20131021 sul

Cover_ Tajakdo(Threshing Rice; Collection of the National Museum of Korea) from The Picture Book by Danwon by Kim Hong-do

Intangible Cultural Heritage of Korea

Onggi Published in 2010

Tal and Talchum Published in 2011

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages Sul, Korean alcoholic beverages, has long been an integral part of life in Korea. Thought of as a medium for communicating with God, sul from time immemorial to the present has occupied a special place in rites of passage and seasonal customs. Profound significance and special attention were accorded to how sul of various kinds were made, what vessels contained them, and how they were served, giving birth to a variety of artifacts and manners ascribing meanings and roles of sul in Korean society. Understanding the history and cultural value of sul will contribute to better appreciation and enjoyment of traditional Korean alcoholic drinks.

Gat Published in 2012

The National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage (NRICH) carries out research, survey, and development projects for the proper recognition, conservation, and usage of the nation’s cultural heritage. Since the NRICH was firstly established in 1969 as a division of the Bureau of the Cultural Heritage Administration, cultural heritage research has been highly specialized, and we currently have some 350 researchers working in the divisions of Archaeology, Artistic Heritage, Architectural Heritage, Intangible Cultural Heritage, Natural Heritage, and Conservation Science.

Republic of Korea

This book is the fourth publication of the series of ”Intangible Cultural Heritage of Korea” planned by the NRICH for publicizing the Korean intangible cultural heritage to the world. On the basis of the accumulated studies, this book provides valuable information to the general public and researchers who are interested in Korean intangible cultural heritage.

ISBN 978-89-299-0176-9 93590 Government Publication Number 11-1550011-000578-01

www.nrich.go.kr/eng

Intangible Cultural Heritage of Korea

Contents 3 Sul in Art and Customs

1 Sul in Korean Life

81

13

1.

Why Early Koreans Made Sul Early Concept of Sul History of Sul

Artists Paintings Artifacts 102

20 Nuruk Flavors, Colors, and Fragrances 24

116

Sul Types by Filtering Methods Sul Types by Production Methods Sul Types by Number of Fermentations Sul Types by Ingredients of the Primary Mash

Drinking Manners Drinking Customs Drinking Culture

2 Sul Designated as Important

Appendix

Intangible Cultural Heritage 39 Origin and Transmission Making Process A Breathing, Living Liquid

Sul Designated as Intangible Cultural Heritage at City and Province Levels 122 Glossary

51 Origin and Transmission Making Process Flowery Intoxication 65 Origin and Transmission Making Process Ambrosial Distillate

Seasonal Customs Rites of Passages Hyangeumjurye and Giroyeon

134

Greetings

For Koreans, sul has always been not just an alcoholic

Made from nuruk, Korean alcoholic beverages are famous for

EHYHUDJH WR GULQN DQG HQMR\ LQ HDFK RWKHUÂśV FRPSDQ\ EXW D VLJQLÂżFDQW

gentle colors, mellow tastes, and nice fragrances. Some are enduringly

medium that serves a sacred purpose, such as communion with God

associated with sad or pleasant stories; many old-time favorites

and pouring blessings on the union of a couple being married. Sul

continue to be brewed with diverse materials gathered from nature.

is deeply rooted in the life of the Korean people whose tradition of

The varieties and meanings of sul are wide and deep.

drinking accompanied with singing and dancing is time-honored.

This is the fourth in a series of books published with a view to As much as they like alcoholic drinks, Koreans have long

promoting and raising awareness of Korean intangible cultural

paid great attention to how it is consumed and where it is served. Its

heritage. This publication is divided into three chapters through

venerable place in the culture is evidenced by a wide range of

which readers are introduced to the history of sul, nationally

ancient cups and bottles used for containing sul in the nation’s

designed and local specialty alcoholic beverages, and traditional

material legacy, along with a number of paintings and songs

artistry inspired by sul.

featuring sul-related themes. Drinking manners, along with traditional techniques for producing alcoholic beverages, have

This publication is designed to invite those who have yet to

been transmitted from time immemorial. Different regions infuse

know about Korean alcoholic beverages to enjoy their colorful,

different characteristics in local alcohols. Sul has been an integral

delicious, and fragrant qualities.

part of Korean life and art.

July 31, 2013

Dr. KIM Young-Won Director General National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage

Sul in Korean Life

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

Sul, Traditional Liquor in Korea

8

9

1 Sul

in Korean Life

Sul, Korean alcoholic beverages, has long been an integral part of life in Korea. Thought of as a medium for communicating with God, sul from time immemorial to the present has occupied a special place in rites of passage DQG VHDVRQDO FXVWRPV 3URIRXQG VLJQL¿FDQFH DQG VSHFLDO attention were accorded to how sul of various kinds were made, what vessels contained them, and how they were served, giving birth to a variety of artifacts and manners ascribing meanings and roles of sul in Korean society.

Understanding the history and cultural value of sul will contribute to better appreciation and enjoyment of traditional Korean alcoholic drinks.

10 © Gansong Art Museum

Sul in Korean Life

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

01 _ Tabwondosohoejido (Gathering for Drinking Dosoju at Tabwon) by An Jung-sik.

Families and friends gather on New Year’s Day to drink dosoju to ward off evil spirits and to maintain health throughout the year.

11 01

Overview

Why Early Koreans Made Sul 0DNLQJ TXDOLW\ VXO ZDV IDU PRUH GLI¿FXOW WKDQ FRRNLQJ IRRG VLQFH it can only be guaranteed by successful fermentation. Therefore, .RUHDQ DQFHVWRUV EHOLHYHG WKDW ZKDW GHWHUPLQHG ÀDYRU DQG IUDJUDQFH of sul were divine powers, not human endeavor. This is why the verb pray (bil-da or bit-da) is used in Korean expressions to suggest the brewing or distilling of sul. The word can be interpreted with diverse meanings.

Korean ancestors prepared for sul making by praying to God to help them make good quality sul. They thought that divine power SOD\HG D VLJQL¿FDQW UROH LQ WKH EUHZLQJ RI VXO DQG SDUWLFXODUO\ marveled at the fermentation process wherein microorganisms SURGXFH DOFRKRO DORQJ ZLWK D UDQJH RI ÀDYRUV DQG IUDJUDQFHV surpassing those of the original ingredients. In their belief, humans could only make efforts for good results, but the results are actually decided by God. When making sul, they cleansed body and mind, and anxiously awaited the answer from God. They prayed for communion with God by offering sul. It was regarded as food for God, not for humans. After the yearly harvest,

Sul in Korean Life

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

12

they brewed sul using the choicest grains and offered it to God.

13

02

Early Koreans made sul praying for good fortune for those who

Early Concept of Sul

would consume the drink. Different techniques and ingredients were used depending on who would drink the sul and for what purpose:

.RUHDQ DQFHVWRUV WKRXJKW RI VXO DV ³¿UH FRQWDLQHG LQ ZDWHU ´ $V VXO

as an offering to dead souls or human drinkers, and family elders or

undergoes fermentation, microorganisms convert sugar to alcohol

guests; and whether it would be used for a farming ritual or festival

along with carbon dioxide, and carbon dioxide produced during

and intended for sale or as a gift.

fermentation generates bubbles. Witnessing sul bubbling up, Korean IRUHIDWKHUV DVVXPHG WKDW ÂżUH FDPH LQWR EHLQJ RXW RI QRZKHUH 7KHLU

Each household had its own way of making sul as late as 100

concept of sul was also based on the traditional Eastern principle

years ago. Alcohols made by private houses were used for paying

of yin and yang: cool and calm, water represented yin, and hot

tribute to dead forbears or natural deities, for festivals, for farming

DQG ULVLQJ ÂżUH UHSUHVHQWHG \DQJ VXO ZDV UHJDUGHG DV WKH SHUIHFW

rituals to ensure a good harvest, and for offering hospitality to guests.

combination of yin and yang.

Sul was made considering who would consume it and served with exquisite manners.

Imbued with its unique taste and scent, each kind of sul possesses characteristics that cannot be found in the original ingredients. Sul embolden one to say or do what is considered abnormal. Sul was consumed not just to get drunk, but enjoyed as a gift from God, with yin and yang contained in great harmony. Making sul was

02 _ The abalone-shaped water channel at the site of Poseokjeong Pavilion (Historic Site No.1) in Gyeongju. The king and noblemen enjoyed poetry and drinking from wine cups oating down the water channel during the United Silla period.

Sul in Korean Life

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

14

warms the body, lifts the spirit, and sometimes addles the mind to

15

03

considered as belonging to the divine domain, not the humanly one. con

The oldest record of sul is found in a story about the founding

Humans would do their best to ensure good conditions and learn Hu

of the Goguryeo Kingdom in Samguk sagi (History of the Three

relevant re skills, but it would be godly power that made quality sul.

Kingdoms) compiled in 1145. The story goes: “Haemosu, the son

When brewing or distilling sul, Korean ancestors did the work

of the god of heaven invited the three daughters of Habaek, a water

with all their heart and mind, praying to God for good results.

deity, and treated them to sul. When the three daughters were about

When it was done, they drank sul wishing to connect with God

to return home, he seduced the eldest daughter, Yuhwa, and they

and dedicated the drink to God for the health and prosperity of

spent the night together. Thereafter, Yuhwa gave birth to Jumong,

their family and offspring.

WKH IXWXUH IRXQGHU RI *RJXU\HR ´ During the Three Kingdoms period (57 B.C.–A.D. 676), brewing techniques achieved a high level of advancement. Goguryeo people

History of Sul Hi

had a custom of eating porridge or steamed grain powder with milk.

This dietary practice arguably led to the creation of sul, which

The origin of the term sul is associated with the ancient Korean

corresponds with the theory on the etymology of the term sul coming

FRQFHSW RI ÂżUH FRPLQJ RXW RI ZDWHU WKH WZR .RUHDQ ZRUGV IRU ZDWHU

from su-eul, referring to milk porridge and bird droppings. Historical

DQG ÂżUH ZHUH MRLQHG WR FUHDWH WKH WHUP sul. The word su, meaning

writings note, “People from Goguryeo defeated the ruler of Yodong

water, and the word bul PHDQLQJ ÂżUH ZHUH FRPELQHG WR EHFRPH su-

of the Chinese Han Dynasty by brewing jiju (an alcoholic drink ´ DQG

bul, which would then be pronounced su-eul, thence sul.

³HQMR\HG WKH FRQVXPSWLRQ DQG VWRUDJH RI IHUPHQWHG IRRGV ´ 7KHUH LV a record to show that Japan learned brewing skills from Korea. An

Another hypothesis is that the term sul originated from the

old Japanese book, Gosagi (Historical Stories), notes, “Inbeon from

Chinese characters මɿ, or su-eul, meaning tarakjuk (Korean milk

Baekje transferred techniques for making sul to Japan. Drinking it,

SRUULGJH DQG ELUG 7KLV K\SRWKHVLV DVVXPHV WKDW VXO ZDV ÂżUVW IRXQG

d him as the emperor joyfully danced and regarded

from leftover milk porridge which underwent fermentation after

D ¾OLTXRU GHLW\œ ´

birds’ waste accidentally dropped into it.

The etymology of the term sul suggests that the beverage was spontaneously created in Korea. Fungi or bacteria from the air could have fermented sugar in fruits or grains and produced alcohol, methods for brewing alcoholic beverages.

1392), the development of brewing methods for grain alcohols had been perfected, and a new technique, distilling, re was adopted. The categories of sul were GLQJ GLYHUVLÂżHG LQWR VHYHUDO JURXSV LQFOXGLQJ k rice cheongju (clear rice wine), takju (thick

03 _ Sugi, bottles used to catch soju from a distiller.

04 _ Peach-shaped silver cups. Collection of the National Palace Museum of Korea.

04

Sul in Korean Life

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

16

and ancient Koreans re-created the accidental process to develop

During the Goryeo Dynasty (918–

17

wine), soju (distilled spirit), and gwasilju (fruity wine). In the

War (1950–1953) sustained the crackdown on moonshining.

Buddhist society of Goryeo, temples sold liquors on the sidelines of

Liquor control was further strengthened by the adoption of a grain

the principal business of lodging. State-run public drinking houses

management law in 1965. Along the way, traditional Korean liquors

were built in order to promote the circulation of a new currency,

lost ground.

haedong tongbo. The rise of trade also contributed to the booming of taverns.

As late as in the 1980s, the necessity of designating traditional liquors as state heritage was seriously considered. The rupture of

During the Joseon Dynasty (1392–1910), traditional liquor

about 80 years in the traditional liquor culture, however, was hard

FXOWXUH ÀRXULVKHG DQG UHDFKHG LWV SHDN ZLWK WKH DGYDQFHPHQW RI KRPH

to mend. Skills and knowledge involved in the making of traditional

brewing by private families. The compilation of Dongui bogam

alcoholic drinks had been orally transmitted, leaving few written

(Exemplar of Korean Medicine) in 1610 promoted the creation of

records.

a new type of liquor using medicinal herbs, and the appearance of sojutgori (distiller) boosted the consumption of soju. The aristocratic class indulged themselves in luxury alcohols, and each region of the country developed particular types of liquor distinguished by its own characteristics: the southern region was renowned for takju; the middle region for yakju (medicinal wine); and the northern region for soju. As for the methods of brewing, the technique of multiple fermentations was widespread. An alcoholic drink mixing a brewed liquor and a distilled spirit was prevalent in late Joseon.

The traditional liquor culture dating back thousands of years was demolished during Japanese colonial rule (1910–1945). A decree levying a liquor tax announced by the colonial government in 1907 banned home brewing and allowed only licensed brewers to make

05

liquors, driving thousands of traditional alcoholic beverages into extinction. With the adoption of a liquor tax law in 1916, the colonial rulers tightened the crackdown on illegal alcoholic beverages and takju, and soju. Even after liberation in 1945, the liquor tax under colonial rule was still valid, and food shortages after the Korean 05 _ Drinking at a jumak, a public house, during the Daehan Jeguk (Great Han Empire) at the turn of the 19th century.

Sul in Korean Life

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

18

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19

What Sul Is Made Of

Nuruk Nuruk, a fermentation starter for brewing alcoholic beverages, is a dough made from grain germinated by enzyme-releasing microorganisms.

Nuruk is a Korean equivalent to barley malt used in brewing beer LQ WKH :HVW $V D GHWHUPLQDQW IDFWRU IRU ÀDYRU IUDJUDQFH DQG FRORU of sul, nuruk is an indispensable ingredient for brewing alcoholic drinks in Korea.

To make nuruk, fungi or bacteria are germinated on a culture medium which is made of starchy grains such as rice, wheat, and barley. Wheat and barley have been the most popular materials for nuruk as they are likely to make quality nuruk to impart the tastes and scents pleasing to the Korean palate. Fungi used for nuruk are FODVVLÂżHG LQWR WKUHH NLQGV DFFRUGLQJ WR WKHLU FRORU Aspergillus oryzae (brownish), Aspergillus niger (blackish), and Monascus purpureus (reddish). The brownish nuruk is principally used for Korean liquors.

To make nuruk in the traditional way, ground wheat is mixed with water, put in a mold, and pressed into the desired shape. The nuruk dough is left for 12 to 20 days to ferment, hung in a kitchen or a room and turned over three to four times. Favorable temperature cultured nuruk is a prerequisite for the clear color and fresh scent of sul.

categories: ddeok-nuruk made of a lump of grain power and heuchim-nuruk made of cereal grains. Ddeok-nuruk grew a variety of microorganisms such as fungi, lactic acid bacteria, and yeasts WKRURXJKO\ GHHS LQVLGH WKH OXPS LPSDUWLQJ ULFK DQG FRPSOH[ ÀDYRUV to alcohol. In contrast, fungi germinate only on the surface on heuchim-nuruk, providing simple and light tastes.

1XUXN FRPHV JOREH VKDSHG LQ ÀDW URXQG GLVNV RU UHFWDQJXODU mostly with a hole in the center. Nuruk must be made in just the right size and thickness. Nuruk too small in diameter and not thick enough is easily deprived of moisture, which prevents full germination of fungi and hinders fermentation. A small and thin nuruk produces an XQVDWLVIDFWRU\ ÀDYRU DQG ORZ DOFRKRO \LHOG $ WKLFN QXUXN RQ WKH other hand, limits the emission of moisture and raises the temperature inside the fermentation jar.

Sul in Korean Life

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

20

and humidity are critical to the culture of fungi on nuruk. A well

'XULQJ WKH -RVHRQ '\QDVW\ QXUXN ZDV FODVVLÂżHG LQWR WZR

21

Flavors, Colors, and Fragrances Sul has unique tastes, quite distinct from strong Chinese spirits,

Although they are not fruit-based, traditional Korean alcoholic

delicate Japanese alcohols, sophisticated wines, or intoxicating

beverages boast aromatic scents and natural colors. Those with

vodka. Traditional Korean liquors have gentle and soft, but deep and

a high alcohol content also have a very smooth taste. A couple of

ULFK ÀDYRUV SRVVHVVLQJ ¿YH WDVWHV ² VZHHWQHVV DFLGQHVV VRXUQHVV

drinks of traditional liquor would soothe a despondent mood and lift

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spirits, and even excessive drinking does not cause a hangover. More

sul makers anxiously anticipating well brewed liquors, creating

IHUPHQWDWLRQV DQG ORQJHU PDWXULQJ ZRXOG SURGXFH EHWWHU ÀDYRUV

SURIRXQG DQG P\VWHULRXV ÀDYRUV XQLTXH WR WUDGLWLRQDO .RUHDQ

colors, and fragrances.

alcoholic beverages.

Traditional alcoholic beverages take on common colors even with different materials mixed in different proportions. The addition RI ÀDYRULQJ LQJUHGLHQWV VXFK DV ÀRZHUV JUDVV URRWV RU WUHH EDUNV causes little change in the color of alcohols. A golden color is considered as the best, second best is an amber tint, and deep purple is the least desirable. Even within the same color range, alcoholic drinks are graded according to transparency, with the clearest rated top class. The best color of traditional Korean liquors is, therefore, brighter and more splendid than that of the Chinese huangjiu and is deeper golden than that of the Japanese sake.

Made of nuruk and rice without any other supplements, traditional Korean alcohols have gentle aromas which are reminiscent of apples, grapes, strawberries, peaches, plums, and lotuses. Some alcoholic drinks are said to smell of nuruk fungi, but unpleasant odors are associated only with liquors made in an abbreviated process. smell of fungi and leave desirable fragrances.

Sul in Korean Life

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

22

Adequate time and multiple fermentations of nuruk take away the

23

The Many Kinds of Sul

Takju (Thick Rice Wine) Takju refers to cloudy rice wine, in contrast to cheongju. Takju is typically made within 10 days, after a single fermentation. To make KLJK JUDGH WDNMX WKH IHUPHQWHG PDVK LV ÂżUVW ÂżOWHUHG WR SURGXFH cheongju and then is squeezed on a sifter to produce a cloudy liquid.

Sul Types by Filtering Methods

Makgeolli, a type of takju, is made by diluting the fermented mash ZLWK ZDWHU ZLWKRXW SULRU ÂżOWHULQJ

$FFRUGLQJ WR KRZ IHUPHQWHG EHYHUDJHV DUH ÂżOWHUHG WKH\ DUH GLYLGHG into

(clear rice wine) and or takju is distilled,

(thick rice wine). When

The word makgeolli PHDQV ³VLIWHG ULJKW EHIRUH´ RU ³URXJKO\ VLIWHG ´ 0DNJHROOL UHIHUV WR DQ\ NLQG RI OLTXRU PDGH IURP OHIWRYHU DOFRKRO PDVK ZKLFK ZDV DOUHDG\ ¿OWHUHG DQG WKHQ GLOXWHG ZLWK ZDWHU

(distilled spirit) is produced.

Renowned for its sweet and refreshing taste, makgeolli is popularly consumed by farmers to quench their thirst after exhausting labor.

Cheongju (Clear Rice Wine) &KHRQJMX UHIHUV WR FOHDU ULFH ZLQH ZKLFK LV SURGXFHG E\ ÂżOWHULQJ WKH fermented mash with a view to achieving better taste and fragrance.

Soju (Distilled Spirit)

More than one thousand varieties of cheongju were produced during

The method for making soju was learned from Mongol invaders

the Joseon Dynasty, the heyday of traditional liquor culture. Rice is

who built encampments in Kaesong, Andong, and Jejudo Island in

WKH PDLQ VWDUFK XVHG IRU FKHRQJMX ZKLFK FRPHV LQ D YDULHW\ RI ÀDYRUV

the late Goryeo period. Mongol people enjoyed intoxicating liquors

and fragrances according to the proportion and preparation of rice.

made by distilling, providing ideas for the creation of soju, a strong distilled spirit. Afterwards, the areas where Mongol troops were based became popular destinations for soju, and the new term sojudo was coined to refer to groups of soju lovers.

Fermented alcoholic beverages are heated in a distiller to extract a clear alcoholic liquor. Colorless and refreshing, soju has a unique taste because of volatile elements in it.

Each art of the country produced soju at different times of the year. The southern region made soju in summer when brewing was to October, and the northern region consumed the spirit alcohol year-

06

06 _ Cheongju, clear rice wine made by ďŹ ltering the fermented mash.

round.

Sul in Korean Life

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

24

GLIÂżFXOW 7KH PLGGOH SDUW RI WKH FRXQWU\ PDGH VRMX PDLQO\ IURP 0D\

25

Sul Types by Production Methods Sokseongju (Fast-made Liquor) Sokseongju is an alcoholic beverage produced by an accelerated

Fruits with zesty fragrances such as citrons and tangerines are

brewing process that takes only one to 10 days. For unexpected

thoroughly cleaned, and their rinds are used for making gahyangju.

occasions such as guests visiting or a death in the family, households would make sokseongju to serve large crowds. Since alcoholic

Yakyong Yakju (Medicinal Liquor)

beverages were an essential element of hospitality and ritual

Yakyong yakju is an alcoholic beverage made with medicinal

ceremonies, sokseongju was brewed as a stopgap measure when

plant materials such as roots or tree bark. Sul was believed to be

other liquors could not be made in time or an earlier brewing went

the best drug in Oriental medicine, and yakyong yakju is tonics

bad.

made to help prevent or treat diseases. Plant materials are boiled

Sokseongju is fermented in a warm temperature for up to 10

to produce medicinal extracts which are then mixed together with

days. When it is needed in less than three days, nuruk dissolved in

other ingredients for brewing. There is a diverse range of medicinal

water is added to help with faster fermentation. Sokseongju has a

materials such as pine needles, bamboo leaves, or ginseng roots,

short shelf life, but has a pretty good taste for one or two days.

but only one of them is used at a time. Those boosting vigor and materials deemed good for hair and skin were most preferred.

Gahyangju (Aromatic Liquor) Gahyangju LV PDGH ZLWK WKH DGGLWLRQ RI VHDVRQDO ÀRZHUV RU IUXLWV 6SULQJ ÀRZHUV VXFK DV D]DOHDV DQG IRUV\WKLDV ZHUH XVHG LQ VSULQJ

Honseongju LV PDGH IURP D GLVWLOOHG VSLULW WKDW KDV EHHQ ÀDYRUHG

roses, peppermints, and irises were popular in summer; fragrant

with fruits or medicinal herbs and bottled with the addition of sugars

fruits such as citrons and tangerines were added in autumn; and half-

or seasonings. It is a liqueur. Making honseongju overcomes the

RSHQHG EXGV RI SOXP ÀRZHUV ZHUH ÀRDWHG LQ D OLTXRU FXS LQ ZLQWHU

constraints of temperature or climate and can be easily done for a short

Flowers, leaves, and fruit peels were the most popular ingredients IRU PDNLQJ JDK\DQJMX +DOI RSHQHG ÀRZHU EXGV DUH FROOHFWHG ZDVKHG LQ ÀRZLQJ VWUHDP ZDWHU DQG GULHG WLOO FULVS LQ DLU\ VKDGH IRU two to three days. When they are soft and tender, aromatic leaves such DV SHSSHUPLQWV DUH FROOHFWHG DQG SUHSDUHG WKH VDPH ZD\ DV ÀRZHUV

SHULRG RI WLPH ZLWK GLYHUVH ÀDYRUV GHSHQGLQJ RQ DGGHG VZHHWHQHUV or seasonings. It is easy to extract medicinal properties from herbs when making an alcoholic beverage, and therefore honseongju was sometimes made for prolonged storage of medicinal herbs.

Sul in Korean Life

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

26

Honseongju (Compound Spirit)

27

Honyangju (Mixed Liquor)

Sul Types by Number of Fermentations

Honyangju is an alcoholic beverage made by mixing a fermented liquor and a distilled spirit. Honyangju is totally different from

Flavors, scents, and alcohol content are determined by the number

IRUWLÂżHG ZLQH ZLQH PL[HG ZLWK EUDQG\ DQG sake (cheongju mixed

RI IHUPHQWDWLRQV $Q DOFRKROLF EHYHUDJH IUHVK RXW RI WKH ÂżUVW

with soju). To make honyangju, soju is added to the fermented liquor

fermentation smells of nuruk fungi, but multiple fermentations

made of rice and nuruk, and then the mixture is fermented again.

HQGRZ LW ZLWK IUXLW\ DQG ÀRZHU\ IUDJUDQFHV ZKLFK DOVR HQKDQFH

Honyangju has the advantages of both brewing and distilling: rich

alcohol strength and storage life.

taste and scent, and long storage life.

Danyangju (Single-fermented Liquor) Iyangju (Special Liquor)

Danyangju is an alcoholic beverage which is fermented for one time.

Iyangju is an alcoholic beverage made by a special method, not

Compared to the drinks with multiple fermentations, danyangju has

the standard way. It includes wasongju made in a big slanting

lesser tastes and fragrances, but was more cost-friendly and widely

pine tree log, juktongju brewed inside the hollow stem

enjoyed by commoners. With a low alcohol content, danyangju has

of a bamboo plant, jiju made in a jar buried deep in the

a short storage life and should be consumed within a short period of

ground, cheongseoju brewed in a jar steeped in cold water,

time.

and sinseonbyeokdochun made in a pine log hollowed in the shape of a jar.

Iyangju (Twice-fermented Liquor) Iyangju is an alcoholic beverage which is fermented twice. The primary mash consists of nuruk and grains which come in diverse forms such as porridge, steamed rice cake, doughnut rice cake, boiled rice cake, and undercooked porridge. The secondary mash is hard-cooked rice or steamed rice cake alone and sometimes with the addition of hard nuruk or watery nuruk. Barley malt or wheat powder is sometimes added to the primary or secondary mash.

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

Sul in Korean Life

28

29

,\DQJMX LV FODVVLÂżHG LQWR WZR W\SHV EDVHG RQ WKH QXPEHU RI GD\V

Sul Types by Ingredients for the Primary Mash

of fermentation of both the primary and secondary mash: those fermented more than 10 days and those for less than 10 days.

Juk (Porridge) Juk is ground cereal boiled in water until thick. Juk is mainly used to

Samyangju (Triple-fermented Liquor)

make the primary mash for making the alcoholic beverage fermented

Samyangju is an alcoholic beverage which is fermented three times.

at a low temperature. Juk used as the starch source of the primary

The more times a liquor is fermented, the higher alcohol content

mash yields large quantities of sul with a clear color.

it has and the less toxic it becomes. Samyangju has a clear and mellow golden color along with a soft and deep fragrance, fruity and

Gumeongddeok (Doughnut Rice Cake)

Ă€RZHU\ 7KHUH DUH H[TXLVLWH OLTXRUV WKDW KDYH XQGHUJRQH TXDGUXSOH

Gumeongddeok LV D GRXJKQXW VKDSHG ULFH FDNH PDGH RI ULFH ÀRXU

or quintuple fermentations.

kneaded with hot water. The sul yield when gumeongddeok is used for the primary mash is small, but has an excellent taste, an appealing fragrance, and a long storage life. Gumeongddeok was mainly used by people of wealth and the nobility.

Gaeddeok (Shapeless Rice Cake) Gaeddeok is an unattractive looking rice cake of indeterminate shape. Making gaeddeok requires a great deal of time and effort: rice SRZGHU LV ¿UVW VWHDPHG DQG WKHQ SRXQGHG ZLWK D SHVWOH LQ D PRUWDU VKDSHG LQWR ÀDWWHQHG FDNHV DQG WKHQ VWHDPHG DJDLQ /DERULRXVO\ made, gaeddeok yields a good tasting, pleasantly scented alcoholic beverage.

30

Sul in Korean Life

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

07 _ Making iyangju, a twice-fermented liquor.

31 07

Godubap (Hard-cooked Rice)

Mulsongpyeon (Boiled Rice Cake)

Godubap consists of rice cooked in a steamer with minimal water.

Mulsongpyeon is rice dough lumps torn by hand and boiled in hot

:KHQ XVLQJ JRGXEDS WKHUH LV QR QHHG WR SRXQG WKH JUDLQV LQWR ÀRXU

water, shaped somewhat like gumeongddeok crossed with gaeddeok.

making the whole process simpler. Godubap produces a clear-colored

While known to provide good colors and fragrances to liquors,

liquor with a high alcohol content, which, however, is intoxicating

mulsongpyeon produces a small yield and is cumbersome to make.

and has an unpleasant scent. Godubap is widely used for danyangju

Mulsongpyeon is not popular for making alcoholic beverages.

or sokseongju, liquors made with a single or short fermentation.

Baekseolgi (Steamed Rice Cake) Baekseolgi is a white steamed rice cake made of rice powder mixed with water and sugar. Baekseolgi is widely used to make alcoholic EHYHUDJHV HQGRZLQJ WKHP ZLWK WDVW\ DQG VXEWOH ÀDYRUV

Injeolmi (Pounded Rice Cake) Injeolmi is made from steamed rice pounded hard with a pestle in a PRUWDU &KHZ\ DQG JRRG IRU GLJHVWLRQ LQMHROPL JLYHV D WDVW\ ÀDYRU DQG helps with fermentation when used to make liquors. The process of making injeolmi, however, is complicated, preventing its widespread use as the starch source for the primary mash.

Beombeok (Undercooked Porridge) Beombeok is undercooked porridge made of grain powder mixed with hot water and brought to a boil. Beombeok ensures a high alcohol content and a pleasant scent in alcoholic beverages. Beombeok, however, is undercooked and therefore prone to being contaminated with bacteria, and needs a long time for fermentation. When using beombeok for brewing, quality nuruk should be used to make up for

08 08 _ Godubap, hard-cooked rice.

Sul in Korean Life

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

32

these disadvantages.

33

Sul Designated as

Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

34

35

2

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

Sul has always been considered as an indispensable element in showing reverence to God, serving the elderly, and conducting IDPLO\ ULWXDOV PDUNLQJ VLJQLÂżFDQW OLIH SDVVDJHV VXFK DV ZHGGLQJV and funerals. During the Joseon Dynasty, the traditional liquor culture enjoyed its prime thanks to regular home brewing by private families and strong transmission efforts by professional craftsmen.

A liquor tax law enforced under Japanese colonial rule imposed strains on the development of traditional Korean alcoholic beverages, and ensuing historical events, including the Korean War and the country’s industrialization drive, severed their transmission for a ORQJ WLPH %HJLQQLQJ LQ WKH V WKH VLJQL¿FDQFH RI WUDGLWLRQDO liquors received long-overdue attention, sparking endeavors for their transmission and safeguarding. As a result, the Cultural Heritage Committee, an advisory group of the Cultural Heritage skills for making local liquors as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage as they are gradually going into extinction because of FKDQJH RI OLIHVW\OH ´ DQG WKH QH[W \HDU LQ WKUHH ORFDO OLTXRUV Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

36

gyeongju gyodong beopju, myeoncheon dugyeonju, and munbaeju, were designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

Administration, recommended in November 1985, â€œâ€Śto designate

37

Gyeongju Gyodong Beopju (Legal Liquor from Gyo-dong, Gyeongju)

Gyeongju Gyodong Beopju

Origin and Transmission Gyeongju gyodong beopju, a liquor produced in Gyo-dong in the FLW\ RI *\HRQJMX ZDV ¿UVW WUDQVPLWWHG E\ &KRL *XN VHRQ WKH WK generation grandfather of Choi Gyeong, who is the current master for brewing skills of the liquor, which were designated by the Korean government as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage. Choi Gukseon was responsible for the royal table for the king during the reign of King Sukjong (r. 1674–1720).

The word beopju OLWHUDOO\ PHDQV ³OHJDO OLTXRUV´ DQG UHIHUV WR alcohols originating from the royal court; the royal court made liquors on dates set according to established laws and regulations. Brewing skills for gyeongju gyodong beopju had been transmitted through the Choi family for more than 300 years before the designation. As its original produced in the royal court, gyeongju gyodong beopju

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

embodies the archetype of traditional Korean alcoholic beverages,

38

39

the principal reason for its designation as cultural heritage at the state level.

Making Process

Making Nuruk

Gyeongju gyodong beopju is a kind of sungok cheongju (a clear rice wine made only from rice). Porridge made of glutinous rice and nuruk are mixed to produce the primary mash to which is added godubap made of glutinous rice and water to make the secondary mash. The mash is fermented for 50 days and aged for more than 100 days to produce gyeongju gyodong beopju. The harmonious mixture RI LQJUHGLHQWV LQ WKH ULJKW SURSRUWLRQ GHWHUPLQHV LWV ÀDYRU FRORU DQG

:KROH JUDLQ ZKHDW LV WKRURXJKO\ JURXQG DQG ÂżQHO\ VLIWHG PL[HG P with rice porridge, and pressed into a frame to make nuruk. ukk.. Thee shaped nuruk is germinated with fungi for two to three days buried under rice straw or wormwood at a temperature of 30 to 35 degrees Celsius. When yellowish fungi are growing from the center, the QXUXN LV GULHG XQGHU WKH VXQ DQG WKHQ WKRURXJKO\ FUXVKHG DQG ÂżQHO\ sifted.

scent.

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

40

10

09 _ Godubap laid out on straw mats for cooling.

10 _ Nuruk is put in a mold and pressed into the desired shape.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

09

41

Making the Primary Mash The primary mash consists of rice porridge and nuruk. To make rice porridge, glutinous rice is soaked in water and boiled for about 30 minutes, continuously stirring with a rice paddle. When rice grains absorb enough water and disintegrate, the porridge is scooped into a wide-mouthed pot for cooling down.

A jar is thoroughly cleaned and sterilized with smoke from burning rice straw. When the rice porridge completely cools down, it is evenly mixed with nuruk powder. The mixture is placed in a jar, and brewing water is poured in. The ratio of rice porridge to nuruk and brewing water is 6:1:3 (six parts porridge, 1 part nuruk, and 3 parts water). The jar is covered with hemp cloth, and a blanket is draped over it for one night.

With the temperature maintained at 30 degrees Celsius, the mash XQGHUJRHV DFWLYH IHUPHQWDWLRQ LQ WKUHH WR ÂżYH GD\V DIWHU ZKLFK WKH jar is moved to an airy location for more fermentation for seven days.

12

11, 12 _ Godubap of glutinous rice and nuruk powder are mixed together to make the primary mash.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

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11

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When cooled down, the godubap is added to the primary mash and brewing water. In a jar, nuruk powder is spread on the bottom, then the mixture is put inside, and nuruk powder again is spread on top of the mixture. The jar is covered with a blanket and kept at the constant temperature of 28 to 30 degrees Celsius.

7KH VRXQGV RI FDUERQ GLR[LGH EXEEOLQJ XS DUH KHDUG IRU WKH ÂżUVW three days of the secondary fermentation. Afterwards, the sounds grow weak, and the swollen-up mash collapses. The completion RI WKH ÂżUVW SKDVH RI WKH VHFRQGDU\ IHUPHQWDWLRQ LV LQGLFDWHG E\ WKH formation of a ring mark around the inside of the jar where the mash ZDV PRVW VZROOHQ :KHQ WKH ÂżUVW SKDVH IHUPHQWDWLRQ LV FRPSOHWHG the jar is shifted to a spot of cool breezes for the second-phase fermentation for 10 days.

13

Making the Secondary Mash The secondary mash is made based on the primary mash. The primary mash is mixed with hard-cooked glutinous rice, nuruk, and water, and put in a jar for the secondary fermentation of 10 days to make the secondary mash. The ratio of hard-cooked glutinous rice to the primary mash and brewing water is 8:3:6.

of rice is added to the steamer each time the steam goes off. When the rice is properly steamed, the godubap is spread on a straw mat Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

44

to cool down.

13 _ The secondary mash is undergoing fermentation.

14

14, 15 _ Godubap made of glutinous rice is added to the primary mash to make the secondary mash.

15

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

For the secondary mash, the rice is not boiled all at once; 18 liters

45

Planting Yongsu (Cylindrical Sifter) 8VHG WR ÂżOWHU WKH PDVK IRU H[WUDFWLQJ OLTXRU yongsu is a cylindrical basket of densely woven bamboo strips or rice straw. When yellowish water is detected around a ring mark formed on the inside of a fermentation jar, it is time to plant a yongsu inside the mash.

It should be inserted in the middle of the mash without disturbing LW DQG WKHQ LW WDNHV RQH RU WZR GD\V EHIRUH FOHDU OLTXLG ¿OOV XS WKH F\OLQGULFDO VLIWHU 'HSHQGLQJ RQ WKH WDVWH FRORU DQG ÀDYRU RI WKH ¿OWHUHG OLTXLG WKH SHULRG RI DJLQJ LV GHFLGHG 7KH ¿OWHUHG OLTXLG LV usually contained in another jar and left for about one month in a cool spot, maintaining a constant temperature.

16 _ Yongsu, cylindrical sifters, await being planted in the mash.

17 _ Clear liquor ďŹ lls up the cylindrical sifter.

46

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

17

47 16

A Breathing, Living Liquid 3RVVHVVLQJ JHQWOH DURPDV DQG ULFK ÀDYRUV J\HRQJMX J\RGRQJ beopju imparts a sensation of a breathing, living liquid. Served to the king or used for ceremonial rites for ancestors, it was a highgrade liquor brewed according to strict procedures and practices during the whole production period of about 100 days. To make gyeongju gyodong beopju, a date is set beforehand, and the brewer’s body is scrubbed and washed thoroughly. Throughout DERXW GD\V RI IHUPHQWLQJ ¿OWHULQJ DQG DJLQJ KHDUW DQG PLQG are fully engaged in making the liquor. The long sustained efforts endow the liquor with the best taste and fragrance. :KHQ ¿QLVKHG J\HRQJMX J\RGRQJ EHRSMX KDV D \HOORZLVK EXW FOHDU FRORU D JHQWOH IUDJUDQFH DQG VZHHW ÀDYRU ZLWK D WLQJH RI sourness. A little sticky, a drop of the liquor on the tip of the tongue immediately gives the sensation of superb tastes. With a relatively high alcohol content of 17 percent, gyeongju gyodong beopju is smooth and mellow, and even heavy drinking leaves no hangover.

A good liquor comes with accompanying side dishes.

Transmitted within the Choi family for a long period, gyeongju gyodong beopju is traditionally matched with a variety of side seasonings and diverse ingredients such as croakers, octopus, ear shells, oysters, and other seafood, and shredded red peppers are XVHG LQ SODFH RI UHG SHSSHU SRZGHU 3ODLQ DQG FOHDQ WDVWLQJ ÀDYRUV of sayeonji go well with deep and rich tastes of gyeongju gyodong Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

48

beopju.

18 _ Gyeongju gyodong beopju served with a snack.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

dishes. Among them is sayeonji, a kind of kimchi wrapped around

49

18

Myeoncheon Dugyeonju (Azalea Liquor from Myeoncheon)

Origin and Transmission

Myeoncheon Dugyeonju

Myeoncheon dugyeonju, or an azalea liquor from Myeoncheon, was a seasonal liquor that households across the country made in spring ZKHQ D]DOHD ÀRZHUV DUH EORRPLQJ &RPSDUHG WR J\HRQJMX J\RGRQJ beopju that has been transmitted as a family secret, the azalea liquor from Myeoncheon has a longer history and a broader consumer base.

The history of the azalea liquor is traced back to 1,200 years ago, suggesting that home brewing by private families already existed around that time. As the most representative gahyangju, myeoncheon GXJ\HRQMX LV PDGH WKURXJK D XQLTXH EUHZLQJ PHWKRG XVLQJ ÀRZHU petals. No example of this is known in any other country.

The origin of myeoncheon dugyeonju is told in a story related to the founding of the Goryeo Dynasty. According to the story, the azalea liquor was made by a daughter of one of the contributors to the establishment of the Goryeo Dynasty by Wanggeon in 918, suffering from an unknown illness, took a rest in Myeoncheon, his hometown, his 17-year-old daughter Yeong-rang ceaselessly prayed for his recovery at Mt. Amisan for 100 days. Then she received an oracle from a deity in her dream that he would recover from the

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

50

severe illness if he took liquor made of glutinous rice and azalea petals blooming on Mt. Amisan, and aged for 100 days. The deity added that brewing water should come from Ansaem Spring, and two ginkgo trees should be planted to be prayed at. When Yeong-

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

for the purpose of curing her ailing father. When Bok Ji-gyeom,

51

rang brewed liquor following the deity’s directions and offered it to her father, Bok Ji-gyeom immediately recovered from the disease.

From then on, myeoncheon dugyeonju was called a medicinal liquor WKDW ZDV PDGH ZLWK WKH GDXJKWHU¶V VWURQJ ¿OLDO SLHW\ WR VDYH KHU father’s life. The liquor making method and major ingredients are VSHFL¿HG LQ WKH VWRU\ The names of the places in this story where liquor ingredients were secured still exist in the Myeoncheon area. Ansaem Spring Chungcheong Province. The spring maintains its temperature at 14 to 15 degrees Celsius year-round, always providing perfect brewing water. Mt. Amisan which Yeong-rang climbed regularly to pray Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

52

is 349.5 meters above sea level, the highest mountain in Dangjin, straddling today’s administrative boundaries between Myeoncheonmyeon and Sunseong-myeon. Azaleas still bloom in profusion on Mt. Amisan in spring.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

is located in Seongsang-ri, Myeoncheon-myeon, Dangjin, South

53

town has been transmitting the practice of making and enjoying one alcoholic drink. Myeoncheon dugyeonju was originally started by one family and then spread throughout the area, and is now established as the representative local liquor for Myeoncheon.

19

After being transmitted in and around Myeoncheon-myeon for a long period, brewing skills for myeoncheon dugyeonju were designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage in 1986. The ¿UVW PDVWHU ZDV 3DUN 6HXQJ J\X ZKRVH IDPLO\ PDGH P\HRQFKHRQ dugyeonju through four generations. On his death in 2001, the production and sales of the azalea liquor were temporarily halted.

In March 2003, the Cultural Heritage Administration embarked on efforts to form an association of azalea liquor brewers in the Myeoncheon area. Eight exemplary brewers and 16 individuals making the azalea liquor were set up. Accordingly, a safeguarding association for the azalea liquor was established in October 2004, and the association was designated as the responsible group for transmitting the relevant skills in place of individual masters.

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

54

0DNLQJ DQ DOFRKROLF EHYHUDJH XVLQJ D]DOHD ÀRZHUV KDV WDNHQ URRW DV a tradition in the Myeoncheon area, a rare example where an entire 20

19 _ Toxic stamens and pistils are removed from azalea flowers.

20 _ Azalea-flavored myeoncheon dugyeonju and rice cakes.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

were selected through nominations, and standardized procedures for

55

Making Process Myeoncheon dugyeonju is made by the same method as cheongju, EXW ZLWK WKH DGGLWLRQ RI D]DOHD ÀRZHUV 7KH EUHZLQJ SURFHVV LV similar to gyeongju gyodong beopju, but with key differences in the ingredients used: brewing water is drawn from Ansaem Spring, and D]DOHD ÀRZHUV DUH DGGHG WR PDNH D]DOHD OLTXRU

Preparation ,Q VSULQJ ZKHQ D]DOHDV DUH EORRPLQJ D]DOHD ÀRZHUV DUH SOXFNHG from Mt. Amisan, poisonous stamens and pistils are immediately UHPRYHG DQG WKH ÀRZHUV DUH GULHG LQ D VKDG\ DQG ZLQG\ SODFH Dried-up azalea petals are stored in a paper bag and taken out little E\ OLWWOH ZKHQ QHHGHG $]DOHD ÀRZHUV ZHUH RULJLQDOO\ QRW ZDVKHG EXW HYHU\ SHWDO LV ULQVHG LQ ÀRZLQJ ZDWHU WKHVH GD\V WR UHPRYH GXVW and pesticide residue.

22

:KROH JUDLQ ZKHDW ÀRXU LV PL[HG ZLWK ZDWHU IURP $QVDHP Spring to make a nuruk dough which is then pressed in a frame.

The shaped nuruk is buried under rice straw for two to three days under the sun for several days to be ready as an ingredient for the azalea liquor.

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

One day before making the primary mash, a jar is readied. The jar is cleaned thoroughly and dried, and sterilized by the smoke from burning wormwood.

21 _ Azalea owers picked from Mt. Amisan.

22 _ Whole grain wheat is ground in a millstone.

56

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

until yellowish fungi are fully grown. The germinated nuruk is dried

57 21

25

23

Making the Primary Mash Godubap is mixed with nuruk to make the primary mash. Cleaned glutinous rice is soaked in water for eight hours, and then rinsed and drained. The rice is cooked on a steamer for one hour, and the hardcooked rice is scattered on a wrapping cloth to cool down to 15 to 18 degrees Celsius.

blended with 2 liters of water and 2.6 kilograms of nuruk.

Azalea petals are laid on the bottom of a jar, and then the mixture Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

58

of rice, water, and nuruk is put in, which is then topped with azalea ÀRZHUV 7KH MDU LV SODFHG LQ D EUHH]\ VSRW IRU IHUPHQWDWLRQ RI WZR WR 24

three days. One week later when the temperature inside the jar rises to 40 degrees Celsius, it is time to make the secondary mash.

23 _ Godubap cooling down.

24 _ Nuruk dough is pressed to shape in a mold.

25 _ The primary mash is layered by azalea petals.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

To make the primary mash, 2.4 kilograms of glutinous rice is

59

Making the Secondary Mash The starch source for the secondary mash is also glutinous rice as in the primary mash. Glutinous rice is hard-cooked. To 80 kilograms of hard-cooked rice is mixed the primary mash, 40 liters of water, and 2.6 kilograms of nuruk. $ MDU LV OD\HUHG ZLWK D]DOHD ÀRZHUV DW WKH ERWWRP DQG WKHQ ¿OOHG ZLWK WKH PL[WXUH ZKLFK LV FRYHUHG ZLWK D]DOHD ÀRZHUV 7KLV ZRXOG produce good fragrances and colors for the liquor, and if azalea petals are blended with the mixture, the liquor would have medicinal HIIHFWV 7KH PRUH D]DOHD ÀRZHUV WKH ELJJHU WKH PHGLFLQDO HIIHFWV WKH liquor would have.

The jar is covered with hemp or cotton cloth and a lid. The VHFRQGDU\ PDVK LV IHUPHQWHG IRU ÂżYH WR VHYHQ GD\V DQG WKHQ moved to a breezy place for further fermentation for 75 days. When fermentation is done, a yongsu sifter is planted in the mash to extract clean rice wine which is aged for 14 days before consumption.

26 26 _ The primary mash is mixed with godubap to make the secondary mash.

27 _ Myeoncheon dugyeonju is ready for fermentation.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

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60

27

61

Flowery Intoxication ,Q .RUHD PRXQWDLQV DQG ¿HOGV DUH FRYHUHG LQ SLQN ZKHQ D]DOHDV come into bloom every spring. At this time of the year, people went RQ SLFQLFV WR HQMR\ WKH D]DOHD EORVVRPV WKH\ ZRXOG PDNH ÀRZHU\ ornaments with bunches of azaleas and eat azalea cakes. Azalea is DQ HGLEOH ÀRZHU XVHG IRU D YDULHW\ RI GLVKHV EXW XVLQJ LW LQ PDNLQJ OLTXRU LV WKH EHVW ZD\ WR DSSUHFLDWH WKH ÀRZHUœV IUDJUDQFH About 30 years ago, azalea liquors were made across the country with slightly differing brewing methods in each household and enjoyed by people from all walks of life. The Myeoncheon area was SDUWLFXODUO\ UHQRZQHG IRU WKH ÀRZHU\ DOFRKRO 7UDQVPLWWHG XQWLO WKH present, the azalea liquor from Myeoncheon uses glutinous rice as the starch source and undergoes two fermentations with nuruk added for each fermentation. It takes about 100 days to brew myeoncheon dugyeonju: a relatively short period of seven days for fermenting the primary mash, a longer time of 75 days for fermenting the secondary mash, and 14 days for aging before drinking the liquor.

Myeoncheon dugyeonju has a mysterious, light-yellowish color and profound fragrance. With a relatively high alcohol content of SHUFHQW WKH D]DOHD OLTXRU KDV D VXEWOH WDVW\ ÀDYRU *OXWLQRXV ULFH palate.

It is known that the azalea liquor gives relief for such symptoms Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

62

as postnasal drip, neuralgia, back pains, and fatigue. It has been UHFHQWO\ VFLHQWL¿FDOO\ SURYHQ WKDW H[WUDFWV IURP D]DOHD ÀRZHUV RU compounds created during fermentation have medicinal effects for maintaining good health.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

used as the main ingredient gives it a starchy texture, good for the

63

Munbaeju (Wild Pear Liquor)

Origin and Transmission

Munbaeju

Munbaeju, or wild pear liquor, originated from Pyongyang, in the present-day North Korea, during the Goryeo Dynasty. During the UHLJQ RI .LQJ 7DHMR U Âą RIÂżFLDOV FRPSHWHG WR JLYH JLIWV of liquor to the king in order to win high positions in the court, and the person who offered munbaeju was endowed with the highestranking title. Since then, munbaeju was made for the king and then spread to the general public in the late Goryeo period.

Pyongyang is notorious for freezing weather in winter, and therefore people there enjoyed alcoholic spirits. Munbaeju is a kind of distilled spirit, or soju, with a high alcohol content. Sorghum and millet native to Pyongyang are used as the starch source. During the Joseon Dynasty when the traditional liquor culture was at its SHDN HYHQ FRPPRQHUV HQMR\HG OX[XU\ DOFRKROV PDGH LQ D VLPSOLÂżHG process, and the upper class developed the practice of distilling brewed alcohols. In this context, munbaeju became wildly popular.

28 _ A ďŹ eld of sorghum.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

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28

65

Munbaeju has been transmitted to Master Lee Gi-chun, the ¿IWK JHQHUDWLRQ JUDQGVRQ RI LWV RULJLQDWRU /HH 6HRN VHXQJ DV D secret liquor in the Pyeongjangsa line of the Jeongju Lee clan. Lee Seok-seung built breweries in Gamheung-ri, Pyongyang, named Pyeongcheon Brewery and Daedong Brewery. The brewing skills were handed over to the daughter-in-law of Lee Seok-seung, which were transmitted for the next 150 years within the family. The father and grandfather of Lee Gi-chun inherited the family business to UXQ WKH EUHZHULHV +LV IDWKHU /HH *\HRQJ FKDQ ÀHG VRXWK ZLWK WKH outbreak of the Korean War. After the war ended, Lee Gyeong-chan settled in Miari, Seoul, and built a brewery, producing munbaeju WUDGHPDUNHG ³*HREXNVHRQ ´ 7KH WUDQVPLVVLRQ RI PXQEDHMX QRW only shows the history of one family, but also parallels the history of traditional Korean liquors which survived turmoil and disorder from Japanese colonial rule, the Korean War, and the after-war modernization drive. Munbaeju was designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage in 1986.

Munbaeju was served at the South Korea–Soviet Union summit to the United Nations in the same year, proving its worth as a Korean WUDGLWLRQDO OLTXRU 1RW FRQ¿QHG WR WKH QDWLRQDO ERXQGDULHV WKH OLTXRU famous for its fruity scents of wild pear is exported to Japan, the Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

66

United States, and European countries.

29

29 _ Sorghum is the starch source for munbaeju.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

in 1991 and at a ceremonial party for President Roh Tae-woo’s visit

67

31

Making Process Making Watery Nuruk Wheat is usually used for making nuruk for munbaeju. Wheat is roughly ground in a millstone and mixed with water to make a nuruk dough, which is put in a frame and pressed into a shape. Nuruk is put in a cool place for the germination of fungi for 14 days and dried

What is unusual about munbaeju is that it uses watery nuruk. A jar is neatly cleaned and dried, and sterilized in boiling water. Nuruk and water are mixed inside the jar to make watery nuruk. The ratio Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

68

of nuruk and water is 3.6 liters (2 doe) to 16.6 liters (3 hop). Watery nuruk helps with the culture of yeasts and extraction of enzymes, and 30

controls the growth of unwanted bacteria. Keeping the temperature at 25 degrees Celsius, watery nuruk is left to stand for four days, and RQ WKH 多IWK GD\ LW LV XVHG IRU EUHZLQJ

30 _ Ingredients in the right proportion and consistent temperature during fermentation are essential for making quality sul.

31 _ Nuruk powder is added to a jar of water.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

under the sun.

69

Making the Primary Mash Millet is cleaned and steeped in water for one day, then put in a steamer to make hard-cooked millet. When the steamer gives off steam, water is added and the millet is brought to a boil over a strong ÂżUH IRU PLQXWHV EHIRUH WKH QH[W VWHDP :KHQ WKH PLOOHW LV SURSHUO\ cooked, it is spread on a straw mat to cool down.

When the millet is cool, it is mixed with the ready-made watery nuruk and water. The ratio of the primary mash ingredients is 27 liters (1 mal and 5 doe) of millet to 3.6 liters (2 doe) of nuruk to 16.6 33

liters (3 hop) of water.

A jar containing the mixture is draped with a blanket and put RQ D ZDUP VSRW RQ WKH KHDWHG ÀRRU IRU IHUPHQWDWLRQ RYHU WZR GD\V When the jar is uncovered, swooshing sound is heard along with bubbles surging up, and then the jar cools down while the contents are stirred with a rice paddle in the cool breeze. Proper fermentation of the primary mash is a prerequisite for quality munbaeju to acquire the scent of wild pear.

32 _ Millet is cooked in a steamer.

34

33 _ Steamed millet is added to well-fermented watery nuruk.

34 _ The mixture of millet, nuruk, and water generates bubbles during fermentation.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

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32

71

Making the Secondary Mash Sorghum is rubbed vigorously while washing to remove the red coloring and bitterness, and soaked in water for one day. Sorghum should be properly hard-boiled with grains adequately disintegrating, but not too watery. The hard-boiled sorghum is spread on a straw mat for cooling down with natural breezes. When the sorghum is cool, it is put in a wide vessel and evenly mixed with the primary mash.

The mixture is put in a jar which is draped with a blanket and put in a place with the temperature at 25 degrees Celsius. The next day when bubbles are surging up to the surface, the jar is cooled down.

Munbaeju is a type of samyangju, a grain liquor produced by fermentation for three times, since the starch sources for making it, millet and sorghum, are hard to ferment compared to rice. For munbaeju to be properly fermented, the additional mashes are to be made when fermentation in the primary mash is most active. One or two days after making the secondary mash, the tertiary mash is made with the same ingredients and in the same method as the secondary, EXW XQGHUJRHV IHUPHQWDWLRQ IRU GD\V :KHQ WKH 多UVW SKDVH fermentation slows down and the jar is cooled down, the jar is draped with a blanket for the second-phase fermentation of eight days.

35 _ Hard-cooked millet and the primary mash are mixed to make the secondary mash.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

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35

73

Distillation ,W WDNHV GD\V RI IHUPHQWDWLRQ LQ PDNLQJ PXQEDHMX ÂżYH GD\V IRU QXUXN ÂżYH GD\V IRU WKH SULPDU\ PDVK RQH GD\ IRU WKH VHFRQGDU\ mash, and 10 days for the tertiary mash. When fermentation is completed, the mash is then put in a distiller, or sojutgori, to produce the liquor spirits. Distilling is a method of extracting pure alcohol based on different boiling points between water and alcohol. The purpose of distilling is to produce clear spirits with a good fragrance and high alcohol content. Munbaeju after distilling is contained in a jar and placed in a dark place to age for six to 12 months.

36 _ After three fermentations, the brew is distilled in an earthenware vessel to make munbaeju.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

74

36

75

Ambrosial Distillate The word munbae refers to wild pear which is the size of an adult’s ¿VW DQG QRWHG IRU LWV KDUG WH[WXUH VWURQJ DURPD DQG VRXU WDVWH 7KH name munbaeju literally means liquor with the scent of wild pear, denoting that munbaeju is fragrant. What is remarkable is that the major ingredients for munbaeju are just grains and nuruk, but the ¿QDO SURGXFW KDV D IUDJUDQFH EH\RQG ZKDW WKH RULJLQDO LQJUHGLHQWV had to start with, compared to myeoncheon dugyeonju which is made with the addition of an aromatic source, azalea petals.

With a high alcohol content of 40 percent, munbaeju is not poisonous, but has sour and sweet tastes. One cup of munbaeju gives RII DQ LQWHQVH SHDU VFHQW DQG D VPRRWK ÀDYRU ZKLFK DUH DWWULEXWDEOH to three fermentations, distillation, and a long period of aging.

Munbaeju is a sungok soju (a distilled spirit made only from grains). Soju is made by distilling brewed liquors in a steamer or a distilling pot. Most of the traditional Korean alcoholic beverages are brewed liquors with a low alcohol content of 11 to 19 percent and therefore have a short storage life. To make up for this shortcoming of brewing, distilling was developed. Distilled spirits usually have a longer period without going bad. Munbaeju is a rare example of a grain liquor which undergoes three fermentations. Samyanju is such a liquor which is usually consumed after three fermentations, but munbaeju is further processed by distilling after three fermentations, Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

76

UHVXOWLQJ LQ XQLTXH ÀDYRUV FRPLQJ IURP YRODWLOH PDWHULDOV FUHDWHG during distillation.

Sul Designated as Important Intangible Cultural Heritage

more than 20 percent alcohol content and therefore can be stored for

77 77

Sul in Art and Customs

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

Sul in Art and Customs

78

79

3

Sul and Art

Sul in Art and Customs Artists The Korean people’s love for drinking punctuated by singing and dancing has long roots, reaching back to the nation’s beginnings.

People would drink, sing, and dance at harvest ceremonies in ancient chiefdoms that occupied the Korean Peninsula and part of China. :KHQ SHRSOH ZHUH HODWHG XQGHU WKH LQĂ€XHQFH RI DOFRKRO WKH RULJLQDO religious atmosphere gave way to artistry embodied in poems, songs, and dances. Drink-induced exhilaration is very much in evidence in Korean art since ancient times. Many artists were inspired by drunken delight, and love of drinking was depicted in many poems and pictures that form part of Korean artistic legacy.

The writer Lee Gyu-bo (1168–1241) from the Goryeo Dynasty never composed poems without alcohol. He reported in Dongguk isangguk jip (Anthology of Writings by Mr. Lee in the East Country), “Enough drinking would lift spirits and relieve the body to induce singing and dancing ‌ the singing and dancing are directed by DOFRKRO ´ ,Q Guk seonsaeng jeon (Story on Mr. Nuruk KH SHUVRQLÂżHG liquor.

80

Sul in Art and Customs

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

Title page_Banquet scene from The Folding Book of the 60th Anniversary of Marriage (Collection of the National Museum of Korea) by Author Unknown.

37 _ Danwondo (Picture by Danwon; Personal Collection) by Kim Hong-do

81 37

A talent for writing poems was considered a fundamental

and sorrows of commoners. He expressed the emotions of the poor

TXDOLÂżFDWLRQ IRU VFKRODUV GXULQJ WKH -RVHRQ '\QDVW\ ,W ZDV QDWXUDO

traveler who had to satisfy his hunger with a cup of liquor in his

for them to compose literary works while enjoying drinking: scholars

poem In a Tavern, “Walking a long distance dependent only on a

would write poems stimulated by alcohol at composing contests or

stick ‌ seven coins in the pocket are rather too many ‌ determined

away from worldly life, amid nature.

to keep them deep in the pocket ‌ but there is no other choice when HQFRXQWHULQJ GULQNV DW D WDYHUQ DW VXQVHW ´

Yun Seon-do (1587–1671) and Jeong Cheol (1536–1593) were the two greatest rival poets of Joseon, and both loved drinking.

7KH OLWHUDU\ RIÂżFLDO /HH +\HRQ ER Âą IURP WKH PLG

Yun Seon-do described the romance of drinking in nature in

Joseon period depicted a carefree and exciting atmosphere enjoying

Sanjungsingok (Serial Poets from the Heart of Mountains), “Sitting

DOFRKRO RQ D ÀRDWLQJ ERDW ³'L]]LO\ VLQJLQJ DQG VZLIWO\ GDQFLQJ E\

alone in nature and looking away at a mountain with a drink in hand

themselves ‌ who asked them to do so?... who is the ruler and who

‌ the joyfulness is much bigger than meeting with the lover ‌

are the subjects?... the son-in-law dances with the father-in-law, and

FU\LQJ RU VD\LQJ ZKDWHYHU LW LV DOO EULQJV DERXW GHOLJKW ´

VHUYDQWV H[FKDQJH OLTXRU FXSV ´

Jeong Cheol composed a poem regretting his excessive drinking,

Some of the famous painters were addressed by nicknames

but never abandoned his love of alcohol. He wrote in Jangjinju

PHDQLQJ ³DOFRKRO ORYHUV ´ .LP +RQJ GR ¹" WKH PRVW IDPRXV

(Offering Drinks) which was widely popular with alcohol lovers,

artist of the Joseon Dynasty, was called chwihwasa, “a drunken

“Have one more drink and one more drink ‌ counting the number

SDLQWHU ´ 8QGHU WKH LQÀXHQFH RI GULQN KH FUHDWHG D PDVWHUSLHFH

RI GULQNV E\ FXWWLQJ ÀRZHU SHWDOV GULQN WR WKH XWPRVW  ZKHQ WKH

drawn in one stroke, titled Jijang gimado (Riding on Horseback). On

body dies, it would be carried away, covered with a straw mat, and

the empty space of the picture he wrote, “A person who would sleep

tied tight to the carrier ‌ when whirlwinds blow, to whom could

HYHQ ZKHQ IDOOLQJ LQWR D ZHOO ZKLOH ULGLQJ RQ KRUVHEDFN DQG GUXQN ´

38

GULQNV EH RIIHUHG"´ Kim Myeong-guk (1600–?), renowned for the picture Dalmado Kim Byeong-yeon (1807–1863), a wandering poet popularly

(Bodhidharma), was called chwiong D ³GUXQNHQ HOGHU ´

known as Kim Satgat named after a traditional bamboo hat he always wore, spent his whole life wandering around the country and composing poems satirizing the upper class and writings on the joys

Sul in Art and Customs

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82

38 _ Portrait of Yi Hyeon-bo by Okjun Sangin (Personal Collection).

83

Paintings Many of the genre paintings from the Joseon Dynasty feature diverse types of people drinking at a variety of occasions: decorous scholars 39

ŠGansong Art Museum

enjoying leisure and the tasteful life, commoners in humorous situations, and festival scenes. These paintings speak volumes about who mingled with whom and how they enjoyed their drink at

Jang Seung-eop (1843–1897), a famous artist from the late

what occasions. Korean ancestors enjoyed drinking sometimes in a

Joseon period, was called chwihwaseon, meaning a drunken deity.

noisy and lively atmosphere, and sometimes secluded in nature and

+H GUHZ SDLQWLQJV RQO\ ZKHQ KH ZDV H[FLWHG XQGHU WKH LQĂ€XHQFH RI

appreciating the surrounding environment.

drink. A free-spirited man, he ran away from the royal palace and its rules several times while painting for the king.

Besides these luminaries, there are further examples of intellectuals who are famously recalled in anecdotes related to drinking. During the reign of King Seongjong (1470â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1497), the OLWHUDU\ RIÂżFLDO 6LQ <RQJ JDH Âą VKDUHG GULQNV ZLWK FKU\VDQWKHPXP Ă&#x20AC;RZHUV SODFHG LQ IURQW RI KLP 7KH OLWHUDU\ RIÂżFLDO Son Sun-hyo (1427â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1497), known as a man of integrity and an DOFRKRO ORYHU RQ WKH NLQJÂśV RUGHU ZURWH DQ RIÂżFLDO OHWWHU WR EH VHQW WR &KLQD LQ D Ă&#x20AC;XHQW DQG Ă&#x20AC;RZHU\ VW\OH HYHQ LQ D GUXQNHQ VWDWH 7KH king offered him a silver cup and said, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Only one cup of alcohol a GD\ ´ 5HFHLYLQJ WKH VPDOO FXS KRZHYHU 6RQ KDPPHUHG LW WKLQ LQWR a large bowl and had, as the king ordered, just one bowl of strong liquor a day.

Koreans as a people have long enjoyed drinking and quite naturally sublimated drunken joy into artistry.

Š The Korean Christian Museum of Soongsil University

40

Sul in Art and Customs

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84

39 _ Noksuseongyeong (Teaching the Sacred Book to a Deer) by Jang Seung-eop, depicting a deity sitting under the shade of a pine tree giving holy teachings to a deer.

40 _ Men Drinking Unrefined Liquor by Kim Jun-geun.

85

Jusageobae (Holding a Drinking Party; Collection of the Gansong Art Museum) by Sin Yun-bok (1758â&#x20AC;&#x201C;?) describes a seonsuljip, a standing pub. Customers remain standing, giving their orders to the barmaid. The young hatless boy shown on the left is a servant for this pub. The cost of side dishes was included in the price of liquor during the Joseon Dynasty, and a customer received one serving of side dish for one cup of liquor at a seonsuljip. When a customer asked for a drink, the lady bartender scooped liquor from a jar into the customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cup, and the boy servant served him a side dish, keeping count on the number of cups the customer consumed.

Š National Museum of Korea

41

Jumak (Tavern; Collection of the National Museum of Korea)

by Kim Hong-do depicts a jumak, a pub or inn frequented by commoners. At the entrance was pasted a sign with the Chinese character� (ju), meaning liquor, or a hanging paper lamp. Jumak ZHUH ORFDWHG DW WUDI¿F KXEV VHOOLQJ DOFRKROLF EHYHUDJHV DQG ULFH DQG place for the exchange of information.

Sul in Art and Customs

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

providing lodging. They served as a place of entertainment and a

41 _ Jumak (Tavern) by Kim Hong-do.

42 _ Jusageobae (Holding a Drinking Party) by Sin Yun-bok.

86

87 Š Gansong Art Museum

42

Saekjuga (Shady Lady Bar; Collection of the Hamburg Museum of Anthropology) by Kim Jun-geun (?â&#x20AC;&#x201C;?) shows a saekjuga, a drinking house where women served customers. Unlike gisaeng who entertained customers with noble songs and poetry, the women at a saekjuga curry favor with them with earthly songs. The entrance to such an establishment was marked with a yongsu, or a cylindrical VLIWHU IRU ÂżOWHULQJ OLTXRU FRYHUHG ZLWK D KDW KDQJLQJ QH[W WR D ODPS

Daekwaedo (Picture of Great Pleasure; Collection of the Seoul National University Museum) by Yu Suk (1827â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1873) shows a liquor peddler on the sidelines of a martial arts performance. Liquor peddlers sought crowded places to sell alcoholic beverages.

Sul in Art and Customs

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

43 _Daekwaedo (Picture of Great Pleasure) by Yu Suk.

88

89 Š Seoul National University Museum

43

44

Š Gansong Art Museum

Hongnudaeju (Waiting for Liquor at a Bar; Collection of the

Scholars used to invite gisaeng home for a drinking party rather

Gansong Art Museum) by Sin Yun-bok paints a gibang, the highest-

than be seen visiting gibang. Cheonggeumsangryeon (Listening

class drinking house during the Joseon Dynasty where trained

to a Zither and Enjoying Lotuses; Collection of the Gansong Art

entertainers, or gisaeng, sang and danced to please customers. At a

Museum) by Sin Yun-bok depicts scholars being entertained by

gibang, strangers sat together to share one gisaeng as in this picture

gisaeng, enjoying the sounds of a gayageum, a 12-string zither,

ZKHUH WKUHH FXVWRPHUV Ă&#x20AC;RFN DURXQG RQH ODG\ :KHQ D FXVWRPHU

ZKLOH YLHZLQJ ORWXV Ă&#x20AC;RZHUV 7KH LQVFULSWLRQ RQ WKH XSSHU SDUW RI WKH

asked the gisaeng to sing, he had to secure agreement from those

SLFWXUH UHDGV Âł1RWKLQJ WR ZRUU\ DERXW ZLWK JXHVWV IXOO RQ WKH Ă&#x20AC;RRU

who sat with him.

DQG OLTXRU IXOO LQ WKH MDU ´

44 _Hongnudaeju (Waiting for Liquor at a Bar) by Sin Yun-bok.

45 _Cheonggeumsangryeon (Listening to a Zither and Enjoying Lotuses) by Sin Yun-bok.

Sul in Art and Customs

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

90

45

Š Gansong Art Museum

91

Š Korea University Museum

47

Scholars valued a tasteful life, enjoying drinking in the company

Scholars would hold an ahoe, a gathering of writers to compose

of nature. Drunken under Flowers (Collection of the Korea

poems together, and recorded the occasion by painting pictures.

University Museum) by Jeong Seon (1676â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1759) features an old

Kim Hong-do hosted an ahoe by inviting guests to his house and

man sitting alone sleepily on a hill in early spring. Liquor bottles

memorialized the gathering by painting Danwondo (Picture by

scattered around the man indicates that he is drunk.

Danwon; Personal Collection).

46 _Drunken under Flowers by Jeong Seon.

47 _ Danwondo (Picture by Danwon; Personal Collection) by Kim Hong-do.

Sul in Art and Customs

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92

46

93

Š Gansong Art Museum

Š Korea University Museum

49

48

Juyucheonggang (Boating on a Clear River; Collection of the Gansong Art Museum) by Sin Yun-bok shows scholars enjoying music and the company of women on a leisurely boat ride. On the Suhachwimyeondo (Drunken Sleep under a Tree; Collection of the Korea University Museum) by Yi Gyeong-yun (1545â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1611) shows a scholar falling asleep while leisurely drinking liquor in the

Ă&#x20AC;XWH Ă&#x20AC;HZ DZD\ ZLWK WKH ZLQG DQG ZKLWH VHDJXOOV DUH Ă&#x20AC;\LQJ LQ ZLWK WKH ZDYHV ´ 7KH SLFWXUH H[XGHV D OHLVXUHO\ DQG FRQYLYLDO DPELHQFH D ZRPDQ EHQGV RYHU WKH VLGH RI WKH ERDW WR WRXFK WKH Ă&#x20AC;RZLQJ ZDWHU DV a man caresses her with his eyes; a man and a woman share a tobacco pipe, the manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s arm around her shoulder; and their host watching indulgently, perhaps conjuring up poetic ideas.

48 _Suhachwimyeondo (Drunken Sleep under a Tree) by Yi Gyeong-yun.

49 _ Juyucheonggang (Boating on a Clear River) by Sin Yun-bok.

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94

shade of a tree, a contented smile on his face.

left side of the picture is an inscription: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The sounds of piri (a Korean

95

Š Gansong Art Museum

50

Daekwaedo (Picture of Great Pleasure; Collection of the Gansong Art Museum) by Kim Hu-sin (?â&#x20AC;&#x201C;?) describes drunken men in a humorous way. A group of drunken men storms into a forest in broad daylight in autumn. The man in the middle is dead drunk, his KDW NQRFNHG RII KLV KHDG DQG WKH RWKHU PHQ Ă&#x20AC;DQN KLP WR KHOS KLP walk. It is interesting that the knots on the trees behind the men are reminiscent of eyes and mouths wide-open in mock surprise.

Manwoldaegyehoedo (Picture of a Gathering at Manwoldae; Personal Collection) by Kim Hong-do shows a banquet held in KRQRU RI VHQLRU OLWHUDU\ RIÂżFLDOV 7KH SLFWXUH GHSLFWV WKH H[FLWHPHQW of the banquet in detail: 64 invited seniors are treated to individual trays of food under the awning, and surrounding bystanders take diverse postures and expressions. Some look at the feast being laid back under pine trees, matrons carry dishes, barmaids sell liquor at banquet, and baggers ask for alms.

Sul in Art and Customs

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

a street bar, some stagger from drink, young boys hurry to watch the

50 _ Daekwaedo (Picture of Great Pleasure) by Kim Hu-sin.

51 _ Manwoldaegyehoedo (Picture of a Gathering at Manwoldae; Personal Collection)

by Kim Hong-do.

96

97 51

Artifacts Wooden Juryeonggu from Unified Silla

Masangbae

:RRGHQ 'LFH IRU 'ULQNLQJ IURP 8QLÂżHG 6LOOD

(Cup Used on a Horseback)

Juryeonggu was invented for the amusement of drinking SDUWLHV IRU QREOHPHQ GXULQJ WKH 8QLÂżHG 6LOOD SHULRG (668â&#x20AC;&#x201C;935). Juryeonggu is a 14-sided dice 4.8 centimeters in diameter; on each side were written penalties for the dice thrower. The penalties include dancing without music, hitting the noses of several people, drinking liquor from a cup and laughing out loud, downing three cups of liquor in a row, standing still even when attacked, singing alone and drinking, drinking with arms bent, enduring being tickled on the face, singing songs others in the party ask for, singing a song, reciting a poem, quickly emptying two cups of liquor, holding on to dirty things, and making weird sounds. Juryeonggu was excavated from Anapji Pond, Gyeongju, but was burned during the process of conservation treatment.

Masangbae OLWHUDOO\ ³FXSV XVHG RQ KRUVHEDFN ´ ZHUH XVHG E\ VROGLHUV who had to stay on horseback in battle, and used for feasts and rituals in peacetime. The cups came in diverse shapes and materials LGHQWL¿HG ZLWK WKH KLVWRULFDO SHULRG ZKHQ WKH\ ZHUH SURGXFHG 'XULQJ the Goryeo Dynasty, they were earthenware vessels with handles and a stand, and later they were made of celadon, sometimes with inlaid designs. Celadon masangbae had a round body, a conical base, and a slightly inverted rim. During the Joseon Dynasty, buncheong or white porcelain masangbae with a tall pedestal were were

produced. also

There

wooden

masangbae from Joseon, which were embellished with naturalistic patterns of tree roots and textures.

Gyeyeongbae (Warning Fullness Cup) Gyeyeongbae OLWHUDOO\ ³IXOOQHVV ZDUQLQJ FXSV ´ DUH VHOI HPSW\LQJ when they are seven-tenths full. Gyeyeongbae had their origins from Chinese ritual vessels for worship. The scientist Ha Baek-won and the potter U Myeong-ok created a cup that empties itself when it ZDV ¿OOHG WR D FHUWDLQ OHYHO 7KLV FXS FDPH WR EH RZQHG E\ D JLIWHG keep him vigilant against excessive ambition.

Sull in Art and Customs

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98

merchant, Im Sang-ok, who is said to have kept this cup close by to

99

Sojutgori (Distiller)

Yongsu (Cylindrical Sifter)

Sojutgori, earthenware stands for distilling brewed liquor to produce

Yongsu were used in private

soju, look like a gourd with a pinched waist. They are open all

household brewing to sift

through, from top to bottom, with a long tube attached to the waist.

brewed alcohol from the mash.

They are typically about 40 to 60 centimeters long and bigger ones

They are made of bamboo

have two handles on the lower part of the body. A sojutgori is placed

strands, bush clover strands, or

on a pot for boiling brewed liquor, and the potâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lid is put upside down on top of the

rice straw densely woven in the form of a cylindrical basket. One

sojutgori. When vapors of

or two days after a youngsu is planted

liquor gather on the underside

in the middle of the fermented mash, clean

of the lid, cold water is poured

liquor is gathered inside it.

on the lid, and distilled liquor comes out through the tube, producing soju. To prevent

Sulchun (Sul Carrier)

ZDVWH RI VWHDP Ă&#x20AC;RXU GRXJK LV

Sulchun are liquor containers that were used for carrying large

plastered over the gaps between

DPRXQWV RI OLTXRU 7KH\ KDYH D VKRUW QHFN D QDUURZ ULP D Ă&#x20AC;DW

the pot and the sojutgori and between

shoulder, and a round body which narrows at the base. Made as

the sojutgori and the potâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lid. Distilling

earthenware, sulchun are very sturdy, but so heavy

crockeries are usually earthenware, but

WKDW WKH\ ZHUH XVHG RQO\ EULHĂ&#x20AC;\ PRVWO\ GXULQJ

sometimes are made of copper or

Japanese colonial rule. Some sulchun were

brass.

engraved with the names of breweries that used them.

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

Sul in Art and Customs

100

101

Sul and Customs

Seasonal Customs The Korean people have long enjoyed festivals and celebrations tied to seasonal changes throughout the year to give thanks to deities and ancestral spirits and to share joy and camaraderie with neighbors.

Sul has always been an indispensable element in the celebration of these seasonal customs. The drinks are made with different

Š Gertrud Krassen in Germany

52

ingredients in different seasons and take on different meanings on different occasions.

7KH ÂżUVW GD\ RI WKH ÂżUVW OXQDU PRQWK LV 1HZ <HDUÂśV 'D\ RU 6HROODO when Koreans visit other members of the family and neighbors to render the traditional New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bows to their elders and are treated to sechan, or New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s feast. Special dishes of rice, seafood, meat, eggs, and dried persimmons are served along with seju, or New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s liquor. Seju is mostly cheongju or yakju prepared in the summer of the previous year.

Dosoju OLWHUDOO\ ÂłOLTXRU IRU IHQGLQJ RII HYLO VSLULWV ´ LV DOVR consumed on New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day in the belief that it would defeat spirits of misfortune throughout the year. Invented by the Chinese doctor Hwata, dosoju is made by soaking powdered medicinal ingredients

7KH ¿IWHHQWK GD\ RI WKH ¿UVW OXQDU PRQWK LV 'DHERUHXP ZKHQ .RUHDQV GULQN ³HDU TXLFNHQLQJ ZLQH´ EHOLHYLQJ WKDW LW ZRXOG PDNH them quick to hear good news throughout the year. Children just sip a cup of the wine, and the leftover is poured over the chimney so that evil spirit would disappear along with smoke from the hearth.

7KH ÂżUVW GD\ RI WKH VHFRQG OXQDU PRQWK LV -XQJKZDMHRO ZKLFK signals the start of the farming season. On jungwhajeol, festivals were held for farm servants to wish for a good harvest, and they were treated to nongju, or farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; liquor. Those who had not had a coming-of-age ceremony would receive a big bowl of liquor to signify that they were now grown up, and they would be granted the same amount in wages as adults from that day on.

VXFK DV &KLQHVH SHSSHUV RU EDOORRQ Ă&#x20AC;RZHU URRW LQ FOHDU ULFH ZLQH IRU

52 _ Scene of people greeting the moon on Daeboreum from the eight-fold folding screen Gyeonjikdo (Picture of Farming Crops and Silkworms) by Author Unknown.

Sul in Art and Customs

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

102

a while, scooping them out, and then boiling the medicinal liquor.

103

The third day of the third lunar month is Samjinnal when Koreans JR RQ D SLFQLF WR HQMR\ WKH EHJLQQLQJ RI VSULQJ DQG Ă&#x20AC;RZHUV FRPLQJ to bloom. For spring picnics, the most popular alcoholic beverage LV GXJ\HRQMX PDGH RI D]DOHD Ă&#x20AC;RZHUV $URXQG WKLV WLPH RI WKH \HDU cheongmyeongju and gwahaju were also enjoyed. Cheongmyeongju, OLWHUDOO\ ÂłFOHDU FOHDQ ZLQH ´ LV D NLQG RI FKHRQJMX IHUPHQWHG IRU GD\V ,W KDV DQ LQWHQVH VZHHW Ă&#x20AC;DYRU JRRG HYHQ IRU ZHDN GULQNHUV gwahaju, which means â&#x20AC;&#x153;liquor for getting through the summer ZLWKRXW WURXEOH ´ ZDV VROG DW GULQNLQJ KRXVHV DW WKLV WLPH RI WKH \HDU In April when every living creature grows, farming starts in earnest. Individual households would hire one or two farm workers and form labor-sharing associations such as dure. Farm workers were treated to plentiful amounts of takju made of nuruk and rice.

7KH ÂżIWK GD\ RI WKH ÂżIWK OXQDU PRQWK LV 'DQR ZKHQ PHQ SOD\ EDOO and women ride swings enjoying the surrounding nature so full of vitality. Women wash their hair in water boiled with iris roots and leaves believed to chase away disease. Iris is also used for making liquor. A pack of iris roots is steeped in cheongju, so that their fragrance could be transferred to the liquor.

7KH ÂżIWHHQWK GD\ RI WKH VL[WK OXQDU PRQWK LV <XGXMHRO OLWHUDOO\ ÂłWKH GD\ ZKHQ SHRSOH ZDVK WKHLU KDLU LQ ZDWHU Ă&#x20AC;RZLQJ WR WKH HDVW ´ Avoiding summer heat, Koreans enjoyed drinking at a nearby stream.

53

Sul in Art and Customs

Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

104

53 _ Danodo (Scenes on Dano Day) by Sin Yun-bok.

Š Gansong Art Museum

105

7KH ÂżIWHHQWK GD\ RI WKH HLJKWK OXQDU PRQWK LV &KXVHRN RU Hangawi, when Koreans set a ritual table for ancestral spirits and tend the graveyards of ancestors. After sprucing up their forefathersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; tombs, foods and liquor are shared among family members. On Chuseok, a variety of alcoholic beverages are consumed, particularly dongdongju, a kind of takju made of glutinous rice and nuruk.

The ninth day of the ninth lunar month is Jungyangjeol, a double-nine day considered auspicious, bringing about energy. On this day state events were held, such as festivals honoring senior literary luminaries, and people picnicked on nearby mountains composing poems and writings surrounded by colorful maples and FKU\VDQWKHPXPV 2Q WKLV GD\ WKH\ FRQVXPHG IUXLW VDODGV Ă&#x20AC;RZHU cakes, and chrysanthemum liquor made by soaking chrysanthemum SHWDOV LQ FKHRQJMX DQG ÂżOWHULQJ LW

Ancestral rites are conducted to report the yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s accomplishments Š Gertrud Krassen in Germany

54

DURXQG WKH ÂżIWHHQWK GD\ RI WKH WHQWK OXQDU PRQWK 9LVLWLQJ WKHLU IRUHEHDUVÂś JUDYH\DUGV .RUHDQV FRQGXFW IDPLO\ ULWXDOV IRU XS WR ÂżYH generations of ancestors and share the food and alcoholic beverages

7KH ÂżIWHHQWK GD\ RI WKH VHYHQWK OXQDU PRQWK LV %DHNMXQJQDO WKH

offered at the rites.

URRW ZRUG EDHNMXQJ OLWHUDOO\ PHDQLQJ ÂłDPRQJ D KXQGUHG´ GHQRWLQJ that various kinds of fruits and vegetables are produced in large The last day of the twelfth month is called the â&#x20AC;&#x153;small New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

are arranged on a table as a ritual offering for the souls of dead

'D\ ´ ZKHQ .RUHDQV VHQG RII WKH FXUUHQW \HDU DQG ZHOFRPH WKH QHZ

ancestors. Around this time when farming is on a temporary break,

year. On this day, they pay tribute at ancestorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tombs, perform ritual

WKH ³KRH FOHDQLQJ´ FHUHPRQ\ LV REVHUYHG ZKHQ IDUP ZRUNHUV WDNH D

bows to parents and elder members of the family, and share food and

pleasant break feasting on food and liquor. Farm servants from the

alcoholic beverages.

household expecting the most abundant harvest would ride a cow and roam the village to be treated to free liquor. Some would cavort around in makeshift cow costume of straw mats, earning treats of alcohol from neighbors for their antics.

54 _ Scene of farmers and housewives carrying alcohol and food from the eight-fold folding screen Gyeonjikdo (Picture of Farming Crops and Silkworms) by Author Unknown.

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DPRXQWV DURXQG WKLV WLPH RI \HDU 9HJHWDEOHV IUXLWV ULFH DQG OLTXRU

107

Rites of Passages

Hollye (Weddings) At a wedding, the bride and the groom exchange

Sul is the most important table offering for family rituals marking

haphwanju, or nuptial cups. The bride offers

WKH IRXU VLJQLÂżFDQW OLIH PLOHVWRQHV FRPLQJ RI DJH FHUHPRQLHV

her cup to the groom, and in return the groom

weddings, funerals, and ancestral rituals.

offers his cup to the bride. Then, they exchange cups. Since nuptial cups symbolize a happy

Gwallye (Coming-of-age Ceremonies)

union lasting throughout life, even the bride

Gwallye is a coming-of-age ceremony to mark the transition from

who cannot drink should at least wet her lips

childhood to adulthood. Mostly taking place between the ages of

from haphwanju. After the wedding ceremony,

15 to 20, boys would wear a gat, a traditional Korean hat, and girls

the bride and the groom enter a room where

a chignon secured with a binyeo, a traditional Korean ornamental

juansang, a table set with liquor and side dishes,

hairpin. Even though unmarried, they are received as adults after a

awaits to break the ice between them.

Š National Museum of Korea

55

coming-of-age ceremony.

Since a wedding ceremony is traditionally held at the brideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Before the ceremony, the youth visits the familyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ancestral

house, the couple goes to the groomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s house after one night together.

shrine to notify forebears of the transition to adulthood by offering

Upon arriving at the groomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s house, the bride sets a table of chicken,

fruits and alcoholic beverages. A guest of honor is invited to preside

chestnuts, fruits, and side dishes brought from her house along with

at the ceremony and play a similar role as a baptismal godfather in

alcoholic beverages.

Christian rites, selected from among friends of the head of the family as a gentle and courteous guardian.

Wedding guests are treated to honsatsul, or wedding liquor. The process of making the wedding liquor requires the utmost attention

Gwallye consists of three steps. First, the celebrant wears three

and care. Guests are expected to judge the wedding foods and the

different types of adult attire in a row, denoting separation from

coupleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s appearance, and a positive evaluation of the wedding liquor

childhood and entrance into adulthood. Second, he is given liquor to

is believed to bring about a lifetime of good fortune to the couple.

drink. When the guest of honor offers a cup of liquor after delivering a ceremonial speech, the celebrant bows twice to the guest of honor, receives the cup, puts it on the table for a while, picks it up, takes a sip, hands it over to a ceremonial assistant, and then again bows associated with the start of a new status or a new relationship. Third, the guest of honor endows a new name to the youth to make a fresh start as an adult.

55 _ Picture of Lifetime Ceremonies by Author Unknown.

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to the guest of honor. The procedure symbolizes that drinking is

109

Sangnye (Funerals)

Jerye (Ancestral Rituals)

Koreans do not think of death as the end of life, but believe that

Observing ancestral rites is a deeply traditional

people would complete this life, and the dead would go back to their

cultural practice in Korea. Ceremonial rituals for

original place of existence before birth into this life. That is why

forebears are conducted on seasonal customary

funerals are conducted both with sorrow and pleasure.

festivals such as New Yearâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day, Hansik falling in April, Dano, and Chuseok, and the dates of birth and

Sangnye starts and ends with liquor. Family members, friends, and neighbors visit the funeral home to offer their condolences and

death of ancestors. Flourishing families carried out

57

more ancestral rituals.

stay up all night drinking together as a way of sharing their sadness $ ULWXDO WDEOH LV ÂżOOHG ZLWK RIIHULQJV RI OLTXRU IUXLWV DQG MHUNHG

and warding off bad fortune.

meat, and cups of liquor are offered after kowtows. Three cups of $ERXW SHRSOH FDUU\ WKH FRIÂżQ FRQWDLQLQJ WKH ERG\ WR WKH

OLTXRU DUH RIIHUHG WKH ÂżUVW E\ WKH HOGHVW VRQ RI WKH IDPLO\ ZKR ZRXOG

graveyard while singing. The funeral party does not head directly for

then read a memorial address, the second by his wife, and the third

the graveyard, but stops by each of the places frequented by the dead

by the oldest member of the family. After the third cup, the cups

person, where a liquor table is set for a farewell ceremony, and the

DUH ÂżOOHG WR WKH EULP RQFH DJDLQ DQG GHVFHQGDQWV VWHS EDFN IURP

pallbearers and people in the funeral procession have drinks together.

the table so that ancestral spirits enjoy the meal undisturbed. With

7KH FRIÂżQ LV ÂżQDOO\ ODLG LQ WKH JUDYH DQG SRXUHG ZLWK OLTXRU DQG WKHQ

WKH ÂżQDO NRZWRZ WKH ULWXDO LV FRPSOHWHG DQG WKH IRRGV DQG GULQNV

people bow before a table set with liquor in front of the grave upon

removed from the table are shared among family members as a way

completion of the burial.

of sharing the blessings from their ancestors.

In the past families privately brewed their own alcoholic beverages for ancestral rituals. Koreans believed that if ritual liquor was not made properly or went bad, bad fortune would come to them. Therefore, they paid every care and attention to the making of drinks for rituals.

110

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Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages

56 _ Funeral from The Picture Book of Genre Paintings by Gisan by Kim Jun-geun.

57 _ Sul is offered to ancestors at jerye.

111 Š Hamburg Museum of Anthropology

56

Hyangeumjurye and Giroyeon Hyangeumjurye Hyangeumjurye is a ceremonial gathering of intellectuals highlighted by drinking and merrymaking, which originated from China and was introduced into Korea during the late Joseon period when 231 private schools, or hyanggyo, across the country held a yearly social gathering of Confucian scholars. Private households followed their example, inviting scholar friends to grace their gatherings.

Hyangeumjurye was one of the six important Confucian rituals along with gwallye, hollye, sangnye, jerye, and sanggyeollye, or a meeting between the families of the bride and the groom.

The purpose of hyangeumjurye was to celebrate reverence for wisdom and to honor elders for their longevity and accomplishments.

Š National Museum of Korea

58

Such gatherings provided lessons on behavior including drinking manners and demonstrating respect for others. For hyangeumjurye, the person with the highest distinction in a village played the host and invited the village elders and adults. Participants bowed to each other whenever exchanging cups, and the host circulated one cup among the participants to enhance the congenial atmosphere.

At hyangeumjurye, Koreans learned how to offer each other to have a drink and how the other person should accept or decline the RIIHU 7KH ÂżUVW RIIHU LV FDOOHG \HFKHRQJ DQG WKH ÂżUVW UHIXVDO yesa; the second offer is gocheong, and the second refusal gosa; and the third offer is no longer suggested when it receives a third refusal.

manners at hyangeumjurye, so that lofty human minds could exist in KDUPRQ\ ZLWK WKH LQĂ&#x20AC;XHQFH RI GULQN

Gyroyeon Giroyeon is a festival originally held in honor of elderly literary RIÂżFLDOV 2QO\ WKRVH UHWLUHG OLWHUDU\ RIÂżFLDOV DERYH WKH VHFRQG UDQN and over the age of 70 could attend the festivals which were observed on Samjinnal, falling on the third day of the third lunar month and Jungyangjeol on the ninth day of the ninth lunar month, with a view WR SURPRWLQJ OR\DOW\ WR WKH NLQJ DPRQJ SXEOLF RIÂżFLDOV DQG UHVSHFW for elders among commoners.

58 _ Iwongirohoedo (Picture of a Gathering at Iwon) by Author Unknown.

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112

offer is gangcheong, and the third rejection jongsa. As a courtesy, an

Korean ancestors hoped that people would learn proper drinking

113

.LQJ 7DHMR U Âą KHOG WKH ÂżUVW JLUR\HRQ LQ LQ

*LUR\HRQ ZDV RULJLQDO LQWHQGHG RQO\ IRU ROG OLWHUDU\ RIÂżFLDOV EXW

commemoration of his 60th birthday, or hwangap. The observance

started to open up to elderly commoners from the period of King

of giroyeon was the responsibility of Yejo (Ministry of Rites), and

Yeongjo (r. 1724â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1776) and King Jeongjo (r. 1776â&#x20AC;&#x201C;1800). To transmit

a royal secretary was dispatched for the smooth organization of the

the spirit of respecting senior members of society, reenactments of

festival. The king granted drinks, a musical orchestra, farmlands,

giroyeon are currently being held in some regions of the country.

salterns, and slaves for the festival, and prizes were given to senior members of the court.

Sul was the most important fare for giroyeon, meant to celebrate longevity and to pray for health. Attendees indulged themselves in the excitement and drinks at the festival all through the day, and would stagger home with the help of others late at night.

Even though involving excessive drinking, giroyeon was carried out in accordance with strict protocols. When the king entered the ceremonial place, music was played to signal the start of the festival.

After the king was seated on the royal throne, participants went to their places and made four kowtows. Afterwards, the attendees were divided into teams for the arrow-throwing game, and the losing team topped up the cups of the winning team who would drink after making a bow. From then on, the festival would start in earnest with drinking and eating, accompanied by the playing of a musical RUFKHVWUD (DFK SDUWLFLSDQW ZDV WUHDWHG WR DQ LQGLYLGXDO WUD\ ÂżOOHG ZLWK ULFH VRXS VNHZHUV RI JULOOHG PHDW GULHG ÂżVK IHUPHQWHG ÂżVK DQG NLPFKL DQG WKH\ HQMR\HG PXOWLSOH FXSV RI GULQN IURP WKH ÂżUVW WR ÂżIWK URXQGV RI VHUYLQJV 7KH IHVWLYDO LV ÂżQLVKHG ZLWK IRXU NRZWRZV to the king by the participants.

59 _ Manwoldaegyehoedo (Picture of a Gathering at Manwoldae; Personal Collection)

by Kim Hong-do.

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114

59

115

Sul and Manners

Drinking Manners ,QĂ&#x20AC;XHQFHG E\ &RQIXFLDQLVP .RUHDQ VRFLHW\ KDV ORQJ YDOXHG FRXUWHV\ and etiquette in every aspect of life, and drinking is no exception.

Basically, drinking was not possible without the permission of the head of the family and in front of adults, and females could join a GULQNLQJ JDWKHULQJ EXW FRXOG QRW VHUYH OLTXRU WR PHQ RU ÂżOO WKH FXSV of men.

Drinking etiquette originated from Sohak (Lesser Learning), which suggested rules and regulations in everyday life during the Joseon Dynasty. According to Sohak, when one tops up the otherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cup, one should hold a liquor bottle with the right hand and roll up the sleeve on the right arm with the left hand, so that the clothes do Š Gansong Art Museum

60

not touch food or drink. Offered a cup of liquor from an adult, a younger person should politely receive the cup expressing words of JUDWLWXGH DQG FRXOG HPSW\ WKH FXS RQO\ DIWHU WKH DGXOW ÂżQLVKHG KLV

accordance with proper manners and etiquette. Sul is offered on

drinking with the head turned to the side and the cup covered by a

ritual tables for ancestors, served to visiting guests, and offered to

hand. When receiving a cup of liquor, one should empty and return

family elders alongside of regular meals. Drinking with the right

it back. Even nondrinkers should sip the cup and put it back on the

mindset and observing good manners is, therefore, thought to be

table when offered liquor.

YHU\ VLJQLÂżFDQW 60 _ Hailjuyeondo (A Drinking Party on a Summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day) by Yi Su-min.

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116

Koreans have long regarded sul as something to be consumed in

117

Drinking Culture Drinking Customs Since drinking was enjoyed by all social classes from the king to house servants, drinking feasts were held as a means of giving.

At drinking festivals, people of the nobility sat on a chair with an LQGLYLGXDO WUD\ RI GLVKHV DQG OLTXRU DQG FRPPRQHUV VDW RQ WKH Ă&#x20AC;RRU with two people sharing one tray.

Receiving guests was part of everyday life even for those without RIÂżFLDO JRYHUQPHQWDO WLWOHV DQG WKHUHIRUH HDFK KRXVHKROG UHJXODUO\ brewed liquor to give to guests. An expression associated with this practice is jujugaekban, meaning â&#x20AC;&#x153;the owner asks the guest to have VRPH OLTXRU DQG WKH JXHVW DVNV WKH RZQHU WR KDYH VRPH ULFH ´ ,W LV said that this expression came out of an anecdote when two arch rivals found each other sharing a table of dishes and liquor. One offered his

A peculiar aspect of Korean drinking manners is the way liquor cups are handled. A cup should be received with both hands and returned back after emptying it.

Š National Museum of Korea

61

When the difference in age between drinking companions is less WKDQ ÂżYH \HDUV RIIHULQJ DQG UHFHLYLQJ OLTXRU FXSV ZLWK RQH KDQG LV permissible, but for those who address each other formally, liquor cups should be handled with both hands. When in particular an elder offers one a cup of liquor, the younger person should take it with two hands and say words of gratitude. Even when of the same age or younger, women are offered liquor cups with both hands.

ULYDO D FXS RI OLTXRU VD\LQJ Âł3OHDVH KDYH D FXS RI ZLQH ´ DQG WKH other replied, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Please have a bowl of rice since you must be hungry DIWHU D ORQJ ZDLW ´ .RUHDQV DUH NQRZQ WR JLYH JUHDW LPSRUWDQFH WR serving sul to guests with the utmost courtesy, even between rivals.

Drinking culture varies between different countries. In Japan, drinkers top up their own glasses. In China and Russia, people empty their cups all at once, but suggesting a toast is done at different times: people exchange toasts after drinking in China and before drinking

Exhausting farm labor was soothed by drinking. On a short EUHDN GXULQJ ÂżHOGZRUN IDUPKDQGV ZRXOG VLW LQ D FLUFOH WR HQMR\ WKH refreshing drink and sentiment in sharing nongju, or farmersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; liquor.

They would call out to passing strangers, neighbors, family elders,

in Russia. The practice of circulating and exchanging liquor cups is unique to Korea: a cup received is returned back to the cup owner; the groomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cup is given to the bride at a wedding; and a cup on the ritual table is circulated among the celebrants.

or friends to join the drinking break.

Exchanging liquor cups is intended to tear down unnecessary Indeed, sul is very much entrenched in the culture, given by elders to the young, served by homeowners to their guests, and labor. Exchanging liquor cups bespeaks exchange of minds. Koreans

is a way to express courtesy to the other. The drinking manners of the Korean people embody their deep-rooted compassion and affection toward each other.

RIIHU D FXS RI GULQN WR HDFK RWKHU DQG ÂżOO WKH FXS WR WKH EULP ZLWK D convivial and generous mind.

61 _ Yayeon (Night Banquet) from The Picture Book of Genre Paintings by Seong Hyeop

by Seong Hyeop.

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FRQVXPHG E\ KDUG ZRUNLQJ ÂżHOG KDQGV WR HDVH IDWLJXH IURP KDUG

formality between individuals, and receiving a cup with two hands

119

Appendix

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Appendix

120

121

Seoul

Sul Designated as Intangible Cultural Heritage at City and Province Levels

Seoul Songjeolju Seoul songjeolju is brewed with songjeol, the knots of pine tree branches, resulting in an aromatic liquor consumed for its medicinal effects. The drink was enjoyed among the middle classes residing in and around Seoul during the Joseon Dynasty. Renowned for its distinctive pine scented flavor, songjeolju was particularly popular among scholars due to the symbolism of the pine tree, which represents integrity.

Samhaeju Enjoyed by royal families since the Goryeo Dynasty, samhaeju started to be transmitted within the Andong Kim family during the reign of King Sunjo (r. 1800–1834) of the Joseon Dynasty after the king’s daughter, Princess Bogon, was married to a man from that family. The liquor is made on “pig” days, according to the Chinese zodiac, with the primary mash made on the first pig day of the first lunar month and the secondary and tertiary mashes made on the two following pig days, hence the name samhaeju, “liquor made on three pig days.” The drink is also called baegilju, or 100-day liquor, as the entire process of three fermentations takes about 100 days. Made with rice and nuruk as basic ingredients, samhaeju can be stored for a long time without losing its delicate flavor.

Hyangonju

Appendix

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Hyangonju is a clear rice wine made with glutinous rice as the starch source. As an alcoholic beverage for the exclusive consumption of royal families, hyangonju was made by Yangonseo (Agency for Royal Liquors), and its making was carried out only under the prescription and supervision of royal doctors. The king sometimes bestowed the drink to courtiers and favored subjects.

123

Daegu

Gyeonggi-do Province

Hahyangju

Gyemyeongju

Hahyangju is a medicinal liquor made of glutinous rice, nuruk, wormwood, wild chrysanthemums, and natural spring water from Mt. Biseulsan, and fermented for 100 days. Dongui bogam records, “hahyangju is not toxic, relieves fevers and strokes, cures headaches, eliminates redness in the eyes, and keeps the eyes from getting watery.” Having tasty flavors unique to local liquors, hahyangju leaves a longlasting fragrance of lotus flowers.

The name gyemyeongju, “cock’s crow liquor,” means that the liquor can be made overnight, ready for drinking before roosters begin to crow early next morning. Classified as sokseongju, or a fast-made liquor, gyemyeongju is made for occasions when alcoholic beverages are needed in quantity urgently. With a low alcohol content and a sweet taste, the drink uses malt for quick fermentation.

Gunpo Dangjeong Ongnoju

Deajeon Songsunju Songsunju is made when songsun, or pine sprouts, emerge in spring.

When pine trees start to bud in early spring, fresh sprouts are collected to make the primary mash and the secondary mash. Scholars used to serve the drink to guests.

Gunpo dangjeong ongnoju is a distilled spirit transmitted within the Yu family starting around the year 1880. When distilling the liquid from fermented mash, steam forms dewdrops that look like jade beads, hence the name ongnoju, “liquor of jade beads.” With a high alcohol content, the drink can be stored indefinitely when sealed tightly; the longer it ages, the better the taste. Using adlay as an ingredient, ongnoju has good fragrances and leaves no hangover. Drinking it in moderation is said to improve blood circulation and alleviate fatigue.

Namhansanseong Soju

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124

Namhansanseong soju is a local liquor transmitted from Namhansanseong Fortress, a massive ancient strategic defense complex built also as a temporary royal capital in times of war. Traditional taffy is used for making the drink which endows special flavors and enhances storage life. The local liquor from Namhansanseong Fortress leaves no hangover and has a good fragrance.

125

Chungcheongbuk-do Province Chungju Cheongmyeongju Chungju cheongmyeongju is a local liquor consumed during cheongmyeong, or the fifth out of the 24 solar terms marking the seasons in the traditional agricultural calendar. Cheongmyeongju was popular among people coming from and going to Chungju, located in the upper region of Hangang River and serving as a hub for sailing boats during the Joseon Dynasty. The drink was also popular among sadaebu, or scholar-officials, served to guests, used as a ritual liquor on seasonal holidays, and offered as a gift to the royal court. Fermented and aged for 100 days at a low temperature, cheongmyeongju has a high alcohol content and is famous for excellent flavor and fragrance.

Boeun Songnoju Boeun songnoju is a clear wine made by distilling songjeolju, which uses pine tree knots as the major flavoring ingredient along with chestnuts, in a mash of fermented rice and nuruk. Songnoju has been said to promote longevity, and according to Dongui bogam the drink is good for relieving arthritis and neuralgia.

Cheongju Sinseonju With a history of 400 years, cheongju sinseonju was enjoyed by scholars during the Joseon Dynasty. Made with medicinal herbs, sinseonju was believed to rejuvenate the body. A record says, “sinseonju turns white hair black, restores the elderly to youth, and gives longevity.”

Chungcheongnam-do Province Hansan Sogokju With a history of 1,500 years, hansan sogokju made in the Hansan region is one of the oldest traditional wines of Korea. Sogokju is also called “sitter’s liquor,” since it is hard for the drinker to stand up and walk away from the liquor because of its excellent taste and fragrance. It is said that refugees displaced from Baekje (18 B.C.–A.D. 660) made sogokju to console themselves over the demise of their kingdom.

Gyeryong Baegilju Glutinous rice, wheat flour, azalea flowers, pine needles, and other ingredients are mixed and fermented for 100 days to produce gyeryong baegilju, thus the moniker “100-day liquor.” Fermented for a long time at a low temperature, the drink has a unique color and scent, and leaves an excellent and clean aftertaste.

Asan Yeonnyeopju Asan Yeonnyeopju, literally “liquor of lotus leaves,” is made of rice with the addition of lotus leaves which give the drink a unique fragrance. Since it is danyangju (single-fermented liquor), mineral water should not be used for its making, and the best season for its making is after the high summer and before the first frost when lotus leaves are still moisture since summer heats are likely to make the drink going bad easily.

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127

Jeollabuk-do Province Geumsan Insambaekju Geumsan insambaekju is made with the addition of ginseng from Geumsan, the biggest ginseng-producing area in Korea. Made of rice, whole grain wheat, wormwood, and ginseng, the drink has a light amber color and the distinctive scent of ginseng. With an alcohol content of 43 percent, the liquor is said to have medicinal effects such as rejuvenating the body when drunk in moderation.

Igangju Representative of local liquors from Jeollabuk-do Province, igangju is a high-end soju consumed starting from the mid-Joseon period. Pear and ginger are added to a traditional soju to produce igangju, literally “liquor of pear and ginger.” With a high alcohol content, the drink has a long storage life, and longer ageing enhances its flavor. The liquor is famous for its sweet and spicy tastes.

Jungnyeokgo Cheongyang Gugijaju With a history of 150 years, cheongyang gugijaju is a traditional drink made of quality rice and gugija, also known as Chinese matrimony vine. Roots, stalks, and leaves of gugija are used for their medicinal effects. The drink has a reddish color, a gentle scent, and a refreshing taste, and leaves no hangover.

Jungnyeok, or juice squeezed from finely sliced fresh bamboo shoots, honey, and ginger extracts are added to soju and cooked in a double boiler to produce jungnyeokgo which is assumed to have been consumed beginning from the mid- Joseon period. As a medicinal liquor made in Jeolla Province which is rich in bamboo forests, jungnyeokgo was used as an emergency tonic drink.

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129

Jeollanam-do Province Haenam Jinnyangju Originally a royal liquor, jinnyangju is said to have been transmitted from the court lady Choi from Deokjeong-ri, Yeongam-gun, Haenam.

Enjoyed outside Deokjeong-ri as well, jinnyangju produces the best taste when made with water from a well in the area. With an alcohol content of about 13 percent, the drink has stronger fragrances than gyeongju gyodong beopju.

Gyeongsangbuk-do Province Gimcheon Gwahaju With a history of hundreds of years, gimcheon gwahaju is a representative liquor of Gimcheon. Along with rice and nuruk, water from Gwahacheon Stream is used, which is believed to produce a good taste and to guarantee a long storage life. Records say that people from other regions, who learned gwahaju making skills, could not replicate its ďŹ&#x201A;avor since the water used was different.

Andong Soju Jindo Hongju Jindo hongju originated from soju of the Goryeo Dynasty. The drink was consumed for medicinal effects such as enhancing digestion and promoting appetite. With an alcohol content of more than 40 percent, hongju goes down smoothly and produces no hangover. With a clear and brilliant scarlet color, the drink has unique taste and fragrance.

Andong soju was transmitted from a famous household in Andong. It is said that people used the distilled spirit as an emergency remedy for a variety of ailments such as wounds, stomach trouble, loss of appetite, and indigestion. Made of clear water from Mt. Mokseongsan, the drink boasts outstanding taste and fragrance.

Mungyeong Hosanchun Boseong Ganghaju Distilled liquor made from barley is added to brewed rice wine and then fermented to produce ganghaju. As a high-end liquor, the drink was consumed by people of nobility and wealth and is believed to have been served to the king for its excellent taste. It is said that a courier went back to his hometown upon retirement and treated guests to ganghaju, thereupon the drink became entrenched as the representative local liquor.

Out of the name hosanchun, hosan came from the pen name of a fun loving poet, and chun means drunken excitement. Noted for its thick consistency and ďŹ&#x201A;owery fragrance, hosanchun is made with water from the Daeha village to secure the best ďŹ&#x201A;avors for the drink. Even using the same ingredients and produced in the same way, the drink does not have the same taste when made with water from other sources.

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131

Jeju-do Province

Andong Songhwaju With an estimated history of more than 200 years, songhwaju has been transmitted within the Jeonju Yu family through generations. The drink was used on ritual tables for ancestors and served to honored guests.

With an alcohol content of 15 to 18 percent, the clear rice wine is famous for unique fragrances from pine needles and yellow chrysanthemums.

Omegisul On Jejudo Island where rice paddies are rare, the starch source for making alcoholic beverages is not rice, but millet. Cheongju and soju are made with millet, and takju that is made from millet is called omegisul.

When making the drink, the Korean cake called omegi-ddeok is used, hence the name omegisul.

Gosorisul

Gyeongsangnam-do Province

The brewed liquor omegisul is distilled in a gosori, the Jejudo dialect word for sojutgori, or a distiller, to produce gosorisul. Made of millet or other grains, the drink has a high alcohol content of 40 percent and is notable for its strong scent and clean aftertaste.

Hamyang Songsunju Hamyang songsunju is made from rice and nuruk with the addition of pine tree sprouts. The drink is made for medicinal use during early spring when pine trees bud. It is estimated that the liquor has a long history, evidenced by records of it appearing in documents from the Goryeo Dynasty. These days, pine needles are used in place of sprouts when it is out of season, and the liquor made with pine needles is called solju, solsunju, osongju, or soripsul.

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133

Glossary

Cheongju (Clear Rice Wine) Cheongju is produced by ďŹ ltering the fermented mash with a view to enhancing taste and fragrance. Rice is used as the main starch source, and ďŹ&#x201A;avor and varies according to the proportion of rice used and how it is prepared.

Danyangju (Single-fermented Liquor) Danyangju is an alcoholic beverage that is made with just one fermentation.

Compared to drinks produced through multiple fermentations, danyangju is less tasty and fragrant, but was more affordable and widely enjoyed by common folk. With a low alcohol content, it has a short storage life and should be consumed within a short period.

Deotsul (Secondary Mash) Deotsul, or the secondary mash, is made on top of the primary mash to enhance the quality of alcoholic beverages. With multiple fermentations, alcoholic beverages attain clearer and brighter colors, a high alcohol content, and a long storage life.

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135

Dosoju (Liquor for Fending off Evil Spirit) Dosoju is consumed on New Year’s Day among family members, as a gesture of hope for protection against evil spirits and maintaining good health throughout the year. The youngest in the family drinks dosoju first, since the youngest is assumed to be the most vulnerable to illnesses.

Made from brewing various kinds of medicinal herbs, dosoju has a soft and sweet flavor with fragrance, good to drink even for the young.

Godubap (Hard-cooked Rice) Godubap is cereal grains cooked in a steamer. Godubap produces a clear-colored liquor with a high alcohol content, which, however, is intoxicating and has unpleasant scents. Godubap has been used widely for making liquors with a single or short fermentation.

Gumeongddeok (Doughnut Rice Cake) Gaeddeok (Shapeless Rice Cake) Gaeddeok comes in unattractive forms or with no definite shape. Making gaeddeok requires a great deal of time and effort, which are well rewarded with good tastes and scents to alcoholic beverages.

Gumeongddeok is a doughnut-shaped cake made of rice flour kneaded with hot water. When gumeongddeok is used for the primary mash, the sul yield is in small quantities, but has excellent taste, good flagrances, and a long storage life. Gumeongddeok was mainly used by upper-class families.

Gahyangju (Aromatic Liquor) Gwanhonsanje (Rites of Passage) Gahyangju is made with the addition of seasonal flowers or fruits. Spring flowers such as azaleas and forsythias were used in spring; roses, peppermints, and irises were popular in summer; fragrant fruits such as citrons and tangerines were added in autumn; and half-opened buds of plum flowers were floated in a liquor cup in winter.

Gwanhonsamje refers to the four rituals marking significant life passages: gwan (coming of age ceremony), hon (wedding), sang (funeral), and je (ancestral rite). Liquors are made and reserved for these occasions, and considered most important elements of the rites of passage.

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Hyangeumjurye Hyangeumjurye is a celebratory drinking ceremony epitomizing drinking rules and etiquette. While providing lessons on drinking manners, hyangeumjurye is an occasion to honor exemplary lives of service and meritorious achievement, demonstrating reverence for wisdom and respect for elders. Participants bowed to each other whenever exchanging cups, and the host circulated one cup among the participants to enhance the congenial atmosphere.

Iyangju (Twice-fermented Liquor) Iyangju undergoes two fermentations. The primary mash is made of grains, nuruk, and water for fermentation, which is added cooked rice or nuruk and water to make the secondary mash for further fermentation.

Juansang (Table of Liquor and Side Dishes) Juansang is a table set with drinks and snacks served to guests. The drinks and side dishes served from seasonal foods were prepared according to preferences of the guest.

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Jugeok (Paddle) Jugeok have a round flat head with a long handle and are made of wood or iron. Paddles are used to scoop steamed rice or to stir porridge. When making sul, paddles are used to scoop godubap or to stir the mash inside a jar.

Makgeoli (Unrefined Rice Wine) Makgeoli, which means “sifted right before” or “roughly sifted,” is a type of takju. It is made by diluting the fermented mash with water.

Makgeoli (Unrefined Rice Wine) Jumak (Tavern) Located at traffic hubs, jumak are drinking houses selling alcoholic beverages and rice, and providing lodging. Takju were mainly sold at jumak along with soju, and liquors with additional flavors and fragrances were also prepared for noblemen. Side dishes were served free of charge with drinks for paying customers.

Jumo (Barmaid) Jumo are women who sold liquors at jumak.

Makgeoli, which means “sifted right before” or “roughly sifted,” is a type of takju. It is made by diluting the fermented mash with water.

Mitsul (Primary Mash) Mitsul, or the primary mash, is made of rice, nuruk, and water, to which is added another mixture of rice, nuruk, and water to make the secondary mash. The primary mash promotes the multiplication of yeasts and therefore enhances fermentation, contributing to the production of a flavorful and fragrant liquor with a high alcohol content.

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Nuruk (Fermentation Starter) Nuruk, a fermentation starter for brewing alcoholic beverages, is a dough of grains germinated by microorganisms that release enzymes. As a determinant factor for flavors, flagrances, and colors of sul, nuruk is an indispensable ingredient for brewing alcoholic drinks in Korea. To make nuruk, fungi or bacteria are germinated on a culture medium which is made of starchy grains such as rice, wheat, millet, or barley.

Siru (Steamer) Siru, steamers, are round-shaped earthenware used to cook rice or rice cakes. Siru are used to steam the starch source when making alcoholic beverages and to distill brewed drinks to produce spirited liquors.

Soksoengju (Fast-made Liquor) Nurukgori (Nuruk Frame) Nurukgori are wooden frames used as moulds for nuruk, one of the primary ingredients for making sul. They come in rectangular and circular shapes. The nuruk dough is put in the frame, covered with cloth, and pressed to the desired shape.

Sokseongju is an alcoholic beverage made in a in a shortened process over one to 10 days. It is made for unexpected occasions when alcoholic drinks are needed in quantity to serve visiting guests or mourners at a death in the family. It has a short storage life, but has a pretty good taste for one or two days.

Soju (Distilled Spirit) Samyangju (Triple-fermented Liquor) Samyangju is fermented three times. The more times a liquor is fermented, the higher alcohol content it has and the less intoxicating it becomes.

Samyangju has a clear light golden color, deep and mellow finish with fruity and flowery fragrances.

Soju is produced by heating a fermented alcoholic beverage in a distiller to extract a clear alcoholic drink. Colorless and refreshing, soju has a unique taste because of volatile elements in it.

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Sojutgori (Distiller) Sojutgori are vessels used for distilling brewed liquor to produce soju, looksing like a gourd with a pinched waist and being open from top to bottom with a long tube attached to the waist. Distilling cookeries are usually earthenware made of clay, but sometimes of copper or brass.

Yakju (Medicinal Liquor) Yakju is an alcoholic beverage made with medicinal plant materials such as pine needles, bamboo leaves, or ginseng root. Sul was believed to be the best drug in Oriental medicine, and various kinds of yakju were made to help prevent or treat diseases.

Sugi (Soju Receiving Bottle) Yongsu (Cylindrical Sifter) Sugi, literally â&#x20AC;&#x153;receiving bottles,â&#x20AC;? are placed under the tube attached to the waist of a sojutgori to receive the distilled liquid that comes through the tube.

To prevent alcoholic volatilization and to trap fragrances, the bottle has a narrow mouth.

Yongsu were used by private households to sift brewed alcohol. They are made of bamboo strands, bush clover strands, or rice straws densely woven in the form of a cylindrical basket. One or two days after a youngsu is planted in the middle of the fermented mash, clean liquor is gathered inside it.

Takju (Thick Rice Wine) Takju, unlike cheongju, is cloudy. To make takju, the fermented mash is ďŹ ltered, producing cheongju, which is then squeezed on a sifter to produce a cloudy liquor.

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Sul, Korean Alcoholic Beverages Publisher

National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage

Producer

Yeon Ung, Director of the Research Division of Intangible Cultural Heritage

Planning

Lim Hyoung Jin, Hwang Kyeong Soon, Kwon Maehee

Written by

Park Rock Darm, Lee Kun Wook

Translated

Park Jung-eun

Proofread by

Teresita M. Reed

Photo by

Seo Heun Kang

Photos’ Provided by

National Museum of Korea National Folk Museum of Korea National Palace Museum of Korea Seoul National University Museum Korea University Museum The Korean Christian Museum of Soongsil University Gangsong Art Museum

Design & Edition

Graphic Korea Co, Ltd

Publication Date

July 31, 2013

Published by

National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage 132 Munji-ro, Yuseong-gu, Daejeon, 305-380, KOREA Tel +82-42-860-9233 Fax+82-42-861-4927

ISBN 978-89-299-0176-9 93590 Government Publication Number 11-1550011-000578-01

Copyright©NRICH(National Research Institute of Cultural Heritage), All rights reserved Cover Paper : Shinfunshi Natual 209g/㎡ Inner Paper : Montblanc Natural 130g/㎡ Book Binding : Soft-Cover Size : 180×240/㎜ The number of pages : 152 Not for sale