NÜÜS summer 2017 by Kleinwalsertal Tourismus eGen

[nüüs]

Alpine fever

Two half-pint Alpine herders

NEWS FROM KLEINWALSERTAL - The Magazine

“Genuss” is in the detail Kleinwalsertal’s “Genuss” huts

Summer 2017

CONTENTS

04 ALPINE FEVER THE CORRECT MEASURE

IMPRINT

Kleinwalsertal Tourismus eGen A-6992 Hirschegg, Kleinwalsertal Tel. +43 (0)5517 5114-0 www.kleinwalsertal.com DVR: 4010249

16 HAPPINESS VITAL PATHS AND WALSER OMGANG

All information has been compiled to the best of our knowledge and is not binding. No claims can be made in the event of possible errors.

Less is often more. This magazine aims to set an example, and is printed on 100% recycled paper. Kleinwalsertal can also be found on:

22 MARMOT FAMILY CAMP

UP IN STYLE T R E KKIN G | T R A I L- & RU N N ING | (SPO RTS)FA SHIO N | YO UNG FA SHIO N M O U N TA I N - & E - B I K E S | B I K E R E N TA L & S E RV I C E ( 7 D AY S A W E E K )

KLEINWALSERTAL 28 “GENUSS” HUTS

WE HAVE TIME

WINTER WORLD

S P O RTS & FA S H I O N K ESS L E R | C LO S E TO T H E K A N Z E LWA N D BA H N I N R I E Z L E R N | W W W. S P O RT- K ESS L E R .CO M KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 3

ALPINE FEVER Two half-pint herders and their summer on the Alpe Bärgunt

ast summer, most city children went wild for Pokémon-Go and spent their days hunting virtual monsters. In the Walser mountains, however, a handful of children and young people spent their summer holidays working as herders.

Titus Moosbrugger (11) and Magnus Huber (12) are off up the Alpe Bärgunt again. The reason? To keep watch over Kleinwalsertal’s largest herd of 280 livestock.

It’s Titus’ fourth summer as a halfpint herdsman, and Magnus’ third. Nüüs accompanied the two of them over the summer to find out why they are so passionate about life in the Alps, and so ready to give up their home comforts for the simplicity of life in the mountains. It’s a cool, misty Sa-

turday morning in the middle of June when our junior herders meet their full-grown counterpart, Wolfgang Ott, for this summer’s first joint trip to the Bärgunthütte (1,408 m). Late snow and changeable weather have somewhat delayed the start of the Alpine summer. But today, it’s arrived. Most of their summer wards are taken from the Allgäu lowlands to Kleinwalsertal in large cattle transporters. From the car park in Baad, farmers and their helpers herd the animals towards the Bärgunthütte, the first stop of their summer holidays. There, they are placed under the watchful eye of Wolfgang and his team. Titus, Magnus, Wolfgang's sons Elias and Simon, and his nephew Martin, make their final preparations. The sound of the bells hurries the first herd forward, and the young she-

pherds get into position, equipped with their sticks. One herd after another reaches the pastures below the Bärgunthütte. There’s a touch of unrest in the air: the animals have to get used to being part of a large herd with many new faces, and some are not yet accustomed to eating fresh grass. But the herders also look slightly tense. They don’t yet know their protegés and their peculiarities, with the result that Titus nearly falls into a stream as he heads off a runaway. Wolfgang (49) is a rock amid the maelstrom. The Alpe Bärgunt has been his passion for 28 years. He is the third generation of a herding family. His gaze has been trained from childhood onwards, and he has developed a innate feel for the animals and their different charac-

ters. He knows many of the recent arrivals from last summer.

The Alpe Bärgunt is one of the oldest and largest pastures in Vorarlberg. This extensive Alpine area was first documented 500 years ago; its high pastures extend almost to the door of the Widdersteinhütte (2,009m). Alpine farming has been the most important supply source for the Walser since they settled in Kleinwalsertal in the 13th century. Ancient chronicles speak of the mountains as “the farmers’ bread basket”.

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 5

“For me there was never an alternative. Being outdoors all year round, living in tune with nature, and looking after the animals entrusted to me is pure happiness.” Wolfgang Ott, cattle herder

As tourism began to increase in the 1950s, Alpine farming was replaced as the most important economic driver and provider of employment. Many Alpine farms were disbanded, partly because it was increasingly difficult to find young people willing to take on the hard work in the mountains. In 1945, there were still 50 farms in Kleinwalsertal; today this number is down to 35. The livestock population has also changed considerably, and the number of dairy cows has declined significantly. For Wolfgang, however, there was never an alternative. For him, being outdoors all year round, living in tune with nature, and looking after the animals entrusted to him is pure happiness. And he is all the more delighted that a new generation of cattle herders is growing up in the shape of Magnus and Titus, as well as members of

his own family. It’s still two weeks until the long-awaited start of the summer holidays. When the day finally comes, the half-pint herdsmen arrive at the Bärgunthütte with their toothbrushes, a sturdy pair of boots, and some warm clothes. They sleep on mattresses on the floor. Equipped with running water and electricity, it is without a doubt the more comfortable of their overnight destinations, but for Magnus and Titus the highlight of the summer is the four weeks they spend on the Hochalp at approximately 2,000 metres, from the end of July to the end of August. Several times during the summer, the herd moves to fresh pastures higher up the mountain. As soon as they get used to the terrain, it is pure recovery time for the cattle, as the change in air makes them fitter and more robust, and strengthens their immune

system. The fitness of the cattle herders also improves continuously. As long as the animals are on the meadows of the Mittelalpe, they have to get up at 6.00 am every morning and climb their way up from the Bärgunthütte to the cattle. That’s quite a climb in one day. Rain or shine, they spend the whole day with the herd. They make sure that no animals are lost or injured, check the fences, or lend a hand when shrubs, small trees, or other plants have to be removed from the Alpine meadows to ensure their safety and useability. The idyllic Hochalpe Bärgunt Finally, on the last Sunday in July, it's time. They’re moving to the Hochalp. It is a hot summer day. By noon, dark clouds are gathe-

ring, but still they don’t leave until Title: “For me there was never an alternative. Being outdoors all year round, living in tune with nature, and looking after the animals entrusted to me is pure happiness.” Wolfgang Ott, cattle herder late afternoon, because driving the whole herd from the Mittelalp to the Hochalp requires numerous helpers. The route leads through some difficult terrain, which is also quite demanding for some hikers, especially the so-called “gesprengte Wegle” (“blasted path”). The rocky, narrow path with threateningly steep rock faces on either side does not allow for errors. Around 25 helpers, friends, family and neighbours have gathered together as, on the stroke of four o’ clock, the first raindrops start to fall. While the cattle are still

being gathered from remote slopes in all directions, a group of Haflingers takes off at a gallop. Within a very short time, they leave the steep ascent behind them, and seem to disappear into the expanse of the high mountains. Gradually, the cattle herd also begins to move. Of their own accord, the first animals begin to move briskly forwards. The group follows, and they make pretty quick progress. The summer storm isn’t holding back either: a never-ending downpour is accompanied by thunder and lightning. Titus is on the way with one of the first groups. But his hope of reaching the hut on the Hochalp and drying off disappears relatively quickly when he discovers that one of the pasture fences has given way, and that the animals are continuing towards the Widdersteinhütte. Before he can get warm and KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 7

dry in the hut, the missing animals must be rounded up and the fence fixed. The animals and their herders will now spend four weeks on the highest point of the Alpine Bärgunt region. The young herders love their time on the Hochalp. They find it more relaxing than the Mittelalp. The small, cosy cottage just below the Große Widderstein isn’t very big; there’s a shared living room, one bedroom, and the dormitory they all share. But they seem to have everything they need. When asked if they miss anything when they’re up here, the only reply is a quizzical eyebrow and a mischievous smile. They seem to enjoy the simplicity of life, based on the rhythm of the animals and nature - without television, Internet, or mobile phones. Warm showers depend on the solar panels, so sometimes there’s no hot water when you’re looking forward to it the most, for example after a rainy day out on the pastures. There have also been summers where the solar panels and the toilet have both given up the ghost entirely, and ingenious alternatives had to be found. On the Hochalp, Wolfgang’s team gets support from Marion Edlinger and her Border collie, Lea. While Marion is concerned mainly with domestic affairs, Lea is a trained sheepdog, and actively supports the herders in their work. At 7.00 am, it is still quiet. Only Wolfgang stands in front of the hut, using his binoculars to peer at the herd, which has spread out over the surrounding slopes. It is

“The animals and their herders will now spend four weeks on the highest point of the Alpine Bärgunt region. The young herders love their time on the Hochalp.”

a mystical morning. It has rained through the night, and the first rays of sunshine are breaking slowly through the wisps of fog, while the imposing Widderstein gradually appears in the background. For the boys, the day starts at 7:30 am. Before breakfast, they bring the two dairy cows, Bella and Frieda, in for milking. While Magnus and Titus help in the barn and clean the milking equipment, Simon lovingly tends a lame animal resting in front of the hut, while Martin goes out on the first round. At regular intervals, the herders set out to count the livestock and look for any evidence of suspicious activity. Over time, they learn what to look out for, becoming more independent every day. They take responsibility for the tasks entrusted to them, make their own decisions, and know that the head herder is relying on them. Wolfgang feels a real sense of propriety for all the animals in his care, and bringing them back down into the valley in good health is a matter close to his heart. A large part of the popular mountain tour around the Widderstein runs through the pastureland of the Alpe Bärgunt. Hikers who pass by can rest for a moment in front of the hut, enjoy the imposing views, and recharge their batteries with a drink, or yoghurt that Marion makes from the fresh milk. Marion, also more than happy to be outside herding, is responsible for the catering. This is a treat for the men on the Hochalp; even though the

kitchen is small and the utensils simple, every evening she conjures up a hearty meal to round off a strenuous day. Her Alpine tacos are a firm favourite. After their evening meal, Titus and Magnus help with the washing up. Sometimes they have a game of yahtzee, but mostly they’re so tired that when night falls they are more than happy to crawl under the covers. Weather permitting, they can also enjoy a quick dip in the Hochalpsee between rounds. It has to be a really hot summer though. Instead, in mid-August there is a short cold snap, a volatile situation for both the cattle and their herders. The snow soon melts again, but while it lasts the steep slopes can become dangerous slippery for the animals. It is at moment like this that the young herders benefit from Wolfgang's decades of experience. Cattle-driving, especially under such adverse conditions, has to be learnt, and the herders also need a good dose of intuition when choosing which path to take, and where to position themselves to drive the animals safely from one place to another. The cut-off date for the move back to the lower camp is August 24, St. Bartholomew’s Day, so on the penultimate Sunday in August, the entire team of helpers will once again meet up to drive the animals back to the Mittelalpe. The grand finale - the “Alpabtrieb” The summer holidays are drawing to a close. A week before they are due back at school,

Titus and Magnus return home and gradually start getting used to life in the valley again. After a long soak in the bath and some prolonged chilling on the sofa, their mothers decide that it’s high time for a visit to the barber. Wolfgang's Alpine beard, however, will survive at least until the “Alpabtrieb” (the day on which the cattle are driven back down the mountain) on 19 September. The cattle are now back grazing on the pastures near the Bärgunthütte. On the day before the Alpabtrieb, all the helpers gather together again. Their excitement about the upcoming ritual is palpable. It goes without saying that Magnus and Titus are also coming to the last major event of the Alpine summer, and will help to exchange the animals’ grazing clamps to the melodious sound of the clamp bells. The clamps belong to the herders and farmers. More than anything they are of sentimental value to their owners, but depending on their size and workmanship they can be worth up to 600 euros. Over the summer, the young herders have got to know each of the animals, and can now tell them apart by their outward appearance and individual characters. Tomorrow, the livestock belonging to 15 farmers will return to their own stalls. Shortly after sunrise the next day, they set off with the whole herd and drive them from the Bärgunthütte to

Scheidplatz in Riezlern, where the animals are separated and returned to their owners. Things have gone well right up to the last day, and Wolfgang is proud to be able to return every single animal to the farmers in good condition. Most of them have been entrusting their cattle to him for many years, and friendships have grown up, something he greatly appreciates. As all the animals are driven safely back down into the valley, the cattle procession is led by one elaborately decorated cow known as the “Kranzrind”. Because the Alpe Bärgunt herd runs to well over 200 animals, there are two Kranzrinde. It’s not just the cattle that are decked out for this special day, however; the herders also don their Sunday best to bid farewell to a successful Alpine summer after the last strenuous trek from Baad to Riezlern. As a thank you for their efforts, the young herders from the Alpe Bärgunt are given some pocket money and their own clamp, which is elaborately engraved with their name and the number of summers they have spent on the pasture. A valuable reminder of a summer that has given them countless experiences and memories, and that will probably accompany them throughout their lives. ■ Britta Maier, Photos: André Tappe

ALPABTRIEB THE GREAT ALPINE ENDOF-SUMMER FESTIVAL

Every year on 19 September, the livestock that have spent the summer on the pastures above are driven down to the valley to the Scheidplatz, where they are returned to their owners. Throughout the day, more than 600 young cattle, cows, goats and horses head down from the mountains and arrive at the Scheidplatz in Riezlern. The social programme is provided by a small farmers’ market with local produce, hearty live music and the Walser Buura and their products. KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 9

Eschbach

Gipfelstation

Fellhorn

Erlebnisweg Burmiwasser

Höfle-A. Kanzelwand-Hs. 1520

2039

Ob. Bierenwang-A. Station 1737 Schlappoldsee

Fel

Gottenried

nze

Gehrenspitze

1857

nb hor

Schlappoldkopf

Riezler-A. 1526

Ziegelbach

Kühberg

Naturfreunde-Hs. Loretto

Bergkristall

Oberstdorf

al rt se as

Gottesackerscharte

1967

Auen-H. 1275

Wäldele

tal hd Ma

Mahdtal-A. 1499

Höfle-A. 1190

Egg Mahdtal-Hs.

ta a rr

Innerschwende

kbah

Moorweiher

1953

Ife

Riezlern

Bergstüble

Unterwestegg 1240

Schrattenwang-A. Walser Ammanns-A. 1482 Älpele

Schönblick 1350

G o t t e s a c k e r

Ifen-H. 1586

Schneiderküren-A.

1706

Freibergsee

Station Seealpe 1280

2143

Naturbrücke

Naturerlebnisweg

Skiflugschanze

Golfplatz

Hahnenköpfle

1353

Café Walserblick

Söllereck Mittel-A. 1350

Hochleite 1185

2230

Melköde

Schlappold-A. 1710

Hoher Ifen

Ifersgunt-A. 1751

Obere Gottesackerwände

ahn

Söller-A. 1522

Schwand

Erdinger Arena

Außerschwende

Straußberg

Karatsbichl

Waldhaus

Wald

Klausenwald Gf.Hörnlepass 1159

ch Breita

Walserschanz

815 m

Hinterenge

Unteres Hörnle Ausserwald-A. 1165 Osterberg-A. 1268

kla m

Kornau

Bre itac h

Ganzjahresrodelbahn

Breitenberg

Zwingsteg

Geisalpsee 1509

Reute

Top tip for families

Dornach-A.

Jauchen

In the summer, families pay only for the first child (born 1999-2001) on the gondolas and Gais-A. 1149 chairlifts - all the other kids go free!

Hochstatt

Moos-A. 1211

Sessel-A.

h lac Stil

Tob elw Walmendingerhorn, On the Kanzelwand, eg Ifen, Söllereck and Fellhorn lifts, ALL children travel free.

Scheidthal-A. 1139

Wasach Tiefenbach

Rubi 788 m Langenwang

Reichenbach

When hiking, five gondolas and three chairlifts are at your disposal, with which you can reach the higher trails. All the mountain and middle stations offer huts or restaurants with sun terraces.

Rohrmoos

867 m

Gondolas & chairlifts

Laiter

Gruben

Ob. Walmendinger-A. 1560

Eberlehof

Faistenoy

Geißalphorn

1957

1122 m ber u

itac

2058

1752

Oyba ch

Erlebnisweg Uff d’r Alp

Bre

1086 m

Hintere Seealpe

1980

Rubihorn

Hirschegg

Burmi-Weg

1968

Dietersberg

din

Rohr

Schwaben-H.

Zwerenalp-H.

Schlappoldsee

Bierenwang-A. 1580

r ge

Sonna Alp 1420

rna Zafe

1949

Anatswald

ach Trett

alm

Hehlekopf

Gehrachsattel

Schwarzwasser-H. 1651

1990

a nb

Bergstation

Ringang

Geißfuß

Ob. Geisalpsee 1769

1982

Walmendinger Horn

1244 m

1910

1900

904

Baad

1215 m

1721

Alpenwald Stutz-A. 1478 Bühl-A. 1422

Mittelberg Bödmen

Kuhgehrenspitze

Adlerhorst

Schattenberg

Edmund Station Probst-Hs. Höfatsblick 1927

tal

Steinmannl

2-LänderSporklettersteig/ Walsersteig

2039

Innerer Stierhof 1678 Obere-Lüchle-A. 1760

2059

Koblat

Oytal

tel

Bernhard’sgemstel-A. 1310

nta

är

Bärgunt-H. 1407 Alpe Widderstein

l Flucht-A. Bergheim 1390 Wies-A. UntereInnereAlpe Kuhgehren 1298 1673

Kanzelwand

Kühgund-H. 1745

Oytal-Hs. 1009

1759

949 illa ch

Himmelschrofen

tt Christlessee

Untere Guten-A.

Birgsau

2224 Hindelanger Klettersteig

Gerstruben 1154

Nebelhorn

1114

al 1748

Ob. Lugen-A.

Riefenkopf Stuibenfall

Einödsbach

Spielmannsau 983

lde

Mittl.Spital-A. 1568

Oberau 1004

erec

Käser-A. 1400

Naturalpe-GemstelSchönesboden 1310

Hoch- Hammerspitze (AUT) 2170 gehrenspitze

Söll

Dietersbach-A. 1325

Vorderer1935

2083

Fiderepass-H. 2065

2177

Bärenkopf B

Ob.Gemstel-H. 1694 Hint.Gemstel-H. 1320

2252

Alpgundkopf

Zwölferkopf

Grünhorn

2092

2161

2236

2191

Hammerspitze (D) 2259

Güntlespitze

Älplespitz

Kl.Widderstein

2258

2272

Wildgundkopf

1959

Höfats

2301

2536

2224

atsg

Kegelkopf

2320

Enzian-H. 1780

lo ht

Hinterer1955

Schafalpenköpfe

2425

Rappensee H. 2091 Rappensee

2387

Kemptnerköpfle

eimer K l etterstei g M i n delh

Hochrappenkopf

2459

2084

Wildengundkopf 2235

Rappenseekopf Linkerskopf 2468

Elferkopf

Mindelheimer-H. 2058

undt

2376

Eissee

Thank you very much! Waltenberger Hs.

Kemptner-H. 1844

2599

2384

r r o nne W e g

2384

Biberkopf

Warm

2271

Kreuzeck

Heilb

Liechelkopf

Fürschießer www.respektiere-deine-grenzen.at

Rauheck

2595

2428

Widderstein Widderstein-H. 2009

We all have rights and responsibilities which must be observed to ensure the co-existence of people, animals, plants and the environment. We can only protect the natural diversity of the native plants and animals and ensure the safety of sports-and recreation seekers if everyone has the necessary “respect” for the needs of others. We ask you not to enter forested areas at dawn or at dusk so as not to disturb the wild animals which are active at these times. There is no need for animals to panic MädeleTrettach- gabel Gr.Krottenkopf Hohes Licht if we don’t “stray” - if we stay on our normal routes, we remain predictable for them. spitze 2651 2657 2645 Kratzer

▸ ▸ ▸ ▸ ▸ ▸ ▸ ▸

Walmendingerhornbahn Zaferna Sesselbahn Heuberg Sesselbahn Ifen Sesselbahn Kanzelwandbahn Söllereckbahn Fellhornbahn Nebelhornbahn

1.951m 06.05. - 05.11.17 1.420m 03.06. - 26.10.17 1.370m 25.05./03.06. - 29.10.17 1.600m Possibly no Summer operation 2017 1.957m 13.05. - 05.11.17 1.345m 29.04. - 05.11.17 1.975m 13.05. - 05.11.17 2.214m 20.05. - 05.11.17

Kanzelwandbahn

Walmendingerhornbahn

Zaferna Sesselbahn

Heuberg Sesselbahn KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 11

Rohrmoos

THE RIGHT MEASURE If you want to go your own way, you’ll need good shoes. One person who has beaten his own path is Johannes Rief. The 23-year-old is an orthopedic shoe technician. In his own Walser shoe workshop, he is keeping the ancient craft of shoemaking alive.

Ludwig Rief had the right idea in the right place at the right time. In the 60s and 70s, skiing exploded in Kleinwalsertal. Ski lifts were built, FIS races were held, and increasing numbers of guests were welcomed. Ludwig Rief saw a gap in the market, and converted his garage in Mittelberg into a sports shop. These days, you’d probably call it a start-up ...

A start-up with cutters and pliers good 50 years later, and another member of the Rief family is sitting in the same garage, working on a startup. Ludwig Rief’s grandson, Johannes Rief, also helps out in the family business, but his first priority takes him behind the sports shop - literally. Here, he has set up his own business in a small room beside the garage. You could be forgiven for thinking that today’s start-up entrepreneurs sit behind screens and programme their way to wealth. But in Mittelberg, 23-year-old Johannes’s world is

not a digital one; it is very real. You won’t find a computer here, or a hard drive, bits, chips, or iPads. Instead, you’ll find blades and pliers, hammers and tongs, punches and stamps. Johannes is no app developer; he’s a shoemaker. To be more precise, he’s an orthopedic shoe technician, and has dedicated himself to the art of traditional shoemaking. This Kleinwalsertal native repairs old footwear, works on special products for people with foot problems, and builds custom Haferl shoes to prepare for his next major milestone, his certification as a master craftsman. KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 13

„

Change in direction John had a different path in mind. As an 18year-old fresh out of secondary school, he was not interested in joining the family business. A talented multi-sports enthusiast who spends his winters on skis and his summers hiking or biking in the mountains, the last thing he wanted was to become involved with the sports shop. “I was in no doubt: I wanted to be a teacher,” says Johannes. “All the decisions were made, and everything was already in motion.” And then? Then, he talked to his father Silvester again, who brought up the idea of him becoming an orthopedic shoe technician. At Sport Rief, the topic of custom-made shoes has long been on the table, especially in the area of ski boots. “To be honest, I thought it sounded anything but attractive. More like a boring, medical thing”, says Johannes, running his hand through his hair. But he agreed to visit a specialist in Innsbruck to give it a try. Why? “I don’t know. I have always had great respect for tradition, and over time I realised what my family has built up. I wanted to at least have a look.” Virtuosos and shrinks And then, the unexpected happened: Johannes took on the job. He discarded his plans to train as a teacher, and instead spent four years in the Tyrolean state capital learning his craft. After this, he spent time with a renowned orthopedic shoe technician in Bavaria, before setting up his own workshop in Mittelberg. “The work is incredibly fascinating and varied. Good shoe craftsmen are virtuosos.” After a pause, he adds: “And

“I was in no doubt: I wanted to be a teacher. All the decisions were made, and everything was already in motion.” Johannes Rief

orthopedic boot technicians are shrinks”. He knows that the path he has chosen for himself is a difficult one. He wants to cultivate both the craft side and the medical side of his profession. He wants to craft unique designs for shoe lovers, as well as creating tailored health solutions. “People suffering from painful and unpleasant problems come to see me. Feet are an intimate part of the body. Many people feel uncomfortable, and find it difficult to open up”. For Johannes, his conversations with customers are more than a quick decision on footwear, or the delivery of a doctor’s prescription. He sees his task holistically: “I don’t just look at the foot; we talk about everyday life and other problems too. Where does pulling in the pelvis come from? In what way, and how much do you move? You can’t just follow Pattern F; you have to deal with each person as an individual - and that's what I love about my job.” Made-to-measure evaluations It quickly becomes obvious that Johannes is a very sociable person. He is a very attentive listener, and asks questions with interest. I soon see that he draws great satisfaction from relieving people of pain, and from making that favourite pair of shoes fit for service again. Preservation of tradition is also important to Johannes: “I don’t want the craft to die out. On the contrary, people should see how much commitment and dedication this job takes, and learn to appreciate it”. Johannes may be young, but he is very reflective. “My main aim is to stop people asking: ‘Why does it cost so much?’, get them to accept

the value of the work, and just be happy.” A pair of handmade shoes can easily cost 1,000 Euros. But you’re wearing a one-off, tailor-made pair of shoes. “And to be honest: you spend 10 hours a day on your feet, and you’re going to sling on a pair of 15 euro shoes from a discount chain?” Johannes firmly believes that there are enough people

who are not satisfied with this state of affairs. Thus, this young man with the twisted moustache (“my trademark”) stands among his machines. He has been collecting them for years: antique sewing machines, the grinding machine and, of course, all his sacred tools. “It’s like a chef and his knives.” At the end of his apprenticeship, Johannes’ test piece was a Haferl shoe: double-stitched with a hidden double seam – “something a little bit special”, he says. “You don’t get a precision finish like that with machine-manufactured Haferl shoes. You can see it immediately”, he explains. Each stage of manufacturing takes time. And it should take even more. In Bavaria, Johannes tells me, hand-sewing has even been dropped from the training programme. Preservation with movement Johannes’ approach to his traditional craft, however, is far from being retrogressively sentimental. “No, not at all. Standing still is dangerous. I need movement, otherwise I couldn’t do it”. Johannes isn’t just referring to his eagerness to learn about his chosen career. He generally has a strong urge to move. He is probably one of the best athletes in the valley. On his mountain bike, he scales the peaks with ease, and hurls himself down descents where others climb with caution. In the winter, he spends as much time as possible on skis - primarily off-piste - and is also involved in children’s freeskiing (“to get kids

away from their consoles and onto the snow” - there speaks the (would-be) teacher...). He is not only a talented athlete, but ambitious too, isn’t he? Johannes nods hesitantly: “Yes, I am. Whatever I do, I give it 110%. I’m not into half measures. I've always been like that. Always a little bit more extreme. I don’t really accept phrases like “That’s as far as we can go.” He describes himself as stubborn, a bit rebellious - and yet, as someone who is very conscious of harmony. This seems slightly contradictory at first. But it very much suits this young, modern guy, struggling to update an ancient tradition. This cosmopolitan, open-minded person, who nonetheless never considered leaving his homeland. To Johannes, there is no contradiction in this. Tradition of openness “It may sound dull, but I can’t imagine anywhere more beautiful than Kleinwalsertal. I can lead a fulfilled life here because it has everything. What’s everything? “Mountains, peace, quality of life in general. For me, tradition doesn’t have to be old-fashioned. It’s nothing to do with narrow-minded, parochial thinking, where the people in the next hamlet are already regarded as suspicious foreigners. That’s nonsense. For me, tradition is also strongly influenced by openness and curiosity. Having such a strong urge to move, I have to ask Johannes if he can imagine doing this job all his life. “That’s exactly the question I asked myself during my apprenticeship.

The answer: Yes. But in my own way.” And thus Johannes walks in the footsteps of his father and grandfather, while simultaneously beating his own individual “new” old path. He is a unique being who loves to create unique pieces. ■ Sissi Pärsch, Photos Oliver Farys

Workshop tour:

www.kleinwalsertal.com/sommernuus In his workshop (JR Schuhwerkstatt), Johannes repairs every kind of footwear and makes supportive inserts, as well as being a specialist ski boot fitter. After achieving certification as a master craftsman, he wants to make as many of his “own” shoes as possible. More at:

www.jr-schuhwerkstatt.at KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 15

HAPPINESS . . . “Happiness is like the earth, containing everything that we are ... Happiness is our fifth element, and happiness begins at the right moment ...”, according the lyrics of Berlin singer/songwriting duo “Berge” (translation: “Mountains”). Our author experienced moments of happiness just like these on her circuit tour of the Große Widderstein. A report on happiness ...

n the way to the car park in Baad (1250m), I rub the last traces of sleep out of my eyes, and nibble on a muesli bar. Over the next seven hours, I will climb good 1000 metres uphill and then down again, over a route of approximately 18 kilometres. I briefly think back to the last time I tackled such a long hike as I scoff yet another high-performance super-energy bar - more is better, at least for the psyche. Just get on with it, I think, and that’s what I do. I cover the first 200 metre climb up a pleasant slope to the Bärguntbach and the hut of the same name. After a good 20 minutes, I arrive at the farm and start to feel more lively. After all, it’s still only 6.30 am. I am greeted by a cheerful “Guata Morga”. I can hear some cows mooing, and a young bull calf looks at me curiously. Girl power on the Bärgunthütte, 1408 m “Good morning,” I reply, smiling back at the beaming countenance in front of me. The radiant face opposite me belongs to Sabine, the farm’s herder and landlady of the "Bärgunt". She asks what I am doing here so early. “I want to do the Widderstein circuit while it’s quiet, and enjoy the morning silence a bit,” I explain. “Ah, great, it’s going to be a lovely day today”, says Sabine. The three-day-old bull calf nods his assent from his stall. We look around and smile at so much young life. “This is Freddy, who’s eating me out of house and home”, Sabine informs me, holding her hand up for him to suck, as his milk bucket is empty again. We chat a bit about Freddy’s wonderful birth, the weather, the farm, and if I have any space in my backpack, as up on the Hochalpe Bärgunt they could do with a new yoghurt bucket, a bit of curd soap, and medicine (a cow has injured itself on the ascent to the Hochalp). Of course I have space - I push my change of clothes further down, and wait for my cargo. In the meantime, I look over at the "girls" in the stalls - they are spotless, and the milking is almost over - the only thing that remains is a relaxing day on the pasture. A few moments later, I repack my backpack, we say goodbye, and I move on. On the trail of the Walser towards the Hochalppass I progress up a pleasant incline in wide sweeps. On my left, the “Große Widderstein” watches over me, offering the occasional mystical moment when the fog parts and I catch a glimpse of the rock faces. It rained heavily last night, but just a few hours later

the only hints that remain are the wet grass and the odd patch of mist, otherwise it’s pure sunshine. . . My path leads me over lush meadows in bloom. The houses in the valley below get smaller and smaller, and soon I dive into a completely different world. I let myself drift, and enjoy the feeling. After about an hour, I'm almost at the height of the pass, and from there it’s a barely perceptible slope up to the saddle of the Hochalppass. This is where the young cattle graze in the first weeks of summer, before the cow caravan heads up to the Hochalphütte with its broad pastures at the end of July - and where the short Alpine summer reaches its peak. I pass the foundation stones of a hut; the former Hochalp, as I later learn. It was torn away by an avalanche in the 1960s, and was later rebuilt in its current location a bit further up the hill, out of the way of avalanches. About half an hour later, I reach the Hochalppass at an altitude of 1938 metres. The views, and the beauty of the landscape take my breath away; happiness hormones surge through my body. The valley opens up before me, offering views of lush green meadows, still damp from the rain, sparkling in the sun like emerald carpets. The young cattle wander proudly over the meadows, enjoying a morning snack. To the right of me is the Hochalp, behind which sits enthroned the immense mass of the Große Widderstein. The first settlers in the region crossed the Hochalppass to enter the valley in the 13th century. Political and economic reasons led some Valais families to leave their homeland. They crossed the Hochalppass into the hitherto uninhabited Breitachtal, which at that time belonged to the Baron of Rettenberg. He allowed the Walser to clear the area and settle there. Until this time, it had been used for hunting only. The valleys also owes its name to these Swiss immigrants. Young mountain savages: Titus, Magnus & friends Around 8.30 am, I reach the Alpine hut and peer curiously through the window. It’s breakfast time here; the young Alpine herders are sitting around a large table and eating hungrily. Their day began early, and they have been working hard. After breakfast, we head to see the young cattle on the pastures. The young “chief herders” are: Titus and Magnus, 11 and 12 years young, yet they are already old hands as far as the pastoral life is concerned. This is Titus’ fourth summer in the mountains! Like Magnus, he loves the simple Alpine lifestyle that both of them enjoy from mid-July to mid-September. Two

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 17

as if the lake was their own personal Kneipp pool.

Widdersteinhütte - Multicultural hikers’ meeting point We say goodbye - the guys look to the right through binoculars, while I peer towards the Widdersteinhütte. At an altitude of 2015 metres, it’s the highest point on my route, and also the halfway mark. My path leads gently uphill and downhill past some curious Haflinger horses, also spending their summer on the mountain. Hikers from all points of the compass meet at the Widdersteinhütte, as this private shelter can be reached from Warth, the Hochtannbergpass, the Hochalppass and the Gemstelpass. After a gruelling summit tour, climbers of the Große Widderstein also like to enjoy a refreshing drink on the terrace. Tour half-time: the Gemsteltal awaits A few minutes later, I reach the Gemstelpass (1972 m), and look at the steep serpentine curves leading towards the Obere Gemstelape at 1694 m. Concentrating hard and leaning slightly forward, I start my descent. It’s noon already. I sit down on a large stone, stretch out my legs, and sample the contents of my lunchbox. I can’t wait until I reach the

the process. As a small thank you, Marion places a cup of hot elderberry syrup on the table in front of me. I drink, and let the landscape work its magic on me. The rhythmic sound of the cow bells sets the pace, my heart beats in “three-quarter-bell” time. Michael Bublé’s “I'm feeling good” comes to mind: “Birds flying high, you know how I feel. Sun in the sky, you know how I feel ... It’s a new day, it´s a new life for me. And I’m feeling good ...”

rites are soon by their sides, allowing the boys to scratch them fondly between the horns. I ask if they know all the cattle: of course, they say, still scratching. It happened

“Happiness is like the wind, and happiness is the freedom to be just as we really are ...” (Berge/Glück)

other young guys, Simon and Martin, are sitting at the table; they help the two chief herders. This Alpine crew is completed by Marion; she keeps the boys right and does all the cooking. Today, Sabine's brother Wolfgang is also “up top” - as “Alpmeister” of one of the Walsertal’s oldest (over 500 years old) and largest herds (about 250 head of young cattle), it is his job to oversee the people and livestock on the mountain. I proudly surrender my cargo, making the boys very happy in

Cattle gangs and Kneipp pools for cows Meanwhile, the team of herders has gathered before me - their day of herding is about to begin. I ask if I can accompany them for a bit, as we are heading in the same direction. Of course I can. We walk together along the path towards Hochalpsee and the Widdersteinhütte. The boys know the young cattle, and obviously feel affection for them. Their favou-

quite quickly; all of a sudden the cattle looked different to them, and they could see the individual characters. On top of this, Simon tells me that the young cattle don’t leave the safety of their “barn herd”. They are happy together in groups, and their positioning is far from arbitrary; on the contrary, it is almost Prussian in its ordering by barn and farmer. Of course, there are also exceptions to the rule! A little further on, the boys draw my attention to the Hochalpsee. Situated slightly below us, the water has a beautiful dark greenish-blue tinge. The cows are standing in and around the water, letting it lap over them, just

Gemstelalpe, mainly because my injured knee is demanding a break. Fortified and somewhat rested, I continue my descent. I can’t see the Obere Gemstelalpe, but the cattle and their bells audibly show me the way. A slight shiver creeps down my spine, so impressive is the sound of bells. I pass the farm, and my path leads me into an impressive gorge. I continue along a steep descent towards the Hintere Gemstelalpe at 1320 metres. That’s the steepest part done - now I join a wide path which leads me further down the valley. Families with all-terrain strollers come into view. The babies sleep, or look around at the impressive landscapes with large, inquisitive eyes. I turn around and say goodbye to my faithful companion, the Große Widderstein. Over the last few hours, it has been the source of some powerful, magnificent and mystical moments. And it’s certainly stimulated my production of the happiness hormone. I continue along my way, following the course of the Gemstelbach to Innerbödmen. From here, it’s just another 1.5 kilometres to Baad. The road is flat, ideal for winding down and thinking back over my tour: ■ Susa Schreiner, Photos: André Tappe

TOUR DESCRIPTION “Get to know yourself” tour around the Widderstein Tour Length: Duration: Change in altitude:

approx. 15,6 km 7 to 8 hours

Difficulty:

medium

app. 990 m uphill und 990 m downhill

STOP-OFF OPTIONS:

Alpe Widderstein, Bärgunthütte, Widdersteinhütte, Obere Gemstelhütte, Hintere Gemstelhütte, Naturalpe Gemstel Schönesboden, Bernhards Gemstelalpe

The classic: Tour of the Widderstein

“Happiness... Happiness is like water, it flows through the whole world. And happiness ... Happiness is like the earth, containing everything that we are ... Happiness is our fifth element, and happiness begins at the right moment ...” (Berge/Glück)

Under safe guidance, complete a circuit of one of Kleinwalsertal’s most famous mountains, and learn many interesting things about the region and its botany. This is a challenging tour, even although it doesn’t reach the summit of the Widderstein. Every Thursday at 9:00 am, approx. 7 hours, € 25 adults, € 10 children (children aged 9+, must be accompanied by an adult.)

From 18 May to 2 November 2017

www.kleinwalsertal.com/webshop

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 19

Hiking in Kleinwalsertal Walking, hiking, mountaineering, climbing, running, Nordic walking, canyoning . . . the hiking region of Kleinwalsertal is exceptionally versatile and varied Round every corner, there is another valley to explore, a new mountain to discover, a completely different face of the region to enjoy. The panoramic views are tremendous - and not just from from the summit. Even on the mountain trails, at altitudes from 1,300m to 1,500m, the scenery is impressive. So it doesn’t matter whether you opt for a pleasant hike and “only” traverse the gentle routes into the side valleys or along the high-altitude trails - many of which are accessible with prams - or whether you reach the mountain station, or even the summit - here, there are no limits. Climbers get their money’s worth on our climbing mountains, in our climbing and high ropes course, and on our four via ferrata. The

Kanzelwand adventure trail is even suitable for children (age 8+). Routes usually start on your doorstep and if necessary, you can shorten the distance with the Walserbus, which is included with your guest card. Once you are on the trails, approximately 40 huts, dairies and mountain restaurants, as well as a good 300 “Bööchle” (benches) invite you to stop off, relax and enjoy. Eight gondolas and chairlifts make child’s play of the ascents, even with prams. Whether it’s a summit experience, a sunrise tour or a stroll along the water, with a network of hiking trails stretching over 185 km - including Oberstdorf, this rises to over 400 km - in three climate zones and altitudes of 1,000m to 2,536 m, Kleinwalsertal has much to offer!

MOUNTAIN

We know what it means to be in the mountains. Experience unique moments, inhale nature and come with us on a mountain adventure. The team of the Kleinwalsertal mountain school will accompany you on some of the most impressive tours in the Alps.

from € 122 ,-

Hiking without boundaries

Book the endless variety of the Walser mountain world - whether with Alpine roses in the spring, for a mountain summer or in the golden autumn - including your desired accommodation and a lift ticket for all gondolas and chairlifts in Kleinwalsertal and Oberstdorf. Offer valid from 13 May to 31 October 2017, including:

“Walser Omgang” vital routes & nature experience spots Come back to yourself, break out of the cage of your own thoughts, and return with renewed energy from your holidays. The eight vital Walser Omgang routes, and the Nature Experience spots in Kleinwalsertal offer something for the body and mind alike. th: Regenerating pa

d unwind ideal to relax an

Activating path:

ideal for stimulating your body

Balancing

• Overnight stays in your holiday apartment, guest house or hotel of choice

path:

a mixture o f both, with activating and regene rating stretc hes

• Lift ticket for all 8 gondolas and chairlifts in Kleinwalsertal and Oberstdorf

www.kleinwalsertal.com/webshop

ADVENTURE

Walserstraße 262 Kleinwalsertal / 6992 Hirschegg Phone: +43 5517 30245

Book a Lebensfeuer health check, and find out which impulse is best suited to you through a heart rate variability

(HRV) measurement and analysis.

www.kleinwalsertal.com

Find your personal adventure at WWW.BERGSCHULE.AT KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 21

MARMOT FAMILY CAMP

he felt safe, he was even happy to climb unsecured. In fact, the biggest hurdle for children is dealing with the rope and harness, and trusting them.

My daughter felt more secure on the via ferrata practice route. “Mummy, leave it! I have to concentrate”, she waved away my attempts to take a photo as she placed one carabiner after another. She was right. It was just a shame that the via ferrata ended at the exact spot where the kids had to abseil down again. And here began the battle between “I definitely want to” and “I’m too scared”, a battle that demanded a lot from my little girl, and which she eventually lost, albeit reluctantly. Maybe next time. It was a perfect introduction to rock climbing.

Small people are a big deal in Kleinwalsertal

y kids have probably never experienced the mountains in such an exciting way! Tents - they love them anywhere. Camping with other families and

children? Even better. And then rock climbing for the first time, practically without having to hike? The Marmot Family Camp in Kleinwalsertal will remain in their memories for a long time. And that’s far from all that made the three days in May so interesting. But let’s go back to the beginning.

The next day, the children were given a short introduction to survival training. On a short hike through the wilderness to a secluded spot on the river, they learned that you can survive without chips and pizza, clover tastes quite nice, and that a fire and a roof over your head are the most important thing, even if it’s not the roof of a four-star children’s hotel. It’s very interesting to find out how many plants on the path verges are edible! And did you know that dandelion seeds are an excellent way to light a fire? We diligently collected dry grass and twigs to use as kindling, and when we arrived at the river we built the perfect campfire, baked French bread, and carved a bow and arrow.

The Family Camp in Kleinwalsertal, co-organised and sponsored by Marmot and Outdoor magazine, took place for the first time in 2016. One bonus of the camp is that the Marmot tents are already set up in rows before you arrive, and top-quality sleeping bags and sleeping mats are also available to hire. No bulky luggage for four, no annoying setting up of tents in the presence of impatient children - this is already something worth celebrating. And the scenery is to die for. Located almost at the end of Kleinwalsertal, the beautiful Vorderboden campsite is right on the Breitach, which further down the valley flows into the famous gorge of the same name. Our tents overlooked the Widderstein (2533 m) and the Hochgehrenspitze (2251 m). Kleinwalsertal is that corner of Austria which the Austrians themselves say must always have been Austrian, even though, or perhaps precisely because, it cannot be reached by car from elsewhere in Austria, but only via Germany. More like a German cul-de-sac with Austrian special status. The cosy giant teepee

played host to the families morning and evening. We waited there for the evening thunderstorm before creeping away in the rain. The next day, climbing was on the agenda. In the climbing garden, the patient guides from the Bergschule Kleinwalsertal got cracking straight away. Presumably they thought that a bit of adrenaline was exactly what the children needed to wake them up. Abseiling was the first activity on the list. An incredulous “From up here?”, and a volley of uncertain glances travelled through the ring of 7- to 8-

year-olds. These young newcomers were definitely too young and inexperienced to leap head-first into such an adventure.

So we just took things slowly. Parents were shown how to put on the safety harness, and children were roped in - and one route or another was tried, depending on how daring the little ones were feeling. And then came the joy of climbing. Even our four-year-old, initially sceptical, was soon won over by the joys of rope-secured climbing. In the parts where

Incidentally, we were in illustrious company: Peter Sürth, Germany’s best-known wolf expert, was there with his dog. The children had already elected him as their hero the night before, after he held a presentation about wolves, lynx and bears in the giant teepee. The kids were blown away by his photos, fluctuating between complete fascination and great amusement, whether because of the bear shot in its behind with a tranquillizer dart so a tracking device could be placed around its neck, or because of the sweet baby lynx cub that simply did not want to be weighed and kept escaping. The stars of the evening were the brown bear cubs playing on a slide. And then Peter howled like a wolf, and all the children howled back. It was the perfect evening, although back in our tent my youngest did anxiously ask me if there were any wolves around here... Without a doubt, Peter Sürth is an asset to any wildlife educational event with children, and is much in demand for school events. His mission: the creation of a wildlife habitat - where people are only allowed to enter with special clearance. At the end, they all sat around the campfire. And while the boys succumbed to the fasci-

nation of fire, the girls enjoyed the freedom of the campsite. “I'd like to come back here”, was my son’s unwavering conclusion. And coming from him, that says a lot. The Vorderboden campsite is also worth a recommendation for its location alone. ■ Text: Ute Watzl (www.zwerg-am-berg.de), Photos: Wolfgang Ehn

from 2 to 5 June 2017

www.kleinwalsertal.com/webshop

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 23

WE HAVE TIME Pushchair walks in Gemsteltal

“The adventure begins on the verges of the path. Countless times we stop and linger, admiring nature’s works of art large and small”

iking with pushchairs? There’s no doubt about it; the side valleys and high trails in Kleinwalsertal offer a wide range of popular routes which are easily accessible with buggies. But do our mini hikers also get their money’s worth? We tested one of the paths. Our team: Elias (2) and Emmi (4) with their mum Moni, and Josefine (2 1/2) with me, her aunt. Our destination: the Gemsteltal, at the foot of the Widderstein. Our equipment: time, lots of time. Emmi and Elias’ repurposed double all-terrain stroller with bicycle trailer attachment, and Josefine’s off-road buggy. And, of course, a cou-

ple of snacks for stopping off along the way. According to the route description, it’s an easy circular trail over 5.3 km with a 162 m change in altitude. Usually, the guide says, it takes about 2 hours. The guide isn’t reckoning on doing it with children. We adjust to the pace of the little ones. A destination provides motivation, of course, but it quickly becomes clear to us: the journey is our destination. We stop when they stop, and change our perspective to discover Gemsteltal through their eyes. It is the first real autumnal morning in September. The sky is bright blue, the air wonderfully clear, and the light has added a soft

focus to the shapes and colours of the landscape. The sun's rays are already pleasantly warm when we leave the car park in Bödmen at 10 am. If you leave your car here, you can catch the Walserbus line 1 up to the “Gemse” bus stop (free with your AllgäuWalser Card). Emmi runs confidently ahead, while at first Josefine and Elias hang back. For a short time we follow the course of the Breitach, before leaving the valley axis and turning towards Gemsteltal. When you’re pushing a stroller, you will notice that supposedly easy hiking trails often aren’t really that easy. So the path to Gemsteltal also includes fitness training for adults. After a small team mee-

ting on Gemstelboden, Emmi is able to win Josefine over as a hiking companion. From this point on, the two girls motivate each other - sometimes running, sometimes hopping, sometimes climbing, sometimes strolling dreamily, sometimes chattering excitedly, and always with an amazed curiosity. We opt for the path along the Gemstelbach, and pass through a refreshing forest. The adventure begins on the verges of the path. Countless times we stop and linger, admiring nature’s works of art large and small. The ancient sycamore, long known as a natural monument, was badly affected by wind and inclement weather in the spring.

Now its hollow, misshapen trunk has given into gravity, and is being slowly consumed back into the natural cycle. Dense roots, ferns and trees offer plenty of hiding places for our two elves, Emmi and Josefine. And naturally, we are also on the lookout for animals. Emmi tell us that the mountains are home to chamois and ibex - and of course, “Burmi”, the children’s favourite Kleinwalsertal marmot. The first thing we find, however, is an anthill; Elias also gets out to observe the hustle and bustle of these tiny forest workers. We take our time to savour the largest and most beautiful playground in the world nature. We collect moss and branches for KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 25

games and craftwork at home, and let the sounds and smells wash over us. As we slowly move out of the forest into open meadows, we meet our first cows. The Hintere Gemstelhütte is our supposed destination, but we simply wander from one

nation, the Hintere Gemstelhütte (1,320 m), approximately 2.5 hours after starting out from Bödmen. As well as bicycles, there are a few other buggies parked in front of the cabin, and the playground with water channels, sandpit and swings is a hive of activity.

terrain mountain buggy’s handbrake and lockable front wheel. With two sleeping children and just one short break to build a final pebble figure, the way back is noticeably shorter. After just an hour’s walk or so, we are back at the starting point. It’s half past two. Our conclusion: Gemsteltal is a paradise for children and adults alike. After a short walk, and without having to take a chair lift, you find yourself surrounded by an impressive mountain backdrop. There is so much for children to discover; streams and parched riverbeds to play in, woods to hide in, cows and rustic huts to provide a slice of Alpine life. A trip that you should definitely leave plenty of time for. ■ Text and Photos: Britta Maier

Burmi’s adventure holidays

Genuine, exciting mountain experiences for children and families during the school holidays from 5 June to 10 September, and 2 October to 3 November 2017. Here, everything revolves around discovering the unique Walser mountains and spending time with the family - supervised by professional mountain guides and wilderness educators. MON Climbing adventure on the rocks A cool experience for Alpine dwarfs! Climbing and abseiling on the rock wall in the natural climbing garden - supervised and led by professional mountain guides from the Bergschule. Thrills guaranteed!

MON Rope safety: Via ferrata taster course This is about proper safety equipment and the correct behaviour in the mountains. The best preparation for the via ferrata.

moment to the next. The mood of our smallest hikers can change in a heartbeat. It’s a good job there are so many distractions, and of course there has to be a clear division of responsibilities; who gets to open and close the cattle gates dotting our route. The girls enter into a heated debate as to whether the fence posts are electrified or not. Before we know it, Elias has put their question to the test, luckily to find out that they aren’t. After an hour, it's about time for our first break. Although we've covered only a small part of the trail, we are surrounded by majestic peaks and already feel like real mountaineers. A snack recharges our batteries and, feeling highly motivated, we move on. The playground at Berhards Gemstelalp (1,310 m) hoves into view, and Emmi and Josefine’s leisurely hike briefly turns into a race. While the kids test out the small but excellent playground, Moni and I take the opportunity to enjoy a coffee overlooking the Elfer, Zwölfer and Geißhorn mountains. It's almost noon when we slowly resume our hike. Along the way, the dried-up bed of a stream lends itself to building figures out of pebbles, while the mountain meadows are full of colourful flowers and grasses to touch and smell. Around 12.30 pm, we finally reach our desti-

First of all, our trio observes the scene in front of them. Tentatively at first, they exchange words with the other children, but it’s not long before new friendships are forged, and they each dedicate themselves to their favourite activity. As far as the food goes, we all get our money’s worth. We put together a small buffet, and it quickly becomes clear that the children are firm fans of the Walser Wienerle, Moni prefers yoghurt with fresh blueberries, while my personal favourite is the apple strudel. One last time, Emmi and Josefine get to feel like Heidi on the swing, before we head off on the route home. The two girls are now happy to climb gratefully into their own personal transport. We follow the Gemstelbach back along the other side of the valley, but before we even reach the fork in the path, everything is suspiciously quiet in one of the pushchairs. Replete with new sensations, full tummies, and a feeling of satisfaction, Elias and Josefine are already fast asleep. We make a short final stop at the Naturalpe Gemstel-Schönesboden, where Emmi gets a souvenir for her papa, (a delicious hunk of smoked meat), before allowing her mama to push her the rest of the way down the valley. On the gravel path, I am grateful for my all-

TOUR DESCRIPTION Tour Length: circular route: Difference in altitude: Difficulty:

approx. 5,3 km 2 hours approx. 162 m uphill and 162 m downhill easy

STOP-OFF OPTIONS:

Bernhards Gemstelalpe, Hintere Gemstelhütte, Naturalp Gemstel Schönesboden - all three have playgrounds

BUGGY RENTAL STATIONS:

Pushing is easier if your have an all-terrain stroller with big wheels. You can rent a mountain buggy from Sport Kessler and Sport Rief in Riezlern (Sport Rief also has a branch in Mittelberg), and Sport Pauli in Hirschegg.

TUES Big mountain adventures for families A day filled with adventures: climbing in the climbing garden, crossing the river on a rope bridge, flying foxes and abseiling from dizzying height of up to 40 metres. An experience you won’t forget in a hurry!

TUES The herb goblins Can you eat nettles? Are daisies medicine? Spend an exciting afternoon in the wonderful world of herbs with trained herbal expert Susanne. Learn which plants are edible, which herbs grow on the verges of the path, and help to prepare herbal salts, oils, balms, etc. WED Creative nature workshop Nature provides us with the materials for a creative afternoon. We go out and gather natural materials for carving, felting, and building arches or mini houses for dwarfs. WED Trip to the dairy How does milk get to the bottle, how do you put the holes in the cheese? Learn more about the Alpine way of life on our journey to Bärgunttal. And with our dairy quiz, you can test your new knowledge straight away.

THUR Flying foxes The children “fly” at high speed on rollers over a tightrope through the Schwarzwasserbach canyon. It might sound dangerous, but the presence of professionals and the use of climbing harnesses ensures that this exciting adventure is risk-free.

THUR Bike Trails 4 Youngsters The bike course lasts all morning. Experienced guides give away their tricks, such as jumps, wheelies and much more. In addition, kids can improve their riding technique and overall control! Mountain bikes available for hire. . FRI Wild water tour A special, refreshing water adventure awaits all explorers of the Breitach. Clear water from the mountains - so simple and yet so fascinating! Explore this versatile element on a hike along the Breitach to Waldhaus. A “roaring” experience, and keep an eye out for the “stone men”!

THUR & FRI Wilderness days Play and explore in nature! We make a selection from the treasure trove of opportunities offered by Mother Nature. For example, kids build shelters, light campfires without using lighters or matches, make tools and practice tracking. Getting on their www.kleinwalsertal.com/webshop camouflage gear and practising their stalking is a particular hit with the kids. But beware, it gets dirty! Don’t forget swimming things and a towel. In July and August, there are special family wilderness days. KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 27

“GENUSS” IS IN THE DETAIL Kleinwalsertal’s “Genuss” huts

“No pleasure is fleeting; because the impression it leaves behind is permanent.” Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

hat was your last moment of “Genuss”, or pleasure? What feelings and sensations did it leave behind? Without a doubt, pleasure is something very personal. Perhaps it's a walk in nature, breathing deeply and filling your lungs with fresh, clear mountain air. Perhaps it’s having time to enjoy a good meal alone, or with family and friends. For some, pleasure is an exclusively culinary matter, while for others it goes beyond the pure taste experience. In Kleinwalsertal you will find select Alpine huts where your hosts know how to create experiences that appeal to all senses. In ad-

dition, there are six huts which in culinary terms fulfil all the criteria of the “GenussRegion Austria”. Their menus primarily contain regional and seasonal dishes and beverages from the “Kleinwalsertal Game and Beef GenussRegion”, as well as products from other Austrian GenussRegions. Awaiting visitors at each of the huts are entirely individual and unforgettable moments of “Genuss”, because each of the mountain hosts have their own ideas when it comes to pleasure. BÄRGUNTHÜTTE Since 1992, Sabine Ott has been running the

Bärgunthütte, while her brother Wolfgang is responsible for the dairy associated with it.

With more than 200 head of cattle, the Alpe Bärgunt is the largest in the valley. Situated at an altitude of 1,408 metres, the hut is at

the highest point of the circular hiking trail from Baad and leading through the Bärgunttal. It’s also a popular stopping-off point for hikers descending from longer tours through the Bärgunttal. Open in both summer and winter, it is the only “Genuss” hut in Kleinwalsertal which can be visited all year round. Anyone reaching the terrace bedecked with bright yellow umbrellas and several picnic tables is welcomed with a warm Hello. Sabine seems to know a lot of the guests. A casual greeting, and newcomers are quickly invited to join in the lively banter doing the rounds of the tables. For Sabine one of the key in-

gredients of “Genuss”: community. “Good, down-to-earth home cooking in good company, in a place where you can relax and unwind, that’s “Genuss” for me”, she summarises. As well as the sausage and meat specialities from the GenussRegion Kleinwalsertal, don’t miss out on trying one of the home-made cakes, especially the delicious apple pie or cheesecake. www.baergunthuette.at ALPE WIDDERSTEIN Enjoying an idyllic location at the foot of the Kleine Widderstein and at an altitude of

1,376 metres, the Alpe Widderstein is more low-key. It lies on the circular route through the Bärgunttal, and is a popular destination for hikers and bikers, as well as mountaineers and climbers returning from one of the KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 29

many local tours around the Große and Kleine Widderstein. In the background, a small stream gurgles, while colourful flowers and solid wooden tables and benches create a small oasis which invites you to linger. About 10 years ago, Tini and Tom Egger took over the former family business, and lovingly renovated this 350year-old mountain jewel. Tradition meets modernity - the hut’s original features were preserved, yet sensitively infused with a fresh vitality. You get the feeling that for Tini and Tom, “Genuss” is a lot to do with atmosphere. “To be able to enjoy yourself, you have to feel comfortable. The food is important of course, but so is the ambience”, says Tini, who places great emphasis on details. On example of this is her own handwriting, which gives a unique charm to the boards in front of the hut, and which can also be found on everything from the lovingly decorated snack boards to the teas made from mountain flowers and herbs she has collected herself. Other specialities at the Alpe Widderstein include the homemade cakes and the hearty “Knödel”, or dumplings. www.alpe-widderstein.at ALPE STIERHOF At 1,678 metres, the Alpe Stierhof is the highest “Genuss” hut in Kleinwalsertal. At 22, Steffi Feurstein is probably also one of the valley’s youngest hosts. Having grown up on her parents’ farm, and with several years of experience in the hospitality industry under her belt, she is well prepared for the tasks and challenges of living in the mountains and managing her hut. In the summer, she has 120 cattle, four heifers and a few calves, as

well as a handful of goats and horses under her care. Her boyfriend Julian helps her with the herding and milking. Steffi makes some of the fresh milk produced by the dairy straight into yoghurt and cream cheese.

For Steffi, “Genuss” is her simple lifestyle on the mountain. She gets to do the things she loves most - work with animals, be a host; and sometimes she even finds time for a hike on one of the nearby peaks. In addition to amazing views, Steffi’s small mountain hut mainly offers savoury snacks using produce from her parents’ farm. One such highlight is the raclette bread, which owes its unique taste not only to the Bergkäse cheese cured for 6 months, but also to its preparation in the old wood stove. Several paths lead to the Alpe Stierhof - directly from Baad, it’s a bracing climb taking approximately 2 hours. From the Walmendingerhornbahn mountain station, it’s a oneand-a-half hour walk without too many steep slopes, and with fantastic views. From the Stierhof, the path over the Ochsenhofer Scharte leads you past the Schwarzwasserhütte and through the upland moors to the GenussHütte Melköde. www.stierhof.at

ALPE MELKÖDE With each step taking you further away from the Auenhütte, you immerse yourself in a small natural paradise. The wide path is shared by pedestrians, off-road buggies and bikers, following the Schwarzwasserbach upriver to a wildly romantic plateau, the Melköde. Amidst this idyll is the Alpe Melköde (1,350 m), which offers exciting views of the Hohen Ifen from another angle. Behind this at the end of the valley, a waterfall pours into the valley. In spring, engorged by the snowmelt, it roars; in the summer it’s more of a murmur.

Since the spring of 2016, a young family has been managing the hut. Hannes Kreittner discovered early on that the Alpine lifestyle was the life for him. For the last ten years, he and his partner Corinna have spent every summer together on the mountain. Now they also enjoy the help of their daughter Anna (5) and son Linus (1). They love being able to bring their children up in such a natural environment. While Hannes loves the peace and quiet, and looks after 26 dairy cows, 6 young cattle and 14 Alpine pigs, Corinna and her kitchen team keep their cool while seeing to the guests on the terrace, or serving up a farmers’ breakfast in the cosy lounge.

Regional products and specialities

Head to Kleinwalsertal’s farm shops and dairies for high-quality beef and venison, as well as a variety of cheeses, butter, yoghurt and fresh milk. DAIRIES

in Bärgunttal • Bärgunthütte GenussHütte

on Walmendingerhorn • Obere Lüchlealpe • Alpsennerei Stutzalp

in Gemsteltal • Bernhard's Gemstelalpe • Gemstel-Schönesboden GenussHütte

in Wildental • Innere Wiesalpe • Untere Wiesalpe

in Schwarzwassertal • Alpe Melköde GenussHütte • Alpe Auen Ifen

on the Oberwestegg • Mittelalp GenussHütte

FARM SHOPS

• Abler Spezialitätenverkauf Stall in Mittelberg

• Biohof Feurstein in Mittelberg-Höfle

• Hoflaada in Mittelberg-Stütze

• Käsestadl in Hirschegg

• Räucherkammer in Riezlern

• s’Hirscheck in Hirschegg

For Hannes, being back on the Alpe Melköde completes the circle, as in 1990, this is exactly where he learnt the trade of a dairyman. Now, he’s back in the same dairy every day, using traditional methods to turn fresh milk into “Bergkäse” mountain cheese, butter, buttermilk and yogurt. In addition to their own products, they also offer a wide selection of Walser sausage and meat specialities, which can also be ordered as generous snack platters. www.alpe-melkoede.at NATURALPE GEMSTEL SCHÖNESBODEN Even from afar, you can see the smoke rising. Surrounded by a mountain meadow, slightly above the circular route through the Gemsteltal, is the quaint, 350-year-old Alpe Gemstel Schönesboden. Every morning in summer, Annabell Feurstein heats up the small brick smokehouse next to the cottage in order to prepare her speciality, warm cured Alpine

ham, or “Alpschinken”. This smoked ham is highly coveted by those in the know, so if you fancy trying it, you’re advised to get to the hut nice and early. If today’s ration has sold out, you’ll have to wait till tomorrow. As with many things in life, “less is more” also applies to high-quality food. For Annabell, a

conscious reduction to focus on the essentials is also an expression of quality: “We only have a few dishes on our menu, but I really couldn’t offer any more, because I make everything fresh and to order”. For this reason, what makes it to the table is almost exclusively products they have made themselves at the Feurstein family organic farm, which has its own dairy and butchery. The hike to Gemsteltal is a treat in itself. The wide path is also suitable for off-road buggies, and takes you to the heart of the Walser mountain world without any steep inclines. From Bödmen, the Naturalpe Gemstel Schönesboden is on the left bank of the Gemstelbach at an altitude of 1,320 m. The cosy sun terrace offers impressive views of the Kleine Widderstein, Bärenkopf, and the valley, looking towards Walmendingerhorn and Heuberg. www.biohof-feurstein.at MITTELALP Located directly on the hiking trail between Söllereck and Riezlern, the Mittelalp is a popular stopping-off point. On sunny days, every seat on the large terrace is hotly contested. For several generations, the hut has been farmed in the summer months by the Hilbrand family. Father Gerhard is a trained dairyman. He personally makes various products from the fresh milk produced at the Mittelalp; his pride and joy is his “Bergkäse” mountain cheese. He is also happy to let people on guided tours peer over his shoulder as he provides insights into the art of cheese-making and serves up a few samples. His wife Ursula and son Sylvian have set

All about cheese - Visit to the Mittelalp

Searching for the holes in the cheese - at the Mittelalp, trained dairyman Gerhard Hilbrand allows visitors to peer over his shoulder and sends a few tasty samples their way.

• Walser Buura Verkaufsstand im Café Baad Grund in Baad

• Walser weekly market in Hirschegg • Letzebuurhof in Riezlern-Zwerwald

• Berchtold’s Bura Lädele in Riezlern

• Dies & Das und iKuh - schöne Ideen in Hirschegg-Dürenboden

• and directly from many farms or online at: www.einfachgut.at

Ramble through the “Genuss” Region On the trail of regional products

Delicious cheeses and delicate meats are regional specialities from Kleinwalsertal. But what, and more importantly who, is behind them? Award-winning chef Herbert Edlinger takes you behind the scenes and shows you where the products originate - all the way from meadow to plate. Enjoy a “Genuss” picnic along the way, before one of the Walser “Genuss” hosts provides more details from the coal face. And don’t miss out on a greeting from the “Genuss” kitchen!

Every Thursday at 9.30 am, approx. 4 hours € 15.00 / children under 14 free from 18 May to 2 November, 2017

• Xond in Riezlern

• Waldhaus in Riezlern

themselves the goal of providing visitors to the Mittelalp with a slice of Walser culture and lifestyle. Having grown up on his parents’ farm, Sylvian is convinced that the dairy products of each region carry their own individual flavour: “Each place in the valley has a very unique taste, so naturally the fresh milk tastes different too.” For him, “Genuss” is his homeland, and maintaining the traditional smallholder dairy and farming structures in the Kleinwalsertal is a labour of love. Enjoying something in good conscience requires transparency - knowing where it comes from and how it was prepared. For this reason, he primarily focuses on products from their dairy and farm, rounding off the varied dining options at Mittelalp with other products from the GenussRegion Kleinwalsertal. www.mittelalp.at

Every Wednesday at 14.00, approx. 3 hours € 15.00 / children under 14 free from 17 May to 1 November, 2017

www.kleinwalsertal.com/webshop

KLEINWALSERTAL KLEINWALSERTALTHE DASMAGAZINE MAGAZIN // // 31

Walser TrailChallenge

Walser Trail Challenge

Experience Kleinwalsertalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trails in the Walser Trail Challenge Pro or Classic, or concentrate on one of the three competitions - organised by trail runners for trail runners!

Get ready to enjoy challenging climbs, flowing downhills and breath-taking summit experiences. WiddersteinTrail 15 km | 980 m change in altitude July 29, 2017 WalserTrail 29 km | 1,900 change in altitude July 30, 2017 WalserUltraTrail 65 km | 4,200 change in altitude July 30, 2017

Photo: Dominik Berchtold

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 33

KLEINWALSERTAL SAYS THANK YOU! At this point, we would like to honour our regular guests, who have been coming to Kleinwalsertal for years, and who have taken the mountains and the local people to their hearts.

Premium honours in summer 2016

Karl-Heinz Träg er, hosts Ewal d & Siegi Haller, Mariann e Träger

The world of the Casino Kleinwalsertal

Schultheis, mmerle, Ottmar Host Regine Hälina and Sonja Schultheis Nichte Ange

Fun, games and enjoyment find it all under one roof Host Hansi Moosbrugger, Margreth Höffken and RenBrigitte Bieletzki, ate Moosbrugger

The Casino Kleinwalsertal is one of a total of twelve Casino Austria concerns in the country. It is not just the Riezlern casino’s idyllic location that sets it apart, but also the way in which the casino, restaurant, nightclub and event spaces are all linked together. In 2016, Gault Millau awarded the Cuisino restaurant a “chef’s hat” (Haube) for its excellent cuisine and friendly service for the seventh time running. The award-winning restaurant offers a varied menu of regional dishes, offering both downto-earth cooking and fine dining. The separate function rooms can be used for meetings, seminars, and courses of any kind, as well as concerts. Events are held here throughout the year.

One floor up, in the gaming room guests can immerse themselves in another world: the drop and rattle of the roulette ball in the wheel, the winners’ cheers, and the clinking of champagne, or rather Sekt, glasses. A visit to the casino is a very special experience. Newbies can pre-arrange explanatory introductions to the games of poker, roulette and blackjack, as well as learning some of the tricks of the slot machines. Or you can simply sit at the bar with a delicious cocktail and watch the games in play. The “Jolly” nightclub offers the perfect end to a successful evening. The playlist is varied, providing guests with plenty of opportunity to let their hair down.

Thanks to its varied offer, the Casino Kleinwalsertal turns a visit into an experience. Dive into the fascinating world of entertainment, and let the unique charm and hospitality of the Casino Kleinwalsertal work its magic on you. ■ Stephanie Dreher

Visit u s during o u r “regula rs’ we e k” from 1 5 to 20 Oc tober 2017

Schickel Elisabeth Schultheis Sonja Schultheis Ottmar Damoiseaux André und Elly Müller Hans-Eugen und Vera Bieletzki Brigitte Höffken Margreth Wiehmeier Ernst Träger Karl-Heinz Träger Marianne Komp Josef und Gertrud Schmidt Wilfried Schnupper Helmut und Hanna Stracke Ulrich und Cäcilia Winkens Manfred und Karin Japes Simone Kowalski Hans und Marile Christochowitz Wolfgang und Waltraud Deppe Dieter Deppe Christa Schroers Hans und Agnes Hamm-Gallitscher Rita Hamm Eva Thiery Jürgen Brackelsberg Rolf und Hannelore Gläßner Klaudia Büchler Horst und Karoline Büchler Holger, Gaby, Steffen, Annika Gläßner Karl Dünnwald Josef und Katharina Zägel Alois und Bärbel

Number of visits

Wentorf bei Hamburg Elsoff Elsoff NL Oosterhout Herscheid Duisburg Duisburg Lemgo Duisburg Duisburg Köln Haiger Westerstede Drolshagen Bochum Kirchhundem Gladbeck

100 63 61 60 60 60 60 50 50 47 50 44 41 40 40 40 40

Köln Algermissen Algermissen Mönchengladbach Pfungstadt Pfungstadt Hochheim Hückeswagen Bad Salzuflen Otzberg

40 40 39 40 40 32 35 35 35 35

Groß Umstadt Bad Salzuflen Köln Marpingen

31 30 30 30

. . . we look forward to seeing you again!

The official guest awards ceremony always takes place on a Wednesday in the Walserhaus in Hirschegg. Special guests are invited to attend with their hosts. All guest awards can be found on www.kleinwalsertal.com unter Aktuelles & Service

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 35

KLEINWALSERTAL WINTER WORLD! The altitude of the villages (1,086 to 1,244m) and its favourable north-west orientation on the northern edge of the Alps makes Kleinwalsertal a real “snow hole”. On average, more than 9 metres of snow fall every winter in this, one of the wettest regions in the Alps.

Boundless skiing enjoyment

on 47 chairlifts, gondolas and 128km of pistes! Nestled in the ski mountains of Kanzelwand-Fellhorn, Ifen, Walmendingerhorn and Heuberg, the Kleinwalsertal ski area extends over the whole valley. Other ski resorts connected to Oberstdorf-Kleinwalsertal include Söllereck and Nebelhorn. Snow parks, night skiing and a fantastic freeride area complete the offer.

mation re infor o m d liday Fin inter ho w r u o er d furth about y n a l a t r walse in Klein t offers a al.com

In the rhythm of cross-country skiing

Anyone who indulges in this Nordic sport and wishing to do something to benefit their health is well served by our three trails stretching out over almost 50 km. Our trails are divided into HRV measurement impulses - Regeneration, Activation & Balance.

walsert n i e l k . www ebshop the W and in

Winter hiking nature experience

The valley’s high trails, such as those leading to the Schwarzwasserhütte (1,620 m), Söllereck (1,358 m), and especially the Gottesacker circuit at 2,000 m, offer incomparable winter experiences. In Kleinwalsertal, a network of over 50 km of groomed trails, at altitude and in the valley, is at your disposal.

Backcountry & snow parks

Freeriding, snowshoe tours, skiing - be on the safe side and go touring with a guide. They know the territory well, have experience and are well-trained. The Crystal Ground Snowpark Kleinwalsertal is a magnet for snowboarders and freeskiers alike, with the Kids Playground Fun Park and the Easy Park with Funslope providing further options.

Winter Experiences On Top!

Enjoy special experiences in the Walser mountains, such as a snowshoe tour through the snow dunes of the Gottesacker plateau, visit the lonely wilderness of the Schwarzwassertal or participate in our warm-up for returning skiers ...

Led by professionals!

Learn to ski and/or snowboard, improve your technique or explore the backcountry with Kleinwalsertal’s ski instructors - professional accompaniment, individual treatment.

Top ski packages: Advent ski weeks, dream ski weeks, sunshine ski weeks

Take advantage of our discounted weeks and book your skiing holiday directly at www.kleinwalsertal.com, complete with your chosen accommodation and a ski pass for the cross-border skiing area.

Leisure time

Tobogganing, building snowmen, ice skating, snow-biking, the Gaudi biathlon, horse-riding, tandem paragliding, horsedrawn sleigh rides, dog sledding with huskies, ice sports centre, the Erdinger Arena ski jumping stadium, the Heini Klopfer ski jump, the Söllereck toboggan run, and much more in and around Kleinwalsertal.

KLEINWALSERTAL THE MAGAZINE // 37

www.marmot.eu | facebook.com/marmot.mountain.europe Frank Kretschmann Location: Frankenjura, Germany |

Best Nights Sleep ARRIVING BY CAR Most routes lead to Ulm before carrying on along the A7. Take the Allgäu junction over a section of the A980 to the Waltenhofen junction, then take the 4-lane B19 via Sonthofen and Oberstdorf to Kleinwalsertal. A motorway vignette is not required to reach the valley. ARRIVING BY TRAIN The nearest train station is 10 km away in Oberstdorf in Allgäu. From there, you can take a bus or a taxi. In the high season, buses run from approximately 7.00 to 21.00. The trip to Kleinwalsertal takes approximately 25 minutes. Taxis wait at the station around the clock.

Kleinwalsertal Tourismus eGen A-6992 Hirschegg · Walserstraße 264 Telephone +43 (0)5517 5114-0 www.kleinwalsertal.com

ARRIVING BY PLANE Memmingen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .89 Friedrichshafen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105 Augsburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .167 Zürich . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .187 München . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .205 Stuttgart . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224

km km km km km km

AIRPORT TRANSFERS - Taxi Düringer or all airports: Tel. +43 5517 5460 or 5464 - Allgäu Walser Express from Friedrichshafen: www.allgaeu-walser-express.com

You can also find Kleinwalsertal on:

WALSERBUS - YOUR PLUS On holiday, why don’t you simply leave your car behind. The Walserbus will transport you quickly, conveniently and comfortably to your destination. And the best part – with Advantages with your guest card, travel on guest card the Walserbus is free throughout the valley. Even your ticket down to Oberstdorf (Germany) is discounted with your guest card. Enjoy countless advantages 1. Short waiting times (10 to 20 minutes). 2. No looking for spaces or parking fees 3. No stress 4. Less traffic 5. More peace and quiet, and a cleaner environment Please note that the frequency of buses is reduced in the low season, and that routes 2 - 5 cover a limited route only.

Tent Collection Sustainable. Lightweight. Comfortable. All Marmot tents got a full technical redesign creating more liveable space and comfort. Besides that all tents are produced free of any PFCs – enough reasons for your Best Nights Sleep. < Bolt 3P (also available as 2P) www.marmot.eu