FW2021
DISSE M BLE EVE N THOUGH
E N G L IS H
it hurts
KOOSS Magazine 02 Print edition -- - - 00-09-2020
Print edition -- -- 00,09,2020
iSSUe 02 www.koossmagazine.com
CEO
Manuel Sanchdell & Judith Moreno
Desde
2016
EDITOR Manuel Sanchdell
EDITORIAL STAFF
María Muñoz - Cristina Sardón - Alexandra Xanló - Ana Pérez Ana Laura Oliveira - Marta MaroTo - Hristiyana Ivova - Rebeca Domenech Marta Alberca - Iris Mogollón - Paola González - Nuria Bernardos
TRADUCTION
Camila Belén Hilale Paola Giordani
COLLABORATED Samretouch
www.samretouch.com
Contact info@koossmagazine.com
THANKS
Nuria Sánchez Susana Montilla
@KOOSSMAGAZINE
KO O S S M A G A Z I N E
ILLUSTRATION - - - BY Ana Regina
samretouch POST PRODUCTION IMAGE www.sam retouch.com
samretouch www.sam retouch.com
ONLINE
www.koossmagazine.com
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ONLINE
Escribo versos para destrozar palabras que jodieron mi estancia en el balcón de tus pestañas. Que cada lágrima se haga poema para que riegue de poesía tus mejillas sonrojadas. Hablar de éxito es hablar de volar sobre tu mismo ego escupiendo corazones desde el sol explotando contra el cielo. Busqué la libertad encerrando a mis mil pájaros con mis mil doscientos miedos, lucharon hasta morir, ¿y quién ganó? mis dos mil doscientos retos. Las flores de mi arcoíris están viviendo una película de color en blanco y negro, sueño realidad con pinceladas de amor y sexo en una pildorita mojadita en el veneno caducado por los celos. Creo por crearme, inventar para inventarme, las metáforas de tu envidia al tocarme se convierten en café para activarme. Dar paz entre fusiles de palabras, pido dos manos de perdones, un abrazo en la distancia, los amigos siempre están y no por no hablar se marchan. el corazón como baúl de recuerdos que me calman y te calman, ábrelo cuando me hagas, te haga falta. Siempre estaré para el que supo abrazar sin pedir nada por ayudarme a nadar en esta pecera de pirañas folclóricas que amenazan y no muerden por miedo a tener un poco de
MAGIA @MANUE LSANCH DE LL
A
fter trying to remain true to myself and fighting fears, I must say that I am in seventh heaven about being able to continue with this project. What a bizarre year! It resembles a straight fight between fiction and reality. Mistakes and cutting remarks have been my mentors. I know that I might lose some things on the way and I am afraid to think about it, but I guess everything will eventually fall into place. I cannot carry the weight of others nor will I feel guilty for wanting to live my life in my own way. I am not one of the big fish of this sector, I am here by chance, curiosity has led my way as well as it has led the way of others; at first glance, it seemed like a walk in the park but we all have left a mess behind. I am always throwing others (and even myself) for a loop for the only thing I want is to give the best of me to build and to create for the sake of having fun since I take a dim view of competitiveness. This issue is a reflection of my heart’s desire that has been possible by dint of a committed team of editors who have made this dream come true. I wanted to publish it and I saw thousands of flaws that I loved…, haven’t those flaws fallen perfectly into place? It’s all set! The magazine has not yet beared fruit. It’s not profitable, I produce this magazine from a corner of my house, I work on it till the clock strikes eleven, that is when I watch some show or a movie on Netflix. To run this project is a hefty task and sometimes chaos burns me out to the point that I unintentionally overlook some things. I am sorry. I would like to finish by saying that this year will be a pain in the ass for all of us, surrounded by others or alone, in Bali or in Madrid, employed or unemployed; we are all going through something…, as I would say a bloody hard situation. Now, more than ever, should we consume art, watch plays and films and listen to music for they are the only things that really give us life.
Let art fill you up to the point you bring up your best self.
Manuel Sanchdell CEO KOOSS MAGAZINE
APE RITIVO
TANIA
MAFILITO
ANA REGINA
I believe that design is a tool for comunicating
I’m inspired by love, nature, fashion and women
FEDERICA BUCCI
Many people draw conclusions from what my work is like, most of it is described as fetishistic or erotic
CARLA LÓPEZ ART
MAKSIM SAMSONOV Creating magic stories
RICHARD RAMOS
BAKER
Intimist magnetism
“you sense beauty, you feel it in your bones”
4 photographers Shoot one model
Enjoy the experience of four different shootings and only one model
Tania Mafilito I’m Tania Mafilito, I’m 25 years old and I was born in Maracaibo – Venezuela. Since I was a little girl, I’ve been attracted to art in all its shapes. I studied Social Communications with a Minor in Audiovisual Studies at Universidad Rafael Belloso Chacín, in Maracaibo, where I learnt about photography, films, television, radio and much more. I’ve been modelling since I was 16, and at the moment I’m teaching modelling and creative movement lessons through my online platform: @modelupgeneration. I have always loved painting and it was my
I really like to express myself, I paint whatever I feel in the moment, sadness, love, joy, nostalgia, etc… For that reason, my artworks can urged people to feel differently every time, but they will always be made out of the same essence. I mostly paint women, characters of my imagination. I like to depict them in different scenarios expressing diverse emotions. I’m fascinated with eyes because I believe they say a lot, they represent honesty, it only takes one look to know it all. My goal is to inspire many people with art through love, but most of all, to inspire lots of women that, even now, are holding back their feelings for fear of what people may say. Feeling is a natural emotion, crying, loving, missing, all of them are natural emotions. A sad woman is not less of woman for feeling like that but a woman who is not afraid of expressing her emotions has hit a home run.
mother who taught me. Although she was a doctor, she was able to create wonderful things with her hands. She passed away from cancer, two years ago, and I dare say it was due to her being extremely reluctant to express he feelings… Once she was gone, I understood that you have to live life to the fullest, you have to do what you love and enjoy everything even the simple things in life, and that you have to do it lovingly and passionately. Life, love, nature, fashion, and women inspire me. I grew up surrounded by powerful women and I learnt a lot from them.
---- ---- - --- -- --- -- -THERE’S NO TOMORROW
@INSTATANIAM
@joanarealm
F
Joana Real
ash ion stylist. 31 YEARS OLD Madri d SI NCE 2014. I love those people who dress up the way they like to. I don’t believe that people is just well- dressed or not; to dress up means expressing an idea, an intention and your personality above all. For me, that is styling and that is how I work with it. I tell a story through each different look I create and, at the same time, I express a little bit of myself. It is essential that, for each of my assignments, I make my own mood board. What I need is one picture that reflects the main idea of the project in order to embrace it and make it mine. My major inspirations are people, streets, video clips and all-time films. I never look for inspiration by itself; it just comes to me. Suddenly, I see something, a unique detail that catches my attention and, automatically, I play with it in my mind, I give it a twist and I think about how to use it, how to adapt it, where it could fit in‌
MAGIC makeup
A
s far back as I can remember, art has been my calling. I have always wanted to be an artist and I used to spend most of the time with pencil and paper in hand rather than with Bratz dolls, which, by the way, were piling up in my toy trunk. I got my degree in Visual Arts and majored in Painting and Photography. I became a visual artist but, some time ago, while I was chatting with my friend Damian Perea, film director, we came to the conclusion that when you are a multi-disciplinary individual, your main need is that of expressing and communicating, regardless of the way in which the message is presented: paintings, photographs, acting performances, or makeup creations. The neo renaissance of the artist is happening now, thus artists should now be regarded as creative artists.  Over the past few years, I grew fond of Instagram for alternative fashion and lifestyle interests. Despite the fact that I sometimes shared some content related to artistic makeup in the app, quarantine season got me out of my comfort zone and reinforced my relationship with makeup; taking into account that makeup was the only artistic resource left for me. In addition, Covid-19 made our homes a sanctuary and made us all reconsidered who we are; and all of this created a sort of bridge between the adrenalin triggered by the outcome of an artistic creation and the feedback from the people who were also spending time in their homes. Artistic entertainment is now playing a central role for all, both providers – of a service – and consumers (irrespective of what some politicians say). Definitely, we would have gone crazy without art, music, and audiovisuals.
Moreover, regardless of quarantine, for many people, including me, makeup talks about the identity of a person. Of course, makeup may be something that you play with or a means by which we transform ourselves. But, just to give an example, it is impossible to imagine Cleopatra without her distinctive outlined eyes or to strip cultural and symbolic notions off the African tribal makeup or off the makeup used by Geishas, etc. By wearing makeup we tell the world who we are. What I have been writing about in this article intertwines with my artwork. I have been trying a different approach and I have decided to focus my work on the investigation of makeup as an identity. Now, I am developing a collection of oil paintings thus reflecting all these notions. Although my main goal in life is to create artworks or to work with an art gallery, I am not ruling out the chance of becoming a professional makeup artist, not because of social media networks but because it is something that I enjoy doing.
@carlalopezart
Carla Lรณpez
Nace
styloso
Stylist Victor Blanco's project to de mocratize fash ion
At a very young age, only 18, Victor Blanco clearly knew that fashion was the object of his passion and that the fashion styling profession was the perfect choice for him. Blanco was born in Barcelona and, nowadays, he is known as the fashion stylist of celebrities. Aitana, Éster Expósito, Nieves Álvarez, Nicole Kimpel and Jon Kortajarena are some of the celebrities he has already styled. After many years working in Spain, more than 3 years studying in The United States (Los Angeles) and nearly 15 years walking this career path that took him to some of the greatest red carpets in the world (Goya and Oscar awards, Cannes and Venice film festivals), Victor has come up with a clear definition of success: “live from what you love, from what you are passionate about, from what makes you dream.” Some weeks ago, in the middle
@VICTORBLANCOSTUDIO of this covid-19 crisis, Blanco shared through social networks that the idea of having his own project was coming to life. And that is how Styloso emerged. From now on, all of us will be given the chance for him to do us the perfect makeover and to find our best selves. He will no longer be a celebrities- only stylist. “We want to reach each and every corner of the internet from any and all parts of the world so that we can make people dream about what they want and help them feel much better.” The main goal of this innovative project is to democratize fashion with the aim that all people have the same opportunities. Styloso will be on a day-to-day basis with those who are looking forward to enjoying fashion and improving their style. What to spend money on, how to create a perfect closet, how to recycle items of clothing you no longer know what to do with are all questions which will be answered by this fashion lover. “We also offer a 2-hour- long master class in which I share my knowledge, tricks and anecdotes that can be of interest, so that my clients can enter into the world of fashion”, Victor adds.
Victor Blanco By Rebeca Domènech
Blanco explains that there is no other project like Styloso in the market and that it actually does not offer personal shopper services. “I have my job and my career. This is just a little help for all those who have been meaning to feel better and happier enjoying fashion and spending on what they really need,” a task that, as Victor says, is greatly important nowadays.
T N Nai ha J Laiz W E hen I am required to spell out a biography of my life for a presentation, I always feel naked. I think about my whole life and all the things I’ve experienced because I am more than just a resume; I am a mixture of life lessons, decisions and experiences through which I define myself time and again. I am an actress and my relationship with art results from my connection with nature. I constantly turn to nature while being deep into a creative process and if it is surrounded by mountains all the better for I grew up climbing cliffs. I chose to be an actress without my even noticing it, in my early childhood while jumping on my bed and reading aloud texts. Cupid’s arrow pierced me one afternoon, still a child, when my grandmother on the part of my mother took me to the Teatro Arriaga (a theatre) to see “Bodas de Sangre” (Blood Wedding). I felt alive the moment I saw the actors on the stage and that was when I understood that I had to induce that same feeling in others. When I was 13 years old, I began taking drama lessons in Bilbao, the city where I was born. Since then, my commitment with acting has focused on gratitude and on expanding the minds and the world of those who see
my work. This may seem like a broad idea rather than a detailed one yet it is quite simple: if someone from the crowd leaves the room (of the play or of the film) with a new question to ask him or herself about life, that is when my work makes sense. For many years the art of drama offered me love and let me grow but then one day, the cinema entered my life and it definitely came to stay. I have been lucky enough to go all over the many sceneries of major cities, visit parks in small villages and participate in a wide variety of movie shootings with different budgets. When I am not in front of a camera or on stage, I put pen to paper and I continue creating new characters. I have learnt to write even before I learnt to draw because, for me, writing – as well as acting – is much more than putting words together or interpreting characters: it means creating life through stories. Every day, I discover new aspects of humanity thanks to art, and I polish my relationship with art by diving into the depths of humanity. I was taught to be “normal” but normal does not exist… in the house I grew in, I still come and go through the windows. Doors, what do I need them for? www.nahialaiz.es @nahialaiz
TODO LO QUE NO NOS DIJE RON QUE E RA LA MOd What we didn’t know
K
about F A S H I O N
illing Eve” premiered and is back for a third season. This is a thriller in which Villanelle – Jodie Comer – is a hitwoman with an impeccable sense of style and who is chased down by an MI6 investigator. The show is built around a cat-and-mouse thriller between the two women in the leading roles, but at the same time, there is a parallel cat-and-mouse tale between Villanelle and fashion, however, in this case, they both win. Of course, the show´s success is due to an enclosed hero: fashion. Nonetheless, this hit is twofold. What’s more, Villanelle has lead fashion to success. Not only has her character had an impact on the media and on the economy but also on matters beyond appreciation. A hitwoman who is afforded to kill wearing Dries Van Noten says a lot more than that being a killer is profitable. This villain crashes the clichés of masculinity and, even of femininity, without the need of wearing heels to feel more like a woman and, strangely absurd, without leaving behind her eccentric and versatile fashion
style that sets aside gender standards; Standards created by Villanelle´s profession as a hitwoman – if we consider that a profession-. After following the steps of impossible and stereotyped muses, we could write a list explaining why Killing Eve´s villain has become a more real and contemporary role model. Before Villanelle, Blair Waldorf had already taught us what rules to follow in order to turn into a femme fatale. Carrie Bradshaw made us dream about becoming successful writers; For we all know that writing a weekly column in a newspaper provides us with enough money to pay rent in Manhattan and to have a dreamed closet and a couple of Chanel bags. From them we learnt that fashion was a luxury, and that it meant power. On the other hand, Villanelle teaches us that fashion is not only for successful and elegant women. This villain has made fashion evolve towards a social reality that strongly represents women today: real and independent.
Villanelle’s character plays around with established gender standards up to the point of tearing them down. In most of the scenes, Villanelle wears emerging designers who are slightly known. She is a leading light for up-and-coming designers like Molly Goddard, known for the fuchsia organza dress that Villanelle wears in one of her psychiatric evaluations, Dice Kayek that hit the headlines for the sober, metallic blue pant suit and, The Vampire’s Wife that named a dress after the villain. Even when speaking about love, Villanelle falls in love with a woman, and by doing that she tears down the out- of- date concept of a fashion lover. No questions ask, the best thing that Villanelle has taught us it that fashion has nothing to do with restrictions nor personality. Such mission is in our hands and that is just wonderful. By MarTa MaroTo
Laughter
revolution
rom laughs tracks to experimental genres Sitcoms are TV shows well known for its briefness, 30 minutes per episode, and for its comedic touch that allows them to skip the rules of storyline coherence and topic maintenance. Comedies have always been less appreciated than drama or horror storylines, which generally received most of the awards granted by the critics, pigeonholing comedies as just a source of entertainment rather than recognition. However, since the 90’s, some sitcoms have been able to leave a longlasting footprint in pop culture, even to this day. ‘Friends’ with its popular canned laughter and ‘The Office’ with its consistent breaking of the fourth wall are the top touchstone shows of this category. These shows prove to be the exception to the rule in the way in which things were being carried out in the industry. These shows’ success is now the starting point for other TV shows that are also currently popular around the world: ‘The Big Bang Theory’ with its nerdiness and ‘Modern Family’ with its every day nature. Experimenting and keeping fingers crossed Over the last decade, with the arrival of streaming services and lofty productions of the “new tv industry”, which brought series such as ‘Game Of Thrones’ and ‘Breaking Bad’ to the very top, sarcasm as a TV genre has been standing at a crossroads. And the only ace up its sleeve was innovation with just two possible outcomes: failure or success. Fortunately, the renewal of the genre was widely embraced by the audience to such a degree that storylines have been broadening and merging even with other categories of TV shows that suit every taste.
By MarTa Alberca
F
Cartoon shows for adults There are more shows than just ‘The Simpsons’. Censorship is a notion from the past and foul language is on the agenda of every show of the kind: ‘Rick and Morty’ and ‘Bojack Horseman’ are the critics’ pick, the latter being awarded several Emmys. Merging multiple categories of TV shows in one, at first glance, doesn’t seem adequate. However, a good script and the right amount of sarcasm can do the trick. Famous examples are ‘The Good Place’, in which life-lessons align with absurd ideas and events, and ‘What We Do in the Shadows’ in which the classic fear of vampires fuses with a kind of documentary that resembles that of Michael Scott in ‘The Office’, and in which vampires try to conquer the “new world” in a Transylvanian-like style. The highs and lows of love Comedies have always brought with them unforgettable love stories and they have suffered great changes too, leaving a mess behind: successful ‘Fleabag’ breaks the fourth wall again and shows an unstable protagonist with a striking humour. In ‘Crazy ExGirlfriend’ we come across a crazy protagonist tangled with a no-ending musical that is a breath of fresh air. And last but not least, ‘Dead to me’ bets on dark humour and on a loving friendship that bends over backwards to survive even whit death surrounding the leading characters.
J
orge Stasny
Advertising director and lucky for us, plastic artist. Who’s behind the canvas: the advertising director or the plastic artist?
There’s really a playful boy who grew up poor in a rich neighbourhood, a redhead in a country full of dark people, an atheist in a school of nuns and a dyslexic in the career of philosophy. I feel that there is in me an inner world that has been difficult to verbalise, and the way that I found to express myself has been through my hands and images. I have always felt more observant than interlocutor in all situations of my life. I have worked on dozens of implausible and seemingly unrelated works, but all of them have given me the ability to be a sponge, absorbing everything that was going on around me. The canvas is for me a mirror where I try to recognise and understand myself. As a plastic artist I feel that I work with the most irrational part of my being, while as a publicist I work with my most rational side.
You define your style as a mix of pop and ethnic. It’s clear, when looking at your work, that it fits perfectly on a graffiti wall of some city, or reproduced massively on t-shirts. You move the urban to the canvas but, why precisely the canvas? What is your artistic proposal and what are the limits of it?
For a long time I painted on wooden supports that I found in the street: doors, shutters, tables and boxes. But after moving several times this method was no longer a handy option. The canvas was presented as a lighter option. I have to say that my first contact with a large canvas, all white, gave me a lot of respect. Canvases aren’t cheap and it “didn’t matter” anymore if there were mistakes. Luckily, I quickly got rid of this barrier to creative freedom and treated the canvas like a folio. If you look at my work there are many pencil marks that do not cease to be the recognition of our faults and doubts. Both are part of the game, the value is to acknowledge them and move on. Painting on large format canvases has something that makes us transcend space. The feeling is the loss of contact with your surroundings and the immersion in the work/painting.
ficado, esta traducción, será diferente cada vez.
By using painting as a mnemonic method, you compress in each painting a story and, therefore, in each icon, a concept. This leaves us with an interesting question regarding memory; if memory is imperfect, and from each painting we must extract meaning through the word, we understand that this meaning, this translation, will be different every time. As an artist how do you cope with this problem ? How do you reconcile the icon, the word and the memory to make your work complete? Can we completely put aside words? Since I was a kid I’ve used the mnemonic method without knowing what it was. I had difficulties learning in the same way as my classmates / I couldn’t learn the same way as my classmates . Today I would have been certainly diagnosed with TEL (Specific Language Disorder). People with this disorder have great difficulty memoizing everything that are sequences; for example, the months of the year or even the days of the week were a headache for me, without even mention the alphabet. My love for ethnic iconography, for the symbolism of classical painting and pop art comes from this ability to hide behind each image a concept associated with it. I drew right next to the texts to remember the concepts. It is clear that if you want to understand each of my creations you should know the associations between the symbols and their meanings, which is almost impossible. Regarding the previous question, in 1968 Roland Barthes, a French philosopher and semiotic, announced the death of the author. Extrapolating this into the world of art, its up to the public / viewer to interpret the piece in front of him and yet, when we come across some pieces of exhibited in Synkretismos, it is extremely difficult for us to extract its meaning from it. A context and an explanation is necessary in order to understand and enjoy each painting.
What do you think the role of the artist represent in the 21st century regarding his work, his spectators, and his critics?
From my own experience, I’ve never felt like an author, but more like an instrument or a vehicle. I believe that there’s something that transcend us; it could be either our unconscious or our collective unconscious that takes control over us and use us to manifest itself. We tend to believe that we are the owners and creators but we’re just simple executors. The merit of the author resides, in my opinion, more in the fact of the action and the concretion than in the content. It depends on how connected we are, the technique or the sensibility that we have in order to be better or worse reproducers of what really exceeds us. In my case, it’s difficult to explain where these representations come from, or even repeat them.
By Ana Laura Oliveira
Si te fijas en mis obras hay muchas marcas de lápiz que no dejan de ser la constatación y reconocimiento a nuestros fallos y dudas. Ambos forman parte del juego, el valor es asumirlos y seguir. Pintar en lienzos de gran formato tiene algo que nos hace trascender el espacio. La sensación es de pérdida de contacto con el entorno y de sumergirse en la obra. Al utilizar la pintura como método nemotécnico, condensas en cada cuadro una historia y, a su vez, en cada icono, un concepto. Esto nos deja una incógnita interesante respecto a la memoria; si la memoria es imperfecta, y de cada cuadro debemos extraer
significado mediante la palabra, entendemos que este signi-
I believe that we are in a period of time where the narrative isn’t the most important thing, and we’re more moved by emotions and feelings. Our capacity to paid attention has been reduce drastically and our impulses have to make us vibrate within milliseconds. The new, the authentic, breaks with the scholastic tradition and today life is crying out for us to be ourselves. People who fight in order to defend their identity, end up polishing the diamond that each of us is. When you censor yourself, wondering if what you are doing is good or bad, you are no longer a good vehicle for art.
Your work is distinguished by its characteristic use of colour: solid and bright blocks, always in constant contrast. However, one of your exhibited works presents a more monochrome view of the world. It’s “On the other side”, where you only use two colours. Could you tell us the reason for this change?
I usually paint with my headphones on, while listening to loud music. Its one of the strategies that I use to distract the rational part of my brain, in order to let the irrational part take control. Probably, when I painted this, I was going through some kind of emotion or
listening to something different. I suddenly saw myself from the other side and I decide to let go. Immediately, I heard that little voice that we all hear, the same one that Walt Disney represented so well, the little red devil on our shoulder next to our ears, that’s telling us “You sure? Do you think that these changes are good?” It’s up to us to listen and understand this voice, but not to obey it. Even thought my paintings are full of representations that are difficult to understand, what we see on them we can easily recognise it as a part of our culture, however, “On the other side” there’s something weird, we situate ourselves in a world with more magic.
Going more deeper into your work, one of your paintings, “El tío Aga” has a really interesting story behind it, would you care to share it with our readers?
The truth is that some of my paintings begin with a concept that eventually improves itself with elements that I didn’t consider at first. In this case, the story of Uncle Kelp was born while I was surfing with one of my sons: for a moment he was afraid of sea because there were too many seaweeds. It occurred to me to tell him a story about a surfer made out of seaweed that lives at the bottom of the sea and who ates way too much carrots just like my son does. He was the lifeguard of the beach and surfed better than anyone else. People
loved him so much that they name him Uncle Kelp. I told my son that every time he sees seaweeds in the ocean, Uncle Kelp would be there to take care of us. It actually worked for a couple of years. In my work you can also see my NY cap, a Mickey Mouse made out of skull, which is a symbol of a starving capitalist system.
Many artists had confessed the lack of motivation and inspiration during the confinement/ quarantine. ¿ As an artist, how have you survived the last couple of months?
I have felt an uncontrolled energy. According to many astrologists, that’s the moment when we are being loyal to ourselves. The value of living the moment (being present in the here and now) has gone from being a concept that has always been on my mind to becoming a daily routine. I have been able to create a lot of work and be very focused on it. It is curious that most of the times we need to feel in danger in order to learn how to live. Above all, I have managed to remove the barriers that we tend to put to ourselves in fear of failure, trusting deeply that the universe is abundance and that we must open ourselves to it.
What has been your source of inspiration during these past couple of days ?
I have soaked up the culture of the 80s in the US, the origin of hip hop and the struggle of the trans community with documentary series such as Hip Hop Evolution, The Defiant Ones or Marsha. These documentary series are full of characters who fight against a whole system that rejects and mistreats them. Every step they take to defend their rights and identity and that of their own makes their whole being shine and come to the essence of themselves, becoming authentic characters. Intense lives with a meaning. I’ve heard a lot of hip hop from both the East. Coast and the West Coast, but I’ve also been joined by Bejo, Locoplaya and Kase O.
What are your plans for the future? ¿Any interesting project that you can share with us?
As you pointed out before, my work has a clear potential to be used for a thousand applications and there is a path still to explore. The next challenge that I have in mind is to bring my characters into the world of Toy and possibly next year I will have produced a series.
On June 18th Jorge Stasny (Madrid, 1974) both plastic artist and advertising director, presented “Synkretismos” at La Plataforma, a gallery in Barcelona. “Synkretismos” opens a gap between urban pop and ethnic iconography, and seeks to reduce the proliferation of images, information and memories to icons.
@JORGE_STASNY
Maksi m
Hey. I am Maksim Samsonov from Russia. I am a Fashion Photographer and Ambassador of the Fujifilm Company. My photos can be found in many magazines around the world, at exhibitions in Russia. Today I will talk about how I started and how I came to the world of fashion. Among my works are many interesting commercial and creative projects. These are advertising campaigns for Sisley, United Colors of Benetton, Mango and other clothing stores in Russia. I love making music album covers for Apple Music and Google Music and even videoclips. Collaboration with creative people always produces a very cool result. Recently, I like to shoot for magazines and do something very atypical. Photography is my passion, my love, my life. After all, photography opens up a limitless world of perfection, beauty and harmony. I fell in love with photography as a child when I was leafing through family albums. The magic of black and white photography fascinated me. I remember how I found two Soviet film cameras in my father. I did not know how they are arranged and worked. I was simply attracted by interesting lines and shiny wheels. Then I was about 6-7 years old. Maybe I was even younger. I remember ruining a bunch of film and photo paper. I was interested to see how they change in the sunlight. Of course, then my parents were not thrilled. Now I think they are happy, because I am doing one of the best things in this world - photography. I bought my first camera when I was still a student. I remember saving, putting off a scholarship and waiting for a treasured trip to the store. I remember how every day I looked at the shop window and waited for this magical moment. And finally I bought it. My
first Soviet film camera Zenit. It was something like my today’s Fujifilm camera. I remember how I inserted my first film into the camera, made a background from sheets and photographed my sisters. I was lucky to be born in a large family, I have four sisters. It was a great time, my first emotions from photography. Awesome. I can’t believe it, because it was almost 20 years ago. I started commercial photography in 2012 when I bought the first digital SLR camera. At first, I shooting absolutely everything. It was hard to find your style. I shot ordinary people in the studio or on the street, photographed while traveling to other countries, tried myself in subject and even wedding photography. I was lucky one day. In 2015, I drove half of Russia to rent a wedding with very unusual newlyweds. The groom was dressed very stylishly. He was wearing a suit from Calvin Klein of an interesting cut. The bride had a handmade linen dress. Each element of the pattern on the dress was manually embroidered by someone. It was very beautiful. Thanks to the clothes, this wedding was not like any other. I was inspired. When I returned home and showed someone my photographs, they told me that the pictures were not like wedding ones. They look like an advertisement for clothing from a magazine. Imagine, I have been looking for my genre in photography for so long, and someone just needed
to look at a few of my photos once and say that I need to go to fashion photography. And so I did. My sister Daria Samsonova then worked at United Colors of Benetton and Sisley. She went to fashion shows in Italy. Once the Benetton store needed to make an advertisement for clothes and Daria offered me. It was my first fashion shoot. I was very worried and prepared for several weeks. I made mood boards, found a location to shoot and put together a team. Daria worked on the style. She carefully selected each element in total look. And we did it. It was a very cool photoshoot. A few days later we were offered to shoot a new Sisley collection in Russia. We brought a
lot of mannequins and transparent film. They scattered all this on a white floor and put a model in Sisley clothes among the mannequins and wrapped model in film. This photoshoot was even cooler. This is how I discovered the way to the world of Fashion photography. From the very first day, I wanted to create something unusual. And since then, Daria Samsonova and I began to generate unique ideas and constantly experiment. With my own hands, every time I create some elements for shooting. For example, for this Kooss Magazine issue, I cut openings on the mannequin for the arms, head, and body. Then I tore off the handle and straps from the old suitcase, attached them to the mannequin. It so happened that it can be both a corset, a suitcase and a backpack. This is crazy idea. By the way, the holder for the mouth symbolizes an important message for the whole world. Today it is important to have a voice, it is important to be heard, which is why the model’s mouth is so wide open. I believe that the idea in photography is one of the most important. Once we used medical cans, which we glued to the model’s body, and an aquarium, which we put on the head. In another photoshoot, I pasted the face shield with glass stones. In another photoshoot, we stuck dried flowers on our face with petroleum jelly. And when we were shooting the cover for a music album for one artist, we smeared his whole face with strawberry jam, jam and intimate lubricant mixed with red makeup. Every time we come up with something unique. A new shoot is a new idea. This is our main rule. Thanks to the ideas, my works are interesting to people on the other side of the world. So I lived and shooting in China for several months last year. Thanks to my style in photography, together with Fujifilm, we conduct master classes in Russia and other countries. I want to say a big thank you to the Kooss Magazine team for the great opportunity to talk about my photo. I also want to thank my family. I have two beautiful daughters and a beautiful wife with whom we have our own brand of clothing. Thanks to my team for always being with me. To stylist Daria Samsonova for ideas and stylization on the set, make-up artist Elena Zamorina for excellent work, model Elena Svyazhikova for amazing mood in the frame. And of course everyone we work with.
@maksi msamsonov
Photograph e r Maksi m Samsonov
Stylist Daria Samsonova
Makeup artist E le na Zamori na
Mode l E le na Svyazh i kova
Sticke r artist Vale riya Saln i kova
Wh e n your makeup
turns
i nto
worst n ightmare your
By Hristiyana Ivova
T
he lipstick you found in that bag you almost never wear is not a 5€ note. And that eyeshadow palette that you were given a couple of years ago… well, you should steer clear of that. Pimples, blackheads, rosy cheeks, eczema, conjunctivitis… Probably, you won’t find the answer to these problems buying creams and ointments at the chemist store but you may find it by throwing away all the makeup products you have at home. On average, any kind of beauty product lasts for, approximately, 12 months. But, honestly, the more water a product has, the more likely that product is to be infected with bacteria and fungi and, of course, to go bad. Nonetheless, powder makeup can go on for more than two years if kept in the fridge. So here it is! A detailed list on how to choose, buy and preserve every basic makeup product for your daily routine. We get ahead and tell you that this is a paraben-free list, as it has been reported in many studies that it is a carcinogenic component. However, products containing parabens are very cheap and widely used in cosmetics.
Li psticks
The one that has your back when feeling bold. The one that can turn any dull look into a classy one by just putting it on. The one that highlights or softens your features. That is why we’ve got lots of them and in every color. It is impossible to run out of them in just one year.
How to choose a lipstick
Avoid the ones containing silicones and bet on the ones that have essential oils. The latter tend to break down a bit faster and they are more expensive but they are free from carcinogenic components, they are eco-friendly and they match your skin’s needs.
How to preserve a lipstick
First and foremost, it is essential that you know this makeup product is one that could easily get you into the jam. Therefore, whenever we use it, it is extremely advisable to use a lip spatula to apply the lipstick on and then use your fingers or a brush to spread it. Moreover, unless it is really hot outside, lipsticks should be store in a cool, dry place. How to know when to get rid of a lipstick It is not necessary to own lipsticks in every color. It is enough to own just some shades that mostly contain natural components. As we have mentioned before, these lipsticks last much less than the others but at least, they are safe enough to lick your lips without being at risk of eating petroleum. So, the less natural components the lipstick has, the more it will last (and the less it will cost, probably) thus, unless the lipstick changes in texture or taste, it can last for up to three years.
MASCARA
It stands to reason that mascara dries up before it seems right to us. But it is not quite like that. This product generally lasts up to six months. This is due to the fact that mascaras are largely made up of water and to the fact that this product is meant to be applied in your eyes and eyes are a very delicate body part which tend to become infected.
How to choose mascara
Generally speaking, even expensive mascaras are made up of wax and natural and synthetic oils such as Retinyl acetate or other aluminum derivatives and petroleum that at first provide good results but, in the long run, not only do they damage your eyelashes but also your health. In turn, try looking for mascaras made up of collagen, castor oil, keratin, etc.
How to preserve mascara
What you must know is that air is public enemy number one of mascaras, so you’d better use it cautiously in order to prevent them from drying out; and don’t forget to close them properly.
How to know when to get rid of mascara it should be exchanged for a new mascara makes our eyelashes look little stye. In case it dries up few drops of oil (any kind), but it might get dirty. Foundation
Mascara lasts up to 6 months yet one every three months. Remember that though very pretty, they may be outshined by a tiny, beforehand, it can be freshen up by popping a I warn you, it won’t work in the same way and
- - Who hasn’t dreamt about having an even skin tone free from blackheads, rosy cheeks, large pores and pimples?
Makeup foundations do the trick if you are dealing with skin imperfections or if you just did’t get enough of your beauty sleep. How to choose a foundation
Of course, it depends on your skin type and the type of coverage you wish for. Avoid, at all costs, those foundations contain sodium sulfate, aluminum and artificial fragrances. The more water the foundation, the better that foundation will suit your skin, and if it tains essential oils such as jojoba oil, it’s a plus.
on that in con-
How to preserve foundations
If it is a liquid foundation, it should have a place in the fridge. It should be hermetically seal and kept away from humid places like the bathroom.
How to know when to get rid of foundations
Usually, foundations last up to one year but, apart from drying- out, the ingredients of the foundation may tend to separate.
Powder makeup products Here, we’ll cover the whole family of powders including but not limited to blush, bronzer, makeup fixer and eyeshadows. The “long-lasting” makeup products we all tend to use for an excessively large period of time.
How to choose powder makeup products
The infamous talcum powder is your health worst enemy. In addition, it is recommended to avoid using Mica, given that its extraction entails child exploitation.
How to preserve powder makeup products
They are gh they are sensitive to humidity and likely to break forehand. To keep it in the fridge could make it last as seen in social media, if your favorite blush turns hol to those ashes and they will work just fine.
long- lasting products and, thoudown, they should not go off bea couple of more days. Moreover, to ashes, add some drops of alco-
How to know when to get rid of powder makeup products
Let’s not fool ourselves, there is not a single makeup lover who doesn’t keep a memory chest (or a drawer in the bathroom) full of powder palettes for “just in case” events, for years. Depending on the ingredients of the powder makeup products, they may last for up to three years. So let´s not follow Diogenes path when it comes to our faces. The best that we can do is purchase good quality products, forget about their price and buy it even if it is not on sale. If we take enough care of our faces, we will end up saving money because there will be makeup products we will no longer need. Once again, less is more.
Photo by Ian dooley
MAKEUP of VIVIANNER Who is @vivianner ( Vivianne Raudsepp) and how does she start/begin to do makeup ? How does she become a makeup artist? I’m a freelance Makeup Artist / Hair Stylist based in Los Angeles, California. My bags are always packed and ready for the next adventure. A curious mind that loves to travel the world.
I started modelling at a young age living in Asia ending up studying beauty and fashion. To be able to exploring cultures - to be creative with people from around the world is just something so special - for me at least.
Is there a relationship between beauty and health?
I think there is, yes. For sure for sure. When you feel good you look good. When you look good you feel good.
I would say my style is more on the natural side. I like to enhance the natural beauty of a person. Also I find balance very important in any aspect in life.
When you arrived to L.A , how do you start doing makeup?
Moving to LA was just me forever chasing the sun. I mean it was always a dream of mine to live somewhere warm surrounded by palm trees, mountains and the ocean. Until I realised why not give it a go ..I guess it’s true what they say; if you really want something in life you find a way ..So I applied for a visa and started to reach out to people. That funny little thing called Networking.
How do you get into makeup?
I got into makeup through modelling. I really never was the model type of girl but traveling and meeting new people, encountering different cultures always fascinated me. But also getting my make up done for a photoshoot I always felt like a kid entering a candy shop. I guess that explains it all…
What’s important in a production to make you feel comfortable doing makeup?
Good questions. It really comes down to team work. I’m all about vibes. Where we come to again is what I really really like about my job is the people but, also a good location to setup my makeup station and good light is the key for being comfortable which leads to better results.
Do you think It is important to retouch / touch up the pictures?
Well isn’t beauty a thing we all love? I do. And don’t we all touch up everything a little? ..I mean we decorate our homes, we go for facials get our hair coloured we take tattoos ..clothes jewellery …. etc.. ..We decorate ourselves and our surroundings ..so why not also touch up a picture a little..
Which / how is the work process from the moment the idea is born until the final result?
I think all creatives have their own style of working and a production is where many creatives get together. So in my opinion and my experience the process is always created along the way depending on the group of creatives and the project we are on.
e n p n p a i e v s i d V Rau By Manuel Sanchdell
Which cosmetic tools and products are a must in your set?
My set bag is pretty compact to be honest. I have a big variation of skin prep tools and products since I love a fresh and healthy dewy looking skin. I make sure to keep my products organised and clean. Do you travel a lot around the globe? Which is your favourite place ? I do travel a lot. I’ve been close to 40 countries. There’s so many amazing places and cultures and they all are so so different and beautiful in their own way but I do have to admit that Australia has a special place in my heart.
Do you spend much time looking for new opportunities and contacts in order to do makeup for a living ?
I love to connect with people so I guess I do. I see opportunities everywhere. So much to do so much to see! And social media has really helped me along my career.
What inspires you? People inspire me. Beauty inspires me. Wellbeing inspires me. And believe me or not but fear also inspires me!
Do you go often to the movies ?
Funny you ask. I don’t actually. But since moving to LA I came to realise that’s something I should learn more about. Any way of storytelling I’m very curious about. Behind a good movie or a great book there is always someone’s mind. Someone’s experience. Something to learn. Do you consume art ? I want to learn more. More more more.
Which is your favourite food?
Always had a sweet tooth. And I love food. Favourite let’s say any Asian food.
Do you consume art?
I want to learn more. More more more.
How much of the Hollywood dream is true? According to you, what’s the most important thing in your career? Los Angeles and Hollywood. It’s something you understand only by living here. But it’s for sure not for everyone.
Living here I feel like I’m in a movie ..everyday. Most important thing for me in my career is to live and learn and to embrace the creativity in us. To be open-minded and free.
What is your next goal? I have plenty of goals in every area in life. The past few years has made me such a dreamer. I feel like a small
town girl lost in wonderland. My goal right now is probably to get settled and comfortable here in LA. To make it feel like home home and to become successful in my field.
Do you have / is there a phrase that you carry with you?
Flow. I’ve learned not to force things and I try not to control things too much. Just know who you are and what you work towards and trust that everything will fall into place as you keep on moving forward.
Photo by Lari Heikkilä Model Olivia Mäkelä (Brand Model Management) Makeup & Hair by Vivianne Raudsepp using YSL Beauty
@VIVIANNER
FASH ION I N TI M E
OF CRISIS Photographer
Julio Bรกrcena & ร scar Latorre-Bosch @juliobarcenastudio & @oscarandthecat The Catwalk Studio @thecatwalkstudio
GUCCI by BLS FASHION Rings - ARISTOCRAZY
Whatch - ARISTOCRAZY
Bag ANNA CORTINA Watch ARISTOCRAZY
Bag DIOR by COTTON VINTAGE Rings - ARISTOCRAZY & PDPAOLA
Bag - MIETIS Ring - ARISTOCRAZY
LUPO - BARCELONA Chain - ARISTOCRAZY
Nail Artist
Belén Flores Nuñez @velenporella
Art direction & styling
In Crime @incrimecontent
Art & styling asis Laia Alfocea @laiaalfocea
Bag - OFF WHITE by BLS FASHION Rings - FERNANDO RODRIGUEZ & PDPAOLA Crystals - SWAROVSKI
Diamond Setter
At what point was it clear that you wanted to focus your life on art?
Around 2010 I discovered I can draw very detailed portraits, and I was shocked to discover that about myself which lead me to draw a series of portraits from music magazines I had. It was a brief period of drawing, and I stopped because I was mostly focused on my DJ-ing career and music production. In 2018, I started drawing again which turned out to be a fruitful journey of self-exploration.
I understand that you are self-taught, that is, that you do not have a formal education in art, has this influenced your career in any way?
True. I’ve been a full time DJ for almost 16 years now, most of the things I did were self-taught, I never attended university which I am happy about, at least from my experience I can say that learning by yourself can lead to expansion of the imagination and along the way you start discovering ways to get things done which might be unconventional and usually leads to unique outcomes.
What was your first project and what did it mean to you?
My first project was to design a pair of sandals with a matching waist bag on a belt at my father’s shoemaking Atelier around 20 years ago, I was 17 or 18. I was tired of putting all my stuff in my pockets and Fanny bags usually looked pretty ugly, so I designed a bag on a belt with the matching sandals, and only recently such bags became popular.
Where does the pseudonym Diamond Setter come from?
I became a diamond setter when I quit high school to start making my own income, and it seemed like a good career choice because I knew I can learn it quickly and start generating money. The reason that DJ-ing came into the equation was simply because I was a music fanatic as a teenager. With my friends, it was all we talked about, which led me to buying a lot of records. Most of the money I made from diamond setting went to records, this paved the way to my DJ-ing career alongside diamond setting and that’s how I got my nickname Diamond Setter.
@iamdiamondsetter
KEVORK KESH ISH IAN By Nuria Bernardos
You have a long history as a dj and producer in different places, what project has marked you especially in music and why?
After a year into DJ-ing, I became the warm up DJ of Beirut’s very prominent club, “The Basement”, in 2005. I was hired by the Co-Founder and resident dj of the club, “JADE”, whom I became close friends with and who played a big role in my musical career, attending his gigs and listening to his diverse and eclectic sets was the reason I became a DJ. I grew up and matured in his club throughout its time of operation. It was the most important stepping stone in my DJ-ing career.
Could you tell us any anecdote from this stage?
“The Basement” was the first club that started regularly booking international DJs and diverse acts in Beirut, one of them was Jose Gonzalez. After the concert, we went to JADE’s house to chill and hang out, Jade left to bring breakfast, as we waited for his return, jose and his band wanted to have tea, our other friend and I who were quite drunk went to the kitchen to prepare the tea, and by mistake I prepared Laxative tea for the three of them, we never found out what happened with them the next day, they probably blamed it on the Lebanese breakfast.
Music, drawing, illustration, fashion illustration, photography ... of all the artistic fields in which you work, in which do you feel most comfortable?
I’ve always been drawn to different creative disciplines, experimenting with different mediums is almost an obsession, and I find comfort in all of them.
What artists do you admire, like or have some influence on your work?
The artists that inspired me were not necessarily through their works, but rather with their philosophy and approach towards creativity. Colors and lines stand out in your works, sometimes mixing figuration and abstraction, tell us about your style. I don’t know if I have a specific style because I have produced so many different works in the past two years, I would say I have more of a vibe than a style which appears in the different artworks that I do.
Is the concept important to you in your work?
Not necessarily, because I usually follow the feeling and vibe of the work where there’s no concept but more of an attraction, and I don’t try to understand or analyze how or why. It’s like listening to music with no lyrics.
How did the idea of creating “Gallery” come about for your friend Paulo and for what purpose? Gallery was born out of an extreme need for freedom of creative expression on a personal level for me and Paulo, on both musical and artistic levels. Paulo and I were resident DJs at a club in Dubai that’s where we met and became really close friends. We were frustrated by being put into a box all the time, so the night was born where the musical direction was very open and diverse with no one dictating the natural flow of the night. The artwork’s direction and intention was to stand out and step aside from everything that was going on around.
Would you imagine in your beginnings reaching your current position professionally?
I never thought in my teenage years that I want to be a DJ or a painter or whatever it is that I’ve become, I wanted to be a Jewelry designer at first. Everything came about naturally, one thing led to another. My feelings became my compass in leading me to the different directions I took in life.
What future plans do you have? Any future project in hand?
I have a series of paintings which I will transform me into an audio-visual experience alongside the normal exhibition setting, but mostly I’m living day by day given the current situation.
Raúl Bateman is a Spanish photographer who originally hails from Madrid. For the most part, Raúl splits his time between Madrid & Barcelona, but when he needs a break from the hustle & bustle of city life, Raúl finds solace behind the ancient Roman walls of Ávila.
RAuL BATE MAN Raúl comes from an artistic family - his sister is an opera singer, and he says that his parents have always encouraged his creative pursuits. Raúl started out as an illustrator, but never felt that the medium allowed him to express himself to the fullest, so he began to transition into the world of photography. Around this time, Raúl lost his best friend, which had a profound impact on him as he developed in his new medium. Raúl says that his development as a photographer was deeply affected by the loss of his best friend, and that his art serves as an outlet for that trauma. Perhaps this is why Raúl's photography isn't what one would call commercial I’ve always been self-taught. I actually started as a photographer's assistant, and since i had no formal training, I was thrown into the deep end. But, I would say that I have learnt more from friends and experts than I could have learnt in any special school. So, I’m a supporter of people searching for their own ways.
@raulbateman
How was your experience as an assistant?
I started at a very prestigious studio in Madrid. I worked extremely hard and learned a lot, even though I was learning from scratch. My very first shoot was with Rafa Gallar, a photographer that I admire both for his art and his heart. It was on this very first shoot that I realized I wanted to devote myself to a career in photography Starting as an assistant can be excruciating and undervalued, that is why I respect assistants very highly. Assistants can be the best companion to work side by side, they are your buddies making sure that everything is perfect and handling your tools to create.
What is your favorite genre of photography?
My favorite is probably 70’s to 90’s fashion, but also photojournalism and signature author photography, because they capture very real and very human images.
Who are some of your favorite photographers?
Peter Hugar, Paolo Nozolino, Helmut Newton, Peter Lindbergh, Francesca Woodman, Vivian Maier, Michael Ackerman, Robert Capa, among others.
Fi lm or digital photography?
I like both, but film is more mystical and artisan. Personally, I work digital because it is easier to produce, although it is ephemeral.
How would you describe the theme of your photography? -Fashion from a less commercial point of view, a more human picture of it. - Beauty of the bodies, especially feet, that are my guilty fetish. -Being able to relate a story to an image.
What celebrities would you like to shoot (with your camera)?
Loads. Keanu Reeves is a high on my list. I would also love to shoot Christian Bale, Tom Hardy, and Gal Gadot. Concerning the national scene, I would choose Úrsula Corberó, Najwa, Bunbury... I wish I could have worked with Pau Donés, he had a beautiful and unique face, full of love and charisma.
By Cristina Sardón
Is there any fashion designer that you would like to work with?
I wish I could have had the honor to work with Azzedine Alaïa, and I would love to work for Givenchy or Yves Saint Laurent.
If you could do the scenography for any movie or director, which movie / director would you choose Any by Nicholas Winding Refn, Stanley Kubrick, or Tarkovski.
What's your favorite type of camera to work with?
I’m very basic as a photographer. I am happy with my 60D, my 17-85mm and not a lot more, really. Is there any kind of photography that you dislike? I can’t stand Fantasy photography, because it looks like illustration. People who take pictures in chroma and perform photo retouching and add fantasy items are not photographers from my point of view -they are illustrators. In my opinion, photography has to be simple: a capture of microseconds, no more. It is true that if you are creating an editorial it is fictional, but it has to be performed in a way that retouchings are minimal.
What's your long term goal as a photographer? To continue doing what I love without having to worry about making ends meet. To help others in my circle. I would love to publish a book
someday, or make an exposition, but I am not in a rush. People are always rushing to be productive , this attitude can be detrimental. One ends up presenting shallow work at times, it should be quality over quantity. I will try to take a step ahead when I am ready for it -I want to see people satisfied by my work.
Have you had any bad experiences with clients?
We all have had them with clients and models who do not respect your work. I have met people of all kinds, with lack of empathy empathy and too much ego. This is why I advise all photographers to only work with a contract if they’re expecting payment; sometime people burn out early and want don’t want to see the whole thing through.
Fre e dom Photographer: Messi Schneider by Creative Management
Stylist: Guvanch
Makeup: Ju Ritondaro Hair: Simone Petinatti Retouch: Samretouch by Sande&Moore
Models:
Kristina Sheiter - Celina Krogmann Renee Bhagwandeen - Fernanda Abbott
Blazer - 2WN Shirt - Kutnia Thights - Calzedonia Head band - Prada
Blazer - Guvanch Shirt - Kutnia Thights - Calzedonia Head band - Prada Necklace - Celine
Blazer - 2WN Feather top - Khoman Room Thights - Calzedonia Hat - Mi Miele
Tights - Calzedonia Corset - Ezie Design Cape dress - Litkovskaya Swimwear - Napa swim Hat: Mi Miele
Bรกrbara Fialho Photographer: Leandro Franco Stylist: Diogo Brasiliano & Isabella Estevez (AgTout) Stylist assistant: Larissa Salinas MUAH: Renato Mardonis MUAH Assistant: Juliana Bonfim Hair(Bumble and Bumble Makeup Mac Cosmetics) Retouch: Samretouch by Sande&Moore Model: Bรกrbara Fialho (Mega Models BR)
Shirt - Manzan Overall - Loft 747
Hat - Nath Hats . Dress - Ido Concept
Top - S Club Earrings - Mellina Machado
Dress - Eduarda Galvani Rings & Earrings - Mellina Machado
Top - Razzo Beret - Chanel by Trash Chic Earrings - Vintage by Trash Chic Velo - Matilda
Aire
Photographer Robert Guzman
Stylist: Walkiria Beltran MUAH: Keren Murillo Modelo: Masha tevdoradze
waistcoat - Mรกxima Ponce Leggins - Anthony Rivera
Dress - Blanco Abrajan Shoes - Cecy Von
Coat - MGV Shirt - Rcano Skirt - Edher Gin Leggins - Calzedonia Shoes - Cecy Von
Dress - Juan Worley
ana
Regi na By Nuria Bernardos
I believe that design is a tool for communicating a message, there’s always a message. How you choose to express it, in an obvious or unobvious way, will depend on the project. You can convey ideas by using an specific illustration style or by putting concepts together... there will always be something to say.
What get you into graphic design?
I really didn´t know that I wanted to do this. Since I was little, I was interested in painting and my parents made a huge effort to take me to painting lessons. When the time came for me to decide what program to pursue at university, I realized that it was the closest thing to what I liked, but actually, I didn´t know what it meant to be a graphic designer. Later on, doubts were nowhere to be found.
Were there any difficulties throughout this journey?
There are always difficulties. I think, professionally, there was a time, after my graduation, when it was very hard to get a job, and it was then that the Red Chambelon Project came to life, as an initiative to keep in touch with friends and to financially fund our own ideas.
After working in so many different countries, what made you stay in Spain?
Deciding to relocate entailed going through such a rough patch and to leave so many things behind that it totally changed the way in which I saw life. I’m here in Spain because I like living here, I found stability and peace, for the time being, at least, but I could do it all over again and live in some place else, who knows.
How would you define your style?
I wouldn’t say I’ve got a style, I’d say that I like some things and, sometimes, those things repeat themselves. Since I attended university, I’ve been told that I should find my style, but, in fact, my working experienced has taught me that there´s a different approach for each project and ‘style’ is another element to work with. Each project has its own soul and each of them convey different meanings, which is why I vary my style. In my case, I’m always changing my mind about role models. Nonetheless, some things always catch my eye, though they aren’t necessarily displayed in my illustrations and, one of them is the surrealistic avant- garde. I love Leonora Carrington’s work and it’s always a source of inspiration as well as Belquis Ayón’s engravings and Cuban cinema showcases, overall. I also love discovering new contemporary artists. Lately, I’ve been inspired by María Herreros’ work. Moreover, I’ve got many designer friends whom I admire and who are also my role models because they work very hard and they do a really great job: @cmondeja , @afrodreak, @lmgraffiti, @polo_vader_1105, @miguel_monkc, @guillomoreno35, @ chelsymooncat, and @mimo92ami.
We know that you are in the big leagues of mass media working for the newspaper ‘El País’ and its fashion magazine ‘SModa’, what did that mean to you professionally?
To work in SModa means learning something new, every day. They set high professional standards and require attention to detail. I have a long way to go and much to learn but I feel that I’m taking giant steps. Each day is a challenge and it motivates me.
Which was the project that brought you more satisfaction?
The project I enjoyed the most doing was Red Chambelon. Nothing tops working with people you love and admire professionally.
RedChambelon… can you tell us more about that project?
RedChambelon is a Cuban brand of design. My friends Carlos Mondeja, Leonardo Perez and I developed this project, in 2017. We created it after sharing artistic experiences in our studio, and this last three years we had three self-funded exhibitions. RedChambelon is an interdisciplinary project that combines art, illustration and visual arts. In the future, we want to get into the world of fashion and online selling of our products.
Future project?
We’re working on the online shop and next year collection, hand in hand with two wonderful consultants Inés and Iván from “La Casita de Wendy”.zz
@disena_dora_laexploradora
“The secrete lies not in observing more but rather in observing differently”
By Manuel Sanchdell
My motto in life and at work
clara de N A D A L
J
ournalist, coolh unte r an d bran d CONSULTANT.
Clara De Nadal Trias is a Journalist, Coolhunter [trend analyst & expert] and Brand Consultant, born in Barcelona, with 15 years of experience in offline and digital Media and specialized in Fashion, Retail and Lifestyle [travel-experiences] sectors and she speaks 6 languages. I am the founder of www.coolhuntinglab.com/en, creative agency and laboratory offering content, trend research, experience marketing, social changes and consumer behavior techniques to help brands, companies and businesses improve their branding, image and content to connect more and better with clients. Since April 2020 I am the creator of the first downloadable course with online classes about Digital Coolhunting, accessible to all publics from anywhere in the world. Last but not least, for the past 8 years I am lecturer and I teach Masterclasses about Coolhunting and trends in the main Universities and fashion schools in Spain, Mexico and some in the USA; and I do also organize city-tours and trend routes for brands, agencies and media.
After studying journalism at the university; working as a producer on television and communication agencies; working on fashion shows and for various fashion designers; learning languages; traveling and living in various countries… I decided to focus on my passion: fashion and trends, to study again and do a Master in Communication and Fashion Design in Barcelona. It was while I was studying this Master in 2009, that one day I discovered the profession of Coolhunting during a conference, I had a crush and from that moment onwards I knew that I was born for it. Convinced, I told my parents, moved to London to specialize as a Coolhunter at Central Saint Martins School and since then I have never stopped.
Discovering new trends is a fairly unknown job and very few people know the background. What process does a coolhunter? What is your work based on?
In general, most people think that analyzing and researching trends refers to the world of fashion only. But the truth is that detecting trends can be done not only in fashion but in any sector, market or field like: architecture, design, gastronomy, hospitality, leisure, etc. And regardless of the subject or sector to be analyzed, the first thing to do is a field study at a macro level (social, political, economic, cultural, consumer behavior, consumption habits, etc.) and then narrow it down to the market niche that you are interested in investigating. According to my experience of 15 years as a journalist and 11 years as an analyst and expert in trends; I can say that each coolhunter has its own personal method of developing its work, but generally the investigation process begins with: observation, detection of tension points, information gathering at all levels, finding sources, detecting influencers, finding the centers of gravity where trends usually take place, analyze results… Ultimately, the goal of a coolhunter is or should be, to analyze society, predict its changes, understand consumer behavior, and find missing market needs and opportunities in advance; to help people, brands and companies to connect more and better with their customers so that together we can create a better world.
You have created a method to make brands know the way to success. What is your method about? Can any company or public access to it? That’s it. After 15 years working for media, brands and multinationals, two years ago I decided to start and create my own company which is www.coolhuntinglab.com/en and one of the services I offer is the 360º Branding Method, which basically consists of: helping any type of brand, company and business by messing up ideas and reorganizing them with the purpose to refresh and boost your branding, your identity and brand communication; establishing an image and aesthetic coherence in all your platforms and at the same time ensuring that customers connect and consume more and better in an effective and organic way. Now more than ever, especially after lockdown, it is time to rethink and redefine brand identity and strategies to remain relevant and remember that “brands have to be where their customers are”, which translated into here and now, means being in the digital world and especially on mobile devices.
We are used to hearing the word “trends” in the fashion world, but what trends are hitting hard nowadays and how are they changing according to this new COVID19 pandemic?
Well, I could spend days and days talking about it, because considering that trends never stop happening continuously, the pandemic has been an incessant catalyst of unprecedented trends. And from a research point of view it is an extremely exciting time. However, among all the emerging trends that I could mention about, that will continue or that will evolve in another direction... Perhaps the new social and consumer habits are the most notable ones. Thanks to or because of Covid19, we have acquired new life habits such as the redistribution of spaces at home, learning to take advantage of and better division of spaces: leisure area, work area, study area, relaxation area or sports area in the same square meters. Along the same lines, we could talk about the same redistribution of spaces but this time made by the tourism sector and its desire to reinvent itself. Thus, many hospitality companies have been forced to innovate to find solutions to the lack of travelers. For example, here I could talk about the B&B Hotels chain, which, with 33 establishments in Spain, has converted a large part of the rooms that it did not fill into offices. In terms of shopping and retail, a good example is the recently opened store of the well-known fashion brand Off-White in the Design District of Miami, which has been conceived as much more than a clothing space with a venue for talks and conferences, fashion shows, art and music events, and so on. Another great trend is the growing nutritional awareness, as a result of having to stay locked up at home, not being able to go out to eat and therefore “being forced” to start learning cooking, or to cook more than before, and be more aware of what and how we eat and where our food comes from. On the other hand, in general, we have acquired and established conscious consumption as a trend: more local, more sustainable, more long-lasting, more conscious. And here I can also talk about the trend to include new priorities as reuse more, invest in second hand, resell and a new direction towards the circular economy. For example, I can mention the concept of made-to-order or pre-order, which is increasingly common in many business models, where brands produce based on demand and not based on supply. In this way, it is not
only produced without excesses and less pollution. Now the products also acquire an exclusivity connotation and the brand stops losing benefits caused by excess stocks, which end up being stored or sold wholesale. Another great trend is the one called back to the roots, because of the increase of rethinking how we live and how we want to live. Many of us who have had to live the locked down in small flats inside cities with little fauna and flora; we now value nature more than before and start seeking an approach to improve our quality of life and return to rural life. So as the title of the trend itself indicates, trying to going back to the origins. And as a last trend I will mention the new now. More and more people around the world reflect on their life, the future, where we are going, the family and work conciliation, how we relate, how we treat each other, etc. And hence the approach to new techniques of evasion, esoterism and connection with Mother Earth such as meditation, yoga, conscious dance, astrology, the horoscope and so on. Also many people are starting new hobbies, switching jobs and dedicating ourselves to what really makes us happy. So little by little, we are trying to move towards a model of life that is healthier and more sustainable inside and outside, based on the “here and now”.
Many companies are born with the idea of succeeding in a short period of time, but most fail on such important points as trend research. How much time do you have to invest on research in order to reinvent what’s been established and achieve the success of your business?
A few months ago I read an interview to a Consultant, who stated that “authenticity is overrated and that the important thing now is to be consistent”, but I disagree. Today, and especially after the effects of Covid19, being consistent or not is the least of it. On the contrary, the important thing now and for the changing future that awaits us, is to be well informed and in professionals’ hands. It’s also important that brands, companies, markets and new business models are authentic and honest with what they do and how they do it [because consumers are not stupid]. And above all, be fast and adaptable to change. That is the key to success in the medium-long term: “be well informed, be authentic, honest and adaptable to change doing so as quickly as possible”.
For a coolhunter, a world full of possibilities is literally a world even more full of possibilities. How do you work in your day to day? Do you disconnect easily?
Good question. If I’m 100% honest, I never disconnect. I can’t help it (lol). I am constantly making associations and mind maps, design thinking, observing and listening to society, people and everything that happens around me, near or far. I also sleep very little and the hours that I am awake I am always inquiring, browsing, reading, talking to people, following my intuition, discovering the old and the new... But it is true that when I travel, I manage to escape a bit from my work routine, or at least stop thinking a bit about “my stuff” and just focus on relaxing and enjoying myself. Then what happens is that traveling is so inspiring that in the end I can’t quite disconnect and my head is once again a buzz with exciting ideas... So I start over again.
What new projects will create trends in your professional field in a few years?
I could tell you many... But to give you a direction, I will say “Coliving” and everything that has to do with new ways of living with a better quality of life, in community, sharing more and giving feedback to each other, closer to nature and creating more without destroying.
What hobbies do you have?
Well, the truth is that I have several and quite different ones. My greatest hobby is traveling and writing about my travels and my discoveries in art, design, leisure, gastronomy, lifestyle, cities, people, etc. And traveling is also how I started in my other great passion, starting 15 years ago, which is actively collaborating in the conservation of extinct animals, traveling and living in jungles with wild primates and specifically now and for two years, also with Fundació Mona, a chimpanzee and macaque rescue and conservation foundation, an hour and a half drive from Barcelona. I am also passionate about eating well, cooking based on the product and I have been learning about macrobiotics for many years: the balance in each dish, and I am a great sports fan. Since I was little I have done gymnastics, basketball and volleyball, although with ball sports I am really terrible (lol). I was many years doing spinning, gym workouts, yoga... Until one day my father gave me a voucher to try Pilates and my life completely changed thanks to my trainer, Master in Authentic Pilates and now also my good friend Sònia A. I remember that when I started with Pilates everyone used to call me crazy because almost no one practiced it at that time, almost 14 years ago. Now Pilates has become an obsession and a medicine for me that has changed me physically and especially mentally and now I could “never” leave it.
@claradenadaltrias - -- - - @coolhuntinglab
PHOTO BY MARINA
We - Nina, Denise, Verena and Marina, got to know each other at the Cherrydeck meets MK Retouching event in November 2019. It was already clear during the event - we are all sympathetic and would like to see each other again. Then we met a few times in Munich for a creative exchange, a few cups of coffee and had a great time together. After thinking about my own YouTube channel for a long time, I got the idea of a video challenge. The requirement: 4 photographers take pictures of 1 model, each with 5 minutes of shooting time. I got inspiration for the challenge on Jessica Kobeissi’s YouTube channel.
4 photograph e rs SHOOT 1 MODE L
Each photographer was allowed to choose a complete outfit, make-up, styling and location.The results of the individual shootings were then compared with each other after each location. It turned out that each of us photographed the model in its own way, each has its own style of posing, lighting and communication with the model and so the same set resulted in the most diverse shots.
I called and so I had to shot first. In my photography, female self-determination and being feminine are in the same place as strong and self-confident women. That’s why I kept my look very sporty but still sexy and photographed model Julia on a basketball court. My goal was to combine the soft, feminine features of Julia with the raw, urban look of a streetball basketball court.The challenge forces you to reinvent yourself again and again in the shortest possible time. Actual ideas are anticipated and you see yourself not only exposed to your own pressure but also to that of other photographers. Of course, that puts you under emotional pressure and you feel like you are in free fall at times. But like expected, raw diamonds were created by that pressure. What I liked most about the challenge was the creative process, which takes place at a much faster pace. You always have to force yourself out of your own routine or comfort zone.
PHOTO BY MARINA
Mari na @geckeler_photography
The second look was styled by Denise. The model Julia wore a light floral dress, the location was surrounded by trees on the edge of the Hirschpark in Munich.“With my outfit, I wanted to create a timeless and feminine look that was perfectly represented by model Julia. Above all, her natural look and her red hair harmonized very well with the outfit and the location. I was very happy to be able to work with the girls on this project on International Women’s Day. We just had a lot of positive vibes that day! It was really interesting and nice to support each other and to see how our ideas differ from each other. I’m already looking forward to our summer edition!”- Denise Gligor.
PHOTO BY DENISE
de n ise
@denisegligor
Verena’s outfit was a black pants suit and a back yard with garages served as the location.“For me, as always, it stayed clean and straight in monochrome colors with a pinch of transparency. I did not feel uncomfortable in any setting of my fellow combatants - on the contrary. The different approaches of my colleagues and these small, subtle nuances that each brought in make the difference and the picture an independent work. The short time window of five minutes also drives you out of your own comfort zone and forces you to “get to the point” faster. Without previous great planning, this will fall back on learned routines, but it also brings new aspects, since you are not taking pictures on your own set. It is astonishing how many variations can be found in the same area - in our case fashion - and which dynamics also develop within the team. I can only recommend such a project to anyone who wants to think outside the box.” - Verena Mandragora.
PHOTO BY VERENA
ve@verenamandragora re na
n i na @ninamasic
PHOTO BY NINA
The fourth look was styled by Nina with an edgy hair and make-up and minimalist outfit. She chose a covered courtyard entrance as the location.“The challenge was a really fun and challenging experience. It was interesting to see how each of us photographers brought in a different style and aesthetic. Given that we were only allowed to shoot with the model for 5 minutes, we all did great work. Sometimes it’s just good to get out of your comfort zone and push yourself to the limit. You could feel that and I would definitely do it again!” - Nina Masic.
PHOTO BY DENISE @julia.srge (model) @annaca.sh (make up artist) @danielpetz (camera man) @michaelstelz (music producer) www.geckeler.myportfolio.com www.denisegligor.com www.ninamasic.com www.mandragora.at
MODEL JULIA S.
HAIR & MAKE-UP ANNA
But the challenge was not only new territory for us photographers, our model Julia Strege from Modelwerk also had to coordinate a lot during the shoot:”Although it was a challenge to switch between the photographers and not to be put under pressure by the time, I really enjoyed the shoot and I found it a great experience.” - Julia Strege We also got to know our make-up artist Anna Glaser at the Cherrydeck event and like us, she was also enthusiastic about this project: “For me as a make-up artist, it was great and exciting to see how differently each individual creative person saw the model Julia. Due to the specifications regarding hair and make-up and due to the very different styling, a
completely new vibe has arisen every time. The project has given me new creative incentives! “ - Anna Glaser A big thank you also to our cameraman Daniel Petz from TheThreeSeven, who accompanied us throughout the day.“It was particularly exciting for me to be able to hold onto this concentrated load of creativity in such a harmonious but still competitive environment. The different approaches and the emotional pressure that the four photographers built themselves up were sometimes almost palpable. I think it was this pressure that made the day so special.” - Daniel Petz
PHOTO BY NINA
TH E M E MORY OF FORGOTTE N TH I NGS Photograper: Verena Mandragora Assistant: Isabel Hoestermann Wardrobe & Styling: Fanny Forster Make up & Hair: Laura Trotta Model: Anneka (Pars Management)
Photographer:
Judith Moreno Producer: Manuel Sanchdell Stylist: Joana Real
Stylist Assistant: Lara Ontiveros MUAH: Roberto Avellán & Patricia Ceballos
Models: Minú RAO - Natalia Koroleva ( River ) Luisa Cortés ( Francina Models ) & Diego Domínguez Photo Asistant: Fernando Jiménez Thanks: Ana Isabel Boñal & Allegra Scena
Sweater & Dress - Loreak Mendian . Skarf - Friperie . Earrings - Verbena Madrid . Bag - Unisa
Diego Sweater - ShoopClothing Pants - Simun Necklace white cross - Albert Coll Natalia Coat & Shirt - Anonyme Pants - Reveligion Bag - Laia Alen Earrings Papiro Madreperla - CoolLook Necklace - Lola Casademunt.
Minú Capa - Reveligion Dress - Anonyme Glasses - Nina Mûr Earrings - Musula Ring Erebus - CooLook Diego Sweater- ShoopClothing Pants - Simun Trench Coat Burberry & Scarf - Friperie Necklace white cross - Albert Coll
Luisa Coat - Anonyme Dress - Alicia Rueda High neck t-shirt - Loreak Mendian Earrings - Lausett Pearl Necklace - Lola Casademunt Ring - CoolLook Red Bag - Virginia Henkart Diego Jacket - ShoopClothing Red Sweater - Custo Barcelona Pants - Friperie
Luisa Coat - Anonyme Dress - Alicia Rueda High neck t-shirt - Loreak Mendian Earrings - Lausett Pearl Necklace - Lola Casademunt Ring - CoolLook Red Bag - Virginia Henkart
Minú Dress Flowers - Juan Millán Black Earrings - Musula Black Necklace - CoolLook Silver Ring - Unode50 Ring 3 treasures malaquita - Victoriadelacalva
Diego Jacket - Fred&Perry Pants & Bag - Timberland Socks - Jimmy Lion Shoes - Camper Glasses String ParĂs Gold - La Morenita Necklace Judas sin flor - La Morenita
Natalia Dress - Alicia Rueda Jacket - Juan Millรกn Flip Flops - Fran Jul Chรณquer Tyl - Gabriela Mora Bird Earrings - Lausett
Luisa Shirt - Friperie Dress - Reveligion Skirt - Anonyme Shoes - Fran Jul Glasses - Etnia Barcelona Chain Glasses Valencia - La Morenita Gold Ring - Unode50
Ring 3 treasures madreperla - Victoriadelacalva Natalia Shirt - Anonyme Pants - Juan Millรกn Coat & Scarf - Friperie Shoes & Bag - Unisa Bracelet - CoolLook.
MinĂş Shirt - Reveligion Pants - Anonyme Glasses - Etnia Barcelona Hat & Scarf- Friperie Earrings - Musula Bracelet - La Morenita
Federica Bucci
By Cristina Sardón
was born in Italy, but she's spent time all over the world: Rome, Florence, London, Edinburgh, NYC and LA. I discovered her a while back scrolling through Instagram. I followed her, she followed back, and we have kept in touch ever since. We discovered that we sort of have parallel lives. We're both Mediterranean girls and, like her, I have also lived in different cities around the world. We both grew up on MTV, gushing over American pop culture. We both have a penchant for David Lynch films. And, we both have partners who left LA to start new lives with us here in the EU. I've always wanted to pick Frederica's brain and learn more about her approach to photography. If you're not familiar with her work, it's quite unique and quite obscure - somehow both vibrant and macabre. I finally got to run a few questions by her:
@scvmrat
Has your upbringing helped you develop your artistic character? A1: I would say so, yes. I grew up in a small town in Italy, a mostly conservative and religious culture felt like oppression to me ever since I was little. As I grew I discovered I could be set free through many forms of art which I had to “discover” myself. I remember sneaking out on the roof to listen to Nirvana, Nine inch Nails and Marilyn Manson tapes bought with pocket money I would get from my parents. That was the first encounter I had with the 1990’s American / MTV culture which led me to dig deeper into music, art and photography. When I was 12 I made friends with an American kid who came to my school for a year or so, he had moved from Seattle with his family. We instantly got along and started exchanging stories about our different lifestyles and cultures. I got my hands on some punk and vintage erotic zines he had brought from America. I was suddenly hit by those images, they moved something inside me. I felt there was so much more to be discovered. When did you decide to start with photography? A2: I was a kid. Probably 9 or 10, I would watch my father document every vacation or family gathering with his old yashica fx3, I would go with him to the store to get the pictures developed and the process really intrigued me. I remember thinking I could stop the time by taking a picture of a particular moment and it would stay with me forever. That’s when I got my first camera a really cool Pink Polaroid.
Influences A3: I have been deeply influenced by being a part of the “outcasts”... goth and punk cultures is where the roots of my work come from but also my own country gave me plenty of inspiration to “desecrate the sacred” and really find my own creative voice. That’s when I started exploring my sexuality and found out I could express it, never without being judged by the society around me.
Favorite: film or digital. Why? A4. Film. Film is romantic. Mysterious. Unpredictable. There is some sort of excitement coming from the unknown of shooting with analog cameras. Considering IG is a visual platform, does it have a negative or positive effect on your photography? A5. It is a double edged sword. Many people could jump to conclusions about my photography which is often described as fetish or erotic. That isn’t necessarily my intent, at the same time I do not want to dictate interpretations. Is there a specific theme running through your work? A6. Certainly. Freedom of choice and expression. If you had to choose a soundtrack for your work, what would it be? A7. It would be a haunting and sensual soundtrack, like those in giallo films. Do you feel a special connection with other visual mediums (film, photography, interior design....)? I do, I’m very fond of the German expressionism as well as giallo and Italian erotica films. If you could do photography on (or for) any movie, what would it be? A9. My dream would be to work for a Dario Argento Movie. Is photography your full time job? A14. It’s been a passion for many years. I never thought I could make it a job. Against all odds I am now dedicating myself to photography only. Would you change anything at all in your trajectory if you could go back in time? A15 Yes. I wouldn’t have kept my photography for myself for so many years. I was insecure and afraid of judgmen.
ROOM 707 Photographer: Dasha Parker Stylist: Anthony Bermudez MUAH: Brazil Raine Model: Stephanie Peterson (Wilhelmina Miami) Retouching: Samretouch
Black Velvet Dress - Missguided
Sparkle Skirt - H&M Color Necklace - Chanel
Sparkly Cut Out Dress - Fashionkilla
Sparkly Star Dress - ASTR the Label Earrings - Chanel
Metallic Dress - ASTR the Label
Printed Dress -Zara Blazer - Yumi Embellished
Black Leather Dress - Mango Black Ankle Boots - Z_Code_Z
Sparkle Mini Dress - ASOS
M
USE
Photographer & Stylist: Sergi Padial MUAH: Patricia Sรกnchez Model: Urte (Two Management BCN)
Pendientes - Elisheva & Constance Vestido Ana Locking
Camisa - Bibian Blue Anillo - Fernando RodrĂguez Pendientes - Thalata
Vestido - Bibian Blue Pendientes - Fernando RodrĂguez
Pendientes - Fernando RodrĂguez Vestido - Ana Locking
Blazer - Corina + Irina Choker - Next Couture
RICHARD RAMOS "you sense beauty,
you feel it in your bones"
What made you, a computer engineer, become a photographer? It has been ages since I made that change of direction and I almost forgot it. I supposed that it was I, taking me from where I was, to where I wanted to be. I listened to my guts.
How did fashion photography come to your life and why did it stay?
I wanted to be a photographer but I didn’t know what genre I wanted to pursue. I ended up in fashion for the same reason life keeps rolling: a combination of fate and luck. I’m happy with the way things turned out.
Which was your first job? And which was your first job in photography?
My first proper job (saved for those gigs during my youth) was working as a game developer. In photography, as it happened to most of my colleagues, some test shots I took ended up being published. This was the year 2003.
When did you realized your style was becoming a part of you?
I haven’t got any idea, yet. It’s something very easy for those who see what I do to recognize my style but it’s really hard to see it for myself. At least, in my opinion.
@richardramosstudio
Nowadays, photo retouching has evolved to the point it’s almost natural. How important is post-production in your works?
It is very important. Even now, that we are trying to alter pictures the least we can. In fact, I’ve always been an advocate of avoiding steep alterations to photographs. Of course, sometimes integration of photography and other huge changes to photographs are required. I believe that, nowadays, post-production is focused on giving pictures a truly natural final retouch. Retouching without retouching, in other words. It’s a delicate point.
In which way do you think the fashion industry is changing regarding photography?, what has been lost, what do you miss, and what do you think it’s on the horizon? Editorial photography is fading away. There has been cuts in budgets year after year, as publications on paper are fighting through in a world that is more digital every day and with a tendency to ephemerality. And here we are. I don’t believe that mainstream fashion magazines will disappear but they sure will have to make a change (which they are already making) to keep up with the trends. I hope they find the magic formula because fashion editorials are the hidden corner in which is still possible to create without so many restrictions. This is also changing: many editorials are being directly sponsored by certain brands and that has also limited the freedom of stylists and photographers. There’s a tendency to replace magazine editorials for ‘single-brand editorials’ which are made to fuel the content displayed in online shopping platforms.
Do you have any goal that you want to tell us about?
To consolidate my career as a professional photographer beyond Spain. In addition, I want to be rich, of course.
What is beauty for you? Do you have someone who inspires you? Beauty is hard to define though easy to perceive. There’s no need to beat your brains out: you sense beauty, you feel it in your bones, it invites you to live in a richer and wider state of mind. Beauty is an endless and powerful energy. We all perceive it besides our own specific tastes. It’s a universal and human experience that makes us all equals.
Who have been your role models? And, who have been the ones who inspired you the most on your way to fashion photography? I’m not going to be quite original. The masters of this profession: Richard Avedon, Helmut Newton, Guy Bourdin, Irving Penn, Edward Steichen, Nina Leen, Sarah Moon… and the list goes on. However, Javier Vallhonrat was my greatest influence when I first step into this world. In addition, I had the pleasure to meet him and get to talk to him in person.
Whom do you wish to work with? With Franca Sozzani. But that won’t be possible anymore. Do you think before you act or not?
I usually take my time to process things but once I make up my mind I get cracking. I can spend years in two minds about one project but when the time comes, I instantly get down to it.
Where would you like to work? London
Where would you like to live?
Somewhere in between Los Angeles and Miami.
An artist?
My children, they are two, sorry.
What is your motto? “It will not always be like this.”
By Manuel Sanchdell & Alessandra Xanló
The intimate magnetism of
Damon Bake r K nown for his dramatic use of portraiture, photographer Damon Baker creates powerful and intimate pictures that bewitch others by its simplicity, and through which the force and the vulnerability of those portrayed is reveled. His ability to capture the unexpected is what makes him stand out as an artist.
By Iris Mogollón
Damon Baker is a widely known British, portrait photographer. He left high school when he was 17 years old and he moved to New York to follow his dreams of becoming a photographer. At the age of 18, Damon Baker was discovered by Jed Root, one of the topmost management agencies in the world, and made his debut as a professional photographer in 2008. Since then, Mr Baker has photographed many celebrities and renowned models and he has teamed up with widely known fashion magazines such as Vogue, Vanity Fair, GQ, InStyle Magazine, French Numero, Wonderland, Sunday Times STYLE, i-D, Stern and many more; He has also worked in advertising campaigns for Omega, Karl Lagerfeld, L’Oréal and Emporio Armani.
@damon_baker
Throughout the years, Baker has develop a unique aesthetic approach for his photography. That is precisely one the most singular artistic qualities he possesses: his esthetic. Three aspects that instantly dazzle others about his photography are the naturalness bestowed upon those portrayed, the retro feeling, and the impression that there is a story behind all photographies. His camera captures them as if he was portraying their alter egos, highlighting the deepest and most intimate aspects of their personalities, thus creating photographies that ooze out vulnerability, magnetism, authenticity, and a sense of crude sensuality that attracts the audiences. It captures beauty as a whole in an intimate way.
Damon hates all superfluous things and strongly tries to create clean and minimalistic takes. For that reason, he prefers black and white photography,(though he has also been experimenting with colors), which gets rid of distractions and so the attention focuses on people’s expressions and their facial features. From such a distinct contrast of their images, he obtains a crude and magnetic portrait. Mr Baker’s qualities also include spending hours talking to the models before the beginning of the photoshoot just to learn about their personalities and their story. Baker says that his “trick” to obtain the photographies that he wishes for is to chat with the models for them to feel completely comfortable with one another. Moreover, Baker has taken advantage of his social media platforms to connect with his followers and give them access to the “backstage” of his thoughts and the intend behind his photography. The relationship he is building with his followers is what causes his popularity among people of all ages equally to expand. Accordingly, Damon Baker’s visibility develops as well as his impact on pop culture and the fashion industry. Definitely, Mr Baker will still be a topic of conversation and he will keep on surprising us.
DAN ICASTIÑEIRAS EL BY Manuel Sanchdell
Person, illustrator, picture creator. I grew up in the mountains outside of Madrid. Nowadays, I live closer to the city center. I’m 27 years old and I keep a sharp, kind of wry or witty, sense of humour, I share this with my family. During my free time, I hang out with friends, drink a couple of beers or attend exhibitions. I also like to walk in nature. And lately, I’ve become a plant person. How long have you been engaging in art and developing your style? Professionally, I’ve been working for like two days as some may say. I don’t see myself as an artist, I’m an illustrator and that is what I show in my exhibitions. I like pictures in general, design, photography, animation, film, etc. I’m very much interested in pop art, I guess that Warhol had a lot to do with that. It’s hard to think about when, but I believe it was during my days in the academy of Fine Arts when I finally made up my mind about what I wanted and chose cartoon drawing style. Since then, I started to walk along that road, with regards to my personal style. Every day, I try to simplify forms in my illustrations; less is more in design. On the other hand, I try to apply new techniques in each project. If you’re always doing the same, you stop ex-
@danielcastineiras
perimenting thus stop learning. In my opinion, there must be a place for versatility to adapt one’s style to each project.
What do you think is essential in a creation? A concept and good taste. We are constantly bombarded with visual information. A good idea leads people to take a closer look to the image instead of scrolling. In order to perfect techniques, it’s necessary to practice as it happens with any other discipline. The more you practice, the more you improve. You need to practice eagerly. Regarding good taste, it is also something that you train by observing many pictures to develop a critical view, which should improve your aesthetic taste. When an image catches my attention I try to think about what is it that I like, colors, composition…
Where does inspiration come from in a personal project? Anywhere from films to conversations, other artists’ works, the environment or a moment in the shower. Ideas take shape in sketches by developing the initial idea. The first step in the creative process is the concept. From the moment you sit on a chair and think, “what should I draw, today?” What has been working well for me is brainstorming and drawing sketches just using markers. I draw as many images as I can about the topic or opinion I want to illustrate. In this part of the process, there is no filter. The aim is to create as many sketches as possible the fastest I can. Then, I choose the best ideas. When I have enough pictures which I think will work, I try different compositions or ways of telling the same idea; but this time, with better sketches. These sketches are the ones I usually digitize. I sometimes draw the entire sketch by hand and then scan it.
Do you travel? I’ve always love travelling, visiting new countries, getting to know new cultures. When I travel, I usually take my 50mm camera or a notebook and a marker. I take pictures of the architecture of the place or of the things that catch my attention and if I have more time, I draw a quick sketch. My girlfriend, who I travel the most with, is always turning around to see if she should stop because I’m always taking pictures. This year, we weren’t able to travel due to covid-19. We’ll have to see how things go on during the following months.
What type of art, films, plays, music, do you consume? Local exhibitions of photography, painters, posters… I’m interested in comic books and graphic novels and illustrators from the 30’s. Regarding music, I like hip-hop, indie style, salsa, and the music of the 60´s and 70’s has a special place in my heart. Concerning films, I like directors such as Billie Wilder, Scorsese, Kubrick, Hitchcock, Lynch, Tim Burton… But also, contemporary films with big productions that can be found in platforms like Netflix, Filmin, or HBO.
Where do you think art and design are most appreciated? Based on salaries, the United States, whatever the field. The US pays higher salaries than Europe. However, in Mexico and Argentina, there are even lower salaries, though I’m seeing really good artists, specially, muralists. In Europe, I’d say that art and design are specially appreciated in the United Kingdom, The Netherlands, and Germany.
Do you think Spain is your place? Yes, I think the best thing about illustration is that you can do your job wherever you like. And I believe that the more you travel, the more you cherish the details of your own country.
Which is your long-term goal? To continue developing myself in the field of illustration. I mut say that I’ve chewing over the idea of animation. Concerning my personal life, I’d like to move to the outskirts in the future. Now, social changes having increased and remote jobs having reached a peak, young people is more likely to leave the city. Spain has many other hidden corners, besides Madrid and Barcelona.
If you could have dinner with any artist, dead or alive, who would it be? Mmm…, I have many in my mind, but if I tell you the first one that pops in my head, it is either Goya or El Greco. Both are geniuses beyond their time, it would be amusing to chat with them.
Places to meet
By Ana Pérez
During this peculiar summer, we have changed our priorities; we are looking more lovingly at the places and the destinations our own geography has to offer. In the light of this idea, we find restaurants and rooftop bars with a shared quality: they make us feel at ease. Each of these places give us many reasons to visit them and discover their charms.
La Postrería
In La Coruña, a restaurant called La Postrería offers a careful selection of products in which sustainability prevails. Thereby rendering an enjoyable and entertaining menu that specializes in desserts and other sweet foods. La Postrería’s dishes are as captivating as the décor of each corner of this place.
Lolita Tapería Lolita Tapería is a must while visiting Barcelona. This place is located in San Antoni quarter and it serves the famous ‘tapas’ but with a personal touch. It’s the perfect old style rabble pub where you can eat over the bar or on the tables. The “Vermuteo”- to enjoy drinking vermouth beverages- is widely appreciated at Lolilta Tapería over the weekends as well as doing so in this pub’s traditional terrace.
The Duke
Islands are always a good destination and in Palma de Mallorca we find The Duke that offers a relaxed and funny environment filled with colors that reflects the owner’s love for surfing. Its menu fuses flavors from all over the world that make you discover the best beaches while chasing great waves.
San Francisco Bar Inside Ses Salines Natural Park, in Ibiza, there is a restaurant called San Francisco Bar crammed with amazing views. It has a varied homemade food menu in which the most elaborate and delicious dishes go hand in hand with those least elaborate. A place with the most desirable location to enjoy the environment and the wonderful light of this island.
Pe rsona
By Ana laura oliveira
T
his Anthology of short films was first released in 2019 and though it went unnoticed in the western world, its theme and rendition could be considered timeless and boundless. Who would dare say that human nature’s interrogate could be settled in four short films (or episodes) of twenty minutes each? It turns out it is impossible, so instead of answering the interrogate, “Persona” tries to bring up questions that can hardly be answered. But, isn’t it that the aim of any good work? Persona gathers South-Korean directors Jeon Go Woon, Kim Jong Kwan, Lee Kyoung Mi and Yim Pil Sung with the famous actress and singer IU (Lee Ji Eun) who gives life to four different protagonists. This project allows directors to express their own distinctive views of the world, while for IU this turns into an opportunity to show her skills as an actress and take them to another level, and to start this project with a clearer artistic goal as opposed to her lasts projects. The short film is divided in four episodes that navigate through emotions such as love, jealousy, rivalry, friendship, death, and pain in an admirable way, though each episode is defined by a sheer individuality that makes them clearly different from one another and singular in their on way. In addition, the style of each director influences the way in which each theme is dealt with, this way, episodes “Love Set” (by Lee Kyoung Mi) and “Kiss Burn” (by Jeon Go Woon) play with humour (the former by trying to use that humour to discomfort the audience and the latter simply relies on dark humour). On the other hand, the remaining two episodes “Collector” (by Yim Pil Sung) and “Walking at Night” (by Kim Jong Kwan) put down roots in the land of fantasy, dreams and poetry. . While “Collector” and “Walking at Night” are the favorites of the audience, “Love Set” and “Kiss Burn” are still worthy of our attention. “Love Set” more than any of them for the reason that it appears to be simple with a direct theme and cliché metaphors but it provides the anthology with more layers of meaning than expected at the beginning. In “Love Set” we come across a young and spoiled IU who pretentiously faces her father’s fiancé, Adre (Bae Doona: Cloud Atlas, Sense8) in a tennis match that will end up deciding their future lives. There is an interesting use of metafiction that should put our guard up: characters share names with those of the actresses who interpret them. This way, if IU wins (which IU?), Doona must forget about the wedding; But, if Doona wins, IU is the one who has to forget about her childish possessive relation with her father. However, this conflict conceals millions of feelings, resentments and underlying interpretations; and it is possible that the feelings of jealousy, clearly portrayed at the beginning, could bring about an outcome that was not expected initially. Each episode can make sense on its own, but together they make of this project something greatly interesting; in the end, human emotions cannot be totally encapsulated in 90 minutes, much less in 20 minutes. Fortunately, Netflix has already made the necessary arrangements for a second season.
Euphoria has broken all the rules of conventional beauty. The wonderful makeups of this HBO show are trending and expectations surrounding the series are undeniable. Warning: it is nearly impossible to watch Euphoria, HBO’s praised show staring Zendaya that became a phenomenon last summer, without makeup style catching your eyes.
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uphoria has made use of makeup to tell stories that have never been told before on TV: stories in which makeup is the protagonist and it is in the spotlight. Not only does it show that it can be worn to hide insecurities and conceal imperfections but also to have fun, to play with it and most importantly to express your style or identity. Makeup artists Doniella Davy (@donni.davy) and Kirsten Sage Coleman (@ kirinrider) created each look alongside the actors and used makeup to voice traits of character’s personalities that could not be conveyed through dialogues or costume design. Their work embodies a fascinating representation of Geneneration Z’s intagram accounts, Twiggy’s style from the late 60’s, Nina Simone’s bejeweled- eyebrow look, and glamrock moments of the 70’s. “GenZ is utterly redefining what makeup can and must do by embracing total freedom of expression and challenging beauty and makeup rules”, says Davy. Undoubtedly, the goal of these makeup artists has been successfully achieved; each character’s makeup flows perfectly through each story arc. We observe deep colors and textures during strongly emotional scenes and clear and plain looks to reflect vulnerability and calmness. Each look is completely different and always comprises something extraordinary. Some of the most popular looks shown in Euphoria include jewels. For example, fake diamonds and cat eye makeup have turn into Maddy’s (Alexa Demie) signature look, whose fierce personality is demonstrated through her makeup and costume design. Another one of her looks includes gold chains applied as eyeliner to let the audience know
she is not afraid to take risks. Color is also very important for the makeup design of the show. Eyeshadows and glitter - and daring- eyeliner have been seen in many characters, but for Jules’ character (Hunter Schafer), specifically, makeup gains a more artistic approach by playing with forms and by drawing with eyeliner. Her eye makeup is practically a work of art. Makeup artists certainly took into account characters’ personalities to create the looks of the characters of the show by trying to make their outside appearances coincide with how they feel inside. Jules’ (Hunter Schafer) free spirit, Cassie’s (Sydney Sweeney) innocence, Maddy’s (Alexa Demie) fierceness, Rue’s (Zendaya) depression and Kat’s (Barbie Ferreira) insecurities are all expressed through makeup. In addition, the show has proved to have an enormous impact on the looks that we are checking out on Instagram (#EuphoriaMakeup hashtag has built up to more than 42k posts), on YouTube, on red carpets, and now on runways, (like the impact New York Fashion week has on designers such as Anna Sui, Cynthia Rowley, Marc Jacobs, Pyer Moss and more). And, that is not all, the show has been recently nominated to an Emmy Award for Outstanding Contemporary Makeup, non-prosthetic. It’s fantastic to see how a TV show can stir things up in the way people approach to their own appearances and encourage them to try new things.
E u p h Euphoria o r i a By Ir
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E l E fecto
By Marta MoraTo
Molly Goddard
How to be a princess for a day? Oversized silhouettes, kilometers of tulle and romantic shapes. A conflicting combination for a conflicting woman. Princess-like dresses that can be worn with a matching pair of sporty trainers and that can be cleaned in the washer. At the age of 30, Molly Goddard has recently become one of the most talented persons in Britain. Since she set her feet in London Fashion Week back in 2014, her popularity has extraordinarily skyrocketed. Influenced by British punk 60’s style, Goddard has learnt to dissociate fashion from old-fashioned concepts and she has made of her fashion shows something more than just a presentation: models on bare-feet dancing, drinking and even smoking. Models smile. Brands such as Gucci or Versace have already done it. And now, Molly Goddard has become part of the magical world of fashion with a message; it’s just that using something as influential as fashion is both powerful and unusual. Goddard has already been crowned as the mother of feminism in fashion; and not for expressing approval of drugs, as some have said, but for what she has accomplished. Women, drink and smoke and can dress up as princesses if they like to. Everything at the same time. Artists such as Rihanna and Zendaya have already chosen the designer. Throughout her yet short professional career, Goddard’s success has been reflected in awards such as the British Fashion Awards for “British Emerging Talent”, which she won in 2016. She was also one of the final
candidates for the LVMH, awarded to young talents in 2017. Finally, in 2018, Killing Eve’s protagonist wore one of Goddard’s dresses and made her popularity soar. In Goddard’s first collections, the artist wanted to show a young, naïve and rebel woman. However, in her last collections, her designs have evolved towards a self-confident, romantic, and sexy woman without leaving behind the rebelliousness reflected in her dresses that make them stand out from the others.
Although her collections will continue evolving, her style will always be groundbreaking. It is hard to develop new changes when emerging in such a startling way; it is hard to make changes without someone being disappointed, and it is hard to expect that those changes will still be regarded as unique and mind-boggling. And that is why Molly Goddard’s work has succeed since day one; Her dresses will never cease to amaze us but always in different ways.
carlos mondeja @cmon deja
samretouch POST PRODUCTION IMAGE www.sam retouch.com