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DINING L.A. 2020
Maer Roshan
EDITOR IN CHIEF DEPUTY EDITOR
Hailey Eber ASSOCIATE EDITOR
Trish Deitch CONTRIBUTING WRITER
Andy Wang A RT A N D P R O D U C T I O N CREATIVE DIRECTOR
Ada Guerin PRODUCTION DIRECTOR
Denise Philibert SENIOR ART DIRECTOR
Rose DeMaria PRODUCTION COORDINATOR
Mallory Young CONTRIBUTING PHOTO EDITOR
Richard Villani EDITORIAL INTERNS Melanie Curry, Emma Kopelowicz, Morgaine McIlhargey, Schuyler Mitchell, Olivia Novato
Josef Vann
PRESIDENT & PUBLISHER ADVERTISING DIRECTOR
Caitlin Cullen LUXURY GOODS DIRECTOR
Samantha Greenfield INTEGRATED ACCOUNT DIRECTORS
Brittany Brombach, Mathew Jongsma, Dana Hess, Michelle Gisler, Jen Kirkley M A R K E T I N G S E RV I C E S DIRECTOR, STRATEGY & PARTNERSHIPS
Susan Starling DIRECTOR OF MARKETING
Kendra Tio
O BESTIA’S RED ENDIVE WITH BROOKS CHERRIES, PROSCIUTTO,
SALES & MARKETING COORDINATOR
Julianne Quirong DIGITAL PLANNER
ARUGULA, AND MIDNIGHT MOON CHEESE
Kelcey Lucille Quan Joyce C R E AT I V E S E RV I C E S CREATIVE SERVICES ART DIRECTOR
Sheila Ramezani A D M I N I S T R AT I O N BUSINESS MANAGER
Eugene C. Supnet ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE MANAGER
Juan Maldonado PUBLISHING SYSTEMS ADMINISTRATOR
HOT TABLES
THE HOT LIST
Genevieve Gergis—the power couple behind Bestia and Bavel—dish on the future of restaurants
O The culinary scene in Las Vegas continues to heat up, with big-name chefs, bustling food halls, and decadent dining rooms
O Our monthly index of the city’s most essential restaurants for eating in or taking out
PAGE 14
PAGE 32
BOOK IT
CHILD'S PLAY
HIRE CALLING
O Get cooking with easy
O Hit the road and let
O Alta Adams’s Keith Corbin on the fight for equality and inclusivity in the food world
COMEBACK CUISINE
O Surprisingly sophisticated
O Chefs Ori Menashe and
nonalcoholic spirits are shaking up the cocktail world PAGE 8
CHEAPER THRILLS O From bagels to tacos,
the best new spots for casual, affordable eats PAGE 9
4 L A M AG . C O M
but impressive recipes from some of the city’s most beloved eateries PAGE 24
Julia Child be your guide to the delicious bounty of Santa Barbara County PAGE 34
PAGE 36
Rob Burns LOS ANGE LES C U S T O M P U B L I C AT I O N S VICE PRESIDENT, CUSTOM CONTENT
Mitch Getz LOS ANGE LES M AG A Z I N E, L L C
PAGE 44
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COVER: BESTIA’S BUTTERMILK PANNA COTTA, PHOTOGRAPH BY A N D R E A D ’AG O S T O
A N D R E A D ’AG O STO
BUZZY—BUT NO BUZZ
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DRINKING
BUZZY — BUT NO BUZZ
SURPRISINGLY SOPHISTICATED NONALCOHOLIC SPIRITS ARE SHAKING UP THE COCKTAIL WORLD
BY HAILEY EBER
“ I T ’ S W H AT B E E R drinkers drink when they’re not drinking beer” was a catchy slogan for O’Doul’s in the early ’90s. But what do cocktail drinkers drink when not drinking cocktails? These days they’ve got more and more options. Nonalcoholic spirits are bubbling up around town. Launched in 2015, Seedlip claims to be the world’s first distilled nonalcoholic spirit brand, and its ginlike beverages are sold at Whole Foods and Bristol Farms, and used to mix drinks at numerous L.A. bars and restaurants. Last August, booze giant Diageo purchased a majority stake in Seedlip for an undisclosed amount, with a Diageo exec calling it “a game-changing brand in one of the most exciting categories in our industry.” Lyre’s, an Australian company with a line of 12 different spiritless spirits, from absinthe to vermouth rosso, hit the U.S. market last November and is available at BevMo. Proteau, a new virgin aperitif created by New York bartender John deBary recently launched in Los Angeles. Such products are satisfying a growing demand for alcohol alternatives. According to the World Health Organization, the number of booze drinkers has fallen by 5 percent since 2000. Wellness-obsessed millennials and Gen Zers are shying away from the sauce, tagging social media posts with #DryJanuary and #SoberCurious. “People are thirsty for nonalcoholic products,” says deBary. “It’s the next frontier.” While requiring boozeless spirits to make a good mocktail might seem silly— 8 L A M AG . C O M
can’t you just omit the hard stuff?—bartenders say these products are essential to making good virgin beverages. “Seedlip offers these really sophisticated flavor profiles that aren’t easily obtainable in the nonalcoholic world,” says Kim Stodel, the beverage director at WeHo’s Providence. These products aren’t only for making alcohol-free beverages, they’re also for shaking up lower-alcohol cocktails. DeBary says Proteau is great for making champagne spritzes. MeMento, an Italian aromatic distilled water currently seeking U.S. distribution and available online, lists recipes for both nonalcoholic and low-alcohol cocktails on its website. Some of the products aim to do more than make tasty virgin tipples. Euphorics,
from the Brooklyn-based company Kin, contains adaptogens—herbs that purportedly help the body handle stress—and nootropics—substances that some claim boost cognitive function. The beverage is served at various local spots, from cocktail den Apotheke to Alfred Coffee. London’s Three Spirit sells alcohol alternatives touting similar effects. “Perhaps you’ll feel more connected, chattier, superchilled or a little more up for whatever comes your way,” the website reads. The company plans to start selling in the U.S. this year. For “people who love to go out . . . but who still want to be on form the next day,” says Three Spirit cofounder Tatiana Mercer, “we offer the dream.” P H O T O G R A P H BY K Y L E DAV I D M O R E NO
HOTVILLE CHICKEN
MAURY’S BAGELS LS
SPOON & PORK K
O Kim Prince’s great-great uncle invented
O The farmers’ market favorite ite finally h has
O Previously a food truck, this bright
Nashville-style hot chicken in the 1930s. Now she’s brought the family tradition to the West, with a charming spot serving perfectly juicy, spicy, crunchy breasts ($11), legs ($10), and much more. 4070 Malton Ave., Baldwin Hills-Crenshaw, hotvillechicken.com
a home of its own—on a charming corner or next to Psychic Wines, no less—for its delicious bagels ($18/baker’s dozen). Go for a classic lox sandwich ($10 or $16), or mix things up with a za’atar bagel with labneh ($8). 2829 Bellevue Ave., Silver Lake, maurysbagels.com
brick-and-mortar serves modern Filipino fare, including adobo hot wings ($12) and an awesome patita ($24)—a hulking pork shank with chili-garlic sauce. Don’t forget your veggies: the Brussels sprouts ($7) are also winners. 3131 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, spoonandpork.com
DINING
CHEAPER THRILLS
EATING WELL DOESN’T HAVE TO BREAK THE BANK. FROM SPICY FRIED CHICKEN TO TIJUANA-STYLE TACOS, THESE ARE SOME OF OUR FAVORITE NEW SPOTS FOR AFFORDABLE, CASUAL MEALS
BY HAILEY EBER
COLAPASTA
TACOS 1986
O The pleasures are simple and certain
O After getting their start at Smorgasburg,
at this Westside spot serving great pastas ($12-$16) made fresh and topped with farmers’ market produce. It’s hard to go wrong, but the delicate half-moon-shaped red beet ravioli topped with brown butter and a sprinkle of poppy seeds are especially right. 1241 5th St., Santa Monica, colapasta.restaurant
these Tijuana-style eats have rapidly expanded across the city. You can now grab the chainlet’s tacos ($3.25), filled with especially flavorful meats or mushrooms and a heavy dollop of guacamole, at permanent locations downtown, in the Fairfax District, and in Westwood Village. Various locations at tacos1986.com
I L LU S T R AT I O NS BY K AT I E B E N N
THE WINDOW AT AMERICAN BEAUTY O L.A. is lousy with smashburgers these
days, but this one, served out of the side of a swanky steakhouse, is one of the best. Crispy frizzled onions and delightful housemade pickles elevate the fast-food favorite. Forget the single patty ($3.95) and make it a double ($6.25). 425 Rose Ave., Venice, americanbeauty.la L A M AG . C O M 9
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COMEBACK CUISINE RESTAURANTS
ORI MENASHE AND GENEVIEVE GERGIS—THE CULINARY POWER COUPLE BEHIND BESTIA AND BAVEL—DISH ON WEATHERING THE SHUTDOWN, REOPENING PLANS, NEW MENU ITEMS, AND THEIR HOPES FOR THE FUTURE OF HOSPITALITY
BY ANDY WANG
ORI MENASHE AND GENEVIEVE GERGIS
are husband and wife, chef and pastry chef, and the visionaries behind two of L.A.’s most celebrated and successful restaurants: Bestia and Bavel. The culinary power duo, who met in 2005 when Menashe was cooking and Gergis was a hostess at Gino Angelini’s La Terza, debuted Bestia’s rustic but modern Italian food in 2012. It quickly transformed the gritty Arts District into one of the city’s buzziest dining destinations. Food-loving scenesters from across the city flocked to the distinctly industrial dining room to feast on pizzas, pastas, and charcuterie, as town cars idled outside. Then, in 2018, Menashe and Gergis opened Bavel, a Middle Eastern marvel that became another seemingly unstoppable sensation with its next-level hummus, harissa prawns, and soul-warming lamb-neck shawarma. But, like all city restaurants, Bavel and 14 L A M AG . C O M
Bestia have been teetering in the wake of the COVID-19 shutdown. Menashe and Gergis are quick to note that even popular places like theirs, which seem invincible, have little to no financial cushion. Closing a high-volume, low-margin business for even a month can mean total destruction. And while both restaurants did a brisk takeout business during the shutdown—selling out of their 200 dinners at each place nightly—they were only making a fraction of what they did when they served nearly 500 people every night at each of the bustling restaurants. But the couple says diners continued to be extremely supportive, buying merchandise and gift cards. One guy got one for $5,000. “He was like, ‘I really want you guys to have the funds to reopen because I believe in restaurants,’” recalls Gergis. “Customers in L.A. in general have been amazing.” Los Angeles recently spoke to Menashe and Gergis about their struggles, the uncertainty P H O T O G R A P H S BY A N D R E A D ’AG O S T O
O CHEFS GENEVIEVE GERGIS AND ORI M E N AS H E I N T H E D O O RWAY O F T H E I R H I T D OW N TOW N M I D D L E E AST E R N R E STAU R A N T B AV E L
O T H I S VAC H E R I N ( R I G H T ) W I T H B R O O KS - C H E R RY A N D O R A N G E - B LO SS O M B U T T E R M I L K S H E R B E T, F R E S H C H A M O M I L E I C E C R E A M , A N D B L AC K- C U R R A N T M E R I N G U E , I S O N E O F S E V E R A L N E W D I S H E S AT B AV E L . I T W I L L B E S E RV E D W I T H A C H E R RY A N D B L AC K B E R RY CO M P OT E ( L E F T )
Initially, you weren’t doing takeout after the COVID-19 shutdown, but then you changed your mind. Why? GENEVIEVE GERGIS: Three or four days after the restaurants shut down, Ori and I were both like, “OK, we’re just not going to open. Everyone is just going to sit at home, and we’re just going to wait it out.” And then I was on the phone with our accountant and controller, and I was looking at the numbers, and she was like, “You’re going to be out of money by May 1.” Restaurants operate on a very slim profit margin. People think we have a million dollars in the bank. Nobody has that. ORI MENASHE: There’s no such thing as a cushion. GG: We had, like, 100 grand, which, when you’re paying $65,000 a month in health insurance, plus other things that you owe, that goes away very damn fast. So we had two choices: we either shut down everything and put our restaurants in a coma, 16 L A M AG . C O M
Restaurants operate on a very slim profit margin. People think we have a million dollars in the bank. Nobody has that. and no one has health insurance, or we figure out a way to sell enough takeout to pay our vendors for the food we’re using, to pay for health insurance, and then, if we’re lucky enough, to pay off some of the things that we owe, like utilities and part of the rent. Our landlord Yuval Bar-Zermer is amazing, by the way. We didn’t even ask him for rent deferment. He sent us a letter and said, “I know that times are tough. Don’t worry about your rent right now. We’ll figure it out later.” What kind of responsibility do you feel to the people who work in your
restaurants, with everything that’s happened? GG: The first month I would wake up to horrible nightmares, where I would see my old employees. They would be skinny and they were hungry. That’s probably why I started Feed Love L.A. [a nonprofit that feeds restaurant workers, co-founded by Gergis, Menashe, Rossoblu’s Dina and Steve Samson, Cassell’s Hamburgers’ Christian Page and Elia Aboumrad, and philanthropist Aileen Getty]. It takes pressure off my brain to know that employees are taking home nutritious food. What are your plans for reopening at this point? GG: We are, I think, like most people, really trying to figure out the airflow and the space and our staff and how to strategize and open in the safest way possible for both the public and our employees. Also, we need to make sure [that we’re not] bleeding money. It’s a very delicate balance, and we’re trying to make sure we’re at least breaking even. We don’t need to be making money to open, because we understand that that can come
OPPOSITE: NICOLE FRANZEN/COURTESY BESTIA
that lies ahead, and their hopes for the future of hospitality—and the couple’s own restaurants, which they’re in the process of reopening.
O M E N AS H E A N D G E R G I S A R E CO N S I D E R I N G E X PA N D I N G T H E O U T D O O R S PAC E AT B E ST I A S O T H E Y C A N SA F E LY ACCO M M O DAT E M O R E D I N E R S
L A M AG . C O M 17
O OTHER NEW DISHES AT BAVEL INCLUDE (CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT) HUMMUS WITH SMOKED BORLOTTI BEANS AND PITA; MARINATED CUCUMBER AND FRIED ZUCCHINI; AND A CHICKEN TAGINE
later. At this point, it’s not about profits. OM: We’ll have a new menu at Bestia. It won’t be completely new—stuff like bone marrow and cavatelli and the margherita pizza are going to have to stay. Customers would probably kill me if I took those off the menu. We’re also going to switch some things at Bavel. I want to start with a fresh menu. Obviously, the classics are going to stay, but there’s going to be a good amount of new items. How difficult is it to configure your dining rooms to operate at 60 percent capacity, as the county is mandating? GG: At Bavel, a lot of our seating is actually spaced out. Also, we have a big terrace, and we have a lower terrace that’s previously just been for people to walk around. OM: Bestia is very tricky because we have a lot of those booths that are connected to each other. We would have to get rid of the massive booths to be able to spread tables throughout the restaurant. I’ve been talking to our landlord to see if we can extend our outdoor space. How did you react when you heard that L.A. would allow restaurants to reopen for dine-in service in early June. Were you surprised at how quickly that happened? GG: I’m disappointed in the way [L.A.] handled a lot of it. It felt like they were flying by the seat of their pants. They were like, “OK, there’s this crazy virus, let’s shut everything down and we’ll close our eyes and maybe it will just go away.” They continued that for a very long time. People started to lose their sense of place, and had anxiety about whether they’re ever going to get their job back, whether they can feed their family. It created a lot of stress; there was no leadership. When they started to realize that the virus wasn’t just going to be eradicated, and we were going to have to live with this in some form, they all of a sudden were like, “You can just open and be really safe.” They didn’t give us any preparation. It’s like when your kid has to go through puberty, you give them the talk to prepare them. We are the city’s children. I love my city, but I expected more. OM: I thought it would take a little bit longer and they would want to see less cases, but I guess there was a lot of pressure to reopen.
O T H E CO U P L E ’ S 6 -Y E A R - O L D DAU G H T E R , SA F F R O N , LOV E S CO M I N G TO WO R K W I T H M O M A N D DA D
A year from now, what do you hope things will be like at Bestia and Bavel? GG: We have enough treatments available to make COVID-19 not deadly. And then people can fully interact without fear. Because the whole point of restaurants is they’re places to let go of the stress of your everyday life. As long as this virus is rampant and deadly, people aren’t going to be able to fully relax in a restaurant. I want our restaurant to be an escape. It’s not going to feel like much of an escape if you see people with masks in your open kitchens? GG: It wouldn’t. I’m hoping we’ll have enough of a handle on this where people can start to enjoy their lives and not have this thing hovering over their heads. Do you see any bright sides to the shutdown? OM: I think people are now going to appreciate things a little bit more. You’re going to go out to a restaurant and the first thing on your mind is not to figure out what’s wrong, but to see what’s right. I feel like people are going to enjoy life a little bit more and just appreciate their time away from work and with their friends at restaurants. I never complain
when I go to restaurants. I have one day off every two weeks—I don’t want to be pissed off on my day off. If the food is good, that’s good. If the food is not that great, I’m still having a good time. And I feel like people are going to be a little bit closer to that. The weekend that restaurants were allowed to reopen was also when the Black Lives Matter protests really crested. What are your thoughts on how the restaurant industry can be better and more inclusive for the Black community and all people of color? GG: I think the answer for restaurants is, instead of focusing on that perfect résumé when hiring, to be more openminded and change the questions you ask in an interview. When you walk into places and you don’t see what Los Angeles looks like, maybe those places should look at themselves. I’m not saying they’re racist or bad people. But that would be a time for self-reflection. My mom is a social worker and I come from that kind of mindset of looking at everyone and taking everything into account. I’ve been to a million protests. I’m the one with the sign that says people should love each other. I’m a little hippieL A M AG . C O M 19
ish. I think the best way to describe it is that when we hire, I don’t say, “Two years experience or school.” I write stuff like, “Team player, good attitude, flexible schedule.” We hire from everywhere. We hire from Homeboy Industries [a nonprofit that provides job training for people who were previously gang members or incarcerated], which I love. It’s not just about racial diversity. It’s about hiring from a diverse socioeconomic background. We have done that from the beginning. In one of our first Yelp reviews [at Bestia], somebody wrote something like, “I feel like everybody here is an ex-gang member, because they all have gang tattoos.” Ori and I were like, “They are. A lot of them are.” Sometimes we get a résumé and somebody will say, “I’m a perfect fit for Bavel because I’m Israeli,” or, “I’m a perfect fit for Bestia because I’m Italian.” That’s not how we hire—we hire people who are kind, have empathy, and are team players. Very few of our people went to culinary school. Our interviews aren’t, “Hey, tell me about your work at Joël Robuchon.” It’s, “Do you love food? Do you want to learn this? Do you have the passion?” There’s been a lot of buzz about the Arts District, but a lot of it is really
The best way to get a reservation is at 11:00 in the morning, when our hostesses do all their confirmation phone calls for the next day.
about Bestia and Bavel. Other people have struggled in the same neighborhood. What’s been your secret? GG: Me and Ori and Leah Bunch, our director of operations, are really scrappy. OM: We’re always there. We never leave our restaurants. We’re not moving on to the next project, so we focus on those two restaurants. I’m still spending 17 hours a day at the restaurants, and all three of us are workaholics. I guess we’ll be able to travel one day, but we’re trying to keep things as best as we can keep them. The work never ends.
O CO O KS M A N T H E OV E N A N D M A K E F LU F F Y P I TA B R E A D AT B AV E L
20 L A M AG . C O M
Did people have special tricks to get reservations at your restaurants in the past? OM: We’ve gotten some crazy emails. Remember that crazy one that was, like, a sexual email? GG: Oh, that was a good one. Someone was like, “My wife will give Ori a blowjob.” It came from a well-known comedian, so it made sense he would say that. And then instead of creepy, it became funny. OM: It was still creepy. GG: The truth is, we’re very firstcome, first-serve. But once in a while, you’ll get someone who’s like, “My 80-year-old grandmother finally finished her chemo and it’s her birthday.” How do you say no to that? You can’t. But you’re not encouraging people to lie about medical conditions? GG: You know when it’s real and when it’s not. You can just tell. OM: The best way to get a reservation is at 11:00 in the morning, when our hostesses do all their confirmation phone calls for the next day. They’ll get some cancellations because people are making a reservation a month or two in advance, and then they’re like, “Ah, shit, I can’t make it.” Go online at 11:00, 11:30, or just make the phone call and you might be able to get in the next day. What restaurants did you miss the most during the shutdown? OM: My top five would be Taco Maria, Broken Spanish, Hatchet Hall . . . GG: Don’t go so fast, you’re missing people. OM: . . . Cassia and Fishing With Dynamite. GG: Let’s go get some Cassia! I [also] love Tsubaki and Ototo. I can’t decide which one I like more, because, you know what?, Courtney Kaplan is the most amazing sake expert, I think, in all of Los Angeles. Fishing With Dynamite is amazing for me. All I want to do is have oysters next to the beach. Or go to neighborhood restaurants like Elf in Echo Park. I just want to sit there with a glass of biodynamic wine and
O B E ST I A D I D A B R I S K TA K E O U T B U S I N E SS D U R I N G T H E S H U T D OW N ( L E F T ) . T H E R E STAU R A N T W I L L R E O P E N W I T H A N A L M O ST E N T I R E LY N E W M E N U, I N C LU D I N G F R E S H D I S H E S L I K E R I COT TA R AV I O LO ( R I G H T ) W I T H CO N F I T TO M ATO A N D H E R B O I L
have their halloumi salad while my daughter pulls on my hair because she wants more sugar in her lemonade. I miss so many little places. I miss driving to work and stopping at Konbi for their amazing chocolate croissantS. There’s too many little things. It’s not just about big experiences. What do you think of quarantine cooking, and how everybody was suddenly making sourdough and banana bread? GG: Banana bread is the best thing ever, so I definitely agree with that. OM: It [was] the perfect time to make sourdough. It’s very difficult to perfect something like that when you’re working and busy. Letting your sourdough sit at room temperature and then refrigerating it, you can see the whole process and understand its habits because you’re at home all day. It’s pretty cool to see people making sourdough. How did your daughter, 6-year-old Saffron, handle quarantine? GG: Saffron thought it was the best thing that’s happened to her. 22 L A M AG . C O M
She came to work with us. OM: She loved it. GG: With her little mask. So cute. OM: I was in quarantine when I was a kid in Israel during the Iraqi War, and I was in the fourth grade. And I think those two months, I can still remember how great they were because I was with my family all day. We would go into the bomb shelter together with gas masks and spend hours playing Monopoly. It was amazing. I’m sure my parents suffered, but all us kids enjoyed it. Which of you handled quarantine better, and how’s your marriage beyond your business partnership?
I miss so many little places. It’s not just about big experiences.
GG: I feel like we were both handling quarantine equally well. OM: Both of us are working. I think I would torture her if I was at home all day. I’m probably going to be on the sofa and just watch movies all day, and that would annoy her a little bit. GG: Yeah, it would. Our marriage is great because we don’t have time to torture each other. I’m less naggy.
I guess your marriage is going to remain strong, because you’re not going to have downtime in the foreseeable future. GG: I don’t see any downtime for the next 30 years, maybe 40. Unless they have a frozen-food line, restaurant people don’t retire. OM: Yeah, whenever you feel bored, you’re like, “Let’s open another restaurant.” So you potentially could still open a third restaurant? OM: Yeah, definitely. GG: It’s like when you ask people about kids. One of them is like, “Two’s good.” The other is like, “Three might be OK.” And the other one is like, “Really”?
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L A M AG . C O M 25
Papa Istmeña “Think of it as Oaxacan mashed potatoes,” Bricia Lopez writes, in Oaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico, of this creamy, satisfying side dish. Lopez, the coowner of the beloved Koreatown Mexican restaurant Guelaguetza, adds that it’s hard to just have one scoop of the stuff, because the end result is a velvety masterpiece.
Sea salt 4 ½ pounds white potatoes 1 ½ cups carrots, peeled and chopped ½ cup peas 1 cup mayonnaise ⅞ cup Mexican crema 2 tablespoons yellow mustard ¼ cup minced white onion 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley 2 large eggs, beaten 1 pinch of ground nutmeg 1 pinch of freshly cracked black pepper
> Preheat the oven to 350°F. > Fill a large pot with salted water, add the potatoes and carrots, and bring to a boil. Cover and cook for about 30 minutes, or until tender. Remove from the pot and let cool. > Fill a small pot with salted water and add the peas, bring to a boil, and cook until the peas are tender, about 5 minutes. Remove peas from the pot and reserve. > When the potatoes are cool enough to handle, peel them with your hands. In a large mixing bowl, mash the potatoes with a masher. One by one, mix in the peas, carrots, mayonnaise, crema, mustard, onion, parsley, eggs, nutmeg, and pepper. > Butter a 4-quart baking dish and spread the potato mixture evenly. Cover with aluminum foil and bake on the middle rack of the oven for 45 minutes. Remove the aluminum foil and continue baking for 15 minutes. Let cool a little bit before serving. Serves 8. Reprinted from Oaxaca: Home Cooking from the Heart of Mexico. Copyright (c) 2020 by Bricia Lopez and the family behind LA’s Guelaguetza, with Javier Cabral. Photography by Quentin Bacon. Published by ABRAMS. 26 L A M AG . C O M
PAG E 24 : G E T T Y I M AG E S ; B O O KS T H R O U G H O U T: CO R I N A M A R I E H OW E L L
1 tablespoon butter, for greasing the baking dish
Drunken Noodle Pastrami (Pad Kee Mao) Thai noodles and deli meat might seem like an odd combo, but Night + Market’s chef and owner Kris Yenbamroong says it’s a wonderful mash-up. “Something about the combination of salty deli meats and drunken noodles makes perfect sense,” he writes in Night + Market: Delicious Thai Food to Facilitate Drinking and Fun-Having Amongst Friends.
1 ½ cups Thai seasoning sauce 1 cup oyster sauce 2 ½ tablespoons sugar 3 tablespoons vegetable oil ½ teaspoon minced fresh bird’s eye chiles ½ teaspoon minced garlic ¼ large red bell pepper, cut into strips 1 jalapeño pepper, seeded, cut into strips 8 ounces fresh wide rice noodles 6 ounces sliced pastrami (1⁄4 inch thick), cut into 1 × 2-inch ribbons Fish sauce Handful of Thai basil leaves Ground white pepper
> Make the stir-fry sauce. Combine Thai seasoning sauce, 1 cup oyster sauce, and 1 ½ tablespoons sugar in a bowl and whisk until the sugar has dissolved. (Extra sauce can be kept in an airtight container in the fridge indefinitely.) > Heat an empty wok overr a high flame until it begins to smoke, then swirl in the oil. Once the oil is shimmermerrd’s ing, add the garlic and bird’s eye chiles and stir until it becomes fragrant, just a few seconds. Add the bell pepp-fry per and jalapeño and stir-fry out until slightly softened, about 30 seconds. Quickly add the rice noodles, remaining taablespoon of sugar, and 2 tablespoons of the stir-fryy
sauce, tossing to coat evenly. > Once the noodles have absorbed most of the sauce, add the pastrami and toss again. Stir-fry until the meat is warmed through, and the noodles have developed a slight char, then remove from the heat. Add a splash of fish sauce, the basil leaves, a shake of white wh pepper, and toss again to combine. Serves 1 to 2. Reprinted from Night + Market. Copyright (c) 2017 by Kris Yenbamroong and Garrett Snyder. Photographs copyright (c) 2017 by Marcus Nilsson. Published by Clarkson Potter, an imprint of Penguin Random House, LLC. L A M AG . C O M 27
Roasted Ricotta-Stuffed Squash Blossoms with Tomato Vinaigrette “I had never seen beyond fried squash blossoms until a recent lunch in Tuscany, when a plate of squash blossoms came to the table not fried,” Nancy Silverton writes in Chi Spacca: A New Approach to American Cooking. “[Since] there was no batter covering them, I could really see and appreciate the delicate flower.” Here, Silverton shares a dish inspired by that meal.
1 pint small cherry tomatoes 3 tablespoons red wine vinegar ½ cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt 12 large squash blossoms, stems attached 1 cup fresh ricotta, preferably sheep’s milk 2 tablespoons heavy cream ¼ teaspoon fresh coarsely ground black pepper 6 fresh basil leaves, torn into small pieces
> Make the vinaigrette. Combine the cherry tomatoes and vinegar in the jar of a blender and purée. Put a mesh strainer over a medium bowl and strain the vinaigrette into the bowl. Gradually add ½ cup of extra-virgin olive oil in a thin stream, whisking constantly to emulsify the vinaigrette. If the mixture looks visibly separated, continue whisking until it is emulsified. Whisk in 1 teaspoon salt. > Prepare the squash blossoms. Preheat the oven to 350°F and adjust the oven 28 L A M AG . C O M
rack to the center position. > Trim the stems from the squash blossoms, leaving about 1 inch of the stems attached. > Stir the ricotta, cream, ½ teaspoon salt, and pepper together in a small bowl. Fit a large pastry bag with a ½-inch round tip, or cut a ½-inch hole in the tip of a disposable pastry bag. Spoon the ricotta mixture into the bag and push it toward the tip. Twist the top of the bag until it puts enough pressure on the ricotta that it squeezes out of the bottom of the bag. Place one squash blossom on your work surface and carefully open the petals with your fingers. Insert the piping bag into the opening and squeeze the bag gently to slowly release the ricotta mixture until the blossom is stuffed about three-quarters full. (Each squash blossom will be stuffed with about 1 tablespoon of ricotta.) Gently twist the top of the blossom to seal the ricotta into the flower and place it on a baking sheet. Stuff the remaining blossoms with the remaining ricotta mixture, adding them to the baking sheet in a single layer.
> Drizzle the remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil over the blossoms and bake them for about 3 minutes. To check for doneness, squeeze the flower gently to see if the cheese is warm. (The point is simply to warm the cheese, not cook the flowers.) Remove the baking sheet from the oven. > While the blossoms are in the oven, warm the vinaigrette in a small saucepan over low heat for 3 to 4 minutes, being careful not to let it come to a simmer. Turn off the heat. > To serve, pour the vinaigrette to cover the surface of a medium platter. Transfer the squash blossoms to the platter, and scatter the basil over them. Serves 4 to 6. Excerpted from Chi Spacca: A New Approach to American Cooking by Nancy Silverton with Ryan DeNicola and Carolynn Carreño. Copyright © 2020 by Nancy Silverton. Excerpted by permission of Alfred A. Knopf, a division of Penguin Random House LLC. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing.
Sautéed Peaches and Shishito Peppers with Goat Cheese, Cashews, and Saffron Honey “Peaches and shishito peppers seem an unlikely combination,” chef Josef Centeno writes in Bäco: Vivid Recipes from the Heart of Los Angeles. “But the ripe, floral fruit and the mildly peppery Japanese chile both peak in summer and are oddly great together—a little sweet with a little spice.”
browned, 3 to 4 minutes. > Pour off the butter from the pan and transfer the peaches and shishito peppers to a bowl. Toss with a pinch of salt and half of the lemon juice. Transfer half of the peaches and shishito peppers to a platter and sprinkle with half of each of the parsley, chervil, tarragon, cashews, and goat cheese. > Top with the remaining peaches and shishito peppers and sprinkle the
remaining parsley, chervil, tarragon, cashews, and goat cheese on top. Drizzle with the remaining lemon juice and ½ tablespoon of the saffron honey. (Remaining saffron honey will keep in a jar at room temperature for several weeks.) Serve immediately. Serves 4. Reprinted from Bäco by Josef Centeno and Betty Hallock with permission by Chronicle Books, 2017.
½ cup honey 2 teaspoons water ½ teaspoon saffron ¼ cup whole cashews 2 tablespoons butter 5 ripe peaches, pitted and cut into wedges 1 cup shishito peppers Salt to taste Juice of ½ lemon ⅓ cup fresh parsley leaves ⅓ cup fresh chervil ⅓ cup fresh tarragon leaves 3 tablespoons crumbled fresh goat cheese
> Make the saffron honey. In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, bring honey, water, and saffron thread to a simmer. Simmer for 30 seconds, then immediately remove from heat. Strain into a small lidded jar and discard the seeds. > Heat the oven to 350°F. Spread the nuts in a single layer on a small baking dish and place on a middle rack in the oven. Roast, stirring the nuts once for even cooking, until toasty and fragrant, 12 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven. When cool enough to handle, coarsely chop and set aside. > Heat the butter in a frying pan over medium-high heat. When the butter melts and begins to foam, add the peaches and shishito peppers and sear, turning once with a spatula, until the edges are well L A M AG . C O M 29
RaspberryMochi Butter Cake with Matcha Glaze This lovely dessert has a unique texture with a “mochi-like bite,” chef Margarita Manzke writes in Baking at République. Plus it’s “so easy to make—you dump everything into a bowl and mix.”
BUTTER CAKE 2 ¼ cups plus 1 tablespoon (320 grams) glutinous rice flour, preferably Mochiko brand 1 ½ cups plus 2 tablespoons (325 grams) granulated sugar 1 ½ teaspoons (6 grams) baking powder ¼ cup (55 grams) unsalted butter, melted 2 eggs ¾ cup coconut milk 1 ¾ cups evaporated milk 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 2 cups (260 grams) raspberries
M AT C H A G L A Z E 2 cups plus 1 tablespoon (250 grams) confectioners’ sugar ¼ cup whole milk 1 ½ teaspoons (3.75 grams) matcha powder
> Make the butter cake. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line the bottom of a 9-inch round cake pan with parchment paper and coat the sides of the pan with cooking spray. > In a large bowl, whisk together the rice flour, granulated sugar, and baking powder. Set aside. > In another bowl, whisk together the butter, eggs, coconut milk, evaporated milk, and vanilla. Pour the wet ingredients into the bowl with the dry ingredients and 30 L A M AG . C O M
whisk until incorporated. > Pour the batter into the prepared pan and place 1 ½ cups (95 grams) of the raspberries randomly on top, pushing each one down into the batter until submerged. > Bake until golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean; the center of the cake should be firm, 50 to 60 minutes. Transfer to a cooling rack. After the cake has cooled slightly, run a knife around the inside edge of the pan and then invert the cake onto the cooling rack. > Make the matcha glaze. Put the confectioners’ sugar, milk, and matcha powder in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a whisk attachment. Whisk until smooth. Set aside.
> Put the cake on a serving plate or cake stand, bottom-side up. Pour the glaze on top and spread it with a spatula so it drips down the sides. Garnish the top with the remaining ½ cup (65 grams) of raspberries. Slice and serve immediately. Store the cake in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days. Reprinted with permission from Baking at Republique by Margarita Manzke, copyright (c) 2019. Published by Lorena Jones Books, a division of Penguin Random House, Inc. Photographs copyright © Kristin Teig
n WE LOOK FORWARD TO WHEN WE CAN GATHER TOGETHER AGAIN o
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HOT TABLES
starter. 4321 W. Flamingo Rd., Palms, palms.com
La Strega O Gina Marinelli is rewriting
BY ANDY WANG
The Mayfair Supper Club
The Slanted Door
O Dazzling performances
O Louis Vuitton. Spring rolls.
with singers, dance numbers, and a band transport you to a time when nightlife wasn’t about DJs dropping a beat. Chef Wesley Holton completes the time warp with grand throwback dishes like lobster thermidor and beef Wellington. This hot spot is all about old-school glamour, but the view of Bellagio’s famous fountains will remind you that you’re also in the middle of the Strip right now. 3600 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Bellagio, themayfairlv.com
Armani. Shaking beef. Balenciaga. Clay-pot chicken. You can find it all at the Forum Shops now that San Francisco chef Charles Phan has opened an outpost of his beloved modern Vietnamese restaurant here. The street-level stunner has a truly prime location: guests can sip citrus-forward cocktails while gazing out a big window that overlooks the action. 3500 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Forum Shops at Caesars Palace, slanteddoor-lasvegas.com
Best Friend
Majordomo Meat & Fish
O Street-food legend Roy
O David Chang says his newest
Choi has brought his L.A. funk to Park MGM, where he’s serving his famous Kogi shortrib tacos and Chego pork-belly bowl while also offering caviar with tostada shells and salsa. This is a restaurant with a kimchi room in the kitchen, so naturally the menu includes banchan, kimchi fried rice, and large pots of resplendent stews like kimchi jjigae loaded with pork belly and tofu. 3770 S. Las Vegas Blvd., parkmgm.mgmresorts.com
blockbuster restaurant, which opened in December, is “built on the DNA of Majordomo in L.A.,” but there are plenty of Las Vegas twists. An elaborate prime-rib cart rolls out racks of Creekstone Farms beef with all the fixings, and there are tanks of live crustaceans, should you be looking to bet big on a Maine lobster or an Alaskan king crab. You can also splurge on a $90 French dip with black truffles or a $160 Hokkaido Wagyu strip
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steak, also with truffles. 3325 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Palazzo, venetian.com
Mott 32 O This is as dramatic and fla-
vorful as upscale Chinese food gets in Sin City. The applewood-roasted Peking duck, cooked in a brick oven, is a crispy, perfectly rendered masterpiece that’s sliced tableside and served with almost miraculously thin steamed pancakes. Executive chef Alan Ji’s dim sum includes hot-andsour soup dumplings filled with Iberico pork. There’s even spicy, silky mapo tofu served with a one-and-a-half-pound lobster. 3325 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Palazzo, venetian.com
Block 16 Urban Food Hall O With outposts of sensations such as Hattie B’s Hot Chicken from Nashville, and Lardo from Portland, the Cosmopolitan’s flavor-packed food hall proves that quick-service dining can be as spectacular as a meal at any fancy restaurant. For an evening mescal-andnachos fix, look for a secret door that takes you into the Ghost Donkey bar, a moody New York import. 3708 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Cosmopolitan, cosmopolitanlasvegas.com
Kamu O If you’ve ever wanted to
Sara’s O Michael Symon’s jewel-box
supper club, hidden inside Mabel’s BBQ restaurant, is a fun hang that’s all about oldschool elegance. The Dover sole is filleted tableside, and there’s a prime-rib cart and retro desserts like cherries jubilee. The waiters wear tuxedos, but don’t be afraid to get your hands dirty if you order the crispy beef bones as a
belt out your favorite anthem after loosening your belt to eat a 48-ounce Wagyu tomahawk steak, you’ll enjoy the way nightlife and food blend at this karaoke destination. Other bangers on Chef Chris Oh’s menu include Korean short-rib tacos and wasabi honey walnut shrimp. Caviar and bottle service are also available, of course. 3377 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Grand Canal Shoppes, kamukaraoke.com
O P P O S I T E , C LO C KW I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: B E ST F R I E N D : T R AV I S J E N S E N ; M O M O F U KU M E AT & F I S H : A N D R E W B E Z E K ; SA R A’ S : CO U RT E SY SA R A’ S ; H AT T I E B ’ S N AS H V I L L E H OT C H I C K E N : CO U RT E SY T H E B LO C K 1 6 U R B A N FO O D H A L L , L A ST R E G A : RYA N H A F E Y; M OT T 3 2 : CO U RT E SY M OT T 3 2
THE CULINARY SCENE IN LAS VEGAS CONTINUES TO HEAT UP, WITH BIG NAME CHEFS, BUSTLING FOOD HALLS, AND DECADENT DINING ROOMS. ONCE A GAMBLE, EATING WELL IN SIN CITY IS NOW A SURE BET
the trattoria playbook with what might be the best pasta dish in the city—the spectacular rigatoni bolognese with wild boar and spicy ’nduja—at this hot spot in Summerlin, a 20-minute drive from the Strip. Other compelling reasons why this restaurant is worth a detour: crowd-pleasing pizzas like the Spicy Pig—with soppressata and smoked mozzarella—and duck risotto arancini. 3555 S. Town Center Dr., Ste. 105, Summerlin, lastregalv.com
O C LO C KW I S E F R O M TO P L E F T: T H E D I N I N G R O O M AT B E ST F R I E N D ; E G G W I T H R O E F R O M M O M O F U KU M E AT & F I S H ; P R I M E R I B AT SA R A’ S ; SA N DW I C H E S F R O M H AT T I E B ’ S N AS H V I L L E H OT C H I C K E N I N T H E B LO C K 1 6 U R B A N FO O D H A L L ; A CO LO R F U L CO C KTA I L AT L A ST R E G A ; A N D T H E S I G N AT U R E AU ST R A L I A N LO B ST E R AT M OT T 3 2
O GRILLED W H O L E O RATA AT A L I M E N TO
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CHILD’S PLAY WANT TO EXPLORE THE DELICIOUS BOUNTY OF SANTA BARBARA COUNTY? LET JULIA CHILD BE YOUR GUIDE!
BY HAILEY EBER
Costco
In-N-Out Burger
7095 Market Place Dr., other locations, costco.com “She was someone who enjoyed a good meal—it didn’t have to be expensive or fancy,” says Spivey. “She really thought the Costco hot dogs were good.”
4865 Calle Real, other locations, in-n-out.com Another humble favorite of the gourmand, who typically ordered a double cheeseburger, fries, and a milkshake. Spivey says, “She really felt like the quality of the In-N-Out burger was quite high versus McDonald’s.”
J U L I A C H I L D M I G H T be best known
3 4 L A M AG . C O M
McConnell’s Fine Ice Creams 728 State St., mcconnells.com
La Super-Rica Taqueria 622 N. Milpas St., 805-963-4940 Child made this taco joint famous when she covered it on Good Morning America in the 1980s. Whenever she went, they would treat her like a queen and bring out a number of dishes—from tacos to enchiladas— though Mexican fare wasn’t always her favorite. “There are certain ingredients of Mexican food that she didn’t like,” says Spivey. “Interestingly enough, she didn’t really savor cilantro.”
I L LU S T R AT I O N BY J O S I E P O RT I L L O
“She had a bit of a sweet tooth,” says Spivey. At the original location of this beloved scoop purveyor, which now has outlets throughout Southern California, she tended to order vanilla with various toppings. “But,” Spivey adds, “I think she liked almost any flavor.”
J U L I A C H I L D : N E W YO R K T I M E S CO. /G E T T Y I M AG E S
co for bringing French cooking to the masses, but she was a California Californ girl at heart. i Pasadena, the legBorn and raised in endary gourmand often o summered with her family along th the California coast. She Monteci in her later years, belived in Montecito aw in 2004. fore passing away B “Santa Barbara spoke to her,” says Eric Spivey, chairman of the Julia Child Found dation for Gastronomy and Culinary Arts and a longtime friend. Next year, the foundation will be a partner in the first Santa Barbara Culinary Experience (sbce.events): the three-day event, March 12 to 14, will feature dozens of meals, cooking classes, and festivities. Until then, you can get a taste of Child’s love for the area with this map of her favorite places to eat. “She just never stopped being interested in meeting people, knowing people, doing things,” says Spivey, who regularly took the culinary icon to eat around Santa Barbara County toward the end of her life. “She was just a joy.”
San Ysidro Ranch 900 San Ysidro Ln., sanysidroranch.com “It’s a romantic spot. JFK and Jackie had their honeymoon there,” says Spivey. Child especially liked the resort’s Plow & Angel restaurant. “It’s very cozy. There was a tortilla soup that she really liked.”
Pane e Vino
Lucky’s
The Nugget
1482 E. Valley Rd., panevinosb.com “It’s just a wonderful, quaint, small Italian restaurant,” says Spivey. “All of their pastas, she just absolutely adored.”
1279 Coast Village Rd., luckys-steakhouse.com “It’s a classic steak house,” says Spivey. “She loved a great prime rib or a rib eye . . . [as well as] a good martini or a glass of red wine.”
2318 Lillie Ave., nuggetbarandgrill.com “It’s kind of a saloon. Nothing fancy—good hamburgers and cocktails—and she would go there and just really have fun,” says Spivey, who notes that Ronald Reagan was also a fan.
Robitaille’s Fine Candies 900 Linden Ave., robitaillescandies.com “It’s a throwback,” says Spivey. It has “all the candy that you would have seen in the 1950s and ’60s. It’s a really, really fun place to visit.”
Santa Barbara Farmers Market 119 E. Cota St., sbfarmersmarket.org It was “a ritual for her,” says Spivey. Even in her later years, when Child was cooking fairly infrequently, she would go every Saturday. “She had certain vendors that she would speak with,” says Spivey, who notes that Child was especially fond of berries in season.
Paradise Cafe 702 Anacapa St., paradisecafe.com Child loved to get a burger from this decadesold restaurant. Spivey recalls how, when Child was recovering from surgery, the then-owner of the café took a burger to her in the hospital.
Santa Barbara Shellfish Company 230 Stearns Wharf, shellfishco.com The famed chef would pick up fresh fish from this spot at the end of the wharf. She also loved its chowder.
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TASTE 2020 ISSUE
THE BEST OF THE SEASON Fresh Tastes from Our Chefs
Locals weigh in On Cocktails, Noodles and The Hall Global Eatery
southcoastplaza.com 1
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Water Grill 949.208.7060 2 southcoastplaza.com
Honeymoon Oyster
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TASTE VOLUME 40 2020 ISSUE Editor Lee Healy
It’s good to be back. We’ve missed the daily rhythm of life—spending time with extended family and friends, going to work, the leisurely pursuits of shopping, dining and entertainment. But most of all, we’ve missed our cherished community. Throughout the past few months, I was impressed by the resiliency of our restaurants. More than a dozen opened for curbside pickup and delivery, staying positive and providing a much-needed service of their specialty dishes for guests to take home. We’re happy that they have returned to serving us, while respecting all guidelines for safety. As we enter into a new chapter, South Coast Plaza will be at the forefront of businesses ensuring guests a safe and comfortable shopping experience. In closing, I’d like to share a quote I have found inspirational: “Everything that is done in the world is done by hope.” These words were written 500 years ago by German theologian Martin Luther. Here’s to the indomitability of the human spirit.
Contents
8 BOUNTY OF THE SEASON South Coast Plaza’s chefs make memorable dishes with seasonal produce
19 NOODLES: THE WORLD’S MOST COMFORTING FOOD Four Asian restaurants that will satisfy carb cravings
20 PALATE DAZZLING COCKTAILS Fresh, original libations
Debra Gunn Downing Executive Director, Marketing South Coast Plaza
22 IT’S ALL AT THE HALL A day at South Coast Plaza’s newest restaurant
29 THE ARTS Visual and performing arts partners Thank you to Melissa’s World Variety Produce for supplying premium produce for the cover and chefs’ recipes.
30 AT A GLANCE Restaurant amenities, map and South Coast Plaza services southcoastplaza.com 3
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Hamamori 714.850.0880
Discover sushi of the highest order at Hamamori, renowned for elite interpretations of Japanese cuisine and signature sushi gems by master chef James Hamamori. Premium sake and whisky are sourced with connoisseurs in mind.
4 southcoastplaza.com
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Chef’s Omakase by James Hamamori southcoastplaza.com 5
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Boudin | SF 714.689.2253
The Purist Avocado Toast
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Nikutama Udon—made-to-order Japanese Sanuki Udon served with Sweet Flavored Beef, Soft Boiled Egg and Kake Sauce
Marugame Udon 714.619.5688 southcoastplaza.com 7
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BOUNTY OF THE
Season
Nothing revs up a chef ’s imagination like a change of seasons. Mother Nature is their muse and she turns on the charm come summer. Here’s how South Coast Plaza’s top chefs embrace the season’s loveliest gifts. BY G R E TC H EN K U R Z
Knife Pleat’s Tony Esnault creates seasonal poetry on a plate. Diligent sourcing yields treasures like the asparagus he finesses with his knowing, graceful technique that teases out the essence of flavor. Procedure Clean the asparagus (from top to bottom) with a knife. Divide into 3 equal bundles
and tie with kitchen twine. Bring a gallon of water to a boil in a large pot; once boiling, add the coarse salt. The water should taste like the sea. Place the asparagus K N I F E P L E AT
Chef Tony Esnault
Green Asparagus with Parmesan Shavings - 36 green asparagus - 2 oz coarse salt (for blanching) - 3 tablespoons aged white balsamic* Melange of vegetables prep - ½ cup extra virgin olive oil - 1 shallot - Pinch of pepper and salt - 1 ½ oz Parmigiano-Reggiano - Sea salt - Coarse-ground black pepper - Optional garnish: thinly shaved raw green asparagus
8 southcoastplaza.com
Chef’s table place-setting
Bernardaud Organza Charger, Bloomingdale’s
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bundles in the boiling water to cook. This should take between 3-5 minutes depending on the thickness—the asparagus should remain firm; check while cooking. Once done, stop the cooking process by placing asparagus in a cold ice bath which preserves a beautiful green color. No need to rinse. Strain and dry on a clean cloth. Prepare the vinaigrette in a bowl with a pinch of salt and pepper. Finely chop the shallot and add 3 tablespoons of white balsamic vinegar, then the EVOO. Whisk together; taste for seasoning. Shave the Parmesan with a vegetable peeler or mandoline and season. For the optional garnish, thinly shave raw green asparagus with either a vegetable peeler or mandoline; set aside. Reheat the asparagus for a few seconds in boiling water. Strain and dry on a kitchen towel. Divide the asparagus among six flat plates, add the optional garnish and drizzle with the vinaigrette and Parmesan shavings. Add a light sprinkle of coarse-ground black pepper and finishing salt. Chef’s Note Tony Esnault prefers the plumper Delta variety of asparagus when available as well as the freshest and organic choices in the local or farmers markets. White asparagus require different cooking techniques.
L’Objet Perlée White Dessert Plate, Bloomingdale’s
*White balsamic vinegar may be found at Sur La Table or Williams Sonoma. It is a milder and slightly less-sweet version of the classic dark balsamic.
Strawberry-Pistachio Tart Critics have described pastry chef Germain Biotteau’s desserts as “stunning,” “formidable” and “spectacular.” His creations are the perfect complement to boss Tony Esnault’s of-the-moment seasonal
cooking. Biotteau tempers high technique with poetic creativity inspired by nature’s calendar. Here, Biotteau’s strawberrypistachio tart recalls summer flavors. A subtle sugary crust layered with smooth pistachio filling is topped with juicy strawberries and finished with sweet berry glaze. For the strawberry-pistachio tart recipe, please visit southcoastplaza.com/dining southcoastplaza.com 9
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BOUNTY OF THE SEASON
The intrepid and confident Amar Santana brings his lively touch to The Hall Global Eatery, delighting fans with bold creations like Tasting of Hummus, an imaginative sampler with flavors that surprise. Classic Hummus To make garlic confit: Place peeled garlic cloves in olive oil so they are completely submerged, then cook on low until garlic is super soft. Strain garlic from oil. Reserve oil for another use. Place all ingredients, including softened garlic, in a food processor and blend until smooth. Add a small amount of water if too thick. Taste and adjust seasoning, lemon juice and tahini to your preference.
Spicy Hummus Add to classic hummus recipe: - 2 tablespoons piquillo pepper, drained and coarsely chopped - 2 teaspoons sambal oelek
T H E H A L L G L O B A L E AT E R Y
Chef Amar Santana
Procedure Add piquillo pepper and sambal oelek to the classic hummus in a food processor; mix well. Texture must be smooth. Taste for spice level— add more sambal if desired. For Amar Santana’s three additional recipes for beet, edamame and kimchi hummus, and his instructions for plating, please visit southcoastplaza.com/dining White Square Slate Cheese Board, CB2 Exclusive
Melange of vegetables prep
Classic Hummus - 5 large garlic cloves for garlic confit - 3 tablespoons olive oil - 15 oz. can of chickpeas (garbanzo beans), drained and rinsed, or 1 ½ cups cooked chickpeas - ¼ cup fresh lemon juice - ¼ cup tahini - ½ teaspoon salt - ¼ teaspoon ground coriander - ¼ teaspoon ground, toasted cumin
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Chef’s table place-setting
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BOUNTY OF THE SEASON
Heirloom Tomato Salad with Burrata - 4–6 ripe heirloom tomatoes, assorted varieties of different sizes (unrefrigerated) - 1 lb. burrata cheese - 10 torn basil leaves - 2 tablespoons saba vinegar* - 3–4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil - Espelette pepper* - Optional garnish: micro basil, borage blossoms
TERRACE BY MIX MIX
Chef Ross Pangilinan Halley White Low Soup Bowl, CB2 Exclusive
Ross Pangilinan, chefproprietor of Terrace by Mix Mix, is acclaimed for his poised, approachable cuisine. Whether it’s a comfort dish of handmade pasta or a hyper-seasonal heirloom tomato salad, expect to be wowed by his light touch with vivid flavors. Procedure Cut tomatoes into random bite-size wedges and shapes and spread out into four separate shallow bowls or plates. Place spoonfuls of burrata cheese randomly
on the cut tomatoes, about three-four spoons per serving. Spread around the hand-torn basil and optional micro basil so that there will be basil in every bite. Drizzle saba vinegar and a good amount of EVOO over the tomatoes and cheese. Season with sea salt and pepper to taste. *Saba vinegar, also known as “vin cotto,” is a sweet unfermented syrup made from the must of Trebbiano grapes. Balsamic vinegar may be substituted if reduced until slightly syrupy.
*Espelette pepper is made from chiles from the Basque region of France and has a nuanced heat. Optional substitute is a small amount of crushed red pepper. southcoastplaza.com 11
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The Capital Grille 714.432.1140
When occasions call, The Capital Grille delivers, with dry aged steaks cut daily in-house, premium seafood, and distinguished wines. Guests return time and again for the reďŹ ned surroundings and the indulgent, signature service.
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Dry Aged 32 oz. Porterhouse Steak, French Beans with Heirloom Tomatoes, Lobster Mac ’N’ Cheese southcoastplaza.com 13
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Champagne French Bakery Cafe 714.427.0808/714.429.1502 14 southcoastplaza.com
Mixed Berry Chicken Salad, Macarons
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Milk and Dark Chocolate Dipped Strawberries, Small Custom Chocolate Gift Box
Godiva Chocolatier 714.556.9055 southcoastplaza.com 15
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Seasons 52 714.437.5252
Inventive takes on nature’s bounty is the specialty of Seasons 52, where the ingenious menu is matched with explorative wines. Don’t miss the city’s only piano bar, a spirited choice for lounging over cocktails with a live soundtrack every night.
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Filet Mignon and Maine Lobster Tail, Ahi Tuna Tartare
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Din Tai Fung 714.549.3388 18 southcoastplaza.com
Vegetable & Mushroom Dumplings
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Bloggers' Picks : Food & Drink
Noodles: The World’s Most
BENJAMIN EPSTEIN @benjamin.epstein
Noodles—something wondrous happens when soft and firm ideally intersect. Chewy, supple, resilient; is there anything more satisfying? Thick or thin, round or flat, but always long, the staple has been refined by Asian cultures for thousands of years—and marvelous examples abound at South Coast Plaza.
Comforting Food
Slurpy Kurobuta pork fried noodles—handmade, liberally, lusciously coated in greenonion oil and a house-made soy sauce—are topped with napa cabbage, spinach and crisped succulent strips of pork at renowned Taiwanese dumpling destination Din Tai Fung.
root and Japanese pumpkin for dipping.
The nabeyaki udon with chicken at elegant sushi haven Hamamori Restaurant & Sushi Bar is a refined study in contrasts: large yielding noodles, crisped rectangles of tofu, colorful half-moon fish cakes—and delicate tempura, including lotus
Hefty wheat noodles are kneaded and rolled as you watch at Marugame Udon. Toss its mentai kamatama udon—slightly poached egg, cod roe, dried seaweed and a special dashi-shoyu sauce— for a briny, sumptuous, carbonara-like experience.
An’s Famous Garlic Noodles has long been a signature at seductive AnQi by House of AN. Pairing the sticky, golden, decidedly garlicky and addictive noodles with exquisite roasted Maine lobster is a millennia matchup.
Noodle dishes (left to right): Mentai kamatama udon at Marugame Udon. Kurobuta pork fried noodles at Din Tai Fung. Whole pan-roasted Maine lobster with An’s Famous Garlic Noodles at AnQi by House of AN. Nabeyaki udon at Hamamori Restaurant & Sushi Bar. southcoastplaza.com 19
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Accessorize your shopping with these cocktails
palate-dazzling
GREG NAGEL @ocbeerblog
The Jeanne Paquin, created by beverage director Victor Moreno at Knife Pleat, evokes a certain je ne sais quoi with its complexity. The French Armagnac sour-based cocktail, served in a long-stemmed coupe glass, is topped with a velvety meringue-like cap and a swirl of bitters. Mme. Paquin, the drink’s namesake, was France’s first significant female couturier and a pioneer of the modern fashion business. It’s balanced by a slight sweetness from Floc de Gascogne, a liqueur with floral notes of jasmine, roses and honey. Settle in at The Hall’s spacious bar and it’s tough to choose from beverage director Michael Rooney’s inventive cocktail list. Yu Rebel is akin to a soft pink lei of hibiscus flowers draped around notes of cherry and apple blossom—the result of blending Japanese Roku
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gin and French Calvados. Its fresh mint and pinch of black lava sea salt finish conjures up tropical vacation memories. Is there a more recognizable cocktail than the Cosmo? Its simplicity of ingredients and the bright rouge color are synonymous with “Sex and the City” and fashion week. Seasons 52’s Hawaiian Pineapple Cosmopolitan is crafted with pineapple vodka, giving the drink a fresh Islands spin. Over at the popular Water Grill Piccadilly Circus is based on the Wimbledon classic, Pimm’s Cup, but goes a step further. Equal parts Pimm’s No.1 is blended with Italy’s Aperol, making for a perfectly brunchable drink that also pairs well with the extensive raw bar and sushi menu. It’s served tall and thin, with a spa-like cucumber garnish.
The Capital Grille takes a grand approach to the classic Old Fashioned with its In Fashion. A jigger of Grand Mariner lends an orchard of citrus aromatics on top of Russell’s Reserve Single Barrel Bourbon with its telltale caramel and vanilla notes. Black walnut bitters are stirred in the mix, adding a luscious nutty-cola vibe. Seabirds Kitchen’s comfortvegan cuisine met its match when noted cocktail consultant Emily Delicce, aka “Shrub Queen,” created a bar menu to match the fresh, seasonal bites. Bird’s the Word applies organic raspberry that’s been preserved into a shrub and is layered with lower ABV vodka and bittersweet, complex Cocci Rosa. The frothy vegan-friendly foam is stenciled with the restaurant’s whimsical bird logo.
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Knife Pleat: Jeanne Paquin
Seabirds Kitchen: Bird’s the Word
The Hall: Yu Rebel
Water Grill: Piccadilly Circus
The Capital Grille: In Fashion
southcoastplaza.com 21 Seasons 52: Hawaiian Pineapple Cosmopolitan
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It’s All at
The Hall
D AV I D C H I E M @davidthefoodie
The Hall is spacious, inviting and tastefully decorated with warm wood tones, modern lighting and an understated Moroccan vibe from accent pieces.
Photo: Sarah King
The food options in Orange County never cease to amaze me. Everyone who follows the local restaurant scene was excited about the opening of chef Amar Santana and business partner Ahmed Labatte’s latest project, The Hall Global Eatery. It finally debuted earlier this year at South Coast Plaza, and I couldn’t wait to see it for myself.
The quick-service Patisserie is a great way to start the day. Fresh pressed juices, wellness shots and a complete coffee bar are complemented by freshly baked pastries and cookies.
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I had some time to relax and took my oat milk latte out to The Hall’s patio, enjoying the breeze under the olive trees. One bite into Amar’s pineapple-coconut cake and I was hooked.
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I ordered the shawarma chicken combo platter on saffron rice, liberally drizzled with Santana’s proprietary (and fiery) sauces, with sides of tabbouleh and Greek salad. So good. The food was served to order, quick and full of flavor.
For a fast-casual lunch, don’t miss the Mediterranean Grill. My sight immediately fixated on the vertical spits of slow-turning roasted meat—chicken, beef and lamb. Thin slices of meat are artfully carved for platters or sandwiches.
Cocktail king Michael Rooney is held in high regard for his creative libations. He did not disappoint. I took a seat at the spacious bar and sampled some outstanding drinks, with False King and Winter Rose being particularly memorable.
Photo: Sarah King
Crudo offers all sorts of pristine seafood beautifully displayed. The star dish was the Peruvian scallops. I could not get enough of the delicious coconut-lime sauce that perfectly drenched the scallops.
Outdoor seating offers a private escape for those who are seeking a moment to unwind and enjoy a bite and libation al fresco. southcoastplaza.com 23
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OPEN FOR SUMMER There’s no better time to be cooking. Prepare your kitchen for the freshest, ripest, most colorful produce available all year with a few new tools and tips that set you up for delicious dining all summer long. M A K E M O R E GATH ER O F TEN ™ V I S I T U S AT S O U T H C OA S T P L A Z A 3 3 3 3 B E A R S T R E E T, C O S TA M E S A , C A 7 1 4 . 24 1 . 0 1 1 8
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Wahoo’s Fish Taco 714.549.0565 26 southcoastplaza.com
Protein Bowl with Shrimp and Chicken, Guavarita
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Choose Two: Power Greens & Grains Salad and Shrimp Scampi Linguine. availability subject to change
Corner Bakery 714.966.2404/714.546.1555 southcoastplaza.com 27
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Terrace by Mix Mix 657.231.6447
Weekend Brunch—Duck and French Toast, Bottomless Mimosas
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THE ARTS performance dates
VISUAL ARTS
Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall
Garden, 2020 Kyungmi Shin
scfta.org or 714.556.2787
ORANGE COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART OCMA.NET OR 949.759.1122 Current Exhibitions
PERFORMING ARTS The 2020–2021 scheduled performing arts season is robust with Broadway, original plays, ballet, symphonies and jazz, but many engagements have been rescheduled. Please check the websites of South Coast Plaza’s performing arts partners for the latest updates as well as online and virtual activities offered.
SCR.ORG PACIFICSYMPHONY.ORG PHILHARMONICSOCIETY.ORG
Orange County Museum of Art’s new season opens July 16 at OCMAExpand, its interim space at South Coast Plaza Village. Three new exhibitions from Pacific Rim artists focus on identity and cultural legacy though language and narratives, both personal and legendary. The works of Marsia Alexander-Clarke, Maryrose Cobarrubias Mendoza and Kyungmi Shin represent the cultural diversity of Chile, the Philippines and South Korea. An exhibition from OCMA’s permanent collection, “An Earth Song, A Body Song: Figures with Landscape” is also on view.
LAGUNA ART MUSEUM LAGUNAARTMUSEUM.ORG 949.494.8971 Wayne Thiebaud: Clowns
Our Ocean’s Edge
October 11, 2020– January 10, 2021
October 11, 2020– January 10, 2021
BOWERS MUSEUM BOWERS.ORG OR 714.567.3600 Inside the Walt Disney Archives Through August 30, 2020
Treasures in Gold & Jade November 14, 2020– April 25, 2021
southcoastplaza.com 29
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AT A GLANCE legend KEY
Q Reservations Accepted Q Full Bar Q Outdoor Dining Q Private Dining Room Q Open Mornings Q Off-Site Catering
1. AnQi by House of AN
17. The Hall Global Eatery
33. Seabirds Kitchen
714.557.5679
714.515.5544
Q Q Q
Q Q Q Q Q
34. Seasons 52
Q Q Q Q 2. Antonello Espresso Café
714.557.5232
Q 3. Antonello Ristorante
714.751.7153
Q Q Q Q 4. Boudin|SF
714.689.2253
Q Q Q
18. Hamamori Restaurant & Sushi Bar
714.850.0880
Q Q Q Q
Q Q Q
35. See’s Candies
19. Knife Pleat
714.266.3388
Q Q Q Q 20. Lawry’s Carvery
714.434.7788
5. The Capital Grille
Q Q Q
714.432.1140
21. Leatherby’s Cafe Rouge
Q Q Q
714.437.5252
714.429.7640
714.850.1529
Q 36. See’s Candies Macy’s Home Store Wing
714.557.5948
Q 37. Starbucks Coffee
(in Macy’s Men’s Store) 714.556.0611 ext. 3105
6. Casa Barilla
Q Q Q Q
657.205.1025
22. Maggiano’s Little Italy
Q
38. Starbucks Reserve Coffee
714.546.9550
714.545.8306
7. Champagne French Bakery Cafe
Q Q Q Q Q
Q
23. Marugame Udon
39. Starbucks Reserve Coffee Macy’s Home Store Wing
714.429.1502
Q Q Q 8. Champagne French Bakery Cafe Garden Terrace
714.427.0808
Q Q Q 9. Claim Jumper
714.434.8479
Q Q Q Q 10. Corner Bakery
714.966.2404
949.863.9035 24. Mezzet Mediterranean Cuisine
714.540.3365
Q Q Q Q Q 25. Morton’s The Steakhouse
714.444.4834
Q Q Q Q 26. Nékter Juice Bar
949.340.2700
Q
949.244.2082
Q 40. Stonewall Kitchen Café & Cooking School
(in Macy’s Home Store) 714.513.3940
Q Q 41. Sugarfina
714.472.9529
Q Q Q
Q Q
11. Corner Bakery South Coast Plaza Village
27. Outpost Kitchen
714.546.1555
28. Philz Coffee
Q Q Q
657.231.6447
714.486.2731
43. Vaca
12. COSTA
Q Q
714.463.6060
714.852.3299
Q Q Q 13. Darya Fine Persian Cuisine
714.557.6600
Q Q Q Q Q 14. Din Tai Fung
714.549.3388
Q Q
Q Q Q Q Q
Q 42. TERRACE by Mix Mix
Q Q Q Q
29. Quattro Caffé
Q Q Q Q Q
714.754.0300
44. Wahoo’s Fish Taco
Q Q Q Q Q 30. Royal Khyber Fine Indian Cuisine
714.436.1010
Q Q Q 31. Ruby’s Diner
714.662.7829
714.549.0565
Q 45. Water Grill
949.208.7060
Q Q Q 46. Wolfgang Puck Kitchen
Opening Soon
Q Q Q
(in Macy’s) 714.545.5439
Q
32. Ruscello-Nordstrom South Coast Plaza
Q Q Q
16. Godiva Chocolatier
714.556.9055
714.850.2510
714.445.0013
Q
Q Q Q Q
Q Q
15. Dripp
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47. Yellow Vase
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AT A GLANCE map and services SOUTH COAST PLAZA VILLAGE
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13 3
W
A DR IVE
30 11
E
PLAZ
OCMA (until 2021)
S
25
PARKING
27
32 THE B RIDG EO FG AR DE NS
NORTH PARKING
8 THE GARDEN TERRACE
6 14 23
ST
DR
IVE
MACY’S MEN’S 37 STORE
BEAR STREET
38 9
29 2
46 20 47
OA HC UT
TOWN CENTER DRIVE 19
MACY’S
ANTHROPOLOGIE
SO
SEGERSTROM CENTER FOR THE ARTS
NORDSTROM
CRATE AND BARREL
SA TO N J LL OA RO QU AD IN (73 )
CENTER TOWER
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SAKS FIFTH AVENUE
41 35 16
SOUTH PARKING
10
4 17
PARK TOWER
UNITY BRIDGE
45
43
21
SOUTH COAST RENÉE AND HENRY SEGERSTROM REPERTORY CONCERT HALL
PARKING WESTIN
12
PLAZA TOWER
ANTON BOULEVARD 5 34
BLOOMINGDALE’S
1
SAN DIEGO FREEWAY (405)
NOGUCHI CALIFORNIA SCENARIO
FREEWAY (55)
24 42
PARKING
COSTA MESA
18
BRISTOL STREET
31
7 26
3420
22 36
PARKING
PARKING
39 44 33
28
SOUTH COAST PLAZA
AVENUE OF THE ARTS
40 MACY’S HOME FURNITURE STORE
PARK CENTER DRIVE
SUNFLOWER AVENUE
Concierge
Family Restroom
South Coast Plaza has four concierge location offering services such as complimentary face masks and bottled water, translation assistance and restaurant reservations. Hand sanitizer stations are available throughout the center.
South Coast Plaza’s family restroom, for parents with children under age eight, features three private nursing suites, a private changing facility and two restrooms. Level 1, Carousel Court.
The Stylist Project
Gift Cards
South Coast Plaza’s talented team of personal stylists offer the next level in customized service designed to create a seamless shopping experience for customers. More than 25 personal shoppers are available through prearranged appointments to assist with an array of helpful services—from wardrobe, accessories and beauty to home and gifting. Rates apply. Contact stylist@southcoastplaza.com for more information.
Available at all concierge locations and redeemable at South Coast Plaza’s 250 stores and restaurants, Segerstrom Center for the Arts, South Coast Repertory and The Westin South Coast Plaza.
Valet Parking Limited valet parking is available, please call individual restaurants for details.
South Coast Plaza 3333 Bristol Street, Costa Mesa, CA 92626 Located off the 405 San Diego Freeway at Bristol Street or the 73 San Joaquin Corridor at Bear Street 800.782.8888
Other Amenities Shoppers will find one-day optical services, watch battery replacement, ring sizing and simple tailoring available while they shop or dine.
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32 southcoastplaza.com 714.850.1529/714.557.5948
THE HOT LIST L.A. MAGAZINE
E B E R
T H E B R E A K D OW N
Birdie G’s
James Beard Award–nominated chef Jeremy Fox gets personal with a sunny new spot dedicated to comfort food and named after his three-year-old daughter. The high-low menu is full of playful riffs on comfort food, from a corned beef platter to a matzo ball soup with carrot miso, to a next-level relish tray. Don’t miss the jiggly rose-petal pie for dessert. 2421 Michigan Ave. (310-310-3616 or birdiegsla.com). D Wed.Mon. Full bar.
Broad Street Oyster Co.
MALIBU » Seafood $$
Christopher Tompkins, aka “the Oyster Man,” has found a permanent home for his popular pop-ups, bringing wonderfully fresh fish to an open-air spot overlooking Malibu Lagoon State Beach (and across from a SoulCycle, if we’re being honest). You can grab the lobster roll that first brought Tompkins acclaim, lots of raw seafood, great clam chowder, and a burger sprinkled with shio kombu (dried kelp) that shouldn’t be overlooked. 23359 Pacific Coast Hwy. (424-644-0131 or broadstreetoyster.com). L-D daily. Beer and wine.
» Southeast Asian $$$
Bryant Ng mines his Chinese Singaporean heritage, honors his wife Kim’s Vietnamese background, and works in the wood-grilling technique he honed at Mozza at this grand Southeast Asian brasserie. Hunker down at a table on the patio to devour roasted black cod with anchovy broth or chickpea curry with scallion clay-oven bread, or belly up to the raw bar for a dozen oysters with sambal cocktail sauce. 1314 7th St. (310393-6699 or cassiala.com). D nightly. Full bar.
Colapasta
H A I L E Y
WEST
SANTA MONICA » American $$
SANTA MONICA
BY
» Italian $
It’s equally pleasant to grab and go or eat at this quiet, affordable spot that features fresh pastas topped with farmers’ market fare. The colorful, poppy-seed-sprinkled beet ravioli is delicate and deli-
36 L A M AG . C O M
At press time, most restaurants had reopened post-lockdown, but we’ve included a few fave spots that remain takeout-only. W EST
Includes Beverly Hills, Brentwood, Century City, Culver City, Malibu, Marina del Rey, Mar Vista, Palms, Santa Monica, Venice, West L.A., Westwood
EAST
Includes Atwater Village, Eagle Rock, East L.A., Echo Park, Glendale, Los Feliz, Pasadena, San Gabriel Valley, Silver Lake
T H E VALLEY
DOWNTOWN
Includes Arts District, Bunker Hill, Chinatown, Historic Core, Little Tokyo, South Park
CENTRAL
Includes Beverly Grove, East Hollywood, Fairfax District, Hancock Park, Hollywood, Koreatown, West Hollywood
Includes Agoura Hills, Burbank, Calabasas, Encino, North Hollywood, Sherman Oaks, Studio City, Toluca Lake, Van Nuys
SOUT H
Includes Bell, Compton, Gardena, Hermosa Beach, Long Beach, Manhattan Beach, Torrance, Watts
Denotes restaurants with outdoor seating $ $$ $$$ $$$$
I N E X P E N S I V E (Meals under $10) M O D E R A T E (Mostly under $20) E X P E N S I V E (Mostly under $30) V E R Y E X P E N S I V E ($30 and above)
Price classifications are approximate and based on the cost of a typical main course that serves one. For restaurants primarily offering multicourse family meals, the cost per person of such a meal is used.
2020
cious, while the gramigna with pesto and ricotta is hearty and satisfying. 1241 5th St. (310-310-8336 or colapasta.restaurant). L-D Mon.-Sat. Beer and wine.
Felix
VENICE » Italian $$$
Evan Funke is a pasta purist who can slip Italian lessons into any meal. He now presides at Felix, a clubby, floral-patterned trattoria that occupies the former home of Joe’s in Venice. His rigatoni cacio e pepe, tubes of pasta adorned only with pecorino Romano cheese and black pepper, nods to Roman shepherds who used the spice to keep warm, while the rigatoni all’Amatriciana with cured pork cheek sings brilliantly alongside Italian country wines. 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd. (424-387-8622 or felixla.com). D nightly. Full bar.
Kato
SAWTELLE
» Cal-Asian $$$-$$$$
Jon Yao’s nine-to-ten-course tasting menu will cost you just $118—a solid deal. Even more impressive is the inventiveness of the food. Drawing influences from Taiwanese and Japanese cuisines, the seafooddriven tasting menu veers from luscious smoked hamachi in charred scallion sauce to soothing rice porridge thickened with dried scallops and crab—all served in a bare-bones strip mall space. 11925 Santa Monica Blvd. (424-535-3041 or katorestaurant.com). D Tue.-Sat. No alcohol.
Michael’s
SANTA MONICA
» California $$$$
Thirty-year-old Brian Bornemann has enlivened the 40-year-old institution with an exciting array of dishes that bring a global perspective to the idea of California cuisine. An aguachile inspired by Bornemann’s travels in Baja features wild yellowtail, while his tagliolini— punched up with fennel in various forms, from its juice to pollen to sautéed bulb—alludes to the chef’s time cooking at an osteria in Tuscany. 1147 3rd St. (310-4510843 or michaelssantamonica.com). D Mon.-Sat. Full bar.
n/naka PALMS » Japanese $$$$ Niki Nakayama’s acclaimed kaiseki restaurant has long been one of the city’s harder-to-score reservations, so
H A N N A VO N M A RT É N /CO U RT E SY B R OA D ST R E E T OYST E R CO.
E D I T E D
tessepor
Cassia
P. 36
OUR MONTHLY LIST OF L.A.’S MOST ESSENTIAL RESTAURANTS TA A U R A NTS
AUG
SANTA MONICA
The lobster roll at Broad Street Oyster Co.
naturally its takeout isn’t easy to get a hold of either. But if you do, you’re in for a treat. The $38 bento box with sushi includes an assortment of items such as grilled miso black cod, pan-fried shrimp with sesame aioli, sashimi, and matcha and white chocolate cake. The $85 kaiseki jubako features delicacies like braised Monterey Bay abalone and seared Wagyu salad. The restaurant opens up reservations for the takeout meals every Saturday at 10 a.m., and they’ve been going quickly. 3455 S. Overland Ave. (310-836-6252, nnaka.com, @nnakarestaurant). Takeout via Tock. 4:30-7 p.m. Tue.-Sat.
Pasjoli
SANTA MONICA » French $$$$
Dave Beran’s à la carte spot bucks the trends and eschews bistro clichés in favor of old-fashioned thrills—an elaborate pressed duck prepared just as Escoffier would have and served with potatoes au gratin dauphinois—and modern French fare. The showy duck must be reserved in advance as there are a limited number of birds available each night. But there are plenty of other exciting dishes on the menu, such as the chicken liver in brioche and a beef tartare spiked with nasturtium pesto. 2732 Main St. (424-330-0020 or pasjoli.com). D nightly. Full bar.
Pizzana BRENTWOOD
» Italian $$
It’s not easy to make over the local pie joint, but 35-year-old chef Daniele Uditi has reimagined an urban standby with equal parts purism and playfulness, becoming a neighborhood favorite in the process. Most impressive is the open-mindedness that has him deftly transforming the Roman pasta dish cacio e pepe into a pizza or putting a hearty short rib ragù on the Pignatiello pie. And in a real twist, appetizers and seasonal salads aren’t afterthoughts but highlights. The pizzeria is also making its famous, limited-edition sub sandwiches more readily available (check Instagram) and has been making free meals for doctors and nurses. 11712 San Vicente Blvd. (310-4817108, pizzana.com, @pizzana). Pickup and delivery via ChowNow. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. Also at 460 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood (310-657-4662).
Sichuan Impression WEST L.A. » Chinese $$ The Westside spin-off of the Alhambra original serves a selection of dishes intended to be nostalgia-inducing for expats of Chengdu, the largest city in China’s Sichuan province. The cooking balances spiciness with subtlety, showcasing a cuisine that tantalizes the tongue while foreheads perspire and lips go numb. The handmade wontons will make you understand why the dumplings are a crowd fave. 11057 Santa Monica Blvd. (310-444-7171, sichuanimpressions.com, @sichuan_impression_). Pickup and delivery via Postmates. 5-9:30 p.m. daily. Also at 1900 W. Valley Blvd., Alhambra (626-283-4622).
Yours Truly
VENICE » New American $$$
Vartan Abgaryan brings his penchant for culinary globe-trotting to Abbot Kinney with a menu of twists on established hits. Avocado “hummus,” spiked with a peanut-studded salsa macha, is scooped up with za’atar-dusted flatbread; fingerling potatoes replace pasta in a rich cacio e pepe. The kitchen’s freewheeling cooking is fun—if sometimes disorienting. 1616 Abbot Kinney Blvd. (310-396-9333 or ytvenice.com). D nightly; brunch Sat. and Sun. Full bar.
CO U RT E SY D E A R J O H N ’ S
DOWNTOWN Bäco Mercat » Mediterranean Fusion $$
blossoms. 408 S. Main St. (213-687-8808 or bacomercat .com). D Tues. - Sun. Full bar.
Badmaash HISTORIC CORE
» Indian $$
This Indian gastropub concept comes from the father-and-sons team of Pawan, Nakul, and Arjun Mahendro, who are all well versed in the culinary techniques of East and West. The menu features contemporary mash-ups like a version of poutine smothered in chicken tikka, spiced tandoori chicken wings, and a spicy lamb burger. If tradition’s your thing, you’ll be comforted by spice-stewed chickpeas, potato and pea samosas, and what they call “good ol’ saag paneer.” Wash it all down with carefully curated, reasonably priced natural wines. 108 W. 2nd St. (213221-7466, badmaashla.com, @badmaashla). Curbside pickup and delivery via Caviar and DoorDash. 12-9 p.m. daily. Beer and wine to go. Also at 418 N. Fairfax Ave., Fairfax District (213-281-5185). 4-7:30 p.m. Tue.-Sat.
Bavel ARTS DISTRICT
» Middle Eastern $$$
Husband-and-wife duo Ori Menashe and Genevieve Gergis’s follow-up to Bestia is sort of the Godfather II of restaurants. Fans fervently debate whether the first installment or the second is superior, but one thing is certain: dishes like grilled prawns with harissa marinade and slow-roasted lamb neck shawarma are delicious, as is the superb hummus and pita. 500 Mateo St. (213.232.4966 or baveldtlac.com). D nightly. Full bar.
WEST
Dear John’s CULVER CITY
Steak House $$$
› In 2019, Josiah Citrin and Hans Röckenwagner took over this former Sinatra hang with their menu of steak house classics—crab Louie, oysters Rockefeller, thick-cut prime steaks— that pay homage to the lounge’s Rat Pack past. In the wake of the shutdown, Röckenwagner recently finished building a patio with room for ten tables and paintings by Venice artist Gary Palmer that bring the clubby feel of the dining room outside. And there are new dishes on the menu, like a Salisbury steak. 11208 Culver Blvd. (310-881-9288 or dearjohnsbar.com). D nightly. Beer and wine.
Bestia ARTS DISTRICT
» Italian $$$
The good times keep rolling at this lively spot that put the Arts District on the foodie map. They’ve reopened with several new items on the menu, including a decadent lamb shank with morita peppers, raisins, creamy farro, and mint gremolata. But, fear not, classics like the bone marrow with spinach gnocchetti remain. 212 E. 7th Pl. (213-514-5724 or bestiala.com). D nightly. Full bar.
Broken Spanish
SOUTH PARK » Mexican $$$
At his modern Mexican-American spot near L.A. Live, Ray Garcia draws from myriad influences. A chile relleno is sauced with a soubise, while a tostada is topped with roasted beets and white bean hummus. With special house teas and coffees, Garcia pays tribute to the signature beverages with his own recipes. These deluxe ingredients heighten what’s already compelling: a chef fluent in the language of modern cooking who celebrates the family table. 1050 S. Flower St. (213-749-1460 or brokenspanish.com). D nightly. Full bar.
Guerrilla Tacos » Mexican $-$$
ARTS DISTRICT
Though Wes Avila swapped his acclaimed taco truck for a slick counter-service spot, Guerrilla Tacos’s menu has remained blessedly unchanged (mostly): potato taquitos, tempura-battered fish tacos, hamachi spackled onto a crunchy tostada. Avila’s complex salsas are still the best in town, while the cocktails provide another reason to visit—try the ahi tuna tostada paired with a rum-spiked yuzu lemonade. 2000 E. 7th St. (213-375-3300 or guerrillatacos.com). L Mon.-Sat.; D daily; brunch Sun. Full bar.
Lasa CHINATOWN
» Filipino $$
If you’ve followed the wave of new Filipino restaurants in the City of Angels, there’s a very good chance you’ve heard of brothers Chase and Chad Valencia. The cooking at their Far East Plaza restaurant exudes the sharp, resonant flavors of traditional Filipino food and the produce-driven aesthetic of California—Alice Waters filtered through Manila. Thoughtfully selected natural wines perfectly complement dishes like whole fried pompano fish. 727 N. Broadway, Ste. 120 (213-443-6163 or lasa-la.com). L Tue.-Sun.; D Wed.-Sun. Wine and beer.
M. Georgina » California $$$
ARTS DISTRICT
Michelin-starred San Francisco chef Melissa Perello has chosen ROW DTLA to open her first spot outside of the Bay Area. The market-driven restaurant employs unexpected contrasts and textures to distinguish itself from similar offerings out there. Hearty campanelle pasta with cotechino ragout gets a kick from a topping of raw arugula, while the erbette chard saag—a mix of hearty veggies, Indian spices, and housemade feta—makes a strong case for the ordering of a vegetarian entrée. ROW DTLA, 777 Alameda St., (213-334-4113 or mgeorgina.com). D Tue.-Sun. Full bar.
Q
FINANCIAL DISTRICT » Japanese $$$
Hiroyuki Naruke specializes in a profound style of Edoera sushi rarely seen stateside. Fish for the seasonal omakase menu is prepared with exactitude. Translucent wafers of Korean fluke are wrapped in kelp to cure, and lobes of uni are marinated in miso. Naruke’s magnum opus may be a luxuriant slice of tamagoyaki. The custardy omelet serves as dessert with just the right sweet note. 521 W. 7th St. (213-225-6285 or qsushila.com). L Tue.-Fri.; D Tue.-Sat. Beer, wine, and sake.
Redbird
HISTORIC CORE
HISTORIC CORE » New American $$$$
Josef Centeno’s flagship is now serving a limited menu to diners on its outdoor patio, as well as continuing to offer takeout and delivery. Go for classic Bäco creations like pickled beet salad or hamachi crudo with crushed avocado and hash browns as well as butternut squash
Neal Fraser has defined his own kind of L.A. elegance over the 20 years he’s been cooking in his native city. Setting up shop in the deconsecrated St. Vibiana Cathedral offered an opportunity to add theatrics to a space that’s contemporary, classically plush, and now
L A M AG . C O M 37
Rossoblu » Italian $$$
SOUTH PARK
It turns out you may want to rethink your idea of Bolognese sauce. At least, if you find yourself at Steve Samson’s restaurant in the City Market South development downtown. The chef has rigorously mastered the hand-rolled pastas, grilled meats, sausages, and salumi of the Emilia-Romagna region where he spent childhood summers with his grandmother. A flute of Lambrusco and pappardelle is transportive, but everyone is here for soulful tortellini en brodo or that stellar ragù Bolognese. 1124 San Julian St. (213-749-1099 or rossoblula.com). D Tue.-Sun. Full bar.
Shibumi HISTORIC CORE
» Japanese $$
Whether omakase or à la carte, David Schlosser focuses with Jedi determination on kappo cuisine, which in Japanese means something like “to cut with a kitchen knife and cook with fire.” The chinmi, or “rare tastes,” might include fermented spot prawn and a sashimi dish that includes the sea bream skin and sauce. Details reflect the chef, extending to the centuries-old cypress bar, glasses with thread-thin stems, and dishes served in Meiji-era bowls in an intimate 40-seat setting. 815 S. Hill St. (213-265-7923 or shibumidtla.com). D Tue.-Sun. Full bar.
Sonoratown
Antico
FASHION DISTRICT
» Mexican $
LARCHMONT VILLAGE » Italian $-$$
At this downtown spot known for its flour tortillas, you can order à la carte or opt for affordable familystyle takeout options to make your own tacos, burritos, or chimichangas filled with chorizo, carne asada, or mesquite-grilled chicken. Wash it all down with a six-pack of Tecate or seasonal aguas frescas. 208 E. 8th St. (213-628-3710, sonoratown.com, @sonoratownla). Curbside pickup by calling the restaurant; takeout and delivery via Caviar. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. Beer to go.
CENTRAL
Take comfort. Some of the city’s best ice cream is now available to pick up. Chef Chad Colby has converted his East Larchmont Italian restaurant into a takeout spot for foccacia pizzas and ice cream, fashioning a makeshift pizza oven with the plancha top that used to sit on the restaurant’s hearth. The ice cream has a wonderfully smooth texture, and the flavors are spot on. The honeycomb and strawberry have garnered a lot of praise since the restaurant opened last year— and rightly so—but Colby and pastry chef Brad Ray have also been introducing flavors like cookies-andcream and pistachio. 4653 Beverly Blvd. (323-5103093, antico-la.com, @antico__la). Pickup and delivery via Caviar. 12-8 p.m. Mon.-Sat. Wine to go.
Angelini Osteria » Italian $$$
Alta Adams WEST ADAMS » California Soul Food $$
BEVERLY GROVE
Riffing on his grandmother’s recipes, Watts native Keith Corbin slips soy and miso paste into braised oxtail, and spiced cashews into baked yams. Soul food in this city is too often associated with Styrofoam containers, yet the low-lit room here, carved out of a transformed Spanish Revival building, is a lovely place to linger, as is the lovely verdant patio. Hot sauce splashed onto skillet-fried chicken is pure pleasure, enhanced by a bourbon drink the bar tints with roasted peanuts and huckleberries. Finish the night by taking on a heroic wedge of coconut cake. 5359 W. Adams Blvd. (323-571-4999 or altaadams .com). D nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar.
Gino Angelini grew up eating his grandma’s lasagna in a town outside the Adriatic city of Rimini, and came to Los Angeles to cook with Mauro Vincenti. He’s not above finishing a crostino of lardo with truffles, but his wheelhouse is a more understated realm: soup is thick with soft potatoes, tripe is buoyed by a slow-cooked soffritto, and all the veal kidneys need is cooked-down onions and a splash of wine. 7313 Beverly Blvd. (323-297-0070 or angelinirestaurantgroup .com). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Beer and wine.
A.O.C. BEVERLY GROVE » California $$$
Unforced and driven by culinary excellence, A.O.C. is
I NSI DE R PIC KS
CITY CHEFS SHARE THE DELICIOUS DISHES THEY’RE DRAWN TO WHEN THEY GO OUT TO EAT
KRIS TOMINAGA
ANN KIRK
KEITH CORBIN
SABEL BRAGANZA
MANUELA
LITTLE DOM’S
ALTA ADAMS
E.P. & L.P.
COOL WAX BEANS HIPPO
EARL GREY TEA & BUTTERBISCUITS ICE CREAM DUNE
HIGHLY BURGER HIGHLY LIKELY
AGUACHILES LA CEVICHERIA
“It’s three of my very favorite things all in one: perfectly steeped Earl Grey tea; buttery cookies; and rich, creamy ice cream.” $5.25/scoop, multiple locations, mcconnells.com
“They do a good potato bun, and the beef is full of flavor. You can tell that it’s fresh, organic, and grass-fed. Amazing.” $9, 4310 W. Jefferson Blvd., West Adams, itshighlylikely.com
“Matt Molina nails bright, fresh, textured, and simple with this salad. It’s a banger of a dish with a lot of grace.” $10, 5916 1/2 N. Figueroa St., Highland Park, hipporestaurant.com
38 L A M AG . C O M
“I really like the sauce. It’s a bit chunkier, so all the spices and the chiles stick to the shrimp.” $15, 3809 W. Pico Blvd., Arlington Heights, 323-732-1253
K R I S TO M I N AG A : CO U RT E SY M A N U E L A ; A N N K I R K : CO U RT E SY L I T T L E D O M ’ S ; K E I T H CO R B I N : A N D R E A D ’AG AOSTO/CO U RT E SY A LTA A DA M S ; SA B E L B R AG A N Z A : JA KO B L AY M A N /CO U RT E SY E . P. & L . P.
boasts three distinct outdoor dining areas. A delicate curried carrot broth and beluga lentils transform slices of smoked tofu from wholesome to haute, while lamb belly spins on a spit in the former rectory. 114 E. 2nd St. (213-788-1191 or redbird.la). D Wed.-Sun. Full bar.
anchored by a courtyard with soft sunlight and laurel trees. Caroline Styne’s wine list doesn’t shy away from the ecology of vineyards, while Suzanne Goin’s cooking has become indispensable. Carefully constructed salads showcase vegetables at their best, and the roasted chicken with panzanella is both an homage to San Francisco’s Zuni Café and a classic in and of itself. 8700 W. 3rd St. (310-859-9859 or aocwinebar .com). D Tues. -Sun.; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar.
Connie and Ted’s » Seafood $$$
WEST HOLLYWOOD
The rustic charms of fried clam bellies and a loaded lobster roll have New England transplants (including chef-owner Michael Cimarusti) feeling homesick. At the raw bar, a tatted-up crew lops the spines off sea urchins and shucks oysters from both coasts. That’s linguiça heating up a Portuguese fish stew, and housesmoked fish salad with frisée, potato, aioli, Calabrian chili vinaigrette. But Cimarusti knows that sometimes the best way to prepare fish is to just grill it. 8171 Santa Monica Blvd. (323-848-2722 or connieandteds.com). L Wed.-Sun.; D nightly. Full bar.
E.P. + L.P. WEST HOLLYWOOD
» Pan-Asian $$$
With a killer rooftop dining area, this dual-concept restaurant and bar would probably attract scene-y crowds regardless of its menu. The Thai-Chinese-Fijian plates are playful and progressive, including fried crab curry buns and ahi tuna tartare crostini with kimchi relish. 603 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310-855-9955 or eplosangeles .com). D nightly; brunch Sun. Full bar.
Guelaguetza KOREATOWN » Mexican $-$$ An authentic Oaxacan restaurant located in a former Korean banquet has made for a happy jumble for decades. The tlayudas, giant tortillas, are irresistible when spread with aciento, a traditional condiment that could pass for whipped lardo. Thick with pounded almonds, olives, and roasted chiles, the seven different types of moles are a tapestry of interwoven elements. And now the delightfully authentic flavors can be had at home thanks to the restaurant’s takehome meal kits. 3014 W. Olympic Blvd. (213-4270608, ilove mole.com, @laguelaguetza). Takeout, curbside pickup, and delivery via Postmates, DoorDash, Caviar, and Grubhub. 11 a.m.-7 p.m. Thu.-Sun. Beer, wine, and cocktails to go.
Harold & Belle’s JEFFERSON PARK » Southern Creole $$ For Creole-style food—a mélange of French, African, and Native American flavors—Harold & Belle’s is as close to the Dirty Coast as you’ll come on the West Coast. The crawfish étouffée in spicy gravy will have you humming zydeco, while the bourbon bread pudding will leave you with a Sazerac-worthy buzz. 2920 W. Jefferson Blvd. (323-735-9023 or haroldandbelles restaurant.com). L-D daily. Full bar.
(323-334-3369 or jonandvinnys.com). B-L-D daily. Beer and wine. Also at 11938 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood (310-442-2733).
Kali LARCHMONT VILLAGE
» New American $$$
Chef Kevin Meehan never strays far from the fare that once characterized California cuisine, but the restaurant doesn’t play it safe either: witness the black cod with English peas and black lime, the black barley “risotto” with black garlic, or the sea urchin pasta with bread crumbs and ricotta whey. 5722 Melrose Ave. (323-871-4160 or kalirestaurant .com). D Thurs.-Sun. Full bar.
Lalibela FAIRFAX DISTRICT » Ethiopian $-$$
The strip of Fairfax known as Little Ethiopia has long been dominated by the same handful of restaurants. Chef-owner Tenagne Belachew worked in a few of them before opening her own sophisticated haven, which invites with the swirling aromas of berbere and burning sage. Stretchy disks of injera—the sour, teff-flour pancake that doubles as a utensil for scooping up food by hand—arrive piled with uniquely pungent delights. There are wots, or stews, made with chicken or spiced legumes or lamb sautéed in a creamy sauce. 1025 S. Fairfax Ave. (323-965-1025 or lalibelala.com). L-D daily. Beer and wine.
Luv2Eat Thai Bistro HOLLYWOOD » Thai $$ Vibrant flavors and spices abound at this strip mall favorite from two Phuket natives. The crab curry, with whole crustacean swimming in a creamy pool of deliciousness, is not to be missed (and it travels surprisingly well), but the expansive menu is full of winners from the massaman curry to the Thai fried chicken with sticky rice and sweet pepper sauce. 6660 W. Sunset Blvd. (323-498-5835, luv2eatthai.com, @luv2eat.thaibistro). Takeout and delivery via SappClub, ChowNow, or phone. 11 a.m.10 p.m. daily.
Osteria Mozza/Pizzeria Mozza » Italian $$$
HANCOCK PARK
Nancy Silverton’s osteria and pizzeria may share a street corner, but their true link is a fearless approach. The osteria aims for big-city elegance, with space in the dining room for a cheese counter, where you can order a plate of buffalo mozzarella and Sungold tomatoes. Most people opt for more: rosemary charred pork chop or grilled beef tagliata. Next door it’s about pizzas with billowing crusts and toppings like fennel sausage. A parking area has recently been transformed into “Piazza Mozza” to offer outdoor seating Osteria: 6602 Melrose Ave. (323-2970100 or osteriamozza.com). D nightly. Full bar. Pizzeria: 641 N. Highland Ave. (323-297-0101 or pizzeriamozza .com). L-D daily. Beer and wine.
JA KO B L AY M A N /CO U RT E SY P R OV I D E N C E
This breakout restaurant from two Animal alumni— chef-partner Jonathan Whitener and managing partner Lien Ta—turns heads on a K-Town corner. The cocktails are considered, as is the decor (a photo of Morrissey, a splash or two of craft-chic geometric patterns), while Whitener’s menu is freewheeling. Smoked beef tongue is served with garum mustard, cress, and horseradish; frog legs come with salsa negra, scallion, and lime. 3901 W. 6th St. (213-568-3573 or hereslookingatyoula.com). D nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar.
HANCOCK PARK » Cal-French $$$
République may be devoted to French food, but its soul is firmly rooted in Californian cuisine. Walter Manzke is as skilled at making potato and leek beignets as he is with roasted cauliflower and local dates. At breakfast, people murmur over cast-iron pots of shakshouka, and drool over the pastries while waiting to be seated. At dinner, the rib eye—served with soft marrow—can be had in two sizes. Afterward it’s time for Margarita Manzke’s orange blossom cream puff. 624 S. La Brea Ave. (310-362-6115 or republiquela .com). B-L-D daily. Full bar.
FAIRFAX DISTRICT
» Italian $$
Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s homage to the neighborhood pizza joint is an in-demand reservation because the food is so darned good, not because the two guys are stars. The Italian canon is prepared with the signature gusto of their first venture, Animal, but there’s also a more rarely seen delicateness. A chicken Parmesan with pomodoro and mozzarella pairs well with a bottle of their pinot noir. 412 N. Fairfax Ave.
HOLLYWOOD Seafood $$$$
› Donato Poto runs the two-Michelinstar dining room, while the kitchen can barely contain chef Michael Cimarusti’s passion for fish. Santa Barbara prawns grilled with rosemary represent the West Coast; New Bedford scallops chopped into a tartare and served with sea grass compete for the East. Cimarusti respects the pristine state of fish so much that any additional ingredient has to earn a place on the plate. Bar director Kim Stodel works magic with Cimarusti’s leftovers, whipping up inventive cocktails from kitchen scraps, while 23-year-old pastry chef Mac Daniel Dimla is a rising star. 5955 Melrose Ave. (323460-4170 or providencela.com). L Fri.; D nightly. Full bar.
WEST HOLLYWOOD
» Peruvian $$$
Former Mo Chica chef Ricardo Zarate brings a determined focus to an airy dining room in the former Comme Ça space. His cooking here centers on Peruvian cuisine’s core tenets. Most notable of all is fire, evidenced in flame-kissed prawns and planchaseared steaks. The bracing ceviches for which Zarate is rightly famous are in full force, too: scallop and sea urchin floating in leche de tigre with fried garlic, or delicate Ensenada sea bass in a yuzu-walnut dressing. 8479 Melrose Ave. (323-297-9500 or rosalinela.com). D nightly. Full bar.
SLAB Ronan
Jon & Vinny’s
Providence
Rosaliné République
Here’s Looking at You KOREATOWN » Fusion $$-$$$
CENTRAL
FAIRFAX DISTRICT » Cal-Italian $$$
Daniel and Caitlin Cutler may hail from traditional Italian eatery Sotto, but their chic pizzeria on Melrose is more offbeat, with tiki-ish cocktails and a brass crucifix above the wood-fired oven. Charred pies with spicy ’nduja, Gorgonzola, and celery nod to Buffalo as much as to Naples, while steak tartare is punched up with pistachios and briny olives. 7315 Melrose Ave. (323-917-5100 or ronanla.com). D Tue.-Sun. Full bar.
BEVERLY GROVE
» Barbecue $$
Hungry diners used to line up in the driveway of Burt Bakman’s home desperate for a taste of his famous smoked barbecue meats. In 2018, Bakman came up from the underground, opening a sleek storefront that’s now filling to-go orders for hearty fare, from perfectly marbled brisket to pulled-pork sandwiches and collard greens. You can even get a six-pack of Bud Light. 8136 W. 3rd. St. (310-855-7184, slabbarbecue .com, @slab). Takeout and delivery via Postmates. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. daily. Beer and wine to go.
L A M AG . C O M 39
1810
121 West Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, CA 91105 | (626) 795-5658 | 1810restaurant.com
Discover 125 restaurants in 22 historic blocks
PROMOTION
Old Pasadena dining includes a variety of experiences BONE KETTLE
67 North Raymond Avenue, Pasadena, CA 91103 | (626) 795-5702 | bonekettle.com
Fast-Casual Chef-Driven Patio Dining Top-Rated Neighborhood CafĂŠ
90 minutes FREE parking in Park & Walk Garages
oldpasadena.org/ dine
ENTRE NOUS FRENCH BISTRO
119 West Green Street, Pasadena, CA 91105 | (626) 844-4500 | entrenousfrenchbistro.com
Son of a Gun » Seafood $$
BEVERLY GROVE
Florida-raised chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo deliver a certain brand of sun-drenched seashore nostalgia. Dropping into the nautically themed dining room for chilled peel-and-eat shrimp and a Hurricane feels as effortless as dipping your toes in the sand. There are buttery lobster rolls and fried-chicken sandwiches alongside artfully plated crudos and uni-slathered burrata. Don’t miss the yellowfin tuna–wrapped avocado in leche de tigre. 8370 W. 3rd St. (323-782-9033 or sonofagunrestaurant.com). L-D daily. Full bar.
EAST
All Day Baby SILVER LAKE Eclectic $$
Tesse WEST HOLLYWOOD
» Modern European $$$
Restaurateur Bill Chait, formerly of Bestia and République, lands on the Sunset Strip. The sleek, teak-accented space leans in on butchery: housecured sausages and pâtés freckled with green peppercorns. Desserts like a strawberry cobbler or a textbook chocolate soufflé show off WP24-alum Sally Camacho Mueller’s prowess with pastry. 8500 W. Sunset Blvd., Ste. B (310-360-3866 or tesserestaurant.com). D Wed.-Sat. Brunch Sat. Full bar.
EAST All Time LOS FELIZ » California $$
› Jonathan Whitener’s highly anticipated follow-up to Here’s Looking at You brings an eclectic mix of deliciousness to a bustling Eastside corner. Biscuit sandwiches amaze, while shrimp and grits have been upgraded to grits topped with a shrimp “bolognese” and delightfully crispy leeks. The expansive menu also includes sandwiches, salads, smoked meats, traditional entrées, and an entire section devoted to dips. 3200 W. Sunset Blvd. (323-741-0082 or alldaybabyla .com). B-L daily. Full bar.
Coffee pro Tyler Wells has added dinner service to his cozy bungalow café, and the results exude neighborhood comfort. Bub and Grandma’s focaccia comes capped with burrata and blistered tomatoes; pork belly confit is served with guacamole, red cabbage, and salsa verde. The simple cooking is a fit for co-owner Ashley Ragovin’s wine list. 2040 Hillhurst Ave. (323-660-3868 or alltimelosangeles.com). B-L daily; D Thu.-Sun. Beer and wine.
with energy. The Manila native refines Pinoy classics like sizzling pork sisig and adobo fried rice without dampening the cuisine’s spirit. Crunchy cigar-length egg rolls called lumpia arrive draped with sea urchin, and there’s a pandan-leaf old-fashioned. Who could ask for more? 4330 W. Sunset Blvd. (323741-8371 or maamsirla.com). D Wed.-Mon. Full bar.
Maury’s Bagels SILVER LAKE » BAGELS $ East Coast transplant Jason Kaplan spent a decade in L.A. before deciding he had to take matters into his own hands if he wanted a great bagel in this town. He started out as a pop-up at farmers’ markets and coffee shops, but his appropriately modestly sized, delightfully chewy bagels now have a brick-and-mortar location on a quiet, charming Eastside corner next door to Psychic Wines. 2829 Bellevue Ave. (323-380-9380 or maurysbagels.com). B and L daily.
Northern Thai Food Club EAST HOLLYWOOD » Thai $ Offering specialty dishes unique to northern Thailand, this family-run favorite doesn’t skimp on flavor, spice, or authenticity. Tasty takeout meals include the khao soi gai (curry egg noodle with chicken), laab moo kua (minced pork), tam kha noon ( jackfruit salad), pla salid tod (fried gourami fish). For those unfamiliar with the region’s distinct cuisine, the illustrious sticky rice is still a staple. Need more incentive? Everything on the menu is less than $10. 5301 Sunset Blvd. (323-474-7212 or amphainorthernthaifood.com). Takeout and delivery via the restaurant’s website. 10 a.m.-9:30 p.m. daily.
Otoño HIGHLAND PARK » Spanish $$
Teresa Montaño’s narrow Spanish place thankfully avoids tapas-bar clichés. Start with golden fritters flecked with jamón, a perfect pan con tomate, and patatas bravas in the form of churros. Wash it down with vermouth, available on tap, and chilly, elaborately garnished gin tónicas served in proper goblets. Save room for Montaño’s paellas, where miso and dashi add unexpected flavor and depth. 5715 N. Figueroa St. (323-474-6624 or otonorestaurant.com). D Tue.-Sun.; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar.
Atrium LOS FELIZ » Eclectic $$
Chef-partner Hunter Pritchett (Son of a Gun) has breathed new life into the idea of a neighborhood restaurant and a stretch of Vermont Avenue not exactly known for its culinary cred. The globe-trotting menu brims with fun, intriguing options that beg for multiple visits, from beef carpaccio carne asada to grilled focaccia with kimchi butter to a show-stopping crispy whole fish with papaya salad. Accessed through a brick-walled pathway, it’s easy to miss—but definitely shouldn’t be. 1816 N. Vermont Ave. (323-607-6944 or atriumlosfeliz.com). Happy hour and D nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar.
Pine & Crane » Taiwanese $
SILVER LAKE
An alum of Chez Panisse, Vivian Ku has infused the Taiwanese counter-service venture with smart sincerity. Quick orders of pickled daikon, spicy peanut, and stewed bamboo shoots can be ordered from the deli case. Neighborhood denizens drop by for vegan pancakes or wontons stuffed with spicy shrimp. 1521 Griffith Park Blvd. (323-668-1128 or pineandcrane .com). L-D Wed.-Mon. Beer and wine.
Bar Restaurant » French $$$
SILVER LAKE
Chef Douglas Rankin, who worked under Ludo Lefebvre for years, strikes out on his own with this charming, pale-pink “neo-bistro” in the old Malo space in Sunset Junction. The menu features playful Gallic-ish fare, like curly fries and plump mussels Dijon atop milk toast; classic cocktails; and plenty of funky wines available by the glass. The restaurant recently expanded its already large outdoor space into the parking lot to create a festive open-air area with plants and lights. 4326 W. Sunset Blvd. (barrestaurant.la or 323-3475557). D Tue.-Sat. Full bar.
Triple Beam Pizza, this Cal-Ital restaurant from Mozza vet Matt Molina balances casual and refined. Snappy wax beans are sluiced with vinaigrette for a picnic-worthy salad; sweet corn cappellacci are lush pasta pillows. Grilled chicken thighs and a glass of Vermentino deliver the unfussy pleasure found at the best neighborhood spots. 5916 ½ N. Figueroa St. (323-545-3536 or hipporestaurant.com). D Mon.-Sun.; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar.
Kismet LOS FELIZ
Eszett
CO U RT E SY A L L DAY B A BY
SILVER LAKE » Eclectic $$
This stylish, cozy wine bar brings warm hospitality and tasty plates large and small to the strip-mall space formerly occupied by Trois Familia. Chef Spencer Bezaire’s menu showcases Japanese, French, and German influences, with dishes like fries with nori mayo, escargot with chive rolls, and a bean and green salad with Alpine cheese. For those not looking to eat in, there are amply takeout options. 3510 W. Sunset Blvd. (323-522-6323 or eszettla.com). D Wed.-Mon. Full bar.
Hippo HIGHLAND PARK
» Cal-Italian $$
Hidden in a wood-trussed dining room behind
» Middle Eastern $$
Sarah Kramer and Sarah Hymanson of Madcapra have expanded beyond falafel with this all-day restaurant specializing in California-fied versions of Middle Eastern classics. The “Turkish-ish Breakfast” is an enormous spread of dips with a sesame-sprinkled hunk of Bub & Grandma’s bread. At dinner a platter of rabbit feeds two and comes with triangles of “flaky bread” for swiping up a rich stew of curried chickpeas. 4648 Hollywood Blvd. (323-409-0404 or kismetlosangeles.com). B-L-D daily. Beer and wine.
Ma’am Sir » Filipino $$
SILVER LAKE
Charles Olalia has transformed the erstwhile Bar Angeles space into a lush tropical hangout bristling
Porridge + Puffs HISTORIC FILIPINOTOWN
» Pan-Asian $
Minh Phan’s beloved restaurant is still cooking up porridge and puffs, along with bahn mi and a set meal named in honor of the late Jonathan Gold. Proceeds from the latter go toward providing free meals to those on the front lines of the COVID-19 battle. Various provisions—from miso caramel to apricot habanero—are on sale to help jazz up your home cooking. 2801 Beverly Blvd. (213-908-5313, porridgeandpuffs.com, @porridgeandpuffs). Takeout via Square Up. 12-6 p.m. Thu.-Sat.
Salazar FROGTOWN » Mexican $$ This auto-mechanic shop turned taqueria remains a popular spot for grilled meats and fish and spiked agua frescas. Dirt floors, cacti, and pastel school chairs set the scene, and children and dogs are welcome. The tacos, served on housemade flour tortillas, don’t disappoint, especially the carne asada, but other dishes are worth considering. The grilled jumbo shrimp, with an especially tangy cocktail sauce, are perfectly juicy, while a trout dish inspired by Mexico City’s beloved seafood joint Contramar is a satisfying lighter option. 2490 Fletcher Dr. (salazarla .com). All day Tue.-Sun. Full bar.
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THE VALLEY
Sea Harbour Seafood Restaurant ROSEMEAD » Chinese $-$$
Tsubaki
Located in an anonymous stucco building near an on-ramp to the 10 freeway, the L.A. branch of this Hong Kong-style chain has a corporate veneer you have to get past (the laminated menu could have come from IHOP). But you forget about all that when the waiters march out with your dim sum order. In the evenings there’s as much Bordeaux as tea on the tables, a declaration of ambition and a nod to the formal manner with which this type of restaurant flirts. 3939 Rosemead Blvd. (626-2883939). B-L-D daily. Beer and wine.
The popular izakaya has modified its menu to include to-go-friendly options like bento boxes with charcoal-grilled ocean trout and Jidori chicken accompanied by miso soup, daikon pickles, greenbean goma-ae, and root vegetable kinpira. There are also fried pork dumplings and a fried chicken sandwich—perfect home-drinking food. The restaurant is also offering a virtual sake school, highlighting a particular sake with tasting notes and videos via Instagram Stories. 1356 Allison Ave. (213-900-4900, tsubakila.com, @tsubakila). 12-8 p.m. daily. Takeout and delivery via Caviar and Postmates. Sake to go.
Sqirl EAST HOLLYWOOD
ECHO PARK
» California $
Union PASADENA
What would open-faced brioche avocado toast be without hot pickled carrots, garlic crème fraîche, and house za’atar? Originally conceived as another outlet for Jessica Koslow’s splendid jams, Sqirl grew into the neighborhood commissary known for elaborate toast, crispy rice bowls, and longstewed legumes garnished with herbs. Bacon-serving but vegan friendly, attuned to the rhythms of a day in L.A., Sqirl is of-the-moment yet anchored by something deeper. 720 N. Virgil Ave., Ste. 4 (323284-8147 or sqirlla.com). B-L daily. No alcohol.
» Japanese $$
Most nights it seems as if half the Valley is here, huddled at the bar. Top Chef graduate Antonia Lofaso’s Italian chops are visible in the buxom ricotta gnudi with brown butter and pistachios. The deep-fried fluffernutter sandwich is a reminder that food, like life, should not be taken too seriously. 11915 Ventura Blvd. (818-446-2533 or blackmarketliquorbar.com). D nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar.
The Brothers Sushi WOODLAND HILLS » Sushi $$$
» Italian $$$
The food shines at this cozy trattoria just off Pasadena’s main drag. Chef Chris Keyser, an acolyte of Philadelphia pasta maestro Marc Vetri, joined in 2019, keeping classics, like a great cacio e pepe, on the menu while adding his own dishes such as a thrilling crispy octopus appetizer. The pastas all impress, but don’t miss the wild mushrooms and polenta with a sublimely delicious sherry vinegar and truffle butter sauce. 37 E. Union St. (626-795-5841 or unionpasadena.com). D nightly. Beer and wine.
Spoon & Pork » Filipino $$
Black Market Liquor Bar STUDIO CITY » New American $$
At least there’s still sushi, and at this hidden gem, which was reinvigorated when chef Mark Okuda took the helm in 2018, the fare is really great. Keep spirits up with the Hand-Roll Party home kits (there’s even one for kids), or splurge on an omakase to go. You can also order à la carte or get non-sushi items like soy-glazed grilled chicken. 21418 Ventura Blvd. (818-456-4509, thebrotherssushi .com, @thebrotherssushila). Curbside pickup and delivery by calling the restaurant. 12-2 p.m. Tue.-Fri., 5:30-8 p.m. Tue.-Sun. Beer, wine, and sake to go.
SILVER LAKE
Yang’s Kitchen ALHAMBRA » Asian $
Gino’s East
The go-to for Filipino comfort food offers a variety of dishes, all featuring one shared ingredient: deliciousness. Spoon & Pork puts an innovative spin on some Filipino favorites—just try its adobo pork belly, pork belly banh mi, or lechon kawali. The dishes elegantly mix decadence with some authentic soul. 3131 W. Sunset Blvd. (323-922-6061, spoonandpork.com, @spoonandporkla). Takeout and delivery via the restaurant’s website. 12-3 p.m. Wed.-Sun.
Two Cassia alums are behind this bright, beautifully conceived noodle joint. The concise menu features impeccably sourced takes on Chinese and Taiwanese standards—beef noodle soup, cold sesame noodles— and unexpected twists. A beef scallion pancake wrap gets refreshing vibrancy from ponzu pico de gallo; the same braised pork that’s served in a rice dish also pops up in a pasta with Parmesan cheese. 112 W. Main St. (626-281-1035 or yangskitchenla.com). L-D Wed.-Sun. No alcohol.
Carbs don’t get any more comforting and indulgent than deep-dish pizza—at least if you have ties to Chicago. This new location had fans waiting hours for a table in pre-pandemic times; now you can order spinach-artichoke dip and a deep-dish Meaty Legend to enjoy at home. 12924 Riverside Dr. (818788-5050, ginoseast.com/los-angeles, @ginoseastla). Takeout and delivery via ChowNow. 12-9 p.m. daily. Beer and wine to go.
SHERMAN OAKS
» Pizza $$$
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Ye Olde King’s Head British Pub, Restaurant, Gift Shoppe & Bakery Est. 1974
116 Santa Monica Boulevard Santa Monica, CA 90401
For Pub and Restaurant, call 310.451.1402 For Gift Shoppe and Bakery, call 310.394.8765 Open Daily for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner – Patio Dining also available.
yeoldekingshead.com
Hank’s BURBANK
» Bagels $
The L.A. bagel revolution continues at this stylish new spot in the Valley that serves up carefully constructed sandwiches. Tomato, aioli, and maple-glazed bacon elevate a simple bacon, egg, and cheese, while a classic salmon-and-lox construction has thoughtful touches like salted cucumbers and pickled onions. Sammies shine with plain cream cheese, but it’s worth grabbing a tub of Hank’s “angry” spread—a spicy, slightly sweet concoction—to have in your fridge. And no cream cheese is needed for Hank’s everything jalapeno-cheddar bagel, a stunning gut bomb. 4315 Riverside Dr. (hanksbagels.com, @hanksbagels). Takeout and delivery via Toast. 8 a.m.-1:30 p.m. daily.
SOUTH » Steak House $$$
David LeFevre’s take on the American steak house is so mid-century plush, it’s an excuse to splurge. Whether that means ordering top-grade Wagyu at $23.75 an ounce or the reasonable petit New York steak for $45, wet-aged and darkened on the grill, is up to you. For those opposed to large primal cuts of cow, consider the wild Alaskan halibut with summer squash, tomato confit, and roasted garlic. Dessert is a luxe hot fudge sundae that pulls out all the stops. 903 Manhattan Ave. (310-878-9620 or thearthurj.com). D nightly. Full bar.
Fishing With Dynamite MANHATTAN BEACH » Seafood $$$ A premium raw bar near the beach shouldn’t be unusual, but it is. The same goes for velvety clam
ENTERPRISE FISH CO.
pork belly inside a bánh xèo crepe feels like a delicious treasure hunt. 1131 Manhattan Ave. (310-5452096 or littlesistermb.com). L , D daily. Beer, wine, and sake. Also at 523 W. 7th St., downtown (213628-3146 or littlesisterla.com).
Love & Salt MANHATTAN BEACH » Italian $$-$$$
Gabi James With Mozza alum Chris Feldmeier in the kitchen, South Bay standby Zazou has been revamped as a traditional tapas spot with beachy charm. Soft Indio dates are sautéed in olive oil and tossed with chunks of Manchego, while pan-crisped strands of fideo pasta are cooked down with cider and fistfuls of garlic before being set off with aioli. 1810 S. Catalina Ave. (310-540-4884 or gabijamesla.com). D Tues.Sun.; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar.
Serving pasta-centric coastal cuisine, this venture is formal enough that a waiter serves creste di gallo, and lighthearted enough that Larder Bakery rye toast with Cara Cara marmalade and house-cultured butter aren’t out of place. Come with a crew and try one of the family-style dishes, including a gorgeous whole roasted branzino with Umbrian lentils. Don’t miss comforting desserts like Italian doughnuts with Nutella. 317 Manhattan Ave. (310545-5252 or loveandsaltla.com). D nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar.
Hotville
M.B. Post
REDONDO BEACH
» Spanish $$$
BALDWIN HILLS CRENSHAW
The Arthur J MANHATTAN BEACH
chowder. Here, it achieves smoky richness—you can thank the Nueske’s bacon for that—without any of the floury glop. On the raw bar menu you’ll find several kinds of oysters from across the country, Peruvian scallops, and Alaskan king crab legs. 1148 Manhattan Ave. (310-893-6299 or eatfwd.com). L-D daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar.
» Fried chicken $
After three years of running a pop-up, Kim Prince has opened a brick-and-mortar that does her family’s legacy justice—she is the niece of André Prince Jeffries, owner of Nashville legend Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack, where hot fried chicken is said to have originated. Prince adds spice at every step in the cooking process to produce a complex, layered flavor. The sides ($5 and up), like spicy mac and cheese and kale coleslaw, are also winners. 4070 Marlton Ave. (323-792-4835 or hotvillechicken.com). L-D Tue.-Sun. No alcohol.
MANHATTAN BEACH » New American $$
David LeFevre (the Arthur J, Fishing With Dynamite) cuts a swath through genres and latitudes with the gusto of someone who’s clearly pleased to be at the stove. He sears Scottish salmon with roasted garlic puree, sugar snap peas, truffle vinaigrette, and charred scallions. There’s plenty of wordplay on the menu (“Meat Me Later”), but no pun can do justice to his bacon-cheddar biscuits with maple butter. 1142 Manhattan Ave. (310-545-5405 or eatmbpost .com). D nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun. Full bar.
Little Sister
MANHATTAN BEACH » Asian Fusion $$
Chef and co-owner Tin Vuong deftly translates the flavors of Vietnam for a casual drinking scene. Grilled lemongrass pork works beautifully in the nem lui dish with beef skewers, greens, and house dressing. With a craft beer in hand, digging for
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Serving the Freshest Seafood in Santa Monica
174 Kinney Street
Award-Winning Happy Hour 2lb. Lobster Special | $1 Oyster Special
310-392-8366 enterprisefishco.com
L A M AG . C O M 43
THE CITY THROUGH INSTAGRAM | #LAMAGVIEWS
HIRE CALLING
> Chef/restaurateur Keith Corbin (@chefkeithcorbin, far left) and staffers pose in front of Alta Adams eatery, as Black Lives Matter protests grip the city. “Our restaurant represents what we’re fighting for in America right now,” says Corbin. Once incarcerated himself, Corbin prioritizes inclusive hiring. “If you provide opportunity to people, then they’ll have a chance. The first thing you have to do is just give opportunity.” — SCHUYLER MITCHELL 4 4 L A M AG . C O M
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