KWEMA DEC 2013 - JAN 2014 A product of KWEMA REALTORS
CELEBRATING KENYA’S GOLDEN JUBILEE HAPPY BIRTHDAY KENYA!
Special Jubilee Feature. Pictorial Timeline of Kenya’s Developement From The Pre-Independence Period to Date
Buildings, Streets & Events Nairobi’s Tallest over the last 50 years Buildings In Focus: Nairobi, Mombasa, Nakuru, Kisumu And Other Important Cities In Kenya
The Top 10: Times Tower, KICC, The New KCB Towers...
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70 Nairobi’s Tallest Buildings
Nairobi: Important Buildings, Streets and Events over the last 50 + years
36 City of Mombasa - Evolution Over The Last
50 Years
50 City of Kisumu - Evolution Over The Last
50 Years
54 Evolution Over The Last 50 Years In Other Major Cities in Kenya: Eldoret, Embu, Kisii, Kericho, Kiambu, Kakamega, Lamu, Nyeri, Gatundu and Nanyuki.
40 Nakuru’s Rich History From the Langa Langa Race Circuit to the Egerton Castle
20 Nyali Bridge and The Hilton Hotel
1920s - Present
28 Odeon Cinema 1950s - Present 34-35 Church History: All Saints Cathedral
And St Andrews
64 Parliament Grounds 1960s - Present 46 Bank Of India Nairobi From the early
CONTENTS
26 Torr’s Hotel: From Busy “House of Sin” to a Bank
1900s - Present
47-49 Hilton Hotel from the late 1800s - Pesent 67 McMillan Library and Cameo Cinema 68 Old PC’s Office and Kipande House
32 Nairobi’s Iconic Koja Mosque
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LAND FOR SALE
“A great Investment in an already growing location.”
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IsinyaPlains
PART I
1/8 (KES 1 Million) 1/4 (KES 1.8Million) 1/2 (KES 2 Million) All plots are about 100 meters from the main road 10KM from the Kiserian Pipeline turn off.
PART II
Gated Community (Controlled Development) 13 1/4 acre plots (KES 4 Million) Existing Trenches, Semi perimeter wall already built.Purchasor chooses their plot from an available plot plan (different shapes to view and choose from). 10KM from the Kiserian Pipeline turn off.
facebook.com/KwemaRealtors
PART III
@KwemaRealtors
1/8 Acre (KES 1.5Million) 20KM from the Kiserian Pipeline turn-off, within kwemarealtors@gmail.com the Ole Tikosh Shopping center ISSUE 3 | KWEMA 5 0727 207313
Appreciation Our last issue of Property Magazine “Kwema” had a special feature on Nairobi’s Top Properties below 10million shillings (perfect for investors and first time buyers). And Jimmy Nganga shares 6 proven steps on how to develop the house of your dreams. Read the Mini Version here: issuu.com/kwemarealtors/docs/mini_version_july_-_august
Special thanks
This issue would not be possible without help from the following people/ organizations: TRIAD Architects, Rajni Shah, Through Open Doors, Ron Bullock, Harjinder Kanwal (sikh-heritage.co.uk), Malcolm Mccrow (mccrow.org.uk), Laka Nyaga, The National Museums of Kenya and the Architectural Association of Kenya (http://www.nairobiarchitecture.blogspot. com/), Architecture Kenya (http://archiken.wordpress.com/2012/09/04/47/), We came in Dhows, Robin Grayson, Nigel Pavitt, Photos of the late Jim and Hilda Dixon, buildesign.co.ke, karimbuxhousenakurukenya.blogspot.com, jtkiwi.wordpress.com/, skyscrapercity.com, and skyscrapercenter.com/
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THE CEO’S NOTE To our readers in Kenya - HAPPY KENYA AT 50! Kwema Realtors is a real estate company based in Nairobi, Kenya that markets property and also advices its clients on how to make proper purchasing decisions. This issue is dedicated to Kenya’s Golden Jubilee celebrations. We look at how cities in Kenya have evolved from small townships to huge commercial centers. Kenya has made great strides and is an African leader in education, technology, politics, business and Real Estate. As you look at how far our Real Estate sector has come would your heart be full of joy because of what has been accomplished and expectancy for the coming years. Have a Merry Christmas and Prosperous New Year! Baraka Njagi CEO KWEMA REALTORS
TALK TO US
Please feel free to get in touch with us for any housing, property related needs or queries. And all the best in your endevours!
facebook.com/KwemaRealtors @KwemaRealtors kwemarealtors@gmail.com
TOP REAL ESTATE TWEEPS
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njaginjagz
Price: 65 Million-Negotiable Location: Mountain View Bedrooms: 6, and guest house with 3 bedrooms Back-up generator, Water tanks, Expansive parking and well manicured gardens
njaginjagz
Price: 8.3M, 8.7M, 9M & 11.6M (depending on size) Location: Off Mombasa Road Bedrooms: 3 (with DSQ) Spacious stand alone houses
njaginjagz
Price: 6.8M, 8M Location: Ruaka Bedrooms: 2 bedroom (6.8M), 3 bedroom (8M)
Price: 6 Million Location: Ruaka Bedrooms: 2 Manicured Gardens, Ample parking and open space within the compund
Price: 2.4M, 4M, 5.5M Location: Mombasa Road Bedrooms: 1 Bedroom (2.4M), 2 (4M), 3 (5.5M). Spacious apartments, great for investors and first time buyers ISSUE 3 | KWEMA
njaginjagz
Price: 55 MILLION Location: RUNDA Bedrooms: 6 - Plus 1 DSQ Square Feet: 425 M2 Half an acre
INSTAGRAM FEED
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CITY OF NAIROBI N
airobi is the capital and the largest city in Kenya. It has a population of about 4-5 Million people.
1. An aerial shot of Nairobi in the 1950s
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The area was essentially an uninhabited swamp until a supply depot of the Uganda Railway was built in 1899, which soon became the railway’s headquarters. The city was named after a water hole known in Maasai as Enkare Nairobi, meaning “place of cool waters.” It was completely rebuilt in the early 1900s after an outbreak of plague and the burning of the original town. The location of the Nairobi railway camp was chosen due to its central position between Mombasa and Kampala. It was also chosen because its network of rivers could supply the camp with water and its elevation would make it cool enough for residential purposes. However, malaria was a serious problem, leading to at least one attempt to have the town moved. In 1905, Nairobi replaced Mombasa as capital of the British protectorate,and the city grew around administration and tourism, initially in the form of big game hunting. As the British occupiers started to explore the region, they started using Nairobi as their first port of call. This prompted the colonial government to build several spectacular grand hotels in the city. The main occupants were British game hunters. In 1919, Nairobi was officialy declared to be a municipality and in 1950 on March 31st Nairobi was declared a city.
2. Photograph of Moi Avenue (then Government road) in the 1920s. The old Nairobi Bus station opposite the National Bank (Now National Archives) - later the Hilton was built on this land. As you can see Ambassadeur Hotel had not yet been developed. 3. Photograph of Nairobi in the 1970s 4. An antique post card of Nairobi in the 1960s ISSUE 3 | KWEMA
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Aerial view of Nairobi in 1954 Picture courtesy of Don Wise
A post card of Kenyatta Avenue (then called Delamere avenue) in the 1950s 12
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One of the earliest photographs of Moi Avenue (Then Government road) in late 1880s
Bank of India in the 1970s Off Kenyatta Avenue.
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An arial view of Nairobi in the late 1960s early 1970s Nairobi has grown around its central business district (CBD). The CBD takes a rectangular shape, around the Uhuru Highway, Haille Selassie Avenue, Moi Avenue, and University Way. It features many of Nairobi’s important buildings, including government buildings like the Office of the President,City Hall and Parliament Building. The city square is also located within the perimeter. Most of the skyscrapers in this area are the largest in East and Central Africa and are the headquarters of businesses and corporations.
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Kenya Cin Avenue in Kenya Cin was one o in the wor
Mama Ngina Street in the 1960s The 20th Century building still exists and now hosts the only IMAX theatre in the city.
nema, off Moi n the 1960s. When nema was built it of the best cinemas rld.
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Kenyatta Avenue
(Main Street/ Delamere Avenue)
Above: An aerial shot of Kenyatta Avenue 1934 Right: Kenyatta Avenue 1943
Standard Chartered Bank, then called “The Standard Bank Of South Africa” on Kenyatta Avenue in 1932. You can see the war statue in the background, it was built after the first world war 16
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Kenyatta Avenue 1945
Kenyatta Avenue was originally called 6th Avenue but was renamed Delamere Avenue to commemorate Lord Delamere’s place in the development of the colony, and an eight-foot bronze statue of Delemere erected across from the New Stanley Hotel. After independence in 1963 Delamere Avenue was renamed Kenyatta Avenue and the statue was relocated to the family’s Soysambu estate. DID YOU KNOW: (1) Kenyatta Avenue has more monuments than any other street in the city: The Galton Fenzi Memorial Stone, the World War II memorial statues and pillar. (2) Also unlike other streets, it was specifically designed as a two-lane affair with a sizeable swath between. This was because Nairobi had countable vehicles and the horse-drawn carriages and rickshawsneeded space to negotiate corners. Kenyatta Avenue 1964. Celebration of Uhuru in 1964! In the photo above you can see the Bank of India building (left) and Cameo Cinema (right) that still stand today. ISSUE 3 | KWEMA
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Naivasha 1/4 Acre plots Cash Payment KES 390,000 Instalment KES 410,000.00 (including legal and transfer feee) 200 meters away from the highway 21 plots located off Naivasha Mai Mahiu – Mwichirigi area,, about 14 km from Naivasha town via the Naivasha Mai- Mahiu highway and about 2km before Longonot trading centre.
Kitengela PART I
1/8 Acre plots 8KM from the road KES 400,000
PART II
1/8 Acre plots 100 - 500 Meters from the road Price depending on proximity to the road
facebook.com/KwemaRealtors @KwemaRealtors kwemarealtors@gmail.com 18
0727 207313
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LAND FOR SALE
Ruaka Excellent for development of commercial or residential units. 1/4 Acre plots (KES 8 MillionKES 10 Million) 1/2 Acre plot (KES 45 Million) 1 Acre plot (KES 56 Million) 1/4 Acre around the shopping center (KES 21 Million) 100x60/ just less than a 1/4 (KES 18 Million) Adjacent to Karura Forrest 1/4 Acre (KES 10 Million) Borehole 100 meters Deep
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THEN AND NOW
The floating pontoon bridge linking the Mombasa island to the mainland was at its time the largest in the world and was built by Nyali Limited, a sisal plantation company; that owned much land on the coast north of Mombasa. The new bridge was constructed in 1976.
Above: The Hilton Hotel in 1971 and Right A shot from the same angle today
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THEN AND NOW
Above: Offices of EA Power & Lighting (Electricity House later Nanak House) on Kimathi Street (Then Hardinge Street) around the 1970s Right: Same building today
Left: The modern 20th century Cinema in the 1960s it was among the most modern anywhere in the world. Right: same shot today; hosts the only IMAX theatre in Nairobi
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Moi Avenue
(Formerly known as Government Road)
Moi Avenue in the The 1940s
Government Road and the recently opened Kenya Cinema which at the time would have made most British cinemas look rather basic. Nairobi late 1959-60
Government Road, Nairobi late 1959-60
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Ambassadeur Hotel on Moi Avenue (then called Government road).You can see National Archives (then called National Bank) to the left. Unlike today; not much traffic and buses crowding the area. An aerial shot of Moi Avenue in the 1970s, you can see how well planned and how low Nairobi’s skyline was in those days.
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A gate commemorating the day Nairobi became a city (March 31, 1950). Valley Road in 1962, with The Central Business District in the background.. You can see several trees and very little development.
Nairobi in the early 1970s. This is Kimathi street that was then known as Hardinge road. You can see the Hilton tower in the background.
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The Hilton in Nairobi under construction, it was completed in 1969 and was the tallest building in Nairobi for several years. The Hilton also introduced tall building locations in Israel with the 17 storey Hilton Tel Aviv in 1965 and in 1974 the 21 storey Jerusalem Hilton which remains the tallest building in the Israeli capital. “In Africa, hospitality towers have also been among the tallest with the Hotel du Fevrier in Lome(1980), the 36 storey Ramses in Cairo (1980), the Sheraton Harare (1986), the Ambassador Hotel in Harare (1995), and the Hotel Ivoire Intercontinental in Abijan� (Tall Buildings in Europe, The Middle East and Africa By George Binder). ISSUE 3 | KWEMA
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Torrs Hotel From Busy ‘House of Sin’ to a Bank By John Kamau for allafrica.com
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f all the sin corners of Nairobi in colonial times, there was one that had a reputation as the dungeon of sleaze and sex. But in government documents it was simply Plot 643, Section II Portion 209. The owner of the establishment, Col Ewart Grogan -- (the man who built Getrude’s Children’s Hospital) named this hotel after its manager Joseph Ewart Torr, dispensing with the tradition that pioneer settlers had adopted of naming their enterprises after themselves. To the clientele, it was simply Torr’s. Today housing CfC Stanbic Bank on Nairobi’s Kimathi Street, the Torr’s had in 1928 been given two licences by Ukamba Licensing Area chairman, F.R.C. Marshall: A hotel liquor licence and a general retail liquor license.
Torr's 1926 Extreme right is the Woolworths building and next to Torr's is the Theatre Royal (bulding still intact) -later Cameo Cinema. (photo courtesy Lost Lion of Empire)
But there was more to Torr’s than met the eye. It was the place for soldiers, the police and railway officers who found their Railway Club too official and Muthaiga Club and Nairobi Club too elegant. Some of the rare books on Nairobi capture snippets of life at Torr’s. Let us sample Christopher Hiscox’s The Dawn Standto: The Life of Peter Mills. It tells the true story of a Mike Bradley who had a girlfriend twice his age. In his account,
Mills recalled how he and his friends used to go to Torr’s to “sample the nightlife until the early hours.” One day, “just about sundown as we were stirring from a drunken doze (at the military barracks) an African orderly dashed in with an urgent message...it appeared that Mike Bradley’s girl friend...had been spotted on a balcony high up on the Torr’s... she was half naked and to the consternation of passers-by, was threatening to throw herself off...we dressed quickly and dashed into Nairobi and, sure enough, there she was teetering on a high ledge...It seemed that the cause of her distress was the fact that Mike had jilted her the night before. ...Mike took one look at her, fled straight up the stairs and suddenly appeared at a window alongside the ledge... Nobody knows what Mike said but after what seemed like an Torrs Hotel with Woolworths on right around 1959 (sent by Harsh Maroo)
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JUBILEE ISSUE age, she relented and crawled back in through the window!” Torr’s had been built to offer an alternative to the more urbane Norfolk and New Stanley - the two watering holes for nouveau riche Europeans - those with money and king-size egos. Torr’s was for the hoi polloi - the soldiers, the just-arrived farmers, backpack tourists and journalists. Torr’s was the place for night gigs, the concerts, and being at the junction of Hardinge Street (now Kimathi) and Delamere (now Kenyatta) it always witnessed many accidents outside as speeding vehicles knocked down revellers. The police were forced at one point to put empty petrol drums to create “an island” that slowed down the drivers down until they got the right shape of the island according to William Foran in his biographical book, The Kenya Police 1887- 1960. Grogan turned the first floor lounge into the epic social centre of Nairobi in 1928 when he finally completed the structure. Constructed by firm of Henderson and Partners which also built Muthaiga Club, this build-
Torr's Hotel opened to the public in 1928
ing was unique and still stands out in Nairobi with its red-brick architectural form -- that intimidates the neighbouring structures for its beauty and elegance. Torr’s had a no-nonsense manager at one point. In his travel book, Feet First, Peter Finney writes: “Having no dinner jackets with us, we were relegated to a mezzanine section overlooking the main floor of Torr’s Hotel.” But there is a twist to the story of Torr’s. Its owner Grogan could not stand the idea of an African government and as the clamour for Independence gained mo-
mentum in 1959, he wound up Torrs Hotel Limited in Kenya Gazette Notice number 1240 of 1949. By the time he returned to South Africa, Grogan, who had low regards for Asians and Africans had acquired some 500,000 acres in Kenya. Today, the name Grogan is all history, but the Torr’s Hotel and its fine architecture remains - confidently housing a bank.
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THEN AND NOW
O
deon Cinema’s was built in the early 1950s. At its opening it was among 300 such Odeon cinemas around the world ran by Gaumont British Cinema after the founder of Odeon Cinemas Oscar Deutsch, died of Cancer in 1941. Odeon Cinemas was a large chain and its entry into Nairobi was an indicator that there was faith in the colony then. However before Odeon picked up as a business, the Mau Mau war broke out and the colonial elite who had been targeted started having doubts about their stay in Kenya. Odeon Cinema in Nairobi was one of the footholds in Africa. But to the settlers – and those who always associated Odeon to Oscar Deutsch, they thought the name Odeon was an acronym of “Oscar Deutch Entertains our Nation.” Source John Kamau for Business Daily
Moi Avenue in the 1970s and today
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THEN AND NOW
Above: City Market (Then called covered Market) in 1945s Right: A recent photo of city market
Above Left: The imposing GENERAL POST OFFICE (GPO) was built in 1906, after fire destroyed the town’s first post office in Victoria Street (Now known as Tom Mboya) in 1905 Above Right: GPO in the 1920s Left: A current photo of GPO now called Posta next to Teleposta Towers
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Two Sikhs pose infront of the Muslim gate welcoming Princess Margaret on Moi Avenue (then government road. Khoja Mosque is in the background 30
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Left: A gate in honor of Princess Margaret in 1956 Right: Masai warriors dancing on the streets of Nairobi in March 1950 when Nairobi became a City
Bottom Right: A photograph of some of the festivities infront of City hall on the day Nairobi became a city
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Nairobi’s Iconic Khoja Mosque James Wanzala for Standardmedia.co.ke
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t the junction of Nairobi’s Moi Avenue and the beginning of River Road, stands a three-storey iconic stone building. Many call it Khoja Mosque, but its actual name is Nairobi Town Jamatkhana, meaning “prayer house or mosque”. It was built by the Ismaili community led by the Aga Khan, the foundation stone of this mosque was laid in 32
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January 1920. Two years later in 1922, its construction was completed. The building of the mosque is credited for stimulating business growth around the area as many people started building business premises hence, the name Bazaar Street, which was later renamed Biashara Street. The building of the mosque was also significant for historical reasons. First, it was prominently situated at the city centre of colonial Nairobi. Its construction and opening made it a ‘high profile’ building for its time.
Secondly, it symbolised the permanent settlement of the Ismaili community in colonial Kenya. The foundation stone was laid on January 4, 1920 by the then HE The Ag Governor Sir Charles C Bowring while HE The Governor Major General Sir Edward Northey opened the building on January 14, 1922. Architectural work was done by K Virjee Nanji, stone works by Mistris–Gulmohamed, Govind Arjaan & Nathoo Carpenter Mistri-Rood Singh. While the stones were sourced locally, some of the wood fittings
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Khoja Mosque in the 1920s
may have been imported from India. “Khoja” commonly refers to Nizari Ismailis of Indo-Pakistani origin, but this can cause confusion because the 1866 and other secessionists also continued to call themselves Khojas. The mosque is gazetted as one of Kenya’s historical sites and monuments. Its exterior design of solid stone blocks makes it appear like a huge majestic palace with massive
front entrance doors and a huge clock on its dome. Its exterior and interior architecture consists of arcs on the ground floor and fair finished stone facing decorative motifs around the windows. The inside walls and pillars are painted with white and terracotta paints respectively. Potted flowers give the interior a magnificent touch, beauty
and ambiance than what someone could see from the almost nondescript exterior. The clock tower is an echo of British tradition. From a distance, the clock on the dome, would have been a point of reference for residents, passers-by and tradesmen in the 1920s.
Above: Khoja Mosque lit up in honor of princess Margaret’s visit in 1956 Right: Khoja mosque in the 1970s
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THEN AND NOW
All Saints Cathedral The history of the Anglicanism of Kenya goes back to 1844 when the first Anglican Missionaries arrived from the CMS (Church Mission Society). In 1921 St. Johns Church Nairobi located just off Jackson Road (currently parliament grounds) was moved to Pumwani. In replacement of St. John’s church, the Highland Cathedral/ Colonial Cathedral (All Saints Cathedral) and the St. Stephens Church Jogoo Road were started. The St. Stephen’s Church foundation stone was laid down by Mrs. Ernest Carr on 23rd June 1923.
Above: All Saints Cathedral in the 1930s when it was called the Colonial Cathedral Right: All Saints Cathedral today
Above: All Saints Cathedral in the 1960s Right: All Saints Cathedral today
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THEN AND NOW St. Andrews
Above: St Andrews Church in the 50s, before any iprovements were made. Right: Architectual drawing of the New Church in the 1950s, before the new building was constructed
The story of the Presbyterian Church of East Africa (PCEA) begins with a business company, when in 1889 Sir William Mackinnon and Mr. Alexander Low Bruce, made private plans for a Scottish Mission among the Kamba and Maasai and later to the Kikuyu people. In 1891, at the invitation of the late Sir William Mackinnon, Mr. A.L. Bruce and other directors of the Imperial British East Africa chartered Company, a band of Missionaries left London for British East Africa. St Andrews was a former constituent of the Overseas Presbytery of the Church of Scotland until the formation of the Presbyterian Church of East Africa in 1956. ISSUE 3 | KWEMA
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CITY OF MOMBASA M
ombasa has a population of about 1.5Million people. The city is said to have been founded around 900 A.D and was an already prosperous trading town in the 12th century, as the Arab geographer Al Idrisi mentions it in 1151. During the pre-modern period, Mombasa was an important centre for the trade in spices, gold, and ivory. Its trade links reached as far as India and China and oral historians today can still recall this period of local history. Indian history shows that there were trade links between Mombasa and Cholas of South India. Throughout the early modern period, Mombasa was a key node in the complex and far reaching Indian Ocean trading networks, its key exports then were ivory, millet, sesamum and coconuts. 1. A recent shot of Mombasa city from the Indian Ocean
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2. Kilindini road (Now Moi Avenue) in the 60s 3. Kilindini road 1970s 4. Old Kilindini road (late 1890s - ealy 1900s)
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Fort Jesus in 1900AD
(Left) The historic Regal Cinema in 1968 and (Right) in the 1970s. Regal Cinema completed in 1931- photo taken by Ameer janmohamed (owners of cinema)in 1968 from across Salim Road in front of Badrudin Sports House. This cinema was burnt and distroyed in 1985
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City House Mombasa, completed in 1958 replacing old building occupied by Motor Mart & Exchange. It was the first building incorporating an arcade and a fountain in the central courtyard: hence the restaurant being named FONTANELLA
A recent panaromic photograph of Mombasa Town
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The Mombasa tusks were erected in 1956 for the royal visit by Princess Margaret. Although meant as a temporary structure, people liked them so much that they stayed.
A 1950s photograph of the Catholic Church in Mombasa The Church is situated on the corner of Fort Jesus Road and Mbaraki Road, leading toward the Likoni Ferry.
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NAKURU T
he name ‘Nakuru’ is derived from Nakurro, the Maasai word meaning a “dusty place”. The history of Nakuru can perhaps be traced to the prehistoric period due to the archeological discoveries located about 8 km from the Central Business District at the Hyrax Hill reserve. Nakuru is Kenya’s 4th largest urban centre with a population of about 500,000. Nakuru was established by the British as part of the White highlands during the colonial era and it has continued growing into a cosmopolitan town. It received township status in 1904 and became a municipality in 1952. Today Nakuru is a small town that has agriculture, manufacturing and tourism as the backbone of its economy. The surrounding area is known for its vast agricultural potential with numerous small farms and vast agricultural enterprise. 1. A recent arial shot of Nakuru 2. Nakuru: Langa Langa circuit (now called Gilgil circuit). 3. Italian St Mary Church
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4. Flamingos in lake Nakuru
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Nakuru Main Street in 1940.
Nakuru General Post Office in the 1960s The Central Business Distric in Nakuru. This is kenyatta avenue with it’s signature gilani’s supermarket on the leftside. This was taken in the 1960s
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Another section of Kenyatta Avenue in the 1960s. As you can see there are no high buildings.
Right: an advertising feature of the attractive new railyway station in Nakuru was opened by the then Governor of Kenya, Sir Evelyn Baring (1952-1959). The picture at the top shows the exterior of the station as it appeared the day before the official opening ceremony. The picture below shows a section of the booking office on the left and the bar lounge on the first floor. Bottom: First train arriving at the station
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JUBILEE ISSUE Spectators at the Langa Langa circuit (now known as the Gilgil circuit) in Nakuru
A clipping of Nakuru Race track Langa Langa. The caption underneath reads: “Jim Russell speeds out of the hairpin bend in Nakuru on the way to breaking the lap record in his Ford Lotus-engined Brabham. The new record is 55.6 and is exactly two seconds faster than Gurbux Singh Sagoo’s best time. To achieve this extreemly quick lap, Russell touched 130 m.p.h at the end of the straight prior to breaking for Town Bend.”
Vintage cars on the Langa Langa circuit. Langa Langa was a 3.3 mile circuit improvised on roads within the Gilgil army base and was first used in March 1951. The Mau Mau uprising brought an end to activities in 1953 or 1954 because the army base became a major base of British troops.
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A recent aerial view of a growing Nakuru CBD.
Egerton Castle is a splendid architectural masterpiece that British nobleman Lord Maurice Egerton of Tatton built between 1930 and 1940 and still stands conspicuously like a pendant in the beautiful countryside, a dozen kilometres from Nakuru town. This is where Lord Egerton retreated in the final days of his life, the castle has 52 rooms.
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THEN AND NOW Bank Of India Nairobi
1904 A Corrugated iron shed on Government road (Now Moi Avenue).
1906 The first Stone building
1950 The present Bank premises built in 1931
Present bank premises in the 1970s and today. The twin Nation towers are in the background 46
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THEN AND NOW
The Stanley Hotel Nairobi
The first New Stanley on Victoria Street (Tom Mboya Avenue) in the late 1880s
The New Stanley was named after Welsh explorer Sir Henry Morton Stanley, he who tagged Africa as the “Dark Continent”. The New Stanley was initially situated on Victoria street, now Tom Mboya, Street. It was reconstructed after burning down in 1902 and reopened on Moi Avenue before owners Mayence Bent and husband Fred Tate bought a corner plot where it has stood since 1913. Now called The Sarova Stanley, the hotel
gradually gained a reputation as a stopover for travellers who fell head over suitcases for the Thorn Tree Café when it opened in 1961. The café’s single acacia tree became a popular notice board to leave notes, letters, and messages to fellow travellers. The original acacia was cut and replaced with a replica. The Sarova Group became the third owners when it bought the hotel from the Block family in 1978.
Below: The New Stanley under construction in 1912 Right: The Stanley on Delamere Avenue, between 1913 and 1932 before it underwent major reconstruction
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THEN AND NOW
Different angles of The Stanley Hotel in the 1920s
New Stanley before renovation in 1959 at the corner plot where it is currently located
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Left: The Stanley Hotel just after its last major rennovation in the 1959 Below: The Stanley Hotel today with a much changed skyline
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CITY OF KISUMU K
isumu City is has a population of about 500,000 people. Kisumu, in Dholuo means “a place to look for food.” or to “trade.” Kisumu was identified by the British explorers in early 1898 as an alternative railway terminus and port for the Uganda railway, then under construction. It was to replace Port Victoria, then an important centre on the caravan trade route, near the delta of River Nzoia. Kisumu was ideally located on the shores of Lake Victoria at the cusp of the Winam Gulf, at the end of the caravan trail from Pemba, Mombasa, Malindi and had the potential for connection to the whole of the Lake region by steamers. The first skeleton plan for Kisumu was prepared in July 1899, this included landing places and wharves along the northern lake shore, near the present day Airport Road. Demarcations for Government buildings and retail shops were also included in the plan. 1. An arial shot of Kisumu in the early 90s
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2. First Printing Press in Kisumu owned by Vithalji Harji Jobanputra in 1928 3. Kisumu Town Hall in the early 90s 4. Shot of a street in Kisumu in the early 70s.
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The Kisumu Clock Tower in 1944
The town clock stands in the middle of Oginga Odinga road (previously called main street). It was unveiled on 19 August 1938 by the then Governor and Commander-in-Chief of Kenya Chief Marshall Sir Robert Brooke Pophan. The Town Clock was built in memory of Kassim Lakha who arrived in East Africa in 1871 and died in Kampala in 1910. It was erected by his sons Mohamed, Alibhai, Hassan and Rahimtulla Kassim. Kisumu Clock Tower (Londiani Store and Morgan & Wood in the background) 52
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The Kisumu Clock tower between 1958 and 1962
The Kisumu Clock Tower in the 90s
A recent photograph of the tower. You can see that quite a lot of development has taken place since 1938 when it was unveiled. The building that hosted the Londiani Stores and Morgan & Wood in the 1940s is now used by Copy Cat printers.
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OTHER TOWNS IN KENYA Let’s take a look at how other smaller towns in Kenya looked 50 years ago and have been transformed into larger towns or cities. Pictures are from the following towns: Eldoret, Embu, Kisii, Kericho, Kiambu, Kakamega, Lamu, Nyeri, Gatundu and Nanyuki. 1. A recent photograph of the treetops lodge in Nyeri. In February 1952 Treetops became famous around the world when Princess Elizabeth, as she there found out about the death of her father King George VI. 2. Petrol Station in Fourteen Falls in the 1960s
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3. Central Highlands School Eldoret in the 1960s 4. Nyayuki Settlers Store in 1952
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Above: Photographs of Main Street in Eldoret taken in the 1960s Below: the same street in the 1980s
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Photograph of the KADU Headquarters in Eldoret A clipping showing one of the dukas in Embu, in the 1960s. Hanging on bars outside of the store is a huge array of beads.
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Photograph of main street in Kisii. Taken in 1966
Photographs of Kiambu in 1960s. Above we have the settlers store and to the right a store that sold Unga (Maize meal flour). 58
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Lamu (date unkonwn)
Kakamega Clock Tower in 1944 The British developed Kakamega for defensive purposes in 1903, and by 1920 it had become the district headquarters. The discovery of gold in 1931 brought an influx of settlers and greatly increased the town’s population, Industrial products include processed food, clothing, and footwear. ISSUE 3 | KWEMA
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Osman Allu Shop in Nyeri in the 1930s
The same Osman Allu shop in the 1990s
Main street in Kericho in the 1970s
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Gatundu village shop in the 1950s Photograph of a settlers store in Nanyuki. Nanyuki is the only town in Kenya where there is a law banning female donkeys. In 1949 Nyayuki was was then a major hub for European colonial settlers. It is said that a white lady came out of the Settler’s Store at Nanyuki with her purchase in a basket. She saw a male and a female donkey engaging in a mating exercise and as she watched the animals she collapsed. It was quite embarrassing as “natives� passing by witnessed this drama. The disgusting matter reached the ears of the authorities and action came within no time.
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THEN AND NOW
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KPCU
Basking In Its Past Glory KPCU construction was completed in 1978, launched February 21 1978. the building was built as a symbol of strength of the co-operative movement. Coffee is perhaps among the earliest cash crops planted in Kenya. The first piantation was established by the Scottish Million at Kibwezi in 1893 and subsequenly abandoned when the mission moved to Kikuyu. The growing of coffee had expanded enormously by 1909 when the exports totaled eight-and-.a-half tons, compared with 1975/76 figures which reached a staggering 74,596 tons worth £84,503,815. At the time of the opening of KPCU building coffee was, by a wide margin, the most valuable of Kenya’s exports, providing the country with about 30 per cent of the total foreign exchage earnings. Until about 1935, the coffee industry was the preserve of Europeon settlers. The production of coffee had developed as an estate and indigenous Kenyanshad not been allowed to plant the crop. African growers started as small holders and had their farming activities strictly controlled by the department of Agriculture. The African growers established their own co-operativesocieties immediately they started planting the crop.
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Parliament Building 1963 Amyas Connell and Thornley Dyer (TRIAD Architects) were asked to design the new Legislative buildings for the British Administration in 1963. After Independence the Legislative buildings were renamed New Parliament Buildings. A difficult design problem arose with the Administrators who were looking forward to a miniature version of the Palaces of Westminster set in the centre of Nairobi. Connell had to respect their views and eventually provided a miniature version of the Big Ben Clock Tower - although when completed it was the highest structure in Nairobi. Later additions included the new Assembly Chamber, fitted neatly on to the first stage building and reverting to Connell’s interest in Corbusian design.
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Rajni Shah with cricketer friends with the Parliament House in early stages (early 1950's)
Parliament in the late 1960s and below Parliament grounds today
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THEN AND NOW
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heatre Royal (later known as the Cameo Cinema) next to Bank of India building on left on Delamere Avenue around 1920's (sent by Robin Grayson) On the right you can see the same Obelix (monument) in front of the old Bank Of India building before the new building was built in 1931
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ot much transformation in Old Town Mombasa Left: Old town in the 1950s Center: Old town in the 1990s Right: A recent photo of old town 66
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Then AND NOW:
The McMillan Library
Above: The McMillan Library with the Jamia Mosque in the 1940's Right: How the McMillian library looks today, Jamia Mosque (hidden partialy behind the trees) and several new buildings in the background
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he McMillan library was opened by the then governor, Sir Joseph Byrne, on June 15, 1931 and bequeathed to the people of Nairobi in memory of philanthropists Lord William Northrop Macmillan and wife Lucie. Nairobi City Council took it over in 1962. Up the rail-less marble staircase and inside the church-like door are more than 270,000 volumes of books, parliamentary archives, and the Africana section that has some of the rarest books, journals, and periodicals
dating back to 1906. In his will, Lord Macmillan, who had employed nationalist Tom Mboya’s father, Leonard Ndiege as a supervisor on his Juja Ranch, desired to be buried at the top of Mt Kilimambogo. His 32-room decrepit castle near Fourteen Falls, which hosted wife-swapping parties besides serving as a jailhouse during World War II, was gazetted as a monument in 2008.
Cameo Cinema
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he Cameo Cinema is situated opposite the Sarova Stanley, and between Bank of India (on the left) and the former Torrs Hotel (brown brick building on the right now CFC Stanbic). Its Verandah Bar was for the longest time the only joint in Nairobi with a pool table before they flooded pub floors. It has since hosted K’Osewe’s restaurant, a church, and now the Sunrise Casino. Cameo was built in 1912 as the Theatre Royal when John Ainsworth was Kenya’s Chief Native Commissioner who oversaw the planting of blue gum trees in Nairobi besides musing up Nairobi City Council’s impossible bylaws.
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THEN AND NOW Old Pc’s office
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quatting forlornly at the junction of Uhuru Highway and Kenyatta Avenue, Nairobi, right under Nyao House (Picture on the right) this structure was built in 1913, the year Molonket Olokorinya ole Sempele, the first Kenyan to travel abroad for further studies, returned from an American bible college in Virginia. Nairobi then was a supply depot and basic camp of tin and wooden dwellings for Indian coolies constructing the Kenya-Uganda railway, who called it “Mile 327”.
The settlers nicknamed the Old PC’s Office “Hatches, Matches, and Dispatches” as it was where records for births, marriages, and deaths were kept. Its colonial cobwebs were dusted off when it was spruced up in 2003, the brown coat of varnish giving it a respectable archaic look, a metaphor of its quaint past. In January 2006, the Old PC’s Office was renamed the Nairobi Gallery that now hosts temporary public exhibitions. To hew a historical stone, the Nairobi Gallery, now under the National Museums, is a pointer to the evolution of architecture and history of the city — Kenya too. Info From the National Museums of Kenya
Kipande House
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cross the road from the Old PC’s Office Kipande House which originally functioned as a warehouse used by coolies. Today it is used as a banking hall by KCB. Designed by Gurdit Singh, the one-storey affair that still sports its ubiquitous quirky tower was Kenya’s tallest building until City Hall was opened in 1935, starring a 165ft tower clock.
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THEN AND NOW Left: The over pass from Ngara, over Globe Cinema & the Nairobi River and into the CBD taken early 2013. Bottom Left: View from Ngara Hill going towards the Khoja Mosque (1990s). Bottom Right: Grogan Road overlooking the Nairobi River from Ngara top 1955.
A Brief History of Nairobi’s Old Buildings Nairobi’s old buildings, like time, appear as if they have always been there. Some are now national monuments based on their architectural design, age, historical significance, location, condition, and ownership. Among gazetted national treasures include the Old PC’s Office, Kipande House, Bank of India Building along Kenyatta Avenue, and McMillan Memorial Library on Wabera Street. Moi Avenue has four buildings that were declared national monuments on December 12, 1996 — the IBEA Building, which was built in 1919 as the headquarters of the Imperial British East African Company, but
currently houses the Hertz Restaurant, Victoria House (1924), Imperial Chambers, Royal House (1914), and the Kenya National Archives (1931). Tom Mboya Street had the Old Desai Memorial Hall, which was demolished in 1994. Mfangano Street has the Rahimtulla Library while Kimathi Street has Elite House (1912). Add too the Railway headquarters and the High Court buildings which for two years from 1932 served as the seat of the British Secretariat of the British provincial administration. Source: Daily Nation
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NAI
TALlES
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airobi’s history of towers began with the Hilton Nairobi (1969), the NSSF Building (1973), and the Kenyatta International Conference Centre in 1974. Buildings in the city remained 70
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unimpresively short in the city until the late 1960s when the city experienced its first skyscraper boom. From 1960 to 1980, Nairobi witnessed a major expansion of skyscraper and high-rise
construct office tow this perio Bank Tow in buildin this expa experienc
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tion. Many of the city’s wers were completed during od, such as the New Central wer. A near twenty-year lull ng construction came after ansion, though Nairobi has ced a smaller second
building expansion beginning in the late 1990s and continuing into the present. With a rapidly growing economy and investor confidence back, we are beginning to see an increase in the developent of commerical units. ISSUE 3 | KWEMA
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1. Times Tower
Height140 m (460 ft) Floors Above ground: 38 Completed in: 2000 The Times Tower, also known as the New Central Bank Tower, is the tallest tower in East and Central Africa. It was opened in 2000 by the then President of Kenya Daniel Arap Moi. The building has an office tower, 7-storey banking complex an 11-split storey car park, and is served by 10 elevators. The building is designed to resist earthquakes, and is set on a concrete raft varying in thickness from 0.9 to 3 m (3.0 to 9.8 ft). The banking wing is a four-storey block with the offices and banking hall
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2. Teleposta Towers designed around a central atrium space. The carpark to the rear accommodates 350 cars and has direct access into the main building. The typical office floor area is 730 square metres. The curtain wall details to the tower have been designed to minimise solar heat gain, and the windows designed to shut out noise from the busy Nairobi streets below.
Height: 120 m (390 ft) Floors Above ground 27 Completed in 2000 Teleposta is Nairobi’s second largest building and is home to the Ministry of Information and Communications, Ministry of Trade and Telcom Kenya. The building is owned by Teleposta Pension Scheme Fund (with 13,000 members) and was advertised for sale in September 2013. The Government has be granted priority among prospective buyers because it is the largest tenant. The decision to sell the building was informed by the fact that the pension scheme closed its doors to new members since the giant Kenya Posts and Telecommunication Corporation was disintegrated into smaller firms.
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3. KICC
Height: 105.m Floors: 32 (above ground) Completed in 1974
from round shaped traditional African home. It cost Sh9 million when President Kenyatta opened the 32-storey building in 1973.
from 1975 to date.
The KICC view tower/ helipad gives delegates a unique panoramic view of Nairobi city in 360 degrees. The building’s revolvThe Kenyatta InterConstruction was com- ing restaurant at the national Conference pleted in 1973, with 27th floor of KICC is Centre, locally known the opening ceremony under renovation and as the “KICC” was occurring in September will soon be back in commissioned by Mzee 1973 presided over by operation. Jomo Kenyatta, the President Kenyatta.The 1st President of the 30-storey land mark of Republic of Kenya, in Kenya’s skyline was 1967. built in 1969 and the only building in the KICC was designed by region with a helipad. Norwegian architect Karl Hendrik Nostorik KICC has hosted in 1967 as an inspired several important ISSUE 3 | KWEMA design that borrowed regional conferences
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4. Social Security House/ NSSF Height: (tip) 103.72 m (338 ft) Floors: (above ground) 28 Completed in: 1973
NSSF (National Social Security Fund) helps to provide social security protection to workers in the formal and informal sectors. They register members, receive their contributions, manage funds of the scheme, process and ultimately pay out benefits to eligible members or dependants. The NSSF has several investments in real estate both residential and commercial. There are plans to build the
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Hazina Trade Center, which will be the tallest building in East and Central Africa at 185 m (607 ft). And a few years later build an even biiger building the NSSF Convention Centre which will stand tall at 240 m (790 ft).
5. KCB Towers
Height: 100.00 m Floors: (above ground) 23 Completed in 2014 The new headquarters for the Kenya Commercial Bank will house a state of the art banking hall, personal banking facilities, administrative offices and conference facilities for meetings, conventions and workshops.
The building will provide 800SQM of office space per level, which is approximately 171,800 square feet of total rentable office space and enough parking for about 450 vehicles. The hard Upper Hill bed rock provided the biggest challenge during the early months of the construction works. This called for ingenious ideas in recovering lost time. The use of a precast concrete waffle floor system coupled with 24hour working days ensured speedier construction, with a floor completed in every 10 days.
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LAND FOR SALE
Thika Prime 50x100 Plot behing Thika Sports Club (KES 2Million).
Konza Technology Park 2 acre commercial plots ranging from KES 3 - 6 Million shillings depending on proximity from Mombasa raod. 10.8 acre plots adjacent to the 2 acre commercial plots. KES 6 - 9 Million also depending on proximity to Mombasa Road.
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6. I&M Building
Height: 99.01m Height: (roof) 81.69 m Floors: (above ground) 18 Construction end: 2001 The I&M tower is the main headquarters for I&M Bank Limited (I&M Bank), In the past, the building also served as the headquarters of the Standard Group, which includes The Standard newspaper and Kenya Television Network station. The building hosts two Safaricom customer care stores. I&M Bank was founded in 1974 as a financial services company and later converted to a commercial bank. I&M Bank shares begun to be publicly traded in the Nairobi Stock Exchange in June 2013. This took place through the acquisition of its entire shareholding by I&M Holdings Ltd, a publicly listed company.
7. Nyayo House
Height: 84 m (276 ft) Floors above ground: 27 Completion date:1982 Planning of the tower started in 1973 and it was initially set to be named as Nairobi House. Construction started in 1979, one year after Daniel arap Moi took over as the president of Kenya. Nyayo House is particularly known for its detention facilities in its basement, often called as “Nyayo House torture chambers.�
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8. Cooperative Bank House
Height 83 m (272 ft) Floors above ground: 25 Completion date: 1981 Cooperative Bank House was at one time nicknamed the “Bell Bottom House” as it resembles the “flare” trousers that were popular in the 1970s. It was constructed by Solel Boneh International, Israel’s largest construction conglomeratein the late 1970s. The 27-storey building survived the 1998 terrorist bombing of the American embassy in Nairobi. While structures around it were reduced to rubble, Bell Bottom, broken windows and all, stood in stone-faced defiance against the air and ground shock wave coupled with dynamic pressure and
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the one-tonne bomb’s effect on its structure. Cooperative Bank reoccupied it after renovations were completed in 2002.
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9. Rahimtulla Tower Height: 80 m (260 ft) Floors above ground: 18 Completion date: 1999
Rahitulla Tower is the second tallest building in the Upper Hill (after the KCB Bank tower set to be completed early 2014). The tower is a reinforced concrete structure, and clad with blue-tinted glass and white louvre tiles. The tower has twenty-two (22) storeys, including a double floor-height lobby, plus two (2) basement floors. It is 16 storeys smaller than the New Central Bank Tower, the tallest building in the country.[citation needed]. The building is capped by a 30 metre high mast, for television and radio communication. The main tenants are AfricaOnline, PriceWaterhouseCoopers and Dhanush InfoTech.
10. Anniversary Towers
Height: 79.86 m Floors: (above ground) 26 Construction end: 1992 Beautifully finished in mosaic tiles and tinted glass cladding, Anniversary Towers boasts of high speed lifts and is served by a standby generator and it is connected to mains for all services. There are two basement parking
levels providing ample and secure parking space for the tenants. A wide variety of tenants can be found in the building including government departments, embassies and other institutions. The favourite San Valencia Restaurant is to be found in this building, Rialto Fashions and other elegant shops and arcades.
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Kwema Realtors Wishes You A Merry Christmas 84
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AND A PROSPEROUS 2014!! ISSUE 3 | KWEMA
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