Here and there

MOSCOW 1

T H I N K G L O B A L LY

MOSCOW

L I V E L O C A L LY MOSCOW

T H I N K G L O B A L LY

MOSCOW

MOSCOW

Your guide to

Moscow

MOSCOW

local life

MHow O to S choose C O Wyour residential area Best appt houses Top city panoramas

Best resataurants Nicest coffee places Upcoming events Weekend ideas

OCT 2013

MOSCOW L I V E L O C A L LY

MOSCOW

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EDITOR

MOSCOW

Editorial department Research & PR Irina Kuzmina pr-moscow@hereandthere.com

MOSCOW

Layout & Design Irina Kuzmina design.russia@hereandthere.com

MOSCOW

MOSCOW

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EDITOR

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MOSCOW

01 C I T Y

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INDEX

How and where to rent a bike Moscow vs New York rates comparison Top city panoramas, wh ere to go to see the most amazing city vie ws

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03 H O M E Learn what are the most prestigious areas in Moscow, how not to get confused while choosing a place to live new appartment houses to check out

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FOOD

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K L FO

the taurants of s re h s o p d r an f them Most popula visited all o e v a h u o y if nd nk coffee a town, check ri d to s e c zy pla New and co croissants

nd ustoms a c n ia s s cal out Ru t from lo c e p x Learn ab e , what to traditions how to adapt ? n, you know id d , n populatio fa and sara Balalaika

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IN

INDEX

INDEX

MOSCOW

S T N E EV

02

CLASS

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MOSCOW

MOSCOW ext is in town n o h w t u o k c Che oscow ibitions in M h x e e e s t s aWnce CO Mu theatrMeO,S d s e c n a m o when Top perf : where and h s li g n E in Cinema

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How to choose a perfect school for your child, comparison of top two expat schools Best dance studios for those who want to learn, what students think of them

TRAVEL

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Destination of th e issue −Kolom na, what to see, how to get and what to expe ct there moscow railway stations - make su re not to confuse them an d be on time

DEX SHOP

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Soviet lege nd Raketa Watches, h are made a ow they nd where y ou can buy Item of the th em now season − R ubber boots their history , learn and buy so me in town

INDEX

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CI T Y

CI T Y

Moscow is one of the latest cities to set up its own bike programme, allowing both tourists and Muscovites a new way to travel around.

The pay-as you go stations for these bikes are mostly on the Boulevard Ring, and the notable red bikes, courtesy of Bank of Moscow, can now be seen all over the city. Moscow in Your Pocket tried out the system and has happed out for you a possible route from Chistye Prudy to Tsvetnoy Bulvar which takes you through some of Moscow’s leafiest and most loved boulevards

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How

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to

rent a bike?

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one of the first theatres which enjoyed the new freedoms of the Thaw era.

Weave in and out of the strollers until you reach the Chistye Prudy metro station and the statue of Russian playwright Griboedov, author of the play «Woe from Wit». Crossing the road to reach Rozhdestvensky Bulvar, you will find memorial to Evdokiya Dmitrievna, said to have brought the icon to Moscow. Riding downhill you reach Trubnaya Square.

On the right a column for policemen who die in the line of duty, and is topped by a statue of St George. The unicycling clown statues in the middle of the Tsvetnoy Bulvar’ park are a creation of Zurab Tsereteli, and celebrate the circus on your right which has been here since the late 1980s. You can leave your bikes at the Tsvetnoy Bulvar’ metro station.

Moscow is one of the latest cities to set up its own bike programme, allowing both tourists and Muscovites a new way to travel around. The payas you go stations for these bikes are mostly on the Boulevard Ring, and the notable red bikes, courtesy of Bank of Moscow, can now be seen all over the city. Moscow in Your Pocket tried out the system and has happed out for you a possible route from Chistye Prudy to Tsvetnoy Bulvar’, which takes you through some of Moscow’s leafiest and most loved boulevards.

A nice place to start is the far end of Chistye Prudy (‘Clean Ponds’). Say hello to the African ducks with the orange beaks and admire the memorial to the Kazakh poet Abay Kunanbaev, which in recent years has been the setting for opposition meetings. Pedal past the ‘Sovremennik’ theatre on the right, set up by young actors in 1956 and

how do es it w ork?

Register online at www.ve vary dep ending o lobike.ru n the ‘tar using a c the bike, if f plan’ yo r 30 minu u c hoose, p edit card. The pr tes is fre will rece ices a y for the ho e/ after 30 ive a sm u r s y s o m w u and a P ins costs ith the n use IN numb umber o 30 Rbl. T e f r. y h o Y e u ou enter stand alo r ‘bikec these in ard’ (vel n you ng with the num to the te okarta) which th ber of th rminal n e bike is e e a b r the bik released ike and return th e have 60 from the e bike to lo s e c k c . a o A n n n y d d can mak s bike sta e you lia tion.Late away you go! You in ble to a 3 can return ,000-15, 000Rbl fi s, loss or damage s

ne.

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MOSCOW

MOSCOW

MOSCOW

MOSCOW

MOSCOW vs NEW YORK Cost of living comparison between Moscow (Russia) and New York City (United States) How much money will you need when you move to Moscow?

Food Housing Clothes Transportation Personal Care Entertainment TOTAL

41% 31% 71% 43% 31% 12% 31%

Cost of living in Moscow (Russia) is 31% cheaperthan in New York City (United States)

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TOP 5 Magnificient Panorama of Moscow: Ivan the Great Bell Tower @ Kremlin The Ivan the Great Bell Tower is the tallest of the towers in the Moscow Kremlin complex, with a total height of 81 meters..

There you will feel the true spirit of a Bell Tower constructed in 1508, but to get to the viewing point at 25 meters, you will have 137 steps as a challenge. Kremlin, m.

Biblioteka im. Lenina Open time: 10.15 AM, 11.30AM, 1.45PM, 3PM, 4PM.

Vorobiovy gory Open in the middle of 20th century, this place is one of the most famous. Open time: 24/7, free. Leninskiy Prospekt area, m. Vorobiovy Gory, Kosygina str.

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MOSCOW

MOSCOW

MOSCOW

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Where to climb to see it?

Cathedral of Christ the Savior Here you will find 4 view places at 40 meters from the ground.Entrance fee: from 350 RUR ArbatKropotkinskaya Area 15, Volkhonka str.

Moscow big wheel - The biggest one is near VDNKH Park, 73 meters high. Entrance fee: 350 RUR. 119, Prospekt Mira, m. VDNKH

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Ostankino tower Open in 2008, a special elevator will bring you up to 337 m. in 7 seconds. The view is fantastic! Open time: 10AM-9PM Entrence fee: 850 RUR (450 RUR Kids) m.

VDNKH, 15, Ak. Koroleva str.

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EVENTS

EVENTS sdfhgvawe jlhrg thwertwerctwktc h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva we jlhrgthwefkth dfktdktuddktd kt rtwerctwktc h,kjjjjvtk sdfhgvawe jlhrg For the fifth time, the Moscow sdfhgvawe jlhrg sdfhgvawe jlhrg sdfhgvawe jlhrg Biennale of Contemporary Art thwertwerctwktc thwertwerctwktc thwertwerctwktc thwertwerctwktc brings artists from around the h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva world to the capital. Curator h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva we we jlhrgthwefkth jlhrgthwefkth sdfhgvawe jlhrg we jlhrgthwefkth Catherine de Zeger was we jlhrgthwefkth dfktdktuddktd kt dfktdktuddktd kt thwertwerctwktc dfktdktuddktd kt selected to head the project. dfktdktuddktd kt rtwerctwktc rtwerctwktc h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva For the theme, she selected rtwerctwktc rtwerctwktc h,kjjjjvtk h,kjjjjvtk “More Light,” which seems we jlhrgthwefkth h,kjjjjvtk h,kjjjjvtk especially relevant now when dfktdktuddktd kt sdfhgvawe jlhrg sun is something all Muscovites rtwerctwktc thwertwerctwktc are beginning to miss. In line h,kjjjjvtk h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva with the exhibition’s jlhrg central sdfhgvawe sdfhgvawe jlhrg sdfhgvawe jlhrg sdfhgvawe jlhrg we jlhrgthwefkth idea, de Zeger selected artists thwertwerctwktc thwertwerctwktc thwertwerctwktc whose work deals with time thwertwerctwktc dfktdktuddktd kt h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva and howjlhrgthwefkth we spend it. Pieces h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva rtwerctwktc we we jlhrgthwefkth we jlhrgthwefkth by 72 artists explore the depths we jlhrgthwefkth h,kjjjjvtk dfktdktuddktd kt dfktdktuddktd kt ofdfktdktuddktd space, and how people give dfktdktuddktd kt kt rtwerctwktc rtwerctwktc and take time away rtwerctwktc rtwerctwktc h,kjjjjvtk h,kjjjjvtk h,kjjjjvtk h,kjjjjvtk sdfhgvawe jlhrg thwertwerctwktc h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva we jlhrgthwefkth dfktdktuddktd kt rtwerctwktc h,kjjjjvtk

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EVENTS

TOP

An exhibition of works by artist Yuri Albert opens at the Moscow Museum of Modern Art on Oct. 17.

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ns 16 To se, t a s Ca ive e arr k.a. Cold nth v a C d a. ith sy d Col y Eisold, w e s e a v b a L.A.- . 3. Wesle ng darkw v i o x i on N for m n w o is kn unds. o pop s rns to u t e r s le shamb vClub. y b a B ov. 9, how at Gla N n •O ras ow fo c s o M

The annual theater festival Season of Stanislavsky opens this year on Oct. 26. The more alternative Net Festival runs from Nov. 17.

linary u c h s ti te he Bri apital. Tas t , e m g ti ec e first rives in th ts includin h t r o F t ar an Taste s at restaur hite Rabbi l a v i t n W fes ow ru , Uilliam’s, 22 to 24. c s o of M e, Nobu Nov. m o e r f L i . p Mr ontem B d n a

On Oc t. to the 10, MTV Ru s a under ir, this time sia returns th a Churik e leadersh s a franchi se ip of Y ova. ana

On Oct. 23, French Baro ensemble L que musica es Arts Flori l s s a nts come to Tchaikovsky th e Concert Hall orchestra w . The chamb as founded e r by conducto Christie in 1 r William 979 and is c urrently bas ed at the Theatre de Caen.

Head to the Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts’ Private Collections from Oct. 30 to see the acclaimed exhibit “Man Ray Portraits.”

The show, which is the first major museum retrospective of the highly influential artist’s photographer, earned high praise while up at London’s National Portrait Gallery this past spring.

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MOSCOW

or the fifth time, the Moscow Biennale of Contemporary Art brings artists from around the world to the capital. Curator Catherine de Zeger was M O S selected COW to head the project. For the theme, she selected “More Light,” which seems especially relevant now when sun OSC OW is something all Muscovites are beginningM to miss.

In line with the exhibition’s central idea, de Zeger selected artists whose work deals with time and how we spend OSCOW it. Pieces by 72 artists explore the depths ofM space, and how people give and take time away from one another.

The show encompasses the passing of each minute and the fading of light in all its forms. Works from 40 countries are gathered at the exhibit, which means that viewers are able to explore different cultures view the relationship between light and time. Manezh, to Oct. 20.

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he Hollywood Reporter brings 10 rare portraits of stars like Tom Cruise, Sylvester Stallone, Jack Nicholson from the late 70s and early 80s to the capital as part of the show “Golden Hollywood Collection.”

KuznetskyMost Pedestrian Zone, to Oct. 26.

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or the first time, Vivian Maier’s photos arrive in Russia. Vivian Maier is arguably one of the most important yet underappreciated photographers of the 20th century, as she began as an amateur street photographer and popularized the art. Over the course of her long career she took more than 100,000 photographs of people and life, many against the backdrop of Chicago. Her work failed to receive the acclaim it deserved until after her death in 2009. Lumiere Brothers Center for Photography, to Oct. 27.

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ore than 90 works from the Pomeranz Collection are on display as part of the exhibition “Everywhere Other” at the JewishMuseum. The collection includes contemporary Eastern European works by artists like Marina Abramovic and Joseph Beuys. There are photographs, performance pieces and instillations. The show is on as part of the Fifth Biennale of Contemporary Art in Moscow. Jewish Museum and Center for Tolerance, to Nov. 4.

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he annual exhibition of works by Kandinsky Prize nominees is on at the Udarnik Theater. The jury has selected 37 pieces from the hundreds presented for display. The awards, which began in 2007, continue to further the development of young contemporary artists in Russia. Udarnik Theater, to Nov. 10.

U

topia and Reality? at the Multimedia Art Museum features work by El Lissitzky and Ilya and Emilia Kabakov. The show coincides with Ilya Kabakov’s 80th birthday, and celebrates all of the artists’ impact on the avant-garde movement in Russia. Many of Lissitzky’s pieces were borrowed from the Van Abbemuseum. The show also includes never before seen pieces by the Kabakovs. Multimedia ArtMuseum, toNov. 17.

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EVENTS THEATRE OPERA

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A new incarnation of Bob Fosse’s hit Broadway musical “Chicago” makes its debut in Russia. The musical spawned hits like “All that Jazz” and “Mr. Cellophane,” and was adapted into an Academy Awardwinning film in 2002. Talented actor Alexander Arsentiev fromthe Pushkin Theater plays the slimy lawyer Billy Flynn. Dvorets Molodyozh, Oct. 6, 8-13, 15-16, 8 p.m.

One of Sholem Aleichem’s most famous works, the novel “Marienbad,” has been adapted for the stage

by Yevgeny Kamenkovich.

Considered “the Jewish Mark Twain” by critics, Aleichem is responsible for stories like “Tevye the Dairyman,” which provided the basis formusical “Fiddler on the Roof.” Studio of Theater Arts, Oct. 8, 7 p.m.Cinema and theater director Yanosh Sas has created a completely unique version ofMikhail Bulgakov’s famed “Master and Margarita” for the stage.

The production involves film clips and live footage, as well as actors and an incredible set design. Chekhov MKhT, Oct. 8-9

The St. Petersburgbased Theater of Europe has adapted Dostoevsky’s “Demons” for the stage. Lev Dodin’s political play received high praise when it made its debut in the Northern Capital.

Et Cetera Theater, Oct. 13, 12 p.m.

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For the 200-year anniversary of the birth of RichardWagner, the Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-DanchenkoMusicalTheater premiered the composer’s opera “Tannhauser” on Sept. 27. The opera had not been performed in Russia for decades, but is nonetheless aworthy part ofWagner’s legacy. The German production returns to the stage this fortnight withMichael Putsch in the title role. sdfhgvawe Stanislavsky and Nemirovich- Danchenkojlhrg Musical Theater, Oct. 3, 6:30 p.m.

thwertwerctwktc h,kjjjjvtksdfhgva we jlhrgthwefkth dfktdktuddktd kt rtwerctwktc h,kjjjjvtk

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Giuseppe Verdi’s opera “La Traviata,” based on the play “La Dame aux Camelias,” is currently one of the most widely performed operas, although it flopped on its opening night in Venice in 1853. Novaya Opera, Oct. 5-6, 7 p.m.

Tchaikovsky’s tragic opera “Yevgeny Onegin,” in which the hero shuns his true love only to return later and find she is no longer free, will be performed this fortnight at the Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Musical Theater.

The story is based the eponymous Pushkin work, arguably the writer’smost famous abroad. Stanislavsky and NemirovichDanchenko Musical Theater, Oct. 6, 7 p.m.

MOSCOW

THEATRE OPERA

Modest Mussorgsky’s epic opera “Boris odunov” gives udiences at the BolshoiTheater a history lesson this week.

Unusually, Mussorgsky is also the author of the Russianlanguage libretto, which is based on Pushkin’s story about the controversialTsar. The opera is themost recordedRussian piece, aswell as one of the most renowned. On Oct. 5, Alexander Tsymbalyuk sings the title role.Mikahil Kazakov is Godunov onOct. 8. Bolshoi Theater, Oct. 5, 8, 7 p.m.

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Anton Yakovlev directs one of Chekhov’s lesser-performed works, “The Duel.” The production runs a long three hours, but the actors on stage are talented enough to carry the weight of Chekhov’s characters. Chekhov MKhT, Oct. 7, 7 p.m.

Although most Westerners associate the ballet with Christmas time, Russians love Tchaikovsky’s adaptation of the Ernst Theodor Wilhelm Hoffmann story “The Nutcracker and the Mouse King” all year long. Even in the sweltering summer heat, the ballet “The Nutcracker” never fails to please audiences of all ages. Novaya Opera, Oct. 4, 7 p.m.

DANCE

“Giselle,” choreographed by Jean Coralli and Jules Perrot, tells the story of a young woman who falls in love with a duke disguised as a peasant. Stanislavsky and NemirovichDanchenko Musical Theater, Oct. 4, 7 p.m.

Jules Perrot and Cesare Pugni’s ballet “Esmeralda” is back on at Stanislavsky and Nemirovich- Danchenko Musical Theater. Based on Victor Hugo’s “Notre Dame de Paris,” this enchanting ballet is under appreciated around the world.

Stanislavsky and Nemirovich- Danchenko Musical Theater, Oct. 7, 7 p.m.

Arthur Saint-Leon’s ballet “Coppelia” comes to life at the Novaya Opera. The play is based on two of ETA Hoffman’s short stories, and follows the tale of inventor Dr. Coppelius who creates a dancing doll so lifelike that the village swain falls in love with it. Novaya Opera, Oct. 8, 7 p.m. .

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EVENTS

MOSCOW

Pioneer Cinema

Jobs

Oct. 3, 6 — 9:05 a.m.

Oct. 4 — 10:55 a.m.

Oct. 5 — 3 p.m.

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Vechnoye Vozvrascheniye (Eternal Homecoming)

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Pyat Zvyozd on Novokuznetskaya

Oct. 3 — 3:15 p.m., 11:40 p.m.

Oct. 4 — 9:15 a.m., 1:20 p.m.

Oct. 5 — 3:25 p.m., 9:35 p.m.

Oct. 6 — 9:15 a.m., 7:35 p.m.

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Salinger

Oct. 3-9 — 11:20 a.m

Don Jon

Oct. 3-9 — 10:30 a.m ., 4:45 p.m., 11:10 p.m.

Oct. 10-16 — 10:30 a.m., 11:40 p.m.

Oct. 3 — 11:25 a.m., 12:05 a.m.

Oct. 4 — 3:25 p.m., 1:40 a.m.

Oct. 5 — 11:20 a.m., 1:50 a.m.

Oct. 6 — 11:25 a.m., 11:45 p.m.

Blue Jasmine

Oct. 3-9 — 2:45 p. m., 9:10 p.m.

Oct. 10-16—2:50 p. m., 9:45 p.m.

Gravity

Oct. 3 — 3:25 p.m., 7:40 p.m., 1:45 a.m.

Oct. 4 — 9:05 a.m., 7:25 p.m., 9:20 p.m.

Oct. 5 — 1:05 p.m., 5:20 p.m., 9:40 p.m.

Oct. 6 — 1:10 p.m., 7:45 p.m., 9:50 p.m.

Blue Jasmine

Oct. 3 — 9:20 a.m., 1:20 p.m., 7:20 p.m.

Oct. 4 — 3:30 p.m., 5:25 p.m., 9:45 p.m.

Oct. 6 — 1:20 p.m., 5:40 p.m., 9:40 p.m.

Jayne Mansfield’s Car

Oct. 3 — 1:10 p.m., 5:25 p.m.

Oct. 4 — 5:10 p.m.

Oct. 5 — 9:05 a.m., 11:35 p.m.

Oct. 6 — 3:05 p.m.

Rol (The Role)

Oct. 3 — 9:40 p.m.

Oct. 4 — 11:15 p.m.

Oct. 5 — 7:15 p.m.

Oct. 6 — 5:20 p.m.

This is the End

Oct. 3 — 11:15 a.m.

Oct. 6 — 1:30 a.m.

The Family

Oct. 4 — 1:15 p.m.

Oct. 6 — 1:40 a.m.

The Kings of Summer

Oct. 3 — 5:15 p.m., 1:40 a.m.

Oct. 4 — 11:20 a.m., 11:40 p.m.

Oct. 5 — 1:25 p.m., 1:35 a.m.

Adieu Paris (Goodbye Pa ris) Oc

t. 4 — 1:35 a.m.

Oct. 5 — 9:30 a.m.

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Gravity 3D

Jeune et Jolie (Young and Beautifu l)

Oct. 3-9 — 4:55 p. m.

Oct. 10-16 — 12:50 p.m., 11:50 p.m.

Don Jon

Oct. 3-9 — 3 p.m., 6:50 p.m., 10:50 p. m.

Oct. 10-16 — 11 a.m ., 7:25 p.m.

Lovelace

m.

Jayne Mansfield’s C ar

Oct. 3-9 — 3:05 p. m., 9:40 p.m.

Oct. 10-16 — 3:15 p.m.

Rol (The Role)

Despicable Me 2

7:20 p.m.

Oct. 3-9 — 1:20 p. m.

Oct. 10-16 — 11:10 a.m.

We’re the Millers

Oct. 3-9 — 5:20 p. m.

Oct. 10-16 — 2:55 p.m.

Runner Runner

Oct. 3-9 — 9:45 p. m.

Oct. 10-16—1:05 p. m

., 7:15 p.m.

The Kings of Summ er

Oct. 3-9 — 3:25 p. m.

Oct. 10-16 — 4:50 p.m.

The Best Offer

Oct. 3-9 — 5:15 p. m.

Oct. 10-16 — 10:50 a.m.

Stalingrad

Oct. 10-16—4:55 p.

m., 9:15 p.m.

EVENTS

Jobs

Oct. 3-9 — 5:15 p.

m.

The Family

Oct. 3-9 — 11 a.m .

Oct. 10-16 — 1:15 p.

Oct. 3-9 — 5:25 p. m.

Oct. 10-16 — 1 p.m .,

Rolan

Oct. 3-9 — 11 a.m

Blue Jasmine

.

Oct. 3-9 — 1:05 p. m., 7 p.m.

Oct. 10-16 — 3:20 p.m., 9:40 p.m.

Gravity 3D

Oct. 3-9 — 3:05 p. m., 9:05 p.m.

Oct. 10-16 — 5:15 p.m., 11:35 p.m.

Don Jon

Oct. 3-9 — 5 p.m., 9:35 p.m.

Oct. 10-16 — 1:05 p.m., 7:15 p.m.

Metallica: Through the Never 3D

Oct. 3-9 — 11 p.m .

Oct. 10-16 — 11:45

p.m.

Vsyo Vklucheno 2 (Everything Includ ed

2) Oct. 3-9 — 11:30 a.m ., 3:20 p.m., 7:40 p.m .

Oct. 10-16 — 11:15 a.m., 5:25 p.m.

Okolo Futbola (Near Football)

Oct. 3-9 — 1:25 p. m., 11:30 p.m.

Oct. 10-16 — 11 a.m .

Stalingrad 3D

Oct. 10-16 — 12:50

p.m., 7:05 p.m.

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The ratings of the most popular and most prestigious areas have not changed in years. Changes do occur, but they take place within accepted parameters as result of changes of the location of recently-built elite apartments, fl uctuations of rent levels, new supply coming onto the market and the eff ect of various trends. Despite instability in the economy, half of all demand is for apartments in the centre

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HOME Interesting Residential Buildings of Moscow Sparrow Hills

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Residential complex Sparrow Hills (Vorobjovy Gory) is located in the South West of Moscow. It consists of 7 towers of different hight. The complex has excellent entrances, security, underground car parking and great infrastructure - fitness centre, supermarket and shopping centre.

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Pomerantsev per 7 One of the early 20th century (1911) buildings in modernist style by one of the most popular architests of the time V. Dubrovsky. The facade of the building is decorated with a lot of interesting details - aztek-like masks and salamaders.

Prechistenka 28 Prechistenka 28 is on the most beautiful ealy twentieth century builidngs in Moscow. It was built in 1906 by the architect L. Kekushev, known for his works in the modernist style. The building has interesting shape due to the plot of the land it had to fit. The decor of the buidling is rich and ornate with many interesting details.

Tverskaya 6 bld 6 Tverskaya 6 bld 6 was construced in 1907 in Russian style. It actually was right on Tverskaya until 1937 when it was moved from its site. Amazingly it was moved overnight without residents leaving apartments by the special technology created for reconstruction of Tverskaya. Now it is completely enclosed inside a stalinist apartment block and Moscow Art Theatre buildings.

Kamelot Located at Komsomolsky prospect 32, Kamelot is one of the few modern residential buildings in Frunzenskaya area. It is right next to park Usadba Trubetskih, one of the best parks for children in Moscow. There is a fitness centre and supermarket on the ground floor, great entrance and underground parking.

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Traditional Prestigious areas of Moscow The ratings of the most popular and most prestigious areas have not changed in years. Changes do occur, but they take place within accepted parameters as result of changes of the location of recently-built elite apartments, fl uctuations of rent levels, new supply coming onto the market and the eff ect of various trends.

Despite instability in the economy, half of all demand is for apartments in the centre of Moscow. The next most prestigious areas are the East and South East each enjoying 15% of demand, then there is the north-west, which takes up 10% of demand. If during the crisis, our clients’ preferences didn’t change in the popular regions, there was an increase in demand of the most centralized micro-areas of the city of 5-7%.

This can be explained due to a fall in rents and clients being able to improve the conditions of their leases. It is worth pointing out that Krylatskoe is becoming very popular due to the fact that there are a lot of high-class business centres located there, as well as schools for foreign children.

Within the central region we have a rearrangement of the micro areas depending on their popularity. The fi rst place, without a doubt today is taken by Khamovniki which absorbs almost 20% of total demand in the centre.

Next we have Tverskaya area and the Arbat with 15% demand rate each, Presnya is 12%, Basmanaya and Zamockvadech each 10%.

Their popularity is explained by objective and subjective factors. The objective factors are that historically-speaking, elite real estate is in the centre of

the city. Subjective factors for many clients are related to road accessibility, nearness to their offi ces as well as schools, good infrastructure and ecological factors.

The high popularity elite real estate in the city central areas for foreigners has a historical explanation: these particular areas are very popular amongst buyers and investors and the buildings have always been well looked after. When considering demand for elite real estate, we should not overlook the fact that right from the beginning of the economic crisis, rents have been adjusted in practically all areas of the city.

Most clients have reconciled their budgets by reducing their expenditures. Despite the fact that the popularity of the Central, East, South East and North East areas did not diminish, these areas lost more in rent than other areas. This tendency can’t be called a “collapse” or a “crisis”; it is actually more like a normalisation. Average rents in the centre ranges from around $10,000-$15,000 per month, with rents varying from $2000-$3000, with a maximum of $50,000 per month.

As far as current trends in the real estate market go, we would like to point out the increased popularity of new buildings in the city’s central areas, such as Khamovniki, as well as elite apartments in the South East part of the city. Quite popular amongst employees of international companies, are renowned areas with spacious apartments on Leninsky Prospect. Our clients consider the most interesting area to be Khamovniki; experts from our company took part in planning the infrastructure of some of the complexes in this area.

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CL ASS Options for expat parents in Moscow, Europe’s largest city, are expanding as its economy develops, with families facing a choice of fairly traditional Russian state schools, Russian private schools or international schools. The schools featured here are both small institutions, offering individualised attention for children.

Larger international schools on offer in the capital include the Anglo-American school, linked to the American embassy

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Living in Moscow: Selected International Schools Options for expat parents in Moscow, Europe’s largest city, are expanding as its economy develops, with families facing a choice of fairly traditional Russian state schools, Russian private schools or international schools. The schools featured here are both small institutions, offering individualised attention for children.

Larger international schools on offer in the capital include the Anglo-American school, linked to the American embassy, and the multi-site British International School.

INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL, MOSCOW

ENGLISH INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Background: The International School of Moscow, not to be confused with its near-namesake, is also a comparatively young and fast-growing school, having been founded in April 2007. TISM, in a well-to-do area of west Moscow, is situated on the site of the 1980 Olympic Games: the ice hockey stadium is opposite. The school currently educates pupils from the age of two to 13, with GCSE courses for older children due to start next year.

For the past two years, the school has been attracting pupils from British embassy families, along with children whose parents are working in business and commerce. Facilities on the lower school site include playing fields, library, and computer suite, and on the upper site, a gym, basketball court and golf driving range.

Curriculum: The school offers the English national curriculum and its associated tests, with local adaptations including daily Russian lessons, with French also taught. Sporting and artistic activities range from dance and gymnastics to ultimate Frisbee. Results: Marks from key stage two English national curriculum tests, set at the age of 11, have been consistently well ahead of English averages. The school does not yet have any GCSE results.

Admission: TISM is selective, with academic assessments taking place at the school from reception (age four) upwards.

Fees: Annual charges from €11,970 (£10,251) to €19,665 (£16,841). €200 (£171) application fee, a charge €6,000 (£5,138) per family, annual lunch charge of €1,222 (£1,047) and uniform costs of €250 (£214). Bus service €2,205 (£1,888).

Background: The English International School, Moscow prides itself on its small-school ethos: there are only 150 pupils here, spread over the ages of three to 18.

The school has grown rapidly since its foundation five years ago, when it had only 36 children. Next summer, the first group of students will sit A-levels and this is also the first year taking their International GCSEs. The school, one of a group of five established in locations ranging from Majorca to Seoul by the private operator Orbital Education, is situated on a one-hectare site in Moscow’s eastern suburbs,.

Curriculum: The school offers an adapted version of the English national curriculum, followed by International GCSEs and then A-levels. One of most significant ways in which the curriculum is adapted is that children are routinely “accelerated” through their lessons from year five onwards.

Results: Only three pupils have so far completed GCSEs. However, last year’s year 10 took a range of IGCSEs early, with a 100 per cent A*-C rate recorded in maths and seven out of 10 gaining Cs or better in English.

Admission: Non-selective, or “all-enveloping”, as the school puts it. It is proud of its work to support children with special educational needs.

Fees: Annual charges from €13,900 (£11,917) to €20,40021,400 (£17,490-£18,348) in the senior school. Entry fee €2,000 (£1,715). Bus service (€1,000, £857) per term and school uniform (about €200, £171) costing extra.

Selective school set in the surroundings of Moscow’s Olympic Park

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Highly international institution that emphasises a caring ethos

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Here is the H&T Guide to the Best Dance Schools in Moscow.

Everybody knows that a good dancer is a good lover; think of the silent-screen star Rudolf Valentino, or John Travolta.

Dance isn’t only about sex; but it is a fundamental part of being human. Dance is a means of communication; think how you use dance in a nightclub to express feelings and emotions. If you have children, dance classes are a very good way for them to make new friends. Moscow is the home of the Bolshoi, so if your son is a budding Billy Elliott, or your daughter wants to follow in the footsteps of Anastasia Volochkova, then this is the city to be in.

Duncan Dance School

Duncan Dance School offers a great variety of dance styles – starting from ballet all the way to hip-hop. For almost every style there are several instructors, according to the level of the group’s skills. The instructors and speak English, which, probably, accounts for quite a large number of French, Italian, Latin American, Spanish and Brazilian adults, as

E H 1 llie, it h ollan 6, fro eve ere… d, sa m lan n hav It’s li ys: “I l gua e to ke y ike eac ge – y spea ou do k n ho o the u und anoth ’t r in e ers dan tan r d ce”

street jazz, r’n’b, jazz-modern, belly dance, Latin dance, tango, and special children’s dance groups.

Facilities: two dance halls, a small comfortable hall for rehearsals and warm-ups; changing rooms with showers, cafe. English-speaking: yes Cost: classical ballet 250 roubles; other dance, 300-400 roubles Address: Leningradsky Pr., 32/2, “Sovetsky” Hotel, 3rd floor.

Tel.: 251-0151

well as kids taking, dance classes in Duncan.

Another of Duncan’s is its collaboration with foreign dancers and frequent master classes. At present a Brazilian dance show is being prepared, which also includes the Brazilian dancers giving Latin dance and hip-hop classes. There is a good clientfriendly atmosphere.

Classical ballet, hip-hop substyles,

Model-357

Model-357 provides a dancer with as many as seventeen different styles to choose from, and qualified instructors, among whom you will find American and Cuban choreographers. The school has two locations, both with plastic floor covering, and are equipped with professional light, sound and air conditioning systems.

What is on offer: club dance, belly dance, Latin dance, strip dance, hip-hop, break dance, krumping, ragga, jazz -modern, stretching, yoga. Facilities: five dance halls with professional light, sound and air conditioning systems.

English-speaking: yes Cost: an hour’s lesson of club dance is 220 roubles; Latin, strip dance is 350 roubles Address: Novolesnaya Str., 1/49.

Tel.: 223-23-67, 773-57-66

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Mainstream

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Mainstream, despite being quite a new school, has already become popular among lovers of hip-hop.

Besides hip-hop, you will find a lot of interesting dance styles here: belly dance, strip dance, Latin dance, jazzmodern and club dancing. A notable Mainstream characteristic is that it regularly organizes dance parties in clubs, in which the best students and the instructors take part. It also organizes summer dance camps by the sea. What the dancers say: What is on offer: mainstream, hiphop, Latin dance, strip dance, belly dance, jazz-modern, club dance.

Facilities: two large dance halls, changing rooms with showers.

English-speaking: yes Cost: an hour’s lesson of any style 350 roubles Address: Krivokolenny Per., 14.

Tel.: 585-6140

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Todes

Peter, 21: «Very professional hip-hop classes, that can be enjoyed by everyone»

Tatyana Timofeeva’s Dance Centre This is a dance school noted for its classical ballet, but it also offers yoga, Pilates, belly dance and modern dance. There are also special children’s groups and a breakdance group for teens. Every six months the school organises concerts in which almost all of its students take part. The school regularly invites dancers from other countries to conduct master classes and seminars.

What is on offer: Classical ballet, yoga, Pilates, belly dance, modern dance, hip-hop Facilities: two dance halls, a small comfortable hall for rehearsals and warm-ups; changing rooms with showers. English-speaking: yes Cost: 3200 roubles for any 8 classes Address: Sivtsev Vrajek, 20. Tel.: 244-7407

Todes can be called a dance school almost everyone might have heard of, since it plays a supporting role to the well-known Todes Ballet, which takes an active part in a great number of concerts and performances, and is constantly in need of new dancers.

This is, probably, the only school that offers its own style – Todes, which comprises elements of hiphop, jazz-modern and a lot more – rather than a range of various styles like hip-hop, for example, or modern dance. If you are intent on making your hobby a profession, or just trying something new, this is, in all likelihood, the school for you. What is on offer: hip-hop, jazz-modern, modern.

Facilities: 4 dance halls, and changing rooms with showers, a bar. English-speaking: yes Cost: 4500 roubles per month (12 classes); 870 roubles for the first class. Address: Krasnokazarmennaya Str., 2. Tel.: 261-10-26

here’s T “ : 1 2 ” Irina, ike us. l y d o nob

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M 1 in th 8: “I’ve a r i a , ta A ve eir sum r mer ken pa sure y high rt dan le ly w c ill re vel of e scho o i pea t it th nstructi l. on, is su I mm er”

TSEH

TSEH is quite different from the schools listed above; it is, in fact, a dance theatres’ agency rather than simply a school. Its main business is organizing dance festivals and summer dance schools, which last for about 3 weeks and include daily master classes with the best dance instructors – Russian as well as foreign ones. They also offer regular master classes and classes of contemporary dance, which are taught by two instructors.

What is on offer: contemporary dance Facilities: a large dance hall, changing rooms with showers.

English-speaking: yes Cost: an hour’s lesson is 300 roubles. Address: Vostochnaya Str., 4.Tel.: 221-0757

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While the sights in Moscow might be enough to keep you occupied for days, you will certainly want to keep your strength up with some fine Russian cuisine. At one time, dining out in Russia was not nearly as popular as it is today and many Muscovites chose to stay home and dine rather than dining out

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While the sights in Moscow might be enough to keep you occupied for days, you will certainly want to keep your strength up with some fine Russian cuisine. At one time, dining out in Russia was not nearly as popular as it is today and many Muscovites chose to stay home and dine rather than dining out.

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SHINOK

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If you wanted to go to Dis ended up in Moscow, ney World, but somehow top of your dining wish Turandot should be at the in wigs and gowns, mulist. Completely costumed sic and servers scuttlesicians play chamber muunbelievably extravaga to and fro. The decor is niture, gilded light fixturnt, with hand-painted furceiling. It is certainly es and frescoed cupola Cinderella’s castle. Tu every bit as elaborate as randot is named for a cini opera set in old Pe Pucreason as any to serveking, which is as good a Chinese food in this baroque int and Japanese erior.

TsDL

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AVIA N I D N A SC

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BEIGE

Beige might sound boring, but subtle lines and soft colours render this romantic cafe anything but. The setting is so sensual due in part to the circular room, arched doorways and rounded ceilings. The lack of sharp angles is cosy and comfortable, but still sophisticated.

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FOOD Cafes, Coffee houses and bakeries

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OSCOW Art-Café Publika D-4, Ul. Pyatnitskaya 30, M bldg.

1,MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 651 84 05, www.cafepublika.ru. Perhaps this place has a little way to go MOSCOW to earn its self-appointed title of ‘art-café’ (no, putting up sepia photos of the Eiffel Tower doesn’t automatically make you arty). Nonetheless it makes good use of historic building in which it finds itself; the open-plan style lends itself well to the window-lined room with views of historic Moscow. The international menu is likewise not as creative as you might like from somewhere like this, but the light business lunch option (salad, soup and drink) seems fairly priced at 180Rbl. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sut 12:00 until last guest. €€.

Chainaya Vysota E-2 Ul. Pokrovka 27, MChystye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 225 59 96, www.cha108.ru. We’re finding it difficult to condense how exciting this place is into words! An ice-cream-café-cum-specialist-tea-shop, it features delicate mixes from the minds of local artists such as famous mime Slava Polunin. The available flavours include dandelion honey, elk milk, kvass and linseed, with more daring combinations such as the gorgonzola, bergamot and pear. all in the etting of a bookshop, furnished with clean, simple linen. When out and about don’t miss their stand in Gorky Park opposite the Buran space shuttle (Gorky Park, Pushkinskaya Embankment, tel: (+7) 903 010 80 30). QOpen 11:00 00:30, Sun 14:00 - 00:30.

Koffeecake Corner B-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 669 57 75, www. koffeecakecorner.com. This American coffee house all the way from New York is full of sticky pancakes, chocolatey muffins and other happy-making sweet treats. It would be only too easy to get addicted to their irresistible Nutella coffee and peanut butter hot chocolate (and there are plenty of other shamefully indulgent flavours to pick from). Then of course there’s toasted bagels, burgers and plenty of choices even for vegetarians it’s not hard to see why Koffeecake Corner has soyal following back home. Open 24hrs. €.

Le Pain Quotidien C-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 77 42, www.lpq.ru.

This Belgian bakery with outlets the world over brings its rustic down-to-earth bread philosophy to Moscow.

Long wooden tables, delicious coffee served in bowls perfect for dipping your croissant in, Belgian tartines, salads and cheese boards are all on offer. Many locations have excellent street terraces including this one just a short distance from Red Square. Has numerous locations across the city. Q Open 07:00 23:00, Thu - Sat 24hrs. €.

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TRAVEL After exploring Moscow’s main sites, it’s always tempting to get beyond the hectic life of the city and explore somewhere a bit different. Quiet Kolomna might lack the fame of the Golden Ring, but that’s not to say there’s nothing here to see.

Your guide book might only mention Vladimir, Suzdal and Yaroslavl, and you’ll struggle to find much about the town in English on the Internet, but don’t let that put you off. It’s not because Kolomna isn’t worth visiting, quite the opposite

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fter exploring Moscow’s main sites, it’s always tempting to get beyond the hectic life of the city and explore somewhere a bit different. Quiet Kolomna might lack the fame of the Golden Ring, but that’s not to say there’s nothing here to see. Your guide book might only mention Vladimir, Suzdal and Yaroslavl, and you’ll struggle to find much about the town in English on the Internet, but don’t let that put you off. It’s not because Kolomna isn’t worth visiting, quite the opposite; the key reason is that during communist times, the Kolomna region hosted factories that were involved in the production of military equipment, and was off-limits even to ordinary Soviet citizens, so the chance of curious foreigners being allowed in was somewhere between nil and zilch! Soviet paranoia has diminished somewhat in recent years so Kolomna is open to all, although very few foreigners make the trip simply because they aren’t aware of it.

The town’s most unique attraction, in fact, is a factory of sorts. But far from military technology, the Kolomna Pastilla museum (www.kolomnapastila. ru/en/) on Posadskaya Ulitsa is all about confectionary made from the fruits of the region’s orchards. A guided tour shows how the candies were made and gives visitors the chance to try a few tasty treats for themselves, while the attached shop offers the perfect souvenir for friends back home.

The Pastilla business reached its peak in the 19th century, when it even got the Royal seal of approval after a visit from the Tsar, but the town dates way back to 1177. You’ll do well to find anything that old nowadays but the 16th-century Kremlin is still a big draw. It was re- built in stone between 1525 and 1531 during the reign of Tsar Vasily III (initially it had been made from wood). West European Russia used to have hundreds of Kremlins, varying in size although few survive intact today and the Kolomna Kremlin stands as an example of one of the better preserved.

In fact this particular Kremlin formed part of the Great Abatis Line (‘Bolshaya Zasechnayacherta’ in Russian) which was a chain of fortifications created by the Grand Duchy of Moscow, and later the Tsardom of Russia to protect it initially from raids by Crimean Tatars but also served as a border between the Muscovy state and the steppe nomads

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to the south. In total it stretched for several hundred miles. Situated on the confluence of the Moskva and Oka rivers, the Kolomna Kremlin once had 17 towers, four of which had gates, with the main gates being located at the northern and southern end of the complex. Only seven towers and two parts of the wall have survived. However, on its

territory are numerous churches and monasteries which are open to the public (except the femaleonly convent!), the key ones being the Uspensky Cathedral, the Voskresensky Chruch and the Spassky Monastery. There are plenty of souvenir stalls selling touristy kitsch to prove that you’ve actually been to Kolomna.

There are several restaurants bunched together at the entrance to the old part of Kolomna, all serving up a combination of Russian and European-style food, plus beer brewed in nearby Ryazan.

Despite the ‘tourist trap’ potential location, prices are reasonable (i.e., considerably lower than what you’d pay for similar fare in Moscow)! It’s hardly Michelin star but several steps up from stolovaya standard!

Situated on the confluence of the Moskva and Oka rivers, the Kolomna Kremlin once had 17 towers, four of which had gates, with the main gates being located at the northern and southern end of the complex. Only seven towers and two parts of the wall have survived. However, on its territory are numerous churches and monasteries which are open to the public (except the female-only convent!), the key ones being the Uspensky Cathedral, the Voskresensky Chruch and the Spassky Monastery.

Getting there Kolomna is just over 100km from Moscow, making for an easy day trip. Your best bet is to drive, as the distance can be covered in under two hours (although part of the road was under construction when we visited, resulting in a detour and a significant delay, by the time you read this it should have been ‘remonted’)! Take the highway heading south-east from Moscow through Lyubertsy towards Ryazan.

In case you don’t have your own wheels, the trains are always come to the rescue – there are two options, both leaving from Moscow’s Kazansky Vokzal (at metro Komsomolskaya on the red/brown line): Express train: there are three per day in both directions heading for Ryazan, but stopping at Golutvin which is a couple of km from downtown Kolomna – walk from there or catch a cab for 100Rbl. This option is definitely the quicker as the train takes around an hour and a half and you’ll have a reserved seat, but tickets can sell out at peak times. Unlike the elektrichka, once the tickets have gone, it’s tough luck – you’ll have to wait for the next train (unless you’ve booked in advance)!

Elektrichka: there are numerous trains daily although bear in mind that they stop at every lamppost along the way so the journey will take you over two hours each way.

Buying a ticket doesn’t guarantee you a seat and in the summer months you’ll share a wooden bench with a babushka carrying two large bags to and from their dacha. The advantage of this method is that the tickets are (slightly) cheaper than the express, and they don’t sell out, even if you have to stand for part/all of the trip, and the train will drop you off right in the middle of Kolomna!

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TRAVEL Moscow Train Stations

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There are 9 train stations in Moscow. Each has the name of the main direction of the trains that depart from this railway station. All the railway stations are located close to the centrum of the city. The three train stations: M«Kazanski», OSCOW «Yaroslavki» and «Leningradski» are located next to «Komsomolskaya» metro station (north-east center). There’s also international train ticket sales office at Yaroslavsky station, where you can buy Trans-Siberian tickets.

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There are many certain peculiarities that only Russians have and it’s useful to know them. Otherwise you risk losing friends, getting shot, or having an argument. Below we tried to list some common traits of the Russian character and list some things that Russians love and hate

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There are certain peculiarities that only Russians have and it’s useful to know them.

Otherwise you risk losing friends, getting shot, or having an argument.

Below we tried to list some common traits of the Russian character and list some things that Russians love and hate.

If you are lucky enough to meet a person whose character incorporates all of the items from the list below, we can assure you that this person possesses the pure Russian spirit and should be treated with high respect. If you decide to become a Russian, you can use the list below as guidelines.

FOLK Russian Customs... you feel completely full and not capable of moving. If you think that’s dangerous for your health, or you’re on a diet, we advise you to emulate satiety, otherwise you will end up badly. Gremyachinsk village at Baikal Lake - right before we got invited for a meal • We value generousity. We can give you the last piece of bread we have if we believe you really need it. And we expect the same in return.

• Some of us are naturally indifferent; we don’t care too much about dirt on the streets, saving money, the war in Tchechnya, breaking the rules, risking without particular reason, drinking too much...

• ... and most of us are very proud.

Don’t talk to us about our vices, we won’t listen anyway. And don’t dare to critisize the way our country is -- Russia is the best place and we will prove it to the whole world very soon.

• Some of us are quite emotional, but somehow it’s all kept inside most of the time. We may seem a bit cold and too much to ourselves at first, but when you get to know us better, we’re like a volcanoe.

• We are a free nation. Here we despise all the rules. It’s an honor for our drivers to move on the red light or to bother other drivers and scorn pedestrians.

• It’s cool to do nothing and to just lie on the sofa thinking about how great you are. Really, Russia is such an amazing country and we have given the world so much, that we can rest a bit.

• If you’re invited for a meal, expect that the hosts will feed you until

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• We love trends – even though we’re not the global trend-setters, we take them to the extremes. Give us the latest Dazed & Confused and we’ll show you how to turn avant-garde to mainstream and even make good money on it. By the way, same goes for technology and the internet. We get it later, but we make it better :) • We are not politically correct, we take pleasure in talking our opinions out loud and we will not use fancy words to conceal our real

FOLK

feelings.

• We don’t feel easy about talking to strangers on the street, but if you start conversation saying that you’re from another country or ask for some help, there’s a good chance we will be very open, because we are naturally curious about foreigners.

• Some of us think that foreigners are bloody rich; so if we spot a foreigner, we try to make some money on him, because we still have this communist idea that everybody should be equal.

• Women and old women are very respected here. It’s considered polite if while being in the metro and seeing a woman or an old woman coming in and there’re no free seats, man offers her his seat.

• Beware of the babushkas (old women). They are active, pushy and very proud of themselves, so if you do something not the way they think you should’ve done, better disappear.

• When you are invited to the party bring something with you - beer is usually accepted with pleasure.

• If you invited a girl or a woman somewhere be prepared to pay for her everywhere. If you invited a man, he’ll pay for himself, and there’s a good chance he’ll pay for you as well without telling you about it.

• Men should be strong and assertive and women should be smart and beautiful. That’s just one of our stereotypes.

• No, Russians are not racists. We were grown up in the world, where everybody is equal and where the friendship of nations is an important

FOLK ...and Traditions part of our agenda. If you notice one of us staring occasionally at a black person, it’s just because we are curious -- there’s not many black people in Russia... The only word of warning is about older people, who are sometimes too much patriotic, so be careful: don’t offend their feelings.

• Yes, we love vodka, but we’re not alcoholics. Despite what some people think, Russians are not drunkards, they just have a special resistance to alchohol, that’s why they can drink so much. And we actually get our strength from it and it warms us during the cold winters.

By the way, if you drink with us, you’ll have to drink as much as we do, or we will be offended.

• Russians are weird. We think that a sudden change from communism to capitalism has something to do with it, but this topic deserves a more thorough exploration. The only smart explanation that can be proposed here is that some of us jumped too deep into capitalist world, while some stayed too far behind.

• Russians are hooligans. It’s not because we’re bad - we just like everything extraordinary. But too often we don’t express this feeling enough, so when it comes out, it’s like a volcanoe. That’s why you hear our tourists singing folk songs at 3am and that’s why we make a revolution every 80 years.

• We believe in magnetism. The thing is, that every so often the sun sends some electro-magnetic signals and this affects the whole course of events on the earth, including our mood and feelings.

So, if you see two housewives discussing how bad their day went because of the electromagnetic storm that happened in

the afternoon - don’t think they are adepts of some sort of new age philosophy, it’s completely normal here.

• Yes, we are superstitious. And if you want to shake our hand, you can never ever do it through the door: you have to come in, otherwise we will quarrel. If you come back to your house just after you left - look at the mirror, it’s for your own good. If you’re sitting at the corner of the table, you won’t be married for 7 years. If a fork falls, a woman is going to come, if a knife falls, a man will certainly appear.

• Most of us know a few words in English, but we are too shy to speak - no practice, you see... However, you will be surprised at how many things are written in English on the streets: it is used to show a shop or a cafe, to advertise a new product, and there’s a lot of foreign goods. Also, almost more than a half of Russian products have their ingredients listed in English.

Russians learn English at school, and many people can understand the basics, but are shy to speak to a stranger. We estimate about every one out of five Moscovitans can speak English well enough, and there’s a higher chance among younger people.

• We like all things fancy. But our understanding of it is very original.

You will often see men in suits or tucked-in shirts and office trousers (even in clubs on Friday night), while women prefer noticeable and sexy outfits. The colors for men are usually dark or grey, while women like light and white colors. This is a generalization and of course you’ll see a lot of different people and outfits.

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• A club is not a place to party - it’s M Oones.

SCOW the place for the chosen If you want to visit clubs, they have this thing called «dress code» where you might not be allowed because you wear Nike sneakers, old khakis or a fleece coat.

However, the rules are more lax for foreigners, so if unsure about your appearance just speak English while you’re passing the club’s entrance, and you’re guaranteed to get in.

• We express what we feel, but we’re not extrovert. We shout in public and we kiss in public. It’s acceptable to show affection in public (look at how many kissing couples there are on the long escalators in Moscow metro!) but extrovert behaviour may be resisted. You won’t see a lot of people sitting in public places with their legs stretched or crossed (in an American way) and Russians do not gesticulate much when they are talking.

• Most Russians feel a bit strange about gays and lesbians, but prefer not to talk or express their feelings about it. There is however, quite a large gay & lesbian community in Moscow and St. Petersburg and specialized websites have thousands and thousands of profiles featuring gorgeous queer men and women.

• Smoking is a national sport, but many people understand it’s not good for health and will always agree to turn off their cigarette if it bothers you.

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BALALAIKA The balalaika is a Russian folk stringed musical instrument with a characteristic triangular body and three strings The balalaika family of instruments includes instruments of various sizes, from the highest-pitched to the lowest, the prima balalaika, secunda balalaika, alto balalaika, bass balalaika, and contrabass balalaika. All have three-sided bodies; spruce, evergreen, or fir tops; and backs made of three to nine wooden sections (usually maple). They are typically strung with three strings.

The prima balalaika is played with the fingers, the secunda and alto either with the fingers or a plectrum, depending on the music being played, and the bass and contrabass are played with leather plectrums The earliest mention of the term balalaika dates back to an AD 1688 Russian document. The term «bala-baika» was widely used in Ukrainian language dcuments from 1717 to 1732. According to one theory,the term was loaned to Russian, where - in literary language - it first appeared in «Elysei», a 1771 poem by V. Maikov.

The modern balalaika is found in the following sizes: piccolo (rare) prima secunda alto tenor bass contrabass The most common solo instrument is the prima, which is tuned EE-A (thus the two lower strings are tuned to the same pitch).

Sometimes the balalaika is tuned «guitar style» by folk musicians to G-B-D (mimicking the three highest strings of the Russian guitar), whereby it is easier to play for Russian guitar players, although classically trained balalaika purists avoid this tuning.

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double courses are also common and popular, particularly in Ukraine. These instruments have three double courses similar to the stringing of the mandolin and often use a «guitar» tuning. Four string alto balalaikas are also encountered and are used in the orchestra of the Piatnistky Folk Choir.

The piccolo, prima, and secunda balalaikas were originally strung with gut with the thinnest melody string made of stainless steel.

Today, nylon strings are commonly used in place of gut.

It can also be tuned to E-A-D, like its cousin, the domra, to make it easier for those trained on the domra to play the instrument, and still have a balalaika sound. The folk (pre-Andreev) tuning D-F#-A was very popular, as this makes it easier to play certain riffs.

Factory-made six-string prima balalaikas with three sets of

The earliest mention dates back to 1688 Always with a triangular body and three strings

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FOLK Chronicles first mention it under the year 1376, and since that time it was worn well until the 20th century. It is now worn as folk costume for performing Russian folk songs and folk dancing. Plain sarafans are still designed and worn today as a summer-time light dress.

It was the dress worn by peasant girls and women in the central and northern part of Russia until the 20th century. Russian women from the upper and middle classes stopped wearing traditional Russian costume in the 18th

different styles such as the simpler black, flower- or check-patterned versions formerly used for everyday wear, or the elaborate brocade versions formerly reserved for special occasions. The head-dress usually worn with the sarafan today in folk performances is the

The earliest mention dates back to 1376 Always worn sleeveless with a shirt underneeth

kokoshnik, although in the past a head scarf tied under the chin or at the back of the head was part of everyday dress.

Plain sarafans are still designed and worn today as a summer-time light dress without the traditional

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century, during PeterMthe Great’s OSCOW modernization of Russia, apart from the kokoshniks as part a court dress (although the clothing M O S C O Wstyle of Russian aristocrats differed greatly from those of commoners).

O S C O W for It is now worn as folkMcostume performing Russian folk songs and folk dancing.

Sarafans could be of single piece construction with thin shoulder straps over which sleeveless vest, called a ÂŤdushegreyaÂť is sometimes worn, giving the shape of the body of a smaller triangle over a larger one. It comes in

Russian blouse. They can be worn during folk music and dance performances and are prod-uced as souvenirs

SARAFAN A Sarafan is a traditional Russian long, trapeze-shaped jumper dress (pinafore) worn as Russian folk costume by women and girls.

FOLK

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Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; including the hair spring and escapement.

To visit the factory (which offers free tours in English), you would have to travel to St. Petersburg. Read the story below to find out what makes Raketa so interesting

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Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; including the hair spring and escapement. To visit the factory (which offers free tours in English), you would have to travel to St. Petersburg. Read the story below to find out what makes Raketa so interesting.

It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had become the

SHOP Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers.

The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. With the help of Swiss engineers, the factory began to be reorganised in 2009.

There are now approximately 60 workers, (originally there were around 6000), still using

the factory’s original buildings.

The factory purchased modern equipment from the Swatch group in 2011, which improved the watch quality; although a range of Soviet machines indispensible to the watch-making process are still in use. An ex-Rolex production director joined the team in 2012, planning to pass on the Swiss standard certification “Chronofiable” and “COSC” to the company. In 2013, Raketa launched its new “Automat Raketa” movement, and a new watch designed by the famous actress Natalia Vodianova.

Raketa watches were produced for the Communist Party and affiliate organisations, and their watches are therefore tailored to the

RAKETA

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WATCH LEGEND

needs of these jobs. The ‘Seaman’ watch has a 24 hour dial, divided into three watch systems: Russian, British, and Scandinavian, and is decorated with marine cardinal buoys and International Marine signal flags. It features an integrated solar compass, and a double time system, useful when sailing around the world.

The ‘Traveller’ watch, inspired by Russia’s vastness, features all of the country’s eleven time zones.

Other watches include the ‘Eternal Calendar’, which allows the user to look up any date and discover which day of the week it will fall on, and the ‘Gorbachev’ watch, which features a 0 instead of a 12.

Foreign journalists questioned its uniqueness, to which Gorbachev’s reply was: ‘in Russia, we start at again at 0’. As these organisations had a male majority, Raketa

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produce few women’s watches.

Some designs include the ‘Ballerina’ watch, which features red stars on its face reminiscent of those on the Kremlin; and the ‘Winter’ watch, inspired by Russian folk tales. Raketa manufactures watches to commemorate special occasions.

In 2012, the «Borodino» watch, featuring an eagle, a symbol of the Russian Empire, was created to celebrate the 200th anniversary of the Great Patriotic War. The factory also designed a watch for the Sochi Winter Olympics in 2014, with a different sport represented at each hour. On this page we have highlighted one of Raketa’s most interesting watches, and listed where to buy them - they would make a great souvenir of your time in Russia! www.raketa.com

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SHOP Rubber boots

Chances are you’ve seen many rubber boots over the past rainy weeks. Here we’ve documented the rise, demise and return of rubber shoes. The great Hessian shoe ripoff, a.k.a. the Wellington, is not only gaining market share in Moscow but even street cred as consumers flock to claim their own pair of designer rubber boots. For many expats, the Wellington is synonymous with Sunday afternoon strolls through muddy fields and misty downs. However, in Moscow, one must wonder at the arrival of this shoe on a market whose leitmotiv is heels always and everywhere.The logical explanation is global warming. Average rainfall this September landed us with a whopping 174mmof rain.That’s three times the average. Instead of getting our Indian summer,we broke all records for seasonal rainfall dating back as far as 1879.Weeks of unrelenting downpours left us knee-deep in toxic street water, fearful to leave the house lest our shoes be ravaged by chemical waste. But what if there weremore to the rise of theWelly than freak weather fronts and illconceived drainage systems?This unassuming resin shoe has actually been around for two centuries already, laying claim throughout the decades to feet of all shapes, sizes and social origin. Ironically, the original “billy boot” started out as the leather go-to shoe for armed aristocrats on horses, after Arthur Wellesley, the Duke ofWellington, had his tailor shamelessly rip-off of the Hessian leather knee-high. His fans were quick to hop on the bandwagon and soon the Wellington soon rose to fame, but its destiny was about to split at the seams. Arthur’s fashion forgery became both a stylish military accessory, suitable for the bloodiest of battlefields, and a hardwearing Welly urban appendage, tailored w a s to the toughest of Dandy out of the lifestyles.It was its very saddle and strength and sheer into the muck versatility that after enter-prising would sire its young man took the demise. leather boot and created By 853, its rubber counterpart. With the 95 percent of farmers abusing their feet with calous clogs, it was only matter of time before he usurped blistered and besodden pastoral market with revolutionary waterproof shoe. But what the boots gained in popularity, they lost in exclusivity, sending royal consumers fleeing for the hills. Five decades on and international relations had taken a turn for the worst.Men were bundled by the hundreds of thousands into unsanitary trenches to wait out the bad weather as the First World War plugged on. Rubber boot producers the world over rubbed their hands in tainted glee as army supply managers lined the streets to get their hands on this waterproof wear.Heroes of the nation would sacrifice their lives for the greater good but their memory would live on through the boots salvaged from the remains of their honorable deaths.Fromthere on, the shoes continued their discreet advancement on all fronts, save the fashion scene, until Glastonbury 2005, when the world’s favorite drug addict, Kate Moss, blasted the boot out of the abattoir onto the feet of the muddy musical masses. Since then, fashion houses around the world have been decking it out mannequin feet from Brooklyn to Budapest, and now Barnaul. The designer Wellington comes with heels and ribbons, in pink and animal print.

If you have yet to own a pair of your own, find the popular Hunter brand at concept store Kuznetsky Most 20, TsUM and the sites lamoda.ru and asos.ru. RendezVous sells rubber boots by Marc by Marc Jacobs from 9,900 to 12,990 rubles. You can find even higher-end designer version at TsUM and at Lotte Plaza. Shopbop. com, which ships to Russia for free, sells boots by Hunter and Red Valentino for between $130 and $200.

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