DAS PALMA DER FILME 1
THE STREETS OF CAPTAIN BLACKJACK 2 ERROL FLYNN’S YACHT 3 ORSON WELLES’S CIGAR 4 HE STEPS OF PALAU VIVOT 5 ELKE SOMMER’S BIKINI 6 BALLROOM AT BEARN’S HOME 7 AL PACINO’S MANSION 8 JAPPELOUP RACECOURSE 9 AVA GARDNER, ROBERT GRAVES’S MUSE 10 DIE STUFEN AUS “EL DUQUE”
WINDOW SHOPPING 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8
CAFÉS LLOFRIU PARAGUAS ES BOTÓ ITALIÀ UN ANTICUARIO LA EXPEDITIVA CERERIA SANTA EULALIA ESPECIAS CRESPÍ CA´N MIQUEL, FORN DE SA PELLETERIA, 9 MONNA LISA 10 HOMBRE CON CABEZA DE CASA
CELEBRITIES 1 2 3 4 5 6 7
NURIA BERMÚDEZ JOAN MIRÓ CAMILO JOSÉ CELA SAMUEL ETO’O MATTHIAS KHÜN JOHN LENNON SU MAJESTAD LA REINA DOÑA SOFÍA 8 GENNADIOS PETROV 9 TITA CERVERA 10 JORGE SEPÚLVEDA
URBAN Palma 1
PALACIO DE CONGRESOS/ EDIFICIO GESA
2
PLAÇA LLORENÇ BISBAL BATLE, nº 1
3
PLAÇA JOSEP MARIA QUADRADO, nº 5
4 5 6 7 8 9 10
PLAÇA DE SA QUARTERA, nº 2 C/ CA’N ZAVELLA EL RINCÓN DEL ARTISTA CA’N FÀBREGUES CA’N BUADES PALAU CA’N OLIVER-CA’N O’NEILL C.S.O. SA FONETA
PALMA-POOLS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
ARAXA ARMADAMS EL DIVINO ISLA MALLORCA PALAU SA FONT PINAR PURO SARATOGA s´ESTEL TRES
urban GRAPHIC ART 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
NURIA MORA SANTIAGO MORILLA LLORAR NASE/OVAS GRIP FACE STICK SOLDIERS SOMA GARLÓ OA COLECTIVO “NO PRINGUES MÁS”
HIDDEN GASTRONOMY 1 2 3 4 5
FORN DE LA GLORIA LA MONTAÑA ESPECIAS CRESPÍ FORN FONDO COLMADO SANTO DOMINGO 6 ACEITUNERA BALEAR 7 LA PAJARITA 8 CONFITERÍA FRASQUET 9 CHARCUTERÍA SELECTA FAUSTO IZQUIERDO 10 LA SIFONERÍA
PALMA LA NUIT 1 2 3 4 5
MICROS SA FAXINA EL MERENDERO BÉSAME MUCHO
PUB PAQUITA
6 7 8 9 10
TITO’S COMPLEJO BROADWAY BRUIXERIES CHOTIS LA POLILLA
PALMA IN THE SPOTLIGHT
WINDOW SHOPPING
CELEBRITIES
URBAN Palma
PALMA-POOLS
urban GRAPHIC ART
HIDDEN GASTRONOMY
PALMA LA NUIT
By Pedro Barbadillo
By Pere Joan and Enriqueta Llorca
By Ata Lasalle
By Jordi Martínez
By Ana Nieto.
By Jordi Pallarès, 2011
By Oscar Palmer
By Marina P. de Cabo
The elegant Renaissance palaces in the centre of Palma and the streets of the El Call Jewish quarter, the dramatic cliffs on the North Coast of the island, the almond groves inland, the peaks of the Sierra de Tramuntana… Mallorca has always provided an exceptional location for filming movies. It’s also the holiday destination of choice for many actors and directors who’ve made history.
Many of the shops in the city centre (and some further afield) have been taken over by franchises, and window dressing has become a carefully calculated operation. To some extent store displays are very uniform, seeking to appease the tastes of the majority, and this makes all “developed” cities seem fairly similar. But there are still some shops where personal tastes or eccentricities survive. In Palma people recall the names of establishments that disappeared decades ago such as “El Japón en Los Ángeles” or the shoe shop “La fuerza del destino”.
Palma attracts millions of people. Among them there are many who are outstanding at a given activity, making them popular figures and icons.
Many undefined buildings (under construction, in ruins, abandoned, etc.) make up a new and different map where we can discover new perspectives of the city.
Palma, or “Ciutat” as its inhabitants call it, is completely surrounded by the Mediterranean. Those who seek to take a dip but don’t like sand or salt need an alternative.
Today, as they stand in harmony alongside useful buildings, these constructions are part of a testimony to the past and present of town planning in Palma. A tale of how sketchy barrios have become chic residential areas or how a palace came to be a squat, for example. Treading the century-old paving stones and moving between downtown parking districts, both architectural prowess and aesthetic aberrations are revealed to us. Decrepit buildings that provide the incomparable beauty of decadence, leaving behind them a whiff of the tragic story of construction gone wrong. Buildings in ruins, under construction or abandoned, buildings that remain lifeless but that have a story to tell, projects with a future and with no future, legendary locations abandoned and forgotten. 10 locations whose aesthetics, history or surroundings are important.
The Arab Baths, one of the few examples of Muslim architecture remaining on the island, have been in disuse for several centuries, so we’re left to explore a more contemporary option: swimming pools.
Now more than ever, the urban graphic works − signed, tagged with a pseudonym or simply anonymous − needs to connect with what’s going on in the city, and above all connect with its citizens. Aestheticising the surroundings, provoking thought in times of crisis and with the evident illegality and ephemeral nature of some of the art as a cornerstone, Palma offers the visitor some “pieces” that try to resist the passing of time and the respect of other artists, as well as some that have been carried out on the edge of legality as part of institutional or private projects. Like any city, Palma has had fruitful times in terms of generations and has taken on risky projects. It also has “zones” with a certain street art tradition (mostly on the outskirts) and points of the urban landscape where we can find interesting large and small-scale offerings, carried out using different techniques and using different materials to paint on. Its easy location and safety mean that creators from everywhere drop by and leave their mark in any corner of the city.
As we would expect given its Mediterranean tradition, Balearic cuisine is exceptionally varied, rich in sensations, colours, ingredients and levels of enjoyment. Nonetheless, in spite of over five decades as a hugely popular tourist destination, most of Mallorca’s gastronomic delicacies are still largely unknown to visitors. Everybody recognises an ensaimada, but few outsiders try any other local delights from the bakery, missing out on robioles, crespells, empanadas and cocarrois. The same could be said of sobrasada, a delicacy which has been so popularised that today it has completely eclipsed other types of sausagemeat such as the camaiot, butifarrones and the more difficult to find “blanquets”. We could almost say that in Mallorca two realities coexist and ne’er the twain shall meet: the beach, the sausage and ensaimada on the one hand, and those shops and products that locals jealously keep for their own enjoyment on the other, although these are now also within reach of the curious tourist.
Night falls. It’s the signal for the inhabitant of any large contemporary city to free themselves of responsibilities. They cast aside their role as cogs in the machine of society; their wilder self craves hedonism. To cater for the needs of the darker side of their antagonistic lifestyles and avoid the appearance of psychotic tendencies, a series of bars and clubs have flourished with topsy-turvy timetables and routines. For decades, Palma has been home to dancehalls, pubs, nightclubs and other nightspots: a colourful range of alternatives for the discerning citizen to forget about their cares. These are places where norms are left behind, and we approach the outskirts of moral uprightness, becoming a den for the wolf that resides within. The keys to the success of these businesses, their luck and their evolution are very different: some have been reformed, others survive without any signs of their former glamour. This selection also contains a few premises now closed down, whose exclusion would have been a sign of negligence to the city’s nocturnal history.
Michael Douglas, Orson Welles, Anthony Quinn, Ava Gardner, Johnny Weissmüller, Peter Ustinov… the list goes on and on. All of them spent some time on the island, for business or pleasure, and all of them found themselves hooked. The latest in the long line are the Wachowskis, creators of the “Matrix” trilogy, who in late 2011 shot their new film “Cloud Atlas”, with Tom Hanks and Halle Berry. And New Yorker Harvey Keitel, who’s preparing for his new role in “Holiday in Mallorca”, scripted and directed by his wife Daphna Kastner.
1
THE STREETS OF CAPTAIN BLACKJACK Barri d’Es Jonquet
2
ERROL FLYNN’S YACHT
Mollet i Passeig del Born
3
ORSON WELLES’S CIGAR
Plaça de Braus “Coliseu Balear”
4 THE STEPS OF PALAU VIVOT Palau Vivot, C/ Can Savellà
5
ELKE SOMMER’S BIKINI
Playa de Palma
This selection is a tour of the shop windows and signs that conserve some degree of style or peculiarity that has drawn attention to them, especially those that have striking proportions. 1
CAFÉS LLOFRIU
Carrer Josep Tous i Maroto, 10
Cercle Mallorquí (avui Parlament Balear)
7
AL PACINO’S MANSION
Castell de Bellver
8 JAPPELOUP RACECOURSE
Hipòdrom de Son Pardo
Celebrities are the bounty of the common people’s photographic safari. And they have to be careful. Every moment of their lives is observed from the anonymity of the diner at the next table. Leave aside the fascination for a while and take this tour to realise that they really are human. Just like you or I they’re born, and on their journey they go to church, argue, have car accidents, meet their ex for a coffee, window shop, set up businesses and visit the hairdresser. And just like you or I, they die. And if by chance you’re a defender of the idea that time does not exist, that the universe is static and that we live in a permanent ‘here and now’, enjoy the timeless company of these individuals following the itinerary we offer.
2
PARAGUAS
1
NURIA BERMÚDEZ
Carrer Jaume II 22-A
Policlínica Miramar, Camí de La Vileta, 30
3
ES BOTÓ ITALIÀ
2
JOAN MIRÓ
Carrer Ample de la Mercé 14-B
Santuari de la Mare de Déu de la Bonanova. C/ Santuari, 8
4 UN ANTICUARIO
3
CAMILO JOSÉ CELA
Carrer Can Vatlori,23
C/ Francisco Vidal, 71
5
LA EXPEDITIVA
Carrer Soledat 5
4 SAMUEL ETO’O
6 CERERIA SANTA EULALIA
Bar Bosch – Passeig del Born
10 EL DUQUE’S STEPS
MA-20, Km 5,5 entre les sortides de Valldemossa i Puigpunyent
MATTHIAS KHÜN
Gossip Cafè. Camí de Son Rapinya, 31
Carrer Santa Eulalia, 8
7
ESPECIAS CRESPÍ
6 JOHN LENNON
Carrer Sindicat, 64
8 CA´N MIQUEL, FORN DE SA PELLETERIA,
7
Carrer Pelleteria 8-A
9 MONNA LISA
Jaume III 26
3
Avinguda Gabriel Roca/ C/Joan Maragall, s/n.
PLAÇA LLORENÇ BISBAL BATLE, nº 1
1
ARAXA
C. Pilar Juncosa 22
2
ARMADAMS
C. Marqués de Cenia, 34
3
EL DIVINO
Passeig Marítim, 33
“PLAÇA JOSEP MARIA QUADRADO”, nº 5
5
5
PALAU SA FONT
C. Apuntadores, 38.
“C/ CA’N ZAVELLA”
MORI-
FORN DE LA GLORIA
SU MAJESTAD LA REINA DOÑA SOFÍA Loewe. C/ Jaime III, 1
PE-
C/Campana, nº 2
C/ Forn de la Glòria, 7
LA MONTAÑA
2
SA FAXINA
C/ Jaume II, 27
Av. Argentina, 39.
ESPECIAS CRESPÍ
3
EL MERENDERO
Vía Sindicato, 64
Av. Joan Miró, 12.
LLORAR
3
Paret del torrent de Sa Riera (a l’alçada del parc del mateix nom).
4 FORN FONDO
4 BÉSAME MUCHO
C/ Unió, 15
5
ADROGUERIA SANTO DOMINGO
5
PUB PAQUITA
C/ Soler, 6
7
“CA’N FÀBREGUES”
“C/Convent de Sant Francesc”, nº 9
PURO
C. Montenegro 12.
5
GRIP FACE
Carrer d’en Bosc, 31 (Sa Gerreria).
Quiosc exempt entre Passeig Mallorca i Via Alemanya.
7
SOMA
Carrer de l’Hostal d’en Bauló, entre 8b i 12. (Ca n’Amunt).
8 SARATOGA Passeig Mallorca, 6
C/ Conquistador, 6
Francisco Peluqueros. El Corte Inglés. Avda. Alejandro Rosselló, 12, 1ª planta
“Plaça de Cort- C/Colom”, s/n
10 JORGE SEPÚLVEDA
Cementeri Municipal. Camí de Jesús, 2
“C/Caputxines”, nº 9
10 “C.S.O. SA FONETA”
“Plaça d’Espanya, nº 10”
8 GARLÓ 9 s´ESTEL
C. l´Hostal de l´Estel, 4
Carrer Corderia, 11 i 22 (Ca n’Amunt).
9 OA 10 TRES
C. Apuntadores, 3
C/ Santo Domingo, 1
6 ACEITUNERA BALEAR
7
LA PAJARITA
C/ Sant Nicolau, 4
8 CONFITERÍA FRASQUET
Costa de Ca’n Berga, entre 1 i 3.
10 COLECTIVO “NO PRINGUES MÁS” Carrer de la Mar, 15. (Sa Llonja).
Passeig Marítim s/n
7
COMPLEJO BROADWAY
Av. Joan Miró
8 BRUIXERIES
C/ Estanc, 9
C/ Orfila, 4
9 XARCUTERIA SELECTA FAUSTO IZQUIERDO
6 TITO’S.
Mercat de l’Olivar, parades 69 i 70
Mercat de Santa Caterina, parades 17, 18, 73 i 74
10 LA SIFONERÍA
Av. Joan Miró, 5.
Carrer ample de la Mercè, entre 11 i 13.
6 STICK SOLDIERS 7
MICROS Av. Argentina, 18.
3
1
2
Carrer de la posada de la Montserrat, solar entre 4 i 14.
Camilo José Zela, 6.
6 EL RINCÓN DEL ARTISTA
9 “PALAU CA’N OLIVER-CA’N O’NEILL”
Pas d’en Quint
SANTIAGO LLA
1
9 TITA CERVERA
Carrer de la Ferreria 24 y 38
2
4 NASE/OVAS
4 “PLAÇA DE SA QUARTERA”, nº 2
NURIA MORA Carrer de la Samaritana, façana del 14 (Ca n’Amunt).
C. Pilar Juncosa, 7
8 “CA’N BUADES” 10 HOMBRE CON CABEZA DE CASA
1
6 PINAR
Antic Hotel Meliá Mallorca. Passeig Marítim, 1
8 GENNADIOS TROV
2
PALACIO DE CONGRESOS/ EDIFICIO GESA
Owing to the tourist boom that turned Palma into one of the main holiday destinations of the 60s and 70s, most of these pools are to be found on the premises of the multitude of hotels dotted around the city. Back in their heyday, these pools were surrounded by a rainbow of deckchairs and loungers, and had curved forms (vintage postcards in the receptions of many of these hotels bear testament to this trend). Today many have been replaced with straight lines and more practical shapes. So without further ado let’s start our crystalline chlorinated route. Come on in, the water’s lovely!
4 ISLA MALLORCA
5
9 AVA GARDNER, ROBERT GRAVES’S MUSE
1
6 BALLROOM AT BEARN’S HOME
The everyday activity of celebrities becomes newsworthy.
C/ Santa Clara, 4
9 CHOTIS
Pza. Gomila, s/n
10 LA POLILLA
Av. Joan Miró, 55