Photography -
Woody Gooch.
Kuban Magazine Sophie Digby, Nigel Simmonds Agustina Ardie Marketing & Sales James Watling, Indrie Raranta Production Manager Evi Sri Rezeki Design Stuart Sullivan, Irawan Zuhri, Ida Bagus Adi Accounting Julia Rulianti Distribution Made Marjana, Putu Widi Susanto, Gede Swastika, Untoro, Didakus Nuba Publisher PT Luxury In Print Licence AHU/47558/AH/01/01/2011 Advertising Enquiries Tel: (+62 361) 766 539, 743 1804, 743 1805 www.kubanbali.com Emily wears NLP bikini. Styling: Ozlem Esen. Photo: Lukas Vrtilek. Hair & Make Up: Angie Angorro.
You know the drill. No part of this publication may be copied or reproduced electronically or otherwise without prior permission from the Publisher. Opinions expressed within this publication are those of the authors not the Publisher. The Publisher reserves the right to refuse advertising that does not comply with the magazine's design criteria. KUBAN will not be held responsible for copyright infringements on images supplied directly by advertisers and/or contributors. And that's that. Do it. Or don't do it.
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info@kubanbali.com, sales@kubanbali.com KUBAN Magazine Kompleks Perkantoran Simpang Siur Square, Jl. Setia Budi, Kuta, Bali 80361, Indonesia PT Luxury In Print
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BALI is an enigma. On the one hand it is portrayed as a paradise holiday destination based on its unique cultural practises and picturesque settings. On the other it staggers under the weight of a development boom and the concomitant waste burden generated by ever increasing numbers of visitors and those who wish to transplant themselves from their home places. In the unceasing attempt to cater for changing tastes in the market, consumption patterns have changed significantly (particularly in the past decade and a half – for locals and nonlocals alike). Much of this consumption relies on processed and packaged foodstuffs. And most of the packaging materials and the vessels these products are packed into at the checkout are based on petroleum-based plastics that are about as biodegradable as quartz. The plastic scourge on Bali is obvious just about anywhere you go. There are numerous organisations that have grasped the scale of the problem and that are attempting to deploy strategies to combat the threat that jeopardises the fundamentals that underpin the tourism industry. In talking to friends and acquaintances, who live on Bali, and travel to other iconic destinations in Southeast Asia I find their most frequent observation about these places is: “it was so CLEAN”. It is incumbent on all of us to rethink our consumption patterns and not to leave the problem in the laps of a few who are pushing the proverbial up hill with a stick. “What can I do to reduce the presence of plastic in my life,” should be a question asked every time we approach any retail outlet. The market is supply/demand driven and if we don’t demand, the supply will dry up. In this issue Andrea R. talks to two young girls who are wise
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beyond their years and have taken it upon themselves to address the plastic plague . . . and they have attracted the tacit support of Bali Governor, I Madé Manku Pastika. Melati and Isabel provide a positive example to all of us – despite their tender years – and have a plan to rid the island of plastic bags in the foreseeable future. Kite surfing is a relatively new sport on Bali and not one of the practitioners of the sport here enjoys carving it up amongst the detritus of development. Stephanie Mee catches up with the guys who founded the sport on the island and finds out what it’s all about – the ups and downs so to speak. Harrison Roach and a few old mates seek out a pristine beach in West Java for an amazing surfing adventure that led to the making some great new friends . . . an enchanting pictorial spread with some words of wisdom. “Big Mac” Pedari lets us in on a Secret Society that is planned for elite punters who wish to spend their downtime in a place that doesn’t fall under the public gaze – a playground for the rich, powerful and famous . . . We’ve got the latest in hip and hipster trends for those of you who are into Gear. And, of course, we’ll give you the good oil on where to go to find fine foodie fun and some great places to get some R&R – where comfort and luxury are available for virtually any budget. There’s all this and more in an action-packed issue of Kuban – the magazine of the people. And people, let’s put our thinking caps on to figure out how we can clean up the place we all call home so that future generations will not be burdened by what we leave behind. Joy to you all and we hope you enjoy your Kuban adventure . . . A.H.
IN Bag it man . . . and a glimpse of what's to come.
In The Mix News from our favourite peeps, perps and pups.
Gear Gear up for the sand and sunshine.
Interview Mac Pedari and the Secret Society.
Photo Essay Nikko Karki heads to Burma for a punch up. Surf 's Down
Top: photo by Anthony Dodds. Bottom: Bali Adventure Tours.
Andy Wauman on life and art.
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Travel Great waves and good people on a pristine beach in West Java. Feature BARC, BARC - the story of Bali's neglected animals and those who would save them. Plastic No More Andrea R. talks to two young warriors for the environment.
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NANO AESTHETIC & BEAUTY CENTRE, Bali Jl. Basangkasa No. 36, Seminyak Tel. +62 361 739372 Grand Indonesia West Mall 3rd FI #18, Jakarta Pusat Tel. +62 21 23581101 Senayan Jl. Hang Lekir No. 4D, Jakarta Selatan Tel. +62 21 7210147 Kelapa Gading Jl. Raya Kelapa Nias Blok QE 1 No. 6, Jakarta Utara Tel. +62 21 4516252 Kuala Lumpur D3-G4-6 Solaris Dutamas No. 1 Jl. Dutamas 1, 50480 Malaysia Tel. 007-6036-2065-618
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Queen's Table Sublime tastes from the Subcontinent.
Advertiser Directory Find out what's where and who's who in the zoo.
Wild Things
Kitchenette
Out
Susan Hu hits Bali's best adventure playgrounds.
Beachside bohemian.
Adventures in Gnomesville.
Fashion Going swimmingly on the Island of the Gods..
Staying Power Three cool places to stay and play in Kuta.
Havana Urban chic for wine and cigar lovers. Top: Surf 's down. Bottom: BARC.
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Hai Tide Beach Resort Revamped The last 12 months have seen a flurry of activity at Hai Tide Beach Resort, where improvements have been under way to make this the hippest, most happening spot on Nusa Lembongan. The two-storey Garden Lumbungs and Absolute Beachfront Lumbungs have been outfitted with brand new furnishings, and room service is available in each via telephones located both upstairs and downstairs. The gorgeous new private swimming pool is also now ready for sun tanning and swimming the days away, and the architecturally stunning Hai Bar & Grill is the perfect spot to grab a sunset drink or wood-fired pizza while looking out at the beach, the turquoise waters of the bay and the silhouette of Mount Agung in the background. www.balihaicruises.com Join the Circus at High Flyers Bali Trapeze School With a motto like “I Believe I Can Fly”, you know you’re in for an actionpacked and awesome day at the High Flyers Bali Trapeze School. Learn how to swing through the air with the grace of an acrobat in this safe and controlled environment that aims to boost self-confidence and create memories that will last a lifetime. As a new addition, High Flyers is also offering a Circus Workshop where participants can learn to juggle, spin plates, and balance the diabolo. A variety of packages are on offer for both young and old, and groups big and small. www.highflyersbali.com
Sip and Share at Sky Bar Is there anything better than enjoying fine food and drinks while gazing out at spectacular vistas of the cobalt sea? Only if those drinks come at half the price and the locale is one of Bali’s most scenic spots. Head to the Sky Bar at The Mulia Bali for light bites and two-for-one offers on selected beers, wines and cocktails during Happy Hour every day from 4pm to 7pm. On weekends, you can also chill out amid the gentle Indian Ocean breezes to the tunes of live DJs spinning sundowner beats. www.themulia.com
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KUBAN ONLINE
K-POD We’re doing our best to distract you from Facebook on your mobile with the K-Pod app for apple iOS. Rejoice! Let us guide you to the best bars, spas, clubs, shops and hotel pads in deconstructed style. K-Pod is the first Kuta and Tuban specific app available for Apple iOS. Coming soon.
Get close and personal with our wildlife • Over 350 rare & exotic animals in lush tropical garden • Up close & personal feeding encounters • Breakfast With Elephants • One of a kind experience Mahout for a day • The best trail in Bali for Elephant Expedition • Unique zoovenirs • Discover nocturnal animals at Night at the Zoo • Experience dining with the wildlife • Wildlife Education
Bali Zoo
@zoo_bali
Jl. Raya Singapadu, Sukawati, Gianyar 80582, Bali, Indonesia t. +62 361 294357 f. +62 361 298608 info@bali-zoo.com www.bali-zoo.com Reserve online and save 15% off on zoo admission
www.bali-zoo.com
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Nebula Room Nestled along one of Kuta’s busiest side streets - Poppies Lane II - is Dekuta Boutique Hotel’s new restaurant and bar venue, the Nebula Room. Festooned with an eclectic mix of industrial inspired interior designs, retro/ vintage decorations, and excellent service, this hip spot is one of the new up-and-coming venues to check out if you’re in the Kuta area. Nebular offers a wide variety of unique and tasty cuisine, combining everything from bold Asian fusion to delicate European influences. The famous Stellar Burger, a very large burger indeed, is a must try, as well as the Thai Chicken Laksa or the Helium Pork Ribs. www.facebook.com/nebularoomkuta
Spring in Paradise at Bali Sheraton Kuta Resort Celebrate new beginnings this spring with a special promotion at Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort. Overlooking the stunning Indian Ocean and conveniently located next to Bali’s newest boutique shopping centre, Kuta Beachwalk, Sheraton Bali Kuta Resort is an idyllic gathering place for families, couples and friends looking to explore one of Bali’s finest beaches. Now for a limited time, guests who make reservations 30 days in advance will receive a 30 per cent discount on all available rooms. The offer starts at USD $140++ plus tax, and is good through 29 December 2014. www.sheratonbalikuta.com
First Nail Supplies Store in Bali What girl (or guy for that matter) doesn’t like having great looking nails? For nail lovers, spa managers or salon owners, Nails Department is the island’s first nail supplies store on the island. Featuring high-end brand name manicure and pedicure products from around the world like O.P.I, Jessica, London and Trinity, this is your one-stop shop for nail polishes in hundreds of hues, as well as accessories and nail tools. The knowledgeable staff here will also be offering workshops, seminars, short courses and consultations for everything to do with nails. www.nailsdepartment.com
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Glow Living Beauty Opens at Beachwalk Bali Indonesia’s first specialised beauty and lifestyle store, Glow Living Beauty, has just opened its second location in Beachwalk Bali. Like its sister store in Jakarta, this all-in-one shop carries some of the world’s most prominent names in cosmetics and skincare like Lancome, Shu Uemura, Shiseido, and Anna Sui, as well as fragrances from Gucci, Dolce & Gabbana, and Hugo Boss. Heavenly home fragrances and scented body soaps round out the mix. www.glowlivingbeauty.com
WANA is the first of its kind in Bali, a restaurant set within a tropical rainforest. Experience exploring the wild, while sampling exotic South East Asian cuisine and sipping seductive cocktails without having to travel to the jungle. Open daily from 09:00 a.m - 10:00 p.m.
www.wanarestaurant.com WANA RESTAURANT.LOUNGE.BAR
@WANA_RESTAURANT
BALI ZOO Jl. Raya Singapadu, Sukawati, Gianyar, Bali 0361 294357 *No admission ticket to the Zoo is required when dining at Wana
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Luxury at Sea With Simpson Marine Monte Carlo Yachts (MCY) has appointed Simpson Marine as its exclusive dealer in Southeast Asia, providing customers in the region with professional sales and service support for its range of stylish and original Italian designed luxury motor yachts. Built at a state-of-theart facility in Monfalcone, Italy, the MCY collection was created by famous Italian design house, Nuvolari Lenard, and balances the latest technology with refined, contemporary elegance. Simpson Marine will provide a full range of sales and service support for this exciting new range from its offices in Singapore, Thailand, Indonesia and Malaysia. www.simpsonmarine.com NEO to Open in Kuta With the ever increasing demand for high-quality budget hotels, Archipelago International is gearing up to bring their third NEO Hotel to the Island of the Gods. NEO Kuta will open its doors on Jalan Raya Tuban, just outside the buzzing centre of Kuta. Designed in a stylish and contemporary style befitting the latest trends in hotel design, the brand has been described as hip and new, with aesthetics reminiscent of cutting-edge fashion designs. In an effort to “bring sexy back” to the hotel scene, NEO Hotels is a brand fit for savvy young travellers and Generation Y parents alike. www.neohotels.com
Pasta Party @ Bene Guests at Bene will have the opportunity to indulge in a special menu offering this spring along with an educational lesson in pasta from the restaurant’s executive chef. Offered nightly from 6pm until close, the Italian “Pastable” menu provides diners with a chance to enjoy an Italian style rijsttafel feast consisting of many small plates varying in taste profiles and textures. For those looking to expand their culinary knowledge, Chef Renzelli will also offer “Pastatale” this season, a culinary event showcasing the art of homemade authentic Italian pasta. www.sheratonbalikuta.com
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Jim’Bar’N Rooftop Bar Located high on the rooftop of the funky Harris Hotel Bukit Jimbaran, this sophisticated and elegant venue offers a sweeping 360-degree view of one of Bali’s most beautiful vistas of Jimbaran Bay, Kuta, Sanur and the rugged southern coast of the Bukit. With four circular plush lounges laid out as a centerpiece of the wooden decking, framed by long, cozy sofas along the edges of the rooftop, this new spot perfect for lazy days overlooking the beach, a romantic night with a loved one or for some of those sexy signature cocktails we all know we love to enjoy. Saturdays and Sundays they offer the Jim’Bar’N modern breakfast from 10am to 3pm. And for those who like a little bit of action, every Saturday they offer the Saturday Sense Fever with the resident DJ Mistral and her “Soul in Sunset” performance. www.bukitjimbaran-bali.harrishotels.com
Deus Does Brunch After much anticipation, Deus has finally unveiled its Saturday Custom Brunch at the Deus Ex Machina Temple of Enthusiasm in Canggu. For IDR 220,000++, you get free flowing viennoiseries and breads from Monsieur Spoon – homemade jams, organic honey, and fresh juices, plus up to four choices of veggies, meats, eggs, sweets and muffins. The brunch runs every Saturday from 11am to 3pm, and reservations are recommended. www.deuscustoms.com
Refreshing Facials by Pevonia Botanica at Ashoka Spa Freshen up this spring and summer at the tranquil Ashoka Spa at The Bali Dynasty Resort, where new, revolutionary facial treatments make use of the one of the world's leading face, body and spa care lines, Pevonia Botanica. Enjoy a 20 per cent discount on each facial treatment by Pevonia with your choice of Ashoka's Botanica Facial, Anti Aging Facial, Men’s Face Treatment and Refresher Facial. www.balidynasty.com The 100-Miles Food Philosophy Chef Nyoman Budiarta brings his legendary talent of Balinese culinary artistry to the table with a masterful combination of modern Balinese cuisine and the 100-Miles philosophy. This eco-friendly initiative means that the culinary team works with local farmers and fisherman to source products that are found no more than 100 miles (160 kilometres) from the restaurant. Thus, in addition to creating beautiful dishes made with the finest ingredients, Sembilan also gives back to the local economy. www.pullmanbalilegiannirwana.com
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Warrior’s Legacy Dog Sanctuary by BARC Over the years BARC has successfully rescued thousands of Bali street dogs suffering from starvation, abuse and neglect. Despite working tirelessly to find forever homes for rehabilitated dogs, the influx of dogs far exceeded the capacity of the rehabilitation centre, which prompted the team to search for new digs. The answer was a plot of land an hour outside of Ubud, where BARC has created the world’s first dog sanctuary. Now over 170 unadoptable dogs have a place to run, be free, relax and retire. The Warrior’s Legacy Dog Sanctuary will be open to the public later this year. www.balidogrefuge.com
THE EXPERIENCE ULTIMATE SURFING
COURSES & RENTALS LOCATIONS: LEGIAN, SANUR
JIMBARAN & KUTA
FOR MORE INFORMATION
+62 361 735858 w w w. rip curl s c h o o l of s ur f.co m info @ rip curl scho olofsur f.com
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Parrot AR.Drone 2.0 Elite Edition Quadricopter $379.99 www.amazon.com
Oakley Frogskins from IDR1.400.000 www.oakleyindonesia.com
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The Bukit Climber by Deus Ex Machina POA.
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Parrot AR.Drone 2.0 Quadricopters From $300 www.amazon.com
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Putra (Pulu) Hermawan night surfing at Komune.
NIGHT SURFING
SPECTACULAR
Come and watch Komune’s amazing night surfing demonstrations at Keramas Beach, Bali. Under our custom built lights, experienced surfers take to the waves each night to put on an incredible show in front of the spectactular Komune Beach Club. Night surfing sessions are also available for guests with advance booking. Please check with us for more details.
www.komuneresorts.com/nightsurf
t +62 361 301 8888
Komune ResoRt & Beach cluB Jl. Pantai Keramas, Keramas, Bali, Indonesia e info.bali@komuneresorts.com, reservations.bali@komuneresorts.com
W www.komuneresorts.com
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Mac.
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Photographer Nikko Karki went to Burma to check out the unique Burmese martial art of Lethwei – a hard-core, no gloves, full contact sport that is not for the feint of heart. What he found there was a group of young men who were entirely dedicated to their art, personable, welcoming and friendly . . . until they stepped into the ring.
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AIRPORT TRANSFERS - PRIVATE TOURS - GOLF TRANSFERS GILI TRAWANGAN AND LOMBOK TRANSFERS - VOLCANO & COASTLINE SKY TOURS - AERIAL FILMING - MEDICAL EVACUATIONS Phone: +62 361 767466, +62 361 766582 Email: sales@airbali.com
jack taylor gets the
lowdown from
renaissance man andy wauman.
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board burn.
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ANDY Wauman is a multi-media artist who leaves you unsure whether to chuckle or cringe. Painting, sculpture, photography, film and the written word are all in his repertoire that reveals the underlying contradictions of his world – provoking you to ponder why things are the way they are. Born in Belgium, his artistic life began with painting but a fascination for language steered him to wards other mediums of expression. Spending the past 10 years hopping from one country to the next on a journey of artistic exploration, Andy’s solo exhibitions have been staged in galleries across Europe, the U.S. and Asia. Later this year he will begin an art residency at the International Studio and Curatorial Program in Brooklyn, New York. There is an anarchic humour in much of the work he has created over the years and his recent show in Bali did not fail to impress. Why did you decide to spend time on Bali? One of my best friends, filmmaker Fleur Boonman, has been living on the island and did not stop talking about it. And last summer I met Omee who invited to come and visit Bali after my trip to Hong Kong. Once my solo exhibition of new paintings, sculptural work and a film at Art Statements Gallery in Hong Kong was over, instead of going back to Europe I flew straight here. I try to avoid winters and follow the surf. It wasn’t just the surf you came here for though, how did your art show A Single Match Below a Fire go down in Canggu? It was lots of fun and the Deus crew is a bunch of rad people . . . especially Anthony Dodds who is an amazing person and photographer. I must say that the show at Deus also stands as a turning point within my artistic work, as I integrated surf culture for the first time . . . new beginnings. The show was inspired by your surroundings in Bali but also influenced by ,and dedicated to Lindsey, who is she? Lindsey is a girl from the U.S. who has been living in Kyoto, Japan, for a while where she translates Japanese poetry into English. We met through mutual friends and because of our day-to-day communication she became a part of my show at Deus. I see my art as one big social sculpture. My art is the result of my environment and the people around me.
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Bottoms up.
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Portrait: Vanessa Bieler.
Talking of sculptures, how did your collaboration with Pintor Sirait come about?
collectors buying your work, are you making a decent living from your creations?
Brice from Kakilima in Batu Bolong introduced me to Pintor Sirait. The sculpture Heart Architect is the direct result of this encounter. His amazing skilled crew made this metal sculpture.
It comes with ups and downs and if you make some cash you always invest it back into new pro-jects. Money is a tool. As long as I can pursue what I’m passionate about I’ll be fine.
From what we’ve heard your exhibition here drew quite a crowd, were there any memorable reactions from people?
Has it been difficult making a living out of doing what you love?
I was surfing at Batu Bolong and was stopped on the beach and some dude said to me that my show at Deus inspired him. It was at this moment that I realised that the fusion of my art and my love for surfing had become one and the same.
If it wasn’t difficult then I wouldn’t be doing it.
Sounds like you made quite an impression on the locals at Batu Bolong, you were down there pretty much every day while you were in Bali. Do you already miss the morning surf? Yeah I miss it a lot. You get used to a surf break and it was so much fun. But I have been surfing all over California over the past few weeks and discovered a nice long board spot – Puamana, here in Maui, Hawaii. Just like surfing, art is another outlet for self-expression . . . what would you say are the most important influences on your art? My motivation, passion and inspiration shifts and grows along with the evolution of my personal path. I have always been fascinated by language, whether it’s the written word or visual language of emotion. What inspires you to create a new piece? The revolution of everyday life. You’ve built up quite a following, with some serious
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Hard work goes a long way, but when you’re not working on a new piece of art what do you to unwind and have fun? I’ve been spending my time travelling, connecting with creative people, catching as many waves as I possibly can, collecting, using and experimenting with my new collection of old cameras. I actually just launched my new website which covers my work in the field of photography. It sounds like your journey is far from over, and you’ve already visited so many different places. Any favourites? Every place I visit is interesting in some sort of way, but Iceland and California are definitely in my top five. I’m working on a new film here in the jungle in Maui and I must say that I love it here. I could live here for a while. Probably will. Are we going to see you back in Bali soon? I’m travelling through the U.S. until the end of August. After then I’ll be in Europe for three months, so in December I might come back to Bali, to avoid winter and get some good waves! Check out Andy Wauman’s recent excursion into photography and film at gutterdust.com.
Hallelujah.
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a bunch of old friends meets a bunch of new friends in west java where the surf is sublime.
PHOTOGRAPHY: ANTHONY DODDS. WATER SHOTS: WOODY GOOCH TEXT: Harrison Roach
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I eased into my first wave, gliding across its silky surface and taking special care to not do too much. This little wave isn’t perfect. Sure … it could be bigger, more critical or less slow. But sometimes the character of a place isn’t simply defined by its breaks. It’s defined by the people who live there and the experiences you take away. We’re not looking for the perfect place; we’re looking for the right one. Don’t get me wrong … our West Java trip was filled to the brim with fun and plentiful point waves and reef peelers. Just look at the photo evidence if you’re still unsure. We surfed for hours on uncrowded waves against a dramatic jungle backdrop. But what I really mean to say is that we did other stuff too. Fun stuff. Matt (Cuddles) Cuddihy, Zye Norris and I arrived in this small coastal village with stiff legs and a sore back from a day spent in the car. As we found out later, our young photographer friend, Woody Gooch, had had a more harrowing trip than rest of us. It turns out that the Indonesian-style toilets were all too much for young Woody and he left the toilet experience marked in more ways than one. To be fair, Woody had never travelled overseas but that didn’t stop him from adopting the nickname “Skiddy” Gooch. After arriving, we were reunited with our local mates, Deni and Husni. These two guys were the main reason we had come to West Java and I was keen to see Deni’s ever-evolving surf style. I was in need of new inspiration and let’s face it, we were all eager to escape the crowds on the Noosa points. The first few days were spent in and out of the water. Well, mostly in and a little out. Sometimes we would get bored of surfing the 300-meter point wave (my bag of tricks was getting low) and we would swim out to jump from the Tsunami tower. This really didn’t seem to get old as our creativity was always conjuring up new and amusing mid-air poses. I think I spent a good half hour working up the courage to do a front flip off the tower. Our bodies tapped into the easy rhythm of the small coastal village. Wake up early, go to bed early. The village was quickly becoming as familiar as the potholes which lined its roads. However, perhaps what stood out for us most was the friendly locals. Unlike other places, we paddled out to big smiles and paddled in to welcoming shop owners. And I don’t mean “welcoming” in the way that somewhere like Bali is. West Java is different in that no one hassles you or shoves souvenirs in your face. We hung out at little restaurants that often doubled as homes and spent our meal-wait playing with local kids. Some school kids even let us join in a game of soccer on the beach, which they undoubtedly regretted (our skills left much to be desired).
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Cut back.
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"The heavy rain seemed to trigger some kind of madness from EVERYONE in the water."
Rail wash.
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After watching Deni effortlessly hang 10 a gazillion, trillion
times, we decided to go on a little trip up stream. We piled into small wooden boats, loaded with film cameras and a keen sense of adventure. Turquoise water lapped at our sides as we cruised through thick jungle.
Unlike other parts of Indonesia, we were hard-pressed to find a floating coke can or disintegrating chip packet. It was truly
pristine. The last part of the journey involved leaving the boats behind as the rock walls had narrowed the river.
We swam against the strong current and quickly found
ourselves in a natural playground. In the heart of the canyon, vines hung from every wall and rock ledges seemed perfectly designed for jumping off. We spent hours enjoying its
otherworldly appeal and returned back to the village to ensure a late afternoon wave.
As the swell picked up, we joined the locals for multiple
sessions in monsoon squalls. The heavy rain seemed to trigger some kind of madness from all in the water and we hooted
and shouted as we slid along the reef peeling right-handers. Whether it was Zye on his 9’6 log or the local kids on their
recycled, patched up shortboards, we were all undeniably and uncontrollably ecstatic.
However, as we know, all good things must come to an end
and we found that this swell was no exception. So, instead of
despairing, we hopped on our borrowed motorbikes and spent a little time indulging our boyish urges. It turns out that Zye
hadn’t had enough of surfing and wanted to test his abilities on dry land. In hindsight, I think we can all admit that this may
not have been a great idea. Nevertheless, this session provided
hours of amusement and we went to bed almost forgetting the lack of swell. Almost.
Before we knew it, the day of our departure had come. I gave
one last look at the beloved point. Sure, the sand on the beach wasn’t all nice and white like you see on tourism posters for tropical getaways. There was even a little rubbish scattered across the beach. But it didn’t matter.
The people we had met, the waves that we had surfed and the
places that we had been were more than enough. This place was our kind of perfect. When we said our goodbyes to our old and new mates, we knew it wouldn’t be for too long.
Postcards home.
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We care.
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Linda Buller is a woman who has worn many hats – tram driver, acupuncturist, artist – but her current hat is fearless crusader for Bali dogs. As the founder and top dog of the non-profit Bali Dog Adoption and Rehabilitation Centre (BARC), she and her tireless team have rescued and rehabilitated thousands of dogs that otherwise would have been left suffering and starving on the streets of Bali. No easy feat for a woman who started with nothing more than passion and a prayer. “I first came to Bali in 1985, and that’s when I saw the animals suffering,” Linda says. “Things were so much worse 20 to 30 years ago. Absolutely shocking. There were no vets, no clinics, no vaccines, no help for the animals. “I used to see dogs walking along with their legs ripped off, and dogs that were covered in maggots with holes all over them. I remember one time I was feeding a dog on the street, a blind dog, and this guy came up in steel-toed boots and just kicked the dog in the head. This was the type of stuff that was going then.” Linda left Bali with a general sense of unease and the feeling that she needed to do something for the animals. It took her 12 years to return but when she did, the ball started rolling. “I didn’t physically go out looking for dogs,” she says. “It was like they were in front of me everywhere – they would place themselves in front of my motorbike or house. Almost as if they were saying ‘hey, here I am, take me home’. “There was this one dog in front of Casa Luna, a poor emaciated sick little animal who would curl up on the pavement and crawl under the tables, but nobody would help her. So my girlfriend and I took her up to Penestanan where I was living and gave her a blanket and fed her properly, and she was so happy. Unfortunately, she died two months later. In retrospect I know now that it was probably a blood parasite. From then on, I just kept collecting dogs.” As Linda’s house slowly grew into what could only be described as a canine circus, she realised that the space was simply not ample enough for her to house all of the dying and destitute dogs she came across.
“I had an idea in my head that I’d set up a foster home in Penestanan. That image is really clear in my head still, and very different to what we’ve set up now. The dream was that the dog refuge would be in the spot where all the villas are now. Thank god we never set up there. It never would have worked with all the building that’s happened since,she says”
In 2012, BARC moved to new digs on Jalan Raya Pengosekan and began working with Good Karma, a pet shop that helps with medical care, shelter and financial donations. Today the BARC Good Karma Rehab Centre houses over 200 rescued dogs, puppies, cats, kittens, monkeys, iguanas, an albino hedgehog and Wally the pig.
While Linda searched for the perfect locale for a dog rehabilitation centre, she began working with a local foundation on a voluntary basis and going out on the streets to help the dogs. However, she had issues with the way the dogs were being treated even by the people who were supposed to be helping them.
“It’s a real miracle that BARC has survived and gotten to be what it is,” Linda says. “But we know we’re going to be big and achieve big things because BARC is going to be all over Indonesia, maybe all over Asia, and we’ve got the notice of a lot of people all over the world now. They know and love us because they know that we love the dogs individually. And we have integrity.”
“It was like they thought the dogs had no feelings,” she says. “They were just netting them and leaving them in the sun or keeping them locked up in cages. They were trying to do the best they could, but I really wanted to set something up the way I wanted to do it.” In 2006, Linda found a prime spot for the dog refuge – an abandoned gallery on Jalan Raya Lodtunduh. Using her own money, she built various pens and spaces where she could foster the dogs, attend to their illnesses and injuries, and allow the dogs to recover and retire. “I had contracted the space for six years, so I knew that I only had six years to make whatever work. And in that time, we made it work. Ebony came over and we set up a programme to sponsor dogs. We got just enough money to do that, but we knew that if we kept going slow and steady, we’d get to where we needed to be,” she says. “I also set it up so that anyone who wanted to work with me had to learn to love the dogs and treat the dogs with respect. That’s why BARC is different to any other place. We’re not going to take a dog in unless we can help their life and help them be happy.” Things progressed slowly but surely, and over the years BARC has expanded to include vaccination and sterilisation services, a street programme to help mistreated dogs, education programmes in the local community, an adoption campaign, online sponsorship options and the Charity Shop that raises money for BARC and selected children’s charities in Bali.
One such person happens to be Brigitte Bardot, who recently donated €10,000 to sponsor and feed the BARC menagerie. Other donors from around the world have also chipped in to help build BARC’s new Warrior’s Legacy Dog Sanctuary north of Ubud, and locals and expats have been quick to foster animals and attend the weekend Adoption Days that take place around the island. “We’re really excited about the dog sanctuary,” Linda says. “It’s on one hectare of land, and it’s the perfect home for our unadoptable dogs with health or mental conditions. They can live out their retirement there along with dogs awaiting adoption. It will also be an information centre and a place where people can come and stay, knowing that the money will go towards helping the dogs. “Our education programme is also growing, and that’s really important. If we can get in touch with the younger generation, we can prevent future problems. One of the ways I want to do that is by hosting puppet shows for kids that highlight the issue of cruelty to animals. “There is also a new law now in Indonesia that says that it’s illegal to be cruel to animals. I want to get that written up, printed and spread around. I want people to know that cruelty to animals is keeping a dog in a cage for their whole life. Dogs feel like you do. So we need to push it, use it, let people know, and put it on public forums.” www.balidogrefuge.com.
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His master's voice.
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Dog day afternoon.
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BALI has become infamous for its piles of garbage and beachside plastic dumps, almost as much as it is famous for being a colourful and fertile tropical paradise. At least underneath . . . Many of us surely have imagined being at the frontier of saving this magical place from the torments of plastic and the modern world’s contributions to an otherwise sustainable and wellbalanced culture. But have any of us actually done something? Melati and Isabel Wijsen are the two fearless founders of Bye Bye Plastic Bag Bali. Not only are they brave at the ages of only 13 and 11 but they have enough enthusiasm to inspire the whole world, if it will just listen. They are on a quest to collect one million signatures on Avaaz – a web-based campaigning community – for their petition to ban plastic bags on Bali by 2015. And Bali Governor, I Made Mangku Pastika, has agreed to implement this law if they are able to do so. The initiative has already received support from many local and international businesses and foundations. The Dutch/Indonesian sisters grew up on Bali and even in their short time here, they have witnessed the rapid changes that are occurring on the island. The idea for the initiative was born on a weekend last October while the family was staying in the mountains. Sitting in the middle of the jungle with only the beauty of Mother Nature around them, the girls started talking about how nice it was to be in this green environment without pollution. When she got home, Melati – the older of the two sisters – went
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straight to her laptop and created a Facebook Like Page, with the name of Bye Bye Plastic Bags. It started with one like from her self, then another from her parents, and suddenly someone they didn’t know had liked the page. This gave the girls motivation to continue, and they made a video about the beauty and lack thereof on the island. They were invited to participate at the Global Issues Networking Youth Conference in October 2013. “We got into this process and then we got invited to the GIN conference and it all just started rolling and rolling,” Melati says. “And now we’re here,” Isabel chimes in. “Sometimes it gives me goose bumps. It was just an idea. And now almost everybody we meet are like: ‘Oh, you’re the Bye Bye Plastic Bag girls!’” Melati says. They had been learning about significant people like Nelson Mandela and Martin Luther King Jr. at school the week before the idea came to life. “We wanted to be like them and we didn’t want to start at an old age . . . we wanted to start now,” Isabel says. These young girls have real passion. They want to make a difference – when others their age are worrying about boys and make-up Melati and Isabel are worrying about being significant. So far they have about five per cent of the signatures they need before Governor Pastika will officially ban the production and distribution of plastic bags on Bali. “But that’s okay, I have every faith in it. And Avaaz (has advised) that once what we’re doing is more established, they want to give it a push,” the girls’ mother, Elvira, says. Melati adds: “Even if we don’t make it by 2015 . . . it’s not the end
The sisters Wijsen.
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Plastic not fantastic.
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of the world. At least we’re doing it.”
here in Bali.”
The Bye Bye Plastic Bags movement involves some 20 children between the ages of nine and 15, who all help in their own ways – mainly by organising presentations at their schools and spreading the word about the initiative.
Isabel says: “We want to let you know that we will definitely not stop until the first question you are asked when you arrive on Bali is, ‘do you have any plastic bags to declare?’”
Sonny (13), a local surfer, is a part of the team. Although he travels a lot for surf competitions he has been a valuable addition by way of spreading the word to as many people as possible . . . including many famous people. The team is made up of youngsters from local and international schools on Bali who, amongst themselves, divide up the tasks important to keeping the drive alive – media liaison, fundraising, and public presentations. Melati and Isabel realise, however, that if plastic bags are banned an alternative needs to be found. One of the solutions they have come up with is switching from plastic bags to cotton bags. Isabel says they plan to ask hotels for used bed sheets so that they can make bags without buying new materials. “And by making bags we can create jobs for people in Bali who don’t have jobs, for example the Safe Childhood foundation,” Melati says. “We’re planning on working with the mothers there and they’ll sew the bags and make the designs . . . and in that way they’ll earn money without sending their children onto the streets to beg.” “The Bali Women Widows will also be making the cotton bags,” Isabel says, “they are ladies who were left behind when their husbands were killed in the bombing in 2002. And there are other companies reaching out to us as well . . . like Eco Bali and a company from Jakarta that produces paper bags.” Melati and Isabel tell me about a 16-year-old girl from Turkey who won an award for finding a formula to create bags that are biodegradable using banana peels . . . They are referring to the 2013 Science in Action Award winner Elif Bilgin who was driven to find a sustainable alternative to petroleum-based plastics. Using the starch from banana, mango or potato peels, she found a formula that produces an alternative to plastic without harming the environment. “So we want to get in contact with her because she’s a child and she didn’t give up . . . this is a child-driven initiative and maybe we can get the formula,” Melati says. “We have lots of bananas
Elvira supports her daughters in every way possible and has had to stand up for them many times. “Some people say: ‘Why do you only do the plastic bags, there’s so much (more) rubbish’, and I say, ‘listen, it started with one (Facebook) like, now they have a pilot village (project)’ . . .” Pererenan is close to Canggu and close to where the girls live. With official approval and support from the head of the village, they will be implementing the “no plastic bags” policy gradually. Every family gets eco-friendly bags, and all shops and warungs get 500 paper bags for free. “Some politicians are asking what we want (from them) and we say we don’t want anything – we don’t ask for money, we only want your support and approval to continue with this initiative,” Elvira says. As fulltime students at Green School and with homework, the girls are very busy these days but somehow they still manage to make time to visit other schools, host events and lead presentations. “Sometimes I ask why am I doing this? It’s so hard. Then I think, what would I be doing if I didn’t? I’d probably be sitting on the couch watching TV. And this is way better,” Melati says. I ask the girls what it was like to meet India Arie and they both exclaim, “She is just amazing, I love her songs.” “We met with India because we were invited to a dinner by John Hardy to meet with her and introduce her to Bye Bye Plastic Bag. She was really supportive and keen to help. We got her signature and (those of) all her crew,” Melati says. India invited the girls to her concert and encouraged the crowd to sign the petition. Melita and Isabel collected 250 signatures amongst the 350 people at the event . . . the only reason 100 didn’t sign was because they’d already done so on Avaaz. The Bye Bye Plastic Bag team will stage a festival at the Green School June 14th with workshops and events. If you would like to help the girls reach their goal of one million signatures to ban plastic bags on Bali, please visit their official website for more information. www.byebyeplasticbags.com
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Bali Adventure Tours AS one of Bali’s longest established tour companies, Bali Adventure Tours has gained a solid reputation for its breathquickening trips, treks and tours around the island, as well as its world-renowned Elephant Safari Park and Lodge. Whether you’re looking to propel yourself down Class II rapids, meander through a wonderland of emerald green rice paddies, or get pampered at the spa while looking out at elephants roaming the grounds, Bali Adventure Tours has you covered. Established in 1990 by husband and wife team Nigel and Yanie Mason, B.A.T. was the first white water rafting company on the island, and they set the bar high for those who would follow by using some of the best equipment on the market, employing highly trained professional instructors and never compromising on the safety and comfort of their guests. Over the years, their reputation for adrenaline-pumping wet and wild adventures grew, and they began to offer additional outdoor activities like trekking and cycling. By 1997, B.A.T. had expanded to include the world-renowned Elephant Safari Park – one of the only elephant parks on the island that is both a member of the World Zoo Association and has a non-profit foundation dedicated to the protection and preservation of elephants. Here they house a herd of 27 Sumatran elephants, a museum, information centre and international
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restaurant, as well as the luxurious Elephant Safari Park Lodge where guests can wake up to see elephants strolling past their bungalow. Dine at the Park Restaurant overlooking the elephant bathing lake, and sip cocktails under the stars next to the elephant-themed pool. The past few years have also been good to B.A.T. as Nigel and Yanie’s sons Jian and Shan have come on board to make this a truly family-run operation. In addition, the company has relocated to a multi-million dollar rafting centre in Payangan that has been built to the highest international standards. The new centre has everything you would expect of a five-star outfit, including stateof-the-art equipment, first aid facilities, and even an evacuation helipad for emergencies. Besides exhilarating white water rafting trips down river runs, rapids, drop-offs and waterfalls, and unique accommodation, Bali Adventure Tours also offers river kayaking along snaking waterways, jungle trekking through pristine swathes of forest, mountain cycling at what feels like the top of the world, and once-in-a-lifetime daytime and twilight tours through verdant vegetation on the back of a gentle Sumatran elephant. Want to do it all? They can even customise full-day, half-day and multi-day tours that allow you to try a little bit of everything. Telp: 0361 721480
www.baliadventuretours.com
Sumatran stare at Bali Safari and Marine Park.
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Elephant Safari at Taro. B.A.T.
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Bali Zoo EVER wondered what it would be like to get up close and personal with rare beasts like Komodo dragons, Sumatran tigers, orang-utans and sun bears? If so, then Bali Zoo is your go-to place. Spread over nearly 10 hectares of lush landscape in Gianyar Regency, the zoo is home to over 350 animals – the majority of which are native to Indonesia and some of which are rare and endangered. Guests can stroll through the shady tree-lined walkways to visit swinging gibbons, chattering cockatoos and furry binturongs hanging from the trees, and there are even hands-on stations where you can feed, pet and snap photos with the animals. Bali Zoo was conceived and developed independently by one individual with a deep love for animals and a passion to conserve and protect Indonesia’s natural wildlife and beauty. Anak Agung
Gde Putra used his own funds to build the zoo on private land in his village of Singapadu, and despite having no financial assistance from the government or private donors, he managed to create a space that adheres to international zoological standards and celebrates the flora, fauna and biodiversity of Bali. For those with a soft spot for elephants, Bali Zoo offers plenty of opportunities to spend time with these gentle beasts. The Elephant Expedition takes you on a scenic tour of green trails, flowing rivers, cascading waterfalls and a centuries-old temple, all while on the back of a lumbering Sumatran elephant. If you really want to bond with the elephants, try the Mahout for the Day experience. With this full-day package you work with a professional mahout to learn how to feed, bathe, give verbal commands and steer the
elephants. The tour also includes lunch and high tea at Wana Restaurant, a 45-minute nature trek on the back of an elephant, and a relaxing Balinese massage. Another wildly popular programme at Bali Zoo is the Night at the Zoo experience. As the day cools and the sun begins to set, you meet at the elephant enclosure where you get to hand-feed the majestic mammals. Then it’s off to the restaurant for a petting and photo session with tame pythons, bear cats and a freshwater crocodile, followed by a stroll around the zoo to see how the animals behave once the sun goes down. Your evening ends with a fire show and a gourmet dinner just metres from the zoo’s resident pride of lions. Even if you don’t have an entire day to spare, Bali Zoo is worth a stopover on a trip from the south to the north or vice versa for its
Wana Restaurant alone. The rustic interior and furniture fashioned from reclaimed and salvaged wood makes you feel as though you’re in an exotic jungle lodge, and the restaurant is perched next to the lion enclosure, so you can enjoy cocktails, tapas, and even traditional high tea while watching the lions preen and play. No zoo admission ticket is required to sip and snack at Wana Restaurant. Telp: 0361 294357
www.bali-zoo.com
Bali Safari & Marine Park PART zoo, part aquarium, part educational centre and part amusement park, Bali Safari & Marine Park adds up to a whole lot
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of fun for the entire family. You could spend days here discovering exotic species in various habitats, taking elephant-back safaris, watching spectacular cultural performances, cavorting on the rides, cooling off in the water park, and dining on traditional Balinese cuisine and gourmet fare from around the globe. Just be sure to set aside at least one full day to explore this unique multi-faceted destination. The animals are the key attractions at Bali Safari & Marine Park, and the best way to see the biggest range of exotic creatures is on the Safari Journey. Board your air-conditioned safari tram and let your personal guide take you through the habitats of Indonesia, Africa and India where you will encounter hippos, zebras, lions and tigers just metres from your window. Snap as many photos as you like, and keep your eyes peeled for Nelson, the park’s enormous white rhinoceros. If the safari has you raring to go to see more animal action, swing by Ranthambore, a recreation of a famous ancient fort in India that acts as a tiger reserve. Here you can see white tigers in their element and a range of unique reptiles. Kampung Gajah is the elephant sanctuary for retired forestry and working elephants, and the Komodo enclosure is home to Indonesia’s rare Komodo dragons. Other exhibits feature orang-utans, leopards, and endangered Bali starlings. Once you’ve got your fill of the wildlife, it’s time for some more action-packed excitement in the Fun Zone and Water Park. Visitors of all ages will find something to amuse in the Fun Zone with its climbing cars, merry-go-round, go-go bouncer and the exhilarating spinning coaster. Beat the heat of the day on the flume ride as you fly 10 metres down a wet and wild chute, or splash around in the adult or kid’s pools while looking out over the ocean. Other attractions at Bali Safari & Marine Park include the aquarium where you can watch the staff feed feisty piranhas and white tip sharks, and the African-themed Tsavo Lion Restaurant, where you can dine next to glass panels that look directly into the lion’s den. Then there is the Bali Theatre which features nightly performances of the Bali Agung show – a dazzling spectacle of vibrant costumes, dancers, musicians, puppets and live animals that tell the story of how Bali came to be what it is today. And of course if you need more than one day to see it all, you can always bunk down in a beautiful thatched dwelling next to the African savannah habitat at the Mara River Safari Lodge and wake up to the call of the animals nearby beckoning you to start another wild and wonderful day. Telp: 0361 751 300 www.balisafarimarinepark.com
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What's new pussycat? Bali Safari and Marine Park.
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Kuta Beach Heritage Hotel.
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In the 1930s, a wanderlustful couple named Bob and Louise Koke happened upon an idyllic stretch of beach and were so taken by it that they decided to set down roots and build a small guesthouse next to the sea. That beach was Kuta Beach, and the Kuta Beach Hotel was the very first resort to open its doors on this shimmering strip of sand. Since then, the strip has become the epicentre of Kuta’s vibrant hotel, dining and nightlife scenes, and a favourite hotspot for tourists from all corners of the globe. If only Bob and Louise could see what their small guesthouse has become. The Kuta Beach Heritage Hotel has taken the adventurous spirit of Bob and Louise’s venture and infused it with the luxury and sophistication of a modern boutique hotel on the very same site as the original Kuta Beach Hotel. Managed by French hotel group, Accor, this gem of a resort has it all . . . spacious light-filled rooms, a breezy rooftop restaurant, serene spa, swimming pool overlooking the beach and the Indian Ocean, and the soon-to-be opened rooftop bar with views that extend for miles down Bali’s south-western coast. Your experience starts in the lobby, where soaring glass windows and polished wooden floors set the tone, and smiling staff await to relieve you of your luggage and settle you into your suite. This level also houses the Bob & Louise Lounge Bar, a stylish nautical themed space with supple leather armchairs, wood-panelled walls, and a collection of artworks drawing inspiration from surfing, yachting, fishing and seafaring. Perfect for meetings or sampling fine wines and spirits, the lounge bar offers seating in air-conditioned comfort or outdoors on the sunny patio. Depending on your needs, The Kuta Beach Heritage Hotel offers five different types of room and suite options. Each room has been elegantly designed with a combination of retro and marine nuances, such as the antique steamer trunks that open up to fully stocked mini-bars, and the multi-hued carpets that contrast nicely against the smooth wooden floors. From the air-conditioned comfort of the cushy Classic Heritage to the
soothing sound of trickling water from the rain pool on the patio of the Deluxe Heritage, and the extra generous living room and balcony of the Deluxe Heritage Suite, every room offers a different ambiance for all sorts of tastes. Moreover, upscale extras like 42-inch LED TVs, free Wi-Fi and rain showers cover all comforts. To start your day on a high note, make your way to Waves All Day Dining Restaurant for an exquisite spread of fresh fruit and pastries, waffles smothered in fresh fruit and whipped cream, cold cuts and cheeses, dim sum, noodles, and eggs made to order. With the swimming pool just steps away, it’s hard to resist reclining on one of the cushioned loungers next to the water after your sumptuous feast. Although the beach is just seconds away, you could be forgiven for spending your days cooling off in the pool and sipping tropical cocktails and mocktails at the Surf Pool Bar. Come sunset, this is the ideal spot to gaze out at Kuta’s skyline and the sea and indulge in light bites like tapas, salads, sandwiches and wraps or a gluttonous BBQ spread. For active types who take advantage of Kuta’s world-class waves, fun attractions and plentiful shops, a relaxing spa session is just the thing to rejuvenate and refresh the mind, body and soul. The Aqua Spa offers a range of treatments for bliss-seekers of all ages. The Heritage Signature Massage gets deep into those muscles to drain away fatigue and regain vigour, while the Heritage Jacuzzi Hot Tub Bath soothes the body, flushes out toxins and de-stresses. Also on offer are cleansing facials that make use of divine Decléor products. Whether you’re travelling for business or pleasure, surfing or shopping, as a long-time Bali veteran or a newbie to the island, The Kuta Beach Heritage Hotel manages to impress. After just one stay, the chances are good that you’ll come to the same conclusion as Bob and Louise and decide that this is one seriously sweet spot. S.M. thekutabeachheritage.com
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Many of the Grand Deluxe rooms have bathtubs as well as showers. All pool-facing rooms have their own balconies.
Wandering down Jalan Legian you just might pass this place by without noticing it but the Akmani Legian – despite its inconspicuous street frontage is full of surprises. Billed as “a little secret in the Island of the Gods” the Akmani really isn’t little at all. It has 154 rooms – that start from a very reasonable rack rate of USD55 nett – located smack bang in the middle of Kuta’s shopping, eating and nightlife precinct. The hotel is designed in modern minimalist style with a mind to sustainability – a signature feature throughout is the use of 80-year-old recycled ulin (iron wood) timber. Starting on the top floor, or Vertical Point, this gorgeous old wood forms the timber decking for an area, within a lush garden, that provides a majestic panorama over Kuta beach and beyond. The bar there is created entirely from ulin and guests can relax in the Jacuzzi while chatting to the friendly bar staff and enjoying their favourite tipple – one side of the bar has a “swim-up” facility – a most desirable feature. Getting married on the deck at Vertical Point – overlooking the azure of the Indian Ocean – is popular and Akmani Legian offers generous wedding packages that can accommodate up to 250 people. The rooms come in four categories: Classic (twin-bed and kingsized); Grand Deluxe (twin-bed and king-sized); and on the ground level, Poolside Grand Deluxe and Pool Access Grand Deluxe that are both spacious and have their own outdoor areas, where guests can while away the day or come home to for some R&R after excursions into the melting pot that is Kuta. All rooms are equipped with the latest in entertainment technology and have generous bathing areas.
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Meeting rooms are available that can accommodate up to 80 people – while other indoor and rooftop settings can be arranged for special events. Additional features include a spa and wellness centre that is plushly appointed and is equipped to provide treatments for singles, or couples wishing to share their wellness experience. Kids’ Corner offers respite to weary parents who want a bit of downtime, not only but fun, games and educational activities to children aged four to 10 years. The Akmani Legian even has its own shopping arcade so you don’t have to engage in the hustle and bustle out on the streets. Epicurean desires are met in any one of four venues: poolside, where homemade ice creams, cakes and finger foods and a variety of coffees and teas can be enjoyed while taking in the views over the tropical gardens and pool; Bel Patio – the Akamani’s signature restaurant – which specialises in pizzas, pastas and grills (located on the 3rd floor, Bel Patio overlooks Jalan Legian so diners can watch the passing parade in air conditioned comfort); a buffet or a la carte breakfast is served on the Terrace Café which is a spacious and convivial space where hotel guests can to get to know one another; and, of course, in-room dining is available 24 hours. The Akmani Legian is a semi-hidden oasis of calm and cool and just steps away from some of Kuta’s most famous nightclubs for those who feel the need to let off some steam on steamy Bali nights. It is well worth checking out if you want to be close to the action yet also desire a little seclusion when the festivities are over. A.H. www.akmanilegian.com
Vertical Point : Akmani Legian.
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Buss Surfer.
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Recently celebrating its second anniversary with a big beach bash the Bliss Surfer Hotel on Jalan Sriwijaya, Kuta, is a friendly, fun place to spend your getaway. The theme is laid-back, sun and surf, and Bliss Surfer is the only place in town that pulls it off with a blending of style and quirky surf-based design and décor. Surfboards abound from the lobby (which also contains a Rip Curl surf shop) and right through the property – which has its own “beach”, right in the heart of Kuta. This is the communal area – as all beaches should be – where guests (and passers-by) can lounge around and relax with a coldie or two, or a cocktail perhaps, and swap stories about their Bali experience. The ambience here is comfort and fun with an eclectic mix of places to rest those weary bones after a day’s adventuring on “the strip”. Marketing manager, Yulita, says: “Our core values are cheerful, care-free and colourful. “Cheerful means that our service is given from the heart and with pleasure; vibrant colour is evident from the moment you walk in and is a theme that runs throughout the hotel, inside and out; and care-free means that our guests are safe and looked after so all they need to focus on is having a great time without worrying about anything.” A short stroll down the “beach” is a lagoon-themed swimming pool surrounded by wooden decking and palm trees. Poolside are six Deluxe Lagoon King Rooms which have their own outdoor areas with cushioned loungers and provide direct access to the pool. In the 111-room hotel there are 44 Deluxe Twin Rooms where friends can share their tropical vacation in style; 38 Deluxe King Rooms with king-sized beds; 14 Junior Suites are the property’s largest rooms at 35sqm; and nine Family Suites that are roomy enough for the kids to play in, even with the king-sized bed and two bunk beds that can accommodate children aged three to 12. Three of the Family Suites provide direct access to the swimming pool. All rooms above ground level at Bliss Surfer have their own
private balconies where guests can hang out and take in the view of the “beach” and lagoon below. All of Bliss Surfer’s rooms are decorated with the surfing lifestyle in mind and have ample en-suite bathing areas. Of course there is the de rigueur satellite TV and entertainment system and Wi-Fi. But maybe at Bliss Surfer it’s a good idea to disconnect for a while. After a day of shopping and finding your favourite hotspot in the entertainment mecca that is Kuta and Tuban, an hour or two in the Wave Senses Spa and Reflexology centre is just the ticket to get you chilled down . . . and warmed up for your next adventure. Bliss out as expert hands knead away your knots and tensions in Wave Senses’ signature body rituals. The pop-art paradise – right next to the “beach” – Bombora Resto and Bar is a dazzling open-air eatery and drinkery with a cacophony of colour surrounding rustic dining settings. The menu includes a wide range of Indonesian and international cuisines – from multi-tiered sandwiches to the freshest local seafood and exotic local bites. The bar is a chilled-out zone for R&R, conversation and conviviality. Bliss Surfer Hotel can cater for meetings and conventions with its 72sqm meeting room – that can be configured to seat 50 people in theatre style, 30 people in classroom style, and 24 people in U-shape style. The feel of the room is modern contemporary with comfortable and colourful seating and enough electronic whizbangery to get your message across to those who need to hear it. Uncommon in the Kuta area, there is also ample parking for convention centre users. Bliss Surfer will also assist in organising surf lessons and surf tours through its affiliation with Rip Curl. So if a super cool, super casual, super chilled holiday in a safe environment is what you’re looking for on Bali surfs up in the heart of Kuta. Aloha. www.blisssurferhotel-bali.com
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SILKY scotches, smooth wood and the intoxicating aroma of world-class cigars . . . in Kuta? Granted, the area may not be renowned for its abundance of refined lounges where you can don a dapper air and delve into the top-shelf stuff, but Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel is raising the level of sophistication on the South Kuta Beach strip with the classy and chic Havana Wine and Cigar Lounge. Tucked away in a quiet corner on the lobby level, Havana Lounge is a sanctuary of style in an already sleek setting. Floor to ceiling windows allow natural light to pour in while keeping cool air inside, and black lattice woodwork provides the backdrop for dark wooden tables, cushioned sofas and roomy armchairs. Elegant touches include a curved bar next to the window overlooking the ocean and pool, a flat-screen TV, and a call button to alert servers to your every need. Then, of course, there is the temperature controlled walk-in wine cellar flanked by a sizeable humidor, both of which set the mood for many fine things to come. Like any good wine bar worth its Riedels, Havana Lounge offers a wine list that reads like a tour of the viticulture capitals of the world. Whether you’re craving a South African viognier, a Chilean shiraz or a bit of Moet & Chandon bubbly, you’ll find a bottle to suit your style on the list or the shelves of the wine cellar. House pours come from Bali’s own Hatten vineyards and the Plaga collection. Serious Cuban connoisseurs will find only the best of the best in the humidor, with names like the Montecristo No 4, Cohiba Siglo 6 and Romeo
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Y Julieta Churchills Tubos standing out among the rest. Handcrafted domestic rolls made with premium Java tobacco are also on offer, including a few that make use of unique Brazilian and Nicaraguan blends. For the uninitiated, Havana Lounge also has a comprehensive cigar menu with tasting notes and a cigar size and colour chart. While Havana Lounge makes for the perfect after-dinner tippling and smoking locale, the space is actually open all day and acts as a truly multipurpose room. The cool interior and relaxed ambiance makes this the ideal spot to conduct meetings, have a quiet drink solo or with friends, or grab a bite to eat. Havana Lounge shares the same menu as the Sunset Lounge, which is located directly across from the wine and cigar lounge. Light bites include tapas and shared plates like the Nachos Supreme with crisp tortilla chips smothered in beef chilli con carne, cheddar, guacamole and sour cream, or the Mini Spaghetti bites with succulent prawns and mushrooms. Not to be missed are the homemade cakes and pastries baked fresh daily by the resort’s own pastry chef. Guests of Havana Lounge can also order gourmet meals from any of the resort’s on-site restaurants, which means you have your choice of Japanese tempura, sushi and sashimi, Italian pastas and pizzas, Indonesian fried rice, and fresh seafood. And for those in need of sunset canapés and cocktails, catering for small or medium groups, special menus, liquor requests or cigars for a private event, it’s all part and parcel of the superior service on offer at Havana Lounge. www.discoverykartikaplaza.com
Balinese Buffet Dinner Join us for a dining experience where you can savor opulence and an authentic flavor of Balinese culture and cuisine. Be entertain with our cultural performances. Available every Saturday.
Rp. 275 000++ per person Free of charge for children under 12 years old, one child per one paying adult. For further information and reservations please contact T.+62.361.751067 on ext. 88002.
Managed by Discovery Hotels & Resorts Jalan Kartika Plaza, South Kuta Beach 80361 P.O. Box 1012, Bali, Indonesia T. +62-361 751067 F. +62-361 754585 reservation@discoverykartikaplaza.com www.discoverykartikaplaza.com
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Mango Vision is Bali’s five-star hotel TV channel broadcast to thousands of rooms in the island’s best hotels. With award-winning documentary, travel, sport, fashion and food content, Mango makes sense for viewers and advertisers alike. Take advantage of Bali’s biggest viewing market: advertise on Mango, and reach an audience entertained by the best local content on TV. info@mangovision.tv
www.mangovision.tv
cocktails to ferry to the thirsty. Dieters beware – this is also where you’ll find the dessert display case full of irresistible sweet treats. For a light meal, try one of Kitchenette’s made-to-order salads. The Creamy Cucumber and Tomato Salad with dill and shaved red onion is a refreshing antidote to the heat of the day, and the Rustic Caesar Salad is healthy and filling with crisp romaine lettuce, substantial slices of grilled chicken breast and a sharp sprinkling of Parmesan cheese. Shared plates are another way to keep things simple at Kitchenette, with offerings like the Crispy Chicken Tenders with creamy mushroom sauce, and Baja Fried Fish Tacos with avocado and homemade salsa. The Oxtail Fries sound like a bizarre mix, but once you’ve sampled the crispy base of chips flecked with tender nuggets of spicy oxtail and topped with smooth scrambled eggs, you’ll be a convert for life.
DINING at Kitchenette, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in a cosy café in Melbourne, Paris or even a good friend’s kitchen – a good friend who loves to cook and has a predilection for the sweet stuff. Wooden cupboards line the walls, green, black and white tiles cover the floor, and hand-printed blackboards proclaim the specials of the day and standout menu items. However, step outside to the wooden patio deck, and you are quickly reminded that you are just steps from the beach in the heart of all the Kuta action. Brought to us by the Ismaya Group, who have a slew of hip and happening restaurant concepts in Jakarta, Kitchenette is a homey cafe and bistro space serving up fresh home-cooked meals, savoury galettes, sweet crepes and tempting elixirs for tipplers and teetotallers. This is the second branch of the café (the first being in Jakarta), and it is already making waves for its whimsical decor, gratifying comfort food and convenient Beachwalk Bali location. To get to Kitchenette, head to the stretch of sea-facing restaurants fronting Bali’s newest and most iconic mall, Beachwalk, and you’ll find the sunny terrace on the end sporting a smattering of round tables under a white wooden awning. If you can, grab a seat on the striped daybeds at the edge of the patio. Inside, the atmosphere is merry and mellow with simple wooden tables and chairs, kitchen utensils hanging from the shelves and the walls, and a long counter where blackclad baristas whip up classic cappuccinos and servers pick up fresh-squeezed juices in mason jars and colourful
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Mains consist of burgers, pastas, casseroles and Asian creations. For those looking for a true taste of the west, the Southern Fried Chicken and Waffles with chilli butter and maple syrup gets the perfect balance of sweet, salty, crispy and soft, and the Steak-frites with mushroom caviar sauce and garlic butter will transport you straight to a European brasserie. Pair your meal with a glass of chilled wine, beer or cider, or indulge in a selection from their ‘Wicked’ cocktail list. Top points go to the Prom Queen’s Punch – an intoxicating (in all senses of the word) mix of red wine, brandy and lychee liqueur infused with chunks of fresh lemon and orange. Nostalgic noshing aside, Kitchenette’s real claim to fame is their gourmet galettes and crepes. Made with organic buckwheat flour, the galettes are filled with a mix of high-quality, natural veggies, meat and sauces, while the delicate crepes are smothered in fresh fruit, nuts and ice cream and drizzled with sweet syrups and chocolate. Whether as a snack, dessert or a meal unto themselves, these epicurean delights alone are reason enough to give Kitchenette a try.
Laid back by the sea.
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queen's table
Ubiquitous around the world as they may be, Indian restaurants are few and far between on the island of Bali. Sure, you can find the odd house of curry here and there, but if you want the really good stuff, there’s only one place to go – Queen’s of India. Queen’s of India and Queen’s Tandoor (under the same umbrella) are actually a chain of restaurants with venues in Kuta, Seminyak, Nusa Dua, Ubud and even further afield in Jakarta, Singapore, the Philippines and Saudi Arabia, which is perhaps a testament to the authenticity of the flavours and consistent quality of both the food and service. The master behind the menu is owner, Puneet Malhotra, who stays true to his roots with traditional Punjabi classics, as well as dishes from around the Indian subcontinent and modern reinterpretations that fuse Indian spices with fresh local ingredients. Although each Queen’s location is unique unto itself, the common threads that run through each of the restaurants are elegance, open space, and a welcoming vibe. We had the pleasure of visiting the Legian location right in the heart of Seminyak, and we weren’t surprised to find the al fresco terrace full of cheerful diners digging into colourful and fragrant plates of chicken tikka, masala curry and dhal. If the night is clear (which it so often is in south Bali), it’s hard to pass up a seat on the open-air patio under the stars. Here you have your choice of roomy wicker and glass tables with cushioned chairs surrounded by manicured greenery. However, if air conditioned comfort is more your style, the second floor is cool and cavernous with soaring ceilings, rich wooden floors and tables, and romantic candlelit tables next to huge windows that look out over the treetops, patio and street. While we perused the menu, crisp complimentary papadums arrived with an array of condiments including mango chutney, spiced mint
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sauce and pickled onions, and the servers stood by to help us navigate the extensive list of choices. They explained the subtle nuances of flavour in each of the various curries; which dishes were mild and which would blow your head off; and which vegetarian dishes were hearty enough to stand on their own. Our mango lassis arrived first, sweating condensation against the tall glasses and rich and creamy to the taste. Next up was the garlic naan – massive, fluffy flatbreads that spilled over the sides of the wicker basket. Lightly brushed with butter and sprinkled with herbs and garlic, they looked and smelled divine. On recommendation of the servers we ordered the Rogan Josh, and from first glance we knew we were in for something special. Robust chunks of braised lamb sat in a sea of rich sauce, which emitted aromas of garlic, ginger, cloves, cardamom and cinnamon. Each bite was tender and juicy, and the sauce was just spicy enough so that a touch of heat came through without detracting from the other flavours. The Butter Chicken was another winner with thin slices of chicken swimming in a savoury sauce that managed to perfectly balance the tomato, butter, cumin, garlic, ginger and chilli. To cool the palate we also ordered some raita, and managed to mop up every last drop of the refreshing yoghurt, coriander and mint dip with the last of the garlic naan. We later found out that the culinary team at Queen’s of India includes bona fide Indian chefs, which probably explains why the food tastes unarguably authentic. It may be a tad pricier than your average Indonesian warung, but Queen’s is worth every rupiah if you’re craving genuine Indian food made with only the highest quality ingredients and attention to detail. S.M. bali.queenstandoor.com
HOTELS & VILLAS Bali Dynasty Resort Tel: (62-361) 752403 www.balidynasty.com Page 13 Kuban Map H.10 Discovery Kartika Plaza Hotel Tel: (62-361) 751067 www.discoverykartikaplaza.com Page 79 Kuban Map H.10 Komune Tel: (62-361) 3018888 www.komuneresorts.com Page 27 Satriya Cottages Tel: (62-361) 758331 www.satriyacottages.com Page 22 Kuban Map H.7 The Kuta Beach Heritage Tel. (62 -361) 300 7080 www.thekutabeachheritage.com Page 3 Kuban Map H.7 The Stones Hotel Tel: (62-361) 3005888 www.stoneshotelbalicom Page 7 Kuban Map H.5 The 101 Legian Bali Tel: (62-361) 3001101 www.the101hotels.com Page 19 Kuban Map I.5 Villa Palma Tel: (62-361) 81 236 301330 +62 81 734 7389 www.villapalmacanggu.com Page 41 MISCELANEOUS BARC Tel: (62-361) 971208 www.barc4balidogs.org Page Kuban Directory
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Icomm Tel: (62-361) 282010 www.icommbali.com Page 17 Kuban K-pod Tel: (62-361) 766539 www.kubanbali.com Page 15 Mango nigel@icommbali.com www.mangovision.tv Page 79
www.bali-zoo.com Page 15
www.deuscustoms.com Page 2-3
Beachwalk Tel: (62-361) 8464888 www.beachwalkbali.com Page 9 Kuban Map H.6
Havaianas Tel: (62) 8113861406 www.universo.co.id Page Inside Back Cover Kuban Map J.1
Ripcurl School of Surf Tel: (62-361) 287749 www.ripcurlschoolofsurf.com Page 22 Kuban Map G.3, P.8
The Safe Childhoods Foundation www.safechildhoods.org Page 17
RESTAURANTS El Kabron Tel: (62-361) 7803416 www.elkabron.com Page 83
Waka Sailing Catamaran Tel: (62-361) 484085 www.wakahotelsandresorts.com Page 41 Kuban Map M.2
Queen’s Restaurant Tel: (62-361) 732770, 765988 www.bali.queenstandoor.com Page 83 Kuban Map H.10
HEALTH, SPA & SALONS Nano Philosophy Indonesia Tel: (62-361) 739372 www.nanophilosophy.com Page 11 Kuban Map H.1
Sky Garden www.61legian.com www.skygardenbali.com Page 21 Kuban Map J.7
Shinto Spa Tel: (62-361) 721 480, 8989777 www.baliadventuretours.com Page 85 RECREATION Air Bali Helicopter Tel: (62-361) 767466 E: sales@airbali.com Page 35 Bali Adventure Tours Tel: (62-361) 721 480, 8989777 www.baliadventuretours.com Page 85 Bali Zoo Tel: (62-361) 294357
Wana Restaurant Tel: (62-361) 294357 www.wanarestaurant.com Page 17 Yanies Restaurant Tel: (62-361) 721 480, 8989777 www.baliadventuretours.com Page 85 SHOPS Alang Alang Tel: (62-361) 8464888 www.beachwalkbali.com Page 9 Kuban Map H.6 Deus Ex Machina Tel: (62-361) 3683395
Indowines/Plaga www.plagawine.com Page Back Cover Kuban Map M.4 Oakley Indonesia www.oakley.com Page 1 Kuban Map H.10 Seafolly Tel: (62-361) 846960, 8465612, 8469284, 753472, 733036 www.universo.co.id Page Gatefold Kuban Map J.1 BARS Gracie Kelly’s Tel: (62-361) 752403 www.balidynasty.com/gk Page 13 Kuban Map H.10 Komune Tel: (62-361) 3018888 www.komuneresorts.com Page 27 Pyramid Tel: (62-361) 8500300 www.pyramidclubbali.com Page 5 Kuban Map K.4 Sky Garden www.61legian.com www.skygardenbali.com Page 21 Kuban Map J.7
Andrew Hall and Neal Adams find an old friend in the most unlikely of places . . . surfing to be had anywhere in the world. The point-break at “Margarets” was recently the site of a leg of the world pro surfing championship with the likes of Kelly Slater and Mick Fanning competing.
Dateline Perth, Western Australia: Flying into W.A. from Bali on a clear summer’s morning I am struck, once again, by the vastness and barrenness of the continent on which I was born. And somewhere beneath our flight path there is another, older, continent buried within the visible landmass of the northwest – a fact recently discovered after the deployment of some impressive scientific whizbangery.
It is a truly beautiful part of the planet and is also one of Australia’s most famous wine producing areas. For Neal (who is a painter), though, it was the quality of the light and the way it interplayed with the surrounding karri forests that took his breath away.
Two continents for the price of one . . . sweet mate. A bit more air time and a lot more wide, brown land girt (as the Australian national anthem would have it) by a dazzling turquoise Indian Ocean and we begin our decent into Perth – a notoriously turbulent experience which on this day saw a few worried frowns shared throughout the cabin. No worries . . . and after clearing the requisite official niceties I step out onto the terra firma that is home to my mother (who was not at the airport to pick me up, in case you’re reading this Pam) and the rest of my family. Been a long time. It was characteristically hot and dry; the sky was impossibly big and azure, cloudless. Taxi! Neal would arrive tomorrow so some catch-up time with the madré. He and I had faced various difficult situations on Bali in recent times and had come to the existential conclusion: “it could have worked out so much better if I wasn’t me”. Time for a holiday. His landing was even more violent than mine and he was a bit wobbly when I picked him up. Back to Pam’s for a nice, strong cuppa . . . and a glass or two of (7.30am) The Glenlivet on ice, and our holiday was up and running. It was Neal’s first time in the Land of Oz and
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I decided to be a wizard tour guide. First stop would be my former home of Fremantle – a cosmopolitan seaside city chokka with cafés, restaurants, boutique breweries and thrumming with life; where al fresco is de rigueur. We found a nice shop that specialises in the iconic Australian semi-precious stone, the opal. We bought some pretty pieces of jewellery for our lady friends on Bali. I still have the piece I bought (see existential conclusion above). We were on a mission to find Little Creatures – a micro-brewery and eatery located on Fishing Boat Harbour. Beautiful. Great beers, great wine, great views and excellent mussels cooked in white wine and garlic. Seafood in Australia is some of the best in the world. Around 300km south of Perth through the rolling downs of cattle country (which in spring abound with a cacophony of wildflower colour) is the town of Margaret River. This is forest country with a rugged coastline and some of the best
From M.R. it was time to head north again – to the coastal city of Bunbury, which is where my sister and her family live. Bunbury is a city built around a beautiful estuary that abounds with fish and delicious crabs. It is also home to a pod of wild dolphins that, most days, visit the nearby Koombana Beach where they interact with beachgoers. During the evening barbeque at Sal’s place we heard of a peculiar place called Gnomesville about 40km out of Bunbury . . . Neal and I had to check it out. Off we went the next day and, low and behold, just out of the town of Dardanup we come across a place – in the middle of basically nowhere – where there are literally thousands of garden gnomes living in the bush. People make pilgrimages from all over the world to leave a gnome in Gnomesville. It’s weird and crazy and fun. As we wandered through acres and acres of bush land and gnomes, Neal exclaims: “Mate, look it’s Brian, I was just walking past and he spoke to me.” And sure enough, there was our gnomish dear departed friend, Brian Aldinger – formerly the crapulous publican of Naughty Nuri’s fame in Ubud. Neal and I fell about laughing . . . happy to have found our mate again, in his element, and once again amongst thousands of friends. Good to see you BUDDY!
AVAILABLE AT
JAKARTA
BALI Petitenget Oberoi Seminyak
Beachwalk Mall Kuta Square Legian
Lotte Shopping Avenue Mall Taman Anggrek Plaza Senayan
For more information call +62 811 386 1406 universo.co.id
HAVAIANAS_ID HAVAIANASIndonesia
universo.co.id S T O R E L O C AT I O N S
BALI PETITENGET Jl. Petitenget No. 100X , Kerobokan Ph. +62 (361) 846 960 OBEROI 1 Jl Laksmana No. 5 - Oberoi, Seminyak Ph. +62 (361) 733 036 OBEROI 2 Jl. Laksmana No.72b - Oberoi, Seminyak Ph. +62 (361) 84 69 28 4 BEACHWALK MALL Level 2 #A-8z - Jalan Pantai Kuta Ph. +62 (361) 84 65 61 2 KUTA SQUARE Jl. Bakung Sari - Kuta Square Blok C23 Ph. +62 (361) 75 34 72 LEGIAN Jl. Legian 133D Ph. +62 (361) 876 5785
J A K A R TA LOTTE SHOPPING AVENUE Unit #1F-21, 1st Floor Ph. +62 (21) 29889113 MALL TAMAN ANGGREK GL-E05, Ground Floor Ph. +62 (21) 56969410 PLAZA SENAYAN Unit #317C, 3rd Floor Ph. +62 (21) 579 05865
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