ONE OFF TO MASS PRODUCTION
ALTERNATIVE APPROACHES TO DESIGN AND MANUFACTURING OF LUNÉVILLE HOOK
KSENIA SEMIROVA Product Design Raffles University 06.2020
A BRIEF OVERVIEW OF EMBROIDERY THE HISTORY OF TAMBOUR EMBROIDERY................ 6 LUNÉVILLE HOOK EMBROIDERY......................................................8
DESCRIPTION OF THE LUNÉVILLE TECHNIQUE........................................................................... 10 ECOLE LESAGE.................................................................... 12 TECHNIQUE IN FASHION HOUSES................................ 15
TOOLS FOR EMBROIDERY EMBROIDERY FRAME......................................................... 18 EMBROIDERY HOOK OR CROCHET.............................. 22 OTHER EMBROIDERY TOOLS.......................................... 26
USER EXPERIENCE ALSO ASPIRING EMBROIDERER........................................................32
WHO ARE THE TARGET GROUPS?..................................................34
PRODUCT DETAILED OBSERVATION............................ 40 DIMENSIONS & ERGONOMIC.......................................... 42 PROBLEM 1. ERGONOMICS OF A HANDLE.................. 44 POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS FROM OTHER
AREAS...........................................................................................................46 TEXTURED SURFACE AS A WAY TO RELIEVE
FINGERS STRESS.....................................................................................48
PROBLEM 2. DEALING WITH NEEDLES........................ 50 POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS FROM OTHER
AREAS...........................................................................................................52
PROBLEM 3. TOOL STORAGE & SAFETY..................... 54 POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS FROM OTHER
AREAS...........................................................................................................56
TOOLS OBSERVATION....................................................... 58
TYPES OF MANUFACTURING WHO MANUFACTURES NEEDLES.................................. 62
NEEDLES MANUFACTURING PROCESS....................... 64
FORM SEARCHING.............................................................. 102
CRAFT PRODUCTION......................................................... 66
CAD MODEL. VER. 01..............................................................................120
EQUIPMENT FOR CRAFT PRODUCTION.......................................68
BATCH MANUFACTURING................................................ 70 INTERVIEW WITH THE EMBROIDERY
HOOKS MANUFACTURER ...................................................................72 EQUIPMENT FOR BATCH PRODUCTION.......................................76
MASS PRODUCTION.......................................................... 78 EQUIPMENT FOR MASS PRODUCTION.........................................80
MASS CUSTOMIZATION.................................................... 82 EQUIPMENT FOR MASS CUSTOMIZATION...................................84
IDEATION PROJECT BRIEF........................................................................................88 PERSONA 1 PROFILE. ASPIRING EMBROIDERER.........................90 PERSONA 2 PROFILE.
PROFESSIONAL EMBROIDERER........................................................94 PERSONA 3 PROFILE. EMBROIDERY AS A HOBBY...................98
CAD MODEL. FINAL................................................................................128 STAND FOR HOOK..................................................................................136
MATERIALS & PRODUCTION PRIMARY MASS PRODUCTION METHODS FOR THE PRODUCT............................................................ 144 THE BEST & INNOVATIVE BATCH PRODUCTION METHOD FOR THE PRODUCT............................................................ 146 THE WAYS TO CUSTOMIZE THE PRODUCT..................................................................... 148 CRAFT ADAPTATION OF THE DESIGN.......................... 152
4
01. Francesco del Cossa Allegory of March: Triumph of Minerva (detail) 1476-84 Fresco Palazzo Schifanoia, Ferrara
5
A BRIEF OVERVIEW OF EMBROIDERY
A brief overview of embroidery
6
THE HISTORY OF TAMBOUR EMBROIDERY
It is hard to identify where the
tambour
technique
was
embroidery invented.
There are ancient examples from different places all over the world, including Greece and Russia. Most of the experts believe that tambour embroidery was originated in India with Ari work. Ari means hook in Hindu, and the technique involves creating a chain stitch using a long thin tool with a hook at the end and a wooden
Russian Dress Kasimov Museum of History and Culture Russian embroidery sample Kasimov Museum of History and Culture
Greek embroidery sample The Gallery at The Greek Institute
handle.
Ari
embroidery
traveled from Brabanki in Uttar Pradesh to Kutch in Gujarat, where cobblers first applied the technique to leather and then to the cloth. The cobblers created ornate patterns with floral and wildlife motifs that
The history of Tambour embroidery
7
were favored by the royalty of the Mughal Empire in the 16th century. Ari embroideries were exported to the Persian Gulf across the Middle East and eventually arrived in Europe in
the
18th
century,
where
fabric tightly across a frame to create the tension needed to
embroider
a
regular
chain stitch. The frame may be circular or rectangular. Tambour embroidery arrived Designed by Manish Arora, 2014-15 Noida, India Victoria and Albert Museum
in the French town of Lunéville in 1810. The ateliers adopted it due to the speed and efficiency of the technique.
the technique would become known as Tambour Embroidery.
Beads
and
sequins
were
added to the repertoire in the late 19th century. The town of Lunéville became so famous
Tambour means drum in French
for its exquisite embroideries
and refers to the technique
that the method is known as
of
stretching
the
ground
Lunéville Hook Embroidery.
Coverlet, early 20th century, Bangladesh Victoria and Albert Museum Aari embroidery sample PASHTUSH INDIA
A brief overview of embroidery
8
Madame de Pompadour at her Tambour Frame François-Hubert Drouais 1763–4 Oil on canvas 217 x 156.8 cm National Gallery, London
LUNÉVILLE HOOK EMBROIDERY
Lunéville Hook
9
“Le Point de Lunéville” designates an embroidery technique created in the town of the same name, Lunéville (Meurthe-et-Moselle, France), at the beginning of the 19th century. This embroidery is carried out on cotton tulle with cotton thread, which is used to make a chain stitch. The work is done employing a specific hook called “Lunéville hook.” Until the 1940s, this embroidery was used in the making of many clothing and decorative effects.
Château de Lunéville France
Today, this technique is applying for artistic purposes or in addition to other embroidery techniques. Beaded and sequined embroidery is the evolution of the Lunéville stitch. Using the know-how of “Lunévilleuses,” the official period appellation of embroiderers performing the stitch of Lunéville, the pearls have been pre-added on the thread used to make the chain. Every chain loop engaged a pearl. This new embroidery, developed in Lunéville around 1865, took the name of beaded and sequined embroidery. This technique of applying pearls and sequins within an embroidery is now used in fashion and haute couture.
A brief overview of embroidery
10
DESCRIPTION OF THE LUNÉVILLE TECHNIQUE
advantage
smooth corners when needed.
of the Lenuville technique is
It does not matter what material
speed. When the skill reaches
is using for embroidery — only
a certain level, the final result
thread,
could be gained relatively fast
The result will be good with any
comparing to needlework.
of these materials.
Another advantage is getting
The
straight lines and sharp or
disadvantage
The
fundamental
beads,
only
(mainly
for
inexperienced users)
is
working the
from
backside
of the material. Overall, this is the
question
of training.
The difference between regular stitching and Luneville technique Regular — curved stitches Luneville — nicely aligned “chain” stitches
or
sequins.
LunĂŠville Hook
11 Luneville basics instruction
A brief overview of embroidery
12
ECOLE LESAGE
Lesage is the most prominent brand in both a world of couture and the world of studying highclass embroidery. Artisans from all over the world aim to study in this school. And its diploma proves
the
high
quality,
and
standards,
professionalism
of its owner. There is no need to mention
that
the
price
for tuition is incredibly high and can compete with the best Europian
universities
that
provided complete education.
François Lesage 1929-2011
It is funny that Lesage as a Fashion House has only almost 100 years of history. And school was established only in 1992. Comprising to Luneville with its rich traditions, it is not so much. But the brand value created during these years cannon
be
underestimated.
The family of Lesage had built a highly successful business.
François Lesage 1929-2011
Ecole Lesage
13
And
François
Lesage
had
contributed the most. It is hardly surprising that Maison Lesage joined the Métiers d’Art Chanel in 2002. At the same time, both Lesage school and atelier are following
At the same time, this kind of monopoly does not provide any opportunity for another opinion. With all respect (and admiration), I believe that this institution should be the first that establishing beauty and innovations not only in art and craft but also in working the same working standards (and
conditions)
that
were
established at the beginning of the 20th century. It proves not only numerous students but also a variety of published sources.
Such commitment
to traditions can be respected.
standards for artisans.
A brief overview of embroidery
14
TECH
Technique in Fashion Houses
HNIQUE IN FASHION HOUSES
15
16
02. Jost Amman The embroiderer 1568 Lyon municipal library
17
TOOLS FOR EMBROIDERY
Tools for embroidery
18
EMBROIDERY FRAME
To me, this part of the research was
full
of
surprises.
I discovered a whole new world of frames for embroidery. I found that the frame can be both comfortable and beautiful. I admire the approach of oldschool masters to make the real piece of art. Also, it is clearly seen that a lot of engineering ideas were applied to the frame. First, the way how fabric can be attached and the methods of
stretching.
Second,
the stability of the frame on the surface (floor or table). All presented examples look solid and heavy. I do not see any possibility of shifting it unexpectedly during work. Third, rotation mechanism. Lunivelle technique requires to work from the back of the fabric. But often design demands working in mix techniques, so frame must
Embroidery Frame
19
be rotated. And finally, each example has a small (or not so small) storage for materials, and additional surface to place tools or any other things. The only thing that I did not notice is the height adjustment option. Probably, the reason for that is made by the “individual
embroidery
as
leisure,
not
professionally. The only “professional” example (on engraving illustration) shows remarkable
similarities
with
modern models.
order” approach. It should not be forgotten that presented pieces
were
made
for
wealthy customers who made
ANTIQUE
Embroidery machine mid 18th century France
Tools for embroidery
20
EMBROIDERY FRAME
Comparing to antique samples, modern frames for embroidery are
representing
simplicity
(or even austerity) in decor, but trying to reach functionality. The adjustability on each level is clearly seen. Floor examples are more multifunctional and can be hight and width adjusted. Table frames have fewer options. Some schools use them as a cheap option to provide offline tuition.
Professional
ateliers
are usually utilizing only floor frames. Usually, frames a made of beech wood
with
or
without
an
additional coat. I cannot say that this frame can live long. I noticed that humidity negatively affect my table frame. Probably Indian masters are using a frame made of some other wood.
Embroidery Frame
21
Modern frames are usually not really stable. The reason for that is the attempts of manufacturers to reduce the weight for shipping
place for equipment. So all
purposes. I noticed that some
materials
ateliers prefer to use heavy,
usually keeping on a work
adjustable table legs from IKEA
surface, which sometimes is
to avoid shifting. This approach
not comfortable at all.
has one positive side. It is easier to rotate the frame, as long as no materials are placing on the surface.
and
tools
are
Overall, the embroidery frame today can be described as a necessary but ill-conceived tool.
It is seen that modern frames have no additional storage or
MoDErN
Tools for embroidery
22
EMBROIDERY HOOK OR CROCHET
Antique crochets are genuinely
A lot of crochets were made
a piece of art and craft. It is clear
by
that most of the tools of this kind
In the 19th century, there were
were made for wealthy people.
some companies oriented on
Embroidery for them was just
“hobby-tools”
a hobby. But status required
but for now, even these “cheap”
to have
alternatives
the
most
visually
jewelers
pleasing instruments made of
look
like
precious materials.
expensive
kind.
manufacturing,
ANTIQUE
Ebony Tambour/Crochet Hook 18k gold
one
an
u n i q u e accessory.
in
LunĂŠville Hook
Antique French Crochet Hook 12k gold c.1810-30
23
Tools for embroidery
24
EMBROIDERY HOOK OR CROCHET
Modern crochets can be called
Although crochet is utilizing
“simple” in every way. Shapes
to create the most expensive
a usually
and
fashion apparel, it seems that
materials are cheapest most of
nobody cares to apply some
the time. But most of all, the basic
evolution
design of a tool is absolutely
resources.
pretty
dull,
the same as centuries ago.
to
its
Some craftsmen are to
trying revitalize
old-school approaches, but most of the time, these
attempts
replicate
only
the visual side of the tool.
production
LunĂŠville Hook
MoDErN
25
Tools for embroidery
26
OTHER EMBROIDERY TOOLS
Additional tools research was also full of discoveries, but also a lot of sorrow for a modern market
that
opportunity
lost to
a
attract
huge new
customers. Again I saw how beautiful but thoughtful some instruments
Sewing bird 1850-1875
might be. One of my favorite discoveries is the so-called “sewing bird,” which actually a
clamp
with
additional
functionality. I noticed a lot of examples when DIY admirers utilized
ugly
construction
clamps for their embroidery process. Another
fantastic
piece
of equipment is “Chatelaine,” which is a belt-clasp with a lot of small attachable tools such
Other embroidery tools
27
as scissors, needle holders, thimble, etc. In short, a fully customizable device for tailors or DIY person. I believe that
The storage boxes must be
this idea can be evaluated in
revised separately. I cannot treat
a separate project.
them as dull storage, actually.
Holder for spool is my additional pain point as an embroiderer.
To me, it is a jewelry box, which is also a precious piece of art.
IÂ could not find any appropriate example
on
the
modern
market but found one during the research of vintage and antiquity.
Chatelaine Silver
ANTIQUE
Antique French Palais Royal 18k Gold Sewing Set
Tools for embroidery
28
OTHER EMBROIDERY TOOLS
Here
presented
the
basic
kit with supporting tools for the embroiderer. SPOOL HOLDER The wood of a plywood base with a bar for a spool. Usually, it places in the hole in the frame for better thread spreading. One of my examples is a laser-cut, another one made with CNC. It is not really convenient that it can be used as “one spool per base.” Sometimes I work with different threads and materials, and it would be better to have multiple options. TWEEZER AND SPATULA These are using to put in or out
beads
(or
other)
from
storage packaging. Not the first necessity, but convenient.
Other embroidery tools
29
SCISSORS It is better to have a variety of
scissors
for
different
operations. For example, one
SPINNER
scissor is using for cutting
I am not sure what kind
threads, another — for fabric.
of tool used to arrange
TRAY My example is DIY. It is a cork plate velvet-covered with cord border. The tray can be highly useful. If you place all materials on a tray, not embroidery surface, it is easier to rotate the rame.
beads or sequins before, but these days the only option is a spinner. It is hand rotated bowl with a unique hook needle. While the container is turning, beads are spreading on the needle — a highly tedious process.
MoDErN
30
03. The “problems research” sample made as observation for this project Overall work-time — 9 hours
31
USER EXPERIENCE
User Experience
32
Scuola di Ricamo Alta Moda Rome 07.2019
ALSO ASPIRING EMBROIDERER
Also aspiring Embroiderer
33
In this project, I can treat myself not only as a designer but also as a client and a representative of the target audience. During the past two years, I have started to explore embroidery not only as a hobby for amateurs but also as an additional craft approach for my professional design-development. The first step was getting professional
off-line
training
in Russian and Italian ateliers. This experience gave me both skill development in an expert way and knowledge about real
Couture Embroidery Atelier “E.Va” Moscow 08.2018
working conditions for embroiderers. Also, while I am not studying product design, I am taking part in a variety of on-line embroidery courses and master-classes. That is how I learned to work independently on craft projects. And finally, I am trying to develop my designs based on gained knowledge. Overall, I can state that my personal experience can be a relevant base for inventing a new product for the embroidery field.
User Experience
34
@anna.mlkhv
WHO ARE THE TARGET GROUPS?
Who are the target groups?
35
Several groups represent the user of this product. First, employees or individuals who are working as embroiderers for a full-time, or creating commissioned work. Second, aspiring individuals who mostly studying and exploring the technique and aim to do it for a living. Finally, those who perceive embroidery as a hobby and do not want to be involved in it much. The first two groups seem the most relevant. To get a more clear picture of the user, I decided to survey embroiders. The full list of questions and findings is presented bellow. I was interested in not demography, but mostly experience. There are key findings of the survey: 1. Among respondents, the majority were both professionals or those who occasionally
@taniashay_inspiration
preform a commission work. 2. The majority of respondents prefer to study from a professional tutor, not independently.
5. One of the most important findings is that the majority of respondents do not pay proper attention to exercising and arranging proper
3. Most of the respondents have several handles — each handle per one needle. But
breaks during work.
some paid attention to the design of the tool
The results of the survey are significant, but it will
and chose it according to the mood.
be not the only source for idea development. As
4. As far as a majority of respondents have several handles, the problem of proper
far as I am personally involved in this community and
continually
communicating
with
some
storage for needles does not seem significant.
of the embroiderers (several of them can be
Although,
it was noticed that there is no
claimed as prominent artisans), I believe it would
universal solution for storing both handles
be better to bring this knowledge and experience
and needles.
to the projects.
User Experience
36
Other embroidery tools
37
User Experience
38
Other embroidery tools
39
User Experience
40
PRODUCT DETAILED OBSERVATION
Here
is
presented
the observation and evaluation of
personal
embroidery
crochets. NEEDLES There are three crochets with a variety of needles — 70, 80, 90, 120 sizes. One tool has only 70 and 80 needle options. Another two are capable of the whole range. For this type of embroidery, Schmetz
(Germany)
needles
for
hook
embroidery
The edge of a needle when the unnecessary part was removed improperly
The most common way of storing needles
machines
are
utilized.
The needle has an additional more thick part for the machine installation. This part is usually removing. Sometimes the cut edge is not treated correctly. Each
needle
is
placed
in
a separate plastic bag, which marked with the size. Usually, it is visually hard to detect the size of a needle.
Opening for screw that holding a needle
Product detailed observation
41
The needle is installing into a metal holder that securely attached to a wooden handle. The screw is fixing the needle. SCREW Apart from fixing the needle, a screw has another critical function —
it
is
indicating
not only look nicer, but also it is more comfortable to hold.
Example of storage for crochet
The slimmest grip is also the most uncomfortable. It is hard to work for a long time. The decoration is not affecting The difference between holding different sizes of needles
the proper way of rotation
the working process at all. BOX Each crochet is storing in a separate plastic box with
handle during the embroidery
a range of needles. There
process. As seen, the design
is a silicone piece to hold
of screws is almost the same.
the handle, but it fits only
HANDLE
Overall, this box is extremely
All handles are made of wood.
a
specific
handle
uncomfortable,
but
radius. there
Only one handle is coated with
is no proper alternative on
wood polish. This handle does
the market.
Needle holding mechanism
User Experience
42
DIMENSIONS & ERGONOMIC
As a basis for the design, I took my own the most simple hook.
It is made of ash-tree
with almost
no
decoration.
The task was to observe more detailed how I hold the hook during embroidery, and analyze how where fingers and palm are placed on the handle. The ideal position of the hook to the surface is vertical — almost 90°. In real life, the hook
Hook is insignificantly inclined.
is insignificantly angled. When The width of the needle
inclination becomes too high, it is hard to make stitches, and the tread’s tension is changing. Point and thumb hold the hook. The middle finger works as a support and also gets the most tension. Other fingers are usually still. I noticed that sometimes I use a little finger for support. I cannot explain
The diameter of metal needle holder
Dimensions & Ergonomic
43
the reason adequately. I believe it caused the thread thickness. The
second
part
of
the observation is checking the precise measurement of the tool. This example has the most thickness for the part where the hook is holding
The length of needle holder
The diameter of holding place
by fingers. My other hooks are
this thickness is not enough
even
for the most comfortable work.
thicker.
Probably,
this
is the reason why I think this hook is the most comfortable. Also, I noticed that sometimes fingers
are
sliding
on
the
surface, although the handle has no polishing finish. I believe
At the same time, the weight of this hook is only 8.6 g, which is almost nothing comparing to any other pen or marker.
User Experience
44
Calluses
PROBLEM 1. ERGONOMICS OF A HANDLE
Problem 1.
45
The lack of tool ergonomics is directly affecting the health conditions of an embroiderer. Such
monotonous
work
as
embroidery is causing calluses on the middle finger. It is both not esthetically pleasing and also can cause more severe health consequences such as Bouchard’s Nodes. To prevent (or at least reduce) the negative impact of the tool, several steps to find the best solutions:
The most stress on a middle finger
1. To figure out the better shape of the handle that will reduce the stress of the middle finger. 2. To find better material for production. 3. To offer clear instructions about the necessity of breaks and gymnastics for hands.
User Experience
46
POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS FROM OTHER AREAS
From both personal experience and
the
survey,
it
was
discovered that for embroiderer (especially those who work alone), it is tough to take breaks. From reading about arthritis and other musculoskeletal diseases, it is known that not only regular breaks
are
vital,
but
also
ergonomic instruments must be used. The embroidery crochet tool is just a beautiful piece of Pilot Kaküno Launched in 2013
Pilot Dr. Grip Launched in 1993
decoration. For the 18th century, it is fine to think only about the visual outlook. But in the 21st century, we can do better. We do not need to reinvent the wheel to improve crochet, and we need to look closely at the experience and evolution of other tools for monotonous
Pelikano® Fountain Pen Launched in 2010
Possible Solutions from other areas
47
actions. A pen is the best example. It was interesting to discover that ideas about the comfort and health of pen users came to the designer’s mind not so long ago — around 70s/80s. Improving
manufacturing
technology and materials were more interesting to investigate.
by other manufacturers such as Pilot (Japan) and Pelicano (Germany).
The LAMY safari Launched in 1980
Another critical point is that Fabian’s design is innovative and timeless. We can apply Wolfang Fabian Lamy Safary designer
Thanks
to
Wolfang
new Fabian,
Safari design mostly in user (school
kids),
for now, we have the most famous
ergonomic
improve
manufacturing technology but
who based his famous Lamy experience
materials,
shape
of a fountain pen. The idea was adopted and improved
the idea still the same. I believe that if Lamy, one day, decides to enter a new market, tools for craft embroiderers would be a perfect option for them.
First promo campaign
User Experience
48
TEXTURED SURFACE AS A WAY TO RELIEVE FINGERS STRESS
The
distinctive
feature
of the tambour embroidery technique is a constant rotation of the tool about its axis. So the round shape seems the most appropriate for the hook. It is known that one of the measures to prevent calluses is massage. In this case, the surface must have a texture to prevent not only sliding but also has a kind of effect of a massage procedure. Gillette Venus Platinu Premium silicone grip
Wörther Anodized aluminum
Firstly, I looked at various pens and other stationery to find any solution for the surface. This research just proved that Lamy has the most elegant and straightforward solution. Then, I noticed that those who design razors pay a lot of attention to both product ergonomics generally and to the surface of a handle.
The process
Concept Cork grip
Textured surface as a way to relieve fingers stress
49
of using a razor does not require rotation, but it does need to handle it in different ways. So it was interesting to evaluate this product. I noticed that most of the time handle
of
any
razor
is
The most crucial feature (that definitely should be included in the final design) is an
The Winston The ergonomic body is made of die-cast zinc, polished chrome and a rubberised grip
additional soft surface made for the handle’s inner side. It helps to hold the product Flamingo Original Razor Textured rubber grip
a combination of at least two materials — hard (like plastic or metal) and soft (like rubber). The soft material is usually textured somehow. Only one example I found has a texture applied to the plastic.
more securely. And also ease the stress of the palm.
Kai Disposable razor
User Experience
50
Idar-Oberstein Agate Handles with removable needles 1800s Germany
PROBLEM 2. DEALING WITH NEEDLES
Problem 2.
51
For a simple task, it is acceptable to
use
one
needle.
But
for complicated projects, often working with several needles is required. For now, the solutions are either having a variety of handles with different needles or changing needles during the work. For an experienced master, it is not a big deal. But still, it requires time that can be saved. At the same time, as far as the handle has no storage for different needles, it is needed to keep them around, that not always convenient. Thus, for the sake of speed (or lazy),
Double slider steel wire needle, brass handle Great Britain either 1887 or 1888
the experienced master would operate with one needle, which might affect the quality. In the same situation, the amateur can easily ruin all work. Overall, the whole framework of changing needles seems old-fashioned and, definitely, can be improved.
User Experience
52
POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS FROM OTHER AREAS
First of all, there is no need to go so far as to find some solutions to this problem. The tools for different ways of embroidery and knitting from ancient times must be evaluated. This field provides a lot of directions to investigate. Some of the ideas are patented, so it is not clear about the validity of applying. Still, the general guidance can be used.
Steel needle in brass pin John Shrimpton and Son, Redditch, England Design Patent: 1865 GB Rd No 4686
The material that caught my Keyless drill chuck
attention the most is a cork that was utilized for the handle. It is truly a genius in terms of the handle weight (and price). Also, the mechanism for fixing needle easily can be adapted from regular or dental drills. Screwing any head to a handle this way can save time (and
Dental drill chuck
Possible Solutions from other areas
53
Kaurkuk Manufacturer: Morris and Yeomans, Astwood Bank, Redditch, England Patent: 1908 GB 190803813
affect the weight of the hook. And also, only one needle can be installed to the handle. In some ways, this “one handle
temper). It must be kept in mind that for the best result, it is better to make a kind of stopper for the needle to prevent 360° rotation while installing it. Another option for needles is adapting mechanisms from OTF Knife. The benefit of this option is that you don’t need to deal with screwing or something. On the other hand, this may
- one needle” formula might not be a problem for a user, as far as a lot of them like to keep needles that way. However, there are multi-colored pens with a variety of rods that not
thicker
than
needles.
So, a multi-needle handle is potentially also an option.
Brass collet on agate handle Germany from 1800 – 1940
OTF Knife Benchmade Infidel
User Experience
54
G. Chambers & Co. 1847 and 1848 steel wire needle, brass collet, bone handle
PROBLEM 3. TOOL STORAGE & SAFETY
Problem 3.
55
It ofÂ
is
noticed
that
a
embroiderers
lot keep
their instruments in simple boxes or bags. Often, the needle stays in the handle, which can cause not only damage to a tool but also traumas for a master. This problem resonates with the previous one, as far as it is necessary to decide the possibility of storage needles inside the handle or invent another mechanism.
Antique Crochet or Tambour hooks and silk winder set 1850-1899
Also, it must be kept in mind that each needle should be numbered appropriately (marked). The size of the needle is not always visually precise. Another point is the durability of the storage, especially for those cases when tools must be transported elsewhere.
User Experience
56
POSSIBLE SOLUTIONS FROM OTHER AREAS
It must be said that Wacom stylus is an excellent source of inspiration for this project, as well as Lamy pens. Not only construction ideas of the device can be adopted, but also the ways of keeping tips and pen itself. By the way, for some models of styluses (which is a professional tool at the core), the price is almost the same as for crochet. So,
it
seems
fair
to ask
Francesco del Cossa 1476-84 Fresco
manufacturers to think a bit Wacom pen case
more about packaging and storage. Here, storage
there tips
are
different
options
from
Wacom, and similar brands are presented. It must be kept in mind that there are always be some additional needles that should be organized well, even
Wacom case for tips
Possible Solutions from other areas
57
essential. It was noticed that for now, each master invents
Wacom pen stand
the own solution to keep the tool safe, such as using a piece of rubber, silicon, or even Styrofoam, to pin the Belkin Case + Stand for Apple Pencil
needle inside. From a personal perspective, it looks both archaic and not aesthetically
if a handle will be stored for several. Also, the crochet (especially expensive
versions)
must
be placed in proper, say safe and durable packaging. The material for the inside part is
pleasing.
Belkin Case Apple Pencil
User Experience
58
TOOLS OBSERVATION
For the design development, it was essential to take some measurements of two primary inspirational tools: Lamy pen and Wacom Stylus. The first interesting point was to figure out the dimensions of the “sitting place” for fingers, which is the widest part of a pen. I believe that Lamy has the most comfortable size. Wacom, on the one hand, is a bit wide, but the soft material (some kind of rubber) compensates that. And the diameter can be
squished
a
bit,
which
makes the holding process more comfortable. If Lamy is a piece of well designed and well-balanced plastic, Wacom though about ergonomic from the touching perspective. Soft materials are better than hard if you need to hold an instrument for an extended period.
Tools Observation
59
The second dimension that I was curious about is the average of diameters from the widest to smallest. In other words, how the thickness of the pen in changing. Visually, this change is not so dramatic. It is clear that the pen is narrowing. But
reference for an indication part for hooks. It is seen that 4 mm is more than enough to observe this point on the tool. The question is how to place it on a surface of a hook to make it visually clear and not be a barrier for rotation. observing the hooks, it became
Overall, I believe that most
clear that even tiny change can
of Lamy’s dimensions perfectly
make a tool unbalanced.
fit such a tool as a hook while Wacom pen (at least my old
On Wacom pen, there is a button
version) is a bit thick, and as
that helps to navigate a tool.
a result, it is less comfortable
It is incredibly uncomfortable
to work with.
to use, but it can be a useful
60
04. Brittany Needles Knitting needles and crochet hooks made in California from sustainably harvested birch and black walnut
T M
61
TYPES OF MANUFACTURING
Types of manufacturing
62
WHO MANUFACTURES NEEDLES
Problem 3.
63
The
needles
for
this
type
of embroidery are manufactured only by one company from Germany — Scmetz, that is specializing
in
developing
a range of tools, supplies, and machinery for both professional and amateur sewing. This
specific
needle
for tambouring and automatic embroidery a
machines
has
feature,
such
distinctive
as a hook. The needle is incredibly tip
is
sharp,
fragile.
and
The
the
needle
itself is pretty hard to broke.
A particular type of metal wire is utilizing for manufacturing. The full length is about 15,9 cm, which is pretty long for the current construction of the embroidery hook. The distribution process cannot be claimed as effective for clients. The fabric has no online store or official partner for end buyers, only for wholesale retailers, which significantly affect the price. In Russia, only a few large shops can afford to distribute the needles at a reasonable price.
Types of manufacturing
64
NEEDLES MANUFACTURING PROCESS
Needle Triangular Tip Grinding Machine $15000
Wire Straightening Machine $5000
A sewing needle has such a simple shape, and
shaking shoots and fall into bins and neat piles.
its manufacturing method
seems also simple,
Each one will be used to make two needles.
just “Cutting, Grinding and Polishing.” However,
The grinding wheel turns, and at the same
it is still manufactured through more than
time, the overhead wheel revolves in a different
30 processes at present.
direction to bear down the ends of the wires and
The manufacturing process for a simple sewing needle looks pretty easy. Wire Straightening Machine makes the thin steel wire straight and removes any kinks. Then cutter slices the wire to the length of two needles. The wires exit into
grind them to a point. It takes up to six grindings to make the tips sharp enough. Even for this process, it takes at least four types of machinery. To make a needle for sewing or embroidery machine, the process requires additional tools
Needles manufacturing process
65
Needle End Drilling Machine $13000
Standard Automatic Needle End Annealing Machine $3000
and devices to produce proper end or to make
The understanding of fundamental manufacturing
the second diameter.
issues is also a point not to focus on needle
The price for any machinery for needles is relatively high. So a lot of investment is required to start needle manufacturing. Most of the machinery developers, for now, are centered in Asia. However, as described before, only Schemtz company is producing the best quality needles for embroidery.
redesign, for a handle.
but
concentrate
on
solutions
Types of manufacturing
66
Tambour embroidery hook Kasimov Museum of History and Culture
CRAFT PRODUCTION
Craft
67
The craft production definition is the manufacturing process of
making
products,
one
by one, with or without the aid of tools, usually in a job shop manufacturing setting. Regardless of the product, craft production’s finished goods are unique, tell a story, and (should be)
made
of
exceptionally
high quality, which is the most significant appeal of purchasing something
from
a
craft
manufacturer. The qualification of craft workers and the level of their skills might directly affect the number of sales.
Tambour embroidery hooks Ivory and silver
It must be noted that these days there is a shortage of truly experienced and skilled craft professionals. Training for anyone working in craft production can be intensive and delivered through apprenticeships, workshops, lectures, or just a simple handson approach. Before the XX century, a significant amount of embroidery tools were craft manufactured. These days, this approach is also practiced. Craft-produced crochets are most expensive, beautiful, and usually made by pre-order.
Types of manufacturing
68
EQUIPMENT FOR CRAFT PRODUCTION
Equipment for craft production is most of all skillful hands of a master. Having a bit of craft woodwork experience, I can say that even with simple tools, it is possible to create amazing things. And with a bit of just electricity,
the
possibilities
of craft-makers are rising. Regarding
the
manufacturing,
hooks it
must
craft be
noted that the essential tool is a simple mini wood lathe.
Set of Chisels Perfect for DIY sculpture carpenter
Wood Lathe Just for the constant rotation
It must be able to make not so much — to hold the wood tight and rotate it with speed needed. All measurements are on the craftsman, who also use it for polishing. The price for this type of machinery is not so high and equivalent to three or four finished hooks.
Craftsmen is carving mother-ofpearl with Dremel
Equipment for craft production
69
A set of nice chisels is also a good investment. Different knives help to make a variety of decorating effects that clients always willing to pay for. Dremel
or
equivalent
is
definitely required for those
In the 19th century, there was no (almost no) electricity or tools that can perform incredibly
high
speed.
At the time, the old craftsmen created a masterpiece. Making a part for Windsor chair Shaving horse was also a craft piece
craftsmen who already earn a bit and want to raise prices for products. It also helps to work not only with wood but also with a variety of materials such as mother-of-pearl.
Basic woodworking tools
Types of manufacturing
70
Embroidery crochet without needles $46
BATCH MANUFACTURING
Batch
71
Batch manufacturing is a style of production which compiles the different components of a product through step by step processes. Advantages of batch production: • Reduces the effect of set up time. • Permits use of heavy-duty equipment. • Don’t have to make constant adjustments. • Get in the flow. • Reduce
the
burden
of
transportation time. • Has
space
for
unique
configurations.
Embroidery crochet suitable for variety of needles $42
• Improve production planning and scheduling. • Easier to spot mistakes. The majority of Russian manufacturers are batch producing crochets. It is the easiest way to get the needed amount of products faster and without high costs. Recently, some new manufacturers are trying to enter the manufacturing market, which immediately affected the price became lower), better quality, and (in some insignificant ways) design and usability of the product.
Types of manufacturing
72
INTERVIEW WITH THE EMBROIDERY HOOKS MANUFACTURER
Questions were answered by Valentina Rozhkova, the owner of the brand “Vintage Rose.” In Russia, the brand is known as not only as embroidery school (that provides an official diploma) or one of the largest Online stores for embroiderers but also as one of the first local manufacturers of Luneville crochets. Also, Valentina is an alumnus of Lesage school and an embroiderer with many years of experience.
Interview with the embroidery hooks manufacturer
73
MANUFACTURING Why
did
you
of embroidery hooks? We came up with this idea in January 2017. At that time, we imported French hooks, but with each batch, the quality became worse and worse, and prices in steadily
batch. The first batch of
decide
to engage the production
euros
for today was a defective carved holders was thin, and
By the way, the most popular carved shape for today was a defective batch.
increased.
that it is better to respond to any quality claims for our product, not imported.
for thicker one, so it remained in the range. Do you make all components for the production of hooks from scratch (a pen, a metal fastener
for
a
needle,
something from suppliers?
hooks, taking into account hook that was available at that time. We agreed
thicker. But customers voted
screws), or do you buy
And we decided to make our all the knowledge about the
the second, by mistake, was
Yes, we make all the components of the handle ourselves — wooden handles from different types of wood, with various processing options (baking wood, polishing). We also produce
What was the prototype for your hooks — own
metal fasteners and screws on a lathe. We buy
design based on experience, a finished sample
only needles in Germany, because no one else
from the store?
does them, and creating it yourself is impossible. The production process requires an impressive
Initially, we did the design that the wood masters could create, but after some time, my brother, an engineer, joined us and (thanks to his technical
manufacturing line and a special needle wire. What do you pay more attention to the production
drawings), we were able to make two types
process? For example, quality control of finished
of holders (a drop and a short one with a ball on
products, availability of materials, something
the top) — like in France. And after that, we started
else?
to experiment and fantasize. I mean, a professional approach is always better. We still keep the very
The first and primary so far is the quality
first holder that shows where we started. But it
of the product. We check each handle twice. First,
looks terrible :). To make one of the most popular
all the handles are checked by my brother, who
designs, we were inspired by a form of chess.
is now fully engaged in the production part and
By the way, the most popular carved shape
work with suppliers. Second, Alexander (technical
Types of manufacturing
74
director) reviews the final commodity packaging.
In your experience, what wishes/suggestions/
Such control allows us to find all the smallest
complaints do customers make about the product
defects. We do not sell hooks even with the tiniest
more often? Were there any funny requests?
cracks. Such products claim as defected, and we use it in our studio. We provide customers with
Most buyers are satisfied with the product
almost 100% quality hooks.
because it performs its functions one hundred
In your opinion, is wood the best material for making hooks? We tried to make pens from polymer materials, but all the pens turned out to be heavy and quite expensive. Therefore, wood remains the most convenient and suitable material in all respects (inexpensive, pleasant to use, durable and amenable to processing).
percent. In case the person knows how to use the tool. There are complaints about breakdowns of the instrument, but here we look at the moment of failure. If it broke while delivery (rarely, but it happens), then we change it without problems. If the buyer broke it personally, then we can give recommendations on how to fix it. Of the most frequent — for some reason, customers try to unscrew metal needle holders. Of the most curious cases, a couple of years ago,
CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIPS In your opinion, what is the most important for your customer: design (visual beauty — a carved handle, color) or the presence of additional elements (a set of needles in the kit, a storage box)? It seems to me that they are looking at the design and additional options, and at a price. The buyer needs to have a choice, but at the same time, the price for the product should be appropriate. We offer both handles separately, and a set with needles and a case. Usually, a kit is taken
when Luneville embroidery became popular, and videos of Indian masters began to appear on YouTube with embroidery at tremendous speed, a woman wrote me a claim that she bought a hook, put it down and does not understand how to turn it on to start embroidery. The complaint was that we sold the goods without checking its performance. She was sure that the hook should perform embroidery on its own. And her hand is only necessary to direct it in the right direction, like a sewing machine. But she could not find a button or a place for batteries and was very unhappy about that.
by those who just want to start embroidering, and
In your opinion, does Instagram promotion affect
handles are bought independently by those who
sales of a specific tool? For example, one master
wish to have their pen for each needle. But kits
on Instagram showed the hook to the public and
are purchased better than single handle.
mentioned your store. Is it affect your sales?
Interview with the embroidery hooks manufacturer
75
Yes, it happens, but we feel it more in
Yes, sometimes. Damage sometimes
the foreign market. If an international
occurs in carved thick pens, dark in
master showed his hook and said
color. The dark color is obtained
where it was bought, then we see
by a special baking wood technique.
a demand for this particular form hook from abroad customers. Our customers usually take the simplest hook from the most inexpensive price category. Often, they explain this by the fact that they suddenly
Kits are purchased better than single handle.
In colored handles, wood is drier and more fragile. Therefore, when falling on a stone or tile can crack. It also happens occasionally with needles; they can break when dropped on
don’t like it, but have already spent
a stone or tiled floor when inserted
a lot of money.
into a handle. Therefore, if you have finished embroidering, put on
EXPERIENCE
a needle with a hook into a foam
In your experience, does an embroiderer need
ball, a rubber cap, or just a piece of an eraser.
more than one handle with a full set of needles,
Then, when dropped, the needle will not break.
or is it better to have several handles for each needle?
Why since the 19th century (and maybe even earlier) has the hook as a tool changed
I have handles for each needle. Since I have
only in a decorative sense, but not in terms
a vast number of handles rejected in appearance
of convenience and ergonomics?
(but absolutely working), then I actively use them. It is convenient because I do not need to change
Probably because it initially does an excellent
the needles and spend time on the neat storage
job. It’s like a shovel or a hoe. It has not changed
of needles without a handle. In the handles, they
almost over the centuries, because its mission
are less lost. But in principle, the craftsmen work
is to dig the earth. About the decorative side
with a 70 or 80 needle. Often, one handle is more than enough.
of the hook, I can say that now the handles are more modest than their ancestors in the 19th or
Have you ever happen a breakdown in the handle
early 20th century. That time, the hooks were
and/or needle? For example, it fell to the floor,
made of ivory, decorated with silver and other
and something broke off.
excesses. Now the hooks are much simpler ●
Types of manufacturing
76
EQUIPMENT FOR BATCH PRODUCTION
Batch
production
of
hooks
requires a variety of machineries such as lathe and CNC for wood and metal. More powerful and intellectual
solutions
offer
a good speed of manufacturing, more precise control of quality, and getting several samples at the same time. However, such machinery requires a certain level of employee’s technical competence to operate devices properly. It must be mentioned that
learning
the
CNC Wood Turning Lathe Machine $3000
basic
principles of machinery work is much easier than study craft techniques. So batch production help manufacturers to be less dependent on masters and artisans. To
start
batch
production
of hooks (with old-school design) does not require significant investment in machinery. As it was
researched,
CNC
and
Equipment for batch production
77
Lathe are more than enough to start the process. Also, a simple laser engraver, that does not cost much can be excellent
support
customization
or
for
basic
branding
of products. Unfortunately, most of the Russian manufacturers do not use it. It must be mentioned that those who do use it having benefits on the market, as far as
not only with plastic but also rubber-like materials such as thermoplastic
polyurethane,
thermoplastic
elastomer,
BestEquip Metal Lathe $1400
silicone. There Rubber 3d printing machine $6000
a lot of artisans show their tools on Instagram.
are
two
significant
problems with 3d printing technology
for
hook
manufacturing. First, the price for
printer
and
materials.
Second, the ability to print
I see a lot of potential in
tiny pieces. Overall,
3d printing for hooks batch
believed that these problems
production.
will
Especially
be
solved
it is shortly,
for those who want to improve
considering the improvement
the construction of the hook.
of technology during the last
3d printing technology works
years.
Laser Engraver $300
Types of manufacturing
78
Embroidery stitching tool Clover
MASS PRODUCTION
Mass production
79
Mass the
production manufacturing
quantities
of
is
of
large
standardized
products, often using assembly lines or automation technology. Mass
production
facilitates
the efficient creation of a large number of similar products. Mass
production
has
advantages.
If
stringently
monitored,
many
production
is
mass
production can result in a high level of precision because production line
machines
have
preset
parameters. Mass production also results in lower costs because the
automated
assembly
line
Embroidery Pen Stitching Punch Tool
production process requires fewer workers. However, establishing an automatic assembly line is capital-intensive and requires a significant upfront investment of time and resources. If there is an error in the production design, an extensive investment of time and money may be necessary to redesign and rebuild mass production processes. There are no found cases that proved the mass production of described crochets. But it is known that some Asian companies are mass producing the hobby device called “Embroidery stitching tool.” These examples can argue that the mass production of professional crochets is potentially possible.
Types of manufacturing
80
EQUIPMENT FOR MASS PRODUCTION
As mentioned, today, there is no mass production of embroidery hooks
for
the
Luneville
technique. Observing similar tools, it is seen that traditional manufacturing methods, such as injection molding or casting, are utilized. As far as plastic is the only used material for these hobby tools (excluding metal for needle), given methods have a lot of benefits. Above all, these technologies have a history.
They are well
Mold for plastic bottle 250000-300000 shots $800
PLASTIC INJECTION MACHINE An automatic injection molding machine with a small footprint (4 ft X 1 ft) $12500
developed. There are a range
itself has pretty high production
of machinery, different prices,
quotas.
and
characteristics.
Material
for production is cheap and easy to buy. Technology and the process of making molds are also well developed and relatively affordable. The mold
On the other hand, with the fast-developed
3d
printing
solutions, these technologies look archaic rather and not worthy of investing, if some want to enter the market.
Equipment for mass production
81
In some ways, the gap between mass and batch production is vanishing if 3d technology will
be
implemented
the manufacturing
in
process.
The difference is in the quantity of 3d printers in a workshop. Taking producing
into only
consideration plastic
(or
rubber and other soft options) parts for embroidery hooks,
There are some solutions for
printing
metal.
Unfortunately, this technology includes highly
at
least
expensive
four pieces
of machinery, and a 3d printer Metal X – Complete 3d Metal Printing Solution $100000 (only printer)
is just one in this line. This option is successfully using in car parts manufacturing.
such technology as SLA printing
So, for such a narrow market
gives many opportunities. SLA
as embroidery tools, it is
printers use laser technology to
better to use good old CNC.
cure the printing material, which
As another option, it is possible
is applicable not only in medical
to use a 3d printer to produce
or jewelry fields but also in any
highly detailed patterns and
areas where tiny pieces need
use a casting technology.
to be print out.
Formlabs form 3 SLA 3D printer $6000 CNC Router 1476-84 Fresco
Types of manufacturing
82
Custom-made Crochets by @skress777 apx. $130
MASS CUSTOMIZATION
Mass Customization
83
Mass
customization
is
the process of delivering widemarket goods which are modified to satisfy a specific customer’s need. It is a marketing and manufacturing technique that combines the flexibility and personalization
of
custom-
made products with the low unit
costs
associated
with
mass production. Other names for mass customization include made-to-order or built-to-order. Mass
customization
allows
a customer to design certain features of a product while still
keeping costs closer to that of mass-produced products. In some cases, the components of the product are modular. This flexibility allows the client to mix-and-match options to create a semi-custom final product. As far as for now, crochets are not mass-produced, it can be talked only about possibilities for this strategy. Also, it must be noted that for the tool (described previously), some elements of mass customization, such as a variety of separate needles, are applied.
Types of manufacturing
84
EQUIPMENT FOR MASS CUSTOMIZATION
There are two main strategies of
mass
customization
—
modularity and personalization. Modularity requires a variety of parts production and gives a user to choose only from limited usually
options. is
not
The price changing
dramatically for users in such an approach. Personalization offers a customer to take part in the design, or better to say, the decoration process. The product
can
be
produced
in a specific color, with any Product Configurator Software $30/month
Fiber Laser Marking Machine 1476-84 Fresco
additional
decoration,
but
Thus,
not
only
specific
without any changes in the
machinery required for such
basic
service
constructions.
customization
usually
Such costs
more than a simple version, but the price is still reasonable. Also, manufacturing (and delivery) time can be extended.
but
also
additional
product configuration software to offer a customer the easiest way to choose the needed option.
Equipment for mass customization
85
Speaking
about
machinery
and technology, it is seen that 3d printing also one of the most
promising
technology.
To expand this idea a bit more, it is appropriate to refer not only to advanced laser and engraving machines
and
3d
printers
The
main
disadvantage
of this technology is the price. But,
for sure,
it
will
be
dropped recently with further development. Matter and Form Scanner V2 Desktop scanner $800
but also about 3d scanning. As far as one of the main problems for embroidery hook is ergonomics, this technology can be potentially used to scan a hand of a person, and a basic handle can be adopted some
features
of
anatomy.
Artec 3D Shapify Booth $18000 CREAFORM GO!SCAN SPARK Handheld 3D scanner $40000
86
05.
87
IDEATION
Ideation
88
PROJECT BRIEF
Project Brief
89
INTRODUCTION Today, embroidery is considering not only a hobby but as a massive part of the fashion industry. Both prominent Fashion Houses and aspiring designers are applying a variety of embroidery techniques to offer new distinctive garments to their customers. Luneville embroidery is one of the best techniques to produce astonishing embellishments. It is not surprising that a lot of people study this technique either in France or at local studious and ateliers. The first lesson that each student must have learned is a way of using Luneville crochet. A student will spend hours of practice to gain a certain level of work quality. But the skill will be improving with a tool that is absolutely the same as in the 19th century or earlier.
FIND The research is required to study several fields, including the history of the crochet manufacturing itself and other alike tools. It is needed to discover the distinctive features of ancient embroidery/knitting tools. Additionally, the best practice of tools from not directly related areas must be researched to find suitable solutions. Also, studying user experience and especially pain points, would be highly beneficial for the final design. PLAY Based on the knowledge gained during the research, several possible solutions for the problem can be offered. The best one must be chosen and evaluate most clearly in verbal and visual ways. MAKE This stage requires producing rough design prototypes. Based on sketches and experiments, the CAD model with several renders of the final design must be presented. TALK During the presentation, it must be shown how the offered design corresponds to the task in brief. Also, it must be explained how the model can be produced in different types of manufacturing.
TASK These days, when not visual appearance, but ergonomics and comfort of utilizing any tool or devise is highly required, it is strange to see that evolution did not touch Luneville crochet. Thus, the task of this brief is to improve the design of both the embroidery tool and its packaging and make it more responsive to the 21st century. DETAILS It is known that Luneville crochets are mostly developing by small manufacturers or even by artisans, who are usually focusing on producing unique tools for the only customer. In this case, it would be relevant to offer a design option not only for batch production but also for massmarket manufacturers.
DELIVERABLES Project Log with detailed description of research and ideation. A product concept, including packaging, depict as a CAD model. Presentation of the concept.
Ideation
90
I LIKE TO SORT NEW KNOWLEDGE ON THE SHELVES AND TO TRAIN MY HANDS
PERSONA 1 PROFILE ASPIRING EMBROIDERER
Persona 1 profile
91
ABOUT
DESIRES, GOALS, DREAMS
Lena is an aspiring embroiderer. She is young
• Not to worry about money for business
(near 30), has a family. She did not like her
• To be a part of international fashion brand
previous job (and was not happy with a salary)
• Be on Ran-a-way
and wanted to do something else for a living. She studied embroidery online at first two years, but around a year ago finished the offline professional program of a famous master. Now she started to earn on her craft, but she wants
• Personal studio • Clients who like anything that they were offered! • Lesage!!!!!!
more (first of all — finally quit her job). She likes to create her designs. Also, she started studying business and fashion online. Lena believes that the small local studio with three or four employees is a real and reasonable dream.
NEEDS • No limited perfect quality supplies • The best tools (for embroidery and any additional) • Reliable team
MOTIVATION • To be recognized as a creative person • To earn on embroidery (as a tutor or a creator) • To enjoy the process • To focus on creation, not on boring things such selling or promotion
• To make work faster • Good masseur with reasonable price • Another hour in a day, or three as a best option • 8 hours of sleep • IP protection
LIKES / DISLIKES
FEARS & FRUSTRATION
• Beautiful tools and expensive supplies
• Nobody will like (and buy)
• The work — process, not selling or promoting
• I’m not talented
• Constant neck aching is disturbing!
• Family and friends will not support
• It is annoying than someone stole the
• Unfair competition
design... again
• It is too late to start
Ideation
ooboard
92
Persona 1 profile
93
Ideation
94
MY BASIC TOOLS ARE PHONE, LAPTOP, NOTEBOOK AND A LOT OF APPS FOR PLANNING.
PERSONA 2 PROFILE PROFESSIONAL EMBROIDERER
Persona 2 Profile
95
ABOUT
DESIRES, GOALS, DREAMS
For Irina (who is about 40), embroidery is
• Not to worry about money for business
a business. She spends most of the time
• To forget about taxes and lease issues
sorting out problems and concerns around her
• To establish a dream-team
embroidery studio, such as hiring new people, promoting social media, searching for new clients (who are ready to pay). Relationship with
• To build suitable for her working schedule • Vacation with no headache about studio!
the government is her nightmare, but she is the only person who can do that. She cannot afford to spend hours on embroidery orders (her time is money), but sometimes she makes it online (on Instagram) or to create new design samples. Studying new for her is mostly business
NEEDS
education. But she is eager to join any private
• Reliable partners and suppliers
creative classes abroad.
• The best tools (for embroidery and any additional) • Reliable and experienced team • To make work faster
MOTIVATION • To be recognized as serious business locally and internationally • To
join
professional
fashion
business
community • To be independent
• Another hour in a day, or three as a best option • 8 hours of sleep • IP protection • Stable clientele
• To discover new niches
LIKES / DISLIKES
FEARS & FRUSTRATION
• To see stable income / profit
• Taxes will be rose... again
• To talk (embroidery) online with followers
• Landlord will rise rent, and new room must
who admires her • To be a mentor (also a paid service) • Hates lazy people who just talking
be found • Any force majeure
Ideation
ooboard
96
Persona 2 Profile
97
Ideation
98
I TOOK PART IN FOUR EMBROIDERY MARATHONS FORÂ THE LAST THREE MONTHS. MY FAMILY IS NOT SO HAPPY, BUT I AM!
PERSONA 3 PROFILE EMBROIDERY AS A HOBBY
Persona 3 profile
99
ABOUT
DESIRES, GOALS, DREAMS
Natalia is a mom. This is her main job. For
• To earn something on her hobby
now, she is on maternity with her second child.
• To prove her family that she is a creative
Before, she was a good accountant, but now she doesn’t like it at all. She is a bit tired to spend all her day on family, and wants some private time. She is active Instagram user. She follows a lot of professional embroiderers, but joining an offline
person • To join offline workshop in Moscow, or at least in St.Petersburg • To provoke a bit of envy from friends
course is pricy. So, free lessons or marathons are best options. Her husband understands these intentions, but thinks this is expensive hobby. It is fine to sped a bit from family budget occasionally, like birthday or New Year presents, but children is the first priority.
NEEDS • The same materials, supplies, tools, but cheaper • To get that nice tool that Inga Marita showed in sher last story • A lot of likes
MOTIVATION • To show that she can combine family and hobby • To spend her personal time for something she likes
• Free time! • Help from husband, grandma, etc. with kids • To motivate elder kid to help her •
LIKES / DISLIKES
FEARS & FRUSTRATION
• When her works are tagged in popular
• Nobody will like (and buy)
Instagram profiles
• Husband will reject to give money
• To make something easy but beautiful
• Someone will make it better
• To be a part of community
• New hype technique will appear but she
• To
gossip
embroiderers
about
masters
or
other
cannot find the way to learn for free
Ideation
ooboard
100
Persona 3 profile
101
Ideation
102
FORM SEARCHING
To identify the main direction
but mostly some construction
of
some
features, that really needed
idea
to be implemented to solve real
design,
rough
I
made
sketches.
The
was to visually search for some
underlying
problems
and identify several solutions for that. I aimed to sketch not only
visual
outlook
(which
in my opinion must be simple)
problems of users. A more detailed study of shape was
made
during modeling.
CAD
Persona 3 profile
103
basic construction 104
• nothing to relieve finger stress
• majority of handle — solid material
• screws design — decorative
• needle can’t be changed easily
Ideation
Form searching
ergonomics
105
ergonomics
right-handed
left-handed
Ideation
106
Form searching
ergonomics
107
diameter should not be huge
rotation between fingers —
Ideation
108
surface to massage fingers
Form searching
109
engraving
indication as
how to avoid screw
this product is for women who want beauty not steampunk
Ideation
110
needle holder
thoughtful
decorative, not
all these are
Form searching
111
how to avoid screw Ideation
112
core
customization options.
For individuals - have mass
Pros don’t accept decoration.
What to do with a top part?
Form searching
113
how to avoid screw Ideation
114
how to avoid screw
Form searching
115
top - functionality Ideation
116
Form searching
top - decoration
117
Magnet base can be placed on metal parts on frame
sizes are not correct, just an idea the wire inside to regulate the length of a needle
Ideation
118
Form searching
119
Ideation
120
Experiments with the surface
CAD MODEL. VER. 01
Cad Model. Ver. 01
121
At this stage, I tried to assemble all ideas I have gained during sketching into one product. It was essential to figure out the precise dimensions that actually were not so clear previously. For example, it became clear that the indication mark should be removed from the inner part. Also, I noticed that inserting marks at the core is placed not in the middle, so it is not possible to just rotate the base, and the second pair of marks
must be set. Such minor details make a big difference, and convert a simple (at first sight) object to a complicated model. Also, it becomes clear that additional decorations that I planned while sketching is not the best idea, as far as the design looks rather modern and minimalistic. So “less is more” became an unofficial slogan for this tool.
Ideation
122
A
needle
is
the
only
piece
from all construction that I am offering to buy from a supplier. As mentioned before, for such productions, manufacturing
many
complicated
processes
(and
expensive machinery) are required.
At the same time, I am offering not to cut (which sometimes looks like ruining) the thick part, but use it as a benefit in my design. Here I put the first version of the hook model. I decided to apply some materials, which are definitely not the final. To me, it was essential to look at my design as a finished product. As far as I had to skip the “Prototype” stage, observing such a “final look” helped me analyze my product and search for additional problems.
Cad Model. Ver. 01
1.
123
Soft grip
Fully assembled construction
Also, I decided to make several additional renders to represent the whole dissembling process. In this case, I believe it is better than just an exploded view that shows only parts but not steps by step process.
Ideation
124
Top cap
Cad Model. Ver. 01
2.
125
The soft (rubber) holding part is dismounted
Ideation
126
Core holder
Core
Form searching
3.
127
The core that holding two needles is inserting to the holder
with two needles
Ideation
128
Final construction in transparent materials without a soft grip
CAD MODEL. FINAL
Cad Model. Final
129
This model is an improved version of the first one. A range of changes was made based on the previous evaluation, such as moving the core holder’s indication to the soft grip or adding an extra pair of holding marks to a core. Also, I improved the contact point between a core and its holder to make this connection more stable and prevent sliding the core through the holder. Additionally,
I
decided
to experiment with the idea of converting a grip into a cap
that protecting a needle. This idea came to me during sketching. I thought about it as an extra feature that probably will be helpful, but not essential.
Ideation
130
Cad Model. Final
131
Ideation
132
Grip + Cap
I noticed it would be nice to think about a grip not only as a relieving finger stress part but also as a cap, that preserving a needle. Even if you have a beautiful stand, sometimes it is better to place a tool near. At the same time, I did not want to add extra complexity to the design. So I assumed that installing “plus/minus” magnets in the right spots of the hook will be a good solution.
Cad Model. Final
133
echnical drawings, mm
Ideation
134
Cad Model. Final
135
Ideation
136
STAND FOR HOOK
Stand for hook
137
I had a dilemma what kind of item for storage for embroidery hook will be better: a box or a stand. From a personal perspective, the
box
seemed
more
appropriate. It is easy to put on a shelve or to a place where I’m storing all my embroidery supplies.
But,
as
research
showed, most of the users do not care about the beauty of boxes, but some equipment to keep a hook around working space would be nice to have. That is the reason for the stand modeling.
As far as this is an additional tool, I will not be a focus on manufacturing processes. I assume they will be absolutely the same as for manufacturing the hook, at least for mass production, and probably for batch as well. Offered design, actually, is quite simple, the primary value in the functionality. So I believe any craftsmen with proper modern equipment can develop such construction. Of course, it will require a lot of time, and probably developing a beautiful box will be more comfortable.
Ideation
138
Cap that holding a hook securely. The inner diameter of the cap matches the grip, which is preventing sliding.
Pin pad for needles. Foam based pad. Can be uses for both embroidery needles and regular pins
Form searching
139
Notches to place a hook.
Non-slippery surface. Rubber, also can be a magnetic.
140
06.
141
MATERIALS & PRODUCTION
Materials & Production
eneral material board
142
aluminum titanium precious metals (gold)
leather
wood
rubber
plastic
silicone
Stand for hook
143
metal
plastic
wood
plastic
aluminum titanium precious metals (gold)
Materials & Production
144
Types of Rubber Molding
COMPRESSION MOLDING
LIQUID
Compression molds vary considerably
INJECTION
Compression Molding is the simplest form
MOLDING:
LIM The custom injection molding of Liquid Silicone Rubber (LSR) uses much of the same process and equipment as injection molding. In both methods, the mold is heated and closed before the uncured rubber is injected. Unlike high consistency rubber (HCR), also known as gum stock, liquid Silicone is just that, a “high viscosity liquid” that comes in two parts, Part A and Part B. For applications where contamination is a problem or where high volumes are required, LIM is ideal. The Medical Industry prefers LIM because it is a closed system of molding, meaning, the pail or drum kits of uncured Liquid Silicone are loaded into the pumping system, injected and cured without human
Liquid
thermal
set
molding.
in size, shape, and complexity and also contain from one to a very high number of cavities. The Compression Molding process is as follows: “An uncured rubber preform, which is often shaped to the approximate size & configuration of the desired finished part, is placed directly in the mold cavity before mold closure.” During the molding process, rubber is compressed (squeezed) between the Top and Bottom plates. The uncured preform
must
weigh
more
than
the finished part for air to be driven out of the mold cavity during mold closure. If the preform weighs the same or less than the finished piece, voids, air traps, or non-fills will appear on the finished product. The excess rubber will flow into the overflow or flash groove. Two,
Injection
three, or more mold plates may be used
Silicone Molding is ideal because
depending upon part configuration
of its ability to manufacture Silicone
and complexity. The rubber is then
Products at a low cost, thus ensuring
Vulcanized (cured), utilizing both heat
competitiveness
and pressure. The result is a Rubber
Industry.
contact.
of
in
the
Medical
Product that will meet specifications.
Primary Mass Production Methods for the Product
145
Injection Molding to produce plastic parts Injection molding is an essential industrial method. It is a little bit similar to die casting, but the difference is in the raw material used. In die casting metals which require extremely high temperature for melting are used, but injection molding is mainly done on glasses, elastomers and most commonly thermoplastic and thermosetting polymers. This technique is widely used for the fabrication of thermoplastic materials. This process is done by heating of raw material and injecting them into the mold cavity by applying pressure at a specific temperature without any change in their chemical composition. APPLICATIONS: • Injection molding is used for making complex shape parts of various sizes having less wall thickness. • Typical elements like a cup, containers, toys, plumbing fittings, electrical components, telephones receivers, bottle caps, automotive parts, and components.
ADVANTAGES:
• Parts made by the injection molding process are competing with parts made by investment casting and complex machining parts. • This process has a high production rate as compared to other techniques.
DISADVANTAGE: • The initial cost/ setup cost of this process is very high due to the design, testing, and tooling of the whole equipment.
• The main advantage of this process is that
• Investment molding is generally limited
complex shape components with a small wall
to some particular kind of materials like
thickness (5-15 mm) can be easily molded and
thermoplastic materials or some polymers
removed from the die without damage.
only.
• Parts that are made by injection molding have good dimensional tolerance.
• High tooling cost i.e., the mold used, is made by several processes, and testing the overall
• The significant advantage of this technique is
cost of building a single mold is very high.
that the scrap produced by this is very less
For different parts, different kinds of molds
as compared to some other processes.
are required.
Materials & Production
146
I
believe
that
technologies
3D
are
printing
the
best
and the most innovative way to
start
batch
production
of this type of product. The technology
is
continuously
developing. It will get cheaper, but the quality will be better. Investment in equipment even now is lower than traditional machinery. With the current level, the sophisticated, unique shapes can be produced. Yes, the price, for now, is the only drawback, but it is definitely not for long. Here, I put the description of 3D printing benefits for jewelry. The reason is that the hook, both historically and technically (material
thickness,
general
dimensions), is a piece of jewelry. So such an approach is just showing that for production, not all 3D printing methods can fit.
The best & innovative Batch production method for the Product
147
3D PRINTING Using an SLA or resin 3D printer to produce 3D designs is excellent because it combines investment casting and home 3D printing. The castable resin used to print the models does not stain when it liquefies during the casting process. Casting resin produces high-quality 3D printed jewelry. The traditional way of making jewelry starts by creating a wax prototype, either manually or using a CAD machine. The equipment used limits the designs that the jewelry can be molded into. The more complex the design is, the higher the cost of the wax would be. After building the wax prototype, a 3D printer can be used in the production process. With a 3D printer, it is more comfortable, cheaper, and faster to make intricate jewelry designs. After the 3D printer has finished its job, the resin mold has to be poured in a plaster mold to create the jewelry you want. The casting can be done on your own or hire a casting company. 3D PRINTING JEWELRY WITH SLA PRINTER Printing 3D jewelry with SLA printers is effortless — to fill the resin cartridge, put the resin tray in place, and clip the wiper blade down. After that, the screen will be showing whether things are doing correctly. The printer will notify if not even. In this case, check the information on the screen to know how to adjust the printer to make it even. The next step is to send a print file to the printer. This can be done through a wireless connection, memory card, or a network cable. The screen will show the queued tasks, which is ideal if multiple jobs have to be printed. The resin inside the tank will be heated to 30 degrees Celsius and mixed with the wiper arm before printing starts. The software can be configured to notify when the models have finished printing.
Materials & Production
148
Laser Engraving Laser marking also called laser etching and laser engraving can be achieved on many metal alloys and plastics. Laser-marking can be used to put company names, logos, design patterns, dates, or part numbers etched onto surfaces of parts. Laser marking is sometimes preferred over alternative mechanical engraving methods where cutter bit heads have to be replaced on a regular basis. Where physical alteration of a material or part surface by mechanical engraving method is undesirable, laser marking can be considered.
Pad Printing Color labeling process in which a silicone pad is used to transfer a color print from a painted template to the workpiece. A smooth template (1) with the embossed pattern acts as an ink pad for a color coater
(2)
which spreads paint along the surface, filling
the engraving with paint. Depending on the shape of the object to be stamped, the pattern may be distorted to appear right after stamping. A pad rubber
is
(3)
pressed
of silicon against
the template, and a majority of the ink is thus transferred to the pad. The pad is then pressed against the object to be printed. Thanks to the pad’s flexibility, it conforms to the object’s surface. Multiple templates can be used with additional prints with other colors added to the previous print.
The ways to Customize the Product
149
Heat Transfer Heat transfer decal decorating utilizes high-quality screen printed or digitally printed images on a clear carrier that are permanently bonded to a part by the heat and pressure of the hot stamping process. Since heat transfer decals are preprinted, multicolor images are transferred to the part in one pass. Thermal transfers are pre-printed digital images that are bonded to the plastic product using heat and pressure. The end result is visually pleasing, but, most importantly, quick and affordable.
There are a lot of ways to customize this product. Here, I gave just basic techniques that can be applied. Most of them aim only to decorate the product, which is fine. It will be a significant market opportunity. My intention in terms of customization lies not in decorativeness but in technical (or better to say ergonomic) improvement of the product. I believe that such an approach can benefit users both in visual and in utilizing ways. The most potential I see in improving a soft grip. Thus, not only textures but also smart materials can be applied here.
Materials & Production
150
The ways to Customize the Product
151
Aluminum Anodizing
in a water-based solution containing mild
Anodizing is any type of method which changes the surface chemistry of various materials, in particular metals. The new surface adds several new properties to the metal, further protection against corrosion, an increase in durability, particularly a unique resistance to scratching, and aesthetic enhancement. Because aluminum is so widely used in hundreds of industries, it makes sense to have the aluminum anodized to inherit the new properties.
0.10000005 mm to 1.00000105 mm thickness. other
finishes,
• Pretreatment. for
This
aesthetic
step
is
primarily
purposes.
It
improves
the appearance of the surface before the anodizing step. The most common pretreatment is an etching, this gives the surface a satin finish or a bright dip giving a glossy, shiny finish. • Anodizing step. Anodizing aluminum is an electrochemical process. Simply put, it involves taking the aluminum alloy and
The coating itself can be anything between Unlike
acids or alkalis and various detergents.
aluminum
anodizing
preserves the metal’s natural luster, it’s texture, and the aesthetic of the metal itself.
submerging it in a large tank filled with an electrolytic solution; this is acid and waterbased solution. The exact type of acid used depends on the application. An electrical current is passed through the aluminum part; in this case, the aluminum acts as the anode.
THE ANODIZING PROCESS
A cathode made from either aluminum or lead
Before the above process, the aluminum must
is also placed in the tank. The water is broken
follow the following procedure:
down, liberating the oxygen on the aluminum surface, then combining it to form the coating,
• Cleaning. The part of being anodized
a thin, transparent layer of aluminum oxide.
must first be cleaned to remove all signs
The thickness of this coating is determined
of fabrication oils, buffing compounds, and
by the electrical current, and the amount of time
other impurities. This is done by immersion
the current is applied.
Materials & Production
152
Primarily, the design was made for mass and batch production. As far as with the current level of technology, it is possible to manufacture such products in both methods. Craft production of such design was not the primary goal of the project. Especially since these days, the craft production of embroidery hook (and batch with mostly traditional machinery related to craft) is the only manufacturing option. But according to a brief, it was required to provide a craft solution. It is offering a simplified version of the design. It was inspired by the crochet construction of 1865, where a hook was placed between two sides of the brass base and fixed by a ring. It was offered to modify this ring and make it a joint for top and bottom wooden parts. To produce the tool, it is recommended to use three operations: lost-wax casting for metal parts, using a lathe tool to create wood segments, and polishing.
Steel needle in brass pin John Shrimpton and Son, Redditch, England Design Patent: 1865 GB Rd No 4686
Craft adaptation of the design
153
It
must
be
mentioned
that
this
version
of the design requires additional refinement. For now, it is mostly an idea that definitely can be improved and manufactured in the future.
Materials & Production
154
Lost-wax Casting for metal parts The investment casting technique, also known as the lost-wax casting technique, involves creating a positive mold of the object, usually out of wax or foam, then using investment powder to make a negative mold of the object. The wax, or other material, is melted out by either a kiln or oven, leaving the negative mold behind. The negative mold is then filled with whatever media required, usually metal. At the end, the plaster is dissolved in water, leaving behind the cast object.
Craft adaptation of the design
155
Lathe cutting for wood parts A lathe is a tool that rotates the workpiece on its axis to perform various operations such as cutting, sanding, knurling, drilling, or deformation, facing, turning, with tools that are applied to the workpiece to create an object with symmetry about an axis of rotation. Woodworking lathes are the oldest variety.
Finishing: Sanding and Polishing
One Off to Mass Production Ksenia Semirova Product Design Raffles University 06.2020