Koreamagazine1608 en by KOCIS

CONTENTS

Special Issue

Korea in Brief

Night Breathes Life into Traditional Markets

Korea Monthly Update

Policy Review

The Next Silicon Valley?

Cover Story

Korean Musicals Take Center Stage

Home-grown musicals develop an international fan base

Creative Economy

Powering the Future of Motoring

Travel

Brand Korea

Another Side to Busan

Korean Crafts a Hit in Paris

People 1

Global Korea

Novelist Jeong You Jeong

Helping Artists Achieve Their Dreams

People 2

Arirang School founder Moon Hyun-woo

Flavor

Samgyetang

Korean Keyword

Arts & Entertainment

Aegyo

K-Pop Rising

34 Korea & I

Rediscovering Spelunking in Korea

August 2016

KOREA

Publisher Kim Kabsoo, Korean Culture and Information Service Executive Producer Park Byunggyu Editorial Advisers Cho Won-hyung, Lee Suwan, Park Inn-seok Email webmaster@korea.net Magazine Production Seoul Selection Editor-in-Chief Robert Koehler Production Supervisor Lee Jin-hyuk Producers Kim Eugene, Im Ian Copy Editors Gregory C. Eaves, Eileen Cahill Creative Director Lee Seung Ho Designers Lee Bok-hyun, Jung Hyun-young Photographers aostudio Kang jinju, RAUM Studio Printing Pyung Hwa Dang Printing Co., Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without permission from KOREA and the Korean Culture and Information Service. If you want to receive a free copy of KOREA or wish to cancel a subscription, please email us. A downloadable PDF of KOREA and a map and glossary with common Korean words appearing in our magazine are available by clicking on the thumbnail of KOREA at the website www.korea.net. Publication Registration No: 11-1110073-000016-06 Cover photo “Hero” © Acom co,.Ltd

Special Issue

ÂŠ Robert Koehler

Night Breathes Life into Traditional Markets ÂŠ Jung-Gu, Daegu Metropolitan City

Old spaces become nighttime hot spots and rejuvenate local communities _ Written by Lim Jeong-yeo

KOREA _ August _ 4

In a world where a mobile phone has the power to bring groceries to the door, traditional markets were all but forgotten until recently. Sales at Korea’s old-fashioned markets had plummeted, and the livelihoods of independent merchants were disappearing along with them. Night markets are an attempt to resuscitate these languid local communities. Several traditional markets have become hangouts for young people and families after sundown. This is benefiting the local economies and creating jobs for young people in provincial towns. The night market project has met with great enthusiasm from tourists and young people, who say they enjoy the exotic atmosphere. Four night markets are currently operating with government support, the first of which was established in 2013 in Busan. The others are in Jeonju, Mokpo and Gyeongju. This year the Ministry of the Interior plans to open night markets in Buyeo, Gwangju and Ulsan. By early next year, it expects to have four more: in Incheon, Ulsan, Donghae and Jeju.

New forms of entertainment

2 Mascot of the Daegu Gyodong Dokkaebi Night Market 3 Roasted pork at Gyeongju Jungang Market

The market itself predates the Korean War. The Korean word kkangtong, meaning tin can, refers to the wartime canned food supply from the United States. The historic space became the first of its kind to feature a night market. College student Lim Jeesong, who recently returned from a weekend trip to Busan with a group of friends, said he could go on endlessly about the food she saw at the famous night market. “Baked clams topped with melted cheese, tropical fruit juice squeezed on the spot, boneless chicken drumsticks stuffed with fried rice fillings, skewered fish cakes and rice cakes, boiled eggs wrapped in bacon and barbecued, imported liquor and candies.” Lim said the market alleys were chock-full of young people, families and non-Koreans. She also noticed that some of the vendors seemed to be around her age or not too much older. Lim compared the night market to the food stalls in Seoul’s Myeong-dong. “It’s kind of similar in that they have original snacks you can’t find elsewhere,” she said. “I would definitely come back here next time I’m in Busan.”

Jeonju Nambu Market

Jeonju is known for its traditional Korean architecture, its annual film festival and its diverse street food, all of which fan tourists’ enthusiasm for the city.

The Korean government estimates that the four markets together have welcomed more than 17,000 visitors a day on average, generating profits of KRW 690 million (USD 588,000) every month and creating at least 300 jobs. Visitors said the markets represent the local community in a positive way by showcasing local artists’ handicrafts, selling regional specialties products, and staging cultural performances. In a survey targeting non-Korean tourists, respondents were asked what activities they were most interested in experiencing when in Korea, and 47.4 percent said they wanted to visit traditional markets. A further 54.2 percent said they wanted to try the local street food and 50.4 percent said they wanted to visit a Hanok house.

1 Busan Bupyeong Kkangtong Night Market

Busan Bupyeong Kkangtong Market

The Bupyeong Kkangtong Market opened in October 2013 in the district of Jung-gu in Busan. Since then it has been featured in a number of English media outlets including Tripadvisor, Stripes Korea and HiExpat Korea.

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Jeonju-born Seoulite Moon Young proudly promotes the Nambu Night Market, which has steadily gained popularity since opening in October 2014. “Inside the market, there’s an area called the Cheongnyeon Mall, which means it’s run by the youth for the youth,” Moon said. “In one 1 corner there is always a live music performance.” On a recent trip back home, Moon spent “family time” exploring the market streets with her mother. “Personally, I think the night market in Jeonju is better than Seoul’s Bukchon Hanok Village,” she said. “The market has so many things all gathered in one spot, and it’s conveniently located next to Jeonju’s Hanok Village. So the place is always crowded with tourists from other towns and even abroad.” Among the foods featured at Jeonju’s market are rose pancakes, sweet meatballs, torch-seared beef, and bite-sized steaks of every kind of meat. Visitors can try on traditional attire and stroll through the time-capsule streets lined with Hanok homes and bed-and-breakfasts.

Mokpo Namjin Market

The Mokpo Namjin Market is named after the city’s famous singer Nam Jin, who came to the opening ceremony to meet and greet marketgoers. Since opening in mid-December 2015, the market is seeing over 2,000 daily visitors and more than KRW 500,000 in profits per day per vendor, according to the Mokpo merchants’ guild. The success of the night market is spilling over and benefiting existing merchants, too, who have reported a 20 percent sales hike. The Mokpo night market sells local delicacies such as fried pancakes with cinnamon and honey, chicken feet, fermented fish sashimi, mussels, and spicy squid wrapped around a stick. The city’s immigrants show off their cooking skills with authentic Southeast Asian food. Handmade goods are sold alongside the food. University clubs perform flamenco dances on stage, while from another corner of the market visitors can hear Nam Jin’s recorded songs.

1 Mokpo Namjin Market is named for the famous singer Nam Jin. 2 Gwangju Daein Art Market 3 Bread shaped like Hanok homes is sold at Jeonju Nambu Market.

Gyeongju Jungang Market

The Gyeongju Jungang Market is the fourth traditional market to become a night market. In April 2016, it began opening for business every evening from 6:30 p.m. to midnight, except on the first and

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meanwhile, offers artists free space to hold exhibits and meet with the public.

15th day of each month. In the historic city that once was the capital of ancient Silla, young people now serve up authentic Pakistani kebabs, Vietnamese pho, pad thai noodles from Thailand and more. Korean snacks, such as pigs’ feet, blood sausage and locally fermented alcohol, are also available.

More to come

Gwangju Daein Art Market

Gwangju’s Daein Market first opened in 1976. It soon became one of the largest traditional markets in the southwestern province of Jeollanam-do. When the provincial capital moved from Gwangju to Muan in 2005, however, the market began to decline. To bring life back to the market, the Gwangju Biennale dispatched a group of artists to live and work in the market in 2008. The move proved a success, and today, the market is filled with tourists armed with cameras and maps to its many workshops, cafes and art spaces. The Daein Art Night Market is held on the fourth Friday and Saturday of the month, 7:30 p.m. to midnight, from June to October. The night market features not only exhibits by resident artists where visitors can purchase unique works of art, but also a special market where local residents sell handicrafts and second-hand goods. The Han Pyeong Gallery,

4 People wait in line as their food is prepared at Daegu Gyodong Dokkaebi Night Market. 5 People flood Daegu’s Seomun Night Market.

Buyeo’s Baekje Market, Gwangju’s Namgwangju market and Ulsan’s Jungang Market are slated to open no later than October this year. Daegu’s Gyodong Dokkaebi Market and Seomun Market also have night markets. The Ministry of the Interior said that unemployed young people would constitute 50 percent of the vendors, and that the marketplaces would enable them to start their own businesses. Multicultural families, low-income families and senior citizens will also be encouraged to take part. In a separate move, Seoul Metropolitan City has opened four night markets not associated with traditional markets. Open every weekend night at Yeouido Hangang Park, Dongdaemun Design Plaza, Cheonggye Plaza and Mokdong Stadium, these markets operate independently and feature different themes: internationalism at Yeouido, youth fashion at Dongdaemun, crafts at Cheonggye and outdoor leisure at Mokdong.

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Cover Story

Korean Musicals Take Center Stage Homegrown musicals develop an international fan base _ Written by Park Young Hee, actor, director and co-founder of JAM Box Theatre Company

__ These days, it’s common for Chinese and Japanese fans to fly to Seoul just to line up outside venues in the Daehangno district that feature the latest local musical productions. To many Koreans, this is all quite new and shocking, but they’re gradually becoming accustomed to Seoul being seen as a major player.

KOREA _ August _ 8

What do you think of upon hearing the words, “Korean Wave?” Do you think of the Korean soap opera sensation that’s producing fervent fans around the world? Or perhaps international K-pop stars such as Psy and “Gangnam Style” or G-Dragon? That may be, but when asked about what’s hot these days, some people will think of the rise of musicals, which are rapidly spreading throughout Asia and across the world. In recent years, the Korean musical industry has grown into one of the largest in the world, joining giants like the United States and the United Kingdom. Consequently, producers and directors involved in major non-Korean productions are starting to recognize the importance of the Korean market. These days, it’s common for Chinese and Japanese fans to fly to Seoul just to line up outside venues in the Daehangno district that feature the latest local productions. To many Koreans, who grew up thinking of New York’s Broadway and London’s West End as the meccas of musicals, this is all quite new and shocking, but they’re gradually becoming accustomed to Seoul being seen as a major player.

Incredible growth since 2000

In the late 1990s, “The Last Empress,” which was already a big hit in local theaters, became the first Korean production to debut on Broadway, leading to an era of incredible market growth in the new millennium. At one point, production was so active that audiences couldn't keep up. Fortunately, the industry acquired fresh vigor as quality Korean productions began infiltrating non-Korean markets. In 2001, for example, “Line 1” became the first Korean production to debut in China, where it received a good response, and the consistent success of nonverbal productions such as “Nanta,” “Jump” and “Sachoom” has inspired CJ E&M, a marketing and content company, to pursue co-productions with Chinese firms. In Japan, Korean productions were limited to intermittent performances that were held upon invitation, but after the 2010 rendition of “Mozart!” which starred former TVXQ member Kim Junsu, Korean productions skyrocketed in popularity among Japanese audiences. Interestingly enough, although “Mozart!” nearly flopped when it first debuted, shows started selling out after the

Scene in “The Last Empress” where Queen Min marries King Gojong.

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KOREA _ August _ 10

Compared with their American and British counterparts, however, Korean musicals are still young. Long before Korean performers fully adopted Western musicals in 1966, Koreans flocked to performances of changgeuk, Korean traditional opera based on a storytelling form known as Pansori, as well as the slightly more modern musikdrama that truly expressed the Korean spirit. In 1966, the Yegreen Troupe gained mass appeal by performing “Sneak Up on Me,” a story based on the classic novel “Baebijangjeon,” which is regarded today as Korea’s first work of modern musical theater. When the production’s soundtrack was released on vinyl, the title track, performed by legendary singer Patti Kim, topped the nation’s pop charts, marking a spectacular beginning to Korean musicals. Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, Korean musicals mainly thrived in smaller venues. At the center of the scene, however, was Hyundai Theatre Company, which supercharged the industry with productions such as

Korean productions expand global market

(Top) “Frankenstein” (Bottom) “Sherlock Holmes”

K-pop icon was cast, which set the stage for a smooth transition into the Japanese market. Initially, the success of Korean musicals was limited to productions featuring pop stars, but fans have since developed a greater appreciation for other talented performers and actors. Korean productions are now regularly featured in Tokyo’s Amuse Musical Theater, which opened in 2013. When Korean musicals first ventured abroad, local production crews and actors had to take frequent international tours, but production rights are now sold to overseas companies. The rights for three major Korean productions, “Bballae,” “Finding Mr. Destiny” and “Bachelor’s Vegetable Store,” have been sold to companies in Japan and China, and “Frankenstein,” “Sherlock Holmes” and “Hero” recently joined their ranks. __ “Bachelor’s Vegetable Store” has been licensed for local productions in Japan and China, demonstrating the potential for Korean shows abroad.

Nanta is a groundbreaking nonverbal performance that turned kitchen utensils into musical instruments. © Live Corp.

“Bachelor’s Vegetable Store” tells the story of youth who hold on to hope despite difficult circumstances.

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A story of first love, “Finding Mr. Destiny” was a critical and commercial success.

Hong _Kwang-ho, KOREA August _ 12 the actor seen here without an umbrella in “Bballae,” was the first Korean performer to star in a West End production.

__ As Korean companies increasingly obtain the rights for major overseas musicals, it’s essential to continually develop original productions to maintain a balanced market.

“Jesus Christ Superstar,” “Evita” and “Les Misérables.” Thanks to such persistent growth, the 1990s saw the rise of theaters that focused on musicals, such as the Lotte Art Hall, presently the Lotte Card Art Hall. Although it no longer exclusively produces musicals, the theater’s productions of “West Side Story,” “Les Misérables” and “Man of La Mancha” throughout the 1990s recruited increasingly talented performers, while stage crews perfected their stagecraft. Consequently, they proved to audiences that the Korean market could also release high-quality productions. Encouraged by this success, companies started actively pursuing the rights for major overseas productions. Starting with Acom in the mid-1990s, musical companies soon sprouted up, and the new millennium gave rise to firms like CJ E&M, Seol and Company, OD Company and Show Note. In just one decade, the Korean musical industry skyrocketed from around KRW 20 billion to over KRW 200 billion. As Korean companies increasingly obtain the rights for major overseas musicals, it’s essential to continually develop original productions to maintain a properly balanced market. In the early 1990s, original Korean productions primarily revolved around smaller theaters. In 1995, however, Yun Ho-jin’s “The Last Empress” obtained a record-breaking budget of KRW 1.2 billion to become Korea’s first major original musical, and was received favorably by both audiences and critics alike, thus launching Korean musicals into a grand new era. “The Last Empress” also marks the directorial debut of Kolleen Park, Korea’s first prominent musical director and conductor, and became the first original Korean production to run on Broadway and in the West End. Not only have Korean musicals become widely popular nationwide, they’re now performed in venues across China and Japan. No longer focused on expressing Korean sentiments, directors and writers are exploring more universal

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and diverse themes that can appeal to non-Korean audiences. Furthermore, with the increasing number of venues designed specifically for musicals ‒ such as Charlotte Theater in Jamsil-dong, Blue Square in Hannam-dong and the D-Cube Arts Center in Sindorim-dong ‒ Korean productions can now run for even longer.

Success based on talent and local traditions

“Mata Hari” stars Ock Joo-hyun.

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opened in the late 1970s, it absorbed the Yegreen Troupe and established the Seoul Metropolitan Musical Theater, which began producing original musicals and nurturing performers who specialized in the genre. The 1990s saw the rise of Korea’s first generation of professional musical theater stars, including Nam Kyeong-ju, Nam Kyeong-eup and Choi Jung-won. Although Nam Kyeong-ju and Choi Jungwon are well into their 40s, they’re still active and performing. With appearances in such productions as “Chicago” and “Kiss Me, Kate,” they continue to uphold their reputations as industry veterans. The establishment of academic departments devoted to the genre meant more and more performers now undergo systematic training. Compared with performers in the West, Korean performers are more accustomed to shorter runs and have been conditioned to adapt to a variety of styles, factors which have greatly driven the Korean industry’s rapid growth. In the new millennium, the Korean scene produced big names that attracted a loyal following, beginning with Oh Man-seok of “The Rocky Horror Show” and continuing

Musica

KOREA _ August _ 14

Comedian-turned-musical actor Jung Sung-hwa is in “Hero.”

It seems difficult to deny that Koreans’ longtime affinity for song, music and dance has provided a stable social base upon which musicals have prospered. Old-time Koreans wouldn’t hesitate to hold songand-dance celebrations at the local market or in a neighbor’s yard, and held frequent performances that were rich in amusing tales and satire. So musicals may be the optimal performance genre for modern Koreans. The rapid growth of Korean musicals over a brief period can also be attributed to industry talent and dedication as well as to the passion of Korean performers. When the Sejong Center for the Performing Arts

“Dracula” stars Kim Junsu.

__ The rapid growth of Korean musicals in a brief period can also be attributed to industry talent and dedication, as well as to the passion of Korean performers.

“Chicago” stars Jeon Soo-Kyeong (left) and Choi Jung-won (right).

Jo Seung-woo is in “Hedwig and the Angry Inch.”

with Jo Seung-woo and his role in “Hedwig and the Angry Inch.” Jo Seung-woo’s appearance in “Jekyll and Hide” and “Man of La Mancha” caused both shows to sell out almost as soon as tickets went on sale. Performers boasting both singing and acting chops, such as Jo Seung-woo, Oh Man-seok, Jo Jung-suk and Um Ki-joon, quickly developed into powerhouse names that attracted die-hard fan bases and boosted ticket sales. The arrival of pop stars, who already had massive domestic and international followings, began a new trend in Korean musicals. A move to draw larger crowds, the casting of pop stars in Korean musicals has stirred much controversy. Opportunities for industry professionals have diminished, and observers have cited the problems of casting young pop icons, fledglings in terms of musicals, for lead roles. The practice of casting K-pop names began with Bada, Ock Joo-hyun and Kim Junsu, who, despite initial controversy concerning their talent as actors, gradually silenced naysayers with their vocal abilities and the undeniable ability to boost ticket sales. Having proven their abilities across a wide spectrum of productions, they have

since been recognized by fans as worthy of their place onstage. Some performers have made it onto stages in Japan and the United Kingdom. In the mid-2000s, productions by the Shiki Theatre Company, one of Japan’s premier producers of musicals, recruited Korean actors Kim Ji-hyeon, Kang Miae and Lee Ju-yeon for lead roles, to the delight of Japanese fans. Last year, Yang Joon-mo garnered public attention by becoming the first non-Shiki performer from Korea to take a lead role in a Japanese production, playing Jean Valjean in “Les Misérables.” Hong Kwang-ho became the first Korean to perform in the West End, playing Thuy in the 25th anniversary revival of “Miss Saigon.” His performance won him the prize for Best Supporting Actor at the 2014 BroadwayWorld UK / West End Awards.

Daegu International Musical Festival and beyond Korean musicals are slowly venturing outside Seoul’s Daehangno district and furthering the cultural enrichment and economic progress of other provinces. A good illustration of this phenomenon is the Daegu International Musical Festival

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Opening ceremony of the 2015 DIMF Awards at Daegu Opera House.

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sword. Increased involvement from conglomerates like CJ Group and Lotte continues to fan more opposition and anxiety among industry insiders. Yet corporate influence in the industry has already become irreversible, so artists and investors must devise measures that encourage cooperation and mutual growth. It’s imperative to pressure corporate investors to continue fostering new talent, consistently sponsor local original productions and work to expose Korean musicals to wider non-Korean audiences. Of course, it’s also essential for the public sector to serve as a stabilizing force through long-term measures and ongoing support. If Korea’s community of directors, writers, producers and performers can efficiently collaborate with both public and private sponsors, it should not be infeasible for the Korean musical scene to join the ranks of Broadway and the West End. After signing a recent deal for Korean productions to tour China, one Chinese producer said, “Korean musicals have a unique energy that is not present in Chinese or Japanese productions. The explosive talent and energy of the performers enrapture audiences who cannot even understand the lyrics. From the lead role to the musical ensemble, they all exude that uniquely Korean energy and vitality. Korean stories, on the other hand, present Chinese audiences with an exotic lure while still appealing to certain commonalities.”

__ The Daegu International Musical Festival is the world’s first festival devoted to musical theater. It celebrates its 10th anniversary this year. © DIMF

(DIMF), the world’s first festival devoted to musicals, which is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year. The DIMF aims to secure consistent collaboration between local and foreign production companies, and in 2010 signed a deal with the city of Dongguan in China. The DIMF production of “Turandot” went on to win the Special Grand Prize at the third Dongguan International Musical Festival in 2011. “Turandot” is scheduled to run in August at the Harbin Opera House to commemorate the anniversary of its opening. The DIMF not only supports original productions but invests in university musical festivals to scout new talent, striving to balance Korea’s market with more local productions. The festival’s opening and closing ceremonies both incorporate programs that encourage local residents to participate, an effort to make the event into something for everyone and not just for a small number of musical fans. On June 24, the DIMF held its 10th gala, which featured a diverse range of productions from many countries, including “Madame de Pompadour” from Slovakia; “Gambrinus,” an exploration of the musical identity of Russian gypsies; and the West End’s rendition of “Legally Blonde.” In a short time, Korean musicals have made both massive and humble strides to achieve today’s dazzling success. Yet many are pointing to the growing influence of corporate sponsors as a double-bladed

Interview

Better Talent Leads to Better Productions ‘Bballae’ director Choo Min-joo discusses why Korean musicals are succeeding _ Written by Robert Koehler

“It’s about love that becomes known through doing laundry. Because of laundry, the heroine Nayeong falls in love with the man who lives next door, and she learns how to love through laundry when she’s suffered a wrongful termination.” That’s what “Bballae,” or “Laundry,” is all about, says director Choo Minjoo, who also wrote the long-running musical. Since its debut in 2005, the show has been staged over 3,000 times before 50,000 theatergoers in Korea, China and Japan. The production has demonstrated the potential of Korean creative performances overseas. Choo explains that the first country to show interest in the show was even further away. “The first person to respond to the show was an Egyptian theatergoer,” she says. “Unfortunately, we could not go to Egypt, but people from halfway around the globe with a very different culture from Korea liked the show.” The show’s international appeal may stem from the universal nature of its story, she says. “The show tells the tale of the majority of migrants living in the city,” she says. “It shows that not only Solongo, the young man from Mongolia, migrated

to the city. Few people are born and raised in Seoul; most are people who struggled to live in the city. It tells of the suffering of people who moved to the city and tries to soothe that suffering.” Indeed, Choo herself is a native of the southeastern city of Daegu and a migrant to Seoul. “Bballae” is partially based on her own experiences when she moved to the city.

Satisfied fans and an expanding talent pool “Bballae” is one of several Korean productions that are succeeding not only at home, but abroad. According to Choo, Korea’s musical scene is unique due to the bewildering growth in its creative productions and its receptive audience. “Fans buy tickets because they like musicals,” she says. “They create discussion, which creates stars. This

brings in good talent to write or score musicals.” It’s true that local productions of big Broadway and West End shows have helped grow the Korean musical market. “But even before that,” she adds, “Koreans traditionally have enjoyed musical theater, and they have been making musicals on their own.” Indeed, the growth in Korea’s musical scene has largely been thanks to an expanding talent pool. Good productions came after more actors and more writers started to work on musicals rather than other genres. Then the money started to flow in, she says. “New works were staged, and audiences began showing interest,” she says. “We found space to breathe, and it became fun to be in that space.” For the musical scene to continue to grow, artists need to find their own stories rather than rely on established tales. A sense of modesty might help, too. “We shouldn’t be simply filled with confidence just because Chinese or Japanese theatergoers are interested in Korean musicals,” she says. “We should strive to satisfy the tastes of the audiences.”

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Travel

Perched atop cliffs, Hinyeoul Culture Village is often likened to the Greek island of Santorini. KOREA _ August _ 18

Another Side to Busan Get off the beaten track and discover some of the hidden gems of Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s second city _ Written and photographed by Robert Koehler

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The leaf of Yeongdo Bridge lifts at 2 p.m. every day.

If you’re willing to make the effort, the city’s picturesque islands and relatively remote stretches of coast are perfect places to recharge.

As Korea’s second-biggest city and its most important port, Busan is one of Korea’s top travel destinations, especially in summer, when Haeundae Beach - the “Korean Riviera” - is so densely packed with people that you could walk from one end to the other with your toes never touching sand. You don’t need to travel far to get away from the crowds, however. Some of Busan’s most scenic spots are well off the proverbial beaten track. If you’re willing to make the effort, the city’s picturesque islands and relatively remote stretches of coast are perfect places to recharge amid nature and history.

Busan icons: Yeongdo Bridge and fish cakes Downtown Busan, seen from Mt. Bongnaesan

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Yeongdo is a large island separated from mainland Busan by a narrow channel.

The northern part of the island, linked to downtown Busan by several bridges, is densely urbanized, but the mountainous middle and southern regions are characterized by wooded hillsides, scenic coastlines and older, picturesque communities. In fact, on much of the island, you’d hardly know that you’re in Korea’s second-largest city at all. The combination of history, nature and almost rustic charm, combined with its proximity to downtown, make it a perfect summertime retreat for Busan residents. One of Yeongdo’s best-known historical sites is the iconic Yeongdo Bridge, which connects the northern, urban part of the island with downtown Busan’s waterfront area and Jagalchi Market, Korea’s largest fish market. Built in 1934, it is Korea’s only drawbridge. In the old days, the northern span would lift seven times a day to allow boats and ships

Visitors stroll along the Hinyeoul-gil.

to pass, much to the awe and amusement of locals and tourists, who flocked to the bridge in droves to watch. Nowadays, it lifts only once a day at 2 p.m., but still very much to the delight of tourists. During the Korean War, refugees from other parts of Korea gathered at the bridge - then Busan’s best-known landmark - to search for lost family members. Around the southern end of the bridge is a colorful waterfront district where, at night, you’ll find plenty of food stalls selling raw fish and other eats meant to be washed down with liberal amounts of soju. Also in this area is the historic Bongnaesan Market, a sprawling web of alleys lined by small shops of all kinds. Bridge and road development and the formation of the Namhang Market just across the strait have reduced the market’s importance, but it’s still a vibrant

Hinyeoul Culture Village was used as a backdrop in the hit film “The Attorney.”

place. One spot of particular culinary importance is Busan Samjin Eomuk, the best-known manufacturer of Busan’s famous fish cakes, or eomuk. Founded in 1953, Busan Samjin Eomuk operates a workshop/shop/museum/hands-on classroom in the market, the company’s original home. Try the eomuk croquettes. They are fantastic. Another spot near Yeongdo Bridge is the Namhang-dong area, where the many shipyards are usually busy repairing and maintaining the countless ships that call Busan Harbor home. You can take in spectacular views of Yeongdo’s waterfront area - and the rest of Busan Harbor, for that matter from the rooftop garden of the massive department that overlooks the Yeongdo Bridge in Gwangbok-dong.

Several flights of steps link Hinyeoul Culture Village with the sea below.

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Taejongsa Temple is famous for its many hydrangeas.

Taejongsa is renowned for its many spectacular hydrangeas, which are in bloom from late June to September. It’s a lovely place, especially when the rain and fog add an extra level of mystery.

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Korea’s other Santorini

Yeongdo’s picturesque western coast is, in terms of atmosphere, as far removed from Busan’s urban jungle as you can get. The jumble of glass, concrete and steel gives way to relaxing seaside walkways and picturesque villages atop dramatic coastal cliffs. This is where you go to relax, take in the views and breathe in the salt air. The Jeoryeong Coastal Walkway in Yeongseon-dong is a beautiful trail flanked by the deep blue sea on one side and rugged, weather-beaten cliffs on the other. Go in the morning, and you’ll find plenty of locals taking their constitutionals or engaging in light exercise. Dozens of large ships are usually moored on the horizon. Above the cliffs, meanwhile, is the

Hinyeoul-gil, or “White Rapids Path,” which runs through a charming old village perched rather precariously atop the precipice. The village, originally a shantytown formed by refugees during the Korean War, is sometimes called “Korea’s Santorini,” a distinction it shares with another old Busan shantytown, Gamcheon Culture Village. Unlike the heavily touristed and highly commercialized Gamcheon Village, however, Hinyeoul Culture Village is still a tranquil seaside community. Here and there you’ll see laundry hung out to dry, small vegetable gardens, and clay pots where locals ferment sauces and other condiments. Thanks to the village’s rustic charm and scenic views over the sea, film directors have used it as a backdrop,

View out the window of Hinyeoul Culture Village’s tourist information center.

Yeongdo’s picturesque western coast is, in terms of atmosphere, as far removed from Busan’s urban jungle as you can get.

most notably in the hit 2013 film “The Attorney,” based on the early life of late Korean President Roh Moo-hyun. Six local artists have also tastefully spruced up the place with colorful murals, too, to draw tourists. If you’re feeling a bit hungry or thirsty, one of the homes has been turned into a café with inspiring views from the second floor. Another empty home has been turned into a tourist information center where you can pick up Korean-language maps of the village.

Bird’s-eye views

Murals (top) and stairs (bottom) of Hinyeoul Culture Village

The center of Yeongdo is occupied by Mt. Bongnaesan, a 395-meter peak that is the island’s most significant topographical feature. In the old days, the mountain was said to be the home of Taoist fairies. The fairies have since moved out, however, to be replaced by television, radio and communication companies that have set up relay stations near the peak. Much of the mountain is covered in beautiful, thick forests that generously provide shade from the summer sun. Near the peak is a small park with a couple of observatories that provide some

of the most awe-inspiring views in all of Busan. Go in the late afternoon/early evening, when you can take in the sunset over the city and the electric night views of downtown. One scenic point is the Busan Harbor Bridge, a 1.11-kilometer, 60-meter high cable-stayed span over the body of water for which it is named. A nice thing about Mt. Bongnaesan is that it’s possible to drive almost to the peak, which is perfect if you lack the time or inclination for a proper hike. On the minus side, however, the peak is sometimes obscured by clouds and/or by Busan’s famous fog. You don’t need to go all the way to the peak for good views, however. On the eastern flank of the mountain is Cheonghak-dong Baesuji Observatory, which offers views of Busan Harbor Bridge and Sunrise Village, a delightfully chaotic collection of hillside alleys lined by colorful homes overlooking the harbor. You can take in views of the sunrise from the observation deck of Yeongdo-gu Office or from the National Maritime Museum.

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1. Busan Harbor and the Busan Harbor Bridge at night, seen from Mt. Bongnaesan 2. The rocky islets of Oryukdo 3. Gijang’s Haedong Yonggungsa, a rare Buddhist temple on the sea 4. Lighthouse, Taejongdae

Cliffs and hydrangeas of Taejongdae

One spot of particular culinary importance is Busan Samjin Eomuk, the best-known manufacturer of Busan’s famous fish cakes.

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At the southernmost tip of Yeongdo is Taejongdae, a scenic coastline composed of craggy cliffs topped by gnarled pines. The 100-meter cliffs, battered by the waves and the wind, offer views of some of Busan’s offshore islands, including Oryukdo, a chain of rocky islets that is a symbol of Busan. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the Japanese island of Tsushima. The best way to see the cliffs is from the sea. There's a pier near the park entrance where you can board one of the tour boats that take visitors along the cliffs. Tours take about 35 minutes. Taejongdae has an observation

pavilion and a lighthouse, the latter being a popular place to take in the sunrise. You need to walk about 30 minutes up a hill from the park entrance to the lighthouse. The park is thickly forested. Taejongdae is home to about 120 kinds of trees, including pines, camellia and cinnamon trees. The forests are a magical place to walk around in the early morning, when the sunlight breaks through the canopy in rays. An increasingly popular spot, at least in summer, is Taejongsa, a small Buddhist temple hidden within Taejongdae’s forest. The temple is renowned for its many spectacular hydrangeas, which are in bloom from late June to September. It’s a lovely place, especially when the rain

and fog add an extra level of mystery. The temple also possesses supposed relics from the Buddha, gifted to Korea by the Sri Lankan government in 1983. Taejongdae takes its name from Taejong Muyeol, who ruled the kingdom of Silla in the seventh century. The king, whose reign oversaw the unification of Korea, was captivated by the beauty of Taejongdae and visited often. In the days of Joseon (1392-1910), local magistrates used to hold rites to pray for rain at Taejongdae whenever the country suffered from drought. In fact, the rains that fall on the 10th day of the fifth lunar month are called Taejong Rain.

WHERE TO STAY Busan is blessed with plenty of accommodation options. In Yeongdo, this writer recommends the Hotel Bridge (T. 051-415-100), a pleasant and reasonably priced motel with views of the waterfront, including Yeongdo Bridge.

WHAT TO EAT Being Korea’s largest port, Busan is renowned for its seafood, naturally enough. High-quality, reasonably priced raw fish can be had aplenty at Jagalchi Market. In Yeongdo, pop by one of the food stands near the waterfront at the end of Yeongdo Bridge. Kkangtong Market, a night market in downtown Busan, is also a popular place to eat.

Igidae, Oryukdo, Gijang and more

Igidae and Oryukdo are worthwhile spots off the beaten track, too. Igidae and Oryukdo are on the southeastern tip of Busan’s mainland. The coastal walk between them constitutes an especially scenic stretch of the so-called Seagull Trail, or Galmaetgil, a larger network of walking paths along Busan’s southeastern coast, including popular summer destinations Haeundae Beach and Gwangalli Beach. Igidae is located near the southern

GETTING THERE KTX trains to Busan depart from Seoul Station (travel time: just under three hours)

Busan

end of the Gwangan Bridge, a scenic suspension bridge that is one of Busan’s most recognized landmarks. Igidae offers beautiful sunrises, but even more, it yields beautiful views of the bridge and, just beyond, the futuristic cityscape of Haeundae’s Marine City, a complex designed by De Stefano & Partners, Daniel Libeskind and others. From Igidae, it’s a scenic - if a bit rugged - walk along cliffs, wooden staircases and pedestrian bridges to Oryukdo. Oryukdo means “Five Six Islands,” and true to its name, the chain consists of five or six rocky islets, depending on the tide. The dramatic rock formation is one of Busan’s most iconic images. To allow visitors an even better view of the islets, and to get the adrenaline flowing, an observation deck with a glass floor has been built into a bluff overlooking the chain. Further up the coast is the district of Gijang, by far Busan’s most rural region. Gijang consists largely of small fishing villages and empty fields, with stretches of beautifully rugged coastline, most of which has been included in the Galmaetgil Trail. Rocky points such as Sarangdae and Orangdae are popular with sunrise photographers, but the most popular destination in Gijang is Haedong Yonggungsa, a Buddhist temple on a rocky spot overlooking the sea. The temple, perched above the crashing waves, makes for a breathtaking photo. Many visit the temple on New Year’s Day to watch the sun rise over the ocean.

Gijang

Igidae and Oryukdo Yeongdo

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People 1

A Walk on the Dark Side Jeong You Jeong discusses her new thriller, ‘Beautiful Demon’ _ Written by Young H. K. Pae Photographed by RAUM Studio

KOREA _ August _ 26

Thrillers are not especially popular in Korea, and Jeong is a former nurse with no formal background in literature or writing, yet she consistently makes the bestseller list every time she releases a new book.

Propelled to international fame on the strength of complex, disturbing tales

Jeong You Jeong has been called “Korea’s Stephen King.” A huge fan of King’s thrillers, Jeong told KOREA in a recent interview that she considered the U.S. author a sort of mentor, a person who has taught her the craft of writing through his work. “Definitely my main literary mentor is Stephen King,” she says. “My favorite work by him is ‘The Body’ in the book of four short stories titled ‘Different Seasons.’ This is a magnificent story about teenagers growing up, and it was my first encounter with Stephen King.” Thrillers aren’t especially popular in Korea, and Jeong is a former nurse with no formal background in literature or writing, yet she consistently makes the best-seller list every time she releases a new book. She is self-taught, she says, having thoroughly studied the work of Raymond Chandler and Charles Dickens in addition to that of King. “The structure and the suspense of his stories are certainly genuine,” she says of King. “The plot of his stories and the human mind meet and cause a chemical reaction that creates outrageous suspense.”

Jeong’s sketch of the city where “Beautiful Demon” takes place

Jeong’s past works include “Seven Years of Darkness,” published in 2011, and “28” two years later. The powerful “28,” about a city beset by a strange new disease, is billed as “a thrilling, multilayered tale of undying loyalty and unlikely kinship during uncertain times.” However, it was “Seven Years of Darkness” that really propelled Jeong to stardom around the world. Overseas publication rights have been sold in France, China, Taiwan, Thailand and Vietnam, in addition to Germany, where it is now a massive hit. The German publication Die Zeit included “Seven Years of Darkness” among the 10 bestselling crime novels of 2015 - a rare feat, according to Jeong’s domestic agent, Lee Gu-yong of KL Management. Lee says it is unusual for major European media to take such a strong interest in a novel by a Korean writer. He predicts that Jeong’s success will generate greater interest in Korean literature around the world, particularly in mysteries, crime novels and thrillers. The novel depicts a young man who lives with the stigma of being a murderer’s son, never knowing why his father committed such a horrific crime. While working as a security guard, the father opened the floodgates of a dam and destroyed a village. The answer to the mystery involves Jeong’s villain, a violent man named Oh Yeong-je. Jeong explains how she was inspired to create the character of Yeong-je and why he is a pivotal part of the story. “I needed a character who was confrontational and drove the protagonist crazy,” she says. “A novel needs to power itself, to lead. The writer can’t lead the plot.” Her latest work, “Beautiful Demon,” titled “The Origin of Species” in Korean, was released in May and centers on the internal processes of Han Yu-jin,

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a seemingly ordinary young man who turns out to be a predator and a psychopath. Jeong, who relentlessly focuses on evil in all her novels, continues to reflect on the nasty side of human nature in “Beautiful Demon.” Critics have called the story thoughtprovoking and socially relevant in light of recent high-profile crime cases. Yet in our interview in a coffee shop near Hapjeong Station, Jeong has a bright smile. Unlike the hardened thriller writer one might imagine, she is bright and cheerful. Nevertheless, Jeong says she had a “dark youth,” having spent her 20s taking care of three younger siblings after their mother’s death from cancer.

The ‘beast that can’t be tamed’

“When a human needs to confront the violence of destiny, the effort in choosing between the choices that are offered and trying to overcome them can result in them sinking into the abyss.”

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“I wanted to be a writer,” she says, “But I couldn't fulfill my dream because of my situation, and my anger began to pile up.” Life had made her a pessimist, she confesses. Later, she had experiences as a nurse that forced her to confront her fears. “When I worked at a hospital for over five years, I worked in neurosurgery and in an intensive care unit,” she says. “I was confronted with death and saw dying patients. Most of the neurosurgery patients had hurt their heads or needed brain surgery. I observed death numerous times over those years.” Those encounters with death terrified her, she says, and her fear of death is still very strong. However, she goes on to qualify her statement. “Death itself doesn’t scare me at all, but death means that I am going to be disconnected from the world. Human emotions such as desire, jealousy and envy, which can cause problems in our lives - I call these kinds of emotions ‘the beast that can’t be tamed.’ When such a wild, evil emotion is ignited but hidden deeply inside a human mind, it jumps out from the shadows and into the light.” Jeong connects these dark emotions

(Top) German edition of “Seven Years of Darkness” (Bottom) “Beautiful Demon”

it, readers are saying that I am the writer who wrote ‘the evil trilogy,’ but I do not dig into evil. I am trying to talk about human nature, and when one has to confront a violent destiny, then there is a story of overcoming it or sinking into it.”

What lies ahead: a natural disaster thriller

“Beautiful Demon” will also be published in English. Jeong already has a rough idea of her next book, which she says will be a “natural disaster thriller.” Like all good writing, it will deal with universal themes and emotions. “To transcend time and space, literature should be original,” Jeong says. “Even though it may be set in an exotic place, it should include universal emotions, behaviors or circumstances. Thus, even though the story is based on the writer’s cultural and physical space and background, if it has a universal and original story, it will get broad attention wherever it is read. So the purpose of the writing should be to write an interesting story rather than to be popular.”

“To transcend time and space, literature must be formed originally. Even though it may be set in an exotic place, it should include universal emotion, behaviors or circumstances.”

to violence, which is what drives her novels, and, undoubtedly, why they resonate with so many readers. “As the tornado of destiny runs into my life and shakes everything from the top to the bottom, I call it the violence of destiny. When a human needs to confront this, the effort in choosing between the choices that are offered and trying to overcome them can result in them sinking into the abyss. Then, instead of resulting in good or altruism, an evil side develops, like a chemical reaction, and its going to make cracks in people’s lives.” “Beautiful Demon” may be seen as a more intimate look at evil than Jeong has offered in the past. “‘Seven Years of Darkness’ and ‘28’ were written from the third-person point of view, but I have felt limited when I had to describe villains from the thirdperson perspective,” she says. “That’s why I wrote ‘Beautiful Demon’ from the first-person point of view. This novel is not a story about a psychopath, but it is his own defense presented to the world. Human nature is more attracted to evil than to good. Come to think of

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People 2

“Arirang” is one of Korea’s single most recognizable cultural symbols. Although every region in Korea has its own variation, the plaintive folk song has a status and meaning equal to that of the official national anthem in the hearts of many people. Moon Hyun-woo truly holds its beautiful sounds to heart, and has taken “Arirang” all around the world in an effort to raise international awareness and create new connections between people around the globe, culminating in the creation of a private academy, the Arirang School. The idea for the school first emerged from controversy, when China included “Arirang” on a list of its cultural traditions back in 2011, as practiced by the Korean ethnic minority in northeast China The Korean version of the song was recognized by UNESCO the following year. The events inspired Moon, still not 30 at the time, to get involved. Together with performers and artists, he brought Korean traditional cultural performances to major landmarks around the globe. On his return home, he created a school focused on bringing Korea’s arts to ordinary people.

A man with a plan

The Allure of ‘Arirang’ Arirang School founder Moon Hyun-woo brings a national song to the world _ Written by Jennifer Flinn Photographed by RAUM Studio

KOREA _ August _ 30

“I’m a Korean cultural planner,” says Moon, explaining his unique niche. He’s gone around the world promoting Korean cultural traditions, and now he brings them to both local and foreign visitors through his Arirang School. “I started with the idea for the Arirang School after the controversy over China’s designation of the song as part of its cultural heritage really blew up in 2012. I thought we ought to do something to protect our heritage, so I formed this organization to go around the world and give street performances, with the assistance of cultural groups and embassies.” The project was warmly received.

“I thought we ought to do something to protect our heritage, so I formed this organization to go around the world, giving street performances with the assistance of cultural groups and embassies” © Junyoung Park in Crepas factory

Together with traditional performance artists, Moon would stage concerts, demonstrations and other artistic performances at famous spots throughout Europe, Asia and the Americas. Wherever they went, they drew in curious onlookers, who turned into enthusiastic audience members. “People were really interested in Korea,” he says. “If we wore traditional clothes, people would follow us, taking pictures.” The projects were diverse, and sought to bond with the local traditions and local people wherever they went. “The projects were collaborative. Instead of just writing someone’s name in Hangeul calligraphy on Korean mulberry paper, we’d do it on papyrus.” In Scotland, for instance, they played janggu alongside bagpipes. In one event, they played “Arirang” while people wrote about what was in their hearts using brushes and ink. Some people even cried. He says, “That’s how I came to understand that Arirang wasn’t just a song for Koreans, but something that could touch people’s hearts and help them heal.” As the trip progressed, though, Moon’s thoughts turned toward creating a sustainable future for the promotion of Korea and incorporated a key demographic: ordinary Koreans back home. “Together with the performers, we thought we shouldn’t just travel and tell non-Koreans about Korea, but also spread the word in Korea. So we took the content we developed for the Arirang School overseas program and decided to use them here. We formed a company and started offering classes.”

Back to school

Starting the school was a real challenge for Moon. Although his interest was strong, he didn’t have the background one would expect for the head of an independent academy devoted to Korean traditional music, performances and arts. Drawing on his overseas experiences,

Moon set to work. “We formed a company and started offering classes back in 2013. At first, there was some conflict because I didn’t know much about performance, since my background is in tourism. We didn’t have a full slate of classes, and I didn’t know anything. However, I learned a lot as we moved forward, and it’s actually been a real benefit to learn about the job as I go.” “At first, we had five or ten people coming, but now we’ve got a 150 to 200 people. We’ve got lessons in traditional court music, gayageum, haegeum, Pansori. We’re also teaching sanjo and other difficult subjects, but geared for regular people.” “Some people come for a year, others study for six months. Non-Koreans often end up coming to classes because a friend brings them. This time around, we have students from Spain, the U.S., Malaysia, Vietnam and Indonesia. We even have a Pansori student from Japan.”

A social mission for Korean culture

Moon knows that it’s not easy to bring Korean traditions to the masses, whether here in Seoul or around the world at large. Still, he has a vision for traditional music that goes beyond its current boarders. “I want to make traditional music more broad. When you study traditional music, there’s a particular teacher and a particular line of teaching. However, that prevents it from expanding. I want it to be more like taekwondo. NonKoreans usually know kimchi and taekwondo as being representative. However, that’s something that people in taekwondo have worked on, and it’s really cool. But it’s not something people have done in traditional music.” “I have a social mission to bring traditional Korean music to the world, and create a selfsustaining vision of the art that can be fun, enjoyable, and interesting. I want to bring Korean traditions to the whole world.”

KOREA _ August _ 31

Arts & Entertainment

K-Pop Rising KCON brings Korean pop and media from Seoul to the US, France _ Written by Rhiannon Shepherd Photos courtesy of CJ E&M

KCON 2016 NY takes place at New York’s Prudential Center.

If you’d asked a typical French teenager 10 years ago to associate one thing with the word “Korea,” “pop music” would perhaps not have been the answer. “TV soap operas,” “boy bands” and “cosmetics” are unlikely to have been mentioned either. However, times are changing. KCON, a global festival for all things young and Korean, expanded its ever-growing international reach last month to include France, with a concert in Paris on June 2 that attracted more than 12,500 mostly European K-pop fans. KCON was originally launched in 2012 in Irvine, California, to cater to the existing base of non-Korean K-pop followers and to give a further, calculated push to the

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growing global momentum of Hallyu, also called the “Korean Wave.” The event is a powerful collaboration between K-pop website Koreaboo, Los Angeles–based event promoter Powerhouse Live, and magnates of the Korean entertainment industry CJ E&M and Mnet Media. It offers a glitzy, addictive concoction of live pop music, celebrity entertainment and pop culture exhibits.

K-pop in the heart of Europe

The KCON brand has become a blossoming global phenomenon since its modest 10,000-attendee show in 2012. A total of more than 100,000 international

fans attended KCON events in New York, Abu Dhabi, China and Japan in 2015, leading the festival to expand further this year to include the AccorHotels Arena in Paris. The move also coincides with ongoing celebrations to mark the 130th anniversary of the establishment of diplomatic ties between Korea and France. Determined not to disappoint, KCON France included performances by six of the biggest K-pop groups currently in the game: SHINee, f(x), F.T Island, Block B, Bangtan Boys, and the new kids on the block ‒ IOI, the recently formed, 11-member reality girl group and singers of the infinitely catchy “Pick Me.” The evening was hosted by Leeteuk of Super Junior, while Jin Goo of “Descendants of the Sun” fame and fellow actor Han Ji-min also made cameo appearances on stage. “Descendants of the Sun” is a hot topic in the world of K-things. The show made headlines recently when it was revealed that investors in China had funded its production to the tune of more than USD 11 million. Although still far smaller in scale than its stateside counterparts, KCON’s first foray into Europe has been pinned as a resounding success, uniting fans from France, Germany, Belgium, Italy, Spain and the U.K. in their love for all things K. The French daily Le Monde published a large spotlight on Bangtan Boys, also known as BTS, prior to the concert, touting them as one of the most popular hip-hop groups to be coming out of South Korea. Indeed, BTS have sold a staggering 1 million albums internationally since their debut in April 2015, a feat no doubt spurred by multiple appearances at global KCONs and a growing international fan base. KCON’s launch in France, however, reflects more than just an attempt to satiate the appetites of European K-pop enthusiasts. The French government has reiterated a “joint determination to strengthen relations with Korea in all areas” throughout the 130th anniversary celebrations, while the first day of the

commemorations last September saw the Eiffel Tower lit up in the colors of the Korean flag. An estimated 200 Francerelated events are also planned throughout the year in Korea, covering traditional dance, literature, music, art and food.

Big in America, too

Visitors try making Korean food (top) and perform K-pop dances (bottom) at a KCON event.

KCON’s first foray into Europe has been pinned as a resounding success, uniting fans from France, Germany, Belgium, Italy, Spain and the UK in their love for all things K-pop.

In the U.S., the KCON craze is already in full swing. On June 24 and 25, KCON New York saw performances from KoreanAmerican Ailee, BTOB, Dynamic Duo, and BTS, as well as two days of panels, meet-and-greets, shopping, beauty seminars and other Korea-themed content. The largest and longest KCON yet, KCON LA, will take place from July 29 to 31, boasting three full days of celebration, as well as appearances from longtime pop kings SHINee, Block-B and CNBLUE. Ticket prices will range from USD 50 to USD 250, with exclusive platinum tickets selling for as much as USD 800. Despite rocketing popularity, however, outside of the peninsula, Korean pop culture is still far from a mainstream interest. International KCON events offer a rare opportunity for the scattered fan community to come together for a shared experience, with many fan groups organizing their own subevents and renting exhibition booths to sell handmade K-pop memorabilia and personalized souvenirs to fellow attendees. With the success of the first European event suggesting that the demand for such an experience is significant, KCON is expected to blossom into a flagship event for K-pop lovers outside of Asia. The brand opens doors not only for the expansion of the K-pop craze elsewhere on the continent, but for many Korean export ventures looking to utilize Hallyu’s growing momentum as a doorway to international business. One thing is for certain. The Korean Wave, propelled in part by the explosion of brands such as KCON, isn’t receding any time soon.

A KCON visitor tries on some Korean make-up.

KOREA _ August _ 33

Korea & I

Rediscovering Spelunking in Korea Romanian ambassador photographs Korea’s caves _ Written by Cälin Fabian, Ambassador of Romania to the Republic of Korea Illustrated by Kim Yoon-myung

For many years, caves have played a special role in my life. As a teenager, I joined a cave exploration club. That is what sparked my lifelong interest and passion. Thanks to cave exploration, I became curious about geology. I even became a geology professor for many years before changing professions and entering Romania’s foreign service. I learned a great deal from my fellow spelunkers about cave photography. Thanks to those early days learning how to make do with relatively crude gear, I had to develop my photography skills. To this very day, I remain passionate about photographing everything around me. So, when my old friends from my teenage years came from Romania to visit my wife and me in May 2015, it was obvious we must visit Gosu Cave. In spite of the lack of information available in English at that time, we were nonetheless able to find our way to the town of Danyang in Chungcheongbuk-do. Ideally, we wished to explore the caves in our preferred spelunker-photographer style, but that was not possible given the number of cave visitors. Nonetheless, we were very impressed by our 90-minute visit. After a very helpful orientation on the geology and history of the cave, we were on our way. We appreciated that the guide service gave us the option either to visit the caves unattended or as part of a guided tour. We chose the first option so we could take our time, photographing the beautiful natural wonders.

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Perfect for beginners

Having visited many caves around the world, I consider Gosu Cave to be mid-rank in terms of aesthetics. However, I must say, for first-time cave explorers it is excellent. There are limestone stalagmites and stalactites, dry and wet caverns, clay floors, ponds, and a bit of everything that one could hope to find underground. One can even experience the unique sound of water underground. Unfortunately, there is no opportunity to experience complete darkness during a cave tour. We were, however, very impressed at the cleverness of the artificial lighting. Lighting a cave for visitors is a must, but too often it is done poorly. I have seen caves where the lighting is too harsh and contrasty, whereas in Gosu it is soft and expertly done. Equally important, the lighting engineers avoided the use of tacky colored lighting. Beyond aesthetics, colored light allows algae to grow and destructively eat into the limestone. At Gosu, only white light is used. While white light, too, may promote some algae growth, we could not see any algae. All of the surfaces looked clean and undisturbed. With so many tourists, real harm to the caves and injury to the visitors are easily imaginable. However, we found the walkways largely restricted to wooden paths and steel stairs, protecting both the humans and the caves. We all noticed that the caves were remarkably clean and free of litter. As a cave photographer, I was somewhat inconvenienced since I could not use my tripod. There were too many visitors, and setting up a tripod would have created a safety hazard. However because of the wonderful lighting with cleverly disguised electricity cables, we walked away with some excellent pictures, largely taken with our cameras handheld. Would I return to Gosu Cave? Absolutely. We all loved the experience. Unfortunately, after more than four wonderful years in Korea, I have been recalled to Romania. My wife, Mihaela, and I will reluctantly depart this coming August, but we look forward to visiting Korea in the future. Time permitting, we hope to make a return visit to the excellent Gosu Cave.

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Korea in Brief

Korea Monthly Update © Yonhap News

Korea-Cuba Cultural Ties Bloom newspaper that “The Heirs” star Lee Min-ho “may need more security guards than President Obama” if he visits the Caribbean nation. In fact, a Korean club formed in Havana in April last year and has no fewer than 1,300 members. The love of pop culture has led to heightened interest in other aspects of Korea, as well. In February, a Korean speaking contest in Havana drew 25 contestants. At Havana’s José Martí Cultural Center, some 100 Cuban students attend a Korean language course taught by a lecturer sent by Seoul’s Korea Foundation. The Korean club mentioned above even held a flash mob in Havana to mark Korea’s March 1 holiday, with participants dancing in traditional Hanbok made by an elderly club member based on internet photos.

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The Jecheon International Music and Film Festival will run from Aug. 11 to 16 in the beautiful lakeside town of Jecheon. Launched in 2005, the festival is a unique celebration that brings together cinema, music and nature. Focusing on musicthemed films, the festival also features concerts, a film music academy, street performances and more. One of the highlights will be the World Music Film Today competition, where a five-person international jury judges the world’s latest music-centric films. The two winners will receive the Grand Prize and the Special Jury Prize. Another highlight is “One Summer Night,” a series of musical performances on the festival’s specialized stage next to the scenic Cheongpungho Lake. Musicians who have had a particular impact on Korea’s film and music will receive the Jecheon Film Music Award. This year, the festival will screen 101 films from 25 countries. The opening title is director Kim Dae-hyun’s “Try to Remember,” a documentary about pioneering Korean War–era pop group The Kim Sisters. © JIMFF

Korea and Cuba held their first foreign ministerial talks on June 5. Korean Foreign Minister Yun Byung-se, in Havana to attend a summit of the Association of Caribbean States, met with his Cuban counterpart Bruno Rodriguez at the Palacio de Convenciones for an hour and 15 minutes. The two exchanged views on a broad range of bilateral, regional and global issues. After the meeting, Yun expressed optimism that full normalization of bilateral ties, effectively suspended since 1959, would be the topic of follow-up discussions. As political ties warm, cultural ties are blossoming. In Cuba, Korean media has really taken off. DVD copies of soap operas like “Descendants of the Sun” and “The Heirs” are so popular that a cultural coordinator who visited Cuba earlier this year told Korea’s JoongAng Daily

Jecheon International Music and Film Festival Opens

Nine New Sejong Academies Open The Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism has opened nine new branches of its overseas chain of schools where students can study the Korean language and learn about Korea. Sejong Academies, named for the king who oversaw the invention of Hangeul, will open in Auckland, New

Zealand; Riga, Latvia; Bangi, Malaysia; Yangon, Myanmar; Manama, Bahrain; Krakow, Poland; Adelaide, Australia; and the Vietnamese cities of Qui Nhơn and Thủ Dầu Một. The move brings the number of Sejong Academies worldwide to 144 across 57 countries.

Mini Book Fair Promotes Korean Books The Publication Industry Promotion Agency of Korea has launched a Mini Book Fair to promote Korean books overseas and to boost the competitiveness of the Korean publishing industry. The first of the fairs was held in Nanchang, China on March 25 and 26. Some 23 Korean publishers and 20 Chinese publishers took part. Another show was held in Bangkok on June 8 and 9, and another one is slated for July in Chongqing. The fair will run in Nanjing, China in September and Taipei in November. Interest in Korean literature is growing alongside non-Korean adoration for Korean pop culture. Han Kang’s novel “The Vegetarian,” which won this year’s Man Booker International Prize, has heightened international appreciation for Korean publications, too. © KPIPA

Park In-Bee Qualifies for LPGA Tour Hall of Fame Park In-bee has become the youngest golfer ever to qualify for the LPGA Tour Hall of Fame. The 27-year-old is the second South Korean to be inducted into the hall, joining Pak Se Ri, who was inducted in 2007. A 10-year veteran of the tour, Park has recorded 17 LPGA Tour wins, including seven major championships. Her career highlight thus

far was 2013, when she became the first woman since Babe Zaharias did it in 1950 to win three majors in a single season. Last year, she added to previous victories at the ANA Inspiration, KPMG Women’s PGA Championship and the U.S. Women's Open with a victory at another major tour event, the Women’s British Open, giving her a career grand slam.

Mascots for PyeongChang Olympic, Paralympic Games Selected The Organizing Committee for the 2018 PyeongChang Olympic and Paralympic Winter Games has chosen its mascots for the upcoming games. Soohorang, a white tiger, is the official mascot of the 2018 PyeongChang Winter Olympics. The white tiger has traditionally been regarded as a sacred guardian animal. It is also sometimes used to symbolize the Korean Peninsula itself. Additionally, its

color symbolizes the snow and ice upon which the games will be held. Meanwhile, Bandabi, an Asiatic black bear, is the mascot of the Paralympic Winter Games. The Asiatic black bear is the symbol of Gangwon-do, the province in which the games will be held.

KOREA _ August _ 37

Policy Review

The Next Silicon Valley? Creative Economy Valley could become the next global center of innovation _ Written by Lee Kijun

ÂŠ Gyeonggi Institute of Science and Technology Promotion

Pangyo Techno Valley has become the heart of Koreaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s IT industry.

KOREA _ August _ 38

A ‘Korean Silicon Valley’

While many state-run incubators tend

International cooperation

The Gyeonggi Center for Creative Economy and Innovation is an incubator for startups, including game software, fintech and IoT. © Gonggam Photo

The plan involves creating a high-tech industrial park that will be linked to the Pangyo Techno Valley so that the entire area can be converted into a Korean version of California’s Silicon Valley. The companies will be provided with various forms of government support, including rents far below market price. “Creative economy” refers to President Park Geun-hye’s flagship policy that aims to merge different industrial sectors, especially with information and communications technologies, to generate new business opportunities and to foster the growth of startups. The first step in establishing the Creative Economy Valley was opening the Pangyo Startup Campus in March. This new business incubator is the country’s largest government-backed startup support center, consisting of two eight-story buildings and one five-story structure that can accommodate up to 200 startups. “I hope that the startup campus will become a gateway that will link our startups to global markets,” President Park Geun-hye said at the opening ceremony.

to provide only passive support, such as working space and one-time mentoring services, the Pangyo center will likely offer more practical help thanks to the presence of onsite accelerators. For instance, one of the larger buildings will house the Yozma Campus, run by the prominent Israeli venture capital fund Yozma Group. When its chairman, Yigal Erlich, visited Korea last year, he made it clear that Yozma would do more than just fund young startups. He expressed his intention to cooperate with the Korean government, consulting firms, research institutes and big corporations in Korea and abroad to nurture a favorable ecosystem for startups in Korea. Specialists at the Yozma Campus will help Korean startups launch their services abroad and will connect them to investors. Experts from non-Korean venture capital firms like 360IP, Fenox and Brightstar Partners will be accessible from the Yozma Campus, as well as those from investment consulting firm Clearbrook, accounting firm Samil PricewaterhouseCoopers. Market exploration assistance firm Panda Korea and management consulting firm Global Excellence will also both offer their services.

Treasure trove of innovation

Kwak Jae-won, president of the Gyeonggi Institute of Science and Technology Promotion (GSTEP), said the Pangyo Techno Valley was “like a treasure trove of innovation coveted by information and communication technology behemoths, such as Samsung Electronics and SK Telecom.” In cooperation with the new campus, the GSTEP will provide active support for companies in emerging industrial sectors, such as cloud computing, big data and the internet of things. “At the new incubation center, startups will work on state-of-the-art

KOREA _ August _ 39

Might a 430,000-square-meter patch of land just outside Seoul become the world's next Silicon Valley? The government certainly hopes so. Work has already started on the “Creative Economy Valley,” a new community for startups and high-tech firms that is being built in Seongnam, Gyeonggi-do, next to Pangyo Techno Valley, Korea’s leading tech cluster. The government plans to invest KRW 1.5 trillion to establish this “second Pangyo Techno Valley,” with the goal of drawing 1,600 additional companies and providing more than 100,000 jobs.

President Park Geun-hye attends the opening of the Pangyo Startup Campus.

Bringing non-Korean startups to Korea

KOREA _ August _ 40

Opening of the Pangyo Startup Campus

The Korean government is also planning to attract global startups to the cluster. In May 2016, it launched the K-Startup Grand Challenge, hosting 40 international startups and providing an intensive three-month accelerator program sponsored by the Ministry of Science, Information and Communications Technology, and Future Planning. It was the first such attempt to bring non-Korean startups to Korea. Erik Cornelius, a spokesman for the initiative, said in an interview that the

program’s aim was to foster the startup ecosystem in Korea, which until now has been dominated by big companies such as Samsung and LG. “The government and corporations realized that the economy is based too heavily on big conglomerates,” Cornelius said, noting that there had been significant movement on the issue “since President Park Geun-hye came into power in 2013, pumping billions into domestic startups under her Creative Economy initiative.” The government has laid out a plan to offer USD 4,100 a month in living expenses for up to three team members each per startup that comes and works out of the new campus in the Pangyo Techno Valley. Local accelerators will work with the government and help facilitate the initiative. In addition, a number of big companies have promised mentors and other resources.

technologies including virtual and augmented reality,” Kwak said. “The GSTEP will also spare no effort to bring those Korean venture firms to global markets by working with startup accelerators SparkLabs, ActnerLab, FuturePlay and Venture Port.”

Pangyo Startup Campus is the country’s largest governmentbacked startup support center, capable of accommodating up to 200 startups.

Kakao chairman Kim Bum-soo presents the vision of the Pangyo Startup Campus.

Number of Pangyo-Based Companies and Proportion of High-Tech Companies

Corporate support

Source: Gyeonggi Institute of Science and Technology Promotion Information technology Biotechnology Arts- and entertainment-related technology Nanotechnology

NT 1%

Other

CT 4% BT

46% Other

NT 2%

BT 10%

BT 9%

Other

16%

17%

16%

CT 4%

NT 1%

Other

6% BT

12%

17%

34% IT

46%

56%

64%

77%

870

1,002

1,121

2011

2014

2015

2016

Among the 1,121 Pangyo-based companies surveyed, 1,052, or 94 percent, are high-tech firms in the fields of IT, biotech, arts- and entertainment-related tech and nanotech. IT firms are increasing at a much faster rate compared to other industries, exhibiting a 31 percent increase in market share from 2011.

Revenue for Tech Firms in Pangyo Techno Valley Source: Gyeonggi Institute of Science and Technology Promotion Unit: KRW

Increase over past 2 years

16.27 trillion 30.14%

54.00 trillion 2014

70.27 trillion

Large companies are major supporters of the cluster’s startups. More than 100 chief technology officers from companies based in the Pangyo Techno Valley were invited to the latest monthly forum held at Samsung’s newly opened R&D center in Umyeon-dong in southern Seoul. At the event, Samsung promised to allow the ventures and startups to use facilities on the first and second floors of one of the center’s buildings. The CTOs’ meeting was facilitated by GSTEP, which is fully funded by the Gyeonggi-do government, as a means to grow local startups and vitalize the science going on in Pangyo Techno Valley. Along with the CTOs of Samsung and SKT, their counterparts from conglomerates such as Hyundai Motor participated in the event and rubbed shoulders with executives from the Pangyo-based companies. The GSTEP president and top officials at government-run institutes, including the graduate school of convergence science and technology at Seoul National University, launched the Global CTO Forum late last year to encourage exchange and collaboration between the chief technology officers at Pangyo-based companies. Following the success of the Pangyo Techno Valley, the provincial government plans to build another “Techno Valley” in Ilsan, Goyang City, in the northern part of Gyeonggi-do. On June 29, Gyeonggi-do announced plans for the new tech complex, tentatively called “North Gyeonggi Techno Valley,” to which it hopes to attract some 1,900 tech companies beginning in 2020. “The success story of the Pangyo Techno Valley will be retold at the Ilsan complex,” said Governor Nam Gyeong-pil of Gyeonggi-do at a press conference.

2016

KOREA _ August _ 41

Creative Economy

Powering the Future of Motoring Korean companies take on the electric vehicle battery market _ Written by Colin Marshall

Samsung SDI and LG Chem already control one-third of the worldwide electric vehicle battery market.

Electric cars used to look like nothing more than a hobby, something for devoted environmentalists, unconventional gearheads, and speculative technology enthusiasts alone. Now, within just a short time, electric cars look like the clear future of motoring. Not only can humanity see a world without fossil fuels just down the road ‒ something unimaginable for most people in the 20th century ‒ but companies like the new carmaker Tesla have, to great acclaim, brought electric vehicles to levels of luxury and style they had never known before. While not every driver of the future will have a car as flashy as a Tesla, they’ll certainly have some kind of electric one. It goes without saying that you can’t drive an electric car without electricity, and no electric car can make use of electricity without a battery. For most of the history of private automobiles, the progress of the electric car was held back by one technological limitation above all: battery life. For decades and decades, cars that could only go a relatively short distance before needing some time at the charging station ‒ assuming a charging station, which have only become numerous in the 21st century, stood anywhere nearby ‒ simply couldn’t hope to compete with the internal combustion engines and the gas stations at which to refill their tanks, scattered so conveniently all over the world.

LG Chem shows off a model of a 48-volt micro hybrid car powered by its electric battery technology. KOREA _ August _ 42

The 28th International Electric Vehicle Symposium and Exhibition was held in May 2015 at Kintex in Goyang, Gyeonggi-do. © SK Innovation

All that has changed, thanks in part to Korean electric vehicle battery research and development. Worldwide demand for electric vehicles grew by 87 percent last year, according to a study by SNE Research. The manufacturers charged, as it were, with making the batteries to power the cars that will fill that demand include LG Chem, which works with carmakers Chevrolet, General Motors, Renault, Volkswagen, Audi, Volvo and Hyundai; Samsung SDI, which supplies batteries to BMW; and SK Innovation, whose customers include Kia and Daimler AG, with which it recently made a deal to supply battery cells for its Mercedes-Benz brand electric vehicles. None of them yet make batteries for Tesla, which currently works with the electronics corporation Panasonic. Japan currently holds 60 percent of the global market for electric vehicle batteries, with Korea coming in second at 30 percent, far ahead of China’s eight percent. Industry watchers now have plenty of reason to believe Korea could continue to gain on Japan and perhaps even take the No. 1 spot, just as it has done with other technologies such as smartphones and flat screens. The clearest reason has to do with sheer investment. Samsung SDI, which together with LG Chem already controls one-third of the worldwide electric vehicle battery market, has planned to put KRW 1 trillion into batteries this year and KRW 3 trillion won by 2020. Both companies have built battery factories in the Chinese cities of Nanjing and Xi’an, and SK Innovation is reportedly considering doing the same. Though a great deal of its manufacturing happens in Korea, the industry has also reached outside Asia and will continue to reach farther. LG Chem already operates a production base in Michigan, cradle of the U.S. automobile industry, and has plans to open a large facility in Poland. Samsung SDI may build a factory in Europe, as well.

A world of drivers, a world market

Researchers examine battery production at SK Innovation’s Seosan factory.

The race has just begun

However many batteries it can manufacture, though, the Korean electric vehicle battery industry will stand or fall on the merits of the technologies themselves, many of which come down to compact size and long life. LG Chem, the country’s industry leader, has the world’s largest battery production capacity, but it also has in development a new type of “pocket battery” that can power a 600-kilometer drive on a single charge. The outside world seems to approve of its prospects. A study late last year of the competitiveness of global electric car battery manufacturers carried out by the market research firm Naviant Research assigned LG Chem the No. 1 rank. No matter how much progress electric cars have made with consumers in recent years, much more innovation

remains to be done. In the words of SK Innovation vice chairman Chung Cheol-gil, “If this is a marathon, the electric car battery business has not even reached the 1-kilometer point.” Right now, no manufacturer, South Korean or otherwise, can afford to slow down on research, development or production, especially now that the development of China has brought about a new and evergrowing demand for vehicles ‒ and, thanks to recently introduced government regulations there, many more electric vehicles than traditional gas-powered ones. Those who still find it improbable that Korea could one day make the majority of those vehicles’ batteries may have forgotten just how improbable electric cars once seemed.

KOREA _ August _ 43

Brand Korea

Korean Crafts a Hit in Paris Shopping websites now offer ‘Excellent Cultural Products,’ too _ Written by Ian Im

KOREA _ August _ 44

©KOCIS

An exhibit at KCON 2016 France introduced some of Korea’s best arts and crafts to one of Europe’s leading cultural centers. Part of a series of events marking 130 years of diplomatic ties between Korea and France, the June 2 show at the Accor Hotels Arena in Paris was an all-encompassing celebration of all things Korean. It drew 12,000 people, including many French fans of Korean pop stars, such as SHINee, Block B, the Bangtan Boys, F.T. Island, f(x) and girl group I.O.I. The evening wasn’t all K-pop, however. At the “K-content booth,” visitors could check out Korean crafts, artisanal foods and other products designated “Excellent Cultural Products” by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism. Altogether, 31 items were on display, including traditional clothing, ceramics and brass tableware. Sophie Pailot, a 21 year-old K-pop fan, told French broadcaster TF1, “I came to KCON because I like K-pop, but it was good that I got to experience not only the music, but various other aspects of Korea.” Traditional Hanbok clothes were

At the “K-content booth,” visitors could check out Korean crafts, artisanal foods and other products designated “Excellent Cultural Products” by the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism.

especially popular with attendees. On display at the “K-content booth” was designer Damyeon’s “K-Dress,” a slightly updated version of traditional wedding attire. Participants could also try on Hanbok or pose for photos with Hanbokclad K-pop stars, such as I.O.I’s Choi Yoo-jung, Kim Chung-ha and Jung Chaeyeon. Popular French-born model and entertainer Fabien acted as emcee at three Hanbok fashion shows. The crowd roared every time a model stepped on stage, and between shows there were lines of people waiting to take selfies with the models. The emcee of the concert, Leeteuk of boy band Super Junior, wore a fusion Hanbok suit from collaborative brand GUIROE. Manon Ilemoine, a 22-year-old attendee, said, “It seems even a man’s full dress can have many uses, such as everyday outerwear.” Major French media such as TF1 and FranceInfo covered the exhibit. An official from the Korean culture ministry said he was surprised to see how much interest it was generating. “We will link products with the growth in the popularity of Korean

©KOCIS

pop culture in East Asia and elsewhere and secure even greater distribution, targeting global markets, so that even more outstanding Korean handicrafts can receive the benefits of cultural marketing,” he said.

Korean Hanbok dress was especially popular. Participants could also try on Hanbok or pose for photos with Hanbok-clad stars.

Meanwhile, K Mall 24, an online shopping site operated by the Korea International Trade Association, now sells “Excellent Cultural Products.” The website, which emphasizes products from small and midsized companies, offers services in English, simplified Chinese and Japanese and allows for a simple, stress-free shopping experience. PayPal, Alipay, and major overseas credit cards are accepted. TradeKorea.com, the Korea International Trade Association’s support website for business-to-business transactions, has also opened a section for online sales of these “Excellent Cultural Products.” The Ministry of Culture, Sports and

Tourism conferred this designation on 35 products this past March, including foodstuffs, Korean clothing and works of art. Another 44 products had been so designated in previous years. Eleven of the products are available at K Mall 24, including red pepper paste, soy sauce, ginseng tea, brass tableware and Hanbok clothing. “Excellent Cultural Products” are marked by a “seal of excellence” shaped like the ribbon on a Hanbok dress. Accordingly, the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism plans to promote them as part of its new “K-Ribbon Selection” brand. The brand will boost recognition of the good and the certification system and could be useful overseas. “While we accelerate the work of designating outstanding products that reveal the essence of Korea as ‘Excellent Cultural Products,’ we hope to boost recognition of those products, which are still relatively unknown both in Korea and overseas, through the K-Ribbon Selection brand,” a ministry official said.

KOREA _ August _ 45

Global Korea

Helping Artists Achieve Their Dreams MOFA, K-Arts ‘Dream Project’ provides training opportunities for overseas arts students _ Written by Robert Koehler Photos courtesy of Ministry of Foreign Affairs

Sri Lankan participants in the “Dream Project” talk with a Korean volunteer.

KOREA _ August _ 46

From Nov. 1 to 16, an eight-person team of Korean volunteers visited the Indonesian Institute of the Arts (ISI) in Yogyakarta, one of the country’s top fine arts schools, to conduct a workshop on improvisational theater and a class on story theater for local students and staff. At the end of the two weeks, the participants put on for local children a performance of story theater, a form of theater where a group of actors, often playing multiple roles, tell or narrate stories in a simple setting. For the ISI students, it was an opportunity to take part in youth theater, a genre with which they had little experience. “It was a rare chance to experience a round theater space,” said fourth-year ISI student Tresia Yashara. “The workshop, held in Korean, Indonesian and English, was a rare opportunity, too. I learned and experienced a lot.” The Indonesian program was just one of several conducted as part of the Dream Project, a cooperative project run by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MOFA) and the Korea National University of Arts (K-Arts) to assist developing nations in advancing their arts sectors. It offers short-term workshops or art camps for young artists in participating countries to help develop their skills and broaden their artistic horizons by providing professional training programs and educational opportunities.

Helping overseas art students reach their potential

Under the program, the Korea National University of Arts dispatches teams of volunteers composed of professors and students to partner institutions in participating countries to provide specialized art programs. Programs usually run for about two weeks. The teams are composed of specialists in a range of genres, including music, video, theater, painting, design, architecture, dance and the traditional arts. Young artists from participating nations, meanwhile, are invited to Korea to take part in a two-week art camp. The program has grown steadily since its launch in 2013. In its first year, 32 volunteers were sent to three nations: India, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka. Nine individuals - three from each nation ‒ came to Korea to attend the art camp. In 2015, however, 57 volunteers were sent to seven countries, the list of which now includes Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia and Mongolia. Eight overseas participants came to Korea. In Mongolia, for instance, the Korean team took part in a workshop at the Mongolian State University of Arts and Culture. They taught students how to use a computer program used in video editing and animation. In India, volunteers gave lessons, performed recitals and held master classes at the Delhi School of Music to give students a rare opportunity to deepen their

Modern art workshop takes place at Sri Lanka’s Colombo School of Arts as part of the Dream Project.

Bangladeshi graphic design students and Korean volunteers pose for a photo at the University of Dhaka.

knowledge of Western classical music. At Dhaka University in Bangladesh, the Korean team took part in community design and branding efforts.

Artistic cooperation

This year, 60 volunteers will be dispatched to seven nations: India, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Laos, Cambodia, Indonesia and Mongolia. The response from local participants has been overwhelmingly positive. In Mongolia, students demonstrated a great deal of enthusiasm, saying they hoped to continue learning even after the conclusion of the program. On the final day of the program, the students demonstrated what they had learned by playing their videos before an audience of students, university officials and Korean diplomats. In Sri Lanka, where Korean instructors taught the formative arts at the University of Visual and Performing Arts, many of the students worked through their breaks and were keen to share opinions on their work. Wahid Nurcahyono, a professor at Indonesia’s ISI, said, “I know it’s not easy to run a workshop all day from the early morning. … I think the class showed good cooperation between students from the Korea National University of Arts and the Indonesian Institute of the Arts in Yogyakarta.”

KOREA _ August _ 47

Flavor

Samgyetang Beat the summer heat the healthy way with ginseng chicken soup _ Written by Eugene Kim

Samgyetang, or ginseng chicken soup, is a summertime specialty. The hearty, nutrient-rich soup consists of a whole young chicken that has been stuffed with sticky rice and garlic and boiled for over an hour in a watery broth to which ginseng root has been added. Salt is usually added to taste. People most often have samgyetang on the sambok, three days in midsummer that traditionally mark the hottest period of the year. In the old days, when Korea was primarily an agricultural society, peasants would use this period to head for cool mountain valleys or beaches to escape the unrelenting heat, which made it all but impossible to work in the fields. They would also eat highly nutritious, proteinrich meals to recover from heat- and work-induced fatigue. Samgyetang’s history goes back to the early 20th century, when wealthy families began adding white ginseng powder to dakbaeksuk, another kind of chicken soup that consists of a whole chicken boiled without seasonings. Later,

KOREA _ August _ 48

restaurants began selling it, and by the 1950s people recognized it as a separate dish. White ginseng powder was the preferred seasoning in the beginning, but after the 1960s, when refrigerators became common, cooks began to switch over to dried ginseng root. It was at this time that samgyetang as we know it today came into being, and also the time when it became the national sambok meal of choice. Ideally, the ginseng used in the soup should be six years old, when the root’s efficacy as an herbal medicine peaks. Chefs sometimes add extra delicacies such as abalone, green beans or slices from the branches of the lacquer or castor oil trees. Being one of Korea’s milder dishes, samgyetang tends to be highly popular with non-Korean visitors. Seoul’s most popular samgyetang restaurants are often full of tourists from China and Japan. The dish’s international fans include Chinese film director Zhang Yimou and Japanese novelist Murakami Ryu, who have lauded it as Korea’s best dish.

__ How to make samgyetang: Thoroughly rinse the glutinous rice and mung beans and leave the mixture to soak. After cleaning the chicken and removing all unnecessary fat, stuff it with milkvetch root, ginseng, jujube fruit, garlic, and rinsed rice and mung beans. Completely submerge the chicken in a pot of water and bring to a boil. Once it starts boiling, turn down the heat and let it cook for about 40 minutes to an hour. Add diced green onions and serve with salt to taste.

Korean Keyword

Aegyo _ Written by Lim Jeong-yeo Illustrated by Kim Yoon-myung

A strategy of adorable cuteness

애교 | Aegyo

Aegyo is a Korean word that can be written in traditional Chinese characters. Its syllables literally translate to “love” and “cute.” Women are often the more apt players at this game, but starting with celebrities, more men are learning to express better aegyo, too. Think dragged-out ends of sentences, pouting, baby talk and animated hand gestures that are meant to hike up a person’s “cuteness.” Remember the scene in Disney’s animated movie “Shrek” where Puss in Boots goes doe-eyed with droopy whiskers holding up his paws to his chin? Koreans would call that an accurate display of aegyo at work. Aegyo is largely flirtatious, but can also be applied in various situations to loosen up a rigid atmosphere. For example, when caught doing something wrong in the eyes of parents, children can use aegyo to ease their way out of the situation. Or, when asking someone for a favor, one could apply a judicious amount of aegyo to lighten the request. Some people are born with the talent. The tone of the voice, the batting of the eyelashes or the winks, the friendly laughs and light nudges – all of that comes to them naturally. These people are described as having a lot of aegyo, which, in Korean, is aegyo manta. Others, on the other hand, either acquire it later in life or simply ignore it. Those who are stoic and devoid of aegyo are described as aegyo eopda. While some Korean men and women think aegyo is a cute and affable trait, others think it is childish and emotional. Aegyo is used only in informal settings between close people and never in a professional environment. KOREA _ August _ 50

Korean Art Through Coloring

Dokkaebi pattern of Gwanchoksa Temple

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Dokkaebi pattern of Gwanchoksa Temple

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