 10 in three majors but retired from his professional career in ’97, just when CBS was looking for an on-course analyst. He attributes his 19-year tenure at CBS to good luck, noting
What is it about golf that attracts so many different personality types? Can you articulate the appeal of this game?
It’s like no other sport in that it has an addictive quality. Not everyone can throw a 60-yard touchdown pass but everyone can hit a ball in the middle of the clubface down the center of the fairway. There’s an indescribable feeling the first time it happens: you feel like the master of the universe because you’ve influenced a small object to go a long way, exactly where you want it to. There’s a sweetness to it. And once you’ve done it once, you want to do it again. Kind of like heroin.
Do you feel you lived up to your potential on the course? Oh I think I went way past it. Not that I was ever one of the top players in the world, but I got close at times and I have no idea why.
Who do you consider the greatest golfer of all time? Tiger Woods. And it was harder to win in his era than it is today.
Do you think there will ever be another player who will dominate the tour for as long a stretch as Tiger did? Not in my grandchildren’s lifetimes. It was an extraordinary spell.
Who has the sweetest swing in golf today? Boo Weekley. There are players who line up behind him just to watch him hit on the range. It’s just gorgeous! He’s not a clothes horse; he’s not in great shape (he’s got issues with his back). In fact, he’s got a body like a ruptured sofa. But what a swing!
Well I kind of resemble him: the body, not the swing... I’ve been there as well. When I quit drinking, I lost 75 pounds. I
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modern courses. I find it a shame that for the pros, the new equipment has taken the teeth out of these classic courses.
had been close to 250. I was six inches taller if I’d lie on my back…
You’re famous for your very insightful interviews. Which are your favorites?
But all they’d have to do to make those courses relevant again is make the surface of the ball a little bigger. We did it once before when the diameter went from 1.62 to 1.68 inches. It makes the ball sit up around the greens a little better so it becomes easier for the amateurs to chip. But for the pros, it’s harder to hit it in a straight line. It spins more and won’t go as far. But that’s way too simple a solution for the ruling bodies, who just want to be members of each other’s golf clubs and don’t care about much else.
Well, I’ve interviewed a couple of presidents, most recently George W. I’ve also interviewed Bill Clinton and I love the fact that these two are polar opposites but great friends. Then there was Bill Russell, the greatest winner in the history of American sports. I’ve also interviewed Nicklaus, Watson, Samuel L. Jackson, Larry David… a tremendous cross section of people. But if I had to pick a favorite, I guess it would be Lee Trevino, my first interview, and my hero growing up. I remember watching him win the 1968 U.S. Open: there was just something special about Lee Trevino… I was only 10 years old at the time but I loved his style, his attitude. Then when I got a little older, I learned his story. He came from nothing: that’s my kind of people.
What took them so long to bring the British Open back to Ireland, where Royal Portrush will host it in 2019? You’re right: it’s not been there since 1951. Of course we had The Troubles in Northern Ireland and it has to be in Northern Ireland: It would break tradition if it were in the South. There are only a couple of viable venues in Northern Ireland, Royal County Down Golf Club being one of them. But it doesn’t have the infrastructure: you couldn’t get the crowd in and out. I think it’s taken them this long to get back to Royal Portrush because they were unwilling to spend what it would take to make it more accessible. The golf course is spectacular, but they still have a lot more work to do around it.
Which golfer, living or dead, would you most like to have interviewed? I would love to have interviewed Seve (Ballesteros). We lost him, but he would definitely have been on my list. He was a magician, a warlock. He could change the weather with his face.
Here’s a tough one: Spieth, McIlroy or Day? That is a tough one! I mean it’s so hard to pick between Jordan Spieth and Rory McIlroy. Rory has more majors and he’s a little older but Jordan…the last time we had a child this special, there were three wise men and a donkey involved. So I can’t really choose. By the way, you should know that I’m not really an expert on golf; I just play one on television.
If you were stuck playing on one course over and over, which would you pick? St. Andrews. Hitting to the 18th green, you feel like you’re playing into the soul of golf.
What do you think of McIlroy’s decision to play for the Republic of Ireland in the 2016 Olympics? Whether you’re British or Irish, if you come from Northern
“THE LAST TIME WE HAD A CHILD AS SPECIAL AS JORDAN SPIETH, THERE WERE THREE WISE MEN AND A DONKEY INVOLVED.”
Do you think technology has ruined or enhanced the game?
Ireland, you have to make a decision. I had two passports for a long time and exchanged them both for an American one. I’m very happy with that decision. It’s not political and it’s not geographic: who you are is mostly an emotional issue. I didn’t know who I was until, at age 32, I captained the Irish side at the Dunhill Cup; when they raised the flag after we won, I got this huge lump in my throat. I remember thinking, “Sh*t, I’m Irish!” I hadn’t thought much about it until that point but it’s definitely an emotional thing.
It’s definitely enhanced the game. For anyone who thinks it’s made the game too easy, just take a look at your score card. The amateurs are the important people in the game. Professional golfers are in the stratosphere where it really doesn’t matter. It’s the people who watch the game and pay for the 30-second commercials who drive the industry. They’re the important ones.
Is there any room in golf for tournaments played with older clubs and balls, like those used 25 years ago?
What’s the toughest part of your job?
I think it’s a great idea; there’s room for a tournament like that for sure. I know they have this Hickory event that brings guys to their knees. Something between present day and Hickory would be interesting as well. I was using a wooden driver at the end of my career…
The constant travel. I get worn out with it: airports, hotels, being away from home…
And what, in your career, has been your biggest regret? I don’t have regrets. I was a 17 year old with a five handicap and I decided in a geography class to drop out of school and become a professional golfer. When I look back, it was a miracle. Then, after I left professional golf, I was the right drunk in the right bar at the right time when CBS wanted to hire a course reporter. So I’ve been astonishingly lucky throughout my career.
Today, the pros are carrying the ball over 240-yard fairway traps. With a five iron!
Correct. I recently played the gorgeous Sea Island golf course where the pros play the RSM Classic and which is, like older classic courses, relatively short compared to the
They say it’s better to be lucky than good… No sh*t!
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designers
WORK IT
OUR FAVORITE MEN IN FASHION TALK FIRST JOBS AND SURPRISING JOURNEYS TO THE TOP. BY JILLIAN LAROCHELLE
GIANLUCA ISAIA, ISAIA SEBASTIAN DOLLINGER, ETON My first real job was actually unpaid since I dropped out of school (truth be told I was kicked out). My father helped me get a trainee job at a local hotel where I cleaned rooms, worked with the maintenance team and helped out in the conference center. I think my father thought that because I was doing this rather boring job at 16, I would reconsider my decision to drop out and return to school. I can’t say I enjoyed working at the hotel but at least I learned I never want to work at hotels. I enlisted in the army at 17 against my will and I was out of the hotel world after six months. After 10 months in the army service and another less successful career at a reception job, I moved back to my old hometown and applied for a position in the warehouse at Eton. That was my first job in the business. I was about to turn 19 and through Eton I heard about a sales rep position at Harrods in London. I got the job and that became the starting point to my career in fashion. I love working at Eton because of my colleagues. I get to travel to so many interesting places, I find time to play with my band, Highly Sedated, and I have a genuine passion for what I do. I have found a profession that I enjoy doing so much so it rarely feels like I'm working. That has got to be the ultimate feeling. I guess it's a matter of finding what you love and then going out of your way to do it. I have worked hard to get where I am today, but the rewarding everyday feeling makes it all worth it.
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My first job was in London, folding shirts in a shop for £25 a week. This position eventually led me to my current role because I was (and still am) the best folding man around! The best part about my job as CEO of Isaia is that I wake up in the morning happy to go to work…
designers
SAM KU, AG I worked summer retail at a Champs Sports in the local mall. I was not a very good sales person, and this still holds true today! My first job out of college was a position in AG’s R&D facility, the department responsible for developing washes. I knew nothing about denim manufacturing at the time, so it was a very eye-opening learning process for me. Prior to this job I had worked a few internships in a couple different fields. One job was in finance, and another in an advertising firm. Neither really excited me all that much, so I told my father I would go work for him. My salary at the time was $30K. I think young people starting in fashion have to understand that starting salaries are what they are, and it takes time and experience to add value to a company. From this position, I moved to different parts of the company. I spent some time in the sample sewing room and learned how our product was constructed. I eventually moved into a design position, and I’m still involved in the design process today. The best part of working in fashion is seeing a project through from start to finish. The process of seeing something go from concept to development to sales and hitting the retail floor is a satisfying one.
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at your service
All Ways & Always
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KILGORE TROUT FORUM SS 2016