The Story of Hanbok
H a nb ok A dva nc e me nt C e nt e r, a n a f f i l i at e d organization of Korea Craft and Design Foundation (KCDF), is established as a public institution of the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism of Korea. The center is aiming at restoring the unique identity of hanbok as the center of traditional culture, and enhancing its competitiveness in a way that meet and harmonize with modern needs and trends. Hanbok has been a part of the lives of Koreans for about 5,000 years, and is characterized by the beauty of abundance and softly flowing curved lines. “The Story of Hanbok � is planned and written in order to help wearing hanbok properly and beautifully, and is well organized for the readers in a variety of cultures to easily understand. Hopefully, this writing can serve as a guide for the readers to fully appreciate the grace and elegant beauty of hanbok .
The Story of Hanbok
TITLE THE STORY OF HANBOK PUBLISHER CHOI JEONG CHEOL, HANBOK ADVANCEMENT CENTER ADDRESS 10F YULGOK-RO 53 JONGNO-GU SEOUL 110-240 SEOUL KOREA TEL 82-2-739-0505 FAX 82-2-739-0330 HOMEPAGE www.hanbokcenter.kr PRODUCER HANBOK ADVANCEMENT CENTER AUTHOR LEE YOUNG YIM SUPERVISOR SON KYUNG JA, CHO HYO SUNN TRANSLATION KANG HANA TRANSLATION SUPERVISOR JASON MERIADOC FERGUSON PHOTOGRAPHY MEINFACTORY (THE PART 1, 2), BIG STUDIO (THE PART 3) ILLUSTRATION NOH JUN-GU EDITOR, ART DIRECTION bdot PRINT KOREA UNION publishing bdot PUBLISHING FIRST PUBLISHED ON march 1st, 2015 IN KOREA BY HANBOK ADVANCEMENT CENTER. FIRST DISTRIBUTED IN KOREA BY HANBOK ADVANCEMENT CENTER AND bdot PUBSLIHING. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. NO PART OF THIS BOOK MAY BE REPRODUCED OR TRANSMITTED IN ANY MANNER WITHOUT PRIOR WRITTEN PERMISSION FROM THE COPYRIGHT HOLDER.
Contents 01 The Esthetics of Lines, Hanbok ···················································4 1. The Beauty of Hanbok in the Elegant Flow of Lines ················5 2. Basic Hanbok for Men and Women · ·······································7 02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully? ···········································13 1. The Order of Wearing Hanbok · ············································ 14 2. How to Wear Underclothes of Hanbok ································· 16 3. How to Wear Beoseon ··························································· 17 4. How to Tie Goreum ·······························································18 5. The Proper Way of Wearing Men’s Hanbok ··························20 6. The Proper Way of Wearing Women’s Hanbok ·····················24 7. The Stylish Look of Hanbok ··················································26 8. Appropriate Posture When You Wear Hanbok ·····················28 9. How to Keep Hanbok ····························································29 03 The Story of Hanbok in History ················································33 Korean Traditional Clothes within Everyday Lives ····················34
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01
The Esthetics of Lines, Hanbok
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1. The Beauty of Hanbok in
the Elegant Flow of Lines
For about 5000 years, the basic format of hanbok, Korean traditional clothes, has more or less remained the same, while its forms or types have seen changes with culture, situations and the aesthetic consciousness of the times. The type of hanbok that we are familiar with, which is composed of relatively tight tops and loose bottoms or skirts, dates back to the mid and late Joseon Dynasty which was the last dynasty in Korean history (1392~1910). Men’s hanbok is basically composed of baji (pants), jeogori (Korean-style short jacket), jokki (vest) and po (outer coat), waist and ankle straps for baji , beoseon (Korean-style socks) and shoes. Women’s
hanbok is comprised of sokbaji (inner pants), sokchima (inner skirt), sokjeoksam (inner shirt), jeogori , po, beoseon and shoes. Accessories for hanbok include norigae (traditional ornaments for women), rings and chignon ornaments, etc. The outline of hanbok is very simple: the flat cloth is cut and patterned in a straight line. When it comes to the sewing method, however, the strict way of folding a seam is applied to all types of
hanbok ; and its git (collar), doryeon (the hemline of jeogori ) and baerae (bottom line of the jacket’s sleeves) are sewn in a curved line. There are some rules that you should follow when you wear hanbok , but after wearing it, its loose fit will be comfortable and allow you to cover the flaws of your body shape. In contrast to Western clothing, which achieves dimensionality through straight-lined fabric, hanbok is made with f lat fabric in a linear shape that only achieves dimensionality when it is worn on the body. When placed on the human frame, the hanbok takes on a life of its own—one that is natural, elegant and flowing. In other words, depending on the wearer’s body shape and way of wearing it, the lines and shapes of clothes can vary. Indeed, such natural lines of hanbok are one of its unique aesthetic characteristics and make the wearer’s look more attractive. 5
01 The Esthetics of Lines, Hanbok
Also, when you wear hanbok , you wear several pieces of clothes in layers, and these natural and voluminous clothes will create your own unique style. Hanbok can be made with various kinds of cloth, especially with cotton and wool, depending on the ways of weaving. Even the clothes of the same design can look totally different when their sheen and texture differ. Natural dyeing materials can create various colors of dark and pale, deep and light, transparent and opaque on the condition of the materials and dyeing methods. Cloth of various colors contributes to the richness and diversity of
hanbok . In addition, kinds of cloth differ from four seasons, and different kinds of cloth require different sewing methods. The sewing lines are important in that the lines determine the complete look of the wearer. Various types of hanbok can be made according to the texture and the color of cloth or sewing methods, thereby creating a variety of lines of hanbok . In the end, the beautiful lines of the hanbok depend on the harmony of texture, colors and sewing lines of the clothes. Also, only when the hanbok is worn, its lines come to life in perfection. Since every component of hanbok represents one’s wish for a better life, and consideration of (or respect towards) others, it is safe to say that
hanbok contains the aesthetic and living philosophy of Koreans. One can read the mind of the wearer and designer through its beautiful lines of hanbok . In a sense, hanbok has somewhat contradictory characteristics: simple but diverse; flat but voluminous. Also, hanbok represents the wearer’s aesthetic sense and deep insights. Indeed,
hanbok , the traditional clothing of the Korean people and currently worn as formal dress, amplifies the wearer’s natural physical and spiritual beauty.
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2. baSiC hanbok
for Men and woMen The kinDs of CloThes Comprising men’s hanbok Modern male hanbok (Korean traditional clothing) is comprised of
baji (pants), jeogori (basic upper garment), baeja (traditional vest), jokki (vest) and durumagi (overcoat), etc.
BAjI Men’s trousers are wide, and are composed of marupok, sapok and
jEOGORI Jeogori is composed of gil, somae, git, seop, dongjeong and goreum. The front of jeogori is opened, so it is worn by folding from left to right and adjusted with the goreums . 7
01 The Esthetics of Lines, Hanbok
The Types of men’s Hanbok
Baeja B aeja are sleeveless clothes worn over jeogori , which has a symmetrical git (collar), and is adjusted with goreum or buttons.
JOKKI Jokki are sleeveless clothes worn over jeogori , and jokki are similar to a western-style vest. Koreans began to wear this type of vest from the late 19th century (specifically the time when the Joseon Dynasty developed into a modern state). Its design, since then, has changed little.
Magoja M agoja are sleeveless and collarless clothes worn over jokki , and is adjusted with buttons. Koreans have traditionally worn magoja in winter with jokki as a body warmer since the late 19th century. 8
Durumagi D urumagi is an outer jacket for both men and women for special or formal occasions. It is also worn in winter as a body warmer.
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01 THE ESTHETICS OF LInES, HAnBOK
The kinDs of CloThes Comprising Women’s hanbok Women’s hanbok is composed of chima (a wrap-around skirt) and
jeogori . There are different types of jeogori such as banhoijang jeogori , samhoijang jeogori (jeogori with a different color patches on different parts) and saekdong jeogori (jeogori with multicolor striped sleeves).
CHIMA Chima is comprised of pleats, and waist strings.
jEOGORI Jeogori is composed of gil, somae, git, seop, dongjeong and goreum. The front of jeogori is opened, so it is worn by folding from left to right and adjusted with the goreums .
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The Types of Women’s Jeogori
Min jeogori a type of jeogori with plain git and goreum without hoijang.
Hoijang jeogori (jeogori with a different color of patches in different parts) Hoijang jeogori is a kind of jeogori. It has git (a collar), goreum (straps attached to jeogori ) and kkeutdong (a cuff attached to sleeves) which has a different color from the body part of jeogori .
Samhoijang jeogori (jeogori with different colored patches in different parts including gyeotmagi ) Samhoijang jeogori is a kind of jeogori of which git (collar), goreum (straps attached to jeogori), kkeutdong (a cuff attached to sleeves) and gyeotmagi (a patch attached to the armpit part of jeogori ) have a different color from the main part of jeogori.
Saekdong jeogori Saekdong jeogori is a kind of jeogori with multicolor striped sleeves
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The Esthetics of Lines, Hanbok
The Basic Terms Concerning Hanbok
Baerae Bottom curves of the sleeves of jeogori , to be more specific, the part ranging from the end of the sleeve to the jindong .
Daenim A string to be tied around the ankle part of men’s hanbok . Gil
The broad body part of upper garment.
Git
the neckline part of jeogor i.
Godae backside of the git which is attached between shoulder seams.
Goreum Two strings attached to the front part of jeogori or durumagi in order to fold the clothes.
Gyeotmagi The armpit part of jeogori . Hoijang A kind of female jeogori which has git, kkeutdong, gyeotmagi and goreum of different colors from the body part of jeogori .
Kkeutdong A cloth of a different color attached to the edges of the sleeves of jeogor i.
Seop A cloth attached to the front part of upper garments such as jeogori or durumagi , in order to prevent them from being opened.
SUNUK
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The seams of beoseon .
02
How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
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02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
1. How to Wear
Hanbok Properly When you wear underclothes and outer garment of hanbok in proper order, it will make an elegant look.
Hanbok for males is worn this way As for men, the wearing order differs depending on the type of hanbok , but when you follow the order below, you can create your own classy look.
Baji, Jeogori
Baji,Jeogori 14
Baeja
JOKKI
Magoja
Durumagi
Durumagi
Hanbok for females is worn this way As for women, you will look fabulous in hanbok when you wear underclothes and outer garment properly.
Beoseon, Sokbaji, Sokchima
Chima
Sokjeoksam
Jeogori 15
02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
2. How to wear
underclothes of Hanbok 1. For men, just wear basic underclothes. Be careful not to let undershirts be seen through v-shaped collar of jeogori . 2. Women wear basic underclothes, brassiere without pad or wire,
sokbaji (underpants), and then wear sokchima (underskirt) over it. When you wear hanbok , however, it is more appropriate not to wear top underwear (brassiere) under the upper garments. Sokchima should be shorter than outer chima . Depending on the types of outer skirts and occasions, you can choose between narrow sokchim a and wide sokchima . Sokjeoksam (undershirt) is an option in modern-day
hanbok . You can choose to wear or not to wear sokjeoksam depending on seasons or fabrics of jeogori .
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3. how To wear beoSeon (TradiTionaL korean SoCkS)
1. how to Distinguish the left one from the right one Based on the margin to seam in the center of beoseon , you can distinguish the left one from the right one. When you wear beoseon , place its seam, so that it faces outside. So on your right beoseon , the seam should face the right side, while on your left beoseon , the margin to seam should face the left side. (see the red arrow)
2. how to Wear beoseon Wear beoseon carefully in a way that places the margin to seam of each beoseon to face outward. To be more specific, place the seam of the right beoseon to face the right side and the left beoseon to face the left side, while leaving the center seam line between your big toe and the second toe, which makes your feet look smaller and beautiful. If you are a man, you can wear white socks instead of beoseon . 17
02 HOW TO WEAr HAnBOK BEAUTIFULLY
4. how To Tie goreuM (STraPS aTTaChed To Jeogori )
HOw TO MAKE A BASIC KNOT 1 Hold two straps using both hands, place the short goreum attached to the right-side gil (panels of fabric that make up the body of jeogori ) over the long goreum. 2 Wrap the long goreum with the short goreum, and pull the shorter one down, around and outside. Then you will be holding two goreums in your hands.
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HOw TO MAKE A MAEDEUPGO (A LOOP IN THE SHAPE OF A HALF-RIBBON) 1 3 Make a loop in the shape of a half-ribbon using the short goreum. 4 Insert a folded long goreum through the loop of short goreum which was made in the previous step. 5 While pulling the folded long goreum upwards up to the end part of the left godae, pull the short goreum downwards so that the two goreums can be fixed. 6 Adjust the two goreums that you have just tied, and leave them hanging naturally.
HOw TO MAKE A MAEDEUPGO (A LOOP IN THE SHAPE OF HALF-RIBBON) 2 3 Make a loop in the shape of half-ribbon using the long goreum. 4 Wrap the loop made in the step 3 with the short goreum, and tie them. 5 Pull the short goreum out and downwards and adjust them. Pull the left goreum only up to the end part of the left godae. Let the two goreums hang naturally.
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02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
5. The Proper Way of
Wearing Men’s Hanbok There are two ways of wearing modern male hanbok: wearing baeja or wearing jokki and magoja . You can wear both of them properly by following the instruction of “when you wear baeja” and “when you wear jokki and magoja .”
When wearing Baeja Wear Underclothes →Wear Baji (pants)→Wear Jeogori →Wear Baeja (traditional vest)→Wear Durumagi (overcoat)→Adjust the Clothing
1. Wear Underclothes (See pp.16~17) 2. Wear Baji (pants)
Tie waist straps 1 Wear pants with wide sapok on the right leg. 2 Hold the loose part of the pants on the right side using both hands and fold it over to the left. 3 Make a knot with waist straps in the same way used in the goreum to hold up baji (pants). 20
TIE DAENIM (ANKLE STRAPS) 1 Place the center stitch of pants on the inner ankle bone. 2 Fold the excess bottom of pants inside out to be adjusted around the outer ankle bone. 3 Place the center of daenim on the inner ankle bone. 4,5 Wrap around the ankle with daenim from inside out so that the end of daenim is at the back at the inner ankle bone.
6,7 Tie the daenim at the inner ankle bone, and make a knot in the same way of tying the goreum. 8 Pull down the bottom parts of the pants slightly so that daenim is covered. ” In principle, the color of daenim should be the same as that of baji , but in order to help the understanding of readers, the colors of each are different in the picture.
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02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
3. Wear Jeogori 1 If jeogori has inner coat-strings, tie them. If jeogori has an outer snap button, adjust jeogori with that button. 2 After tying goreum, pull jeogori slightly to the front to prevent the collar and the shoulder seam from being seen on the back.
4. Wear Baeja (traditional vest) 1 Wear baeja over jeogori . Adjust the clothes with buttons and give it a finishing touch by tying goreum. If baeja does not have goreum, just fastening the button is fine. 2 Baeja is a type of sleeveless clothes. You should be careful to prevent its shoulder seam from appearing on the back.
5. Wear Durumagi (overcoat) 1 Wear durumagi over baeja, and tie inner goreum inside the clothes. 2 Tie outer goreum as in the case of jeogori . Adjust the shoulder seam line by leaning forward a little bit, and pull the clothes into shape.
6. Adjust the Clothing After putting on durumagi , smooth out creases in the clothes, adjust the hemline of the sleeves so that the sleeves of jeogori do not stick out. When going outside, choose to wear shoes that can go well with the hanbok that you are wearing.
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WHEN WEARING JOKKI (VEST) AND MAGOJA (OUTER COAT) Wear Underclothes→Wear Baji (pants)→Wear Jeogori →Wear Jokki (vest) → Wear Magoja (outer coat)→Wear Durumagi (overcoat)→ Adjust the Clothing
The way of wearing 1. underclothes, 2. baji , and 3. jeogori is the same as the cases mentioned above.(See pp.16~22) 4. Wear jokki (vest) Wear jokki over jeogori and adjust the clothes with buttons. Be careful not to let the shoulder seam line appear on your back.
5. Wear Magoja (outer coat) 1 Wear magoja over jokki . Magoja has unique buttons on its front, so pay attention to them when you fasten the buttons. 2 Insert buttons in each button hole of the clothes inside out, and leave them hanging naturally. 3 A s in the case of jeogori , adjust the shoulder seam line to be seen from the front and pull the clothes into shape.
6. Wear Durumagi The way mentioned above applies here as well.(See p.22)
7. Adjust the Wearing Smooth out creases of jeogori , magoja and durumagi . Adjust the clothes so that the hemline of the sleeves of jeogori and magoja do not stick out of durumagi .
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02 HOW TO WEAr HAnBOK BEAUTIFULLY
6. The ProPer way of
wearing woMen’S hanbok Wear Underclothes→Wear outer Chima (skirt) →Wear Sokjeogori (inner jeogori )→Wear Geotjeogori (outer jeogori )→ Adjustment the Wearing
1. Wear underclothes (see “How to Wear Hanbok Properly” section) (See pp.16~17) 2. Wear outer Chima (skirt)
1 Have your arms inserted in shoulder strings. Place the right-end of chima over the left-end of it. Wrap it clockwise 2 Pull out the string of the left pleat of your skirt under the armhole and bring it to the front. 3 Pull the string of the right pleat of your skirt counter-clockwise and bring it to the front. 4 Adjust the skirts to be fixed and tie the two strings brought to the front. Tuck the excess part of the strings in the tied string, so that it cannot be seen outside jeogori. ※ The direction the pleat of your skirt is wrapped around differs from region to region: the right side of the pleat can be placed over the left side (clockwise) or vice versa (counterclockwise). But the former, which is placing the right pleat over the left (clockwise), is preferable. 24
3. Wear sokjeogori (inner jeogori) You should wear sok-jeaksam (inner shirt) or sok-jeogori (inner jeogori ), especially when your clothes are thin.
4. Wear geotjeogori (outer jeogori) Adjust dongjeong (white collar attached along the rim of the neckline) by adjusting it with inner strings or snaps and tie the outer goreum. Adjust doryeon (the hemline of jeogori ) to fully cover the inner jeogori.
5. adjustment 1 Lean your body forward to adjust the shoulder seam line to be seen from the front. Smooth out the creases of gil (panels of fabric that make up the body of jeogori ) and sleeves. 2 Adjust the waistline of skirt so that it cannot be seen outside the hemline of jeogori . Be careful not to expose beoseon under the skirts, but only to show the tip of beoseon . 3 Try to match shoes that go well with hanbok when you go outside.
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02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
7. The stylish look of Hanbok
Hanbok with accessories
When Worn with Norigae (Korean traditional ornaments worn by women) 1. When it comes to a norigae with a string, hang them over the left shoulder string of chima . 2. When it comes to a norigae with a loop, insert the long goreum of
jeogori in the loop, and then tie goreum . When Worn with Other Accessories One of the hanbok’s characteristics is that its wearer’s neckline looks graceful. In this regard, it is better to avoid wearing necklaces and earrings to highlight the lines of the wearer. However, if you have to, choose a simple pair of earrings that can be attached to your earlobes rather than elongated ones. 26
hair sTyling anD make-up neat and tidy hairstyle, especially one that makes your neckline and collar stand out, and goes well with hanbok . If you are a woman with medium-long or long hair, it is better to bind your hair up. Try decorating your hair with a chignon ornament that goes well with the color of your hair and clothes, then it will make a great hair styling of you. If your hair is short, then just make it tidy and neat. If you are a girl with long hair, it is best to have your hair braided and decorated with daenggi (a ribbon used to tie and decorate long hair), and for a girl with medium-length hair, bind it up, and a girl with short hair, just make it neatly combed. Children will look more stylish when their hair is ornamented with daenggi . It depends on the time, place, or clothes that you are wearing, but wearing light make-up is recommended, and the same goes for lip make-up. Steer clear of dark or heavy lip liner and choose the color that can go well with the colors of hanbok that you are wearing. HOw TO DO HAIR STYLING ON YOU OwN
Part your hair in the middle. As for the hair in the back, bind it up half. As for the hair left on the sides, wear it in two braids, or have it twisted to one direction and tied together with your hair in the back. The hair pulled together can be wrapped with a hairnet or fixed with a pin, which leads to a tidy look. 27
02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
8. Appropriate posture
when you wear Hanbok Standing posture Stand naturally with your heels together and your toes facing outwards. Keep your head erect and pull down your chin. Keep your knees, buttocks and waist straight. Keep your shoulder in line and do not bend the shoulder forward or backward. Naturally straighten yourself up. Distribute your weight on both legs evenly so that your body does not lean to either side. Put your hands together in front of your body.
Sitting posture When You Sit on the Floor Do not sit in front of elders. If you are a man, sit on the right across from elders. If you are a woman, sit on the left across from elders. Sit up straight and keep your eyes on the floor a few meters ahead of you. Bend down the left knee first and then right knee, and then sit. If you are a man, put your hands together in front of your body. If you are a woman, put your hands on the right knee. If you are a man, adjust your durumagi to prevent it from being spread out. If you are a woman, pay attention to the pleats of your chima to prevent them from being spread out. When you sit on a cushion, be careful not to step on it. Sit on the center of a cushion with your tip toes placed on the edge of the cushion. While sitting up, straighten your knees with two hands pushing slightly the cushion, so that the cushion does not move. Sit comfortably when the elderly tell you to do so. Men sit crosslegged on the floor and women sit with one knee drawn up. Be careful not to lean on the wall or furniture or not to hold onto the floor or not to sit on leaning one side, or not to stretch out both legs. When You Sit on a Chair If you are a man, adjust your durumagi . If you are a woman, adjust the pleats of your chima in order not to make creases on them while sitting on. If you are a woman, it is better to pull the outer pleats of your chima slightly upwards not to make creases on the clothes. 28
9. how To
keeP hanbok When you iron hanbok Iron hanbok with an iron on the silk mode. upper garment iron the lining first, and then the lining of doryeon (hemline of jeogori ) and then buri (hemline of sleeves). Press the linings slightly while ironing them, in order to keep them from sticking out. When it comes to ironing outer upper garment, keep the following order for ironing: back gil, back sleeves, front gil , front sleeves, inner git, outer git , and goreum .
baji iron narrow sapok , wide sapok , and then waist part along the seam line.
Chima iron lining of the bottom part and its column first. Iron from bottom to top. When you iron pleats, you should not iron the upper part of pleats which are within 5 to 6 inches from the waistline of
chima others if clothes have gold or silver gilts and embroideries, put another cloth on them when ironing. If you directly iron the clothes without any additional cloth put on, the gilts will come off and the embroideries will get discolored.
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02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
How to properly fold Hanbok
Jeogori (a) When jeogori is kept in a box or a drawer: spread
jeogori , fold goreum neatly and put it over the collar. Fold the two sleeves toward gil. If the box or drawer is small, fold the gil and sleeves one more time. Be careful not to make creases on git (collar) and dongjeong (white collar attached along the rim of the neckline.) (b) When jeogori is kept on a hanger: if you wear the jeogori often, adjust the line of jeogori to fit a hanger and allow the sleeves hang naturally.
Chima (a) When chima is kept in a box or a drawer: fold the chima in half along the seam line. If there is not enough room in the box, fold it one more time. (b) When chima is kept on a hanger: tie the waist with strings and hang it over a hanger.
Men’s jeogori Fold goreum neatly and put it over collar. Fold the two sleeves toward gil . If the box or drawer is small, fold the folded
gil and sleeves one more time. Be careful not to make a mess of git and dongjeong while folding the clothes.
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Baji Fold baji lengthways once and fold it along the width two or three times.
Baeja and Jokki Fold baeja and jokki along the width. If there is not enough room in the box or drawer, fold them lengthways. Be careful not to spoil its collar or neckline.
M agoja Fold the sleeves toward the collar, and fold the clothes in half.
Durumagi Fold goreum neatly and fold it over the collar. Fold the sleeves toward the collar. Fold both mu (side gores) while folding the collar and the sleeves by the width of mu one more time. Fold the clothes lengthwise two to three times. 31
02 How to Wear Hanbok Beautifully
How to keep Hanbok Depending on the season, occasion and material, you can put insecticides and desiccants in the box in which you store the hanbok, which is important in order to prevent dampness or insects from discoloring or damaging the clothes. It is best to keep folded hanbok wrapped with hanji , Korean traditional paper, and put them in a drawer or a box, since it can serve as a natural insecticide and desiccant. Wrap different colors of hanbok with different hanji in order to prevent the clothes from being discolored. But you must wash the clothes before putting them in a box. Also, it is good to have the clothes dry cleaned to minimize damage to the fabric.
If you are to keep hanbok in a box, use the following picture as a reference. It is best to keep folded hanbok wrapped with hanji , Korean traditional paper, and put them in a box
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03
The Story of Hanbok in History
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03 The Story of Hanbok in History
Korean Traditional Clothes within Everyday Lives Korean history includes all the things such as clothes, food and shelter that have influenced the everyday lives of Koreans and have been with them. Among them, the clothes of Korean give us an opportunity to look into the situation of the times and to better understand the identity of Koreans. It is difficult to find out exactly when Koreans began to make and wear clothes, but based the fact that relics from the Neolithic Age included hemp yarn, bone needle, and spinning wheels, we can assume that Koreans have made and worn clothes since then. Korean people have worn different types of clothes depending on their age, sex and social occasion throughout their lives. Koreans have had a new born baby wear white baenaet jeogori wishing for his or her health and longevity. A hundred days after the birth, the family members have had the baby wear clothes made of 100 pieces of cloths or quilts, wishing for his or her well-being. On the first birthday of a baby, which is called dol in Korean, people have had the baby wear
dolbok (clothes for a one-year-old baby) with multi-color sleeves. Patterns and colors of the dolbok represent the wish for the wearer’s health and luck.
A boy’s dolbok having navy git, kkeutdong and goreum at the sleeves and purple mu .
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In a wedding ceremony which is one of the most important ceremonies of one’s life, Koreans used to wear splendid and colorful ceremonial clothes. Clothes for wedding ceremony represent the hope and wish for health and happiness of the bride and groom. Grooms used to wear dallyeongpo and samo . Brides used to wear hwalot embroidered with lotus, peony, a child monk, etc., all of which are the symbol of married couple’s long and happy union “till death them to part” and hwagwan; or wonsam and jokduri . When one’s parents were alive when the person turned hoi-gap (61 years old in Korean age), the person used to see his parent wearing o-bang-jang durumagi ,
jeonbok and bokgun as in the case of dol (one year old in Korean age) Sangbok is clothes for funerals which is white and simple; and represents sorrow for the death and a low-key attitude. At ancestral rites, one used to wear white or jade-green and simple clothes to show respect toward one’s ancestors. Likewise, we can find one’s wish for living a better life in harmony with others’ in Korean clothes.
O-bang-jang durumagi , worn in the banquet celebrating hoigap
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03 The Story of Hanbok in History
CLOTHING of Korean People, from Crown to Toe The origin of hanbok dates back to the Neolithic Age. One cannot know the exact form of clothes of the Age, but we can assume that the clothes of the times were made of animal skin or hem cloth. Since then, a two-piece format attire (influenced by Scythian attire) has taken root in Korea, with the characteristics of horse-riding people living in the North being added. This has become a basic form of hanbok. In the Three Kingdoms Period of Goguryeo, Baekje and Silla, various types of clothes were made. In the process of ancient state building, the institution of costumes was arranged and established. What is noteworthy is that this is when the basic composition of hanbok including baji, jeogori,
chima and po was created. Based on the caste system, the attire began to be categorized into those for the nobility and for ordinary people. The clothes of the king and the nobility were splendid and colorful to represent the wearers’ wealth and power. As for public officials, depending on their rank and status, the color of their official hat, decorations of the official and the clothes were designed to be different. Even though the clothes slightly differed from kingdom to kingdom, the basic form of hanbok was similar in Goguryeo, Baekje and Silla. The details of hanbok of this period can be found on the mural paintings of the ancient tombs of Goguryeo. Upper garment jeogori and po had straight git (collar) and were adjusted with it. On the border of the clothes were there decorative lines, and the sleeves were narrow. Jeogori was long enough to cover the wearer’s bottom; and po was long enough to cover the calves and it had waist strings. There were different types of baji including wide-legged, narrow legged types and so on. The types of footwear also varied, including both shoes and boots. In this period, men wore hats decorated with feathers.
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A men during the times of Goguryo dressed in baji and joegori while wearing jowoogwan decorated with bird feather on his head. (Murals from the tombs of the Goguryo Dynasty)
A woman of Goguryo dressed in pleated skirt and jeogori
Assuming the Nation’s Stability and Richness through People’s Splendid Costumes Since the unified the Silla period, the types of attire were divided into the original form of hanbok and foreign-style hanbok imported from China. That’s because the clothes of the Silla Dynasty began to be influenced by the clothes of the Tang dynasty, especially luxury clothes of the ruling class, since the Silla became actively engaged in trade and exchanges of goods with the Tang after unification of the three kingdoms. At that time, one’s status was distinguished by the clothes they wore. However, when luxurious clothing habits began to negatively affect the caste system of the country and its economy, In 834, King Heungdeok , the 42nd King in the history of the Silla Dynasty, imposed limits on the clothing culture of ordinary people in order to prevent excessive spending on clothing. Considering the fact that this measure limited the types and fabrics of clothes that people of a particular status could wear, we can assume that there were various types and fabrics of clothes. The nobility used to wear dallyeongpo as their official clothes which were imported from the Tang Dynasty, and ordinary men and women used to wear the usual hanbok with Banbi (an outer coat with short sleeves) which was also imported from the Tang. As for women, they wore dang-ui which is short jeogori worn over underclothes. On special occasions, they wore pyo-ui (a type of po) and tied waist straps made of cloth over it. Over pyo-ui , only women wore baedang (sleeveless clothes which is a type of baeja ). However, those foreign types of clothes were not accessible to ordinary people.
Male and female toyong s (dolls made of clay) dressed in long po , Age unknown, Housed in Chonbuk National University
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03 The Story of Hanbok in History
Foreign cultures have changed some clothing habits of Koreans Even after the Goryeo (918-1392) dynasty was established, ordinary men and women still wore the clothes of the Silla period, but the nobility began to embrace the clothes of the Song, Yuan and Ming dynasties. At the same time, they began to create the institution of costume on their own, so the clothes of the king and public officials saw changes in some ways. In particular, during the late Goryeo period, dress culture was influenced by that of Mongolia and the clothes of the Yuan Dynasty were very popular. At that time, a trend called Mongopung emerged. Similarly, the clothes of Goryeo gained traction in Mongolia were called Goryeoyang by the locals. The clothing of both the Mongolian and Goryeo dynasties had a mutual influence on one another, and thus dictated their development. Some of the custom and clothes that were created at the time remain today. Meanwhile, the form of hanbok began to change gradually since then. The bottom-length jeogori became shorter so that it came to only cover the waistline. Also, the upper garment was worn held together with knotted buttons, a style influenced by the clothes of the Yuan Dynasty. The sleeves became wider and long enough to cover one’s hands. When it comes to women’s skirts, women wore skirts with a lot of frills. Baekjepo made of ramie were very popular with both men and women.
A look in white baekjepo . Korean national treasure
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A look in po over chima and jeogori which covers the waistline.
Proper clothing can lead to appropriate manners and etiquette The clothes of the Goryeo period had remained unchanged until the early Joseon Dynasty, but began to change gradually and developed their own unique style. During the early Joseon period, Koreans embraced the clothes of the Ming and the Qing dynasties in their existing form, but then began to make their own clothes independently. Also, one of the characteristics of clothing in the Joseon dynasty was the abundance of clothes for ceremonial occasions. The ruling principle of the Joseon kingdom was Confucianism so that the manners were of paramount importance. Confucianism also guided the norms of daily life. Therefore, the clothes also had to be designed in a way that showed respect and kept one’s manners. Codes such as Gyeongguk daejeon or
Gukjo oryeui specified the details of clothes for the king, the nobility and ordinary people. In other words, according to the law, the wearer had to wear clothes with certain colors, patterns, fabrics, materials and accessories, according to their social status. Also, the ruling class both wore imported attire as well as native dress depending on the situation, even though Joseon had its own sartorial institutions. Ordinary people wore indigenous clothing, which has also seen changes over time.
Samhoijang jeogori has additional cloth attached to git, goreum , kkeutdong and gyeotmagi .
Cheolik , men’s outer coat that is made by sewing pleated skirt and jeogori together.
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03 The Story of Hanbok in History
A court robe. Dang -ui with patterns representing one’s wish for longevity and good luck.
(the left side) Hyang -gap norigae (fragrant norigae ) / Norigae is a traditional ornament that women used to hang on the goreum or on the chima heor i (the waist of the skirt) while dressing up. (the right side) Jasu geobuk norigae (norigae embroidered with turtles)
Hwa-gwan (coronet) ornamented with various types of jewelry
One kind the women’s clothing, jeogori, which had been waist length, shortened to breast length in the mid and late Joseon period, hence the look of a tight top and loose skirt. The jacket, which makes the upper body look very small, while the skirt worn wrapped around the waist makes the lower body look full, creates an attractive balance. Clothes for ordinary men were further diversified, and there were various types of po such as dallyeong, dapo, cheolik , and aekjureumpo. Since the 17th century, the details of those clothes also began to change. In addition, the various types of outer coats meant that men enjoyed more freedom in outer coat styling than women did. The basic clothing culture has not changed much, but over time, the types have become varied and the unique aesthetic style with unique clothes and ornaments has developed. Based on this, we can say that the history of
hanbok reflects the gentle but persistent characteristics of the Korean people and their enduring sense of national identity. 40
ADVISOR Costume Design & ProductionㅣGRETA LEE HairㅣLIM SOO BIN Make-upㅣLEE HAE YOUNG Costume and Accessory cooperation Obangjang Durumagi (clothes for a one-year-old baby)ㅣLEE YOUNG YIM Obangjang Durumagi (clothes for 60-year-old birthday), Hwagwan ㅣKIM IN JA Cheolik ㅣSOH HWANG OAK DANG-UI, Samhoijang jeogori ㅣGRETA LEE Norigae ㅣSIM YOUNG MI The courtesy of images (the PART 3) Portrait of Yi Je-hyeonㅣNATIONAL MUSEUM OF KOREA Portrait of Jo Ban’s wifeㅣNATIONAL MUSEUM OF KOREA Male and female toyong s (dolls made of clay)ㅣCHON-BUK NATIONAL UNIVERSITY MUSEUM ※THE IMAGES ARE APPROVED FOR USAGE IN THE BOOK “the STORY OF HANBOK ” UNDER THE KOREA OPEN GOVERNMENT LICENSE (KOGL) (THE part 3).
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