SALADS·

·A salad a day keeps the doctor away' is rather a vague statement, as a salad can be made of almost anything: if it includes at least a little raw produce, however, I firmly believe it, since rawfruit and vegetables as nearly as possible retain all their nutrients -I say as nearly as possible because they start to lose vitamin C as soon as they are cut. It is not only for this reason, but also because crispness and flavour progressively deteriorate after harvesting, that freshness really counts. In general it is a better idea to buy whatever seems freshest and to plan your salad round it than to decide what you want in advance.

As the case oftomatoes illustrates, however, freshness is not the only factor which determines flavour. The taste of tomatoes has suffered in the interests of quantity. The same has happened to lettuces. As one retailer puts it, the flavour of the popularvarieties has been grown out of them. Partly to counter this, the supermarkets are offering an increasing choice of the less usual kinds, for example, frisee, endive, batavia, lamb's lettuce, Butterhead and Wallop (which are traditional but until recently ignored English varieties) and several sorts of red lettuce such as Lollo Rosso, oakleaf and radiccio. Of these the most reliable in terms of flavour are probably the last two, which are respectively slightly and distinctly bitter. There are also crisp, sweet Cos and the similar but tiny Little Gem. Organically grown lettuces often also have flavour, but not always; more consistent are organic spinach and carrots, which in my experience are generally delicious.

Obviously organic produce is preferable on other grounds, particularly with regard to pesticides, which you cannot remove. For better or worse, cooking may break down some of their components but will not dissipate them; washing only cleans offsurface residues-although this helps. When possible, scrub items and rinse in running water to clear off the soapy spray with which pesticides are applied.

ConSistently with my condemnation of the majority of lettuces, I have excluded them from the recipes which follow, not because I suggest avoiding them altogether but because I recommend the more expensive sorts and feel that to use these merely as background to a mixed salad does notgive the bestvalue formoney. An oakleaforCos or (for 4) a pair of Little Gem will cost at least two-thirds more than an ordinary round summer or hot-house lettuce: to appreciate them as they deserve, serve them as a side vegetable alone or, in the case of radiccio, with other leaves. Add just chives or spring onions plus French Dressing to Cos, Little Gem or oakleaf; mix radiccio, which is chewy and stronger, with spinach and the inner leaves ofa green cabbage. In winter buy watercress and a couple ofheads ofchicory rather than lettuce: ifyou want more, try a sliced orange instead of tomatoes.

The recipes should be looked on merely as examples: give precedence to freshness and compose your own according to the ingredients available. Bear in mind, however, that not only flavour but also texture and, perhaps more than with any other type of dish, eye appeal play their part: try to contrast colours and arrange the ingredients not necessarily too carefully but interestingly. Wash (but do notcut) salad greens well in advance to give them time to drain, but do not add dressing until just before serving or they may become limp. Chicory can be chopped orthe leaves left whole (slice the centres in half); tear lettuces into bite-sized pieces.

The flavour of olive oil really matters in a salad dressing. Similarly, use wine as opposed to malt vinegar. Low-fat Lemon and Tomato Dressing is a useful alternative to French if you prefer to consume (or use) less oil.

All the salads in this chapter are substantial enough to serve as a main course.

- FRENCH DRESSING- INGREDIENTS -

4 tablespoons olive oil

I tablespoon wine vinegar (red or white)