Dear Woodworker:
Thank you for your purchase and welcome to the Laguna Tools group of discriminating woodworkers. I understand that you have a choice of where to purchase your machines and appreciate the confidence you have in our products. Every machine sold by Laguna Tools has been carefully designed and well thought through from a woodworker’s perspective. I cut on our bandsaws, lathes, table saws and combination machines. Through my hands-on experience, I work hard to make our machines better. I strive to give you machines that inspire you to create works of art. Machines that are a joy to run and work on. Machines that encourage your performance. Today, we offer high-performance machines with innovative solutions that meet the needs of woodworkers and their everevolving craft. I started Laguna Tools as a woodworker; I still am. Thank you again for becoming a Laguna Tools customer.
Torben Helshoj President and Founder – Laguna Tools Thriving on Innovation
2
Table of contents
Safety Rules
Page number 4
Limited warranty
5
Noise emission
6
Specification sheet
6
Receiving your machine
8
Introduction to Table Saws
8
Parts of the machine
9
Where to locate your machine
13
Unpacking your machine
13
What you will receive with the machine
14
Assembly and setup
14
Using and adjusting the machine
52
Maintenance and troubleshooting
57
Electrical drawing
67
3
Safety Rules As with all machinery, there are certain hazards involved with the operation and use. Using it with caution will considerably lessen the possibility of personal injury. However, if normal safety precautions are overlooked or ignored, personal injury to the operator may result. If you have any questions relative to the installation and operation, do not use the equipment until you have contacted your supplying distributor. Read the following carefully before operating the machine: 1. Keep the working area clean and be sure adequate lighting is available. 2. Do not wear loose clothing, gloves, bracelets, necklaces or ornaments. Wear face, eye, respiratory and body protection devices as indicated for the operation or environment. 3. Be sure that the power is disconnected from the machine before tools are serviced or an attachment is to be fitted or removed. 4. Never leave the machine with the power on. 5. Do not use dull, gummy or cracked cutting tools. 6. Be sure that the keys and adjusting wrenches have been removed and all the nuts and bolts are secured.
4
Limited Warranty New woodworking machines sold by Laguna Tools carry a one-year warranty from the date of shipping. Laguna Tools guarantees all new machines sold to be free of manufacturer’s defective workmanship, parts and materials. We will repair or replace, without charge, any parts determined by Laguna Tools, Inc., to be a manufacturer's defect. We require the defective item/part to be returned to Laguna Tools. In the event the item/part is determined to be damaged due to lack of maintenance, cleaning or misuse/abuse, the customer will be responsible for the cost to replace the item/part, plus all related shipping charges. This limited warranty does not apply to natural disasters, acts of terrorism, normal wear and tear, product failure due to lack of maintenance or cleaning, damage caused by accident, neglect, lack of or inadequate dust collection, or misuse/abuse or damage caused when repair or alterations have been made or attempted by others. Laguna Tools, Inc., is not responsible for additional tools or modifications sold or performed (other than from/by Laguna Tools, Inc.) on any Laguna Tools, Inc., woodworking machine. Warranty may be voided upon the addition of such noted tools and/or modifications, determined on a case-by-case basis. Normal user alignment, adjustment, tuning and machine settings are not covered by this warranty. It is the responsibility of the user to understand basic woodworking machinery settings and procedures and to properly maintain the equipment in accordance with the standards provided by the manufacturer. Parts, under warranty, are shipped at Laguna Tools, Inc’s, cost either by common carrier, FedEx Ground service or a similar method. Technical support to install replacement parts is primarily provided by phone, fax or e-mail. The labor required to install replacement parts is the responsibility of the user. Laguna Tools is not responsible for damage or loss caused by a freight company or other circumstances not in our control. Only new machines sold to the original owner are covered by this warranty. For warranty repair information, call 1-800-332-4094. Copyright 2010 Laguna Tools, Inc ** Warning – no portion of these materials may be reproduced without written approval from Laguna Tools, Inc. All documentation subject to change without notice
5
Noise emission. Notes concerning noise emission: Given that there exists a relationship between noise level and exposure times, it is not precise enough to determine the need for supplementary precautions. The factors affecting the true level of exposure to operators are clearly the amount of time exposed, the characteristics of the working environment, other sources of dust and noise, etc. For example, adjacent machines, in other words, affect the level of ambient noise. It is possible that exposure level limits will vary from country to country. Specification sheet. 12-inch machine Table saw Blade capacity Spindle diameter Blade speed Blade tilt Max depth of cut Scoring blade Spindle diameter Blade speed Motor Table size Rear table size Cross cutting table Dust port diameter Planer Table size Max height Max depth of cut Motor Cutter head Cutter speed Feed rate Dust port
12 inch 5/8 inch 4500 rpm 90 to 45 degrees 3.9 inches (100mm) at 90 degrees 3.15 (80mm) inches at 45 degrees 3.9 inches (100mm) 20 mm 8500 rpm 3000 W 3 phase 220 volts 34 inches x 12 inches 12 inches x 20 inches 24 inches x 19 inches 4 inches
21 inches x 12 inches (540mm x 305mm) 8.8 inches (225mm) 0.8 inches (2mm) 3000 W 3 phase 220 volts Tec cutter head 70 carbide knives 4800 rpm 19 f/min 4-inch diameter 6
Jointer Table size Max width Max depth of cut Dust port Fence tilt Mortiser Spindle speed Table size
54.3 inches x 12 inches (1380mm x 310mm) 12 inches (310mm) 0.16 inches (4mm) 4-inch diameter 90 to 45 degrees
Vertical stroke Lateral stroke Table vertical travel Tool diameter Motor
4800 rpm 19.7 inches x 8.3 inches (500mm x 210mm) 0 to 5.5 inches (0 to 140mm) 0 x 5 inches (0 x 125mm) 0 to 5.5 inches (0 to 140mm) 0.625 inches (16mm) 3000 W 220 volts 3 phase
Shaper Spindle diameter Spindle travel Max cutter diameter Motor Spindle speed Dust port
0.75 inches (19mm) 3.9 inches (100mm) 7.9 inches (200mm) 2800 W 220 volts 3 phase 1800, 3000, 6000, 9000 rpm 4-inch diameter
Total weight
1200 lbs net, 1340 lbs gross (545 kg net, 610 kg gross)
7
Receiving your machine. Note. It is probable that your machine will be delivered by a third party. Before you unpack your new machine, you will need to first inspect the packing, invoice and shipping documents supplied by the driver. Ensure that there is no visible damage to the packing or the machine. You need to do this prior to the driver leaving. All damage must be noted on the delivery documents and signed by you and the delivery driver. You must then contact the seller (Laguna Tools) within 24 hours.
Packaged machine Introduction to combination machines. Note. This manual covers machines with various sliding table lengths. Some of the shorter sliding tables do not come with support legs or support extensions. Some of the items that are covered by this manual may be optional extras. This combination machine is designed to give you years of safe service. Read this owner’s manual in its entirety before assembly or use. The machine is a compact one-stop shop with the following functions: table saw, jointer, planer, shaper and mortiser all built into one machine.
8
Parts of the machine.
12
10
8
11
9
13 9
7
1
2
6
4
5
3
14 Parts of the machine. 1. Sliding table. 2. Support table. 3. Table saw fence. 4. Blade angle adjustment handle. 5. Blade guard. 6. Mobility kit. 7. Clamp. 8. Jointer/planer dust chute. 9. Mortiser unit. 10. Blade vertical adjustment handle. 10
11. Planer. 12. Jointer. 13. Body. 14. Shaper. 1. Sliding table. The sliding table is manufactured from heavy-duty aluminum extrusion and is attached to the cabinet. The table is adjustable to be level and vertical. The table is supported by ball bearings that roll on polished flat plates. The advantage of the bearing system is that there is only one point contact between the balls and the plates. This virtually eliminates the problem of dirt building up, and the sliding table will remain accurate for many years. 2. Support table. The support table is a welded construction and is attached to the side of the sliding table. It can be moved along the sliding table to suit the job at hand. It is adjustable vertically and for parallelism to the sliding table. 3. Table saw fence. The table saw fence is adjustable along an extension rail, which is attached to the side of the main table. The fence is designed to give superior rigidity and is adjustable to be parallel to the blade. 4. Blade angle adjustment handle. The blade angle adjustment handle is located at the front of the cabinet and adjusts the blade angle from 90 to 45 degrees. 5. Blade guard. The blade guard is attached to the riving knife and has a dust extraction hose fitted. 6. Mobility kit. The 3-wheel mobility kit attaches to the side of the machine. 7. Sliding table clamp. The table clamp is attached to the sliding table “T” slot. It can be adjusted along the length of the “T” slot to suit the job. 11
It is a heavy steel construction and is vertically adjustable. The clamp action is over center cam. 8. Jointer/planer dust chute. The jointer/planer dust port is part of the cutter guard and will take a 4-inch dust hose. You will need a dust collection system with a minimum of 1,000 cubic feet per minute (the stronger the better). 9. Mortiser unit. The mortiser is a heavy cast iron construction that is located on the back of the machine. 10. Blade vertical adjustment handle. The blade vertical adjustment handle is located at the side of the machine. It is locked in position with a clamp screw. 11. Planer. The planer is a heavy construction and has a cast iron table. 12. Jointer. The jointer has long cast iron tables to ensure that the jobs are produced flat and accurate. 13. Body. The body of the machine is a welded construction from heavy-gauge steel plate. The heavy construction gives the machine a stable base that is less susceptible to vibration. 14. Shaper. The four-speed (1800, 3000, 6000, 9000 rpm) shaper has a heavy, fully adjustable fence/guard system that allows the full range of cutters to be used safely.
12
Where to locate your machine. Before you remove your machine from the pallet, select the area where you will use your machine. There are no hard-and-fast-rules for its location, but below are a few guidelines: 1. There should be an area surrounding the machine suitable for the length of wood that you will be cutting. 2. Adequate lighting. The better the lighting, the more accurately and safely you will be able to work. 3. Solid floor. You should select a solid, flat floor, preferably concrete or something similar. 4. Locate close to power source and dust collection. 5. Allow an area for the storage of blanks and cut jobs. Unpacking your machine. 1. Dismantle the box and lift the box off the pallet. 2. Using the knife, cut the plastic wrap. 3. Remove all the parts that have been packed with the machine. 4. Remove the machine from the pallet with a forklift. Note. If you have any doubt about the described procedure, seek professional assistance. Do not attempt any procedure that you feel is unsafe or that you do not have the physical capability of achieving. Cleaning the machine. Remove the rust protection grease with WD 40 or a similar solvent. It is important that you remove all the grease and re-lubricate with a Teflon-based lubricant. Teflon has less tendency to attract sawdust and cause clogging. You should also wax the table, as this also protects the cast iron from rust and reduces friction.
13
What you will receive with the machine.
Support table
Mortiser unit 14
10
9
11 18 19
29
30
8
7
12 21
20
31
6
5
13 22
32
23
4
14 24 25
3
2
15 26
16 27
1
17 28
33
15
34
35
36
37
38
1. Table support arm. 2. Blade guard. 3. Push stick. 4. Jointer guard. 5. Shaper fence. 6. Sliding table stop. 7. Fence flip stop. 8. Sliding table support. 9. Jointer/planer cutter head guard. 10 Sliding table support legs. 11. Fence. 12. Fence sliding table. 13. Mortiser control handle. 14. Cross cut fence. 15. Jointer guard arm. 16. Dust hose support. 17. Straight line shoe. 18. Jointer handle. 19. Mortiser clamp handles. 20. Saw throat plates. 21 Sliding table clamp. 22. Saw guard dust hose. 23. Scoring shims. 16
24. Mortiser chuck. 25. Sanding drum. 26. Fence arm. 27. Mortiser clamp. 28. Tools. 29. Mortiser chuck guard. 30. Handles. 31. Miter gauge. 32. Jointer fence. 33. Mobility handle. 34. Shaper guard. 35. Table side support. 36. Mobility wheels. 37. Fence support. 38. Table support left hand. Assembly and setup. Fitting the mobility kit. Wheel vertical adjustment
Mobility kit handle
Mortiser adjustment handle
Offset mobility wheel
17
Fit the mobility wheels to the side of the machine as shown with the bolts provided. Note. Ensure that the correct wheels are located in the correct positions. To adjust the wheels down, loosen the locking bolt and rotate the adjuster until the machine is raised off the ground. Note. Never operate the machine with the mobility wheels contacting the ground, as this could be dangerous. Locking bolt Fitting the mortiser C wrench
Allen wrench
Nut
Mortis chuck guard key
Allen
Blanking plug
18
To remove the nut on the end of the cutter spindle, loosen the Allen screw in the nut. Clamp the spindle with the C wrench and remove the nut. Fit the mortiser chuck to the spindle of the jointer/planer. Note. The spindle thread is left-handed. Tighten the Allen screw in the chuck neck. Fit the chuck guard with four Allen screws. Remove the blanking plug prior to fitting a cutter. The chuck is adjusted to suit the various sizes of cutter by fitting an Allen key through the hole in the top of the guard.
Clamping studs and nuts
Clamping stud and nut
View inside the planer Lower fixing bolt Loosen the two nuts on the side of the machine. Loosen the lock nut on the inside of the planer. Lower the mortiser onto the two clamping studs and loosely tighten the nuts. Screw the lower fixing bolt into the thread on the mortiser. 19
Tighten the two lock nuts. Tighten the two upper clamp nuts.
Parallel steel rod Parallel block The mortiser table may need to be adjusted parallel to the mortiser chuck. Fit a parallel steel rod into the chuck and tighten. Check that the table is parallel by sliding a parallel block under the parallel rod at one end and adjusting the table vertically until the rod just touches the block. Move the block to the other end of the rod and check the clearance between the block and the rod. Adjust the table parallel to the steel rod by loosening the two locking nuts and adjusting the screw (lower bolt). Once the table is parallel, tighten the two lock nuts.
20
Clamp assembled Clamp Clamp shaft Fit the clamp shaft to the table and secure with the nut and washer. Note. The clamp has two holes to allow it to cover the table. Fit the adjusting handle through the top bearing and into the bottom bearing.
Clamping screw Adjusting handle Remove the clamping screw. Fit the vertical adjusting handle through the top bearing and into the bottom support. Secure with the clamping screw.
21
Controls of the mortiser. Dowel drilling. Index pin
Pitch selection
Clamp Index drilling barrel The machine is provided with dowel drilling for 16mm, 20mm, 22mm and 25mm pitches. To select the pitch required, retract the index pin and twist so that it is not engaged in the barrel holes. Loosen the clamp and twist until the required pitch is in line with the index pin. Release the index pin and check that it is line with the hole in the barrel. Tighten the clamp. Ensure that the index pin will engage and disengage freely. Depth stop
Vertical gauge
Vertical clamp
22
Clamp
Side stops Switches
Movement control handle
Vertical control handle Miter gauge
Note. All the emergency stop switches latch when pressed. The machine will not start until all the emergency switches have been reset. To reset the emergency stop switch, twist until the switch pops out. Prior to starting the mortiser, set the planer feed control handle in the neutral position (up).
Feed control handle
23
Jointer/Planer
Clamp removed Locator Clamping knob Loosen the clamp knob and remove the clamp. Fitting the jointer guard.
Clamp screw View from under side Vertical adjusting screw Jacking screws Fit the guard arm to the side of the table with the clamp screw. Note. Two jacking screws are provided to adjust the guard parallel to the cutter head. The guard comes factory set, but should adjustment be required, loosen the lock nuts and adjust the screws in or out, depending on the adjustment required, then retighten the lock nuts.
24
Note. Only adjust the jack screws with the clamp screw loose. Guard Clamping screw
Angle adjusting screw
Guard arm Vertical adjusting screw With the clamp screw loose, slide the guard into the aluminum holder and clamp in position. To adjust the fence arm vertically, turn the vertical adjusting screw. To adjust the angle of the guard, turn the angle adjusting screw. Fitting the jointer fence. Fence clamp bar
Fence Support
Support bar
Fence Fence clamp handles Fit the fence support by lifting the lateral clamp handle and gently sliding onto the support bar.
25
Loosen the fence clamp handles and slide the fence onto the fence clamp bar. Once assembled, clamp the fence clamp handles. The fence is adjustable vertically to suit the angle to which the fence is set.
Cutter guard Lateral clamp handle Slide the cutter guard into the back “T� slot and clamp in position with the screws provided. Ensure that the guard completely covers the cutter head. Should the fence be adjusted laterally, always adjust the position of the guard to ensure that no part of the cutter head is exposed. Fitting the jointer table handle. Fit the side handle to the side of the jointer table.
Jointer table side handle
26
Jointer/planer controls. Table vertical control handle Table height gauge Emergency stop button
Start/stop switches
Feed control handle Planer table lock Fence clamps Angle clamp
Guard angle adjuster
Guard height adjuster
Fence lateral movement clamp
27
Jointer table height adjuster Converting from jointer to planer. Table lock
Table in open position
Dust chute in planer position
1. Release the out-feed table lock and lift the table. 2. Release the in-feed table lock and lift the table. 3. Lift the dust collection chute and move to the position shown above. Note. When the dust chute is in the planer position, its shaft activates a micro switch. This is a safety device, and if the micro switch is not activated, the jointer will not start. Note. When the dust chute is locked in the jointer position, it activates a micro switch. This is a safety device, and if the micro switch is not activated, the machine will not start. 28
Dust chute micro switch
Safety lever Safety micro switch Safety lever lifted When the jointer tables are in the vertical position, the safety lever and micro switch engage. To lower the tables, lift the safety lever. Note. When you lower the tables to the jointer position, ensure that you lock the tables. Never operate the jointer with the tables unlocked.
29
Fitting the sliding table. Note. Table supports only supplied for the longer sliding tables.
Fixing screws Left-hand table support Right-hand table support Remove the back panel off the table supports. Fit the table supports to the side of the machine with the fixing screws. Re-fit the back panel. Note. If your machine is supplied with a small sliding table, it will not require the table supports.
Machine with no table supports
Machine with table supports
30
Sliding table lock Sliding table View from underside lock fitted of the sliding table Fit the sliding table lock and lock the table. This will stop the table from sliding while you are fitting it to the machine. If the stop is not fitted and locked, it could be dangerous, as the sliding table will move as you lift it and could cause injury or cause you to drop it. Loosen the table support bolts and remove one nut and one washer from each of the four bolts. Place the washers above the slots in the table support (or the slots in the machine for short sliding tables). Move the support bolts so that they are approximately in line with the slot centers and are equal distant from the ends of the sliding table. Sliding table support bolts
View with blanking plug removed Blanking plug Note. You will require at least three people to assemble the sliding table (two to lift, and one to line up the bolts).
31
Note: If you have any doubt about the described procedure, seek professional assistance. Do not attempt any procedure that you feel is unsafe or that you do not have the physical capability of achieving. Lift the sliding table and position with the bolts above the slots. Fine adjust the position of the bolts so that they line up with the slots and lower the sliding table onto the machine. Ensure that the washers are between the nuts and the machine. Fit the nuts and washers to the underside but do not fully tighten. Move the sliding table so that it is central on the machine. Tighten the nuts that clamp the bolts to the table. Saw table
Sliding table Straight edge Gap between sliding table and saw table The sliding table now has to be adjusted to the main saw table. Adjust the gap between the sliding table edge and the main table. The distance is not important, and it is suggested that you use two washers (one at each end) in the gap and slide the sliding table up to the washers. Fine adjustment is detailed later in the manual. Once adjusted, nip the nuts under the machine. Do not fully tighten, as the sliding table now has to be adjusted level to the main table. Adjusting the sliding table level with the main table. Using a straight edge, check that the sliding table is level with the main table. (The main table should be 0 inches to 0.004 inch lower than the sliding table.) 1. Loosen the lock nuts on the support bolts that clamp the sliding table to the machine. 2. Adjust the nuts above the machine either up or down depending on the adjustment required. 3. Tighten the lock nuts.
32
4. Recheck for level. Note. Check both ends of the table for level. Note. Adjust one end of the table at a time. Note. Unless the sliding table is tilted to the main table, adjust both the same amount. Sliding table adjustment for parallel with the saw blade. The table must run parallel with the saw blade. The gap between the edge of the sliding table and the table is not important. To check if the table is running true, clamp a piece of wood (1 inch x 1 inch or 2 inches x 2 inches) to the table. Cut the wood slowly. The teeth of the saw blade should make contact with the front and the back of the blade evenly. If the table is not cutting parallel, adjust as follows. Note. Only adjust one end of the sliding table. Note. This adjustment may be easer to complete with the miter gauge and clamp fitted (covered later in the manual). 1. Loosen three of the sliding table clamp nuts (ones under the machine). 2. Move the sliding table either in or out, depending on the error, and retighten the nuts. 3. Recheck if the table is running parallel as described earlier and readjust if required. Note. It is recommended that adjustments be carried out in small increments, and you will find that it is quicker to use small adjustments rather than trying to adjust in one big step.
33
Fitting the support legs.
Sliding table support leg Fit one support leg to either end of the sliding table and adjust the leg height so that the leg takes the weight of the sliding table. Note. Legs only supplied for longer sliding tables. Fitting the push/pull handle. Fit the push/pull handle to the sliding table “T� slot. The handle can be fitted at any position along the sliding table to suit.
Push/pull handle
34
Fitting the rip fence. Fit the curser, clamp handle and chrome handle to the fence body. Lift the clamp handle and gently slide the fence body onto the support bar. Loosen the chrome handle on the top of the fence body and slide the fence onto the clamp strip. Once in position, clamp with the chrome handle on the top of the fence body. The fence can be fitted in the high or low position, depending on the job at hand.
Fence body Chrome handle
Clamp handle Curser
Rip fence clamp strip
Rip fence high position
Low position slot Fence body Clamp handle
35
Support bar Cursor Note. The fence comes factory set for parallel to the blade, but should adjustment be required, the two studs on the support bar are adjustable. To check that the cursor has been set at the factory correctly: Set the fence to a dimension (2" is suggested). Cut a short block of wood and measure. If the block is not at the set dimension, adjust the cursor. Fitting the straight-line shoe. The straight-line shoe is fitted into the “T� slot in the sliding table. The shoe is used to cut straight edges on uneven-width plank by jamming the plank under the shoe and clamping the opposite end with the table clamp.
Straight-line shoe
36
Fitting the miter gauge and clamp. Clamp
Clamp
Fence Miter gauge
Screw
Remove the screw in the “T” slot. Slide the miter gauge into the “T” slot. Attach the fence to the miter gauge. The miter gauge and clamp can be fitted to any point along the sliding table, but the far left-hand end is the most convenient. Fitting the sliding table side table and fence.
Side table support Fixing bolts For machines with the short sliding tables, fit the side table support to the machine body. If you have a machine with the longer sliding table, the side table support comes fitted to the table supports covered earlier.
37
Fit the side table support bar to the support arm as shown. Note the position of the bearings and washers. Do not fully tighten the nuts or locking nuts, as the support bar will have to be adjusted. Side table support bar
Bearings
T bolts
Side table on T bolts Side table Attach the side table to the “T� slots in the sliding table and clamp with the ratchet handles. The position of the side table along the sliding table is not important; it can be adjusted to suit the job at hand. Rest the table on the support bar and attach the support bar to the side table with the two bolts provided.
38
Leveling screws Ratchet handles Straight edge
Support bar fixing holes
To adjust the extension table level with the top of the sliding table: 1. Loosen the two ratchet handles. 2. Place a straight edge on the sliding table and the extension table. 3. Adjust the leveling screws until the table edge is level with the straight edge (two ratchet handles loose). 4. Adjust the nuts on the support bar until the table farthest away from the sliding table is level with the straight edge. 5. Tighten the ratchet handles and lock the nuts on the support bar and recheck. 6. Readjust if required. Note. The adjustment must be completed at both sides of the extension table. Note. The level must be checked with the clamps tight.
39
Fitting the miter fence. There are two pivot holes (one on each side of the table) to enable the miter fence to be fitted on both sides of the side table. It can be set at 90 degrees and adjusted between 90 and 45 degrees. Move the fence to the required angle and re-clamp. To fit the fence to the table. Remove the central clamp nut on the fence. Insert the pivot pin into the selected hole while dropping the central clamp stud into the slot in the side table. Attach the nuts and tighten.
Slot
Fence
To adjust the fence to the angle required. Loosen the clamp nuts. Slide the fence to the required angle. Re-clamp the nuts.
Fence pivot clamp
Fence angle clamp
40
Extending the fence.
Fence extended Fence extension clamp screw The fence can be extended by loosening the clamp screw (the underside of fence), sliding the extension out and re-clamping.
Flip stop Flip stop retracted The fence has an adjustable flip stop with micro adjustment as shown above. Fitting a Saw blade saw blade. Lock the spindle by inserting the Allen key into the spindle. While Riving knife clamp bolt Scoring blade holding the Allen
41
wrench, loosen the spindle nut and remove. Assemble the blade onto the spindle, ensuring that the teeth are in the correct direction. Replace the washer and clamp nut. Loosen the clamp bolt on the riving knife. Adjust the riving knife to suit the blade and re-clamp. Fit the guard to the riving knife (covered later in the manual). Fit the dust hose to the blade guard (covered later in the manual). Fit the dust hose to the dust extraction port (covered later in the manual). Fitting the scoring blade. Lock the spindle by inserting the Allen wrench in the spindle. While holding the Allen wrench, loosen the spindle nut and remove. Assemble the blade onto the spindle, ensuring that the teeth are in the correct direction. Replace the washer and clamp nut.
Clamp screw
Scoring controls. To adjust the scoring blade laterally, loosen the clamp screw. Adjust the lateral adjustment Lateral adjustment screw. Vertical adjustment To adjust the scoring blade vertically, with the clamp screw loose, adjust the vertical adjustment screw.
42
Fitting the blade guard.
Clamp screw shown in slot Guard fitted The blade guard fits onto the riving knife with a clamp screw. The clamp screw has a slot that allows it to fit through the riving knife, and then the screw is tightened and pulls the round section of the screw through the riving knife. This effectively locks the guard onto the riving knife, and unless the clamp screw is loosened to excess, the guard cannot come off. Remove the clamping nut on the guard. Push the screw back into the guard. Push the guard onto the riving knife so that the slot mentioned earlier lines up with the slot in the riving knife. Push the screw through the riving knife and attach the clamping nut. Tighten in the required position. Fitting the dust hose to the guard.
Dust hose support
Dust hose Main dust port
43
Dust hose Blade guard Fit the dust hose support to the jointer table as shown. Fit the dust hose to the guard and the main dust port as shown. Ensure that the hose is clamped tight, as you do not want it to come off during a cut. Connect a 4-inch dust hose between your dust collector and the main dust port. Ensure that the connection is secure. You will require a dust collector with a capacity of a minimum of 1000 CUFM, the stronger the better, as the machine can produce a lot of dust. Dado throat plate.
Dado throat plate A dado throat plate is fitted as follows: Removing the screws in the fitted throat plate and remove.
44
Fit the dado throat plate with the same screws.
The machine is supplied with a push stick and push pad.
Push stick
Saw controls. Lock
Saw blade height adjuster
Push pad
Saw blade angle adjuster
Saw/scoring on/off switch
Emergency stop switch
45
Shaper and sanding drum.
Sanding drum Shaper spindle Fitting the sanding drum. Clamp the spindle with the Allen wrench and loosen the nut with a wrench as shown. Assemble the washer, sanding drum, washer and nut and tighten. Fit the relevant rings into the table to reduce the clearance between the sanding drum and the table to a minimum.
Shaper vertical adjustment handle
Spindle raised
46
Shaper spindle
Shaper rings removed Clamp screws Fence adjuster
Shaper fence
Guard assembly Dust port Fence adjuster clamp
Fitting the fences to the shaper guard. Loosen the clamp screws at the back of the fence support. Slide the fence on to the “T� nut and clamp in the position required. Assembling the guard to the table. There are two tapped holes in the table for the guard clamp screws. Fit the shaper guard above the holes and fit the two clamp screws. The fences are sideways adjustable and are locked in position by tightening the clamp screws at the back of the shaper guard. The fences can be moved forward and back by adjusting the fence adjustment screw and locking in position with the clamp screw.
47
Fence lock screw
Shaper guard body
Door transport screw Motor clamp nut
Safety switch activator
Motor
Shaper spindle speed pulleys
Shaper spindle speed
Drive belt To access the shaper motor, the transport screw in the door has to be removed and discarded.
48
The shaper spindle has four speeds: 1800, 3000, 6000 and 9000 rpm. To select the required speed, move the drive belt to the correct pulley by loosening the motor, moving the belt to the correct pulley, retensioning the belt and tightening the motor. The belt should be tensioned so that there is approximately 1/16-inch deflection of the belt when the belt is pressed with moderate thumb pressure. The pulleys are accessed by opening the side door. The door is fitted with a safety micro switch that removes power from the motor, but this must never be relied on and power must be disconnected from the machine prior to accessing the pulleys or motor. Fitting the dust hose. The shaper guard takes a 4-inch dust hose. You will need a dust collection system with a minimum of 1,000 cubic feet per minute (the stronger the better). The dust hose is located at the back of the shaper guard. Ensure that the hose is securely connected to the guard, as you do not want the frustration of it coming off during production. Shaper controls. Shaper on/off switch Spindle rotation Vertical movement handle
Emergency stop Spindle speed indicator Speed indicators
49
Electrical connection. Note. The machine may not be supplied with an electrical plug, as the type of plug will be dependent on the installation. A qualified electrician must carry out the electrical installation. The minimum breaker size is 30 amps. If a longer cable is required, it must be terminated in the junction box located on the side of the machine. Note. Never access the electrical control box with the machine connected to the power. Before starting the machine. Electrical cable 1. Read and understand the instruction manual before operating the saw. 2. If you are still not thoroughly familiar with the operation of the saw, get advice from a qualified person. 3. Make sure the machine is properly grounded and that the wiring codes are followed. 4. Do not operate the machine while under the influence of drugs, alcohol or medicine or if tired. 5. Always wear eye protection, safety glasses or a safety shield, and hearing protection. 6. Wear a dust mask. Long-term exposure to the fine dust is not healthy. 7. Remove your tie, rings, watch and all jewelry. Roll up your sleeves and never wear loose clothing. You do not want anything to get caught in the blades or cutters. 8. Make sure that the guards are in place and use them at all times. The guards protect you from coming in contact with the blade/cutters. 9. Make sure that the saw blade teeth point in the correct direction. 10. Stop the machine before removing the scrap piece from the table. 11. Always keep your hands and fingers away from the blade or cutters. 12. Make sure that you use the proper size and type of tools. 13. Hold the work piece firmly against the table. Do not attempt to saw stock that does not have a flat surface facing down.
50
14. Use a push stick at the end of a cut. This is the most dangerous time because the cut is complete and the blade is exposed. 15. Hold the wood firmly and feed it into the machine at a moderate speed. 16. Turn off the machine if you have to back the material out of an incomplete or jammed cut. To start saw. Press the saw start/stop switch. To stop saw blade. Press any of the emergency stop buttons or press saw start/stop switch. To start shaper. Select the rotation required on the rotation control switch. Press the shaper start/stop switch. To stop shaper. Press any of the emergency stop buttons or press the shaper start/stop switch. To start jointer/planer. Press green start button. To stop jointer/planer. Press any of the emergency stop buttons or red jointer/planer stop button. Note. To reset the emergency stop button, twist and pull. Machine test. Now is the time to test the machine. Note. To reset the emergency stop button, twist and pull out. 1. Check that the machine is clear of all tools and other loose objects. 2. Check that all the adjusting and locking handles are tight. 3. Check that there is no blade or cutter fitted; it is far safer to test the machine without a blade or cutter fitted. 4. Start the saw as described earlier in the manual. 5. The saw arbor is now turning. 6. Now is the time to check that the safety switch is functioning correctly before you fit a blade. 7. With the machine running (no blade fitted), operate one of the emergency stop buttons. 8. If the safety switch fails to operate correctly, do not use the machine until the fault has been corrected. 51
9. Restart the saw and check that it stops when you press another emergency button. 10. Repeat the procedure with all the emergency buttons. Repeat the procedure for the shaper, mortiser and jointer/planer. 11. With the shaper running, open the door to the motor. The power should be removed from the motor, and it will slow down. 12. With the jointer running, unlock the table and slowly lift. There is a micro switch that will operate and remove the power from the motor. 13. Set the machine in planer configuration. 14. Start the planer as described earlier in the manual. 15. With the machine running, lift the dust chute until the safety micro switch operates. The motor should have the power removed and slow down. 16. If any of the safety switches fails to operate correctly, do not use the machine until the fault has been corrected. Before you cut any wood, read the safety rules at the front of this manual. Using and adjusting the machine. Adjustments. Note. The machine has had all its functions calibrated at the factory, but some movement may have taken place due to shipping conditions. This is unavoidable, and it is recommended that the following checks are made prior to starting production. As the machine is used, some functions may move, and it is, therefore, good practice to know the process for adjusting the machine prior to production. Fine-tuning the miter fence. Several methods are acceptable to fine-tune the fence, but we have found that the following is a very practical way to achieve a square panel: 1. Clamp the fence locked at 90 degrees. 2. Clamp a sheet onto the sliding table and cut a straight edge (“A”). Mark “A.” 3. Move the sheet so that edge “A” is tight against the fence, clamp in position, cut edge “B” and mark “B.”
52
4. Flip the sheet so that edge “A” is still against the fence but edge “B” is furthest away from the saw blade. Cut edge “C” and mark “C.” 5. If the sheet is cut square, edges “B” and “C” should be parallel. Check this by measuring across the width of the sheet at both ends. Note. This method will double the amount of error, and any adjustment that is required should be halved. Also, the stop is closer to the table than the end of the sheet, so only adjust the stop in very small amounts. For example, if you are using a 2 ft x 2 ft sheet and you are out of parallel by 1/16 inch, adjust the stop 0.01 inch and repeat the cuts. First cut. Second cut.
Third cut.
Measure both ends.
Planer. 53
Setting the planer depth scale. The simplest way to check if the planer scale is set correctly is to machine a piece of wood. Check the finished thickness of the wood and check that the scale is reading the correct dimension. No adjustment should be required, as the gauge is factory set and doweled in position. If adjustment is required, loosen the gauge clamp screws, remove the scale, remove the dowels, refit the gauge to the correct dimension, drill two new dowel holes and fit the removed dowels.
Thickness gauge Machine in planer configuration Anti-kickback teeth Anti-kickback teeth
Drive roller
Cutter head
Pressure roller
54
The anti-kickback teeth must be free to move, or they will not fulfill their function. With the power disconnected, check that all the teeth move freely. If they do not, lubricate with Teflon-based lubricant. Fitting teeth to the SherTec cutter head WARNING! Disconnect the machine from the mains conducting before any adjustment. The carbide cutter head (SherTec) has multiple teeth, which have four cutting edges. The teeth can be rotated as follows when they are blunt. Note. You will notice that each cutter tooth has a registration dot to ensure that the teeth are moved around in the same direction. 1. Loosen the tooth with the special Allen key. 2. Lift the tooth and rotate to the new cutting face. Note. Take special care to clean the tooth and its mating surface. Any dirt or sawdust that is trapped under the tooth will cause it to be at a different height from the other teeth and degrade the surface finish when you start machining. This will result in you having to take all the teeth out and clean the teeth and the mating surfaces again. Take your time and Registration dot Carbide tooth ensure that you are very thorough with cleaning. 3. Lower the tooth into the cutter head and clamp with the Allen key. Note. Only move all the teeth to a new cutting edge. Do not move less than all the teeth. Note. The carbide cutter head has several advantages over the parallel blade–type cutter head. 1. The teeth are carbide and will last longer than high-speed steel parallel blades. 2. There is less chance of tear out.
55
The disadvantage is that they are initially more expensive and that the surface finish is slightly wavy. This is caused because the teeth have a very slight radius. This waviness is easily removed by a light sanding. Jointer. Adjusting the table locking clamps. Note. Disconnect the power from the machine. 1. Lift the tables to the vertical position. 2. Loosen the lock nut, adjust the bolt and tighten the lock nut. 3. Lower the table and engage the locking clamp. 4. Repeat until the locking clamp securely clamps and locks the table.
Lock nut
Setting the out-feed table to the cutter head. The out-feed table must be level with the cutter head blade when the blade is at top dead center (T.D.C.) and the table must be locked. 1. Rotate the cutter head so that the blade is at the T.D.C. position. 2. Place a straight edge on the out-feed table over the cutter head and check that the blades just touch the straight edge. Note. This has to be checked at both sides of the table. Adjusting the in-feed table. 1. Place a straight edge on the in-feed table so that it overhangs the out-feed table. 2. Release the table lock. 3. Adjust the height of the table with the table height control knob so that both tables are level. 4. Lock the table lock. 5. Check that the table is lined up with the scale at “0.� Note. Never operate the jointer with the table unlocked.
56
Fine tuning the shaper fence.
Jacking screws Access to jacking screws The fences come factory set, but should they need adjustment, jacking screws are provided. Using an engineer’s square, check that each fence is square to the table. If adjustment is required, loosen the fence’s clamping screw and adjust the relevant jacking screw. Re-clamp and recheck. Readjust if required. Lay a straight edge on the table across both fences and adjust the fences so that they are level with the straight edge. If the fences are not straight with each other, loosen one of the fence’s clamping screws and adjust the relevant jacking screw. Re-clamp and recheck. Once the fences are aligned at the table, repeat the procedure at the top of the fence. There should not be an error if the fences are square to the table. Note. Only make small adjustments. Maintenance and troubleshooting. All tools and machines require regular maintenance, and this machine is no exception. This section details the general maintenance and care of your machine. In general, we recommend that you only use a Teflon-based lubricant on the machine. Regular oil attracts dust and dirt, and the Teflon tends to dry and has less tendency to accumulate dirt and sawdust on your machine .We also recommend that you wax the tables to help prevent rust.
57
Weekly maintenance. 1. Generally inspect the machine for damage and loose or worn parts. 2. Clean the machine and check that the dust hoses are clear. Make sure that all moving parts are clean and free from sawdust and dirt. 3. Lubricate all moving parts with a Teflon-based lubricant. 4. Wax the table and all non-painted parts. 5. Check blades and cutter teeth for chips and dullness. 6. Check the dust extraction for blockages and any large bits that could cause blockages. Drive belts. The drive belts should last for many years (depending on the usage) but need to be inspected regularly for cracks, cuts and general wear. If damage is found, replace belts. To re-tension the belts, loosen lock nut. The weight of the motor should put enough tension on the belts. Then tighten the lock nut. The belts come factory set, but they should be checked for tension after about 8 hours of use. The belts may to be re-tensioned, as they will have bedded into the “V� grooves. Bearings. All bearings are sealed for life and do not require any maintenance. If a bearing becomes faulty, replace it. Rust. The tables are made from steel and cast iron. All non-painted surfaces will rust if not protected. It is recommended that the table be coated with wax. All moving non-painted surfaces should be lubricated/protected with a Teflon-based lubricant.
58
Troubleshooting. Problem Motor will not start or fuses or circuit breakers blow.
Cause 1. Emergency button depressed. 2. Short circuit.
3. Start capacitor faulty. 4. Motor thermal protection circuit breaker faulty, or motor is at fault. 5. Open circuit in motor or loose connections. Machine will not start. 1. Check that the start switch is fully depressed. 2. Check that the electrical power cord is plugged into the power outlet. 3. Check that the electrical supply is on. 4. With the power disconnected from the machine, check that the wiring in the plug is correct. Check that the rubber insulation is stripped enough and is not causing a bad connection. Check that all the screws are tight.
Corrective action 1. Rotate until the switch returns to off position. 2. Repair or replace short circuit item. 3. Fit new capacitor. 4. Replace thermal protection circuit breaker in motor or replace motor. 5. Replace or repair motor or loose connection. 1. Fully depress the start switch. 2. Plug the power cord into power outlet. 3. Reset the breaker.
4. Correct the wiring.
59
5. With the power disconnected from the machine, check that the wiring to the machine is correct. Check that the rubber insulation is stripped enough and is not causing a bad connection. Check that all the screws are tight. 6. Check that you have the correct power: 220V, not 110V. 7. Check that the ground wire is wired correctly. 8. Safety switch not made. Motor tries to start but 1. With the power will not turn. disconnected from the machine, try to turn the blade by hand. If the blade will not turn, check the reason for the jamming. A typical reason is wood jamming the blade. 2. Capacitor faulty.
The machine will not stop. This is a very rare occurrence, as the machine is designed to be fail-
3. Motor faulty. 1. Stop switch faulty.
5. Correct the wiring.
6. Supply correct power.
7. Correct wiring.
8. Check all safety switches. 1. Remove the reason for the jam.
2. Replace the capacitor. 3. Replace the motor. 1. Replace the stop switch.
60
safe. If it should occur and you cannot fix the fault, seek professional assistance. The machine must be disconnected from the power and never run until the fault has been rectified.
Fuses or circuit breakers blow.
2. Internal contactor faulty. 1. Motor drawing excessive current. 2. Cutter head or motor jammed. 3. Short circuit.
2. Replace the contactor. 1. Repair or replace motor. 2. Remove jam.
3. Repair or replace short circuit item. Motor will not develop 1. Motor run capacitor 1. Replace the full power or motor at fault. capacitor. speed slows with load, overheats or stalls. 2. Machine 2. Take smaller cuts. overloaded. 3. Motor overheating. 3. Clean motor, taking care to make sure that all the cooling fins are clean. 4. Short circuit in 4. Repair or replace motor or loose motor/loose connections. connections. Motor overheats and 1. Internal terminal 1. Wait until motor stops. overload protector has cooled and then trips. restart. 2. Dull blade. 2. Change blade. 3. Overfeeding the 3. Slow feed rate. wood. 4. Motor cooling fins 4. Clean motor
61
Cutter head slows or belt squeals when cutting. Loud noise coming from machine.
Tables are hard to adjust. Tables will not lock. Excessive snipe (gouge in the end of the board that is uneven with the rest of the cut).
Job stops or slows during cut.
Chipping or marks (consistent pattern).
clogged. 5. Excessive ambient temperature. 1. Drive belt loose.
cooling fins. 5. Wait for ambient temperature to cool. 1. Tighten drive belt.
2. Drive belt worn out. 1. Motor pulley set screws or keys are missing or loose. 2. Drive belts are damaged. 1. Table spindles are tight. 1. Table locks too high or too low. 1. Out-feed table is too low.
2. Replace drive belt. 1. Replace or tighten if necessary.
2. Operator pushing down on trailing end of job. 3. Job is not supported as it leaves the out-feed of the planer. 1. Taking too deep of a cut. 2. Pitch or buildup on planer components.
2. Eliminate downward pressure on trailing end of job. 3. Support the job as it leaves the out-feed of the planer.
1. Knots or conflicting grain direction in wood. 2. Nicked, chipped or dull blade.
2. Replace drive belts. 1. Clean and lubricate spindles. 1. Adjust lock bolts. 1. Reset out-feed table with cutter head.
1. Take smaller cuts. 2. Clean the tables and cutter head components 1. Inspect job for knots and grain direction; only use good material. 2. Replace the blade.
62
3. Taking too deep of a cut. Furry finish on the grain.
1. Wood has high moisture content or surface wetness. 2. Blunt blades.
Lines or ridges that run along the board. Chatter marks across the face of the board. Uneven blade.
1. Nicked or chipped blades. 1. Blades not adjusted at even heights.
Shiny finish.
2. Worn cutter head bearings. 1. Blades are blunt. 2. Too fine a cut.
Chip marks, random pattern.
1. Chips not removed from cutter head.
Board edge is concave or convex after jointing.
1. Job not held with even pressure on infeed and out-feed table during cut. 2. Job started too uneven.
3. Board has excessive bow or twist along its length.
4. Insufficient number of passes.
3. Take smaller cuts. Take small cuts on hard woods. 1. Check moisture content and allow to dry. 2. Replace the blades. 1. Replace blades. 1. Adjust the blades so they are set up evenly in the cutter head. 3. Replace cutter head bearings. 1. Replace the blades. 2. Increase the depth of cut. 1. Use a dust collection system or a stronger dust collection system. 1. Hold job with even pressure as it moves over the cutter head. 2. Take small cuts to remove the extreme high spots before doing a full pass. 3. Surface plane one face so there is a good surface to position against the fence. 4. It may take three to five passes to
63
Tilt mechanism tight.
Vertical mechanism tight.
Saw. Poor cut.
Squeaking noise.
1. Check that nothing is jamming the mechanism. 2. Check that the worm gear and screw are clean and lubricated. 1. Check that nothing is jamming the mechanism. 2. Check that the worm gear and screw are clean and lubricated. 3. Check that the guide plate is not jamming.
4. Inspect the guide plate and bearing plate for wear and damage. 1. Dull blade. 2. Bent tooth. 3. Wrong type of blade for the job. 1. Motor cooling fan is contacting the fan cover.
achieve a good edge, depending on starting condition of board and depth of cut. 1. Remove the jam.
2. Re-lubricate.
1. Remove the jam.
2. Re-lubricate.
3. Clean and relubricate. Ensure that you clean the whole guide plate by moving the saw arbor fully up and fully down, cleaning the exposed part of the guide plate. 4. If damaged or worn, replace.
1. Change the blade. 2. Change the blade. 3. Change the blade. 1. Adjust motor cooling fan.
64
Saw blade slows down during a cut.
2. Bearing faulty. 3. Drive belt faulty or loose. 1. Loose drive belt. 2. Dull blade.
Blade or cutter overheats.
3. Feeding the wood too fast. 4. Insufficient set on the teeth (wood nipping the blade). 5. Oil or dirt on the drive belt. 6. Fence not aligned correctly. 1. Dull blade or cutter. 2. Pitch is too small for the depth of cut.
Machine vibrates.
Causes of the saw blade dulling.
3. Wood too hard for the selected blade/cutter. 1. Machine not level on the floor.
2. Damaged drive belt. 1. Wrong blade for the job. 2. Overfeeding the job. 3. Cutting painted wood or abrasive material.
2. Replace bearing. 3. Replace or tighten the drive belt. 1. Re-tension the belt. 2. Replace the blade or have it resharpened. 3. Slow down the feed rate. 4. Change the blade for a blade with the correct set. 5. Clean or replace the drive belts. 6. Align fence. 1. Change the blade/cutter or resharpen. 2. Change to a blade/cutter with the correct pitch. 3. Change the blade/cutter. 1. Re-level the machine, ensuring that it has no movement. 2. Replace belts. 1. Change the blade/cutter. 2. Reduce the feed rate. 3.Change blade or cutter.
65
Poor dust collection.
1. Check the capacity of the dust collection system. You need a minimum of 1,000 cubic feet per minute at the machine. The stronger the dust collection the better. 2. Check that the dust hose is not blocked. 3. Check that the dust collector is not full.
1. Upgrade dust collection.
2. Remove blockage. 3. Empty dust collector.
66
Electrical drawing
67
68
Revised wiring diagram for later machines.
69
70
Exploded view drawings and parts list.
71
72
73
74
75
76
77
78
79
80
81
82
83
84
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
102
103
104
Copyright 2010 Laguna Tools, Inc ** Warning – no portion of these materials may be reproduced without written approval from Laguna Tools, Inc. All documentation subject to change without notice
105