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Issue 5 2015/2016 AUD 10.00 NZD 10.00
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IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE
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100% Pure Australian Bee Pollen and Raw Honey 纯源于本
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CONTENTS
184 Otherworld
30 Yin & Yang
66 Duality – The Tao of Renewal
100 East of Eden
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KONCIERGE
CONTENTS
16 Editor’s Letter
78 Denim Nation
144 Strateas Carlucci x Sam
18 Behind the Scenes Yin & Yang
88 Midnight Glamour
STAY 158 I Hear You Calling
SHOP 166 Around the Rocks
30 Yin & Yang
174 Chris Irving Chef du jour
36 Temple St. Clair Fantasy Maker
PLAY 46 Opulence 56 Colour Chameleon 62 Beauty Editor’s Hot Picks Going Global
184 Otherworld 100 East of Eden 114 High Seas
198 Mark Rippon The Canvas of Life 202 张大华 人生是一幅画
66 Duality The Tao of Renewal
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126 In the Mood for Love
KONCIERGE
208 Object of desire
166 Around the Rocks
CONTENTS
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CONTENTS
126 In the Mood for Love
114 High Seas
46 Opulence
144 Strateas Carlucci x Sam
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KONCIERGE
Editor’s Letter
DRIFTING INTO LOVE
There is one thread that links all of us together. It is responsible for the emotions of a single human heart and it is also the greatest paradox imaginable. We know it transcends time and space, and exists in the smallest part of physics and the largest part of the universe, in a place that almost everyone has searched for, yet it remains invisible. It is eternal and it has no agenda. It is LOVE. With this universal message powering KONCIERGE, we pay homage to ‘In The Mood For Love’, an icon of Chinese cinematographic history directed by the legendary Wang Ka-wai. Upon revisiting the film, I realise that it has been an inspiration to me for more than 15 years and has fundamentally changed the way I view the relationship between art and commerce. Regardless of whether it is the creation of a film or a magazine, I have grown to understand how important it is to not follow but to be true to our own individual artistic desires. In Fantasy Maker (page 36), a chance encounter with Temple St. Clair in New York led us to discover her love for nature, history and the steps she took on her path to becoming a jeweller. Interestingly, on the day of my meeting with Temple, I was meant to interview
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a Chinese American fashion designer instead, but as that meeting was cancelled this other opportunity simultaneously emerged. Was it fate or simply just another event? I guess it all depends on perception and an individual’s personal belief. In as long as three decades of my life and as short as the few months it took to craft this issue of KONCIERGE, it has become really clear to me that there are no accidents, only synchronicity which is very much nature’s intelligence guiding us. As I write this letter, a new song by Madonna floats through the air and I hear the lyrics and the certainty in her voice “All we’ve got left is love, might as well start with us, singing a new song, something to build on...” It really is true. Love is in the air! 杨超显
Chao Xian Yang Editor in Chief
KONCIERGE
BOTTEGA VENETA. CHANEL. CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA. ESCADA. FURLA. GUCCI. HARROLDS. HUGO BOSS. MICHAEL KORS. MIU MIU. M U L B E R RY. P R A DA . SA LVATO R E F E R R AGA M O . ST UA RT W E I T Z M A N . TO D ’ S . V E R SAC E .
SYDNEY
Behind The Scenes Cover Shoot By Sass Glaesner
Inspired by the iconic cinematography and on screen love story of ‘In The Mood For Love, directed by legendary Film Director Wong Kar Wai, we explore the sense of TOTALITY of LOVE in this issue using a visual language that is reminiscent of this eternal mystery. The dual-cover collector’s edition is based on Taoism’s principle of Yin and Yang, an ancient Chinese cultural philosophy that is believed to be one of the principle foundations of the entire universe. Yin and Yang is also known as shadow and light, emerging from the observation that in nature a balance between two opposing forces exists in everything and everyone. These forces cannot be defined as good or bad, but rather interdependent, transforming and interchangeable. For some months we had been looking for the right opportunity to invite New York based Australian model Shanina Shaik to shoot a KONCIERGE cover. As we began to explore this issue’s themes we realised that Shanina, the daughter of Lithuanian-Australian and Pakistani-Saudi Arabian parents, was the perfect person to best reflect our underlying messages of love, of light and shade and opposing forces to create unity and oneness. These themes are perfectly reflected in the cultural contrasts of Shanina’s background. After the decision was made the wheels were hastily set in motion. Acclaimed photographer and KONCIERGE founding creative partner, Michele Aboud happened to be in the middle of relocating her entire life to New York across the exact dates of our planned shoot. If there is one thing we have learned, it is that nothing in this world can or will be forced so after allowing her to sit with her options for a moment, Michele came back to us with a resounding yes and was good to go despite the fact that the shoot date was scheduled for the very day before her departure to the Big Apple. There it was again, our cover star was arriving from New York the day before our shoot and our star photographer was departing the day after, yin yang, push pull, shadow and light.
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There is a natural, unspoken synergy between a team who has worked together for years. Long time family member and KONCIERGE Fashion Director Michael Azzollini arrived on set on the morning of the shoot, full of irrepressible energy and mischievous charm with pooch ‘Frankie the Griffon’ tucked under one arm and Fashion Editor Marianne Malafosse linked through the other. Shanina arrived shortly after, breathtakingly beautiful and completely relaxed sans makeup. After a round of introductions and small talk our cover star was swiftly transferred into the capable hands of award winning makeup artist Victoria Baron and creative hair styling genius, Sarah Laidlaw for a complete transformation. The focused attention on set was only interrupted mid morning when Sarah dashed home to collect some extra hairpieces and wigs after a surge of inspiration. The energy shift presented Michael with the perfect opportunity to whip out his designer roller skates and complete a few stylish circuits of the studio, generating hilarity amongst the team and much excitable barking from Frankie the Griffon. What we didn’t realise at the time was that after dashing home, Sarah had found herself in the sticky situation of having to bridge a gulf of wet concrete between her and the front door thanks to a newly poured driveway. As with every challenge though, it was duly navigated and she arrived back on set, hairpiece in hand and infectious humour intact. People flowed in and out of the studio spaces throughout the day as Michele moved in constant flux to a catchy disco soundtrack, occasionally reigniting the energy in the room with her signature dance moves. As I watched on in awe, the age-old riddle, “how many people does it take to change a light bulb?” sprang to mind. As the music pumped I counted; the lighting crew, a behind the scenes film crew, digital technicians, catering, stylists, hair and makeup artist, assistants, editors, brand representatives, security, model and photographer. All up 22 people and one dog coming together from interstate and across the globe for ten hours of focused creativity and countless hours of post-production is what it took to bring to life our ‘Shadow and Light’ dual cover story. We had fun and we hope you feel the collective love.
KONCIERGE
KONCIERGE ISSUE 5 In The Mood For Love Chao Xian Yang – Editor in Chief chaoxian@titchmo.com Craig Anthony – CEO/Publisher craig@titchmo.com Susan Hodgson - Partner/ Cultural Ambassador Sass Glaesner – Deputy Editor sass@titchmo.com ART DEPARTMENT Jamie Mitchell – Art Director jamie@m35.com.au www.m35.com.au CHINESE EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT Chinese Content Copywriter – Zhang Hong FASHION and BEAUTY DEPARTMENT Michael Azzollini – Fashion Director Marianne Malafosse – Fashion Editor Christabel Draffin – Beauty Editor Writers Zhang Hong, Annette Dasey, Christabel Draffin, Sass Glaesner Photographers Jez Smith, Michele Aboud, Juli Balla, Christian Blanchard, Geoff Boccalatte, Tane Coffin, Adam Flipp, Cameron Grayson, Jenni Hare, James Mills, David Reiss Kat Dawes – Thought Ambassador Special thanks to all our industry supporters, friends and family for your support Thank You Charli Burrowes, Lucas Yu, Steven Tulloch, Mark Rippon, Matthew Pollock, DLM, Chadwick, Capture Lab,The Front Studios, Pier One Sydney Harbour, IMG, Chadwick, Priscillas, Premier Models, Chic, Frank Agency......... Special Thanks Sarah Laidlaw, Richard Fang, Michelle Flekser, Lucas Yu, Lillian Xu, Chanelle O’Hare, Daniel Havas
KONCIERGE is a Luxury Travel and Lifestule Magazine for discerning Chinese travellers to Australia and Pacific. KONCIERGE (Issn2201 - 4551) is published by TiTchmo Pty Ltd. All material published in KONCIERGE is copyright and remains the legal property of TiTchmo Pty Ltd. KONCIERGE material may not be reproduced in any form without the written consent of TiTchmo Pty Ltd. ABN:69-927-062. P.O.Box 3409, Robina Town Centre, Queensland, 4230, Australia.
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KONCIERGE
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Shop 购物
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KONCIERGE
BEAUTY NOTES – Skin prepared with HYDRA BEAUTY products range. Skin: VITA LUMIERE FLUIDE / Eyes: ILLUSION D OMBRE IN MIRIFIQUE, LES 4 OMBRES TISSE RIVIERA, LÈVRES SCINTILLANTES in Rose Tendre worn on top of eyeshadow / Lips: ROUGE COCO in Adrienne matted down with POUDRE UNIVERSELLE COMPACTE / Nails: LE VERNIS LES BEIGES in Beige Pur / Body: BODY EXCELLENCE FIRMING and REJUVENATING CREAM
FINE JEWELLERY – From left to right. Ultra large ring in 18K white gold and black ceramic - $2,200 CHANEL Fine Jewellery / Ultra medium ring in 18K white gold black ceramic with diamonds - $3,300 CHANEL Fine Jewellery / Ultra medium ring in 18K white gold black ceramic with diamond - $3,400 CHANEL Fine Jewellery / Ultra medium ring in 18K white gold black ceramic with diamonds - $5,400 CHANEL Fine Jewellery
Yin
Yang
Yin & & Yang
Shot exclusively for KONCIERGE by Michele Aboud @micheleaboud MODEL Shanina Shaik @imgmodelsaustralia ART DIRECTOR Sylvia Weimer FASHION DIRECTOR Michael Azzollini @azzo01 FASHION EDITOR Marianne Malafosse @mariannemalafosse HAIR Sarah Laidlaw @sarahlaidlaw LOCATION The Front Studio @thefrontstudios Victoria Baron Make-up Artist for CHANEL All Fine Jewellery and Beauty by CHANEL
YIN AND YANG
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KONCIERGE
BEAUTY NOTES – Skin prepared with HYDRA BEAUTY products range / Face: LE BLANC DE CHANEL MULTI-USE ILLUMINATING BASE / Lips: ROUGE COCO in Antoinette, LE CRAYON LÈVRES PRECISION LIP DEFINER in Rouge FINE JEWELLERY – Camélia Galbé ring in white ceramic and white gold with diamond - $7,390 CHANEL Fine Jewellery
YIN AND YANG
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KONCIERGE
BEAUTY NOTES – Skin prepared with HYDRA BEAUTY products range / Face: LE BLANC DE CHANEL MULTI-USE ILLUMINATING BASE / Eyes: ILLUSION D’OMBRE in Fantasme, Mascara: INIMITABLE VOLUME in Noir Black / Lips: ROUGE COCO in Antoinette, LE CRAYON LÈVRES PRECISION LIP DEFINER in Rouge FINE JEWELLERY – Fil de Camélia earrings in white gold with diamonds - $16,150 CHANEL Fine Jewellery
YIN AND YANG
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by Annette Dasey
& Zhang Hong
Temple St. Clair Fantasy Maker 36
KONCIERGE
FANTASY MAKER
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TEMPLE’S JEWELLERY IS A TESTAMENT TO HER PASSION FOR NATURE, HISTORY AND DESIGN. HER LATEST COLLECTION, THE MYTHICAL CREATURES FROM THE GOLDEN MENAGERIE, SHOWCASES HER WHIMSICAL SIDE AT ITS FINEST
New York jeweller Temple St. Clair had an upbringing that dreams are made of. Born into a family of commerce and art and raised in the Southern USA state of Virginia, her sense of adventure was sparked during family trips. She explored the ancient ruins of Mexico and Morocco, went night diving in Honduras with legendary explorer Jean-Michel Cousteau and attended boarding school in Switzerland and university in Florence. Almost thirty years after finding her calling as a jeweller when her mother asked her to commission a Florentine goldsmith to fashion an ancient coin into a necklace, Temple’s intricate designs are worn by the world’s most beautiful women including Nicole Kidman and Julia Roberts. Temple’s jewellery is a testament to her passion for nature, history and design. Her latest collection, the Mythical Creatures from the Golden Menagerie, showcases her whimsical side at its finest. In this Asia Pacific exclusive with Koncierge, Temple – who lives in New York with her business partner husband Paul Engler and their teenage sons Alexander and Archer and German Shepherd Maximus – reveals her inspirations...
What was the evolution of this collection?
The Mythical Creatures from the Golden Menagerie is my latest collection of High Jewellery comprised of nine unique creatures imagined and executed in rare gemstones by the finest Florentine goldsmiths, engravers and chisellers. I sought out a collaboration with a dear friend and renowned artist, Nancy Lorenz. I invited Nancy to apply her art to nine one-of-a-kind boxes to house each unique jewel. We share a love of precious materials and fine artisanship. Her materials include gold and silver leaf, mother of pearl, natural pigments, clay and resin. I shared my sketches, watercolours, and gem choices. She created magical worlds; a gold leaf nest for the Great Horned Owl ring, a cobalt pigmented night sea with inlaid mother of pearl for the Sea Dragon earrings, slithering bits of humble burlap covered in gold leaf for the Garden Serpent necklace.
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纽约珠宝设计师Temple St. Clair的成长经历如梦幻般美好。她生于一个 充满了商业与艺术氛围的家庭,在美国南部的弗吉尼亚州长大,并在瑞 士的寄宿学校和佛罗伦萨的大学完成学业。在家庭旅行中,她的冒险精 神和天分,经常如火花般闪现。她探索过墨西哥和摩洛哥的古老遗迹, 还跟著名探险家Jean-Michel Cousteau一起在洪都拉斯体验过夜间潜 水,这些奠定了她未来事业发展的方向。 30年前,母亲让她委托一位佛罗伦萨的珠宝首饰工匠把一枚古老的金币 嵌入一款项链中,那一刻开启了她的珠宝设计历程。她精致繁复的设计 作品,得到了这个世界上最美的女性们广泛赞誉,其中包括奥斯卡金像 奖最佳女主角奖得主——妮可·基德曼和茱莉亚·罗伯茨。 Temple的珠宝作品就是她对自然、历史和设计的热爱的明证。在她 最新的高级定制珠宝系列——“来自黄金兽栏的神秘生物”中,展 现了她天马行空般的创作灵感最棒的一面。在这篇亚太地区独家专访 中,Temple,这位现与生意伙伴丈夫Paul Engler、两个正处于青少年活 跃发展阶段的儿子Alexander和Archer,以及德国牧羊犬Maximus一起 居住在纽约的珠宝设计大师,将为我们揭示她的创作灵感。
这一系列的演变是什么?
“来自黄金兽栏的神秘生物”是我最新的高级珠宝系列作品,包括了9 种独一无二的想象中的生物,并由佛罗伦萨最好的珠宝大师、雕刻师和 切割师们采用罕见的宝石制作完成。我找到了著名艺术家,也是我的好 朋友Nancy Lorenz(南希 洛伦茨)进行这次合作。我邀请南希参与, 并将其艺术创作热情投入到九款独一无二的首饰盒中,来承载这一系列 与众不同的珠宝饰品。我们分享对珠宝和珍稀材质的喜爱,我提供了素 描、水彩和我选择的宝石供Nancy参考,之后决定使用金银叶子、珍珠 母、天然颜料、粘土和树脂来制作珠宝盒。她创造了一个神秘世界,黄 金树叶搭成的窝里栖息着大角猫头鹰,而这实际上是一个戒指;海龙耳 环上,是在钴蓝色的夜晚海面上镶嵌着一枚珍珠母;花园之蛇项链,则 滑行在铺在低调的粗麻布上的黄金树叶上。
您在最新系列中选取这些动物题材的原因是什么?
这其中我非常喜爱的一款作品是美杜莎月光水母戒指。为了表现水 母半透明的质感,我用一块切割成镜片形状的水晶石盖在一枚澳洲
KONCIERGE
FANTASY MAKER
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KONCIERGE
I AM PASSIONATE ABOUT THE NATURAL WORLD AND HAVE BEAUTIFUL MEMORIES FROM PERSONAL OBSERVATIONS AND EXPERIENCES THAT INSPIRE THESE PIECES
Why did you choose these animals for this collection?
One of my favourite pieces is the Medusa Moon Jellyfish Ring. I wanted to depict the translucent quality of a jellyfish so I set an Australian Andamooka opal under a lens cut rock crystal. The colours of the opal flash randomly giving life to the piece like a moon jelly floating through the depths. The ring is further accented by an asymmetrical cluster of Lightening Ridge black opals, coloured diamonds and electric blue German hauyne. Even underneath the ring its tendrils sparkle with yellow diamonds. I wanted to depict the fairy tale and magical quality of each creature and particularly love how the Medusa was brought to life. I am passionate about the natural world and have beautiful memories from personal observations and experiences that inspire these pieces. The Flying Fish bracelet comes from memories of sailing for a month in the Maldives. Towards sunset, flying fish would skitter across the surface of the water and I vividly recall their silver flashes over the deep blue sapphire sea. I illustrated that memory in this bracelet, depicting changeable colours of fish scales with blue green paraiba tourmaline and bright green tsavorite with Royal blue moonstone heads and fins, diving through a sea of sapphires. The Turtles on the Rocks ring and the Frog Prince ring celebrate wonderful time spent with my two young sons, swimming in country ponds where turtles rested on the rocks and logs on the shore, and frogs and toads floated in the marsh grass.
What jewellery do you remember from your youth?
One of my earliest jewellery experiences was decades ago with my mother in Rome when we visited Bulgari on via Condotti. The store did not display any jewellery; one was invited to sit at a beautiful desk where tray after tray of treasures were presented. When my mom finally decided on an ancient coin ring, they wrapped the box in a humble paper closed and stamped with red sealing wax. To me, it is how true jewellery should be presented - with ritual and ceremony. It’s so sad that the big brands have let that go.
Andamooka蛋白石上,蛋白石散射的颜色赋予作品如月光水母漂浮在 深海中的生命色彩。通过一串非对称装饰的Lightening Ridge黑色蛋白 石、彩钻和电蓝色德国蓝方石,进一步强调了戒指的主题。我希望揭示 神话和每种生物的神秘特性,以及对美杜莎生命特质的喜爱。 我无比热爱大自然,拥有很多探索和体验大自然的美好记忆。飞鱼手镯 就是源自我在马尔代夫一个月航海的回忆。面向落日,飞鱼掠过水面, 我清晰无比地忆起飞鱼滑过美丽的深蓝色海面的一道道银光。我的记忆 在这款手镯中再现,用蓝色绿色帕拉伊巴碧玺装饰表现了飞鱼多变的色 彩,用亮绿色的沙佛莱石和品蓝色的月长石装饰头部和鱼鳍,并用蓝宝 石表现深邃的大海。 岩石上的龟群戒指,还有青蛙王子戒指,是为了庆祝与我的两个儿子共 享的欢乐时光,当我们在乡下的池塘里游泳时,乌龟们就在旁边的岩石 上栖息,原木排列在岸边,青蛙和蟾蜍在沼泽的长草间载沉载浮。
从您年轻时起,哪些珠宝令您印象深刻?
我最早的珠宝体验,已经是几十年前的事情了,我跟母亲在罗马参观位 于via Condotti的宝格丽旗舰店。那家店里并没有展示任何珠宝,客人 在一张精美的桌子前落座后,一盘盘的精美珠宝才呈现上来。当母亲最 终决定选择一款古老的金币戒指后,店员用低调的纸张包裹好首饰盒, 并在红色的封蜡上盖上图章。这一场景,向我展现了以庄重的仪式般, 将珠宝精品完美呈现的方式。
您母亲和祖母佩戴的哪些珠宝给您留下了深刻印象?
我看到母亲和祖母不仅佩戴家族珠宝,还精心选择珠宝首饰并成为个人 风格的一部分。我祖母通常佩戴一套黄金指环和一枚家族巅峰期的戒 指,她平时还会佩戴一枚铜质手镯,据说对关节炎有帮助。我母亲非常 时尚,喜爱色彩丰富和大胆前卫的饰品。在上世纪70年代,她拥有一枚 巨大的巴西祖母绿切割的海蓝色宝石戒指,她还喜爱美洲原住民首饰, 收集了大量饰品并且经常佩戴。在非常庄重正式的场合,会佩戴她的祖 母传给她的维多利亚时期的钻石手镯。这些早期关于珠宝的精彩故事、 历史和联系的体验,对我今天的珠宝饰品创作非常重要。
是什么因素影响您成为现在的自己?
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What jewellery did your mother and grandmothers wear that left an impact on you? Growing up I watched my mother and grandmother wear family jewels as well as collect treasures that became part of their individual style. My grandmother always wore a selection of stacked gold bands and a family crest ring. She also always wore a copper bangle, said to help with arthritis. My mom was very fashionable and loved colour and bold pieces. In the ‘70s she owned a large Brazilian emerald cut aquamarine ring. She also loved Native American jewellery and together we collected numerous pieces that she would often wear. For very dressy occasions, she would wear a Victorian diamond bracelet from her grandmother. My early jewellery experience emphasised story, history and connection that is so important to me in the jewellery I create today.
在早期,我是大自然的孩子、探险者、冒险者和收藏者。我是独女,我 觉得相对别人更多的独处时间培养了我的想象力。我们家有很多宠物, 甚至包括一群我亲自用恒温箱孵化的鹌鹑。我总是会救助动物,走失的 猫和狗,海鸟和乌龟。我父亲传给我他对大海的热爱,因此我从5岁开始 学习带呼吸管潜水,14岁开始带水肺潜水。我童年和少年时,到过许多 欧洲大城市,参观教堂、宫殿、城堡和博物馆。我母亲鼓励我培养自己 的风格,所以我坚持不懈地尝试各种各样的服装和珠宝首饰。大学选专 业时,我在海洋生物学和自由艺术创作之间摇摆不定,最终我还是选择 了艺术文学和艺术史。这些道路引导我进入珠宝创作领域,在这里我所 有的热情都能充分爆发。
自然界的森林和大海中的生命是我创作的灵感源泉。我热爱观察自然, 自然的动感、色彩和互动。我喜欢亲自深度体验自然。
您的标志石是什么?
What influenced you to become the woman that you are?
From early on I was a child of nature; an explorer, an adventurer, a collector. I am an only child which I think cultivates the imagination due to more alone time. I collected rocks, shells, fossils, pressed flowers. We lived with various pets including quails which I hatched in an incubator. I was always rescuing animals; stray dogs and cats, sea birds and turtles. My father shared his love of the sea so I learned to snorkel at age five and scuba dive at 14. I visited the great cities, churches, palaces, castles and museums of Europe as a child and teenager. My mother encouraged me to cultivate my own style so I constantly experimented with clothes and jewellery. For university, I was torn between pursuing marine biology and liberal arts but eventually studied art literature and art history. These paths led me to design jewellery where I have found a way to simultaneously express all of my passions.
哪些自然的元素激发了你的创作灵感?
What elements of nature inspire your creations?
I am inspired by creatures of the forest and the sea. I love to observe nature; its movements, its colours, its interactions. I like to experience nature first hand and in depth.
皇家蓝月光石是我最重要的标志石,这种珍宝正变得越来越贵重,产量 也越来越少。它闪烁着蓝光,并且因佩戴者肤色的不同而看起来有所变 化,令其格外与众不同。
您每天佩戴的珠宝是什么?
就每天而言,我会带着我的第一个岩石水晶护身符,一枚粗加工绿宝石 戒指(这可是我买的第一枚彩色宝石啊),一枚我丈夫Paul Engler赠 给我的蓝宝石,一款蛇形戒指,我的婚戒,一款幼狮造型的手环,还有 我从没摘下过的黄金和钢质的手环,以及一枚贝壳护身符,产自马撒葡 萄园岛当地的万帕诺亚格部落。这些都是我个人形象非常重要的组成部 分,展现了我生活中的各个方面。
那么特殊场合呢?
11月份,为了出席一场特别的活动,我借用了神秘生物系列中的Phoenix Chick雏凤耳环。鲜艳的蓝宝石、黑色的蛋白石还有水滴状的坦桑石,真 令人着迷。我还佩戴了钟爱的黑色蛋白石托勒密(Tolomeo)戒指。澳 洲黑色蛋白石也许很快成为我系列作品中的另一种标志石,每一颗蛋白 石都是如此与众不同,能充分体现佩戴者的个性特征。
婚礼上您佩戴的珠宝是什么?
What is your signature stone? Royal Blue Moonstone is one of my most signature stones. It’s becoming more and more precious as the quality we seek out becomes rarer and rarer. The way it flashes blue and looks different on everyone’s skin tone makes it so unique.
在伯克郡乡下的倾盆大雨中,我和丈夫私定终身。我穿着Comme des Garçons(川久保玲)礼服,没有佩戴任何珠宝饰品,直到带上婚戒, 当然,是我自己设计的,其设计理念是两条缠绕在一起的藤蔓,相互依 偎,象征着我们密不可分的婚后生活。
What jewellery do you wear day to day? Just about every day, I wear my very first rock crystal amulet, a cushion cut cabochon emerald ring (the first coloured gem I ever
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purchased), a blue sapphire my husband [Temple St. Clair president Paul Engler] gave me, a serpent ring, my wedding rings, my lion cub linky bracelet, a gold and steel bangle that I never remove and a shell talismans made by a Native Wampanoag on Martha’s Vineyard. These pieces are very much part of me and represent different aspects of my life. And for special occasions? In November, for a special event, I borrowed the Phoenix Chick earrings from the Mythical Creatures collection. They were amazing to wear with all the vibrant sapphires, black opals and tanzanite drops. I also wore a favourite black opal Tolomeo ring. Australian Black Opal may soon be considered another signature stone in my collection. Each opal is so unique that it epitomises my views on the uniqueness of the individual and how each person can express themself through jewellery. What jewellery did you wear to your wedding? My husband and I eloped in the Berkshire countryside in a downpour. I wore a Comme des Garçons dress and no jewellery until I received my wedding band. Of course, I designed our bands, which include a relief of two vines intertwining, representing the paths of our intersecting lives together. Why is jewellery so important to a woman’s overall look? I believe jewellery is not so important to a woman’s overall look as it is to her actual being. Fine jewellery that carries heart, soul and history, when it is carefully chosen by the wearer, becomes a powerful personal statement. It is not merely an accessory or trend item to brighten an outfit. It often subtly represents the wearer’s story and inner life. This is why I create jewellery: I want to inspire passion and someone’s ability to rediscover what moves her.
为什么珠宝对女性的整体形象是如此重要?
我相信珠宝首饰对女人的整体形象而言,并不如对女性的心灵更重要。 精美的珠宝首饰承载着爱心、灵魂和历史,经过佩戴者精心选择后,就 成为了强有力的个人宣言,而不仅仅是一件搭配整套服装的饰品或者流 行产品,而且常常会微妙地展现佩戴者的故事和内心生活。这也是我设 计创作珠宝饰品的原因:我希望鼓励人们的热情,激发重新发掘前进动 力的能力。
什么是永恒的关键因素?
找到了合适的主人,一款绝对高品质的珠宝饰品就能变得永恒。
佛罗伦萨和纽约怎样影响了您?
就我的创作工作而言,佛罗伦萨是我的心,纽约是我的头。而在个人生 活中,我的家在纽约,那里就成为我的心。佛罗伦萨,主题则是关于首 饰制作大师,解开创作谜题,或者在托斯卡纳丘陵间的自行车骑行,还 有大家一起共享美餐。在纽约,我热爱这座城市充沛的能量、多元化、 精彩的街道生活和人群。纽约的每个人都很有性格,充满幽默。
哪种文化的珠宝带给您灵感?
不同文化之间的关联带给我灵感。 你珍藏着《了不起的盖茨比》的作者弗朗西斯·斯科特·基·菲茨杰拉 德(F. Scott Fitzgerald)写给你祖母Mary Lou Archer的情书。你的祖 母告诉了你哪些关于他们联络的内容? 很遗憾,我的祖母基于她和菲茨杰拉德(Fitzgerald)之间的“友谊”, 拒绝向我透露任何有趣的细节,她只是告诉我们“斯科特太棒了!”
您是怎么成为珠宝设计师的?
当我第一次遇到一位佛罗伦萨的首饰工匠时,仿佛被时间机器带回了几 个世纪之前。那时我帮母亲找人把一枚古代金币嵌入一条项链,我立刻 被迷住了,这成了我的终身职业。
What classic pieces do you believe are timeless?
A uncompromisingly fine piece of jewellery can become timeless if it finds the right owner. How do Florence and New York inspire you?
您如何放松自己?是怎么激发灵感帮助您工作的?
阿斯汤加瑜伽课程令我保持健康和灵活。今年初我还参加了超脱禅定法 训练课程,现在我每天冥想2次,这对我是一种新的锻炼方式,一天都没 落下。我发现这确实是一种非同寻常的锻炼方式,令我精力充沛,充满 信心。
With regard to my work, Florence is my heart and New York City is my head. In my personal life, New York is my heart since it’s where my family is. Florence is all about my time with my artisans, solving creative puzzles or cycling over the Tuscan hills with the goal of sharing a great meal together. In New York, I love the energy, diversity, street life and people. Everyone in New York is a character and endlessly amusing.
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I AM FASCINATED BY THE MYTH AND SYMBOLISM ATTACHED TO ANCIENT COINS, WHICH REACHED GREAT HEIGHTS IN MAGNA GRAECIA AND PARTICULARLY IN SICILY
Which culture’s jewellery inspires you?
How did you become a jeweller?
I am inspired by the connections between cultures.
When I first met a Florentine goldsmith, I was transported by time machine back several centuries. What began as an errand for my mother to find an ancient coin to make into a necklace turned into a fascination and lifelong career.
You treasure love letters written to your grandmother, Mary Lou Archer, by The Great Gatsby author F. Scott Fitzgerald. What did your grandmother tell you about their liaison? My grandmother unfortunately refused to divulge any juicy details regarding her “friendship” with Fitzgerald, but would just tell us that “Scottie was divine!”
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What do you do to relax? How does this help your spirit and work? My ashtanga yoga class keeps me healthy and flexible. I took a course in Transcendental Meditation earlier this year so I meditate twice a day. It’s a new practice for me but I haven’t missed a day and I find it remarkably energising and grounding.
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OPU LE NCE HAIR & MAKEUP Sarah Laidlaw @ Union Using Kテゥrastase Couture Styling www.kerastase.com.au
SHOT exclusively for KONCIERGE by Tト]e Coffin www.tanecoffin.com
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Gold leaf headband crown by Kerrie Stanley Millinery
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Dress used as turban by Ixiah
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by
Christabel Draffin
Colour Chameleon Shot exclusively for KONCIERGE in London by Jenni Hare STYLIST Harriet Cotterill, David Artists UK – davidartists.co.uk MAKEUP Jo Frost, CLM UK HAIR Ernesto Montenovo, Phamous Artsits London – phamousartists.com MODEL Hilda-Lee, NEXT London
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COLOUR CHAMELEON
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Colour makes an entrance and will brighten your mood just as it does your face. CHRISTABEL DRAFFIN
上一季T台秀的显著特点,从纽约到巴黎,几乎每位设计师,都使用了裸 妆和纯天然自然妆。而本季似乎也没什么不同,女性依然专注于化妆的 神奇力量,如彩虹般绚丽。在保持新版的70年代服装风格的同时,彩妆 的巨大魅力也重返T台。
腮红会令你的面部趋于生动明快,找到一款适合自己的颜色并不难,其 效果也是立竿见影的。另外也请关注肌肤的色调,比如色调偏暗的肌 肤,适合选用明亮鲜艳的颜色;而白皙的肌肤,尽管也可以使用明亮的 颜色,却要注意用更加轻柔的手法并完美混合调试。
说起来简单,然而彩妆可不是那么容易掌控的。彩妆能展示您最亮丽的 一面,妆点美丽面容的同时,还极大地提升了气质。
亮色的腮红膏,有别于日常化妆,是一种非常适合尝试夸张色彩的腮 红。腮红膏比腮红粉更轻薄透明,所以可以选择迷人的亮色,薄薄地敷 上一层,从而营造出如玫瑰般健康娇嫩鲜艳的绝佳视觉效果。
彩妆的方式方法多种多样,没有一定之规。我不认为化妆应该遵循固定 规则,在此与大家分享一些我自己的彩妆窍门技巧。就如对待生活中那 些让你觉得无从下手的事情一样,让我们慢慢来。用亮色的眼线笔修饰 上睫毛线,用润滑的睫毛膏装点出美丽的蓝色眼影。或者在周六的晚上 给自己画上鲜红或橘黄的口红,也是个不错的起步尝试。彩妆也是表现 个性特质的最佳途径,能令人看起来不落伍。
腮红粉的优点是比腮红膏更持久,敷用靓丽的腮红粉的绝佳技巧就是, 用刷子轻擦扑粉,并抖掉多余的部分,然后用刷子的尖端轻轻地吻过脸 颊。请别忘了,上妆容易卸妆难!如果觉得效果有些过了,可以用微湿 的海绵轻轻擦拭。专注脸颊上颧骨周围的色彩,轻柔地擦拭,并结合画 圆的运动方式,最摩登的效果唾手可得。
腮红
彩妆产品荟萃
亮色的腮红,绝对是令你跟上彩妆流行趋势的最佳方式,它看起来极其 绚丽甚至可能有些吓人,但巧妙使用后一定会令你光彩照人。不需要施 用得太过厚重,现在可不是上世纪八十年代了,选用柔和光晕效果的就 好,可别看起来像老古董。
品牌之间会有差别,有些品牌的亮色产品更出色,包 括:MAC、Illamasqua、Urban Decay和NARS (在Mecca Cosmetica有售)、Make Up For Ever以及Marc Jacobs Beauty (在 Sephora有售)。而像兰蔻、Napoleon Perdis, 植村秀和迪奥这样的品 牌,毫无疑问其亮色产品表现也很卓越。绚丽的色彩无处不在!
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COLOUR CHAMELEON
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Colour! It’s all about colour this season.
Colour to Dive Into
Last season’s runway shows were exceptional for the consistent use of nude and natural makeup looks by almost every designer, from New York to Paris. But this season couldn’t be more different as women embrace the power of full makeup again, in every shade of the rainbow. In keeping with the new 70’s mood in clothing, high glamour makeup is back again.
Certain brands have a better bright colour range than others. Good ranges for bright shades are MAC, Illamasqua, Urban Decay and NARS (at Mecca Cosmetica), Make Up For Ever and Marc Jacobs Beauty (at Sephora). However all of the brands have beautiful brights that can be found in their ranges – think Lancome, Napoleon Perdis, Shu Uemura and Dior. Gorgeous colour can be found everywhere!
That’s easy to say, but colour can be intimidating to try if you’re not used to it. Colour makes an entrance and will brighten your mood just as it does your face. So there are ways to wear colour – not rules, because I don’t like makeup to have rules, but there are some tips and tricks to making colour work for you. Like anything in life that frightens you, start with baby steps. Wear a bright eyeliner on your upper lashline, or a beautiful blue eyeshadow with a slick of mascara. Or a vivid red or orange lip on a Saturday night can be a great way to start. Colour is also best worn on one feature at a time to avoid looking dated. Blush A bright blush can be a fabulous way to transition into the colour trend, as what looks super bright and a bit scary in the pan can look radiantly beautiful on your face. No need to apply it in bold stripes either – it’s no longer the 80’s and the application is a soft halo of colour, not Dynasty-era contours! Blush should make your face come alive, to sing with health and when you find a good colour for you, you will instantly know it. It’s an instant pick-me-up for the face. It’s also important to remember it has everything to do with skin tone, so darker skin tones can get away with wearing very bright and pigmented colours easily – paler skin tones can still wear bright colours but need to use a much lighter hand in application and blend very well. Cream blushes in a bright shade are perfect for trying bolder colours you may not normally wear. As cream colours are much sheerer than powders, you can choose an amazing bright shade and sheer it out until it just looks like the rosy bloom of health. Powder blushes have the advantage of lasting longer than creams, and the best trick to applying very bright blusher and not scaring people is to dab the brush lightly onto the colour, knock off the excess and just kiss the skin with the tip of the brush. Remember it’s easier to add than it is to take away! You can blend with a damp sponge as well if you feel like you’ve over done it. Concentrating the colour on the apple of the cheek and gently sweeping up and blending with circular motions will give you the most modern effect.
Colour Whirl My pick of the bright bunch: Red MAC Basic Red pigment, Illamasqua Berber Pure Pigment, Chanel Hydrabase lipstick in Fire. Yellow MAC Eyeshadow in Chrome Yellow, Illamasqua Nail Varnish in Rare, Make Up For Ever Aqua Cream in Yellow. Blue Illamasqua have a whole blue collection this season, and the standouts are Nail Varnish in Prismatic and Shine Lipgloss in Iridesce, both beautiful icy pearly light blues. Dior DiorShow Mascara in Azure Blue for cobalt lashes. Green NARS Misfit Eyeshadow duo, NARS Rated R Eyeshadow Duo, MAC Nail Lacquer in Rich Kid Blues, Stila Smudgestick Waterproof Eyeliner in Moray. Purple Tom Ford Violet Fatale lipstick, Estee Lauder Pure Colour Envy Sculpting Eyeshadow 5-Colour Palette in Envious Orchid, Laura Mercier Caviar Eye Stick in Orchid. Pink NARS Dual Intensity Blush in Panic, YSL Glossy Stain Pop Water in Misty Pink, Chanel Le Blush Crème de Chanel in Affinite, Burberry Lip and Cheek Bloom in Hydrangea. Orange MAC Morange lipstick, Illamasqua Powder eyeshadow in Vulgar, Shu Uemura Tint in Gelato in Blood Orange, Estee Lauder Pure Colour Envy Sculpting lipstick in Daring.
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Editor’s Picks
GOING GLOBAL BY CHRISTABEL DRAFFIN
Inspired by an impending European trip, lately I’ve been trying a lot of new products that come from all over the world. A whole host of new favourites has appeared in my bathroom cabinet, my bedside table and my makeup bag to delight my senses, improve my skin and make my life, generally, a more beautiful place. Great products don’t just come from the US and the UK anymore – they’re a global affair, from nearly every country. Sadly whilst I won’t be visiting each of these countries on my upcoming travels, I can at least enjoy their beauty offerings. I bring you:
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New Zealand – Antipodes skincare
This is a new brand to my beauty shelf, and so far I’m in love. My favourites are Worship Superfruit Antioxidant Serum, which makes your skin feel like silk, and Avocado Pear Nourishing Night Cream which is a very hydrating night cream, perfect for the colder winter months. Produced in the pristine environment of New Zealand, they have heavenly pure plant fragrances and are certified organic.
United Kingdom - Burberry Beauty
Proudly flying the Union Jack is Burberry, which is truly a great British brand. I’m excited about their new Lip and Cheek Blooms for a hint of perfect colour, and their gorgeous new Longwear Soft Perfecting Eyeshadows that debuted at their Autumn/Winter 2015 show. They are another incarnation of their effortless beauty philosophy and so perfect for a quick and easy smoky eye.
USA – Estee Lauder
From the US of A we have the ultimate in American hair and beauty, Estee Lauder. Beloved by women for over sixty-nine years, her range of makeup, skincare and perfume is renowned the world over and is the essence of quintessential American beauty. Right now I’m loving their Pure Color Sculpting Lipsticks, and the Bronze Goddess Powder Bronzer is what I’m using to perk up my sadly fading summer tan.
Japan – Shu Uemura Art of Hair
即将到来的欧洲之旅给了我灵感,之后我开始尝试使用来自世界各地的 新产品。大量我喜爱的新品出现在我的浴室储物柜、床头柜和化妆包 里,愉悦我的感官,改善我的皮肤,也令我的生活更加美好。 优秀的产品并非都出自美国和英国,而是来自全世界,几乎所有的国 家。虽然很遗憾这次的旅程我无法造访每一个国家,却很荣幸能使用各 地的美容产品,同时也奉献给您分享。
这是我的梳妆台上的新成员,至今仍非常喜爱。我喜欢的产品包 括:Worship Superfruit Antioxidant Serum抗氧化精华,可令肌肤如丝 般顺滑,以及Avocado Pear Nourishing Night Cream牛油果梨子精华 滋润晚霜,非常适合在寒冷的冬季使用。产自新西兰纯净的大自然,清 新的香气令人如醉如痴,当然还有绝对纯天然的品质。
France – Chanel
How does one choose only a couple of products at Chanel? I love so many of their products that it’s difficult to choose, but right now I would have to say I’m crushing on their Vitalumiere Aqua foundation, as it’s lightweight and perfect for creating that airbrushed skin without heavy foundation effect, and their nail polishes. Those I can collect like luxe M&M’s, but classics to try would be Rouge Noir (created twenty years ago, and forever iconic), and the gorgeous nude of Chanel’s Secret polish.
美国——Estee Lauder
Estee Lauder,是美国的美容美发业最杰出的品牌。69年来,一直深受 女性喜爱,其彩妆、护肤和香水产品,是美国美容界的基石,并享誉全 球。当下,我正痴迷于Pure Color Sculpting Lipsticks口红,而我也正使 用Bronze Goddess Powder Bronzer,来帮助我重塑已经褪去的夏季的 古铜色肤色。
Ellis Faas is an amazing Dutch makeup artist and the principle behind her makeup line is that all the colours should be ones that the body produces naturally. Thus, her colours are very flattering for all skin tones, and her red lipsticks, Creamy Lips in Bright Red and Blood Red, are incredible and look so striking when you want just the right perfect punch of colour. The innovative sleek silver bullet pens that package them are uber-chic as well.
英国——Burberry美容系列
Burberry是一个伟大的英国品牌,也是英国的骄傲。配色完美无瑕的 新款口红和腮红,以及2015年秋冬季产品发布会上的Longwear Soft Perfecting Eyeshadows眼影,均令我非常振奋。这两款产品正如其一 贯的简单易得的美容哲学,令眼部烟熏妆轻而易举。
In Winter my hair gets really dry and needs more TLC than usual, so I’m reaching for the luxurious, revitalizing hair care range, The Art of Hair from Shu Uemura. Their Ultimate Remedy shampoo and conditioner calms my frazzled locks and the delicious fragrance makes my shower into a sanctuary. My absolute favourite from the range is the Ultimate Remedy Extreme Restoration Treatment. Holland – Ellis Faas
新西兰——Antipodes护肤系列
日本——植村秀Art of Hair美发系列
在冬季,我的头发会变得很干燥,需要比平时更多的精心护理,所 以我选择植村秀的Art of Hair,具有美发修复功能的奢华美发护发产 品。Ultimate Remedy 洗发香波和护发素,不仅解决了我的困扰,其 芬芳的香气也令洗浴成了舒适的享受。我的最爱是Ultimate Remedy Extreme Restoration Treatment。 荷兰——Ellis Faas
Ellis Faas是一位杰出的荷兰化妆大师,其化妆原则就是色彩要与身体发 肤自然一致,她的彩妆产品适合所有肌肤色调。其红色口红,亮红色和 血红色丝光唇膏非常引人注目,其创新设计的银色子弹笔状的包装也独 具一格。
法国——香奈儿
怎么可能从香奈儿众多产品中只选出两三件来?太困难了,我喜爱的产 品太多了。不得不做出选择时,我会扑向Vitalumiere Aqua粉底。这 是一款轻盈的产品,不需要敷用过厚的粉底就能完美打造如喷绘般的效 果。当然我还会选择指甲油,特别推荐的是Rouge Noir(创建于20年 前,并成为了永恒标志),还有精美的Chanel’s Secret polish.
澳大利亚——茱莉蔻
茱莉蔻是我喜爱的澳大利亚纯天然护肤品牌,其产品原料产自茱莉蔻在 阿德莱德,囊括了澳洲乡村美景的纯净的环保农场,以生物动力学方式 精心培育。在寒冷的日子里,Hand Cream in Rose玫瑰手霜是我祛除 手部干燥不适感的不二选择,Lavender Hydrating Mist则是我办公桌上
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SO WHETHER YOU’RE JET SETTING THIS WINTER OR ENJOYING THE CREATURE COMFORTS OF HOME, YOU CAN TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF THE WORLD WITH YOU, WHEREVER YOU ARE.
Australia – Jurlique
的必备,在感到疲倦时令我迅速恢复精力,也是我夜晚出门前非常喜欢 的舒缓喷雾。
Jurlique is one of my favourite Australian skincare brands, encapsulating the beauty of the Australian countryside, where the ingredients are grown biodynamically in the unspoiled sanctuary of the Jurlique farm in the Adelaide Hills. Their Hand Cream in Rose is what I reach for when my hands are feeling super dry in the cooler months, and the Lavender Hydrating Mist is a musthave on my desk for a quick pick-me-up when I’m starting to feel tired. It’s also my favourite way to refresh makeup before going out in the evening.
意大利——阿玛尼
想到意大利,难免要想到阿玛尼。其新款的Eye Tints系列棒极了,营造 出如水般的闪耀色彩,非常适合作为烟熏妆的底色,其自身的表现力也 非常出色。我喜欢10、9和5号。该产品采用了新技术,敷用后会变成轻 薄的胶片般,牢固地附着在眼睑上,功效持久。 在这个冬季,无论是在外忙碌,还是在家享受,选取这个世界的最好的 产品,愉悦自己吧,无关乎你在哪里。
Italy – Armani
Really you can’t think of Italy without thinking of Armani. His new Eye Tints range is absolutely gorgeous, providing a sheer wash of shimmering colour that is lovely as a base for a smoky eye or on its own. My favourites are 10, 9 and 5. They are long-lasting and are a new technology that glides on and then transforms into a weightless supple film that adheres to the eyelids.
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The Most Sophisticated Natural Skincare Fresh To You MADE IN NEW ZEALAND WITH LOVE DELIVERED DIRECT WORLD WIDE
www.visionproductsdirect.com
DUALITY
OF RENEWAL THE TAO
THE TAO
OF RENEWAL DUALITY
To every life, there are seasons, and spring is the time for renewal. Just as winter allows us to rest and recharge our spirit and our mind with its colder weather and longer nights, so the fresh air of spring makes us feel like, literally, shedding what’s holding us back. Out with the old means in with the new, so prepare to rejuvenate – from your makeup bag, which needs more colour, to your hair, which needs more hydration to prepare for the hot summer months on their way, and your body which needs a thorough exfoliation and skin brightening regime to put your best foot forward for the new season. Out of the darkness comes light, out of the old comes the new. Prepare to be transformed.
Shot exclusively for KONCIERGE by Geoff Boccalatte Produced by Sass Glaesner Product selection by Chao Xian Yang Styling by Charli Burrowes
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Jurlique Nutri-Define Multi-Correcting Day Cream Jurlique Nutri-Define Superior Retexturising Facial Serum Jurlique Nutri-Define Rejuvenating Overnight Cream
DUALITY THE TAO OF RENEWAL
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Verso Day Cream Verso Super Eye Serum Sunday Riley Skin Adrenaline Sunday Riley Hydroactive Cellular Face Oil
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Armani/Prive Rose D’Arabie Eau de Parfum Armani/Prive Pierre de Lune Eau de Parfum
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Sachajuan Volume Shampoo Sachajuan Volume Conditioner Sachajuan Protective Hair Perfume
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Mecca Cosmetica Come Clean Reviving Body Wash Mecca Cosmetica Go Smooth Restoring Body Moisturiser Available from Mecca Cosmetica www.mecca.com.au
DUALITY THE TAO OF RENEWAL
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La Prairie Silver Rain Eau de Parfum La Prairie Midnight Rain Eau de Parfum Gucci Flora Eau de Parfum Lanc么me Paris La Nuit Tr茅sor Eau de Parfum
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Shiseido Future Solution LX Total Protective Cream Shiseido Future Solution LX Total Regenerating Cream
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Napoleon Perdis Auto Pilot BB Cream Napoleon Perdis Advanced Mineral Makeup Napoleon Perdis Camera Finish Foundation
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Racinne Ultimate Aqua Blanc Brightening Cream Racinne Ultimate Aqua Blanc Brightening Masque Racinne Ultimate Aqua Blanc Tonic Racinne Ultimate Aqua Blanc Concentrate
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L’Occitane Immortelle Brightening Instant Exfoliator L’Occitane Immortelle Brightening Water L’Occitane Immortelle Eye Care & Mask Duo L’Occitane Immortelle Brightening Essence L’Occitane Brightening Moisture Cream
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CONTEMPORARY CHINESE ARTIST
PIAO GUANG XIE www.piaoguangxie.com
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DENIM Shot exclusively for KONCIERGE by Adam Flipp FASHION DIRECTOR Michael Azzollini @Dlm HAIR Sarah Laidlaw @Union MAKEUP Dez Wisman FASHION ASSISTANT Marianne Malafosse Shot At The Front Studios
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Paige Denim , Camilla and Marc, Paige Denim overalls worn on body on head - Diesel, Levi’s and Paige Denim
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Both boys wear Burberry and Elana wears Burberry
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Alice Mc Call, Dion Lee, Zimmermann, Diesel, Burberry, Miu Miu
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Etro, True Religion, Alexa Chung Denim, Cocurata Denim
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Burberry Prorsum jacket jeans and belt
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Lover Dress, Paige Denim jeans, Camilla and Marc boots, Dolce and Gabbana leather jacket
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MIDNIGHT GLAMOUR Shot exclusively for KONCIERGE by Adam Flipp FASHION DIRECTOR Michael Azzollini @DLM MAKE UP Rae Morris @ reload HAIR Gavin Anesbury @ Viviens Creative FASHION ASSISTANT Becky Doyle MODELS Ping and Alexa Corbett @IMG, Simone Kerr @ Priscillas Elana @ Chic LOCATION Westfield Sydney www.westfield.com.au/sydney @WESTFIELDSYD
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Ping and Simone both wear Escada
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Simone, Alexa and Elana all wear Tom Ford
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Alexa and Ping both wear Gucci Elana wears Camilla and Marc
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Simone, Elana and Ping all wear Hugo Boss clothing, shoes by Terry Biviano
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Ping wears dress by CELINE and shoes Jeremy Scott for Adidas. Elana wears Adidas t-shirt , Rachel Gilbert pale blue ball Skirt
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Simone wears Jets swimwear and Christian Louboutin boots and bag
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Alexa wears MAX MARA
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Elana wears Sass and Bide
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Shot exclusively for KONCIERGE in London by David Reiss Special Thanks www.matchesfashion.com STYLIST David Hawkins @ Frank Agency GROOMING Ben Hards MODEL Sasha @ Premier Models ASSISTANT Su Fen Cheong
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Shirt and trousers by Craig Green Boots by GRENSON
Eden EAST OF EDEN
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T shirt DOLCE & GABBANA, Jacket D SQUARED
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Blue suede jacket by RAEY at MATCHES Trousers by ETRO
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Jacket and trousers by PRINGLE T shirt by RAEY at Matches Shoes by Lou Dalton
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Check shirt by BOTTEGA VENETA Jeans by Craig Green
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Leather jacket Lou Dalton T shirt by RAEY at Matches Jeans by Craig Green
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Printed t shirt DOLCE GABBANA
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Jacket by ANDREA POMPILIO Trousers by D SQUARED
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Coat by MATHEW MILLER polo by D Squared
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High Shot exclusively for KONCIERGE on Oosterdam by Christian Blanchard Special Thanks Holland America Line www.hollandamerica.com 1ST ASSISTANT Bruno Mameli 2ND ASSISTANT Jay Patel ART DIRECTION Michael Azzollini and Marianne Malafosse STYLIST/FASHION EDITOR Marianne Malafosse STYLIST ASSISTANT Irene Matteucci HAIR Graeme Cumming MAKE UP Ania Milczarczyk MODEL Amdy Nagy @Chic
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Jumper, skirt, socks, shoes and bag: Prada Cherries earring: Harlequin Market Leather mittens: Stylist’s own
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Satin blouse: Irma J Smith from Brisbane Arcade Skirt: Dolce and Gabbana from Matches Fashion Necklace: Shourouk from Matches Fashion Brown bag: Miu Miu Pink bag and lipstick key holder: Louis Vuitton Cut off gloves: Stylist’s own Bags carried by bell boys, from left to right - yellow studded bag: Christian Louboutin, graphic fabric bag: Jerome Dreyfuss, white embellished bag: Tods, white animal print fur handle bag: Deadly Ponies, red bag: Louis Vuitton, brown carry all: Longchamp, brown handles bag: Prada, rainbow print bag: Valentino from Matches Fashion, pink bag/clutch: Christian Louboutin, cobalt blue bag: Repetto, pink clutch: Kenzo, floral print clutch: Karen Walker, petite malle clutch: Louis Vuitton, suitcase: vintage Louis Vuitton (stylist’s own)
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Jacket, pants and tank top (not seen): Gucci Sunglasses scarf and bag: Louis Vuitton T bar sandals: Christian Louboutin Suitcase: vintage Louis Vuitton (stylist’s own).
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Sequinned gown: Rachel Gilbert Cloud clutch: Anya Hindmarch from Matches Fashion Silver cuff: Tiffany
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Coat, skirt, ruffle cropped shirt, belt, shoes and bag: Miu Miu Pink fingerless gloves: stylist’s own
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Silk and lace slip and kimono: Agent Provocateur Flower necklace and rings: Karen Walker Shoes: Christian Louboutin
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Tulle pleated vest, skirt and belt: Burberry Shoes: Miu Miu Bag: Christian Louboutin
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IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE
Shot exclusively for KONCIERGE by Cameron Grayson @ Vivien's Creative STYLIST Carlos Mangubat @ Unsigned Management STYLIST ASSISTANT Brett Bowen HAIR & MAKE UP Merton Muaremi using MAC cosmetics MODELS Rowena Xi Kang @ Chadwick SPECIAL GUEST MODEL Lucas Yu LOCATION The Toff in Town, Melbourne
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Shot exclusively for KONCIERGE by Jez Smith
Fashion Director Michael Azzollini
STRATEAS CARLUCCI X SAM
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Stay 体验
I hear you calling
Story by Sass Glaesner Photographs by Jenni Hare Shot exclusively for KONCIERGE in Africa
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Tell us about your childhood and some of your early memories of living in Africa.
跟我们讲讲你童年在非洲的记忆吧。
我出生在约翰内斯堡,并在那里生活到8岁。
I was born in Johannesburg and raised there until I was 8. I remember a lot from that time as my parents are intrepid which meant many family trips to places like the Kruger National Park, Botswana, Zimbabwe and our favorite yearly trip to the Transkei, Eastern Cape. We stayed in a small rustic house on the edge of a cliff where we would fish and swim in rock pools. The house had no electricity or running water so we had a lot of fun by the fire shucking fresh mussels.
回想起来,那时父母经常带我们去克鲁格国家公园、博茨瓦纳、津巴布 韦旅行,当然还有大家都喜欢的每年一度的东开普省的特兰斯凯之旅。 我们住在悬崖边上的乡间小屋里,还能在石头池塘里钓鱼游泳。房子没 电也没自来水,我们就坐在火塘边,剥着河蚌,乐趣无穷啊。 这些时光令我们全家非常亲密,虽然没有电视,那些户外活动还有丰富 的想象,就能令我们快乐无比。 我现在还常回开普敦,好多亲戚还住在那里呢。
Our family is extremely close because of times like this. No TV, just outdoors and our own imaginations for fun. I go back to Cape Town often, where the rest of my extended family now lives.
你现在把家安在哪里了?
我现在住在伦敦,我非常喜欢那里。无论你需要什么,无论你找寻什 么,那里总是充满了激情、动力,同时又富有优雅和宁静。我也很幸运 经常因公回到澳洲,有机会看望住在悉尼的家人。
Where is home for you now?
I currently live in London and I love it here for so many reasons. It has a certain energy that is simultaneously dynamic, berserk, highbrow and calm depending on what you seek and what you need at the time. I am also lucky enough to return to Australia often for work and to visit my family in Sydney. What are the greatest contrasts between Africa and the rest of the world? Africa has a soulful quality that I am yet to experience anywhere else in the world. All of the difficult things about it, the adversity and the struggle make it all the more rich and brimming with spirit, vitality and courage.
非洲拥有我在全世界其他地方从未体验到的精神价值,那些艰难困苦、 逆境求存的体验,最大限度地激发了人们的精神、活力和勇气。 这一切都会融入你的身心。 在这次为KONCIERGE杂志拍摄纪录照片之前,我考虑过很多这方面的 事情,我总能回想起那熟悉的节奏和灵魂,那里的土地和鼓声,令我心 驰神往。无关乎是好是坏,就是那么神奇。
们知道你学习的专业是建筑,跟我们讲讲你的职业路程吧,你何时 我 开始从事摄影?当时的动机是什么?
我从14岁开始摄影,这就是我的第一爱好,而且最终还战胜了我对建筑 职业的喜爱。相比较而言,摄影更能令我的创意尽情发挥。
It finds a way to get under your skin. I had to think a lot about this before shooting the documentary images for KONCIERGE and I always came back to the rhythm and soul, the earth and the drums. The beat of Africa. It’s not all bad and it’s not all good, it’s extraordinary. We know you studied architecture, tell us more about your career path, when did you transition to photography and what was your motivation?
There were so many defining moments. I was lucky enough to study under Anne Zahalka, an acclaimed Australian photo artist at school and then under Lynne Roberts-Goodwin another brilliant photographic artist. They both championed my work and I won a number of awards from a young age that helped spur me on.
如果有可能,哪里是你建立梦想之家的地方?
我不确定会选择哪个大洲,但一定会在绿色的环境里,也许是森林,当 然还要靠近海边。
Was there a defining moment when you realised you were meant to be a photographer?
什么特别有纪念意义的时刻,令你觉得成为一名摄影师是你今生的 有 宿命?
有很多呀,很幸运在学校时,我师从澳洲著名的摄影家Anne Zahalka,之后还跟着另一位杰出的摄影家Lynne Roberts-Goodwin 学习,他们都曾提携过我。从年轻时起,我就获得了很多奖项,这极大 地激励了我的创作热情。
I had been taking pictures from about the age of 14 and it was always my first love so it won out against architecture in the end. I enjoyed the engineering side of architecture but there was not enough creativity to keep my interest.
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非洲和世界其他地方最大的不同是什么?
什么是你的创作源泉?
我的周边环境,大自然,每日所见都会令我有所触动。我还经常被不同 话题的谈话所打动,有时可能促成合作,或者崭新的创意。 对你而言,找到了对摄影的热爱,是有些晚了呢,还是恰逢其时? 14岁,我妈妈把她的佳能FTB全钢机身相机传给了我,从那时起,我从 未停止拍摄,一如既往。
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If you could live anywhere, where would you build your dream home?
I’m not sure which continent I prefer but it would be in a green spacea forest perhaps, and near the coast. Of course!
我更倾向于古典风格,表现古典美和永恒的画面。我喜爱永恒的主题。
Would you say that you found your passion late or was it just the right time for you? I haven’t stopped shooting since I was given my mother’s Canon FTb steel body camera at age 14! That was it. How would you describe your style?
就一幅摄影作品而言,轻松的构图,再加上一些不寻常、有趣味或者出 人意料的表现主体,就足以令人驻足观赏。
我想这取决于摄影主体。如果是拍摄美丽的主体,那么我会着力表达力 量和平静的结合。我乐于表现女性的自信,性感、柔弱,然而充满自信 和安逸。
彩色对黑白,哪个更强?
你什么是你最强的?最弱的?
难答呀!好吧,我的强项是以创意的方式解决问题。弱项嘛,我不是非 常善于推销,而且我喝茶太多!
What makes a brilliant picture in your eyes?
Effortless composition and something unusual, playful or exceptional that makes you stop and look. Exactly what is it you want to say with your photographs, and how do you get your photographs to convey your intent?
什么促使你继续摄影?
下一次拍摄,下一次创作,下一次合作,新的希望促使我前行。从概念 中寻求创意,产生清晰的意向,并诉诸实现!
I think it depends what I am shooting. If it’s a beauty shoot I aim to show a combination of strength and calm. I love showing the self-assured side of women. Sensual, soft and vulnerable yet confident and at ease.
你想通过摄影作品表述什么?你又是怎样用摄影作品表达意愿的?
我倾向于拍摄彩色照片,但是我也喜爱黑白照。有些图像适合彩照来表 现,有些则更适合用黑白照,创作者心知肚明。
I have more of a classic style. I lean more towards classic beauty and the timeless image. I love great composition and a stunning image that will last.
在你看来,一幅杰出的摄影作品有哪些构成要素?
What inspires you?
My surroundings, nature, things that I see while I’m getting on with my day. I’m often inspired by conversation that leads on to different topics and sometimes ends in a collaboration or an entirely new idea.
你怎么描述你的创作风格?
爱,对你而言意味着什么?
对我而言,爱意味着信任。如果你能全身心地信任,并一直支持你,那 就是爱。
Colour vs. black and white, one over the other?
I tend to shoot more colour but I love B&W as well. Some images suit one or the other and you just know.
What is your greatest strength? And weakness?
This is tough! I’d say my greatest strength is problem solving in a creative way. My greatest weakness… I’m not very ‘salesey’, and I drink way too much tea!
What motivates you to continue taking pictures?
The next shoot, the next creation and the next collaboration motivates me. It’s about taking an idea from conception to creating a clear vision and then making it happen!
What does love mean to you?
Love to me means trusting someone. If you can trust someone with your heart and to always have your back; that’s love.
I HEAR YOU CALLING
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Story by Sass Glaesner
Photographs by Jez Smith
AROUND THE ROCKS Join us on a five-day tour of some of the best, the quirkiest and the most elegant luxury hotels in and around Sydney’s famous Rocks district. We all have our favourite hotel destinations in every city, but what if you have been toying with the idea of trying something new? From the traditional to the downright quirky, KONCIERGE recently explored what’s great about some of Sydney’s premier inner city hotels. After a week of hotel hopping akin to speed dating we have come away with five very different hotel experiences to help you step out of your comfort zone and try something new.
悉尼最著名的岩石区,历时五天,五家最具品味的奢华酒店体验之旅。 在每座城市中,人们都有自己喜欢下榻的酒店。试想一下,尝试些新 的酒店类型,会是什么情形呢?从传统类型到各种稀奇古怪,最近 KONCIERGE杂志针对悉尼顶级酒店进行了探访,历时一周,5家酒店各 不相同的精彩体验,帮你找寻自己的舒适区,尝试不同品味的精彩。 周一 悉尼四季酒店 199 George Street, Sydney NSW 2000
MONDAY Website: www.fourseasons.com/sydney
Four Seasons Sydney 199 George Street, Sydney NSW 2000
这是一家传统的奢华五星级酒店,位于悉尼中心的岩石区,紧邻环形码 头,纵览悉尼歌剧院和海港大桥壮丽美景,为商务人员和家庭提供优雅舒 适的住宿体验。
Website: www.fourseasons.com/sydney This traditional luxury five star hotel is situated in the heart of The Rocks district and Circular Quay. With panoramic views of the iconic Sydney Opera House and Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Four Seasons offers an elegant home away from home experience for business travellers and families alike.
位于酒店一楼的 Pei现代餐厅,充分利用本地出产的应季食材,依照季节 变换,打造与众不同的时令菜单,提供舒适的小餐馆风格的就餐体验,令 访客赞不绝口。 从酒店一楼现代化结合复古装饰风格的Grain酒吧,可以欣赏繁忙的 George Street街景,享用精心挑选的家酿啤酒和纯天然红酒系列。忙碌 了一天之后,我在这儿连上免费的WIFI,浅酌一杯纯天然红酒,佐以一份
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The cosy Pei Modern restaurant offers a relaxed bistronomie style dining experience featuring locally sourced, seasonal ingredients and a frequently changing menu designed to follow the seasons and keep regular visitors to the restaurant wanting more. On the ground floor overlooking busy George Street the Grain bar combines contemporary décor with a rustic twist, perfectly complementing their great selection of specialist brewed craft beer and a mostly organic and biodynamic wine list. Travelling alone I found a quiet nook, hooked into the free WIFI and enjoyed an uninterrupted hour of work accompanied by a glass of good organic wine and a delicious snack. My Full Harbour View Junior Suite on the 31st floor was spacious and luxuriously appointed with a superbly comfortable king sized bed and a generous marble bathroom offering plenty of space for an entire family or for the guest who likes to travel with all the comforts of home. I appreciated the small touches and the bottle of chilled wine and delicious macarons were very welcome after a long day of travel. In fact the entire Four Seasons experience was as elegant and refined as I had expected from this much respected hotel chain but without doubt the highlight for me was definitely the breathtaking views of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Sydney Opera House. TUESDAY Shangri-La Hotel, Sydney 176 Cumberland St, The Rocks, Sydney NSW 2000
我的房间是位于31层的宽敞奢华的全海港景高级套房。特大的卧床,精 美的大理石浴室,室内面积足够供整个家庭,或者喜欢在旅行中享受宽敞 舒适的居家感觉的人士。漫长的旅途后,坐在沙发上,享用一杯清冽的美 酒,和一碟美味的马卡龙,真舒服啊。整个体验过程,充满了优雅清新的 感受,一如四季酒店令人尊敬的声誉。毫无疑问,最令我震撼的,当属令 人窒息的悉尼歌剧院和海港大桥壮丽的世纪美景。
周二 悉尼香格里拉酒店 176 Cumberland St, The Rocks, Sydney NSW 2000 Website: www.shangri-la.com/sydney/hotel 回味着日前品尝的马卡龙的余香,我入住了附近的下一站——悉尼香格里 拉酒店。 怀着寻幽探奇的期许,我来到了四季酒店边上的悉尼香格里拉酒店,入住 地平线俱乐部顶级海港美景套房,开始了另一段高品质五星酒店体验之 旅。这个房间的景观跟我之前欣赏过的壮丽美景一样动人心弦,柔软的窗 座,方便客人在尽情欣赏壮丽美景时,能放松身心享用一杯香茗。崭新奢 华的装修风格,亚洲风的天蓝和灰色图案设计,非常迎合我的品位。 香格里拉酒店的服务风格秉承“发自内心的殷勤待客之道”,从进入酒店 那一刻,酒店员工服务的方方面面,都令我充分体验到这一点。我们偶遇 酒店主厨Bo Sorensen,他很愉快地坐进我们的餐桌,谈起了酒店的获奖 餐厅Altitude restaurant,还有Café Mix提供的融合亚洲传统和当代最 新方法的食谱。
Website: www.shangri-la.com/sydney/hotel Well rested and still reveling in the memory of my macaroon perfection from the previous day I checked out and moved on to my next stop, the nearby Shangri-La Hotel, Sydney. Expecting another quality five star experience but hoping to discover something special that would set the Shangri-La Hotel, Sydney apart from its near neighbour the Four Seasons, I checked in and headed up to my Horizon Club Grand Harbour View room. This room was at a similar level to my last and offered the same incredible views but with the added advantage of a padded window seat on which to enjoy a cup of tea and take in the spectacular outlook. Newly renovated and quite luxurious, the décor appealed to my personal taste with its pale blue and grey colour palette and subtle Asian design influences. The Shangri-La’s service culture promotes “Hospitality from the heart” and I was reminded of this at every turn, from the helpful concierge team to the warm, delightful interaction with the staff member we surprised in the hallway on arrival. Our encounter with Hotel Head Chef Bo Sorensen was also relaxed and enjoyable as he joined us at our table to talk about Shangri-La’s award winning Altitude restaurant and the about the contemporary approach being applied to traditional Asian recipes at Café Mix. With a couple of hours to spare I took advantage of a spa treatment at CHI, The Spa choosing a full body exfoliation and facial treatment that was administered by CHI, The Spa’s Head Therapist and Sodashi specialist, Kristina. The treatment was without doubt the most pleasant and relaxing I have ever experienced. Kristina was
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精致小吃,好好放松心情吧。
在CHI Spa水疗中心,我还享受了中心首席理疗师,Sodashi产品专家 Kristina亲自主理的深度面部美容护理和全身皮肤保养,毫无疑问,感 觉非常轻松愉快,真是前所未有的体验。Kristina的技巧无与伦比!说实 话,我从没有如此满足,以至于想一次又一次地不断享受这里的水疗护 理。我以前也从没有如此发自内心地,向那些希望获得难忘的水疗体验 的朋友们,愉快地推荐香格里拉酒店的CHI Spa水疗中心。绝对是最佳亮 点!不容错过!
周三 QT Sydney 49 Market Street, Sydney NSW 2000 Website: www.qtsydney.com.au 来到位于悉尼商业中心的QT大酒店时,我想Q也许是代表着与众不同。 大门口迎宾的,是一位穿着非常戏剧化的性感女郎,带着火红的假发,衣 着令人想起二战的法国间谍。我想,这里跟其它的五星酒店一定会有很多 不同。 今 日这座令人兴奋的精品酒店,是业主历经三年,精心恢复历史风貌的 成果。悉尼内城最著名的两座建筑瑰宝:国家剧院和高英百货,由此换发 了新生。由艺术顾问、 建筑师和设计师组成的团队通力合作,将丰富的 历史、多变的建筑风格融入令人兴奋的室内设计元素,历时十八个月,收 集和整理古老和现代的艺术作品,展示在酒 店各个区域。拥有完全独特 的200间客房的QT悉尼酒店,足以令悉尼人理直气壮地感到骄傲。
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exceptionally skillful, managing to tap in to a deep sense of connection and absolute wellbeing that carried with me throughout the rest of the day. I confess, in my blissful state I even drifted off once or twice throughout the treatment, which has never happened before. I would therefore happily recommend the Shangri-La’s CHI, The Spa to anyone wanting a memorable spa experience. A definite highlight! WEDNESDAY QT Sydney 49 Market Street, Sydney NSW 2000 Website: www.qtsydney.com.au Q could well stand for Quirky with a capital letter when it comes to the QT Sydney in Sydney’s CBD. From the greeting at the front door by a theatrically attired ‘Director of Chaos’ sporting a flame haired wig and an outfit reminiscent of that of a World War Two French spy, I already knew this was going to be a long way from a regular five star hotel. The owners of today’s exhilarating destination invested three years into painstakingly restoring historical features and breathing a youthful vibe back into the heritage listed State Theatre and neighbouring Gowings building, two of inner city Sydney’s most prominent architectural treasures. A team of art consultants, architects and designers worked closely to merge the rich history and varying architectural styles with exciting interior design elements. Over a period of eighteen months the design team collected and curated the eclectic mix of old and new objects and art on display throughout the hotel. The resulting QT Sydney is a totally unique 200-room boutique hotel that Sydneysiders can justifiably be proud of. There are twelve unique room designs across the two distinct buildings, all featuring a bold colour palette of reds, yellows and orange against black and white. As the original layout of the buildings has been preserved, there is very little of the usual uniformity or predictability you would find in a regular hotel. Finding my way to our room on the 11th floor was a fun little adventure in itself with linking steps, stairwells and elevators solving access to the different levels and creating a fun flow between the buildings. The elevator trip to the 11th floor unlocked some happy vibes and gave me enough time to get into the spirit and have a sneaky little sing-along to the 1970’s disco soundtrack.
两栋特点鲜明的建筑中,共有12款客房设计,红色、黄色和橘色搭配黑白 的大胆的图案设计随处可见。原建筑的设计布局得到了非常好的保存,故 而这里的风格可不像一般酒店那样简洁规整。 找寻我位于11层的房间,就像一次有趣的冒险。楼里有四通八达的连接楼 梯、楼梯井和电梯,令建筑间的穿行变得非常有趣。通往11层的电梯之 旅,洋溢着欢快的氛围,我不由自主地沉浸其中,悄悄地哼起了1970年 代的迪斯科音乐。 . 就好像是《爱丽丝漫游奇境》一样,我的房门出现在一小段迷宫的底部。 客房看起来更像小户型公寓,而非一个奢华酒店。而房间内部装修却很奢 华迷人,灯光昏暗慵懒。这里有圆顶硬礼帽形状的灯罩,鸡尾酒制作设 备,怀旧游戏,红色的毛绒羊皮地毯,黑色瓷砖浴室里还有射灯和一个光 滑的独立浴缸。我喜欢这个无拘无束的豪华空间。 获奖餐厅Gowings Bar & Grill跟国家剧院位于同一建筑,是酒店的主营餐 厅,其装修成功地集合了纽约和欧洲风格。晚上就餐时,我们发现这里的 美食、服务和氛围都很棒。特别提醒您记得提前预定哦,这里太火了。鸡 尾酒吧晚上也很热闹。 简而言之,欲寻奇探趣,来这儿吧。 周四
Feeling a little like Alice in Wonderland, the door to my room appeared at the end of a short corridor maze. Looking more like a mini apartment than a hotel room, the inside didn’t disappoint with its luxurious, sultry décor and mood lighting. There were bowler hat light shades, cocktail making equipment, retro games, plush red sheepskin rugs, pin spot lighting in the black tiled bathroom and a sleek free standing bath tub. I loved the irreverent luxury of the space.
Pier One Sydney Harbour 悉尼塞贝尔一号码头酒店
The one hatted Gowings Bar & Grill occupies the same building as the State Theatre and is the official QT Sydney restaurant and bar. Gowings decor successfully blends the look and feel of a New York style diner with a touch of European Brasserie. Dining in the eve-
第四天,举步前往一家颇为熟悉的酒店,位置太棒了,就在沃什湾海边, 头顶上就是悉尼海港大桥的南侧塔桥。
11 Hickson Road, Walsh Bay, Sydney NSW 2481 Website: www.pieronesydney.com.au
始建于1912年,悉尼塞贝尔一号码头酒店是一幢精心维护、巧妙保养的
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ning, we found the food, service and atmosphere to be excellent, although I do recommend you book in advance as it is very popular venue with both locals and guests. The cocktail bar was also very busy on the night we were there. It seems that overall; the QT is quite the place to be and if you are looking for somewhere a little more adventurous and fun, this is the place for you. THURSDAY
联邦风格的木质结构建筑,曾做为游轮客运码头使用,之后用作货运码 头,直至1977年改建为商业用途。1999年,经进一步恢复重建,成为了 拥有189间客房的精品酒店,直至今日。 这次我下榻二楼的沃什湾套房,拥有62平米宽敞的室内面积。酒店有八种 不同的客房和套房设计样式,共同特点是外露的房梁和各种各样的建筑元 素,彰显了酒店悠久的历史。每间浴室均有独立的浴缸和淋浴区,还提供 舒适的丝绒浴袍和Appelles Apothecary品牌的奢华洗漱用品。
Pier One Sydney Harbour
我发现阳光海港景房和海景阳台套房居然有更棒的水景。海景阳台套房位 于三楼,有着宽敞的观景阳台,可以纵览壮丽的大桥景和Luna Park公园 美景,下次一定要尝试一下。
11 Hickson Road, Walsh Bay, Sydney NSW 2481
在桥墩下享受着海鲜午餐,或者在Gantry酒吧浅酌着美味的鸡尾酒,同 时观赏海港中丰富多彩的活动,我觉得没什么比这更能令人放松愉悦了。 如果你有兴趣观光,这里距岩石区、环形码头和悉尼歌剧院近在咫尺。
Website: www.pieronesydney.com.au
对我而言,奢华的住宿安排也是情感交流的重要内容,悉尼塞贝尔一号码 头酒店轻松专业的服务标准,绝对是精品奢华酒店的上佳选择。
Day four takes us just a short distance from the inner city hustle to visit one of our familiar favourites, located right on the waterfront at Walsh Bay and nestled at the foot of the Southern pylon of the Sydney Harbour Bridge.
推荐给那些期望个人奢华酒店体验的朋友们,做为周末休闲游或商务旅游 首选。 周五
Originally built in 1912; Pier One Sydney Harbour is a cleverly converted and restored Federation style timber building. For much of its life Pier One functioned as a passenger terminal for visiting cruise liners then later as a cargo wharf until its redevelopment for commercial use in 1977. In 1999 after further restoration and redevelopment the building was transformed into the innovative 189room boutique hotel it is today.
悉尼朗庭酒店 89-113 Kent Street, Miller’s Point, Sydney NSW 2000 Website: www.langhamhotels.com/en/the-langham/sydney/
On this occasion I stayed in one of the spacious sixty-two square metre Walsh Bay Suites on the first floor. There are eight different room and suite designs, all featuring exposed beams and various architectural elements that hint at the hotel’s history. Every bathroom offers twin vanity areas, a deep bath, separate rain shower, plush monogrammed robes and a supply of luxurious Appelles Apothecary toiletries. Although I felt quite spoilt, I discovered that the water views are even better from the sunny Harbour View and Harbour View Balcony Suites. A Harbour View Balcony Suite on the second floor, with access to a spacious balcony with spectacular views of the Harbour Bridge and Luna Park will definitely be on the list for my next visit. In my opinion, there is nothing more relaxing than watching the activity on the Harbour and you can do this from the pier whilst enjoying a fresh seafood lunch and cocktail from The Gantry Restaurant and Bar. Then if you have time for sightseeing, the hotel is located just an easy walk from The Rocks, Circular Quay and the Sydney Opera House.
不远处的悉尼朗庭酒店,理所当然也拥有完美的城市和海港美景,许多旅 游景点和地标建筑均在其一公里范围内,步行可至众多餐厅和环形码头。 这座新近装修的酒店拥有98间客房和套房,均配备了定制的高档家私,著 名艺术家们的精选作品装饰其间。 我住的房间拥有49平米宽敞的室内面积,这可是悉尼任何酒店都认可的最 大的室内面积了。房间有着巴黎公寓风格的优雅氛围,推拉式的法国门直 通宽敞阳台,在那里可以尽情享受城市公园和历史建筑的美景。 必须承认,穿了一整天的高跟鞋,午夜时分,那豪华的大理石浴室配着超 大浴缸,绝对是吸睛亮点享受天堂。 第二天早晨,我被百叶窗缝隙透过的灿烂阳光唤醒,在阳台上享受香气四 溢的热咖啡和绝妙的美味早餐。我一定会多回来看看,还有很多享受呢。 奢华享受体验的绝佳场所。
For me, a luxury stay is also about personal connection and Pier One Sydney Harbour rises to the top of the list with their relaxed and professional service standards, perfectly befitting of the boutique luxury-feel of the hotel. Recommended for a weekend getaway or the business traveller who would prefer a more personal luxury hotel experience. FRIDAY
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49sqm, these are reputed to be the largest standard rooms available at any hotel in Sydney. My room offered all the flair and elegance of a Parisian apartment, complete with shuttered French doors opening out onto a spacious terrace balcony with relaxing city park views and historical buildings.
Langham Sydney Hotel 89-113 Kent Street, Miller’s Point, Sydney NSW 2000 Website: www.langhamhotels.com/en/the-langham/sydney/ Located just down the road from my last stopover, the boutique Langham Sydney Hotel offers pleasant city and harbour views. It is situated within a kilometre of many of Sydney’s main attractions and an easy walk to restaurants and Circular Quay. The recently refurbished hotel consists of 98 rooms and suites; all decorated to a superb standard featuring bespoke furnishings and curated artwork by esteemed artists.
I must confess, the luxuriously appointed marble bathroom with its large deep bath was a definite draw-card and heaven sent at midnight after a long day in high heels. I awoke the next morning to glorious sunshine spilling through the shutters and started the day in style with a pot of hot coffee and a fabulous breakfast on the terrace. I will definitely be returning to see more of this lovely hotel, as there was so much more to enjoy. Perfect for anyone wanting a true luxury experience.
I stayed in one of the Grand Langham rooms and at a spacious
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CHRIS IRVING Chef du jour By SASS GLAESNER Portrait shot exclusively for KONCIERGE by James Mills
From tiny downtown Whitehorse on the shores of the Yukon River in Canada’s northwest to Sydney, Australia’s most internationally celebrated and recognizable city. Executive Chef Chris Irving has come a long way in a little over a decade. CHRIS IRVING
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Pulling up a couple of chairs in a quiet corner in the foyer of the Pier One Hotel in Sydney I sit down to chat with Executive Chef of The Gantry Restaurant & Bar just a few days out from the restaurant’s official opening in March. Although relaxed and happy to talk I note that he positions himself to face the room making it clear that he also wants to keep one eye on proceedings, and as his team go about their work I ask Chris to tell me where his interest in food began. Every day after school as a young boy, Chris Irving perched himself on the kitchen bench and watched his grandmother prepare dinner for the family. His mother and father both worked full time, she in finance and he in the family automotive business but thanks to a large extended family, life for the young Chris was a boisterous affair in a home filled with laughter and drenched in the wonderful smells of his grandmother’s home cooking. Irving fondly attributes his early fascination with food to his grandmother Maxine who encouraged his interest in cooking from a young age. From these early experiences in the kitchen his passion steadily grew and as a thirteen year old he successfully planned and cooked his first Thanksgiving Dinner for the family, but Irving’s potential only really became evident after leaving school when he began working in a nightclub. It didn’t take long for an opportunity to
从加拿大西北部育空河畔的小镇Whitehorse,到澳洲最具国际化的大都 市悉尼,十年间,行政总厨Chris Irving走过了不寻常的道路。 距离The Gantry Restaurant & Bar于三月份正式开业之前仅仅几天,我 跟该餐厅的行政总厨Chris Irving,坐在悉尼Pier One酒店大堂安静的角 落,开始了对话。尽管交谈很轻松愉快,我还是注意到他总是面对房间, 关注着他的团队的工作进程。我问他,从哪里开始他对美食感兴趣的,从 而开始了我们的对话。 孩提时代每天放学后,Chris Irving总会趴在在厨房的桌台上,看祖母为全 家准备晚餐。他的父母都在全职工作,母亲做财务,父亲从事家庭汽车生 意。好在这是个大家庭,生活总是热热闹闹的,充满了欢笑,还有祖母烹 饪美食的香味。他的祖母Maxine从小就鼓励他对烹饪的爱好,这令他开 始深深迷恋美食。 从这些厨房里的早期体验开始,他对美食的热情逐渐增长。13岁那年,他 第一次成功地为全家准备了感恩节大餐。从学校毕业,在一家夜总会工作 后,他的潜力才开始爆发。工作没多久机会就来了,在大多数厨师迅速离 职后,没什么经验的他,开始做厨师。他勇于挑战,并很快在3个不同地 区担任餐厅经理。 这次的经验令Irving信心十足,当一位在Relais & Chateaux北美度假村 工作的朋友推荐他加入时,他没有丝毫犹豫,花了三年的时间,沉浸于美
I THRIVE ON COOKING BEAUTIFUL, UNCOMPLICATED, APPROACHABLE FOOD, AND ASPIRE TO MAKE RUSTIC TRADITION RELEVANT TO CONTEMPORARY LIFE. arise and with little to no experience he put his hand up to cook after most of the venue’s chefs had swiftly departed. Irving rose to the challenge and soon found himself in the role of restaurant manager at three different locations. This experience boosted Irving’s confidence and when a friend who was working at a Relais & Chateaux resort in North America suggested he join her, he did so without hesitation spending the next three years learning about the world of fine dining and cuisine, something he had never been exposed to “growing up in the bush near the border to Alaska where a nice meal was having a starter before your steak and potatoes”. Resolving to educate himself, Irving paid his own way through a one-year accelerated course at Dubrulle International Culinary Arts in Vancouver, studying full time and working full time at a restaurant after school hours. Irving admits his real education began after being pushed by his then mentor to “go to London because France was not progressive enough”. Armed with his papers and knives he arrived in London heading immediately to the back door of Gordon Ramsay’s restaurant with all the confidence and naivety of a 22 year old, telling (not asking) them to “give me a job”. The audacious approach paid off and he started the very next day.
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食的世界,令这位“在阿拉斯加边界的丛林中长大,美食就是牛排加土 豆,之前再来个头盘”的乡下孩子,学到了很多以前从不了解的知识。 决定学习后,他在温哥华的Dubrulle国际美食艺术学校参加了为期一年的 快速课程,全职学习,放学后还在一家餐馆全职工作。Irving承认,他真 正的学习始于他的指导老师说的“去伦敦,因为法国不够先进”,对他的 推动。 他来到伦敦,带着推荐信和餐刀,还有22岁满满的自信和天真,径直前往 Gordon Ramsay餐厅后门,告诉(而不是请求哦)他们“给我份工作” 。这种大胆的举动居然成功了,他第二天就开始了工作。 Irving很快发现,获得这份工作很容易,接下来在著名的Pétrus(波尔 多)餐厅Marcus Wareing手下每周六天,每天18小时的工作,才是真 正的剧烈挑战。他回忆道:“真是充满了血汗和泪水啊!”,他承认那时 巨大的工作量和持续不断的压力令他的积极性大受挫折,好多次他都想彻 底放弃。很多老厨师鼓励他,令他不断恢复信心坚持下去。他说非常感激 早期的这段经历,令他不仅成为一名厨师,更学会了做人的道理。作为一 名完美主义者,Irving说在Gordon Ramsay手下工作的那段时间,全世 界最挑剔的课程令他学到了职业生涯最荣耀的品质“永不妥协”。按照 Ramsay说过的话,就是:“如果有疑问闪现,怀疑某事有问题,当然也 有可能没问题。重做!” 两年后,Irving返回加拿大,去实现在温哥华市中心开办自己的餐厅的梦 想。之后源于漂流的愿望,他突然就接受了一份一年的工作合约,在地
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Irving quickly discovered that the easy part was securing the job. What followed was an intensely challenging period of working 18 hours a day, 6 days a week under Marcus Wareing at the famous Pétrus restaurant. Irving recalls “very real blood, sweat and tears” admitting that the workload and unrelenting pressure took an incredible toll in the early days and there were many times he wanted to give it all up. Sheer determination and encouragement from more senior chefs gave him the motivation to stick with it and upon reflection; he admits that he is now incredibly grateful for this early experience as it shaped him not only as a chef but also as a person. As something of a perfectionist, Irving shares that during his time working under Gordon Ramsay, one of the most critical lessons he learned that has served him honorably throughout his career is to “never compromise”. In Ramsay’s words, “if there is a flicker of doubt that something is not right, then it probably isn’t. Start again!” After two years Irving returned to Canada to successfully fulfill a dream of owning his own restaurant in downtown Vancouver before giving in to itchy feet a few years later, accepting an offer from out of the blue to spend a year sailing the Mediterranean on a luxury super yacht as Executive Chef to the late owner of the Arsenal Football Club. It was during his time in the Mediterranean that Irving also fulfilled the prestigious role of trusted chef-consultant to the Spanish Royal Family. In December 2011 the young chef returned to London and back into the Ramsay fold, but this time under very different circumstances as Executive Group Senior Sous Chef. The diversity and creative license this new role offered appealed greatly to Irving, soon seeing him responsible for menu development for the entire Group. It also exposed him to a great deal of variety, working as one of Ramsay’s “trusted right hand men”, culminating in a one-year stint as personal chef to David and Victoria Beckham. After stepping down from his position with the Beckhams and the Ramsay Group he decided once again to strike out on his own. Seemingly never short of opportunities, it wasn’t long before Irving received a call from an Australian chef with whom he had worked at Pétrus in London several years before, asking him to come out to spend time at the Marriott Sukhumvit in Bangkok as a guest chef. After a successful whirlwind round of bespoke dining experiences accompanied by lashings of positive press, he was invited by the Marriott Group to stay on as an Executive Chef. It was only a matter of time before Irving found himself firmly on the radar of the management team at the newly acquired Pier One Sydney Harbour, the first Australian offering in Marriott’s chain of exclusive Autograph Collection hotels. Chris Irving’s food philosophy and vision for the restaurant was very much in alignment with the new owners, and his celebrity profile quickly led to an invitation to visit Sydney to demonstrate the scope of his skills. In September he showcased his work through a marathon selection of 65 dishes for
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中海的一艘阿森纳足球俱乐部拥有的豪华游艇上做行政总厨。在这段时 间,Irving还荣誉出任西班牙皇家厨务顾问。 2011年12月,Irving返回伦敦,重新回归Ramsay团队,这次的工作环境 发生了彻底变化,他担任团队高级行政总厨。新职位给Irving花样丰富的 创意提供了广阔的空间,之后他迅速研发并丰富了整个团队的菜单。这也 揭示了他多样化的风格,以及如Ramsay赞誉的“得力助手”所表现的团 队合作精神。然后他还担任了贝克汉姆夫妇为期一年的私人厨师。 结束了在贝克汉姆家和Ramsay团队的工作后,他再次决定离职。似乎 机遇无处不在,不久就收到了几年前曾与他一起在伦敦波尔多餐厅工 作过的一名澳洲厨师的电话,邀请他去曼谷的Marriott Sukhumvit担 任客座大厨。经过了一系列成功的定制美食盛宴,并被广泛报道赞誉之 后,Marriott集团挽留他担任行政总厨。Pier One悉尼海港大酒店的管 理团队最终找到了他,这是第一份来自澳洲Marriott集团的Autograph Collection连锁酒店的工作邀约。Chris Irving的美食理念和新东家Pier One餐厅的风格非常契合,他的名声也令他迅速获得去悉尼演示技艺的 邀请。九月份,历时两小时,他为12名客人展示了65盘的马拉松式美食 盛宴,他风趣地称之为“精彩纷呈”。从那时起,他就毫无争议地获得 了Pier One悉尼海港大酒店The Gantry餐厅行政总厨的职位。 “澳洲的农产品和海产拥有无可争议的世界级声誉,认真对待每种原材 料,令我激情澎湃地制作出极具地域性、季节性的可持续的特色美食。我 乐于烹饪美观、简单而友善的美食,并渴望为当代生活提供具有传统特色 的质朴美食。” Chris Irving对餐厅有着长远的规划。这次谈话中,他对迄今为止塑造The Gantry餐厅的就餐体验所作出的贡献,感到非常自豪。从菜单研发和员 工制服,到设计改造华丽的鸡尾酒吧,酒吧位于可以纵览Walsh Bay壮丽 美景的酒店大堂,这些他都全程参与。餐厅环境轻松写意,拥有室内70座 及码头60座的就餐场地,使用本地出产的高品质食材和可持续获取的海 鲜,为食客们奉上极具特色的当代美食。对澳洲食材尽善尽美的呈现和尊 重,就是Irving最大的收获。精致的美食,以波光粼粼的悉尼海港和标志 性的悉尼大铁桥为背景,简直就是人间极致的美景。 年仅32岁,Irving就已经表现出卓越的专注、驾驭能力和热情。跟 他谈话后,我相信未来他的事业将更加辉煌。我对这次采访做了总 结,Irving对工作以及如今在Pier One悉尼海港大酒店的职务,毋庸置 疑的热爱,促使我对本期KONCIERGE杂志的主题“花样年华”做出反 思。我请他告诉我们对他而言爱的含义。从这个谨慎的,说话轻声细语 的,外表坚强的男人那里,我没有期待获得非男子汉气质的回应。但我 确实被他充满哲理的精彩回答震惊了,希望读者们也能深入思考:对你 而言,爱到底意味着什么。 “爱,抛弃本能与道德的束缚,无所顾忌、肆意妄为。爱,是一种行为, 而不是一种情绪,看得见、能体验、可展现,有时还会显得自私自利、无 法无天和反复无常。它决定了我们能在何种程度上开放自己,接纳别人进 入自己的生活。”
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twelve people during a two hour sitting, which he fondly recalls, “blew everyone away”. At this point, his appointment as the Executive Chef of The Gantry restaurant at Pier One Sydney Harbour was secured beyond doubt. “Australian agriculture & seafood has an undisputed reputation of being world class and my passion has always been regional, seasonal and sustainable food, with focus on giving respect to individual ingredients. I thrive on cooking beautiful, uncomplicated, approachable food, and aspire to make rustic tradition relevant to contemporary life.” Chris Irving has a long-term vision for the restaurant and it is very clear throughout our conversation that he is justifiably proud of the work he has contributed thus far in shaping The Gantry’s dining experience. From menu development and staff uniforms to the revamping of the spectacular cocktail bar in the foyer of the hotel overlooking Walsh Bay, Irving is across it all. The restaurant, which offers a contemporary menu showcasing quality locally grown ingredients and sustainably sourced seafood in a relaxed, casual setting seats 70 guests inside and 60 on the pier. The beautiful presentation and obvious respect for quality Australian ingredients
makes Irving’s latest labour of love, against the backdrop of Sydney’s sparkling harbour and the iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge, a food loving, Instagrammer’s ultimate dream. At only 32 Irving is an impressive individual who demonstrates an incredible degree of focus, drive and passion and my sense after spending time with him is that he is still a long way from the pinnacle of his career. I conclude the interview with no doubt about the love he has for his work and his current role at Pier One Sydney Harbour prompting me to reflect on the theme of this KONCIERGE issue – “In the Mood for Love”. Anticipating an uncomfortable, if not blokey response from this measured, quietly spoken man with the tough exterior, I ask him to tell us what love means to him. I am delightfully surprised by his thoughtful response and hope this prompts you in turn to ponder what love really means to you. “Love is something that takes every shred of instinct and moral fibre away and replaces it with reckless abandon. Love is an action, not an emotion, seen, experienced and demonstrated and is sometimes selfish, lawless and fickle. Love opens doors, and it is up to ourselves to decide how far we open these doors to allow others to enter into our lives….”
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by Charli Burrowes
THE CANVAS OF LIFE
by Annette Dasey
He makes you look divine, renews your spirit and creates magic while bringing your locks back to life. Along with diamonds, a genius hair stylist is a girl’s best friend. And Mark Rippon – Shu Uemura’s Art of Hair Artistic Master – is one of Australia’s most celebrated. Mark Rippon has 30 years experience as a session stylist, hair director and educator. He trained at the L’Oreal International Academy in Paris, has worked in London, Melbourne and Sydney and has styled the strands of some of the world’s most famous models at shows in Paris. Since 2012, he has devoted his expertise to Shu Uemura’s Art of Hair, which is the newest expression of the famed Japanese beauty brand’s artistic approach to beauty and life. Shu Uemura has revolutionized makeup and is now seeking to do the same through their luxurious range of hair products. Above and beyond Mark’s incredible achievements and skills, his artistic input at Shu Uemura sees him take on the role of a sensory curator, articulating a unique and deeply mystical culture behind the rituals. KONCIERGE sat down with Mark and asked him to decode the power of creativity and the art behind Shu Uemura’s hair philosophy.
他令你焕发光彩,精神振奋,重拾自信。如钻石珠宝一般,一位天才的发 型师就是女孩子们最好的朋友。植村秀Art of Hair艺术大师Mark Rippon 正是澳大利亚最杰出的美发艺术家之一。 Mark Rippon有着30年的美发师、造型师和导师的经验。他曾在巴黎的 欧莱雅国际学院学习,也曾在伦敦、墨尔本和悉尼工作,还曾经在巴黎的 多个时装展中为国际最著名的模特设计造型。自2012年以来,他以丰富 的业内经验投身于植村秀Art of Hair,这个日本著名的彩妆和护肤品牌在 美容和生活领域最新的杰作。植村秀曾彻底变革了彩妆行业,而今他们的 奢华系列美发产品也在改变着美发的趋势和概念。 远远超乎Mark令人惊叹的成就和技巧,他在植村秀不但发挥着艺术创造 力,更重要的是打造感官体验,表达出护理体验背后的特别而极其神秘的 文化。这次专访,我们与你一起走近Mark,了解他非凡创造力的秘诀以 及植村秀美发哲学背后的艺术。 Mark Rippon生活中典型的一天是如何度过的? 通常从浏览我们著名的美发艺术家及合作发廊在社交媒体上的新帖开始, 这会激发我的灵感。按照日程安排会见我们的美发艺术家和合作发廊,并 介绍他们了解植村秀Art of Hair的世界,特别是种种护理仪式和Haigo艺 术技巧,一种涉及混合和分层上色的日本绘画技巧。我们借鉴了这一绘画 技巧,并将其融入到我们有层次地使用产品的过程中。
What is a typical day in the life for Mark Rippon? 什么原因吸引你加入植村秀Art of Hair的?
It begins with a scan of social media posts by our celebrated artists and partner salons, which provides a burst of inspiration. Scheduled appointments see me interacting with our artists and salons introducing them to the Shu Uemura Art of Hair universe, in particular Art of Ceremony Practices and Haigo Artistry, a Japanese
在巴黎时我就爱上了她迷人的故事,这个品牌独一无二的专业发型设计和 护理的定制服务一向将传统和技术结合,亮泽的护法效果令人倾慕。作为 一名充满激情和创造力的发型师,为客户创造无限可能的发型效果激发了 我的灵感。
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painting technique that involves blending and layering with pigments. We have adopted this philosophy with our layering of products. What made you choose to work with Shu Uemura’s Art of Hair? I fell in love with its seductive narratives in Paris. The brand’s bespoke approach to professional hair care and styling is underpinned by traditions and expertise that create radiant, enviable hair. As a passionate and creative stylist, I am inspired by the infinite transformations one can create for clients. Please explain the Art of Hair Beauty Ceremonies. Inspired by the Japanese tea ceremony, they are an unforgettable experience with sublime sensorial elements that rebalance, rejuvenate and beautify. Using innovative tools and Shiatsu-inspired gestures to create a truly unforgettable experience, we prepare the canvas (hair) with rare and precious ingredients. Each tailor-made treatment is designed to restore hair to its ultimate perfect state: healthy, radiant and soft.
请介绍一下Art of Hair的美发护理仪式。 灵感源自日本茶道,那是一种难忘的经历,伴之庄严崇敬的感知元素诸如 重新平衡、恢复青春和美丽。使用的创新工具和灵感源自日式指压按摩的 手势,营造出一种难以忘怀的真实体验。我们用珍贵稀有的材料准备画布 (头发),每一个定制护理都是为了恢复头发最完美状态:健康、亮泽而 柔顺。 哪位典范美人激发了你的灵感? Coco Chanel散发出经典皇家气质的美丽,同时也具有现代感,我热爱 那些经典作品中相互影响的材质和面料。她激发了我的创作灵感,并创作 出注入了历史和时代烙印的充满力量的当代风格的造型。 什么激发你成为一名发型师的? 美发、美容和造型总是令我着迷。我从12岁起开始剪发,我相信这就是我 的命运。看着人们发型改变并带来轻松自信,如魔幻般拨动了我的兴趣。 你的创作灵魂的源泉是什么? 我热爱生命,还有源自时尚、电影、艺术和舞蹈的创作表达方式,我热爱 在海洋和大自然中享受宝贵的时光。这一切点燃了我的灵魂。
Which beauty icon inspires you? Coco Chanel exudes a classic and regal beauty that is still very contemporary. I love the interplay of textures and fabrics in her signature collections. She inspires me to create strong, contemporary looks laced with a fusion of history and era-defining style.
www.shuuemuraartofhair.com
What inspired you to become a hair stylist? I have always been fascinated by hair, beauty and style. I started cutting at age 12. I believe that it was my destiny. The magic of watching people transform propelled my interest as it created confidence and light within them. What feeds your creative soul? I love the canvas of life and the creative expression that is born from fashion, cinema, art, music and dance. I love spending precious time near the ocean and nature. They ignite my soul. www.shuuemuraartofhair.com
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张大华 人生是一幅画
“禅茶一味。”张大华给我斟上一杯茶,在初春的京城,我们坐在一间公 寓改成的画室里。公寓紧邻一个大型商业区,不过室外的喧嚣在这个绘画 艺术的世界里早已消遁。 这位以禅画闻名的画家与我这个门外汉从茶聊起,“茶亦可称之为茶 道。”在张大华看来,多年画画的心路历程,就像品茶一样:“刚泡的 茶,汤色淺淡,略有茶味,需细细地品方能感受到茶的芳香,就像刚出生 的婴儿一样,非常纯净;茶泡至兩遍以後,味道逐漸加重、汤色也亦浓 重,就像我們人生进入中年,生活中有着各種各樣的經歷,有很多酸、 甜、苦、辣、味道,人生的幸福是从苦中过后得来。茶泡至后几道,淡而 有味略有甘甜之感,这是人生中看清自我的过程,远离颠倒梦想,回归自 然之美。最后一道茶,是归零涅槃的过程,也是转换新的开始”。 坐在我面前这位神清气淡的中国禅画艺术家张大华先生,他的画作有着它 独到之处,让人过目难忘。用中国传承的水墨技法来表现他对人生画意, 简约、深邃展示禅画精髓。品茗之后,我开门见山地问:“禅画如何理 解?” 学习做人第一,以人作画第二。“明觉水中行,得道易悟禅。”这是张大 华先生给他的学生们的两句话。禅;是全方位的看待事物,万物中不分彼 此,相互包容,互为转换,生生不息。禅画中有中国易学和道学之理,也 是人生哲学的体现。易以阴阳变化反映宇宙与空间和世界万物的变化,道 就是要一切顺其自然。”张大华说:“一花、一草、一木、一山、一川、 一宇宙都有他的生命所在,无时不在变化,这是自然规律。人也一样;生 命是有时间和空间的,所以无时无刻都在变化。我们应不断努力学习补充
自己,运用生活当中去,让自己生活的有价值有意义。事事在心,心变一 切即变,平常心建德见道,顺其自然,和安吉富。把对事物的理解,用一 种生活禅的方式在绘画中以拟人化的形式表现出来。” 对此,台湾故宫博物院院长冯明珠为张大华的《中国禅画》画集所做序中 有这样的描述:“端看大华先生黑白衣人物系列作品,尽是品茗、对弈、 饮食、烹调、尝鲜、垂钓、打扫、游乐、观赏自然生态等等,正是在日常 生活中修禅具体而微的表现,不必踏破芒鞋,顺手拾来皆是。白衣僧以潇 洒流畅的线条勾勒,黑衣僧以刷笔浓墨渲染,从容数笔,画境呈现,无需 题跋,浅白易懂,孩童能识,却是处处机锋,禅意深浓。先生写雏鸡、老 鼠、游鱼、池蛙、花果,表达了对大自然生机蓬勃而又祥和融洽的赞叹, 或许也正是画者所盼。” 在画室里,一组柜边并排放着几幅禅画。张大华指着其中一幅问我:“你 看船上两人谁在渡谁?”面对这幅有两人在一叶小舟上、景色如世外桃源 的画作,我一时语塞,这是一道需要用心去做的选择题。 “禅是心的表现,一切是由心生。你看画的感觉,其实画在其外心在其 中,是你心的感觉。”张大华笑道,“禅画用水墨着色。黑白就是阴阳, 画在阴阳之中,所以它无喜、无忧。看似墨重,其实是轻,看似留白很 多,其实万物在心。眼观心静让自己的心放下,方是禅画的本意。” 二十多年来,通过在国内外举办画展以及交流活动,张大华把中国文化 的精神传播到世界。2009年,美国总统奥巴马访问中国前期,受国家特 邀,张大华为其创作作品《对弈》,作为中国国礼送给奥巴马先生。在张 大华的画室里,保留着一张美国纽约时代广场的照片,这是2012年7月至 9月《大华禅画宣传片》作为中国文化形象推广,在纽约时代广场的大屏
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幕上滚动播放的情景。
大我。这个大我也就是无我,是认识事物的本真,与自然融为一体。”
2008年,受山东邹城文物局慕名委托,张大华为铁山摩崖刻经拓片单字 配作禅画。这是项艰巨工程,通过一幅画解读一个字,距今1500年的摩 崖刻经的单字大小有半米。5年后,“大华禅画——跨越千年的艺术对 话”画展在北京举行。如今,原定6年完成“艺术对话”工作仍在继续。
张大华作画特点是所用毛笔杆长、毛锋长的羊毫笔。羊毫很软吸水力强, 不过画作中的线条要达到力透纸背的效果,需要画家用气和意念运笔, 这靠的是多年功力。对于他的学生而言,单是用长锋笔画好线就要练多 年。“我把禅的精神告诉他们。禅就是做人悟道,技法是术可以慢慢掌 握,但精神更难学。” 张大华说。
为何为如此之难?在欣赏一幅 提了出来。
“观如来”三字的大型画作时,我把疑问 盛名之下的张大华并没有把自己当作知名画家,而是将自己作为一个普通 人,以平常心看待平常事,自在地生活。他有时会在微信朋友圈里发些亲 手制作的诗画并茂的微信与大家分享,而且总不忘送上感恩与祝福的话。 他曾在一条微信中放了张摩崖刻经“心”字配禅画的图片,并@某位朋友 这句话:生活,没有模板,只需心灯一盏。
“观如来三个字,观是用眼看,如来是什么?”张大华反问。 “是佛。”我答道。 “不是,你没想字本身的意思,而是想到佛教,这是一种误导。如,好 像,似有似无;来,是来到。观如来,就是好像来到了,是用心去看。 你再看看画是不是这个意思?” 张大华说每幅画都是对人生悟的一种解 读,“心有多大,表现就有多大。作画过程中,没有小我,永远只有一个
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Maggie Wang/文
KONCIERGE
人生是一幅画
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