Day Trip

by Vicki Wood

Village offers history, fun and charm

The best little village in eastern Missouri

With a population of only 125 people, the Village of Caledonia barely registers as an incorporated town. Despite its small size Caldeonia holds so much charm, it makes the three-hour trip east worth it. Thousands of cars are parked near the Huzzah Valley Resort at Steelville, the last good-sized town before arriving in Caledonia.

The temperature was reaching 103 degrees that day, but it didn’t stop the paddlers from splashing in the river. The streets were quiet upon arrival at 8 a.m. as preparations were being made for a festival that day. The annual Caledonia Blackberry Festival kicked off with a kid’s watermelon eating contest and blackberry dessert contest. Vendors featured blackberries in virtually everything that day, whether it be jam, cake, cupcakes or an embroidered blackberry themed craft. Even the barbecue sauce served at the food trucks was blackberry, drizzled on sticks of grilled pork. The Village Barn, located in the City Park, is a centerpiece for the tiny town. The big red barn gives church and civic groups a place to gather for fundraisers or serves as a wedding venue.

Never has community pride been more evident than in Caledonia. Perhaps it is because of their history. Beginning as a settlement of Scottish immigrants, Caledonia has seen good and hard times. The magnificent historic homes testify to a time of prosperity there. Later days saw the village become a ghost town after the iron mining industry dried up. Caledonia has bounced back over the last 40 years or so, thanks to some extremely hardworking people with a vision. One of those residents is Nina Gilliam.

Nina owns several ventures in town, one being a tourist destination. The Old Village Mercantile sits in one of the many historic buildings of a National Historic District.

The Old Village Mercantile holds its own against other famous old-style five and dime stores, like Dick’s Five and Dime in Branson. The 1909 store was filled with tourists, with the in-house homemade ice cream counter being the most popular feature. Aisles of every candy imaginable were neatly arranged in jars that kept families filling bulk bags of all their favorites. The store offered the highest variety of chocolate with at least ten different kinds of chocolate covered coffee beans, a fudge counter with 24 flavors, a coffee bar, cookies and truffles. Antiques and curiosities lined the walls and displays, but the valuable stuff is behind ancient glass display cases, which are filled with a display of antique candy boxes.

Next door to the Old Village Mercantile is another venture of Nina’s, The Old Village Hot Dog Shoppe. They are open daily with the exception of Wednesdays to make their homemade ice cream. Many other antique and vintage markets can be found in the area.

Across the street from the Old Village Mercantile stands the old town hall building. A short walk will lead you to the first Masonic Lodge in Missouri. Not far from there is the Old Caledonian Bed and Breakfast and Natural Farm. Gilliam and her husband owned it in the 1990s before selling it to a family from Kansas City. They said they looked at a B&B in Camdenton near Ha Ha Tonka that was for sale, but chose the charming small town of Caledonia and the history of this particular home.

The Ruggles-Evans-Dent Home is part of the 33 buildings in the historical district, and is the former home of Scottish Settler Elijah Ruggles. The Greek Revival style mansion sits on the grounds where walnut trees were made into furnishings which today are inside the home. The home welcomes visitors to a Victorian-era experience with mansion-like touches built in the wilderness of Missouri. An ancient cooking hearth is on display behind the check-in desk. The rooms are posh with white bathrobes hanging for guests, and in-room clawfoot bathtubs for an ultimate relaxing experience. If that isn’t enough, there are walking

At left: Old Caledonian Bed and Breakfast. Above and below: Old Village Mercantile is like an old-fashioned five and dime store.

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paths to meander by a mini waterfall and rocklined catching pool with goldfish. A feeling of tranquility can be found on the grounds with a hot tub and wooden barrel sauna nestled against a backdrop of the surrounding wooded farm. Behind the tree line, guests can take a peek at the mini farm that the hosts created with pygmy goats, geese, chickens and peacocks. Fresh eggs are served every morning on the Old Caledonian Breakfast table. Chef Michael Amen prepares farm-to-table meals for his guests daily. Co-owner Frank Ugolini decorated the inn and welcomes guests at the reception desk.

More info

The Old Village Mercantile: 219 S State Highway 21

Monday -Thursday 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Friday 10 a.m. -6 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m.-7 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m.-6 p.m. Closed on Thanksgiving Day, Christmas Day and Easter Sunday.

The Old Village Hot Dog Shoppe: 219 State Highway 21

Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m.-4 p.m., and Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Closed Wednesdays.

The Old Caledonian Bed and Breakfast: 116 S, MO-21