As digital natives inherit the earth, guide the fashion industry and evolve codes of style, we attempt to identify, understand and create capsule collections to appeal to Modern Tribes and our Egos
In
today’s society we see people from all walks of life with a smartphone in hand and attentions transfixed to the screen; it’s the norm.com. We prefer to exist online with social exchange rather than preserve our existence by looking up to avoid oncoming traffic. Whether looking at Facebook, Instagram, Twitter or Tumblr it appears that we and our egos exist more online than they do in the physical world around us. At Raffles we observe how fashion and styles are brought to market through digital exchange overnight. From the minute we wake, surrendering to the snooze button, to preparing to catch some z’s, faces lit only by touch screens, all of us are consuming content from morning till night. We only need mention Mc Moschino SquarePants or Supermarché Chanel as viral wildfire from 2014 that highlight this instantaneous exchange. But what does this viral exchange mean for future styles? Some trends feature in the flash of a pan, yet others unite modern style tribes on an international platform. This social exchange is subtle. It is not tribal as with the old connotations of the word, yet like ancient tribes we admire the subtle signs we see, we engrave fashion symbols on our walls and feeds and we feel united with those that depict similar motifs and images. We unite with tribe members from the likes, follows, hashtags, pin and @’s we use. Fashion and styles are being created and curated by bloggers, apps and pack members and as ‘digital-natives’ inherit the earth, the fashion industry and social codes of style, these means of social exchange will become forever more relevant. Raffles 2014 House Show takes collections from a pool of international designers and fashions them to appeal to the Future Style Tribes of tomorrow…
So for the next 60 pages of content we are asking you
‘don’t keep your eyes only on your mobile phone’. Unless reading online :D
Enjoy the show
Thomas Empson Creative Director
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Meet the Judges
08 GlobalTRIBES 22 The Ego
the life of an intern
38 Urban TRIBES INTERVIEW WITH NINA ON VoGMASK COLLECTION
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Contributors
58 Editors: Thomas Empson and Stefรกn A.R. Orschel-Read
Sponsors
Art Director: Jana Dambekalne
Contributing Editor: Krisha Sia
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Meredith Sherwood
Designer – Women’s Knits and Sweaters DKNY JEANS International After graduating from Marist College in New York, Meredith worked for 4 years as a knitwear designer for youth oriented fashion brands, such as Free People. Meredith then worked for luxury lifestyle cashmere brand Magaschoni in NYC for another 4 years. For the last 2 years Meredith has worked as a designer for DKNY JEANS International.
Andres Throckmorton Stickney Creative Design Manager Brilliant Global Ltd
Andres Throckmorton Stickney, and his prior company DRES, has shown numerous times with Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in both New York and Los Angeles. Andres has worked with major international designer labels Ralph Lauren, TSE, COACH, and independent New York labels Benjamin Cho, Zaldy and Alexander Wang. Today Andres works at Brilliant, part of Li & Fung Corporation, as a creative sweater design manager.
Matt Banks
Head of Visual Merchandising (China & South East Asia) H&M (Hennes & Mauritz) Matt has worked with H&M for over ten years, starting in London as an area visual and progressing through the ranks. Matt now heads up a team of 500 visual creatives within Asia. He is responsible for overseeing the creative presence of over 200 stores ensuring brand consistency and growth. Before a career in retail Matt completed a Degree (BA Honours) in Fashion Photography and went on to assisting photographic assignments for British GQ Magazine and British Vogue.
Kristin Yeung
Fashion Designer – Head of Casual Lux Moiselle Group
Kristin graduated from Central Saint Martins with a BA (Honours) in Fashion Design with Marketing. Kristin worked for several luxury brands such as Alexander McQueen, Vivienne Westwood and Burberry in the UK before bringing her fashion career back to Hong Kong. After undertaking a few roles in the industry she now works at Moiselle as the Head of Casual Lux as the brand continues to expand across the Asia Pacific region.
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I am very proud to present the exciting work from ten of Raffles Hong Kong’s fashion design students at Hong Kong Fashion Week. These collections are the result of huge amounts of labour. The designers have worked for many months (with countless sleepless nights) to produce them. It has been my privilege to be there, with them, throughout the process, providing guidance, honest critique and care. All the collections stemmed from one initial keyword: Identity. The biggest success in fashion is to understand one’s own distinctive identity and to produce work that expresses this. Each of us is totally unique; if our designs are able to capture this, we begin to foster an exclusive design signature. This in turn can grow to become a recognisable brand identity. Studying fashion design is a commendable decision. It is a degree that teaches much more than to just draw, draft, drape and sew. It teaches one to perceive and analyse the world in a different way. One must look to contextualise our environment, understanding the dynamics of the past, the flux of the contemporary and possibilities of the future.
Photographer: Gabrielle Salonga Creative Director: Krisha Sia Photoshoot Manager and Stylist: Nicole Macario Hair and Make-up: Marcella Efendy Models: Camelia Raji at Sun Esee, Blair and Zlata Graphic Designers: Peony Wong, Jethro Yuen and Luna Wang
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“
“
We have arrived:
You ask from whence the thunder came,
A sound so loud it could not be tamed, We may have journeyed quite too long But now we are here, so hear our song.
Garments from left to right: Tommy Chong, Eva Choi, Tommy Chong Shoes: Micheal Antonio
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Garment: Rickyy Wong
Garment: Rickyy Wong Shoes: Michael Antonio
Garment: Rickyy Wong
Garments: Chu Tin Lok Tina Shoes: Michael Antonio
Garments: Chu Tin Lok Tina Shoes: Michael Antonio
Garment: Grace CY Lam
www.notjustalabel.com/evachoi
Liberation Eva Choi
Hong Kong
A three-pound organ of soft nervous muscle that sits in between our ears is responsible for the three key functions of human behaviour – thoughts, emotions and actions. We acquire the ability to process data, generate thoughts and speak up. While we all have a similar thought process, it does not mean we all rationalize the same beliefs. This is why debates and disputes are so prevalent in this diverse society we live in. Religion - one of the major arguments of yesterday, today and tomorrow. Some are agnostic; others are firm and passionate believers. The list goes on and on for the philosophical debates on faith. The practice of Gnosticism is just one of them. With the clashes and the conflicts, Eva Choi decided to combine the concept with clothing. The scuffling and squabbling of colours mirror the opposing opinions regarding religion. The hues that represent different views intentionally contradict the collection’s shapes. While the shades are strewed, the structures are symmetrical. The modern cuts and innovative structures highlight the garments. Despite this juxtaposition, there remains harmony amid the apparel. The clothes have monumental qualities – long, lean and architectural.
“My garments represent the concept that what we have experienced in the past determines what we believe in now.”
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Buccaneers sail far and wide across the seas to find buried treasure; Detectives scrutinize the smallest of details to solve the most inexplicable mysteries; Miners dig through innermost tunnels to acquire the finest diamond. Each individual travels the distance in search for their treasure. The truth is one does not have to voyage so far to attain such rewards. Within us is where we find all wonders. Aristotle once said, “Knowing yourself is the beginning of all wisdom.” This is a quandary that people try to solve all their lives. Tina, lost and found herself in the journey for self-discovery.
“I can be good and bad at the same time.” Inspired by this distinct feature of her persona, Tina creates a diverse collection: “Four garments, ten different looks.” Each garment is designed to be worn in multiples ways; the garment could be worn with the hem at the neckline, or turned fully inside out; each interchange brings a new silhouette. Browns, blues and earthy colours create a serene blend to the designs. Modish patterns and embroidery accentuate the multifarious dresses. Each one is distinct and different. From dawn to dusk, the sky-like prints chart Tina’s own journey.
Heaven's Music Chu tin lok tina united Kingdom
www.notjustalabel.com/tinachu 17
‘No man is an island’. Many believe that ‘we have two eyes, two ears, two hands and two feet but only one heart because the other was given to someone else for us to find’. Many of us have experienced first-hand how difficult this quest it. Is it possible for each individual to find their other half? Numbers stack up against us. Some live with wishful thinking, wanting and waiting while the lucky ones find their happy ever after. If we could inhabit the paintings of perfect love by John-Honoré Fragonard, life would be vivid and vibrant. Fragonard created an oeuvre of the quest for love. His sequence of paintings, ‘The
Progress of Love’ is the embodiment of a perfect commitment. Evident from the title, it charts the stages of love – from budding flirtation to blossoming matrimony. This series of four paintings was one of the most powerful evocations of love in the history of art. It enthused many to want to be in love or evolve an even deeper love. Rickyy Wong is one of them. Stemming from his own trials of love comes a collection - charting disloyalty to desire. Following Fragonard, Wong depicts his encounters with love, the sweet and the bitter, into garments that portray
La Soif de L'amour rickyy wong Hong Kong www.notjustalabel.com/rickyywong 18
entrapment, betrayal and a love lost. Bright hues reflect the spark of hope and yearning. Inspired by the classic fiction of affection, Wong creates garments that mirror his emotions and aspirations.
“This time I want to find love. That’s what I’ve been looking for.”
www.notjustalabel.com/tinachu
___ in the Multiverses
Chu tin lok tina united Kingdom
Which statement is more probable? Is it that the universe was designed just for us? Or that we naively perceive the universe as being designed only for us? In trying to understand and find the answers to the how’s and why’s of life, we come up with various notions. Many claim to ‘look no further’ as they have found the answers to the universe. What about what lies beyond? The possibilities are endless. One after the other, concepts surfaced aiming to explain these. From a sole universe to several of them, a plausible point was developed: Our universe may not be alone. There could be an infinite number of universes that comprise a multiverse and ours is just one of them. Although the notion of a ‘multiverse’ may lean towards the incredulous, there are a number of theories that pointed out its probability – The Infinite Universe, the Bubble Universe, the Parallel Universe, the Daughter Universe and the Mathematical Universe. All these pertain to one idea; we live in a multiverse. Impressed with these scientific theories, Tina turned this idea into an inspiration for her collection. Taken from infinite existences to individual elements, she creates quasi-cosmic clothing. The collection mimics ‘out-of-this-world’ with its design theory.
“Inspired by the theories of the multiverses, I adopted elements from each and turned them into designs.”
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www.notjustalabel.com/tommychong
White Noise
tommy chong Hong Kong
Are zodiacs linked with our personalities? Do they define who we are? There are approximately seven billion human beings; there are twelve zodiac signs. If the total population in this world is divided by the number of signs, we arrive at six hundred million people. Is it plausible to share the same attributes and attitudes with the six hundred million? Could we say that all Libras are quiet and that Geminis are defiant? Inspired by the inherent rebelliousness of Geminis, Tommy Chong yields a collection for both genders. His unisex garments exhibit Gemini-like characteristics from subtle fabrics to unflinching features.
“Geminis have strong characteristics; I created garments that demonstrate a state of constant flux to match their duality.� Chong borrows certain elements from Chronic Depression and its treatment. Contrary to the striking shapes and silhouettes, a subtle achromatic contrast is used. This contrast is a depiction of Gemini’s twofold personality.
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Beauty is lost for people that know they have it and assume that everybody does as well. Narcissism is the pursuit of gratification from vanity. This concept of excessive egotism has been recognized throughout history. This originated in the Greek myth of Narcissus – a handsome man whose love was solely for himself, which resulted in his own demise. Oscar Wilde’s novel A Portrait of Dorian Gray also reviews this concept of a young gentleman’s demise for the quest of everlasting beauty. The narrative of the story was a strong influence in Lam’s exploration of design.
“When we see beauty there is always a glimpse of ugliness.” Grace Lam creates Constance, a collection of experimental eveningwear. An array of blacks and undertones mirror muted opulence and decadence. Exploring the juncture of where vanity and the grotesque entwine, she creates an interpretation of herself through her collection. Incorporating leather, hair and silk with 6,000 hand-crafted embellishments, Lam explores the essence of her identity and individuality.
Constance
Grace CY Lam canada
www.notjustalabel.com/gracecylam 21
Photographer: Andrea Pun Creative Director: Thomas Empson Stylist: Elie Yoon Hair and Make-up: FaceSlap Models: Ilze, Karina and Carmela Graphic Designers: Chloe Wong, Ringo Ho and Janice Lee
The Ego The manifestation of our identity conceived from what we perceive others think of us; to embark on a journey of self-discovery can take us to great depths. Accessing the id can unlock our bodily needs, desires and impulses. To scratch the surface of the ego can give access to deep-rooted illusions. Whatever layers we unveil of our unique attributes, be them fantasy or reality, they can be the source of true inspiration.
Garments: Rickyy Wong Shoes: Michael Antonio Jewellery: Joanique
Garments: Trixie Pratiwi Shoes: Michael Antonio
Garments: Trixie Pratiwi Rings: Nomera Bracelet: Lextia
Garments: Trixie Pratiwi Shoes: Michael Antonio Jewellery: Joanique
Garment: Rickyy Wong Shoes: Michael Antonio
Garment: Nina Griffee Turban: ShopFloorWhore
Garments: Resham Moorjani Jewellery: Marijoli (Marielle Byworth)
“And that is how change happens. One gesture. One person. One moment at a time.” Libba Bray It is said that “If you don’t like something, change it” and “You must be the change you wish to see in the world”. These quotes from prophetic people all relay one ideal message. Resham Moorjani desired to take this in to practise. “Indian style has its ways, particular clothing that sticks to the same style but they change the design or shape. I wanted to move away from the status quo and bring an Indian aesthetic to merge with an elegant occidental style. I want 32
somebody from The West to adore my garments and wear something that is me.” With her modern take on Indian styles of clothing, Resham designed for elegant, elite and empowered women. She incorporates the traditional by fusing cultural and spiritual aspects to her collection. Her prints are inspired by how light passes through ‘Jali’, see-through cuts in stone architecture. “It’s exactly like spirituality; because there is darkness, but with a little bit of light, even the smallest gaps can be taken over to create things that are very beautiful to look at from the shadows.”
She explained. “I wanted to take my cultural and spiritual background and put it in my clothes in a way that was not obvious, but was… there.” Moorjani takes these key elements and interprets them through her own prints and choice of fabrics. The use of sheer fabrics, akin to Jali, contrasting with digital printed fabrics, is a representation of the Rajasthanis. The blend of ‘soft and hard’ mirrors how they are delicate yet strong. The mix yields a cosmopolitan collection. There is a careful consideration of the combination of flattering unprovocative silhouettes and prevalent use of prints.
Art is how we say what we cannot say. It can be used to record expressions and emotions through creation. Ancient Egyptian art forms record a vast array of information. They were carefully crafted to last a lifetime, and longer; intended to provide solace to the deceased, since it was believed that the arts would bring pleasure in the afterlife. “I wanted to take the finesse in Egyptian art to my designs. I hoped to understand the emotions and expressions behind the art work and capture this in my garments.� Trixie Pratiwi took Egyptian craftsmanship as her starting point. Her creations are formed from shades of greens, bronzes and golds, as much artwork dating from this period was composed from these hues. The bias-cut dresses with wasp waists and subtle silhouettes are immaculately constructed to represent the perfection of Egyptian workmanship.
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Lifeless Psyche, awakened with a kiss, slowly reaches up to her lover, Cupid, as he gently grasps her in his arms. This moment of great emotion was a representation of Rickyy Wong’s past – a story of love and betrayal. From Italian sculptor Antonio Canova’s ‘Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss’, Wong’s collection ‘L’amour de Trahison’ was created. The soft, draped styles in the collection embody Canova’s myth and Wong’s memoir. Asymmetrical seam lines and silhouettes mirror brokenness caused by a relinquished vow. Toned down hues and blues explore melancholic remorse of regretful actions. Linking Rococo and Renaissance art to his life, he consciously betrays each by cross-pollinating key elements, effectively deceiving Renaissance by engaging in poignant passion towards Rococo. Wong recently showcased ‘L’amour de Trahison’ in Guangzhou.
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Fantasy is a huge canvas on which you have the freedom to paint. “I am a person who is able to interact with dolls and treat them as equivalent to a human… However, I still know the boundaries between peculiarity and reality.” From narrative to fashion, Trixie Pratiwi brings her dolls to life through her designs. Using smooth flax fabric with hazy hues and abstracted patterns, she aims to create a tangible fantasy. The blurred colours exemplify this unfamiliar perception of imagination. Whether this resplendent reverie may be a realm of sprites or a kingdom of dolls, the possibilities are unbounded. This unrestricted world of illusion is where we may lose ourselves for a little while. During these moments, we are able to be who we want to be and experience what may seem to be out of reach. However, what if they are actually within our reach? A fantasy can certainly advance into a reality.
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Vincent Li, who graduated from Raffles in early 2014, ventured to the UK under the arrangement of the school, to undertake an internship at J.W.ANDERSON as part of his Fashion Design qualification. I worked at the studio, which included sampling, pattern making, production and archiving. The role required multi-skills, fast learning, attentiveness, and flexibility. The studio swapped interns around on a weekly basis in order to help them experience different types of jobs; all great exposure for his future career. The first few days I was assigned to the production department. Since it was just 36
after the SS 2014 men’s fashion show the company had huge orders coming in. The department required manpower to meet the deadline. It was labour intensive. I remember that I had to work non-stop from morning until 11PM on my second day, but it was great to be part of the reactive mayhem. Coincidentally a junior designer was looking for someone who could speak and write in Chinese while a colleague was on holiday. I had to make contact with the factory in China to coordinate the shoes for the SS 2014 womenswear runway. Since I was able to get the job done quickly, I gained trust from the junior designer from my first day. I was the only
intern responsible for contacting the China factory, sourcing and researching on the shoes. It also led to an opportunity to work closer on illustrations for the design office later in the internship. After my first few days in production, I was swapped to the sampling room. At the beginning of the new collection, I helped to make samples based on inspiration inputs. Then everything would be packed, labelled, and kept in house. They were used for putting the entire collection together. I did three samples within two days, and also tried different widths of stitching, and French seams on pleated fabric. As an intern, I needed to learn studio rules, such as cutting instructions, pattern-making instructions, the usage of
ironing and heat pressers, usage of proper hangers, packing different trims, sample trackers, delivery notes, and instructions on answering the phones. After two weeks of working in the sampling room and in production, I had a new assignment to work with an illustrator and a knitwear designer. The tasks included drawing initial sketches of the collections, details of the sampling, and editing that season’s technical specifications. Week by week, I was given more designs to do, such as knitwear, logo developments, sweater layouts, and scarf designs. The whole experience of designing scarfs was particularly enjoyable. I did over 80 designs for scarf pattern, by
manipulating the J.W.ANDERSON logo to create new patterns. During the several trials on the shoe samples, where designs were changed constantly, I was given a massive research assignment on shoe suppliers, pricing, sizes, and even styles. The requirements of the research were constantly changing. Since I had no experience in sampling, occasionally my confidence was low, especially on a particular fitting day. I felt I was not fast enough, and couldn’t respond quickly enough. I was than assigned back to the studio, sourcing fabrics and trims, delivering material, fabric or patterns. These
assignments introduced me to all the company’s suppliers in London. It was a rare opportunity for a fashion design student to gain insight about the industry. At J.W.ANDERSON, daily work was always at a speedy pace. Interns learnt on the job and needed to learn quickly. I would love to have worked at J.W.ANDERSON for longer than three months. It was an excellent experience to learn about all parts of such an influential design label. I learnt many creative aspects of design, how to respond to professional challenges and the nature of the constantly changing industry.
Vincent Li 37
URBAN
TRIBES
Within us all lays the desire to define or invoke a subculture; a modern tribe that shares our ideologies amidst the tide of mainstream culture. In urban areas, many individual micro groups rise up through the status quo to make a stance, bound by their similar views. In the strive to be understood, these urban tribes redefine fashion, styles and trends; part of a commitment to be understood as a collective force for change‌
Photographer: Andrea Pun Creative Direction: Mariya Shabanova Stylist: Tanushree Chatterjee Hair and Make-up: FaceSlap Models: Filip, Matt and Vika Graphic Designers: Jennifer Chan, Karen Siu and Irish Camille
Garments: Natjira
Garment: :8CUFF by Sue Suh
Garment (from left to right): Rassana Rasheva and Natjira Shoes: Michael Antonio
Garment: Vincent Li
Garment: Nina Griffee Shoes: Michael Antonio
Garments: Natjira
Garments: (from left to right) Kate Zokh and Rassana Rasheva Shoes: Michael Antonio
Fighting The Brain Alone Natjira, Thailand
www.notjustalabel.com/natjira
Imperfections are what make us unsullied. These flaws are what make us individual. Natjira turns anomalies into advantages by creating garments that focus heavily on construction techniques. Natjira’s menswear collection focuses upon the middle point of Bipolar disorder, when the hyper manic and depression episodes struggle against each other. The moment where these two states fight to remain stable is developed into geometric plackets, yokes and cuts. Asymmetric triangular waves fluctuating up and down symbolizes the shifts of one’s moods and attitudes. A combination of subtle and strong hues accentuates the denim garments.
I not only want to design and make garments, but I would also like to have customers that are oversized or underweight that don’t know how to look good in some clothes or might not be able to purchase clothes that are sold in stores. I want to cater to social misfits.
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Forever Enthralled Vincent Li, Australia
www.notjustalabel.com/vincentli
We dwell among disguises – from extrovert costumes to the imperceptible make-up cover-ups, these external facades are perceived by the naked eye. Do we always accurately analyse the internal pretences that lay beneath this surface? Everything is not always what it seems. Through repetition and rehearsals, many are masters of makebelieve. In 1909 an icon emerged from this mastery: Mei Lanfang. His portrayal was an exceptional skill, an expertise. His perfectly timed, poised, pretensions of female characters made Peking Opera more pleasing. He was one of the Great Dan during the golden era of Peking Opera. Three of this icon’s most iconic opera performances, “The Drunken Beauty”, “Yu Zhou Feng” and “Peony Pavilion”, are mirrored through silhouettes, details and prints. Vincent Li fuses the aesthetics of drunkenness, madness and dreaminess through a blend of mistycoloured materials, loose-woven linen and softened silhouettes. Styles incline towards ambigender. Established rules of menswear are bent as Li explores movement in his work. “As a menswear designer, I am always inspired by different forms of arts since I used to dance during my childhood and also grew up in China. My collections often reflect the East Asian aesthetics and philosophies, and are more theatrical. For Vincent Li menswear, it adds softness and gentleness into classical menswear. It will always represent the feelings of poetry, theatre, and fantasy.”
Inspired by Mei Lanfang’s art spirit and the metaphors he used, I utilized contrasting shapes and abstract prints to create a new balance in this collection for contemporary men.
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Minute and Far Away Natjira, Thailand
www.notjustalabel.com/natjira
FEAR diverges into two paths – Forget Everything And Run or Forget Everything And Rise. However we cannot escape from our fears forever. The key is bravery. Scott Fitzgerald’s “The Great Gatsby” epitomized the notion of fears and feign. His novel is a highly symbolic reflection of 1920’s America, particularly in the decline of the American Dream. Excessive power and extravagant gatherings exemplified the American way of life. Yet the tables had turned after World War I. The Great Depression led to many losing everything. They had neither wealth nor land. Boxing became an important social phenomenon during this period. It allowed men to display their masculinity, not through wealth and conspicuous consumption, but through physical prowess. “Inspired by social actions, I created a menswear collection to give skinny boys a more masculine appearance just by wearing the garments.” The decline of the American Dream is displayed in shades of greens and greys, the colours of corporate and individual wealth. The silhouettes focus on portraying virility and strength.
This is a representation of myself. I’m not weaker than anyone else. If I am, I wouldn’t show it on the outside.
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Villete
Rassana Rasheva, Kazakhstan
Human beings by nature are programmed to keep certain desires a secret. Panoptic pressure causes us to internalise those aspects of ourselves that are deemed socially unacceptable. Rassana Rasheva’s collection takes its inspiration from Coelho’s novel “Veronika Decides to Die”. The collection’s central premise is that if one is declared medically insane, then society’s seal of silence is lifted and one can be free to externalise secrets, fetishes and desires. “Everybody has a story to tell and secrets to confess” says Rasheva. She combines symmetric and asymmetric silhouettes on loose-fitting garments created in leathers and jerseys. Abstract digital prints are created from lost passport photographs that Rasheva had been collecting covertly throughout her life. The collection is minimalistic but with carefully considered twists.
No one can lie; no one can hide anything, when he looks directly into someone’s eyes. Paulo Coelho
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Watchmen
:8CUFF by Sue Suh, South Korea
www.8cuff.com
All societies contain a polarity of benevolence and villainy. Fair justice and crime are always at odds. This interplay also exists within the worlds created in graphic novels. The sole difference is that in those worlds the heroes always triumph. Sue Suh of :8CUFF chose the graphic novel “Watchmen” to explore for her collection. “Watchmen” is unique within the genre for its portrayal of immoral antiheroes. Suh creates uncompromising visuals from found images and her own paintings on the subject of corruption. Structured symmetrical shapes form the Sports-Lux collection, with emphases on strong features including the usage of neoprene, leathers and techno-textiles, in jackets that utilize innovative construction techniques so that they hold their own exaggerated proportions around and above the body.
I believe that the good and the bad inevitably coexist in our lives. I interpreted my thoughts and views on this matter in the design of the graphic prints.
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Vladivostok Vacation Kate Zokh, Russia
www.notjustalabel.com/katezokh
Movement is fundamental in life, both physical and metaphoric – Taking our first step as a child, walking to assert our independence and running to achieve a goal, our calling or destiny. Remaining constant will not bring opportunities. One must take a leap of faith to achieve a destination. From the north east down to the South China Sea, Kate Zohk journeyed from Russia to Hong Kong, via Thailand, Singapore and Shanghai. Despite the changes, she carries a part of her background through to her designs. Her menswear collection is encoded with information about her hometown, Vladivostok. It is one of the largest ports in Russia. Zohk takes elements from mariners and integrates them into her garments. An array of nautical stripes and marine-like hues represent her city. She combines the old and the new by taking key elements of Russia in the 90’s and “Vladivostok 3000”, a contemporary novel set in a Post-Soviet utopian version of Vladivostok, by Ilya Lagutenko, the frontman of Russian rock band Mumiy Troll. Following these inspirations, Zokh creates a CoutureStreetwear collection that employs the use of tiger prints and hand embroidery. Lugatenko is a campaigner for the preservation of tigers. The juxtaposition of eclectic prints and an unconventional colour scheme is exhibited across garments that are both functional and capricious.
…Vladivostok is unique and there is no other place like this.
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Air Purifying Apparel: Designed for the Future by Krisha Sia
Fusing fashion and function are the primary focuses for Nina Griffee’s debut collection ‘Careful Creatures’. As a fashion designer who studies at Raffles Hong Kong, we eagerly await her collaboration with Vogmask at Hong Kong Fashion Week. “Mixing masks with clothing was a logical idea for me”, states Griffee. Along with Vogmask, the producers of high-efficiency and reusable filtered face masks, Nina designs a fashion-forward collection suitable for city dwellers in urban areas where pollution has reached the extreme. What was the inspiration for your collection? Living in Beijing for five years made me more aware of the levels of pollution in certain areas of the world. Throughout the years I have lived there; I have observed the public become more conscious of the dangers, now you can see many people wearing masks to protect them from the air. Since masks are now arguably a necessity, I wanted to design a range of apparel that incorporates these protective masks into the design. I contacted Vogmask, leaders in this field. They were super excited at my concept and we are now working in partnership to bring this collection to the fashion industry.
masks, so I made a point to use breathable fabrics.
What is it like in Beijing?
What sets you apart as a designer?
Beijing is a culturally rich city in the heart of China. The city moves at a faster pace than most cities I have visited or lived in. The city is growing rapidly and every year brings new businesses and exciting events. It is natural that fast developing countries would have a pollution problem – in the past the United Kingdom, as well as many others, have had the same issue.
There are many fashion designers and much waste is created from this industry. As a designer I hope be set apart from this and bring clothes that are more considerate to the world – clothes that do more than just satisfy an afternoon of shopping – to consider the needs of the wearer and the habitat they live in.
Can you give a one-liner to describe their style?
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What led you to the design field?
I cannot – style in China is so varied and moving at such a pace it is impossible to simplify it in just one line.
My first passion as a creative was as a face and body painter as well as a make-up artist. I began to study fashion as I wanted to translate my painting and artwork into something more tangible
What kinds of fabrics did you use for your collection?
Why did you choose to study at Raffles?
I used a blend of cottons and dry fit fabric. This collection is fairly sporty, I know how stuffy it gets when wearing scarves, jackets or
Raffles is a mix of many cultures; I get to have international lecturers and study with peers from all over the world. Sharing attitudes and
ideas from all corners of the planet is an exciting prospect for me. What does fashion mean to you? I think that fashion is at the point where it needs to be approached as a considered form of invention. We don’t need to buy a new dress or skirt just because it is a new season. I think that is unnecessary and exactly how we create pollution.
If my future in the fashion industry is to be sustained, I believe we as designers must create garments for the future. 53
Fashion Marketing
Left to right: Tanushree Chatterjee, Nicolle Macario, Krisha Sia, Thomas Empson, Mariya Shabanova, Elie Yoon and Yeung Chor Ying Eirene
P
eople often ask me what is fashion marketing and there really is no simple or straight forward answer. In short you could say it’s about giving the customer what they want, when they want it and at a price that’s right, but with the global apparel industry being worth $2,500 trillion it’s somewhat more complex than that. Fashion marketing is about long-term planning, it’s about the growth of a brand and its market positioning. Marketing is one of the most fundamental parts of business and getting it right reaps rewards. At Raffles we look at all layers of fashion marketing, including; advertising, digital campaigns, visual merchandising, product portfolios, market and consumer trends, consumer research and brand management to name but a few. One of my favourite subjects to teach is brand management, 56
it’s where students get to define a brand’s personality, develop a logo and brand guidelines before planning communications to convey this personality through all channels. I think Hong Kong is one of the strongest places to study fashion marketing; it’s a retail epicentre with every brand fighting to stand out from its peers. This level of exposure fuels the mind and allows students to see the bigger picture. In my time at Raffles we have started to build up strong industry links giving students the opportunities to work on ‘live’ projects directly with industry professionals. This level of exposure is invaluable. Current students and Alumni have secured the following jobs; visual merchandiser, stylist, blogger, garment manufacturer and jewellery designer. In the future they will go on to work as marketing executives,
marketing managers, brand managers, journalists, PR managers, merchandisers, event managers or even develop their own fashion brand. It’s great to be a part of the Raffles family and be a part of the professional journey the students undertake. The execution of editorial for this magazine, the editorial shoots and various online marketing strategies are testimony to their hard work.
Thomas Empson
Fashion Marketing Lecturer
Graphic Design & Multimedia Design
From left to right: Wang Man Hin Luna, Lee Nga Yiu Janice, Fung Yan Ki Natalie, ISIP Irish Camille, Siu Man Yee Karen, Chan Kit Sum Jennifer, Yuen Tiu Ming Jethro, Wong Hiu Laam Chole, Wong Peony, Ho Wing Ko Ringo and Pang Chi Wa Louis
Multimedia Design
Chandra Halim Multimedia Department
Valerio Vigano
Multimedia Department
Jana Dambekalne
Graphic Design and Multimedia Lecturer 57
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