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W E S T F I E L D.C O M
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S P E N D Y O U R D AY W I T H U S A M C T H E AT R E S • A R I T Z I A • C A F E L A N D W E R C A M P • E ATA LY • E Q U I N OX • J AV I E R ’S L E V I’S • S E P H O R A • Z A R A
6/23/22 5:22 PM
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W E ’ L L A LWAY S H AV E PA R I S
Caroline D’Amore (left) and the “It” girl of the aughts captured by the Cobrasnake.
Features
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West Hollywood is famous for being the world’s gayest city. But as WeHo becomes younger, straighter, and woker, its gay founding fathers are starting to feel left out.
L.A.’s billboards aren’t getting any smaller—they just seem that way. Revisiting the golden age of in your face.
The prodigy comic of the ‘70s controls a media empire that owns the Weather Channel and is worth billions. Now Allen is working overtime to make Black ownership a norm.
A photo retrospective by the founder of the Cobrasnake website conjures the pre-Insta L.A. nightlife that hatched the first social-media stars.
BY ST E V E A P P L E F O R D
MARK “THE COBRASNAKE” HUNTER
There Goes the Gayborhood!
BY JA K E F L A N AG I N 10 L A M A G . C O M
A View from the Top
BY ST E V E G A R B A R I N O
Byron Allen’s Last Laugh
L.A. Club Life in the Aughts
P H OTO G R A P H S BY
PHO T O GR A PH BY T H E C OBR A S NA K E
5,500 MILES On 5th October 1931 Clyde Pangborn and Hugh Herndon, Jr., two daring American aviators, completed the world’s first nonstop, transpacific flight from Japan to the United States. They took off and landed 41 hours later in Wenatchee, Washington, having covered a distance of 5,500 miles. At the time, it was the longest flight ever made over water.
LONGINES SPIRIT ZULU TIME
Longines_HQ • Visual: CP1_SP17 • Annonce: 31638 01Jul22 CP1_SP17 (US) • Issue: 01/07/2022
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Buzz Making Waves
›
Nathan Fluellen wants you
to know that surfing is not reserved for chiseled blond bros. So last month he hosted the largest gathering of Black surfers in history—in ruby red Huntington Beach. BY PETER KIEFER PAGE 21
The Brief
› At long last, L.A. Times
editor Kevin Merida's new address has been uncovered!; Rick Caruso or Karen Bass: why not choose L.A.'s next mayor by their celebrity endorsements?; You, too, can eavesdrop on two of Donald Trump's biggest enablers. PAGE 26
›
Wag the Dog
Tail o' the Pup used to be
L.A.’s most beloved (and eccentric) hot dog joint. Now, after years in deep storage, the Pup’s famous 17-foot wiener is taking WeHo by storm.
Last Look › A celebration of our
beloved Hollywood Bowl, where captivated audiences applauded in the rain for Judy Garland and screamed for the Beatles.
LITTLE GEM
Find the best of everything fresh at Cookbook in Echo Park.
PAGE 112
PAG E 3 5 P HO T O G R A P H E D B Y S TA R F OR E M A N
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FOOD SHOPPING E N T E R TA I N M E N T R E PA I R S H E A LT H & B E AU T Y KIDS PETS
AUGUST 2022
› We’re back with our annual, unbiased guide to the city’s finest fare. From cafés to comic-book stores, queer dispensaries to quinceañera gowns, our intrepid team of reporters tore up the town to find the best places to eat, play, and shop right now.
BEST OF L.A.
Best of L.A.
BEST OF L.A.
ON THE COVER Photographed by Corina Marie at Tail o' the Pup, June 2022.
M O D E L S : D E N N I S D E P E W, R O R Y M A N N S , B R O O K LY N B E N S O N , B E E P B O O P S , C H R I S N I C H O L S , L I A M R O S H A N , G O D O Y, C A LV I N D I L I B E R O , M I S S K A R I S S A B . “ B A B Y W E S T C O A S T ” ; G R O O M I N G : L A U R A Y O U N G ; C R E W : A M A N D A YA N E Z , S A N DY R I V E R A , D O M I N I Q U E C O X
BY ALISON MARTINO PAGE 28
Maer Roshan
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF EXECUTIVE EDITOR EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
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Editor’s Note
BY MAER ROSHAN
S N A P, C R A C K L E , P U P !
Killing time at L.A.’s most fabulous hot dog joint.
I N O T H E R PA R T S of the country, a lot of people think of Los Angeles as Crazy Town. They imagine that we’re a city full of kooks and flakes and phonies. As if someone grabbed America by the East Coast, gave it a good shake, and all the weird bits that weren’t bolted down slid across the Great Plains, bounced over the Rockies, and landed here, in our palm tree–lined, sundappled, movie star–infested asylum of a burg. On Fox News, California is a punchline— La La Land, as Tucker Carlson calls it. And, OK, while some of that might be sort of true, I can’t help but wonder if perhaps they’ve got it backwards. As I’ve watched events unfold in recent months— women’s reproductive rights being stripped away by right-wing state legislatures, 18 L A M A G . C O M
“Maybe we’re the sane ones. It’s everyone else in America who seems kind of crazy right now.”
common-sense gun laws being struck down even as third-graders are shot dead; the revelation that a president of the United States tried to carjack his own SUV and drive it to an armed insurrection at the Capitol—I’ve started to think that maybe we’re the sane ones. It’s everyone else in America who seems kind of crazy right now. As we’ve been putting together this year’s Best of L.A. issue, I’ve thought a lot about what I love most about this city. And I’ve come to realize one of the very best things about Los Angeles is its exuberant embrace of difference. Sure, we have our internal squabbles—just ask Karen Bass and Rick Caruso. But for the most part, there’s an atmosphere of tolerance and acceptance here that continues to flourish even as it’s disappearing everywhere else in America. While the rest of the nation is squaring off into increasingly insular and hostile political and cultural tribes, we in L.A. are blowing air-kisses at anyone and everyone, like a big, dippy, dysfunctional family. That was the idea behind this month’s cover shoot, which we shot in late June at Tail o’ the Pup, a newly reopened West Hollywood landmark. Where else but L.A. could you find a surfer, a drag queen, an heiress, a Hasid, two goths, and Tom Cruise spending an afternoon together? Yes, we took a few liberties. Our Hasid was a character actor who shed his black duds as soon as the shoot was over and hightailed it over to Shake Shack. Cruise was played by Miles Fisher, an entrepreneur and social-media sensation who attracted millions of followers for his uncannily Tom-like deepfake videos on TikTok. (But the drag queen and the heiress and the surfer are 100 percent authentic. And the cute kid in the straw hat is really my eight-year-old nephew, Liam.) Ultimately, the collegial blend of fact and fantasy seemed very on point. After all, what could be more L.A. than deep-faking it until you make it?
Maer Roshan, Editor-in-Chief PHO T O GR A PH E D BY C OR I NA M A R I E
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Making Waves NATHAN FLUELLEN WANTS YOU TO KNOW THAT SURFING IS NOT RESERVED FOR CHISELED BLOND BROS. SO LAST MONTH HE HOSTED THE LARGEST GATHERING OF BLACK SURFERS IN HISTORY—IN RUBY RED HUNTINGTON BEACH BY PETER KIEFER PHOTOGRAPHED BY ALEXIS HUNLEY
CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD
Fluellen, cofounder of A Great Day in the Stoke.
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rewriting the narrative about what surfers are supposed to AC K W H E N S H E lived in the San Fernando look like as well as challenging the rules over who gets access Valley, Lizelle Jackson would load up her to one of California’s greatest resources—its beaches. Subaru and drive over the hill to surf at a legIn early June, hundreds of Black surfers flooded the sands endary break on Malibu’s southernmost border. of Huntington Beach to participate in the inaugural A Great A former pro volleyball player and extreme Day in the Stoke, the largest gathering of Black surfers in hisathlete, Jackson, 37, is no delicate flower. But as a gay Black tory. It was a family-friendly event, with ten-year-olds surfing woman, she didn’t quite match the profile of a typical local. alongside sixtysomethings. People flew in from Florida, “I was shocked at how aggressive it was,” she recalls of the Hawaii, Senegal, and South Africa, with attendance growing chilly reception she received in Malibu. Older, white surfers so large that the number of competitive categories had to be berated her regularly and, in some instances, demanded that expanded from three to five. she leave the water. And there were smaller, “The youths getting to see the older surfmore backhanded comments that cut just as ers really is the point,” says Nathan Fluellen, deep. “People would say, ‘It’s so good to see “White 41, one of the event’s organizers. “It’s impora Black person surfing here; I haven’t seen tant for the kids to see the older surfers so any in so long,’ ” Jackson says. “That just reinpeople didn’t they understand that they can grow into that. forced the stereotype that we don’t belong.” create surfing. They also had the opportunity to meet at the Surfing has always been an insular sport, It wasn’t event, which is important because surfing is with its own clothing style, vernacular, and such an individualistic sport.” cadences. There are, after all, only a finite a Caucasian Fluellen, who learned to surf a decade ago, number of waves and way too many people thing.” says he chose Huntington Beach for the Great trying to catch them. And these days, thanks Day in the Stoke event because the town is to the pandemic pushing scores of cooped-up synonymous with surfing—Huntington Angelenos outside and into the water, there’s Beach is known as Surf City and hosts the U.S. Open of been a spike in “localism”—when a group of surfers band Surfing. But there’s also symbolism in the setting: Huntington together to protect their access to a beach’s best waves. In L.A. Beach is among the most conservative towns in historically and Orange counties, most of these locals are white men. red Orange County. Last year, a white supremacist group orgaBut Jackson and a few other like-minded activists are nized a White Lives Matter rally near the Huntington Beach doing some banding together of their own, forming their Pier, not far from where the Great Day event took place. own community of Black surfers. And in doing so, they’re
WA T E R & P O W E R
C R E D I TS T K H E R E A N D H E R E
In June, the largest gathering of Black surfers in the country met in Huntington Beach for the inaugural A Great Day in the Stoke.
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Left: Surfer Sierra Brown in Huntington Beach, which has one of the most sought-after surf breaks in California. Below: Cherif Fall (left), a pro surfer from Senegal, and Kayiita Johnson, who runs the Black Surfers page on Instagram.
To be sure, Black surfers aren’t new. The founding of the Black Surfing Association dates back to 1975, and Black surfers, like Venice Beach native Solo Scott, have been winning competitions since the 1980s. “White people didn’t create surfing,” notes Kayiita Johnson, 33, a Minnesota-born surfer who created the Instagram page Black Surfers. “It wasn’t originally a Caucasian thing.” In fact, the first surfers in the U.S. were a trio of Hawaiian princes who, in 1885, while on break from studying at the military academy in San Mateo, carved boards out of redwoods and wowed the locals with their ability to float on the waves. More than 100 years later, though, descendants of those locals are now hoarding the surf. Indeed, across the country, there’s been a long history of denying Black children and families access to public pools and beaches, limiting their opportunities to learn to swim and, ultimately, surf. Fluellen, who grew up in Chicago, was lucky enough to live near a public pool where he and his pals
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learned to swim. It wasn’t until he was in college that he realized that his comfort in the water made him an anomaly among his peers. In some cases, that history of keeping Black people off the shoreline has been particularly ugly: a century ago, a patch of sand in Manhattan Beach called Bruce’s Beach was a resort for Black beachgoers until the land was seized and the Black couple who owned it run out of town. Last year, Governor Newsom returned the property to the couple’s descendants. After the murder of George Floyd and the subsequent protests, Fluellen and Jackson both began looking for ways to blend their love of surfing with their impulse toward activism. They both decided to attend a Black Lives Matter paddle out, only to be struck by how few African Americans were there. “And the majority of Black people who were there,” Jackson says, “couldn’t get out past the break.” So Jackson (who cofounded Color the Water, a nonprofit that offers free surf lessons to BIPOC in L.A.), Fluellen, and Johnson all began researching Black surfing groups online, collecting a constellation of nonprofits—Textured Waves, Black Surfers Collective, SoFly Surf School, and Ebony Beach Club—aligned in their vision of creating a more inclusive coastal experience. Which is how A Great Day in the Stoke came about. Of course, there are still plenty of obstacles keeping Black surfers out of the water, including the lack of affordable housing near the coast. But short of creating more affordable homes, there are some smaller policy shifts that could make a difference. Johnson notes that something as simple as adding more parking along beaches could help. “We need allies,” he says pointedly, “and I don’t mean people just reposting. You need to support and stand up for these things.”
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The Brief N E W S & N O T E S F R O M A L L OV E R
TOO CLOSE FOR COMFORT AT THE L.A. TIMES? EVER SINCE KEVIN MERIDA TOOK THE REINS AT L.A.’S HOMETOWN PAPER, STAFFERS HAVE WONDERED WHERE HE’S BEEN LIVING. TURNS OUT HE’S JUST ACROSS THE STREET FROM THE BOSS BY ALLEN SALKIN
NOT EVEN
the crackerjack reporters at the Los Angeles Times had been able to solve the mystery of where exactly in the city their new editor, Kevin Merida, has been living since owner Patrick Soon-Shiong hired him away from ESPN last year. Zoom calls with the boss from his new secret home had yielded a few clues for the staff to pick over—“He’s always surrounded by a nice stand of bamboo or a fancy garden or something, so I figured he’s living on 2 6 L A M AG . C O M
some estate,” one Times editor says. But the answer had remained maddeningly elusive. Well, it turns out Merida, 65, has been living in half of SoonShiong’s guesthouse, right across the street from the publisher’s massive compound in Brentwood. Sources say the building, a renovated midcentury modern classic that SoonShiong purchased in 2013, has been split in two, with estate staff living in one part and Merida and his wife occupying the two-bedroom, two-bath
home in the other. One real estate agent familiar with the neighborhood estimates the guesthouse’s value at $6 million. It’s unknown if Merida is paying rent. “The number of people who know about this arrangement is very few,” says a source with direct knowledge of Merida’s living situation, who finds the arrangement more than a little awkward. “I’m stunned Kevin is still there. If he really cares about L.A., why hasn’t he bought or rented a home?” Merida declined to comment on his living situation, but, in a message delivered via a Times spokesperson, defended his commitment to the city in which he now runs the largest news organization. “I am thrilled to be living in Los Angeles,” his statement reads. “The work that we do, the people I get to work with, and the community we
belong to give me a sense of pride and possibility every day.”
THE MAYORAL RACE: PALTROW VS. GRANDE S U R E Y O U can decide
whom to vote for in the upcoming mayoral race the old-fashioned way— weighing the candidates’ positions on issues like crime and homelessness, comparing their relative experiences in public office or in the private sector, looking at the content of their characters. But this is L.A., so why not decide based on which candidates are getting the cooler celebrity endorsements? Currently, Rick Caruso’s A-list supporters include Katy Perry, Snoop Dogg, Wolfgang Puck, Elon Musk, Gwyneth Paltrow, Kim Kardashian, Kris Jenner, Ted Sarandos, Bryan Lourd, Scooter Braun, Evan Spiegel, Dana Walden, Clarence Avant, Maria Shriver, and George Lopez. Karen Bass, on the other hand, has endorsements from Samuel L. Jackson,
H E L L H AT H N O F U RY
Trump lawyer Sidney Powell with Rudy Giuliani at a rally in 2022. I L LU S T R AT E D BY B R I A N TAY L O R
P OW E L L : TO M W I L L I A M S /CQ R O L L C A L L V I A A P I M AG E S
S L U M B E R PA RT Y !
Soon-Shiong and Merida aren’t just publisher and editor—they’re roomies.
DESPITE RECENT RUNAWAY INFLATION, THE COST OF A HOT DOG AT COSTCO HAS REMAINED UNCHANGED SINCE 1985. “WE HAVE NO PLANS TO TAKE THAT HOT DOG ABOVE A BUCK FIFTY,” CEO CRAIG JELINEK PROMISED SHAREHOLDERS A FEW YEARS BACK. “END OF STORY.”
Jeffrey Katzenberg, John Legend, Ken Jeong, Ariana Grande, Jackson Browne, Ari Emanuel, Amber Tamblyn, Piper Perabo, Annette O’Toole, J. J. Abrams, Donald Glover, Paula Poundstone,
and other battleground states? Then today is your lucky day. A 58-minute phone call between Wood and Byrne, in which they accuse Flynn of being a phony and a nut
T E A M C A RU S O A N D T E A M B A S S
Rick Caruso has the support of Snoop Dogg, Katy Perry, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Kim Kardashian. Karen Bass is backed by Samuel L. Jackson, Ariana Grande, Steven Spielberg, and Jeffrey Katzenberg.
Meredith Salenger, Magic Johnson, Steven Spielberg, Jennifer Garner, Norman Lear, Michael Eisner, Shonda Rhimes, Patricia Arquette, Valerie Bertinelli, Kathy Griffin, and Tiffany Haddish.
There, that should make your choice a snap. —CHRIS NICHOLS
EAVESDROPPING ON TRUMP WORLD
M AYO R A L R AC E : G E T T Y I M AG E S ( 1 0 ) ; L I M E : CO U R T E SY L I M E
E V E R W O N D E R what
it’d be like to listen in on a phone call between two of Donald Trump’s most powerful enablers? Like, say, Lin Wood, the attorney involved in those bogus Stop the Steal lawsuits last year, and multimillionaire Patrick Byrne, the former Overstock CEO who bankrolled the private plane that Michael Flynn and others in Trump’s inner circle used to fly around on while hunting for nonexistent fraud in Michigan
job who thinks QAnon is a CIA plant and describe conspiracy-spreading lawyer Sidney Powell as a drunken, sex-crazed harlot who may have embezzled tens of millions of dollars, has been sitting on the internet for anyone to listen to for months, ever since Wood uploaded it on Telegram last Thanksgiving. Given how incendiary some of the dish in this convo gets— between dog barks and coughing fits in the background—it’s more than a little surprising that the recording has gone largely NOT A L E MON
Lime’s new Citra shared bike.
unnoticed by the media. But it’s out there. “If you’ve ever seen the movie The Devil Wears Prada, working with her was that movie squared,” Byrne complains about Powell at one point in the talk, also claiming that “Sidney was trying to bed me, and I said no. And she became a woman scorned.” “There’s one thing I do know about,” Wood replies, “and that’s a woman scorned. I’ve had four divorces—it’s not good.” Byrne goes on to suggest that Powell was dipping into donations Trump supporters had sent to her defendingtherepublicpac .com election fraud fund. “I’ve heard numbers as high as $70 million,” he says. “Everybody’s owed the truth as to where all this money is going to and where it’s being spent,” Wood agrees. The two also spend time roasting Flynn, with Byrne complaining about how the disgraced general badmouthed him back when the lawyer was representing Wisconsin shooter Kyle Rittenhouse. The talk isn’t all friendly, though. Occasionally, they go after each other. “I think you’re a little kooky,” Byrne
$1.50 tells Wood, a note of playfulness in his voice. “Hold on a second, Patrick,” Wood angrily responds. “ ‘Kooky’ is a word that would fit you. Don’t insult me. It doesn’t fit me. Did you call to talk to me or did you call to insult me?” Either way, it makes for delicious listening. —JA S O N M CG A H A N
LIME’S LATEST WAY TO BLOCK DRIVEWAYS J U S T W H E N you thought it was safe to cross the street again, Lime is adding a whole new type of menace to its bikesand-scooters fleet. These wheels, introduced in June in Long Beach as part of a pilot program, are motorized gizmos Lime calls Citras—basically, electric bicycles, sans pedals, that “combine the seated comfort of a bike with the effortlessness of an e-scooter.” Or at least this is what Lime president Joe Kraus promises in a press release. Unlike a lot of shared bikes, the Citra comes with all sorts of bells and whistles, like thicker tires, a phone mount, a louder horn, and a compartment in the back for groceries. “Citra is the perfect way to save money on gas, avoid time wasted in traffic, and alleviate the headaches of hunting for parking this summer,” says Kraus. In other words, just leave them blocking driveways, like all other shared bikes. —C. N. L A M AG . C O M 2 7
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Sigourney Weaver at Tail o’ the Pup in 1979.
bowls and tamales, not to mention the famous Brown Derby). Frank Veloz and Yolanda Casazza’s eldest son, Nick Veloz, ran the eatery until the 1970s, then sold it to restaurateur Eddie Blake, who, along with his son, Dennis, kept the dogs grilling until 2005, when the Blakes lost their lease and put the structure into storage at that warehouse in Torrance. When Blake’s grandson, Jay Miller, inherited the big wiener, he made a few attempts to revive it—ill-fated partnerships with Killer Shrimp and, later, with the Caruso Group—that never went anywhere. Ultimately, Miller donated it to the Valley Relics Museum, which never did much with it either and, in 2018, turned it over to the 1933 Group, which now owns both TAIL O’ THE PUP USED TO BE L.A.’S MOST BELOVED (AND ECCENTRIC) the structure and the brand. HOT DOG JOINT. NOW, AFTER YEARS IN DEEP STORAGE, THE PUP’S FAMOUS Along with meticulously renovating 17-FOOT WIENER IS TAKING WEHO BY STORM B Y A L I S O N M A R T I N O the original structure, the 1933 Group has given it some updates, including a counter for indoor dining (the origicafe in West Hollywood, “and when I V E N I N A city filled to nal was for takeout only) and some got back to Oklahoma, there were only the brim with fast-food new artwork on the walls (photos of three things I remembered about the history—from Pink’s to Sigourney Weaver and other celebritrip: the palm trees, the Hollywood Carney’s to the world’s oldties chowing down on the Pup’s dogs). sign, and Tail o’ the Pup.” He adds, est McDonald’s—Tail o’ the Pup stands The menu has been carefully restored “It’s just one of those things that you out. Before it was shuttered in 2005, and includes favorsee in the drive-scape the frankfurter-shaped sausage stand ites from the 1946 of Los Angeles that is had been an iconic, if eccentric, L.A. kitchen, such as the so iconic—even more landmark, appearing in scores of TV A fast-food foot-long Baseball so than the Chinese shows and films. Once it even went Pup. Among the new Theatre or the Capitol airborne, dangling from a helicopter, legend founded additions are a chilRecords Building. It’s La Dolce Vita-style, in Steve Martin’s in 1946 is back dren’s menu, “Bowser so in your face and L.A. Story. with modern Beer” for dogs (with over the top and adorAnd now—hot dog!—the Pup leash hooks nearby), able. So when I had is making a Hollywood comeback, twists—vegan and, for the first time the chance to bring it thanks to the 1933 Group, a local hoshot dogs and ever, alcohol. back, I jumped at it.” pitality company that’s been busily lots of alcohol. “I describe my style The restaurant’s resuscitating a bunch of disappeared as sympathetic resvery first location, L.A. landmarks. After spending nearly toration,” says Green. when it opened to fantwo decades in a deep storage facility in “I don’t erase the character flaws that fare on June 27, 1946, was a few blocks Torrance, the 17-foot-long wiener has have been added over the years; I keep away, at 311 N. La Cienega Boulevard, been given a stem to stern makeover them intact. The dents, bruises, and although at one point, in the 1980s, it and reopened in July at Santa Monica layers of underpaint remain to tell their moved to a parking lot at Cedars-Sinai. Boulevard and La Cienega in West own story.” Its original owners were Veloz and Hollywood. Appropriately, getting the strucYolanda, a world-famous 1940s dance “When I was ten years old, my mom ture’s layers of mustard-colored paint team who commissioned architect took us to L.A. for the first time,” says just right was particularly critical to Milton Black to create an edifice that Bobby Green, co-owner of the 1933 Green, who says he agonized over the would stand out among L.A’.s eclecGroup, which has also reimagined the “perfect shade” of hot dog-friendly yeltic urban landscape. (Even in the ’40s, Bigfoot Lodge in Los Feliz, Sassafras low until the day the stand reopened. there were structures shaped like chili Saloon in Hollywood, and the Formosa
Wag the Dog E
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Heard’s Yucca Valley home, purchased in 2019, is credited with saving the ranch for the embattled actress.
WALK THIS WAY WHAT $1 MILLION(ISH) BUYS YOU IN WALK SCORE’S TOP 10 PEDESTRIAN-FRIENDLY L.A. NEIGHBORHOODS
$
900K
C E N T R A L HOL LY WOOD
AMBER HEARD’S HOMEOWNERS POLICY MAY HAVE PAID HER LEGAL BILLS FROM JOHNNY DEPP’S DEFAMATION LAWSUIT AND TRIAL BY JESSICA RITZ
T H E S O C A L high desert
real estate market is among the hottest in the region, and its remote location has a particularly newfound appeal to one of its residents. Amber Heard’s threebedroom, three-bathroom home in Yucca Valley was purchased for $570,000 in 2019, well ahead of the price boom in neighboring Joshua Tree, Landers, and Twentynine Palms that saw the greatest gains in the state during the pandemicfueled buying frenzy. Many were baffled when it was revealed that Heard’s insurance policy on the house reportedly paid her legal fees during ex Johnny Depp’s
successful $10 million defamation lawsuit against her. But most homeowners policies cover defamation as part of the standard liability boilerplate, says real estate attorney Mark C. Carlson of Carlson Law Group in Woodland Hills. “Homeowners policies typically provide liability coverage [for defamation],” Carlson says. The catch is that “usually there’s a sublimit to the policy. So if you have a million dollars in coverage for damage to the home, there could be a lower amount available for liability claims. But generally, [the insurance company] would pick up the defense [fees].”
vated this 1912 Hollywood bungalow during his peak Mad Men fame. A mere 843 square feet—plus a vibe-loaded yard with a spa-like cabin—it’s steps from Paramount and downtown Hollywood. (Walk Score: 95)
PRICE $899,000 CONTACT Jason Woodruff, Keller Williams, 310-770-3101
$
1.1M
DOW N T OW N HIGHLIGHTS Sports and live-music fans will
appreciate the proximity to Crypto.com Arena afforded by this South Park loft. The two-bedroom, two-bath unit has a chic industrial feel and a multipurpose mezzanine. Ample public transit options are nearby. (Walk Score: 93)
PRICE $1,099,000 CONTACT Chi-Lan Lieu, Lotus Property Services, 818-925-4380
$
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reality shows immune to the reality of the rapidly cooling housing market? Netflix must hope so. This fall, the streamer will debut Buying Beverly Hills, a series starring superagent Mauricio Umansky—who’s logged untold appearances on The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills as the husband
of cast member Kyle Richards. According to Netflix, the series will be “a documentarysoap following the agents and clients” at Umansky’s The Agency in Beverly Hills, “highlighting the high-stakes world of luxury real estate in Los Angeles.” Only in L.A. does the price of high-end digs include joining the cast of a reality series.
1.8M
W E ST L OS A NGE L E S HIGHLIGHTS This 1941-vintage two-bedroom,
two-bath ranch house is in L.A.’s seventh-most walkable neighborhood, bounded by the 405 freeway, Centinela Avenue, the 10 freeway, and Wilshire Boulevard. It’s sited on a massive 7,000-square-foot lot. (Walk Score: 90)
PRICE $1.8 million CONTACT Pete Castro, Compass, 310-500-1414
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Every so often, a new hotel makes its debut and it’s obvious: the structure was born to be an icon. The July opening of the Frank Gehry-designed Conrad Los Angeles is one of those rare and magical moments. The 28-story Conrad Los Angeles makes a bold statement through its contemporary and West Coast Modernist movement styles intermingling through elements like its elevated indoor/outdoor lobby, and private pool deck overlooking DTLA. Another pairing that makes Conrad shine--interiors from Tara Bernerd & Partners that bring out the best of the Gehry-designed structure.
by Bekah Wright
Where better for this lavish structure to be located than within The Grand LA, a new destination in Downtown Los Angeles (DTLA) for shopping, dining, and entertainment. Within walking distance: The Broad Museum, Walt Disney Concert Hall, The Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), Grand Park, Colburn School, and The Music Center. Already creating a buzz is Conrad’s 10th floor with its bars, lounges, restaurants, and 16,000 square foot rooftop terrace complete with an expansive swimming pool. The influence from another notable name can be found at Conrad: Chef José Andrés. Two restaurants from Andrés proffer distinctive dining experiences. San Laurel’s menu showcases Spanish cuisine with a SoCal twist for breakfast, and dinner. On the rooftop, Agua Viva keeps taste buds alert with its mix of Latin and Asian flavors. Eye candy comes by way of the alfresco terrace, where city vistas are enhanced by west coast sunsets. Also inside this urban sanctuary is CONRAD Spa, where wellbeing is a top priority. CONRAD Spa presents a wellness journey replete with a room where sound waves and acoustical vibrations synchronize brain waves, recovery cabins just right for receiving Normatec compression therapy, an infrared sauna, and a hyper-personalized treatment menu where all services are customized to enhance the individual guests wellbeing. Which accommodations to book for an overnight stay? Reach for the sky with
presidential suites, designed to feel like the guest’s own DTLA penthouse apartment. Situated on the top floors of the hotel, each suite has a large separate living room leading out onto an oversized private terrace with unparalleled views. The master bedrooms offer sweet dreams with relaxing light oak panels, a bespoke rug and a mixture of creamy linens and pale blues. Not to be left out, a pale marble master bath with double sinks, separate rainfall shower and a freestanding bath ideally positioned in front of the window. Why will local Angelenos be making reservations as often as out-of-towners? With its bold originality, creative innovation and dynamic energy, Conrad Los Angeles is a bold step forward for Downtown LA.
Conrad Los Angeles 100 South Grand Avenue, Los Angeles losangeles.conradhotels.com
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F R O M L E F T: M E LO DY P E N G , BROOKLYN BENSON, JOHNNY DEBUT, T I M U R , SA N D R A P OW E R S , MISS KARISSA B. “BABY WESTCOAST,” CHRIS NICHOLS, CELESTE HONG, L I A M R O S H A N , TA R A CO O K , M I L E S F I S H E R , K A S I A SZ A R E K , D E N N I S D E P E W, R O RY M A N N S , G O D OY, C A LV I N D I L I B E R O.
3 6 L A M AG . C O M
G R O O M I N G : L AU R A YO U N G ; C R E W: A M A N DA YA N E Z , SA N DY R I V E R A , D O M I N I Q U E COX
H E pandemic is winding down, and L.A. is opening up in a big and wonderful way. It’s perfect timing for our 34th annual Best of L.A. issue, where a horde of reporters hit the streets in search of the city’s finest fare. From late-night bars and hangover cures to surf shops and spas—from vintage jeans and bespoke shoes to surefire datingapp pics— we’ve brought you the most exquisite offerings from our newly blooming city. And to create our Best of L.A. cover, we joined with photographer Corina Marie to recruit archetypal Angelenos—among them a yogi, a surfer, a socialite, a hasid, even the internet sensation Tom Cruise Deepfake—and asked them to gather at Tail o’ the Pup, the iconic WeHo hot dog stand, closed for a spell, but now cooking again too. Hilarity and hot dogs ensued.
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Flower-Picking
• HANA FIELD—a part of the larger Tanaka Farms —offers a tranquil location for scratching that Green Acres itch. Growers are currently offering sunflowers and will have a pumpkin patch come fall. But this is a working farm, so don’t forget your boots, and if you’re looking to take some of these gorgeous flowers home, remember to bring your own cutting utensils. 427 Anton Blvd., Costa Mesa, tanakafarms.com.
Gaming
• Want to play board
G E E KY TEAS & GAMES
Alternative Art Space
• Two years ago, galler-
ist Jay Ezra Nayssan and his boyfriend moved into Shirley Temple’s old Santa Monica home, which they quickly converted into a gallery-slash-farmstead, DEL VAZ PROJECTS, complete with a garage studio space for visiting artists and a backyard garden where the couple tends to chickens, ducks, bees, and a greenhouse adorned with a mural by artist Patricia Iglesias Peco. There’s an apothecary, too, where gallerygoers can purchase honey and homemade preserved lemons, CBD salves, and soaps by painter Marisa Takal.
By appointment, delvazprojects.com. 3 8 L A M AG . C O M
Brewpub
• With picnic tables
and a stunning view of downtown, Chinatown’s
HIGHLAND PARK BREWERY
is the perfect spot to wind down while sampling an unparalled variety of original golden lagers, pilsners, IPAs, ales, and stouts. Try exotic brews like the Lazy Susan—a sour wheat ale made with Masumoto peaches and nectarines—or the Banana Buzz Crunch, an imperial stout derived from hazelnuts, Trystero coffee, and banana puree. Sounds kooky, but adventurous brew dogs will lap it up. There’s also a menu of tasty food to help avoid a hangover. 1220 N. Spring St., Chinatown, hpb.la.
games with your friends without having to clean up your living room? Try GEEKY TEAS & GAMES , located at the edge of the Magnolia Park shopping district in Burbank. Don’t have friends? Join one of the many tournaments or just come alone—the regulars are friendly, and the ambience is geek heaven. The board-game parlor has playing areas dedicated to Dungeons & Dragons and other fandoms. And if you want to take home a living, breathing souvenir, you can even adopt one of the Geekitties from the in-house cat rescue. 2220 W. Magnolia Blvd., Burbank, geekyteas.com.
Garden Stroll
• When it comes to getting
in touch with nature—in a highly curated sort of way—it’s hard to beat THE HUNTINGTON, which has 16 themed gardens across
130 acres, including a gorgeous Chinese Garden and a Desert Garden filled with surreal cacti. But there are some man-made wonders to behold here as well, like an actual Gutenberg Bible and artworks such as Thomas Gainsborough’s famous Blue Boy and Kehinde Wiley’s A Portrait of a Young Gentleman. 1151 Oxford Rd., San Marino, huntington.org.
Gay Bar
• You don’t have to ven-
ture into West Hollywood to find a great gay bar— further east on Santa Monica Boulevard near Silver Lake, there’s the EAGLE L.A., a rocking, raunchy, Levi’s-andleather spot that proves niche can also be
EXPERT PICK
Comedy Club THE COMEDY STORE 8433 Sunset Blvd., thecomedystore.com.
> “The Comedy Store is definitely the best comedy club in L.A., if not the world. It’s the only one I work at. It’s an authentic place. It’s the original comedy club. The rooms feel well-worn and magical. Everyone who works there is a professional. The vibe is great right now because the darkness is long gone, as are the bullies and thugs. My soul lives there.” —MARC MARON, HOST WTF WITH MARC MARON
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© 2022 J. Paul Getty Trust
Giving thanks for 25 years It’s the Getty Center’s 25th anniversary, and we can’t wait to celebrate with you. Join us for a summer of festivals, concerts, special exhibitions, and family fun. Thank you for making these last 25 years unforgettable.
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nice. There’s cheap beer, nightly events (like Meat Rack Saturdays), and a bootblack to keep your shoes (and other leather goods) clean and shiny. Sadly, leather bars like this one are rapidly vanishing these days, so this Tom of Finland wonderland (packed with a diverse crowd dancing, playing pool, and generally having a good time) is a treasure worth plundering.
Late-Night Cocktail
• Practically unchanged
since its 1953 debut, with its gorgeous neon signage, old-fashioned orange-leather booths, and faux-stained-glass ceiling, CANTER’S DELI has been an after-hours hotspot since your grandparents were staying
T H E M O N TA L B Á N T H E AT E R ’ S R O O F TO P M OV I E S
up all night. While the diner is open 24 hours, the Kibitz Room—famous for its yummy Bloody Marys—closes just shy of 2 a.m. Still, it’s long been a favorite of insomniacs and late-night revelers, including Axl Rose and his bandmates. 419 N. Fairfax Ave., Fairfax District, cantersdeli.com.
New Museum
• Yes, he’s best known for
being half of the world’s most famous pothead duo, but Cheech Marin is also a world-class aficionado of Chicano art. And now his massive collection is finding a new home: the Riverside Art Museum has just turned the Riverside Public Library into a new space, appropriately named THE CHEECH , dedicated to the works Marin has accumulated over 40 years. Opening day in June brought in 20,000 visitors to what may be the only museum devoted entirely to Chicano art in the country. 3581 Mission Inn Ave., Riverside, riversideartmuseum.org. 4 0 L A M AG . C O M
Nightclub
• LA CITA BAR is pure magic, not only because it has anchored Angels Flight for the past 60 years, but because every community in our city is represented here, reveling together to punk, hiphop, and oldies, giving this club an extradinarily rocking Angeleno vibe. For a particularly happy happy hour, try Sunday Bloody Sundays, with Bloody Marys that will change the way you look at tomatoes, and a margarita that will change the way you look. 336 S. Hill Street, downtown lacitabar.com.
Outdoor Cinema
• Still feeling jittery about
returning to indoor movie theaters? Our solution is
THE MONTALBáN THEATER’S ROOFTOP MOVIES, a sea-
sonal outdoor movie screen that, every weekend from April to November, plays a mix of classic and contemporary pictures running the gamut from Clueless to The Godfather. Snack offerings come
from the delicious Village Pizzeria, and, with two hours of games before the movie starts, we find it both safe and fun to sit back with 199 new friends, sip a glass of Ramos Sangria, put on the ultra comfortable headphones, and experience a cinematic treasure without once feeling weird about going maskless. 1615 Vine St., Hollywood, themontalban.com/ rooftopmovies.
Place to Pop the Question
• Stunning seaside cliffs,
magnificent rock formations jutting from the sea, and pristine waters make EL MATADOR STATE BEACH , 12 miles north of the Malibu Pier, the perfect spot to get down on one knee. Pro tip: the beach can draw a crowd on the weekend, so consider proposing during the week—no one expects to be betrothed on a Tuesday! A close second and third for popping the question are El Matador’s sister beaches, El Pescador and La Piedra, where there are big cliffs you can
P H O T O G R A P H E D BY S TA R F O R E M A N
L A C I TA : WA R R E N H ATC H @ WA R R E N S H OT YO U
4219 Santa Monica Blvd., Hollywood, 323-669-9472.
Celebrate the art of performance at UCLA’s Royce Hall with new work by some of the most dynamic artists of our time.
2022-23 Fall/Winter Programs Tickets on sale now
cap.ucla.edu OCT 1, OCT 2, OCT 22, OCT 23 FEB 4, FEB 5, FEB 11 & FEB 12
600 Highwaymen
A Thousand Ways (Part Three): An Assembly ROYCE HALL REHEARSAL ROOM
SUN, OCT 16 AT 7PM
SAT, NOV 19 AT 8PM
Bill T. Jones/ Arnie Zane Company What Problem? ROYCE HALL
SUN, DEC 4 AT 7PM
Branford Marsalis Quartet
Seth Parker Woods
ROYCE HALL
GLORYA KAUFMAN DANCE THEATER
THU, NOV 3 AT 8PM
SAT, JAN 21 AT 8PM
Antonio Sánchez & Bad Hombre with Thana Alexa, BIGYUKI & Lex Sadler
Israel Galván & Niño de Elche
Difficult Grace
Mellizo Doble ROYCE HALL
ROYCE HALL
SAT, NOV 12 AT 8PM
THU, JAN 26 AT 8PM
Tigran Hamasyan
Cécile McLorin Salvant
ROYCE HALL
ROYCE HALL
Your health and safety remain our highest priorities, and we are continually adapting our protocols in line with state and federal guidance. Please visit cap.ucla.edu/visit for the most up-to-date information.
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in Pomona is now the red-hot center of the punk scene. For partying, there’s THE HAVEN, a dope little surf-goth club, and for browsing, there’s ZOINKS, a record store that time forgot, where you can score rare Depeche Mode vinyl, an Etta James button, and a Mötley Crüe sticker. The Haven, 296 W. 2nd St., Pomona, thehavenpomona.com; Zoinks, 226 S. Main St., Pomona, zoinksrecords.com.
Sack Lunch
• The LOS ANGELES ZOO
contemplate jumping off of if he or she has the nerve to say, “No.” 32350 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 818-880-0363.
Place to Take a Hike
• MALIBU CREEK STATE
PARK is just 25 minutes
from downtown but a world away in atmosphere. Take a short jaunt to Rock Pool, or a more ambitious stroll along the 6.6-mile Malibu Lake Trail. Better yet, practice your Charlton Heston impersonation in the exact spot where Planet of the Apes filmed that scene with a halfburied Statue of Liberty (“Damn you all to hell!”). But weekends can be crowded, so arrive early. 1925 Las Virgenes Rd., Calabasas, 805-488-1827, parks.ca.gov.
celebrity run-ins, there are a few locations that dramatically increase one’s chances of spotting a star in their natural habitat. Top of the list is the MALIBU COUNTRY MART. The tony shopping center is almost always buzzing with bold-faced names (it’s also one of the few spots left in L.A. that still attract paparazzi). “I loved covering the Malibu Country Mart for TMZ,” says onetime TMZ producer Joe Andaloro, “because I was guaranteed to see someone special every single day. Regulars include Tom Cruise, Keanu Reeves, and Janet Jackson to locals like Dick Van Dyke and Cindy Crawford.” Much like when you’re observing animals on safari, though, please don’t disturb celebs while they’re eating. 3835 Cross Creek Rd., Malibu.
Place to Watch Cher Eat Sushi
• While Angelenos have
their fair share of random 4 2 L A M AG . C O M
Punk Scene
• Like Hollywood in the
early ’90s, the Arts Colony
is practically deserted on weekdays, parking is free, and, even if it wasn’t, it’s the perfect place for a picnic. Grab a sack, a sandwich, and a sense of wonder, and sit in the aviary to revel in the quiet punctuated by chirping birds. Or find some other animals to eat with. With 133 acres filled with 1,400 beasts, you’re sure to find the perfect picnic companion.
5333 Zoo Dr., Los Feliz, lazoo.org.
Spot for a Selfie
• If it’s good enough for
Star Trek and The Flintstones movie, it’s good enough for you. Sure, it’s a bit of a schlep— about 20 miles northeast of Santa Clarita. But shooting a selfie at the
VASQUEZ ROCKS NATURAL AREA AND NATURE CENTER,
with its giant rock formations, will give your Insta thread instant cred. 10700 W. Escondido Canyon Rd., Santa Clarita, 661-268-0840
VR Gaming
• Most virtual-reality
gaming stations are pretty much the same: you sit in an uncomfortable chair, strap on a VR headset, and shoot ’em up. What makes HYPERGATE VR different, though, is that players don’t just sit on their heinies—they roam in a fully immersive world. You can all but smell the forest when you enter one of the company’s games—they develop their own avatars and 4D experiences—and nothing pumps the ticker quite like a fast-approaching horde of zombies. If it catches on in L.A., expect to see more of these places around the country; the Santa Monica site is a testing ground for expansion to other U.S. cities. 520 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, hypergatevr.com.
Zip Lines for Grown-Ups
• There’s nothing that
gets the adrenaline pumping quite like dangling by a slender cable hundreds of feet above a spiky, boulder-filled forest in the mountains. If that’s your thing, try ZIPLINE AT PACIFIC CREST, a company that organizes day-trip adventures at the Angeles National Forest on the edge of the Mojave. The all-day experience consists of six ziplines—one of which is 300 feet high and sends you zooming at 55 miles per hour— as well as two free-fall rappels and three relatively sane-sounding hikes. 6014 Park Dr., Wrightwood, 760-705-1003, ziplinespc.com.
VA S Q U E Z : SA R A H B R E W E R ; B E E T L E H O U S E L A C A ST ( L- R ) : M A D D I E ST I R R E T T, B R E N DA C A ST I L LO, B L A K E J O H N S O N , L Y L E , A L L I S O N K I N G , E M I LY G O G L I A
BOLA
Goth Escape Zach Neil’s horror-inspired restaurant and bar, Beetle House is the perfect place to take a date . . . if you happen to be dating Tim Burton. Besides the main-stage show of magicians, drag queens, fire dancers, and sword swallowers, there are costumed characters like the Joker and Willy Wonka roaming about. Order the Beetle’s Juice—a divine mix of blackberries, tequila, and blackberry schnapps—or get the Lock, Shock, and Barrel margarita flight. If you’re staying for dinner, the Sweeney Beef, served with a straight razor, is a gruesome delight. 1714 N. Las Palmas Ave., Hollywood, beetlehousela.com. P H O T O G R A P H E D BY S TA R F O R E M A N
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Bespoke Shoes
• You can find handprints
of the stars at the Chinese Theatre, but if you want to see their bare footprints, you’ve got to pay a visit to ESQUIVEL HOUSE, L.A.’s premier bespoke footwear establishment. Frequent customers Dwayne Johnson, LeBron James, and Janelle Monáe all have molds of their feet on file here, so that the shop’s craftsmen—who build every shoe by hand, toiling over table lathes like extras in a Dickens adaptation—can whip up a one-of-a-kind pair at any given moment. “We do degrees of customization for men and women,” says owner George Esquivel. “We personalize the shoes.”
820 S. Santa Fe Ave., downtown, esquivelshoes.com.
Bookstore, Indie
• After hunkering
down for the pandemic in New York, Addison Richley, a former archivist for Gagosian gallery, returned to L.A. last year to open this indie book boutique, hoping to
bring some of that NYC vibe to the West Coast. DES PAIR instantly became a local mainstay for art and film books as well as new releases. “I was pleasantly surprised to find that [NYC-type] community already existed here,” she says. “It was just a matter of fostering it.” 1543 Echo Park Ave., Echo Park, despairbooks.com.
Bridal Gowns
• You only get married
once (or, in this city, three or four times), so you might as well splurge on a wedding gown like no other. And the best place to buy a one-of-a-kind wedding-day garment is at MARK ZUNINO, the ultimate in high-end wedding couture. As the protégé to legendary designer Nolan Miller, Zunino once designed for Dynasty’s Joan Collins and then went on to build dresses for Beyoncé and J-Lo. For a price, he’ll make you look like a glamourpuss, too.
181 S. Robertson Blvd, Beverly Hills, markzunino.com.
MARC ZUNINO
Drought-Resistant Plants
• Some of the Earth’s
strangest flora—plants shaped like brains and hearts and mermaid tails—flourish at Susana Argueta’s 11:1 SUCCULENT NURSERY. But impossibly rare $1,500 specimens aren’t the only things growing here; there are also green, droughtresistant stems starting at a mere $1.35. 15237 Leffingwell Rd., Whittier, 562-946-3051.
Emergency Wine Delivery
• This legendary, old-
world wine shop, around since 1979, has saved Tinseltown assistants over and over again. Boss’s friend just had their TV show renewed? Call DU VIN to find the perfect bottle and send it over with a classy handwritten note, ASAP. Family-owned Du Vin has 4 4 L A M AG . C O M
on-trend wines, gift-wrapping, and delivery services, and near-peerless wineindustry knowledge. As owner Peter Jarjour says, “It’s been working for so long—why mess with that?” 540 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood, du-vin.net.
Florist
• You’ll know you’ve
received a bouquet from
JEAN-PASCAL even before
you see any flowers. Jean-Pascal Lemire, who opened his studio in 2017, concedes that his signature black, white, and taxicab yellow boxes and ribbons are a big part of the draw. But his arrangments—striking just the right balance between rustic and opulent, often nodding to organic garden foliage—are what keep his customers coming back again and again. Plus, his flowers can be ordered and delivered on the same day. 1318 E. 7th St., downtown, jeanpascallemire.com. P H O T O G R A P H E D BY S TA R F O R E M A N
J E A N - PA S C A L : J E A N - PA S C A L L E M I R E ; M O D E L S ( L- R ) : A N DY S I N C L A I R , B O N N I E M O R G A N
BOLA
A CUL I NARY A DVE N TUR E I S O N T H E H O RIZ ON Resting directly on the sand in Santa Monica, Shutters on the Beach and Hotel Casa del Mar are home to six memorable culinary destinations. Endless ocean views complemented by seasonal menus, craft cocktails, and live music nightly.
A luxuriant day-to-night space serving morning coffee, light meals, afternoon tea, or a night cap. Linger by the fireplace or enjoy breathtaking Santa Monica sunsets from the best seat in town.
One of Southern California’s premier beachfront dining destinations. Experience Coastal California Cuisine at its finest when you dine under the stars in the 1 Pico Courtyard.
Relax and enjoy California inspired dishes from Chef Vittorio Lucariello at Coast, a family friendly, casual environment to enjoy great food and picturesque views of the Pacific.
From simply-grilled catches to Black Angus steaks and house made pastas, Santa Monica’s preeminent ocean view restaurant is as vibrant as the California Coast it overlooks.
Taking a front row beachside seat at the foot of the iconic Hotel Casa del Mar is our new al fresco bistro, Patio del Mar. Steps from the beach, it is the perfect place for a summer lunch or sunset dinner with friends.
AND LOUNGE
Seaside restaurant serving coastal fare for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The lounge offers semi-private cabanas for intimate gatherings. Live music with breathtaking sunsets.
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looking for is not here, it will be eventually.
Furnishings
• For the last three
decades, Adam Blackman and David Cruz’s gallery-atelier-emporium of what they call “life enhancements”—furniture, lighting, art objects, plates, rugs—has attracted some of the most designconscious Angelenos. Brad Pitt, Tom Ford, and David Geffen are among BLACKMAN CRUZ’s frequent customers. The shop carries an eclectic selection of décor that includes historical pieces, artistdesigned furnishings, and found objects. The New York Times dubbed the proprietors’ unique aesthetic “macabre-chic.” 836 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, blackmancruz.com.
Hats
• GLADYS TAMEZ has
been topping fashionable heads—Lady Gaga, Cher, Lil Nas X—for more than a decade. She uses the best straw from Ecuador and the highestquality felt and takes inspiration from her travels to Spain, Mexico, Paris, and Santa Fe. One of the biggest parts of her business is collaborating on custom hats with clients. “It’s all about you wearing the hat—the hat does not wear you.”
2347 E. 8th St., downtown, 310-694-0668, gladystamez.com.
Queer-Owned Dispensary
• With so many cannabis dispensaries popping up around L.A., weeding out the good from
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3222 Los Feliz Blvd., Atwater Village, @recordsafari_la.
Retro Tees
• After you’ve checked
B L AC K M A N C R U Z
the bad can really harsh one’s buzz. But here’s one with a unique twist: GREEN QWEEN is a queerowned, -operated, and -curated downtown space that prioritizes stocking QTBIPOC brands and gives a portion of proceeds to the DTLA Proud Community Center. Cofounder Andrés Rigal believes that “cannabis retail can be glamorous and celebratory.” (Note the giant disco ball illuminated 24 hours a day.) “Cannabis holds the potential to help people recognize the connection we all share with each other and the planet.”
or have something custom-made for $3,000 to $25,000. 1046 Santee St., downtown, aprilblackdiamond.com.
Record Store
•
The world has expected the demise of record stores, but they just keep on kicking. Alex Rodriguez has built a collection of more than 50,000 records, which is part of why he was asked to curate the record tent at Coachella several years running, and why they made a doc about him. In July 2021, he opened up RECORD SAFARI. If whatever you’re
out the nostalgic neon signs and pinball machines at the VALLEY RELICS MUSEUM, you’re obviously going to want a T-shirt. Luckily, there happens to be a museum gift shop on the premises, filled with scores of tees with some incredibly cool old logos, like Pup ‘n’ Taco and Love’s Wood Pit Barbecue. The museum acquired the abandoned trademarks for dozens of defunct brands and created a line of apparel showcasing the Valley’s vanished landmarks. Yes, that’s right, you can now rock out in your shirt from Licorice Pizza while watching Licorice Pizza.
7900 Balboa Blvd., Lake Balboa, valleyrelicsmuseum.org.
Scents
• SCENT BAR HOLLYWOOD,
founded in 2004 by Franco Wright and Adam Eastwood, isn’t just the
1051 S. Broadway, downtown, linktr.ee/shopgreenqween.
Quinceañera Dresses
• Originally from Mexico,
designer APRIL BLACK DIAMOND travels the world
selecting special silks and beads to create jaw-dropping luxury gowns that would make a Disney princess jealous. Customers can select from a rainbow of ready-made catalog designs starting at $700
B L AC K M A N C R U Z : I A N H U G H E S ; G L A DYS TA M E Z : E D U R N E SA L A S
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CELEBRATI NG 1OO O YEARS OF SUMMER
TICKETS ON SALE NOW!
HERBIE HANCOCK
JOSHUA BELL
GUSTAVO DUDAMEL
CHUCHO VALDÉS
DIANA ROSS
LANG LANG
DURAN DURAN
RANDALL GOOSBY
GRACE JONES
CHVRCHES
ISATA KANNEH-MASON
THE GIPSY KINGS FEAT. NICOLAS REYES
PENTATONIX
AND MANY MORE!
hollywoodbowl.com Groups (10+) 323 850 2050
323 850 2000
Parking, shuttle, and venue policies at hollywoodbowl.com/gettinghere
Programs, artists, prices, and dates subject to change.
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EXPERT PICK
Men’s Store THE OPTIMIST
8820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, theoptimistla.com.
> “The Optimist is the men’s store where I pull the most for clients. The buyer has an amazing eye, and I discover a lot of new favorite indie brands there. I would buy almost every piece in there for my jobs or for my hubby. “ —ILARIA URBINATI, STYLIST TO RAMI MALEK, RYAN GOSLING, TYLER PERRY, BEN AFFLECK, DONALD GLOVER, MILO VENTIMIGLIA, AND MORE.
most eclectic fragrance boutique in L.A.—it also happens to be one of the best in the world, carrying everything from established scents like Byredo to artisanal brands like Portland’s Slumberhouse and Maison Rebatchi. Belly up to the “bar” stocked with glass wonders and the staff will spend hours helping you find your signature smell from categories like “incense,” “smoky,” and our favorite, “boozy.” 7405 Beverly Blvd., Fairfax District, luckyscent.com.
Secondhand Clothing
• An outdoor event held
every second Saturday of the month, THE PICKWICK VINTAGE SHOW showcases 65 different vendors at its new venue at Row DTLA. It’s a little pricey, 4 8 L A M AG . C O M
but you get gem after gem instead of having to sift through junk to get to the jewels. There’s vintage from designers like Galliano, Versace, and Gucci. 777 S. Alameda St., downtown, pickwickvintage.com.
Surf Shop
• With California’s
official state sport still growing in popularity, finding the right gear is key. That’s why everyone heads to MOLLUSK in Venice. Family-owned, the shop prides itself on being user-friendly. “We try to keep the store stocked with everything from someone’s first surf board to someone’s 20th board,” Mollusk manager Beau DiFiore says. Most of Mollusk’s surf craft is sourced locally in small batches from artisan shapers, and the selection reflects the shop’s nostalgic aesthetic. 1600 Pacific Ave., Venice, mollusksurfshop.com.
Tackle Store
• Despite its location in
landlocked Van Nuys, BOB SANDS FISHING TACKLE has
been reeling in customers since 1970, not because its gear is different from that at other tackle shops but because the staffers are all anglers intimately familiar with every body of water in L.A. County. From the Pacific Ocean to lakes like Castaic, there’s no question they can’t answer.
6743 Sepulveda Blvd., Van Nuys, 818-994-1822.
Vintage Jeans
• In 2013, Jason Husby
lined the walls of an old school bus with beautiful wood panels and shelves to create his rolling vintage denim shop, DIG RIGG. The 37-year-old caters to a Westside clientele, who clamor to find out where to meet the bus in Venice so that they can browse and buy 501 Levi’s from the ’90s, Lees from the ’70s,
and ’90s Wranglers. Best of all, Husby can size up anyone and figure out which jeans will fit best. By appointment. 310-529 -4802.
Wigs
• Most wigs are sold as
one-size-fits-all clumps in a plastic bag. But at OUTFITTERS WIG, customers can come in with sketches of their fantasy hair, or just describe the wig of their wildest dreams, and gifted stylists will make it happen. Open since 1969, the shop has a loyal client base that includes performers, cosplayers, drag artists, and everyday wig-wearers. Whether you are looking for extreme hair like the various Drag Race contestants who are regulars or just want to feel like someone else for a bit, owners Bebe and John Sikora understand; they know how therapeutic wigs can be.
6626 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, outfitterswig.com.
DIG RIGG U R B I N AT I : J O H N S C I U L L I /G E T T Y I M AG E S FO R B E V E R LY C E N T E R ; D I G R I G G : JA S O N H U S BY, @ T H E D I G R I G G
BOLA
DatingProfile Pic
Actress turned headshot photographer Leah Huebner is so successful at creating the most captivating, right-swipeworthy photos, her clients need spreadsheets to track their dates. While other photographers cram clients into their days, Huebner is known for taking only a few jobs a week, resulting in the best, most personalized photos (and a six-month waiting list). According to one actor, “I saw an overnight difference on my profile, which at this point in my life means more to me than acting jobs.” huebnerheadshots.com. P H O T O G R A P H S BY LEAH HUEBNER
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means “delicious” in Vietnamese, so when Pho Ngoon debuted in 2014, Hoang added an extra “O” to the name to emphasize the bold flavors.
Chili Cheese Fries Upgrade
• Altadena’s family-owned
fast-food joint, EVEREST, reigns supreme for one brain-breaking invention: Game Time, a marriage of pastrami and chili cheese fries or, as managing partner Louis Kades likes to say, “the best of everything.” The dish was invented so that many people could share food over a football or Lakers game. It comes in one of those takeout cartons that could double as a shoebox, and Kades isn’t lying: there’s nothing better. 2314 Lake Ave., Altadena, everestaltadena.com.
Cinnamon Bun with an L.A. Twist
• Cinnamon buns can
be great plain, sticky, or slathered with
EXPERT PICK
Place to Eat
THE ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET 6333 W. 3rd St., Fairfax, farmersmarketla.com.
> “When I first moved here from New York, I didn’t really get L.A. until I went to the Farmers Market on Third. I was charmed by its history, the layout, the peoplewatching. I’m still there once a week for a breakfast or lunch— sometimes dinner. It’s L.A.’s center for me.” —PHIL ROSENTHAL, STAR OF SOMEBODY FEED PHIL AND I’LL HAVE WHAT PHIL’S HAVING
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741 E. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel, 626-872-2729.
Hangover Cure cream cheese frosting, but DOUBTING THOMAS chef-owner Naomi Peteu figured out a unique way to brighten up this ubiquitous pastry: She opted for California citrus—often Tahoe Gold tangerines from Friend’s Ranch in Ojai or sometimes tangelos—and buttery, pull-apart croissant dough coated with brown sugar and zest. Baking produces a soft core and crispy coat crusted with tangy caramel sauce and glazed with tangerine juice and crème fraîche. 2510 W. Temple St., Historic Filipinotown, doubtingthomas.la.
Croissants, Italian-Style
• Leave the cannoli,
take the cornetti—especially one made by Marlo and Gianba Vinzoni at CINQUE TERRE WEST. These flaky tastebud ticklers—sort of Italianstyle croissants—are fast becoming a staple for Westsiders. They come in chocolate, sugar, pesto with cherry tomatoes, plain, or pork belly with cheese. Of course, the rest of the menu, inspired by the small Mediterranean coastal villages of the Cinque
Terre region, is also outstanding, but, honestly, these Sunday cornettis will make you skip church. 970 Monument St., Ste. 110, Pacific Palisades, cinqueterrewest.com.
Eggroll, Squared
• Not all egg rolls can
actually roll. At PHO NGOON in San Gabriel,
Hanoi native Dustin Hoang serves a square northern Vietnamese version called nem cua bê, rice paper wrappers that contain ground crab, pork, egg, carrots, wood ear mushrooms, and glass noodles. The restaurant serves the blistered packets atop rice vermicelli with lettuce wraps, vegetables, herbs, and nuoc cham (seasoned fish sauce) for dipping. Ngon
• Since the ’70s, LUCKY BOY’s breakfast burrito
has saved those with early morning woes. Densely packed, it’s a tasty maelstrom of way too much scrambled eggs, American cheese, meat, and hash browns. You don’t have to be under the influence to enjoy—just know that it works better than Pedialyte. The secret? Says VP Christina Karagias, “Butter and 50 years of grease on the grill.” 640 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena, luckyboyburgers.com.
Hispanic Cold Brew
• When the coffee bar GREY & CASH debuted
in 2017, owner Alfonso Arellano created a James Brown latte featuring brown sugar, vanilla extract, and cinnamon. “Growing up in a Hispanic
PHO NGOON
C I N Q U E T E R R E W E ST: E L I Z A B E T H D I XO N ; R O S E N T H A L : M I C H A E L B E Z J I A N / W I R E I M AG E FO R T H E A R T I STS P R OJ E C T; P H O N G O O N : I N STAG R A M .CO M / P H O _ N G O O N /
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PROMOTION
Join us at The Bloc for the first in our series of whiskey festivals across the southland! Take a deep dive into the world of whiskey – meet master distillers, sip the finest selections, learn fresh cocktail recipes and experience new labels. Enjoy gourmet hors d’oeuvres, live music and unique experiences that will complement the bespoke tasting atmosphere.
Friday, August 19, 7 – 9 p.m. The Bloc, DTLA 700 West 7th Street Tickets are on sale now at
lamag.com/whiskeyfestival Tickets coming soon for the following events
September 22, 7–9 p.m. LBX, The Hangar
October 2022
November 2022
Whiskey Festival DTLA Partners
CALI Distillery
Always w e a r y our s e a t b e l t . P l e a s e d on’t d r i nk a nd d r i v e .
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household, cinnamon in our coffee is a staple, and I wanted to sweeten it with brown sugar to deepen the flavor,” he says. To maximize refreshment, he kegged a version with potent cold-brew concentrate, oat milk, and nitrogen, which creates a cool, frothy, cascading concoction baristas dust with cinnamon. 425 S. Myrtle Ave., Monrovia, greyandcashmonrovia.com.
Kitschy Italian Deli
• Bay Cities in Santa
Monica is older, Mario’s in Glendale might make a better meatball, but we’re going with CLARO’S for the overall sensazione at this third-generation family deli. The aroma of anise when you enter through the bakery, the stack of Italian newspapers, and the Kiss Me, I’m Italian kitsch on the shelves won us over. The stuffed cold-cut sandwiches are ginormous, and you can even pick up an 18-pound lasagna (or gluten-free, vegan kaleand-mushroom ravioli) to go. The original location (there are now six) opened in 1948, and mama Claro’s cookbooks on the shelves make you feel like part of the family. 1003 E. Valley Blvd., San Gabriel, claros.com.
Korean Dish Not in K-Town
• K-Town has the highest concentration of Korean food in the U.S., but it doesn’t get all the hits. JIN COOK works wonders with “authentic Korean soul food” in Glendale. 5 2 L A M AG . C O M
This homey restaurant, with a dining room that resembles a Korean village, brings sparkle to dishes like spicy pork. Thinly sliced, marinated pork-neck meat arrives sizzling in a stone bowl. The meat gets crusty and caramelized and reaches hyperdrive when showered with supplemental shredded mozzarella, which magically melds with the spicy meat and enables cheese pulls galore. 310 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 818-637-7822.
Margarita and Mezcal
• While the ingredients
are essential—tequila, lemon, lime, naranja, triple sec, azucar, and hibiscus salt—it’s the blend that makes this potent potable go down so easy. Opened in 2012 as a popup speakeasy called Sip and offering live music and killer cocktails, this enterprise frequently changed locations until arriving at its current Echo Park home as BAR FLORES. Yes, the margaritas are grand, but so are the mezcal
and the micheladas. 1542 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, barflores.com.
Micro Market
• Chef and gardener
Marta Teegen opened her “micro-grocery,” COOKBOOK, with partner Robert Stelzner in 2010, and although they sold it in 2020 to the team behind Jon & Vinny’s, the new owners have pledged to continue providing high-quality products while executing Teegen and Stelzner’s original vision. Think chewy morning buns, literally perfect peaches, and an impeccably curated selection of cheeses, meats, tapenades, pickles, and tinned fish. Freshly prepared and frozen foods intermingle with dry goods and international provisions, like BAR FLORES
Japan’s Kewpie mayo and Oaxacan mole starter. Arrive early for the best selection—and during peak hours, be prepared to wait to shop the 500-square-foot former art gallery space. 1549 Echo Park Ave., Echo Park, cookbookla.com.
Pasta
• With one foot in
Bologna and the other in L.A., ROSSOBLU chefowner Steve Samson is a man who knows his pasta. Irregularly cut maltagliati with octopus, red wine, arugula, and Calabrian chili is tasty enough to make a sister drop her rosary. But the tagliatelle tossed with ragù Bolognese and nutty Parmesan will make you a true convert. It’s no wonder this labor of love is the winner of Michelin’s Bib Gourmand Award. 1124 San Julian St., downtown, rossoblula.com.
Pizza Sandwich
• At SUPERFINE,
Rossoblu’s casual Fashion District spinoff, lead pizzaiolo Dresden Kaiser introduced panuozzo, a novel Italian sandwich that originated at Pizzeria Mascolo in Gragnano, near Naples. Here, housemade pizza dough is stretched until a pocket forms, soft at the bottom,
R O S S O B LU : J OY L I M A N O N ; B A R F LO R E S : K E V I N V U K I M
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Savory Moments
Undiscovered
Trails
Luxe Life
P H OTO C R E D I T, L E F T TO R I G H T : A N D R E A B R I C C O ; R E N É + R A D K A ; C H A D R E S S
IT’S ALL HERE
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crackers. Can’t decide between the Elvis or the PB&J? Try a flight of three smaller treats. 922 W. Covina Pkwy., West Covina, smoreology.com.
Taco Sampler
• In a city of limitless
S’MOREOLOGY
crispy up top, and coated with sharp grated Grana Padano. This version stars capocollo, a pork salami that’s butchered, spicecured, and wood-smoked in-house. Melted mozzarella, provolone, red onions, and bitter escarole round out the fillings. This sandwich is a savory tour de force. 1101 San Pedro St., downtown, superfinepizza.com.
Place to Have a Cow
• CHI SPACCA, the best Northern Italian steak restaurant in the city, serves a bistecca alla Fiorentina so tender that it would make a vegan blush. In this meat-eater’s paradise, the cuisine comes courtesy of 2014 James Beard Awardwinning chef Nancy Silverton, owner of Osteria Mozza, and Mozza2Go. And if red meat’s not your thing, try the chicken or octopus. But if it is, take some of the cured meats home—you’ll thank us. 6610 Melrose Ave., Hancock Park, chispacca.com.
Smash Burger
• It’s become easier to find a great smash burger in L.A., but HANGABURS
takes the thin, crispy patties in an exciting new direction. Alicia Lopez and Cecilia Ledezma turned their pandemic pivot into a destination pop-up. A burger with ham and panela cheese that the couple enjoyed on a trip to see family in Nayarit informs their signature Tepic burger. Luscious ground Angus chuck patties with lacy edges host grilled ham, American cheese, grilled panela cheese, grilled onions, tomatoes, ketchup, and house-made spicy mustard crema on a soft, butter-toasted bun. @hangaburs.
S’mores
• Families line up to
enjoy the campfire treat at the newly renovated midcentury roadside stand S’MOREOLOGY. Noelle Ramirez was burning the midnight oil to launch her homemade s’more shop last year. “We go through torches like crazy,” the former graphic designer says. “My wife was nonstop blowtorching.” The former Smorgasburg pop-up melts chocolate between handmade marshmallows and Ramirez’s graham
options, GUISADOS saves the indecisive eater. Snag its sampler, which boasts six mini tacos. Owner Armando De La Torre Jr. describes the O.G. combo as “a trip through Mexico,” one that showcases different regions of the country with its wonderful blend of authentic braises and other slow-cooked flavors: steak picado, bistek en salsa roja, tinga de pollo, mole poblano, chicharron in chile verde, and cochinita pibil. Sate your hunger, and say goodbye to choice anxiety.
2100 E. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., Boyle Heights, guisadosla.com.
Tasting Menu
• When you come to a fork
in the road on your way west, choose the way that leads to MĖLISSE. With locally sourced ingredients, the seven-course tasting
menu is a collaborative dialogue between diner and chef-owner Josiah Citrin as he walks you down a pathway to gourmet greatness, highlighting flavors from around the world. There’s a good reason Mélisse earned two Michelin stars in 2008, 2009 and 2021. 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, citrinandmelisse.com.
Vegan Ice Cream. Seriously
• If you think vegan
ice cream is less creamy or flavorful than dairy, you definitely have not been to AWAN, in a little kiosk off Santa Monica Boulevard. Owner Zen Ong, former pastry chef at E.P. & L.P., has created an Indonesian-style, gelatolike texture by using coconut cream and coconut water as a base, plus Balinese vanilla beans. Unique flavors like tortilla and lemongrass, and classic ones like vanilla and mint chip, are all comprised of rich Indonesian ingredients blended with California produce.
866 Huntley Dr., West Hollywood, enjoyawan.com. S ’ M O R E O LO GY: E L I M I Z R A H I ; H A N G A B U R S : A N G E LO A L M O N T E / @ D U M B N H U N G RY
BOLA
SAVE THE DATE
PHOTO CREDIT: KIERNAN MICHELLE PHOTOGRAPHY AND DEVIN BURKO
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 23
JOIN US AT OUR 16TH ANNUAL CULINARY FESTIVAL FEATURING NOTABLE CHEFS, ICONIC L.A. RESTAURANTS, CRAFT BREWS, BOUTIQUE WINES, AND SPIRITS TASTINGS. Venue and Host Partner
HUMMINGBIRD NEST RANCH 2940 KUEHNER DR, SIMI VALLEY, CA 93063
TICKETS ON SALE NOW lamag.com/thefoodevent2022
Must be age 21+ to attend. Please don’t drink and drive. Event details subject to change.
PROMOTION
Guests enjoyed a tasty preview of the summer grilling season with Burgers Bourbon + Beer at The Bloc on May 19th. Los Angeles magazine brought the burger battle to DTLA with some of the best burgers in town along with a selection of top bourbons and some killer craft brews. Surrounded by soaring skyscrapers the event took place on a perfect late spring night under the stars at The Bloc in the heart of Downtown Los Angeles. Guests sampled generous portions from STK Steakhouse, District Restaurant, Proudly Serving, TRIPP Burgers, Honeybee Burgers, Say it Ain’t So, Rumba Kitchen and Holy Cow, all serving up perfectly grilled burgers with flair. Not to be outdone, Maker’s Mark delivered with signature handcrafted cocktails and custom sauced fries. Also, generous pours from Corbin Cash, Uncle Nearest, Bardstown and Broken Barrel were enjoyed along with Plant Botanical canned cocktails and out of this world mocktails from Lyre’s non-alcoholic drinks, BOOMTOWN Brewery beers and of course the best water around, Mountain Valley Spring Water in their signature green bottles. The event was supported by Yelp and the event’s charity partner was LA Works.
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Now what you have been waiting for, drumroll please. This year’s winner voted by the 400+ guests that attended that night was STK Steakhouse Los Angeles. Although STK Steakhouse garnered one third of all votes, contenders like Proudly Serving, TRIPP Burgers and District at The Bloc were close runner ups. Congratulations to all the amazing burgers presented. It was a spectacular event and a success for Burgers Bourbon and Beer.
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1. Happy guests enjoying some Boomtown Brewery beers 2. The Bloc, our dreamy home for this year’s event 3. Maker’s Mark ready to serve up delicious cocktails 4. District restaurant serving up some tasty burgers and yuca fries 5. All events are better surrounded by your good friends 6. Guests cooling off with Plant Botanical drinks 7. STK serving up perfect little burgers 8. Dapper guest enjoying a night of burgers 9. Smiles all around at a great event 10. Uncle Nearest premium whiskey 11. Broken Barrel whiskey premium offerings 12. Mountain Valley Spring Water keeps guests hydrated with premium water 13. Guests enjoying some Maker’s Mark cocktails 14. Guests checking out Lyre’s non-alcoholic drinks
PROMOTION
PARTICIPATING RESTAURANTS WINNER
STK Steakhouse
District - DTLA
Holy Cow BBQ
Honeybee Burger
4130 Sepulveda Blvd. Culver City 424.298.822 holycowbbq.com
345 N. La Brea Los Angeles 323.452.6024 honeybeeburger.com
Rumba Kitchen
Say It Ain’t So
Tripp Burgers
123 Astronaut Ellison S. Onizuka St. Los Angeles 213.265.7899 rumbakitchen.com
11136 Magnolia Blvd. North Hollywood 818.290.8782 sayitaintsopb.com
3458 S. Sepulveda Blvd. Los Angeles 310.750.5728 trippburgers.com
700 W. 7th St. Los Angeles 213.612.3185 districtdtla.com
(3 Locations)
Proudly Serving 136 International Boardwalk Redondo Beach 310.376.0003 proudlyservingla.com
930 Hilgard Ave. Los Angeles 310.659.3535 STKSteakhouse.com
(2 Locations)
P H O T O C R E D I T: R U S H V A R E L A
STK Steakhouse artfully blends the modern steakhouse and chic lounge into one VIBE DINING experience. Theatrical lights illuminate each table, while a DJ creates an energetic vibe throughout the entire space. While the main attraction is steak, signature items include Lil’ BRGs, Seafood Towers, Daily Market Fish & Sweet Corn Pudding. STK Steakhouse also features Happy Hour every Monday – Friday from 3-6:30pm, Date Night Dinner for Two every Sunday through Wednesday, and BOTTOMLESS MIMOSA & BLOODY MARY Weekend Brunch.
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H E A LT H & B E A U T Y
Keratin Hair Treatment
• Today’s keratin hair
646 N. Doheny, West Hollywood, B2VSalon.com.
Lash Lift
• While waxing waned
during the pandemic, lash lifts only got hotter. This lifting-and-
curling treatment akin to a perm is one of the most requested at Silver Lake’s STARK STUDIO. Its secret to look-at-me lashes? Never overprocessing and using high-quality ingredients. “We pair our lash lifts with an ultranourishing keratin treatment to deeply condition,” manager Daniela Del Gaudio explains. For added oomph, try a color boost. 3335 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, hellostarkstudio.com.
EXPERT PICK
Beauty Supplies FRENDS BEAUTY SUPPLY
5244 Laurel Canyon Blvd., North Hollywood, frendsbeauty.com
> ”My favorite supply shop in L.A. is Frends Beauty Supply at Laurel Canyon. Frends has impossible-to-find Anna Sui cosmetics and Kjaer Weis. I also love Nigel Beauty Emporium on Magnolia Boulevard. They carry Jurlique and Kevyn Aucoin.” —KATHY JEUNG, MAKEUP ARTIST TO TIFFANY HADDISH, GWEN STEFANI, AND PINK
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Luxe Spa
• Only at the Waldorf
Astoria Beverly Hills LA PRAIRIE SPA can you get the Diamond Day—fiveplus hours in paradise that include the Diamond Perfection body treatment and Signature La Prairie facial as well as a champagne lunch at the rooftop restaurant. The Swiss Bliss offers three hours of heaven, including scalp shiatsu and a caviar facial, just two of the many reasons La Prairie was rated five stars by Forbes Travel Guide. Arrive craving solace, depart a goddess.
9850 Wilshire Blvd., waldorfastoriabeverlyhills.com/ spa-wellness.
Mani-Pedi (Without Leaving Home)
• When your claws are
ratty and you don’t feel like using them to grip a steering wheel, call LARRY VO, who’ll do your nails in your own backyard. During COVID, when Hollywood women did regular outdoor pedicure parties, Vo’s lightheartedness fit right in. He does a heavenly hour-long pedicure, and tired feet suddenly come back to life in his firm grasp. You can also visit him at his Culver City salon.)
4909 Sycamore Dr., Culver City, 310-396-6869.
Place to Sober Up
• L.A. has a thriving
wellness community, as well as a lot of drunks and drug addicts, which explains why there are more than 300 in-person rehab facilities here. But if you want to get clean the old-fashioned, 12-step way, our favorite AA meeting resides not in a church basement but upstairs at THE RAINBOW BAR & GRILL . Yes, the notorious Sunset Strip
hellraiser joint offers one of the most inspiring and welcoming recovery meetings. Think about it: would you rather spend $80,000 for an opulent two-week stint at a rehab facility that offers “equine therapy”? Or would you be happier reciting the Serenity Prayer on the same sticky floor where Alice Cooper and Harry Nilsson became full-blown alcoholics? 9015 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood. alcoholics anonymous.com/aa-meeting/ rainbow-meeting.
Women’s ’Do
• As if MARA ROSZAK’s client list wasn’t enough to let you know she’s the top of the Hollywood-hair heap—Emma Stone, Zoe Saldaña, Nicole Kidman, Natalie Portman, to name a few—you can witness that every cut and style she pulls out of her magician’s hat every day is varied, chic, subtle—perfect for each particular head-to-toe look. What does Roszak herself attribute her popularity to? “I’m a really good listener.” Mare Salon, 152 N. Wetherly Dr., Beverly Hills, maresalon.com.
L A P R A I R I E S PA : WA L D O R F A STO R I A B E V E R LY H I L L S ; J E U N G : DAV I D C R OT T Y/ PAT R I C K M C M U L L A N V I A G E T T Y I M AG E S
treatment is smarter than it was in the early aughts when it was known as the Brazilian blow dry. B2V Salon’s ADAM PARDYJAK has been doing the treatments daily since forever, and now he’s doing it several times a day since more and more Hollywood clients are asking to have it done for straighter, shinier, more manageable hair. “It strengthens your hair,” says Pardyjak, “makes it more lustrous, easier to grow it out.”
Men’s Hair Jason Schneidman is one in-demand dude: “One day this week, I did ten haircuts in the Venice shop, went to The Late Late Show where I do James Corden every day, and did Bill Clinton.” What makes Schneidman so sought-after? “I love a transformation,” he says. “Men don’t have too many things they can pull off to look cool. Hair is our peacock feathers. I like a good hairstyle to bloom!” The Men’s Groomer, 2518 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, themensgroomer.com. P H O T O G R A P H E D BY S TA R F O R E M A N
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PETS
webcams. Other services include transportation, grooming, and training. (For a pet vacation in town, try D Pet Hotels.)
Big Birds
• Want to get so close
to a hawk that you can feel its talons gripping your arm? Since 2002,
10268 La Tuna Canyon Rd., Sun Valley, paradiseranch.net.
CALIFORNIA FALCONRY
has offered training and interactive educational experiences with big birds. Professional falconer Ken Miknuk says, “A hawk is like a dog with feathers; they are very gregarious pack animals.” Whether you want to learn how to work with your own creature or just a cool photo op, Miknuk’s five falcons and pair of hawks are fascinating for the whole family—especially kids, whom Miknuk believes “love to learn about the similarities between birds of prey and airplanes.” 47215 Blazing Star Lane, Palm Desert, cafalconry.com.
Cat House
• At CRUMBS & WHISKERS cat and kitten café, you can help save cats from the streets and high-kill shelters while lapping up
Treats
• Whether you’re looking
a purrfect cappuccino. Since opening in 2015, the café has helped spare thousands of felines by showcasing them in an interactive, Instagramworthy setting. Wear comfy lounge gear, slip off your shoes, and wander the open, neon-lit space before plopping down on a poofy cushion—next to a new furry friend and his favorite toy. All the cats are adoptable through the Cat’s Meow. Reservations are recommended. 7924 Melrose Ave., Beverly Grove, crumbsandwhiskers.com.
Couture
• What better way to let
CRUMBS & WHISKERS
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our beloved pets’ furry personalities shine than with custom couture? Yana Syrkin, the owner of FIFI & ROMEO, has worked with luminaries like Oprah Winfrey, Elton John, and Prince Charles to produce some of the finest pet attire available. Despite COVID-19 closing her Fairfax District shop, Syrkin continues to collaborate with clients. From accessories to clothing, this is the place to pamper the ones that love you unconditionally. fifiandromeo.com.
Dog Beach
• Nobody is ever stuck in
the doghouse at ROSIE’S DOG BEACH. As the only
off-leash canine beach in L.A., this 2.8-acre stretch of surf and sand welcomes dogs of all breeds and sizes. Plentiful parking and a skyline dotted with kitesurfers from the adjacent beach make this an idyllic day trip for you and your best friend. Come on a weekday morning or evening and have the beach to yourselves, or stop by on a weekend and let your buddy make friends. 5000 E. Ocean Blvd., Long Beach, longbeach.gov.
Pet Hotel
• Two words about
PARADISE RANCH PET RESORT that your dog will
learn to love: “water” and “park.” Created by Kristyn Goddard, this cage-free concept provides a safe environment for your pet to thrive in while you take off on your own adventure. Whether it’s just for the day or a weeklong stay, pools, fountains, and maybe even a boogie board await. Pet owners experiencing separation anxiety can watch their pooch from afar via one of the 26
for treats for training your canine or simply want to buy her a custom cake, THE DOG BAKERY provides some of the best allnatural, handmade treats in L.A. From jerky and biscuits to a Mutter Butter Bar or a Barkin Brownie, goodies here will keep tails wagging all day. (If you’re a cat person, there are treats for felines too.) Find them in four locations— Belmont Shore, Venice, Pasadena, and at the Original Farmers Market. thedogbakery.com.
EXPERT PICK
Pet Rescue WAGS & WALKS 2236 Federal Ave., Sawtelle, wagsandwalks.org
> “I adopted my dogs Charlie and Bowie from Wags & Walks, a great nonprofit here in L.A. It’s mostly puppies and moms. And I love Stand Up for Pits Foundation. The staff have dedicated their lives to rescuing and adopting out pit bulls, spreading awareness of how kind and gentle they truly are.” —CHRISTINA MOSES, ANIMAL ADVOCATE AND ACTRESS ON A MILLION LITTLE THINGS
C R U M B S & W H I S K E R S : CO U R T E SY C R U M B S & W H I S K E R S ; F I F I & R O M E O : CO U R T E SY F I F I & R O M E O ; M O S E S : J I M S P E L L M A N / W I R E I M AG E
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R E PA I R S & S E R V I C E S
Alterations
• Ask costume designers,
actors, sports stars, or Hollywood stylists—just about anybody who needs to look good for a living—and they’ll tell you that there are three things that determine if an outfit is flattering or not: fit, fit, and, of course, fit. That’s why so many of them turn to SHIRLEY LIPSCOMB, a 30-year vet of tailoring clothing for both celebrities and civilians. Lipscomb has hemmed and sewn for the likes of Elon Musk, Liam Neeson, and Ryan Gosling, among other luminaries, making garments hang gorgeously on every sort of body type. She also designs and sews her own dresses and suits. By appointment, 323-646-3529, SF50@icloud.com.
Cameras
• Anybody who’s ever
owned—and dropped—a high-end camera can tell
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you that repairs aren’t just costly; they also can take forever. That’s because most camera stores simply ship your equipment out to factory service centers, and the turnaround times can be generously described as glacial. But not WALTER’S CAMERA AND DIGITAL REPAIRS. Since 1952, this tiny shop has been doing all its repairs in-house, offering the quickest service in town at sometimes half the cost of the bigger chains. Plus it has a Kodak-moment history: When its original owner, Sam Walters, retired, he passed the store down to his No. 1 technician, who, years later, gave it to his best worker. “Yes, we pretty much pass the shop from master to apprentice,” its current owner, Rodolfo Woessner, says. “Someday, I will pass it to whoever is best.” 811 W. Cesar E. Chavez Ave., Chinatown, 213-620-1550.
Jewelry
• “We replace stones, we
solder chains, do prong retipping, restringing, clasp repairs, and polish and refinish jewelry,” says Daniel Weiss, owner,
with his wife, Sara, of WEISS JEWELRY. They also design and sell their own pieces. The business, which was started by Weiss’s parents, has been at the Original Farmers Market for 25 years, and takes every job personally. “I’m repairing pieces with a lot of meaning,” he says. “I try to understand the personalities of the owners, so we can actually maximize that.” 6333 W. 3rd St., Ste. 738, Fairfax District, weissjewelry-la.com.
Outdated Tech
• Since 1991, Joe Levi at
STONE ELECTRONICS has been L.A.’s most trusted repair person for vintage contraptions. He’ll fix just about anything—record players, radios, laser disc players, antiquated amplifiers, VCRs, and high-end receivers—but he’s particularly intrigued by pre-1960s electronics. The oldest item he’s ever restored was a 1931 tube radio, he says, but he’s always up for a challenge. Levi believes he’s outlasted his peers, who have all closed shop due to rising rents and cheaper
EXPERT PICK
Men’s Tailor ISAIA
9527 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 424-204-1169
> “It’s the most incredible craftsmanship, fabrics, and precise tailoring I have ever experienced.” —JEFF KLEIN, PROPRIETOR OF SUNSET TOWER AND SAN VICENTE BUNGALOWS
new electronics, because of hard work and a personal touch. “People bring things with sentimental value. I appreciate that.” 7928 Beverly Blvd., Beverly Grove, stoneelectronics.com.
Shoes and Bags
• His customer list reads
like pages from the Hollywood trades: in June alone, clients included Doja Cat, Lizzo, Rihanna, Khloé Kardashian, and Avril Lavigne. For more than 60 years, Pasquale Fabrizio, owner of PASQUALE SHOE REPAIR, has been keeping L.A.’s well-heeled residents, well, well-heeled, even in their oldest shoes. “Without passion, dedication, hard work, and commitment to quality, I can’t function,” he says of his cobbler creed. Pasquale and his staff dye, clean, and refurbish shoes, sneakers, boots, and bags. 5616 San Vicente Blvd., Mid- Wilshire. pasqualeshoerepair.com.
PA S Q UA L E : @ PA S Q UA L E S H O E R E PA I R ; R A D I O : G E T T Y I M AG E S / I STO C K P H OTO ; K L E I N : TO D D W I L L I A M S O N /G E T T Y I M AG E S FO R B L E E C K E R ST R E E T
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LIST
Photo credit: Para Los Niños
Skechers Serves up Pickleball in Manhattan Beach Athletes and celebrities alike will be competing at the premiere Pickleball Invitational in Manhattan Beach starting August 4, with the new Skechers Viper Court pickleball footwear available for purchase at event, Skechers stores or online. skechers.com
2022 Para Los Niños Annual Benefit May 19 On May 19th Para Los Niños brough together 250+ of Los Angeles’ corporate and philanthropic leaders to help children and youth thrive. The event celebrated their work and honored the dedication of long-time supporters Cindy and Jake Winebaum, PLN VP of Early Education Dr. Angela Capone, and LA County Office of Education Executive Director Keesha Woods.
Photo credit: William Kidston
paralosninos.org/2022annualbenefit
Shine Bright, LA’s BEST Spring 2022 Gala May 19 Shine Bright at Banc of California Stadium was full of energy, inspiration, and support for LA’s BEST kids! Students performed and host Michaela Pereira and honorees Chris Dusseault, Christine Simmons and Vanessa Diaz Lark along with singer/songwriters Alexander 23 and Emi Seacrest dazzled LA’s chic and influential philanthropic community. lasbest.org/gala2022 From Top: LA’s BEST Board Members (photo credit: Jonah Light); Honoree Christine Simmons w/ friends (photo credit: Sharon Feder); Students performing Folklorico (photo credit: Lauren Mayne)
17th annual LAWineFest June 4 and 5 Nearly 8,000 wine lovers were ready for a sunny two-day LAWineFest at Harry Bridges Memorial Park in Long Beach. Attendees had the option to explore over 250 California and international wines, craft brews and ciders (and talk to the winemakers), visit lifestyle exhibitors and food trucks, dance to Gregg Young (Sat) and the Unofficial SLAM Band (Sun), and enjoy a much-needed day out. lawinefest.com
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KIDS
Duplicate Disneyland It’s got just about everything Disneyland has—Sleeping Beauty Castle, Splash Mountain, the Haunted Mansion—only much, much smaller. Architect David Sheegog, who grew up within walking distance from the real Magic Kingdom, spent the last 20 years re-creating the park in miniature in his own backyard. Castle Peak and Thunder Railroad is free, provided you’re able to snag a hard-to-get reservation. Only a handful of open houses are held in the spring and fall, so don’t dawdle. Anaheim Hills. cptrr.com. P H O T O G R A P H E D BY S TA R F O R E M A N
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Counterculture Comic Store
• At BLACK STAR COLLECTIBLES, super-
heroes come in all shades. Owners Feon Cooper, left, and Kareem Burton created this gem of a comic book and toy store to promote representation and inclusion, so it’s no surprise that customers are greeted at the door by a largerthan-life Black Panther statue. There are shelves and shelves of unique offerings, everything from Harriet Tubman: Demon Slayer comics to Black Heroes Matter tees. SouthBay Pavilion Mall, 20700 S. Avalon Blvd., Carson, blackstarcollectibles.com.
Place to Find a 1963 Mickey Mantle Card
friendly firefights. This place tends to attract novice players, so you won’t be bothered by camo-clad adults taking the game too seriously. On the contrary, it’s designed to be kid-friendly; there’s child-size equipment, referees, and special programs for children ages seven and up. 34481 Ridge Route Rd., Castaic, warpedpaintballpark.com.
Tees for Tots, Tweens, Teens, and Queens
• You know a kids’ store
can rock a tee when petite A-list actresses drop in to buy some for themselves. At SUNSET KIDS, every inch of Jonathan West’s 1,100-square-foot space is stacked with little T-shirts. They
• Baseball-card collect-
ing is making a comeback. So if your little one—or your sports-nut spouse —is looking to get back in the game, try BURBANK SPORTSCARDS. Open since 1987, it has one of the largest catalogs around, with more than 43 million cards, from Kobe to Koufax, as well as unopened boxes starting at just $1. “We buy more cards than anyone in the business,” says owner Rob Veres, “so our inventory stays fresh.”
DJ L A N C E R O C K : J B L AC R O I X / W I R E I M AG E
1610 W. Burbank Blvd., Burbank, burbankcards.com.
Spot to Get Splattered
• The fields at WARPED PAINTBALL PARK near
Castaic Lake stretch for 40 fun-filled acres, so there’s plenty of room for P H O T O G R A P H E D BY S TA R F O R E M A N
EXPERT PICK
Toy Shop FUNKO
6201 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, funko.com
> “Funko is so nuts. You can make your own Funko dolls. Watching little kids and families being creative is so exciting. I felt the magic in there. They have a Harry Potter section, a Star Wars section, a Saturday-morning cartoon section with a giant Crunch Berries Beast. It’s like Six Flags. I was blown away.” —DJ LANCE ROCK, STAR OF YO GABBA GABBA! AND KNOTT’S BERRY FARM’S LET’S PLAY! AND EVERYBODY DANCE!
include everything from rocker tees to Californiainspired tees to adult styles shrunk down. Look for brands like Kenzo, California Vintage, and Spiritual Gangster. 8671 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310-659-4411.
Toy Universe
• FRANK & SON
COLLECTIBLE SHOW, a Costco-size toy mall in City of Industry, has more than 200 dealers hawking new and used action figures, skateboards, and infinite varieties of Funko Pops. There’s even a tiny café. Yes, it’s obviously easier to buy toys online, but then how would you ever stumble across that Yoda-shaped backpack your kids never knew they wanted and now must have or their lives will be ruined forever? (For
strictly vintage toys, try I & S Toys and Collectibles in Echo Park.) 17835 Gale Ave., City of Industry, frankandsonshow.net.
Train Shop
• When the producers of
Young Sheldon went looking for a toy-train expert to build a set for the show, they turned to TRAIN SHACK owner Gary Keck. Keck, who’s been in the biz since 1985, sells new and used models, designs custom layouts (say, for under your Christmas tree), and offers repair services too.
1030 N. Hollywood Way, Burbank, trainshack.com. Contributors: Laurenz Busch, Susan Campos, Lenora Claire, Heidi Siegmund Cuda, A. J. Daulerio, Sean Fitz-Gerald, Sarah Fones, Star Foreman, Merle Ginsberg, Sandi Hemmerlein, Josh Lurie, Eric Mercado, Julius Miller, Chris Nichols, Jordan Riefe, Michael Slenske, Jeptha Storm, Benjamin Svetkey. L A M AG . C O M 6 5
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INDEX
Shop Play
Bespoke Shoes PAGE 44
PAGE 46
Bookstore, Indie Alternative Art Space PAGE 38
Brewpub PAGE 38
Outdoor Cinema PAGE 40
Place to Pop the Question PAGE 40
Comedy Club PAGE 38
Flower-Picking PAGE 38
Gaming PAGE 38
Place to Take a Hike PAGE 42
Place to Watch Cher Eat Sushi PAGE 42
Garden Stroll PAGE 38
Punk Scene PAGE 42
Gay Bar PAGE 38
Sack Lunch PAGE 42
Goth Escape PAGE 43
Late-Night Cocktail PAGE 40
Spot for a Selfie
PAGE 44
Quinceaňera Dresses PAGE 46
Bridal Gowns PAGE 44
Record Store
Dating-Profile Pic
PAGE 46
PAGE 50
DroughtResistant Plants
Scents
Croissants, Italian-Style
PAGE 46
Emergency Wine Delivery
Secondhand Clothing
PAGE 44
PAGE 48
Florist
Surf Shop
PAGE 44
PAGE 48
PAGE 40
Nightclub
Vintage Jeans
Hispanic Cold Brew
PAGE 46
PAGE 48
Men’s Store
Wigs
Kitschy Italian Deli
Pets
Health & Beauty Beauty Supplies PAGE 58
Mani-Pedi (Without Leaving Home) PAGE 58
Keratin Hair Treatment PAGE 58
Place to Sober Up PAGE 58
Lash Lift PAGE 58
Men’s Hair PAGE 59
Luxe Spa PAGE 58
Women’s ’Do PAGE 58
Big Birds
Pet Hotel
Cat House
Pet Rescue
PAGE 60
PAGE 60
Couture PAGE 60
Place to Have a Cow PAGE 54
Smash Burger PAGE 54
S’mores PAGE 54
PAGE 50
Taco Sampler PAGE 54
PAGE 52
Tasting Menu
Korean Dish Not in K-Town
PAGE 54
Vegan Ice Cream
PAGE 52
PAGE 54
Margarita and Mezcal PAGE 52
PAGE 60
Kids
PAGE 60
Treats PAGE 60
Dog Beach
Counterculture Comic Store
PAGE 60
PAGE 65
Tees for Tots, Tweens, Teens, and Queens PAGE 65
Repairs & Services Alterations PAGE 62
Men’s Tailor PAGE 62
Cameras
Outdated Tech
Jewelry
Shoes and Bags
PAGE 62
PAGE 62
6 6 L A M AG . C O M
PAGE 50
PAGE 50
Hats
PAGE 42
Place to Eat
Hangover Cure
PAGE 48
PAGE 40
PAGE 52
PAGE 50
Tackle Store
Zip Lines for Grown-Ups
Pizza Sandwich
Eggroll, Squared
PAGE 46
PAGE 48
PAGE 52
PAGE 50
Furnishings
PAGE 48
PAGE 52
Pasta
Cinnamon Bun with an L.A. Twist
PAGE 46
PAGE 44
Micro Market
PAGE 50
Retro Tees
PAGE 42
New Museum
Chili Cheese Fries Upgrade
PAGE 49
PAGE 42
VR Gaming
Eat
Queer-Owned Dispensary
PAGE 62
PAGE 62
Duplicate Disneyland PAGE 64
Place to Snag a 1963 Mickey Mantle Card PAGE 65
Spot to Get Splattered PAGE 65
Toy Shop PAGE 65
Toy Universe PAGE 65
Train Shop PAGE 65
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NewsletterFullPage_2019.indd 2
3/5/19 5:01 PM
Politics
BY JA K E F L A NAG I N
There Goes the Gayborhood! WEST HOLLY WOOD HAS LONG BILLED ITSELF AS THE QUEEREST PL ACE ON EARTH. BUT AS THE CIT Y BECOMES YOUNGER, STR AIGHTER, AND WOKER, ITS GAY FOUNDING FATHERS ARE STARTING TO FEEL LEFT OUT
68 L A M AG.C OM
PLU MMER PA R K IN THE
summertime is an urban idyll. The happy shrieks of children frolicking in its playground. The pop of tennis balls being swatted around its immaculately maintained courts. The murmurs of old men huddled around chess tables. ¶ You would never guess that this oh-so-peaceful four-acre patch of green wedged between Santa Monica Boulevard I L LUS T R AT E D B Y C H R I S MOR R I S
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Reach out to us today to schedule a complimentary needs assessment, and we’ll explore how to get you started on your new digital marketing journey. Contact Carly Allen, Director of Sales at callen@lamag.com
YOUNG BLOODS
and Fountain Avenue is on the front lines of an increasingly bitter battle for the heart and soul of West Hollywood. The details of the argument over the park, which have to do with the installation of gender-neutral bathrooms, aren’t really important. Suffice to say that the dispute is the latest skirmish in a larger civil war over everything from policing to public transport to economic policy. On one side is the city’s old guard leadership—the
now-sixtysomething gay men who founded WeHo in the 1980s, steered it through the AIDS crisis in the 1990s, and built the tiny city into one of the most famous and prosperous gay communities in the world. On the other is an energized new guard of activists and local politicians who have a starkly different vision for the city. Younger, woker, and sexually and ethnically more diverse, they’re determined to remake the city in their own image.
The war in West Hollywood is a microcosm of the schism that’s afflicting Democratic politics in general these days—pitting the millennial left’s feverish demands for sweeping change against the incrementalism favored by boomers. It’s A.O.C. versus Uncle Joe, played out in a 1.9-square-mile plot of land in Los Angeles County. When the city’s 35,000 residents vote in the midterms next November, they will set the course for WeHo in the next decade. But the election will also be a referendum on the whole idea of a gay city. Earlier gay neighborhoods were havens from violence and oppression. But as social and legal obstacles toward homosexuality declined, gay neighborhoods have shrunk as well. Strongholds like New York’s Chelsea and the Castro in San Francisco have seen an exodus of gay residents and influx of upwardly mobile straight couples and tech-savvy millennials.
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ER I C K S O N : A M Y S U S S M A N /G E T T Y I M AG E S; BY ER S: B R A N D O N WI L L I A M S/G E T T Y I M AG E S
Far left: John Erickson, 37, and Lindsey Horvath, 38, replaced two of WeHo’s most senior city council members. Left: Chelsea Byers, 32, is vying for a seat held by a retiring gay, male councilman.
WeHo’s LGBTQ population shrank from 39 percent in 2013 to 33 percent in 2019. Younger gays and lesbians are still moving to WeHo, but the recent queer émigrés tend to align politically with fellow millennials and zoomers than with the battle-scarred veterans who built the place. But while WeHo’s woke set seems ascendant, the oldtimers are not going down without a fight. “These kids are constantly railing against gentrification,” fumes a veteran WeHo businessman. “But they have no problem stealing West Hollywood from the gays.”
Nevertheless, 2020’s election was a wake-up call for the gay boomers on the council. In fact, it was nothing short of a regime change. Shyne, an attorney and civil rights activist, and Erickson, a former mayoral aide turned communications director for Planned Parenthood, campaigned on progressive platforms backed by labor unions and racial-justice advocates. They rode into office on a change wave and quickly got to work alongside another millennial council member, Lindsey
B Here
Photo by Florence Montmare.
“WEST HOLLYWOOD is so important to so many young people,” says Chelsea Byers. The 32-year-old social impact consultant is mounting a maiden run for a seat on the West Hollywood City Council in 2022. Byers is seated at a WeHo café, surrounded by the young people she’s talking about—fresh-faced millennials reading Ibram Kendi, earnest zoomers in fashionable sneakers and eyewear tapping away at their laptops. “West Hollywood is a leader in terms of inclusivity,” she says. “We’re a feminist city. We’re a pro-choice city. We’re a sanctuary city.” In 2020, an especially contentious election seismically reshaped the oncecollegial WeHo council and significantly brought down the average age of its membership. Longtime councilmen John Heilman, 63, and John Duran, 61, both lost their seats to a pair of political upstarts—Sepi Shyne, 43, and John Erickson, 37. Heilman had held a seat on the council since WeHo’s incorporation in 1984 and served several terms as mayor. Duran, a WeHo political legend, lost his seat after a #MeToo scandal. Heilman and Duran in many ways are avatars of the city’s old guard—gay, white, cisgender males, financially comfortable and established in their careers. They and their peers created West Hollywood at a time when gay rights were still largely theoretical, and they helped build the city into a safe zone that drew thousands of gays from around the world—all of which has informed their own more pragmatic, business-friendly politics. “When we started the city of West Hollywood, some people said a city built on rent control and populated by gays and lesbians, seniors, and
immigrants would never survive,” Heilman has said. “These critics said businesses would not want to locate in our city and eventually we would be bankrupt. We proved those naysayers wrong.” Keith Kaplan, 62, a gay resident of the city since before 1984 and a former chair of the West Hollywood Chamber of Commerce, offers a similar sentiment. “West Hollywood,” he says, “is where we activated, where we motivated, where we marched.”
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Horvath, 38, who’d been appointed to the council in 2015. The three are collectively referred to by West Hollywood insiders as “S.H.E.,” an acronym for their surnames, and make up the majority of the five-member council, with Mayor Lauren Meister, 62, and Councilman John D’Amico, 59, the last boomers still standing. “My governing principles are strongly influenced by the founding principles of our city,” Shyne insists, “which centered on protecting marginalized folks and valuing diversity, inclusion, and equity.” Still, the S.H.E. camp is acutely critical of capitalism, corporate America, and the criminal-justice system as it currently operates. And they believe the boomers they’re attempting to supplant are too attached to the prosperous status quo. The boomers, on the other hand, think the S.H.E.s are, at best, pie-in-the-sky dreamers who take for granted the struggles of the past and don’t understand how the world really works. WEHOville, a popular local blog founded by former New York Times reporter Henry Scott, was recently snapped up by Larry Block, a veteran WeHo businessman whose eponymous Santa Monica Boulevard boutique has become the Bloomingdale’s of Boystown. Under Block’s aegis, the blog has been transformed into the Pravda of WeHo’s old guard, full of bile and gossip about the interlopers. Nick Rimedio, 41, is general manager of the Kimpton La Peer Hotel, and the current chair of the chamber of commerce. Like Kaplan, Heilman, and Duran, he counts himself among the city’s socially liberal, fiscally moderate proponents of the status quo, and views S.H.E. as unmoored from reality, bringing the city to “the brink of something really dangerous.” Case in point for Rimedio and the chamber: last September, the city council voted to approve the highest minimum wage for hotel workers in the country—$17.64 an hour— which has stoked fears among older West Hollywooders who envision a city emptied of small businesses and transformed into a mirror of its neighbor, Beverly Hills. “If costs for businesses keep going up,” says Rimedio, “the only people who are going to be able to afford to come will be the very rich.”
Not all the boomers in West Hollywood are quite so agitated by the young upstarts. Councilman D’Amico even joined his new millennial cohorts in voting for the boost in minimum wage for hotel workers. “Raising it to the highest in the country is using our small shoe that we know leaves an enormous footprint,” he says. Then again, D’Amico has decided not to run for another term in 2022. In fact, it’s his seat that Byers and other progressives are running to fill. Another sticking point has centered on West Hollywood’s relationship with the L.A. County Sheriff ’s Department. Lacking its own police force, the city relies on the department for its policing needs, something that the new guard finds intolerable. Nika Soon-Shiong, the 25-year-old daughter of Los Angeles Times owner Patrick Soon-Shiong, serves on the city’s Public Safety Commission (she was appointed by Horvath) and has pushed to cut the budget for West Hollywood’s sheriff ’s station. “When the complete picture of crime data and L.A.S.D. costs is laid out, it’s difficult to see how contract cities benefit from the L.A.S.D.’s monopoly over public safety narratives and budgets,” Soon-Shiong tweeted in April. Soon-Shiong’s positioning prompted sharp criticism from pro-police elements. In an op-ed for WEHOville, George Nickle, captain of the Eastside Neighborhood Watch Group, who has lived in West Hollywood for 17 years, trashed her proposal to cut ten deputies from the
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Opposite, from left: Former councilmen and WeHo founding fathers John Duran, 61, and John Heilman, 63, were defeated in 2020 by candidates including 45-year-old Sepi Shyne (below, with wife Ashley Shyne), the council’s first woman of color.
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West Hollywood station, dubbing Soon-Shiong the “WeHo Ivanka.” In response, Horvath, who shares SoonShiong’s view of law enforcement, has characterized criticism of her as “rooted in racism, sexism, and othering of people in the community who had a different point of view.” Despite the furious backlash, in June the council voted 3-2 to reduce the sheriff ’s force by four deputies while adding 30 unarmed, bikeriding “security ambassadors” who can’t make arrests. Given that WeHo’s crime rate more than doubled over the past year—including attempted rapes, armed robberies, and a rash of pickpocketing at nightclubs—the vote seemed counterintuitive. Led by S.H.E. council members Shyne and Horvath, and outgoing member D’Amico, the defunding measure was opposed by Erickson and Meister, who vowed not to vote for a new city budget if funding for the L.A.S.D. is cut. “You can’t expect us to have a public safety team where most of the people aren’t armed in order to defend our citizens,” Meister told WEHOville after the vote. THE BATTLE unfolding in West Hollywood right now isn’t really about gay versus straight, although many in the younger guard are more diverse in their sexual and gender orientations. No, what a lot of this seems to be about is demographics. Erickson notes that nearly 50 percent of West Hollywood residents are now under 40, but prior to the 2020
election, only one member of the city council—Hor vath—was younger than that. Shyne’s election marked the fi rst time a woman of color was seated, despite nearly 30 percent of the city’s population identifying as nonwhite and 45 percent identifying as female. From Erickson’s point of view, all he and his cohorts want to do is open WeHo’s gates to a wider range of marginalized communities than just gay men. “I don’t think West Hollywood is moving away from its past as a haven community for gay men,” he says. “What West Hollywood is doing is working to ensure that people from all walks of life know they have a home and a community here.” The old guard, though, aren’t crazy about giving up control of the haven they created. They view the younger generation elbowing for power on the city council as naive and Pollyannaish. Take Plummer Park. True, there have been problems with prostitutes and drug dealers flocking the park at night, but it remains a cherished urban sanctuary and a point of pride for a tiny metropolis literally built on pride. So in February, when the city council proposed redesigning the park’s bathrooms as gender-neutral with ceiling-to-floor doors that locked from the inside, it’s not surprising that all hell broke loose. “I’m not quite sure what the point is,” complained former city council member Steve Martin at a Public Safety Commission meeting, “whether we’re trying to open up a bordello or we’re trying to create some kind of sex club. But this does not make any sense for Plummer Park.” Of course, nobody on the council had any intention of opening a bordello. But in the end, the council passed the proposal, infuriating older West Hollywooders, who continue to worry that their beloved mecca is slipping away from them, while the city’s newer residents cheered the decision as proof of their own inclusiveness. “I recognize that I’ve benefited from the generations who’ve come before me,” says Byers, who identifies as queer, before leaving the café with those millennial voters she’ll need in November. “I am so grateful I got to move out of Arizona and find a place like West Hollywood where I could live the life I envisioned for myself.”
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A VIEW FROM L . A . ’ S B I L L B O A R D S A R E N ’ T G E T T I N G A N Y S M A L L E R —T H E Y J U S T S E E M T H AT
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WAY. R E V I S I T I N G T H E G O L D E N AG E O F I N YO U R FAC E • BY S T E V E G A R B A R I N O
THE LATE HUGH HEFNER PAID for the “Y,” Alice Cooper sprang for an “O,” and Gene Autry picked up the tab for an “L.” This was in 1978, when the Playboy magazine founder held a fundraiser at his Holmby Hills mansion to repair the Hollywood sign (at $27,777 per letter), which was collapsing down the side of Mount Lee. Originally, the sign read “Hollywoodland”—erected in 1923 as a three-dimensional, bulb-lit advertisement for a tract-house subdivision by the same name—and was abbreviated, in 1949, to simply “Hollywood.” But by any other name, it eventually became the most famous billboard in history and an iconic, definitional addition to the Los Angeles skyline: the Eiffel Tower of L.A. As it happens, though, billboards had been around long before the Hollywood sign. In fact, they were a big, splashy part of this city’s drivescape even before residents were driving. As far back as the 1880s, hand-painted graphics promoting food products, hotels, and political candidates were plastered all over L.A., especially in Skid Row. Stroll through that area today, and you can spot faded promotions on some older buildings’ walls—“ghost signs,” they’re called—which still shine 8 8 L A M AG . C O M
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through. The lead paint of olden days never seems to entirely fade away, no many how many times it’s painted over. In the 1920s, as the automotive business started picking up speed, L.A’.s billboard business really began to boom, with some of the signs growing to outlandish proportions. Advertisements for silent-film releases sometimes stretched as long as 75 feet. Most were positioned at can’t-miss windshield level, as more and more Angelenos started tooling around backwater roads—streets with names like Fairfax, Wilshire, and Sunset—in their shiny, new horseless buggies. By the 1930s, billboard companies like Foster & Kleiser were operating airport-size factories and employing hundreds of artists to work on hand-painted signs. But the billboard’s twentiethcentury heyday had to be the ’70s and ’80s, when music labels employed them to promote concerts and albums, often in new and inventive ways, designing signage with towering 9 0 L A M AG . C O M
cutouts, moving parts, and other eyepopping gimmicks. A local rock station actually constructed a treehouse-like home inside one of its billboards and held a contest to see how long listeners could last living inside it. One contestant made it a whole two months amid the fumes and honks. “We all worried the person would get drunk up there and fall off,” says 81-year-old Brian Kennedy, who, with his 79-year-old brother, Drake, coowned Regency Outdoor Advertising, one of the premiere billboard companies in L.A. Regency’s been leasing primo locations since the 1970s, including the space in front of the
Chateau Marmont where, for years, a giant Marlboro Man puffed clouds of steam into the hotel’s boulevardfacing suites. It was their spot on Sunset, too, where Maker’s Mark once erected a life-size oil rig that appeared to be dispensing bourbon into a giant bottle. “It was far more creative than people give it credit for,” notes Kennedy of that golden era of outdoor advertising. “Some billboards were really sensational.” Around that same time, in the 1980s, a certain blond bombshell in a Barbie-pink Corvette began popping up on L.A.’s billboards. Decades before the rise of the internet influencers,
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P I E R C E : C L E A R C H A N N E L O U T D O O R ; M AY CO : G A RY L E O N A R D/CO R B I S V I A G E T T Y I M AG E S
Angelyne was pioneering the art of self-promotion by using roadside signage to turn herself into a virtual celebrity. She’s now in her seventies, and her billboards are still fixtures around Hollywood. Although Sunset is where most of the tentpole billboards have tended to land—as close to a city center as L.A. has—there’s always been some action in other parts of town. Farther south, on Wilshire, you can find at least a few of those eye-catching (and sometimes head-scratching) lawyer billboards (“We didn’t meet by accident,” announces one for the Pirnia Law Group) that first started popping up in the 1980s, after a Supreme Court decision finally allowed attorneys to advertise themselves. In the ’90s and aughts, high fashion began to dominate the billboard business, especially back on Sunset, with 20-foot-tall supermodels slinking around the skyline in Dolce & Gabbana and Gucci. Perfumes were big back then, too, with an enormous cutout of Elizabeth Taylor’s face
(hawking her Passion scent) competing for motorists’ attention with colossal bottles of Chanel and Jean Paul Gaultier perfumes. The state of California got involved in the billboard biz around then as well, all but bullying the Marlboro Man with a series of anti-smoking public service ads, including one along Sunset that featured an enormous coffin that periodically opened and closed. (The bullying, by the way, worked; the Marlboro Man was taken down in 1999.) Of course, like every business, the billboard industry took a major hit during the pandemic, with sales initially dropping about 50 percent for Regency and its competition—businesses like Lamar, Outfront, and Clear Channel. Sales have picked up again, but, still, the billboard game isn’t what it used to be, even on Sunset Boulevard. These days, Netflix has an Orwellian grip on the Strip, thanks to a $129 million deal that Drake Kennedy signed, against his elder
brother’s wishes, with the streamer in 2018, giving Netflix a 35-billboard near-monopoly on that most precious stretch of advertising territory. Last February, Brian Kennedy bought out Drake to acquire 100 percent of the company, but the rift between the two over the Netflix deal apparently hasn’t entirely healed. “He sold the Strip,” Brian notes dejectedly. Plenty of companies still peddle their wares with outdoor signage. HBO, Disney, CBS, Amazon, Hyundai, Delta Air Lines, and F/X are just a few of the businesses on Regency’s client list at the moment. But the era of the billboard as an art form seems, sadly, to have passed. Today, it’s all about newfangled electronic signage—barely visible during the day, blindingly oppressive at night—that comes dangerously close to turning L.A. into a Las Vegas-like hellscape. The billboards in Los Angeles haven’t actually become smaller in recent years, yet somehow it feels that way. If only the Marlboro Man would take up smoking again. L A M AG . C O M 9 1
9 2 L A M AG . C O M
BYRON ALLEN BUILT A MEDIA EMPIRE WORTH BILLIONS. NOW THE FORMER STAND-UP IS EYEING POLITICS, THE NFL, AND MAKING BLACK OWNERSHIP THE NEW NORM BY STEVE APPLEFORD PHOTOGRAPHED BY ART STREIBER
L A M AG . C O M 9 3
Byron Allen is already torn. The night is young, the party just beginning
9 4 L A M AG . C O M
Curtis Symonds, CEO and cofounder of HBCUGo.TV, a platform created to promote historically Black colleges and universities that was absorbed by Allen’s company last year, tells me, “People looked at Byron when he first got in the business, saying, ‘He’s a comedian, not a businessman.’ Now he’s showing the world, ‘I’m not going to do a show. I’m gonna own the show.’ That’s the thing that I admire most about him: he delivers.” Chris Tucker, the evening’s emcee, flew to the event on the Entertainment Studios Gulfstream G550. “This guy started out like me, a comedian,” Tucker informs the party once he’s onstage. “And now I don’t know how many buildings he’s got. He never tells me how much money he’s got. Never. I guess he don’t want me to borrow none of it.” From that position of power and influence, Allen has filed a series of multibillion-dollar racial discrimination lawsuits—including a 2015 case against Comcast for not carrying Allen-owned stations and networks. That case made it to the U.S. Supreme Court before being settled out of court to Allen’s satisfaction. His latest is a $10 billion discrimination lawsuit against McDonald’s for racial stereotyping and refusing to buy what he considers a fair share of advertising from F U N N Y B U S I N E S S Allen, right, joined Jimmie Walker’s writing staff—
including David Letterman, center—as a 14-year-old high school student.
I N STAG R A M .CO M / R E A L BY R O N A L L E N
to bounce to remixed classic funk and soul. In a shiny black tux and shaved head, the charismatic 61-year-old is in Washington, D.C., on the edge of the night’s red carpet (beige, in this case), intoning about “Black excellence” and “Black ownership” to the press scrum assembled before him. But every minute or so, another esteemed guest from media, entertainment, or politics arrives, and Allen, the host of this shindig, excuses himself and beelines for a fist bump and photo op with Pete Buttigieg, President Biden’s domestic policy advisor Susan Rice, congresswoman Ilhan Omar . . . . It’s the night of the White House Correspondents’ Dinner, the annual indulgence where D.C. politicians and the journalists who cover them drop all pretext of objectivity and openly revel in their codependence. For Allen, hosting this after-party at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of African American History and Culture is a typically shrewd move in his relentless empire-building. He’s been a recognizable face for decades, first as a young comic and more recently as an increasingly prominent media tycoon. Allen owns the Weather Channel, local TV stations, multiple 24-hour cable channels and streaming networks, and is the producer and distributor of more than 60 syndicated TV shows. Entertainment Studios, the Century City-based company he founded to produce his content, is worth billions. Allen still doesn’t have the profile of a Michael Bloomberg or a Donald Newhouse, but people are finally paying attention. “I’m a 61-year-old overnight sensation,” he says with a laugh. “People just didn’t notice.” Now here he is in Washington to make a play for his brands but also a point. The after-party was ostensibly to raise awareness for TheGrio, the news and culture website and digital TV channel aimed at Black audiences that Allen acquired in 2016. (Tonight’s guest of honor is longtime White House correspondent April Ryan, poached by Allen from American Urban Radio Networks to lead TheGrio’s Washington coverage.) But the party is also a statement of purpose and show of force by Allen on behalf of Black entrepreneurs in the nation’s ultimate power center. “Until we have a real seat at the table—with ownership, equity, access to a real education, economic inclusion, equal justice, environmental protection—we can’t achieve one America,” he tells me as his party rages around him. “You can’t achieve one America unless you come to Washington, D.C., and you get politicians to understand: ‘You are nothing more than temporary hired help.’”
L A R RY F R E N C H /G E T T Y I M AG E S FO R E N T E R TA I N M E N T ST U D I O S
M R . A L L E N G O E S TO WA S H I N G TO N On the steps of the Supreme Court in April.
Black-owned media. “I’m not a litigious person,” he insists. “If If Allen’s comedy career had gone the way I’m filing a lawsuit, it’s because I know we’re right.” of his contemporary Eddie Murphy’s, he likely would never With no intention of running for office himself, Allen have become the mogul he is today, buying up TV stations and has been a frequent contributor to Democratic candidates vying for ownership of an NFL franchise. After four decades and advocacy groups across the country but doesn’t pull his of triumphs and setbacks, Allen now speaks confidently of his punches regardless of who is in the Oval Office. In 2015, he goal to own the biggest media company in the world. Four faced blowback for calling the nation’s years ago, he paid $310 million in cash first Black commander in chief “a white for the Weather Channel, which he likes president in blackface,” on camera to to point out is “America’s most trusted TMZ, no less, after Obama characterized news brand.” (The weather has no agenda, “WE GOT looters in Baltimore as “thugs.” of course.) And he recently launched the A BLACK “I didn’t criticize Obama until the secWeather Channel en Español, the first PRESIDENT, ond term. But I said to Black America, 24-hour, Spanish-language weather EIGHT YEARS, you’re not being strategic. You need to network. “Buying the Weather Channel AND WENT have an ask of Obama. We got a Black obviously caught people’s attention,” Allen BACKWARDS. president, beautiful photos, eight years, says. “It’s the very first time an African AFTER OBAMA and went backwards,” Allen says, not American has owned a mainstream news LEFT, I WAS backing down. “Black people were mad. operation in this country.” LIKE, ‘OK, BLACK Then after he left, I was like, ‘OK, Black With close to 2,000 employees, PEOPLE, WHAT people, what did you get?’” Entertainment Studios is a family-run DID YOU GET?’” Allen mentions being especially moved company in a world of corporate fiefdoms. by the Smithsonian’s solemn exhibit for Allen remains 100 percent owner and sees Emmett Till, the 14-year-old Black boy only a glide path to his ambitions for conmurdered in Mississippi after whistling tinued growth. There are contradictions at a white woman in the summer of 1955. between Allen’s social agenda and his What caught Allen’s attention was in a glass case: an article in businesses, as when he invested his own cash to join Sinclair Jet magazine—the first to publish the shocking photo of Till’s Broadcasting’s $9.6 billion purchase of 21 Fox regional sports beaten, mutilated face. It was essential fuel for an acceleratnetworks and Fox College Sports, and then told Bloomberg ing Civil Rights movement in America. “That’s Black-owned News, “I’m a big fan of Rupert Murdoch.” He wasn’t talkmedia—authentic, unfiltered,” Allen says. “We have to bring ing about politics but the Australian’s media domination in the truth.” sports, which he called “some of Rupert’s best work.” L A M AG . C O M 9 5
The media landscape is littered with high-profile flameouts of cash and hype, like the recent failure of Ozy Media, led by another likeable on-camera entrepreneur, Carlos Watson. Even Allen’s friend, the hugely successful entertainment executive Jeffrey Katzenberg, saw his $1.7 billion Quibi streaming platform disintegrate shortly after takeoff. Allen reached his fortune and position less dramatically, though he insists he’s not risk-averse. “I do roll the dice,” he says. But his rise over the last two decades wasn’t based on gambling everything on a single monumental deal. His empire was built piecemeal with his customers and partners. His three rules of success start with having personal relationships with stations and advertisers. “Number 2, don’t run out of money,” he says, then adds with a laugh, “and, number 3, don’t break rules 1 and 2.” Allen’s rise was steady and largely unnoticed by anyone not in business with him. That’s especially ironic, since he is the most hands-on and public of media moguls, his company’s best and most charismatic spokesman, and a frequent creator, writer, and on-camera host of its content. His ease at being in the spotlight is rooted in years of stand-up comedy and hosting gigs going back to his teens, when he got big laughs from a sultry Barry White impression at the Fairfax High School talent show and introduced an unknown garage band with future members of the Red Hot Chili Peppers. Allen is still an entertainer at his core, his creative and business selves inseparable, and he credits his training as an observational comic for his ability to recognize opportunity and unorthodox solutions. “As a comedian, you see things differently,” he explains. “You look for that nuance—for what’s missing. You’re filling that gap as a comedian, and you’re filling that gap as an entrepreneur. They’re very closely related. As a comedian, you understand human behavior innately.” He frequently tells the story of paying $1 for a courtroom 9 6 L A M AG . C O M
set that 20th Century Fox planned to throw away. Instead, the studio accepted his offer to save the estimated $100,000 it would have cost to dismantle it. Allen used the set on his first court TV show, America’s Court with Judge Ross—now one of six first-run syndicated courtroom reality shows that he repurposes on his 24-hour cable network Justice Central. “My mind is very numerical. I love business. Judge Judy is a big business—it’s $100 million a year,” Allen says. “How do we get into the court business?” Our first and longest talk is over Zoom, a medium he rarely used before the pandemic but has since become his preferred means of communication. Dressed in a white Adidas pullover, he leans into the conversation for nearly two hours and rarely checks his cell. Behind him are framed pictures of his wife, TV producer Jennifer Lucas, and their children, Chloe, 13, Olivia, 12, and Lucas, 9, and a large photograph of a watery tropical paradise upon which is reflected a flickering image of Wolf Blitzer on CNN. Allen stays plugged in. His days begin early, with his first calls to the East Coast at 5 a.m. local time, followed by nearly back-to-back calls until 8 p.m. “I used to be that comic that didn’t go to bed until six in the morning,” Allen says. “I had to reinvent myself.” Before COVID-19, he might have three meetings a day but discovered a new level of efficiency during the pandemic, saving millions on staff travel expenses. “It took a physical toll on me because I never worked so hard in my life,” he says with no discernable regret. Two days after our call, news hits that Allen was leading a group in a bid for the Denver Broncos. The mogul was vying to become the first Black member of America’s most exclusive club: NFL owners. For years, Donald Trump craved entrée into that crowd, with a failed bid for the Buffalo Bills in 2014; becoming president was easier. While Allen’s play for the
L A R RY F R E N C H /G E T T Y I M AG E S FO R A L L E N M E D I A G R O U P / BY R O N A L L E N
P O W E R P L AY E R S Allen with Pete Buttigieg, U.S. domestic policy director Susan Rice, and journalist April Ryan.
Gordy’s house,’ ” Allen recalls. Seeing the fabulous digs of the Black founder and owner of Motown Records left a mark. “It changed my perspective.” Allen was six when he saw National Guard soldiers in the streets following the 1968 assassination of Martin Luther King Jr., as riots erupted across urban America. “I watched Detroit go up in flames,” he recalls. “Two or three months later, we went to L.A. for a two-week vacation and ended up staying.” Allen’s father remained in Detroit, and his parents eventually divorced. He and his mother settled in the Miracle Mile. (Among Allen’s childhood friends was the future food critic Jonathan Gold.) His mother went to school as a film and TV undergraduate at UCLA, got hired as a page at NBC Studios in Burbank, and worked her way up to publicist. She brought Allen with her most days. “I would sit and watch Johnny Carson do The Tonight Show, and then walk across the hall and watch Redd Foxx do Sanford and Son, then go across the hall to watch Freddie Prinze do Chico and the Man,” he says. One day, comic Gabe Kaplan, from Welcome Back, Kotter, was appearing on a Gladys Knight special at NBC, and Allen knocked on his dressing room door to ask for advice about breaking into comedy. Kaplan told him about the Comedy Store. In mid-June, Allen strolls into Entertainment His mother agreed to take him, at age 14, to the club. “He Studios’ production complex in Culver City in a dark blue had written a spec script for Sanford and Son, so he took some suit over a open-collared white shirt, smiling. He leased this of the material from there and put together his first stand-up 75,000-square-foot space, the former home of ALF and TV material,” says Folks. His first night onstage, Allen was spothitmaker Stephen J. Cannell, a decade ago. At one end of the ted by a writer for Jimmie Walker, who recruited the high warehouse is the Oval Office set where he shot 36 episodes school kid as a joke writer, working alongside then-unknowns of his Obama-era sitcom The First Family, steps away from like David Letterman and Jay Leno. Byron’s first check was the shiny, retro-mod game show set for Funny You Should for $25, and he immediately quit his paper route. Ask, one of Allen’s flagship shows, which resumed shooting “Since Byron was 14, we did kind of watch ourselves,” after two years of COVID-induced hiatus, during which cast remembers Leno, then in his mid-twenties. “But he was member and close friend Louie Anderson died of cancer. sharp. Comedically, he was everybody’s (“God bless Louie Anderson’s soul,” Allen equal. I’ve sort of had a fatherly thing murmurs.) from standing back and watching him Sitting beneath a ceiling crowded with become this mogul. It’s so hysterical. I’m cables and lights, Allen is in an upbeat ALLEN WAS really proud of him.” mood. “This is our sandbox,” he says At NBC, Allen learned how television proudly. In less than 24 hours, We the 14 WHEN HE shows are made, how writers, producPeople with Judge Lauren Lake goes into DEBUTED AT ers, and directors interact with network production—on a new modern courtTHE COMEDY executives, censors, marketing, and the room set design that was overseen by his STORE. DAYS audience. He knew Carson taped The mother, Carolyn Folks, one of the show’s LATER, HE Tonight Show at 5:30 p.m. and was in his executive producers. “This is a part of my WAS WORKING car rolling off the lot by 6:45. “I would DNA,” Allen says, gesturing at the soundON JIMMIE go sit at Johnny’s desk when that stustage. “It’s home for me, being in a studio, WALKER’S dio was empty,” Allen says. “I’d stand on creating, producing.” WRITING his spot and read his cue cards.” In May Byron Allen Folks was born in Detroit STAFF. 1979, Allen, then 18, became the youngat Henry Ford Hospital in 1961. His est comic to appear on The Tonight Show, mother was 17 at the time, and his father, delivering four minutes of jokes about Alvin Folks, a few years older. His paterlife at Fairfax High. (“My best friend is nal grandparents owned a roller rink in like half-Black, half-Jewish—Abdullah Steinberg. Buys Afro town, and other family members were blue-collar workers Sheen wholesale. Wears his yarmulke tilted to the side . . . .”) for Ford and Great Lakes Steel. He remembers riding with As he waited to go on, he wasn’t nervous in the least. He’d his mother, grandmother, and an uncle on road trips to the spent much of his childhood at the studio and was a veteran suburbs, “where all the rich white people lived.” They drove of the Comedy Store and the Improv, sharing the stage with past mansions owned by the Ford and Chrysler families the great comics of the 1970s. He knew he belonged on The and the Dodge brothers. “One day, they said, ‘This is Berry Broncos made it to the final round, the winning $4.65 billion bid, a record price for a U.S. sports team, went to Walmart heir Rob Walton and his family. With a personal wealth estimated at just under half a billion dollars, Allen wasn’t able to clinch a deal this time, but NFL team ownership is a long game, and it was a significant first step. “It sets him up to interact with überwealthy people who might be amenable to supporting a bid that he would lead,” says Marc Ganis, president of Sportscorp and a longtime financial adviser to multiple NFL teams. “The NFL is far more than just a sports league. An argument could be made that the NFL is the single most significant asset in popular culture today.” “Whether I become the first Black owner of an NFL team or it’s somebody else, it’s long overdue,” Allen says, adding that he’d earlier been approached by NFL commissioner Roger Goodell and New England Patriots owner Robert Kraft about buying a team. “It will serve as inspiration for a lot of folks in this country who deserve that—who need to not just see us play the game, but own the game.”
L A M AG . C O M 9 7
stations and split with them the revenues from Tonight Show but understood how much the moment matselling 30-second spots to advertisers. After a lot tered. “I knew, standing behind that curtain, what was going of rejection, 150 stations signed on. But ad sales to happen in the next five minutes after Johnny introduced were slow, and during a five-year period, his house me,” Allen recalls. “It was going to change the trajectory of my went in and out of foreclosure. When his phone life and my family’s life.” was turned off for nonpayment, Allen moved his The offers started coming almost immediately—Joan office to a nearby pay phone. Money was so tight, Rivers wanted him for a sitcom. Instead, he signed on as a he sometimes subsisted on meals provided at the host-correspondent for NBC’s Real People, a prehistoric verjunkets. Then the general manager of a station in sion of what would later become reality TV. Allen and a film Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, told him that sales reps crew were sent around the country to find examples of the from Paramount Television were making it known hilarious and heartwarming, the quirky and the profound, to anyone who would listen that Allen wasn’t a real meeting Americans far from New York or Los Angeles. “I was production company, just some guy making calls literally, in some cases, the first Black person they had ever in his underwear from a dining room table, and met,” Allen recalls. “I would go to some of these towns, and it Paramount was granted the time slot promised was segregated—like, really segregated.” to Entertainers. Real People was a hit, and it made Allen famous in a main“That was very painful,” Allen recalls. “I said, stream network context, where no sharp edges were allowed ‘Listen, they’re right. I am calling you from my dinduring the 8 p.m. family hour. “I quickly learned that it wasn’t ing room table. I am in my underwear. But here’s show business—it was business show. Once I juxtaposed where they’re wrong: tell the boys at Paramount those two words, it changed the trajectory of my career.” I’m never going to cancel it, and it’s going to be on After leaving the program, Allen costarred with Charles until the end of time.’” Durning in Case Closed, a TV movie in the mold of Beverly Allen eventually signed up a full roster of adverHills Cop. Swept up in the gold rush to syndicate late-night tisers, and the show thrived. Today, Entertainers talk shows after Arsenio Hall hit, he hosted The Byron Allen remains his longest-running show, though Allen Show from 1989 until it was cancelled in 1992. Throughout, is no longer host, with a revamped version—still he was on the road as a comic, opening big rooms for Lionel fueled by press junkets—that airs across the Richie, the Pointer Sisters, Kenny Rogers, Dolly Parton, country and every weekend in L.A. on KCAL 9. Gladys Knight, and Patti LaBelle. By most standards, his Another important leap for Allen’s company came career was going well, but he began to believe the constant when he secured six new high-definition channels touring was keeping him from the world of TV studios and from Verizon’s Fios TV service in 2009 and soon production—the landscape he wanted most. added more. The deal was made in connection “I probably stayed on the road too long,” Allen says. with his purchase of a variety of self-explanatory “You’re not in show business unless you’re in a studio.” dot-TV domain names: Cars. In 1993, he got off the road and T V, Pet s.T V, C omedy.T V, founded Entertainment Studios. While MyDestination.TV, ES.TV, and his mother handled the paperwork, he Recipe.TV. spent his days at the dining room table WHEN ALLEN’S “I’ve always said to the “smiling and dialing” hundreds of TV staworld, we will end up being the world’s tions around the country. His first show, PHONE WAS biggest media company,” Allen says. “The Entertainers with Byron Allen, was an TURNED OFF, reason why is because we are better posiingenious concept that combined big HE MOVED HIS tioned for the digital revolution than stars with exceptionally low overhead, as OFFICE TO A anybody.” He’s expanding his company’s Allen turned the movie industry’s weekly NEARBY PAY reach in other ways too. Entertainment assembly line of media junkets into his PHONE AND Studios is now in the business of buying own TV talk show. Then, as now, studios SUBSISTED ON and distributing feature films—includbrought their biggest actors to the Four MEALS PROing the favorably reviewed dramas Seasons and other L.A. hotels to talk up VIDED AT PRESS Hostiles and Chappaquiddick—and poptheir upcoming films with journalists. JUNKETS. corn thrillers like 47 Meters Down and Studio press departments often provided its sequel. the cameras, lights, and sound for fiveAllen has rarely strayed from the camminute encounters, placing the movie’s eras for long. On Comics Unleashed, he poster or logo prominently in the frame. is introduced in every episode with a different throwaway— Allen brazenly spliced together these short interviews, pad“The only man with a rotary cell phone!” But most of the ded them with studio-supplied movie clips and a pleasant attention is on the more than 650 comics who have passed soundtrack of jazzy R & B, and, voilà, produced a weekly through the show in a sort of finishing school—many makhour-long show with the biggest stars of the moment at viring their TV debuts—who are Black, white, Hispanic, Asian, tually no cost. transgender, young, old, who lean left or right. Allen offered the show for free to local and national TV 9 8 L A M AG . C O M
C R E AT I V E L I C E N S E Allen at Entertainment Studios in Culver City. “This is our sandbox,” he says.
Earlier this year, Allen attended a tribute to the late Bob Saget at the Comedy Store, reuniting with old friends in the space where his stand-up career began and his path to everything followed. The unexpected death of their beloved colleague brought out an all-star revue of onetime regulars at the club—Chris Rock, Jim Carrey, Jon Lovitz, Paul Rodriguez, and Mike Binder among them—along with Saget’s musician pals Jackson Browne and John Mayer. Saget’s widow, Kelly Rizzo, told her first jokes on the famous stage, the same one where the 14-year-old Allen had so impressed that he was launched into show business before he knew what had hit him. Allen took his place on the stage, hemmed in by the cohort of comedians who, with him, had changed the course of popular culture. Dressed in a blue sweatshirt and sneakers, he repeated a few of Saget’s famously filthy jokes but mostly shared memories of his old friend and colleague as the laughter and tears washed over him. “We both started as teenagers,” Allen told the audience in the packed club, which in those years was making its P H O T O G R A P H E D BY A RT S T R E I B E R
transition from Ciro’s, a faded supper club catering to the sentimental entertainment favored by the World War II generation, to the searing rock-and-roll comedy of boomers like Allen and Saget. “I met him in 1978, right here,” Allen continued. “And I watched him for 42 years. Truly great.” Earlier, Allen had confessed to me, “Once you’re a comedian, you’re always a comedian.” But that didn’t stop him from pulling off the road at the height of his fame, when he admitted to himself that he could succeed on terms that are now his gospel: Stop shoveling coal into someone else’s furnace. Own your material or others will own it and, by extension, own you. Allen veered into a life of media ownership for a reason—his own. He’s satisfied now to be funny at home, to tell a few jokes on his shows, and to advocate for a new generation of Black entertainers and entrepreneurs whom he hopes will build on the shoulders of his success. “I have buddies. They collect cars. They collect Ferraris. They collect Porsches,” Allen says. “I have buddies who can’t stop talking about and watching sports. But for me, it’s business. That’s my love. That’s my passion.” L A M AG . C O M 9 9
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L A M AG . C O M 1 0 1
Once upon a time in Hollywood, a windblown PARIS HILTON arrives.
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hen Santa Monica native Mark Hunter, then a 24-year-old assistant to Shepard Fairey, started snapping photos of revelers at Los Angeles clubs in the early aughts, he couldn’t have known he was seeding a trend that would transform popular culture. In L.A.’s post-9/11 malaise, there existed a primal desire among the young and beautiful to party like it was still 1999. When they gathered late at night—at Lex Deux and Teddy’s and Guy’s Bar and Hyde Lounge, their ranks swelled by putative stars like Paris Hilton, Nicole Richie, Mischa Barton, and Lauren Conrad—Hunter was there with his camera. When the photos—unsparing, luridly graphic (pinned pupils, sweated mascara, smeared blood)—posted on his website, the Cobrasnake, the world beat a path to his 1 0 2 L A M AG . C O M
URL. What Hunter had documented were the first stirrings of hipster culture and, with it, the dubious rise of uncredentialed “influencers” as arbiters of taste and style. Facebook, TMZ, and Twitter, launched in 2004, 2005, and 2006, respectively, followed, but it was Hunter who first captured the aesthetic that would define the face of social media for years to come. “Long before there was an Instagram feed to scroll through, people would refresh my site over and over,” Hunter writes in The Cobrasnake: Y2Ks Archive, his justpublished retrospective. “My pictures tell the story of a time when the world felt refreshed and remixed, when style and substance converged, and when youth culture dominated and demolished. People wanted me to take their picture because they wanted to be part of that story.” —MICHAEL WALKER
The Cobrasnake captures BECK during his mid-aughts comeback.
“WHEN I GRADUATED HIGH SCHOOL, MOST OF MY FRIENDS WENT OFF TO COLLEGE. I WENT TO THE TROUBADOUR.”
The late artist DASH SNOW—“Fallen angel, RIP”—striking sparks.
Life of the party KATY PERRY doubles as a one-woman canvas. L A M AG . C O M 1 0 3
JASON SCHWARTZMAN with prehistoric smartphone.
MISCHA BARTON at the height of her O.C. fame.
Rapper-designer and “newsboy-cap wearer” ANDRÉ 3000. 1 0 4 L A M AG . C O M
“BEFORE YOUTUBE AND INSTAGRAM, THE ONLY WAY TO GET FAMOUS WAS TO HAVE A PICTURE OF YOURSELF POSTED ON MY WEBSITE.”
GWEN STEFANI and No Doubt’s TONY KANAL in line for the loo.
Below, clockwise from top left: DITA VON TEESE fans herself; peanut-butter lover ROSIE HUNTINGTON-WHITELEY; when KANYE mingled with the masses; shades of LADY GAGA with boyfriend LÜC CARL; the Cobrasnake founder MARK HUNTER strikes a pose; TRAVIS BARKER and the late DJ AM; pre-YouTube JEFFREE STAR.
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If ever there was a car picnic scene, it’s at this openair spot overlooking Malibu Lagoon State Beach (and across from a SoulCycle, if we’re being honest). You can grab a great lobster roll (topped with uni or caviar if you’re feeling extra fancy), towers of raw seafood, great clam chowder, and a burger sprinkled with shio kombu (dried kelp) that shouldn’t be overlooked. 23359 Pacific Coast Hwy., 424-644-0131, or broadstreetoyster.com. Beer and wine.
❂ Cassia
SANTA MONICA » Southeast Asian $$$ Bryant Ng mines his Chinese Singaporean heritage, honors wife Kim’s Vietnamese background, and works in the wood-grilling technique he honed at Mozza at this grand Southeast Asian brasserie. Hunker down at a table on the patio—or treat yourself to some great takeout—to devour turmericmarinated ocean trout or chickpea curry with scallion clay-oven bread. Wherever and however you enjoy Ng’s cooking, you won’t be disappointed. 1314 7th St., 310-393-6699, or cassiala.com. Full bar.
✤❂ Cobi’s
SANTA MONICA » Southeast Asian $$$ Coming here is like visiting a perfectly artdirected beach house where everything—from the colors on the walls to the curries on the 10 6 L A M A G . C O M
THE BREAKDOWN WEST
EAST
Includes Beverly Hills, Brentwood, Century City, Culver City, Malibu, Marina del Rey, Mar Vista, Palms, Santa Monica, Venice, West L.A., Westwood
Includes Atwater Village, Eagle Rock, East L.A., Echo Park, Glendale, Los Feliz, Pasadena, San Gabriel Valley, Silver Lake
DOWNTOWN Includes Arts District, Bunker Hill, Chinatown, Historic Core, Little Tokyo, South Park
T H E VA L L E Y Includes Agoura Hills, Burbank, Calabasas, Encino, North Hollywood, Sherman Oaks, Studio City, Toluca Lake, Van Nuys
CENTRAL
SOUTH
Includes Beverly Grove, East Hollywood, Fairfax District, Hancock Park, Hollywood, Koreatown, West Hollywood
Includes Bell, Compton, Gardena, Hermosa Beach, Long Beach, Manhattan Beach, Torrance, Watts
✤ 2022 Best New Restaurant Winner ❂ Has Outdoor Seating $ $$ $$$ $$$$
I N E X P E N S I V E (Meals under $10) M O D E R A T E (Mostly under $20) E X P E N S I V E (Mostly under $30) V E R Y E X P E N S I V E ($30 and above)
Price classifications are approximate and based on the cost of a typical main course that serves one. For restaurants primarily offering multicourse family meals, the cost per person of such a meal is used.
Restaurant hours are changing frequently. Check websites or social media accounts for the most current information.
2022
plate—just pops. Grab a date, grab your friends, and get to the party. Don’t miss the beautifully ferocious Devil Chicken curry, amped up by both fresh and dried bird’s eye chiles along with ghost peppers and accompanied by a saucer of habanero vinegar that magically cuts the heat and enhances it at the same time. 2104 Main St., cobis.la, or @cobis.la. Beer and wine.
❂ Colapasta
» Italian $ It’s equally pleasant to grab and go or eat at this quiet, affordable spot that features fresh pastas topped with farmers’ market fare. The colorful, poppy-seed-sprinkled beet ravioli is delicate and delicious, while the gramigna with pesto and ricotta is hearty and satisfying. 1241 5th St., 310-310-8336, or colapasta.com. Beer and wine. SANTA MONICA
❂ Crudo e Nudo SANTA MONICA » Seafood $$
Brian Bornemann, the 31-year-old former executive chef at Michael’s Santa Monica, has gone his own way. He and his girlfriend, Leena Culhane, have launched a sustainable neighborhood joint that’s by turns a coffee shop, a seafood market, and a casual restaurant where you can nibble impeccably prepared crudo, tuna tartare toasts, and vegan Caesar salads on the patio while sipping a thoughtfully selected natural wine. Though the project began as a pandemic pop-up, it’s now an exciting brick-andmortar spot from one of the city’s most promising young toques. 2724 Main St., crudoenudo.com, or @crudo_e_nudo. Beer and wine.
❂ Dear John’s CULVER CITY » Steak House $$$
There’s still good times and great food to be had at this former Sinatra hang stylishly revamped by Josiah Citrin and Hans Röckenwagner. Steakhouse classics—crab Louie, oysters Rockefeller, thick prime steaks—pay homage to the lounge’s Rat Pack past and can be enjoyed on a sunny new patio or to go. 11208 Culver Blvd., 310-881-9288, or dearjohnsbar.com. Full bar.
DY L A N + J E N N I
AUG
❂ Birdie G’s
Fried tapioca cubes at Caboco
❂ Etta
CULVER CITY
» Italian $$$
With a sprawling patio, lengthy menu, and various party tricks (the restaurant calls them “moments”), Etta is primed for good times. You can go big and order a $120 short rib “picnic” with various accoutrements for the table or opt to have wine poured into your mouth from a large jug while a server snaps Polaroids. But you can also just pop in for a pizza or excellent pasta at the bar. For dessert, there are shots of tequila and coffee topped with rainbow-sprinkled shortbread cookies. 8801 Washington Blvd., ettarestaurant.com, or @ettarestaurant. Full bar.
❂ Felix VENICE » Italian $$$
At Evan Funke’s clubby, floral-patterned trattoria, the rigorous dedication to tradition makes for superb focaccia and pastas. The rigatoni cacio e pepe—tubes of pasta adorned only with Pecorino Romano cheese and black pepper—nods to Roman shepherds who used the spice to keep warm, while the rigatoni all’Amatriciana with cured pork cheek sings brilliantly alongside Italian country wines. 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., 424-387-8622, or felixla.com. Full bar.
✤ Matū
» Steak $$$ Prolific restaurateur Jerry Greenberg (Sugarfish, Nozawa Bar, KazuNori, Uovo, HiHo Cheeseburger) and his partners are convinced that they serve the world’s best beef, prepared in the most optimal way. After trying their five-course, $78 Wagyu dinner featuring sustainably raised, 100 percent grass-fed beef from First Light Farms in New Zealand, you might see things their way. Magnificently marbled steaks are cooked to “warm red,” which is the color of rare and the temperature of medium rare. The result is meat that’s tender, luscious, and strikingly beefy. 239 S. Beverly Dr., matusteak.com. Full Bar.
BEVERLY HILLS
❂ Mírame
BEVERLY HILLS » Mexican $$$ Joshua Gil is cooking exciting, contemporary Mexican fare with market-driven ingredients and serving them on a stunning patio. Dishes are imaginative but not overly contrived—salmonskin chicharrón with fermented garlic aioli; a divine slow-cooked Heritage Farms pork shoulder served with a black-lime gastrique, celtuce, and hearty, richly flavorful frijoles charros cooked with a pig’s head. The latter is available as part of Mírame’s to-go family meal, which includes house-made tortillas; a memorable riff on Caesar salad with pork chicharrón, roasted vegetables and goat cheese; chocolate flan; and an adorable little bottle of margaritas. At just $105 for two people, it’s an amazingly affordable way to sample Gil’s cooking. 419 N. Canon Dr., 310-230-5035, mirame.la. Full bar.
❂ Ospi VENICE » Italian $$$
Jackson Kalb’s sprawling new Italian joint brings bustle and outdoor tables to a corner on an otherwise quiet stretch. Pastas, including a spicy rigatoni alla vodka and raschiatelli with a pork rib ragù, are sublime, and most travel remarkably well if you’re looking to takeout, which is the only option for lunch. Roman-style pizzas boast a uniquely crispy, cracker-thin crust; to get the full crunch, have a slice as you drive your takeout home. 2025 Pacific Ave., 424-443-5007, ospivenice.com, or @ospiveni. Full bar.
❂ Pasjoli
SANTA MONICA
» French $$$$
Dave Beran’s à la carte spot bucks the trends and eschews bistro clichés in favor of old-fashioned thrills—an elaborate pressed duck prepared just as Escoffier would have and served with potatoes au gratin dauphinois—and modern French fare. The showy duck must be reserved in advance as
only a limited number of birds are available each night. But there are plenty of other exciting dishes on the menu, such as the chicken liver in brioche and a complex lobster, mussel, and clam bisque with shaved fennel and tarragon. 2732 Main St., 424-330-0020, or pasjoli.com. Full bar.
DOWNTOWN ❂ Angry Egret Dinette CHINATOWN » Sandwiches $$
Wes Avila has left Guerrilla Tacos and is focusing on torta-esque sandwiches at this heartfelt new venture. Standouts include the Saguaro with tempura-fried squash blossoms, heirloom tomato, market greens, ricotta cheese, and salsa macha. It’s hearty and decadent but also wonderfully nuanced. There’s ample outdoor seating, but sandwiches with fried ingredients miraculously manage to remain crispy and travel well. 970 N. Broadway, Ste. 114, 213-278-0987, aedinette.com, or @angryegretdinette.
Badmaash
HISTORIC CORE » Indian $$ This Indian gastropub concept comes from the father-and-sons team of Pawan, Nakul, and Arjun Mahendro, who are all well versed in the culinary techniques of East and West. The menu features contemporary mash-ups, like a version of poutine smothered in chicken tikka, tandoori chicken wings, and a spicy lamb burger. If tradition’s your thing, you’ll be comforted by what they call Good Ol’ Saag Paneer. 108 W. 2nd St., 213-221-7466, badmaashla.com. Beer and wine. Also at 418 N. Fairfax Ave., 213-281-5185, Fairfax District.
✤❂ Caboco
ARTS DISTRICT » Brazilian $$ Rodrigo Oliveira and fellow chef/partner Victor Vasconcellos are here to show Los Angeles that there’s a lot more to Brazilian food than churrascarias, so they’re serving habit-forming fried tapioca cubes and a vegan stew (moqueca de caju) headlined by cashew fruit that’s startlingly complex. Wash it all down with refreshing caipirinhas—the bar makes no less than five different kinds. 1850 Industrial St., 213405-1434, cabocola.com, or @caboco.la. Full bar.
✤❂ Caldo Verde ARTS DISTRICT » Portuguese $$$
Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne have opened a Portuguese cousin to their beloved Spanish-infused A.O.C. The restaurant loads up its namesake seafood stew with a generous amount of local rock crab, grilled linguica, mussels, kale, and potato. It’s a tremendous example of the rough-andtumble food that Goin loves—dishes in which she deftly balances salt, fat, and bold flavors with California brightness. A starter of Iberico ham, anchovies, and olives is called “a small plate of salty favorites” because Goin understands that you visit restaurants to be jolted and enjoy food that’s a bit more intense than what you typically eat at home. 1100 S. Broadway, 213-806-1023, or properhotel.com/downtownla. Full bar.
❂ Camphor
ARTS DISTRICT » French/Indian $$$$ “The main plan for this restaurant was to transport people,” says Max Boonthanakit of the new Arts District bistro he opened with Michelinstarred chef Lijo George. “Bistro” may be an understatement, given the restaurant’s stunning minimalist interior and exquisitely prepared dishes, but Camphor is, at its core, a French bistro where plump oysters are served in a bath of amaretto mignonette and the beef tartare comes with a side of tempura-fried herbs. Boonthanakit and George aim to bring something completely new to L.A.—that is, something distinctively not L.A. Camphor’s access to the spices from George’s southern Indian homeland makes it a standout. 923 E. 3rd St., Ste. 109, camphor.la. Full bar.
❂ Cha Cha Chá ARTS DISTRICT » Mexican $$
The huge, lively, plant-filled rooftop and some mezcal would be enough for a good night out at this Mexico City import, but chef Alejandro Guzmán, an alum of Le Comptoir, has packed his menu with quiet thrills. Carnitas get taken up a level by an orange reduction that comes at the end of the long cooking process. For dessert, the carrot flan is a small revelation, a surprising, exciting riff on carrot cake. The newly opened interior bar, La Barra, offers up unique mezcal cocktails. 812 E. 3rd St., 213548-8487, or chachacha.la. Full bar.
❂ Girl & the Goat ARTS DISTRICT » Eclectic $$$
At long last, Top Chef winner Stephanie Izard has brought her hit Chicago restaurant to a light, airy space and pretty patio in downtown L.A. with seating for 200. The lengthy menu is full of international intrigue and the unexpected flavor combinations Izard is known for. Roasted beets mingle with blackberries and a yuzukosho vinaigrette. A salmon poke features chili crunch, avocado, and strawberry. Goat makes an appearance in both a liver mousse starter and a hearty curry main. 555-3 Mateo St., 213-799-4628, girlandthegoat.com, or @girlandthegoatla. Full bar.
❂ Kodō
DOWNTOWN » Japanese $$$ Everything about the look of this new izakaya-style restaurant in the Kensho Rykn hotel is serene. But don’t be fooled by the restaurant’s visual tranquility. The energy of Kodō, which translates to “heartbeat,” is intentionally boisterous because the chef, Yoya Takahashi, wanted to stay true to what a Kyoto-style izakaya would be—a fun place with an upbeat vibe and traditional Japanese bar fare. So the food comes out fast and without pretense. A Caesar salad of Little Gem lettuce is blanketed with bonito flakes. The off-menu toro is served with a tangy cilantro sauce, minced tomato, and cucumber, and has the kind of fatty, melt-in-your mouth quality you can’t forget (and don’t want to). 710 S. Santa Fe Ave., downtown, 213-302-8010, kodo.la. Full bar.
CENTRAL ❂ Alta Adams WEST ADAMS » California Soul Food $$
Riffing on his grandmother’s recipes, Watts native Keith Corbin loads up his gumbo with market veggies and enlivens his collard greens with a smoked oil. Soul food in this city is too often associated with Styrofoam containers, but this verdant patio, is a lovely place to linger. Hot sauce splashed onto skillet-fried chicken is pure pleasure, enhanced by a bourbon drink the bar tints with roasted peanuts and huckleberries. Finish the night by taking on a heroic wedge of coconut cake. 5359 W. Adams Blvd., 323-571-4999, or altaadams.com. Full bar.
❂ A.O.C.
BEVERLY GROVE » California $$$ Driven by culinary excellence, A.O.C. is anchored by a courtyard with soft sunlight and laurel trees. Caroline Styne’s wine list doesn’t shy away from the ecology of vineyards, while Suzanne Goin’s cooking has become indispensable. Carefully constructed salads showcase vegetables at their best, and the roasted chicken with panzanella is both an homage to San Francisco’s Zuni Café and a classic in and of itself. 8700 W. 3rd St., 310859-9859, or aocwinebar.com. Full bar. Also at 11648 San Vicente Blvd., 310-806-6464, Brentwood.
✤ Bicyclette
» French $$$ Walter and Margarita Manzke’s delightful, delicious follow-up to République brings a bit of Paris to Pico. The menu is stocked with exactingly executed bistro standards: onion soup with oozy cheese, hearty short rib bourguignon, and a luxurious bouillabaisse. Margarita’s baguettes and
PICO-ROBERTSON
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Brandoni Pepperoni WEST HOLLYWOOD » Pizza $$
Six nights a week, Brandon Gray turns out some of L.A.’s most exciting pizzas. Gray, a veteran of Navy kitchens and top local restaurants like Providence, brings boundless imagination to his pies. They’re topped with premium ingredients—Jidori chicken, Sungold tomatoes, Spanish octopus—in exciting combinations. A curry-Dijonnaise dressing renders a side salad surprisingly memorable. 5881 Saturn St., 323-306-4968, or brandoni-pepperoni.com. Wine to go.
Fanny’s
MID WILSHIRE » French $$$ Even with a glass wall opening onto exhibits, architect Renzo Piano succeeded in creating an eatery at the Academy Museum of Motion Pictures that feels quite cinematic. While by day, Fanny’s is a café that serves salads and sandwiches to museumgoers, by night, it’s a glam, modern vision of an old-school Hollywood hangout. Captains in suits push carts of gooey, French, washed-rind cow’s milk cheeses and carve thick, bloody slices of côte de boeuf tableside. But there are also plenty of modern touches. Instead
C H E F FAV O R I T E S
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of a live band, Fanny’s has a different DJ spinning records every night. Chef Raphael Francois (Le Cirque, Tesse) sends out perfect twists on a Caesar salad and plays around with menu items that are more 2022 than old Hollywood, like hamachi crudo on a bed of sweet pickled grapes and jicama with brown butter and cilantro. 6067 Wilshire Blvd., Mid Wilshire, fannysla.com. Full Bar.
❂ Gigi’s
HOLLYWOOD MEDIA DISTRICT » French $$$ With its sceney Sycamore Avenue location and gorgeous, illustration-lined interiors, Gigi’s could easily succeed with subpar fare. But chef Matt Bollinger’s bistro classics—like curry mussels, steak tartare, and roasted chicken—are done quite well, if priced rather high. The wine list from beverage director Kristin Olszewski, an Osteria Mozza alum, is surprisingly interesting, with various natural and biodynamic options on offer. 904. N. Sycamore Ave., gigis.la, or @gigis_la. Full bar.
Harold & Belle’s JEFFERSON PARK » Southern Creole $$
For Creole-style food—a mélange of French, African, and Native American flavors—Harold & Belle’s is as close to the Dirty Coast as you’ll come on the West Coast. The crawfish étouffée in spicy gravy will have you humming zydeco, while the bourbon bread pudding will leave you with a Sazerac-worthy buzz. 2920 W. Jefferson Blvd., 323-735-9023, or haroldandbelles.com. Full bar.
✤ Horses
HOLLYWOOD » Eclectic $$$ Versatile power-couple chefs Liz Johnson (who earned extensive national acclaim at Freedman’s) and Will Aghajanian (formerly the chef de cuisine at Vespertine) have created a lively California bistro that feels both old-school and of the moment. Located in the red-boothed space that was home to Ye Coach & Horses, the restaurant exudes vintage Hollywood glamour. The mostly European-inspired menu is rooted in both classic technique and freespirited cooking. A sobrassada panino with white American cheese and a drizzle of honey is thin, crispy, sweet, savory, creamy, and spicy: an extremely pleasing little bite. Lumache pasta with vodka sauce gets an unexpected and delightful kick from ’nduja. 7617 W. Sunset Blvd. or horsesla.com. Full bar.
Hotville Chicken
» Fried chicken $ With her hot chicken joint, Kim Prince is doing her family’s legacy justice—she’s the niece of André Prince Jeffries, owner of Nashville legend Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack, where hot fried chicken is said to have originated. Prince adds spice at every step in the cooking process to produce a complex, layered flavor. Sides, like mac and cheese, are also winners. 4070 Marlton Ave., 323-792-4835, or hotvillechicken.com. No alcohol.
BALDWIN HILLS CRENSHAW
Lamb Karahi CALI TANDOOR
These guys do Indian food properly. As an Englishman, I’m in constant search of good Indian, and this place is legit. $15.95. 9609 Venice Blvd., Culver City, calitandoor.com.
Beef Rendang COBI’S
It’s rare that we frequent a restaurant as a family. My wife and our daughter have somewhat different tastes, but we all really love this
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place. The charm of the dining room and simple casual service are just up our alley, and the food is topnotch, especially the rendang. $21. 2104 Main St., Santa Monica, cobis.la.
Dirty Chicken CITRIN
To be honest, the mashed potatoes that come with it are my favorite, but the chicken’s pretty epic also. $78 for two people. 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, citrinandmelisse.com. — H E AT H E R P L AT T
Lalibela
» Ethiopian $-$$ The strip of Fairfax known as Little Ethiopia has long been dominated by the same handful of restaurants. Chef-owner Tenagne Belachew worked in a few of them before opening her own sophisticated haven, which invites with the swirling aromas of berbere and burning sage. Stretchy disks of injera—the sour, teff-flour pancake that doubles as a utensil for scooping up food by hand—arrive piled with uniquely pungent delights. There are wots, or stews, made with chicken or spiced legumes or lamb sautéed in a creamy sauce. 1025 S. Fairfax Ave., 323-965-1025, or lalibelala.com. Beer and wine. FAIRFAX DISTRICT
Luv2Eat Thai Bistro HOLLYWOOD » Thai $$
Vibrant flavors and spices abound at this strip-mall favorite from two Phuket natives. The crab curry, with a whole crustacean swimming in a creamy pool of deliciousness, is not to be missed (it travels surprisingly well), but the expansive menu is full of winners, from the massaman curry to the Thai fried
chicken with sticky rice and sweet pepper sauce. 6660 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-498-5835, luv2eatthai.com, or @luv2eat.thaibistro.
❂ Ronan
FAIRFAX DISTRICT » Cal-Italian $$ At Daniel and Caitlin Cutler’s chic pizzeria, the pies—especially the How ‘Nduja Like It? with spicy sausage, gorgonzola crema, green onion, and celery— are the clear stars, but it’s a big mistake not to explore the entire menu. It’s filled with delicious delights, from cacio e pepe risotto to a sea bass served with an ever-changing assortment of banchan. 7315 Melrose Ave., 323-917-5100, ronanla.com, or @ronan_la. Full bar.
❂ Son of a Gun BEVERLY GROVE » Seafood $$
Florida-raised chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo deliver a certain brand of sun-drenched seashore nostalgia. Dropping into the nautically themed dining room for chilled peel-and-eat shrimp and a hurricane feels as effortless as dipping your toes in the sand. There are buttery lobster rolls and fried-chicken sandwiches alongside artfully plated crudos. 8370 W. 3rd St., 323-782-9033, or sonofagunrestaurant.com. Full bar.
❂ Soulmate
» Mediterranean $$$ It’s lovely outside, and there’s a stunning new WeHo spot with a patio that can hold 75 attractive people, plus hours that go to midnight on Friday and Saturdays. Starters include various jamones and spicy paella bites. Further down the menu, there’s lot of seafood options, from wood-fired octopus with charred romesco to salmon crudo. 631 N. Robertson Blvd.,310-734-7764, soulmateweho.com, or @soulmateweho. Full bar.
WEST HOLLYWOOD
EAST ✤❂ Agnes Restaurant & Cheesery PASADENA » Eclectic $$
This low-key charmer—the work of two alums of acclaimed San Francisco Italian joint Flour + Water—deftly mixes midwestern hospitality and European technique. The casual lunch is all about cheese and charcuterie boards and sandwiches. At dinner, excellent pastas, smartly prepared proteins, thoughtfully selected wines, and great cocktails join the party on the spacious patio. 40 W. Green St., 626389-3839, agnesla.com, or @agnes_pasadena. Full bar.
❂ All Day Baby SILVER LAKE » Eclectic $$
Jonathan Whitener’s Here’s Looking At You is, sadly, closed, but his thrilling cooking continues on a bustling Eastside corner. Whether you opt for smoked spare ribs, a hot catfish sandwich, or a breakfast sandwich on pastry chef Thessa Diadem’s sublime biscuits, it’s all great. 3200 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-7410082, alldaybabyla.com, or @alldaybabyla.
❂ Bar Restaurant SILVER LAKE » French $$$
Chef Douglas Rankin, who worked under Ludo Lefebvre for years, struck out on his own with this charming “neo bistro” in the old Malo space in Sunset Junction. The menu features playful Gallicish fare, like curly fries and plump mussels Dijon atop milk toast; classic cocktails; and plenty of funky wines available by the glass. A large parkinglot seating area has huge plants, twinkling lights, and good vibes. Somehow it manages to feel both festive and safe. 4326 W. Sunset Blvd. or 323-347-5557. Full bar.
❂ Eszett
SILVER LAKE » Eclectic $$ This stylish, cozy wine bar brings warm hospitality to the strip-mall space formerly occupied by Trois Familia. Chef Spencer Bezaire’s menu deftly brings in flavors from around the globe without feeling overly contrived. Chicken wings are
WONHO FR ANK LEE
beautiful desserts are as great as ever. Resisting Bicyclette’s charms is futile. 9575 W. Pico Blvd. or bicyclettela.com. Full bar.
accompanied by salsa macha, grilled Broccolini is dusted with furikake. Don’t miss the big fries. 3510 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-522-6323, or eszettla.com. Beer and wine.
❂ Found Oyster EAST HOLLYWOOD » Seafood $$$
This tiny oyster bar was a pre-pandemic favorite, and chef Ari Kolender’s seafood dishes still thrill when taken to go or enjoyed on the restaurant’s “boat deck.” The scallop tostada with yuzu kosho and basil is a must-order, and a bisque sauce takes the basic lobster roll to new heights. Interesting, affordable wines add to the fun. 4880 Fountain Ave., 323-486-7920, foundoyster.com, or @foundoyster. Beer and wine.
❂ Hippo
HIGHLAND PARK » Cal-Italian $$ Hidden in a wood-trussed dining room behind Triple Beam Pizza, this Cal-Ital restaurant from Mozza vet Matt Molina balances casual and refined. Snappy wax beans are sluiced with vinaigrette for a picnic-worthy salad. Great pastas and juicy grilled chicken thighs deliver the unfussy pleasure found at the best neighborhood spots. Eclectic regular specials like haute corn dogs add to the fun. 5916½ N. Figueroa St., 323-545-3536, or hipporestaurant.com. Full bar.
✤ KinKan
VIRGIL VILLAGE » Japanese-Thai $$$$ Nan Yimcharoen became an underground sensation during the pandemic, selling jewel box–like chirashi sushi over Instagram. Now she’s got a brick-and-mortar spot serving a Japanese-Thai tasting menu with exquisite courses like slices of bluefin tuna larb gorgeously assembled in the shape of a rose, and a resplendent crab curry with blue butterfly-pea-flower noodles and a sauce powered by innards and roe. 771 N. Virgil Ave. or @kinkan_la. Sake.
✤❂ Moo’s Craft Barbecue LINCOLN HEIGHTS » Barbecue $
Some of the best Texas barbecue is actually in L.A. Andrew and Michelle Muñoz’s brisket and beef ribs are meaty bliss that would be taken seriously in Austin. But Moo’s is very much a vital L.A. spot; the Muñozes weave in their Mexican-Angeleno roots with dishes like a cheese-and-poblanofilled pork verde sausage. 2118 N. Broadway, mooscraftbarbecue.com, or @mooscraftbarbecue. Beer and wine.
Northern Thai Food Club EAST HOLLYWOOD » Thai $
Offering specialty dishes unique to northern Thailand, this family-run favorite doesn’t skimp on flavor, spice, or authenticity. Tasty takeout meals include the khao soi gai (curry egg noodle with chicken), laab moo kua (minced pork), tam kha noon ( jackfruit salad), and pla salid tod (fried gourami fish). For those unfamiliar with the region’s distinct cuisine, the illustrious sticky rice is still a reliable bet. Need incentive? Everything on the menu is less than $10. 5301 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-474-7212, or amphainorthernthaifood.com.
❂ Playita
» Mexican $ The team behind the beloved local chainlet Guisados has taken over an old seafood taco stand on a busy Eastside stretch. The results, as you might expect, are delicious and delightful. Playita has a fresh, beachy blue-and-white aesthetic and a tight menu of well-done ceviches, seafood cocktails, and fish tacos. 3143 W. Sunset Blvd., playitamariscos.com, or @playitamariscos.
SILVER LAKE
✤❂ Saso
PASADENA » Spanish $$$ The arrival of this splashy new spot suggests that the good times might soon be here again. It shares a charming, sprawling courtyard with the Pasadena Playhouse, and the seafood-heavy
menu from chef Dominique Crisp, who previously worked at L&E Oyster Bar, begs for reuniting with friends on nice summer nights. Orange zest enlivens jamon iberico crudite, while miso butter takes grilled oysters to new heights. 37 S. El Molino Ave., 626-808-4976, sasobistro.com, or @sasobistro. Full bar.
❂ Sōgo Roll Bar LOS FELIZ » Sushi $$
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Sōgo is hardly the only concept in town devoted to rolls, but it has mastered the form. Rice is cooked with the same careful consideration and seasoning that sushi master Kiminobu Saito uses at the high-end Sushi Note, and it manages to maintain a great temperature and texture, even when being delivered. Fish is not just fresh but also flavorful, each type thoughtfully paired with ideal accompaniments, from a tangy yuzu-pepper sauce that makes salmon sing to brandy-soaked albacore with garlic-ginger ponzu and crispy onions. 4634 Hollywood Blvd., 323-741-0088, sogorollbar.com, or @sogorollbar. Beer and sake.
❂ Spoon & Pork SILVER LAKE » Filipino $$
The go-to for Filipino comfort food offers a variety of dishes, all featuring one shared ingredient: deliciousness. Spoon & Pork puts an innovative spin on some Filipino favorites—just try its adobo pork belly, pork belly banh mi, or lechón kawali. The dishes, which can be ordered at the counter to enjoy on the patio or for takeout and delivery, elegantly mix decadence with some authentic soul. 3131 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-922-6061, spoonandpork.com, or @spoonandporkla. Beer and wine.
❂ Sunset Sushi SILVER LAKE » Japanese $$$
With omakase boxes priced from $30 to $85, this new sushi place in the old Ma’am Sir space strikes the sweet spot between affordable and indulgent and is another exciting addition to the Eastside’s growing number of quality sushi options. It’s a sister spot to Highland Park’s Ichijiku, but with a more luxe vibe and a larger menu, tailor-made for takeout. 4330 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-741-8371, sunsetsushila.com, or @sunsetsushi. Beer and sake to go.
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Venice: 10101 Venice Blvd. | (310) 202-7003 Full Bar | Sushi Bar
Beverly Hills: 998 S. Robertson Blvd. | (310) 855-9380 Full Bar | Valet Parking
Dine In | Delivery | Take Out | Order Online
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❂ U Street Pizza PASADENA » Pizza $$
There was a moment in the spring when U Street’s vodka pepperoni pie was a shining star of Instagram, and rightfully so. The why-haven’t-Ihad-this-before combination of pepperoni and creamy vodka sauce is an easy win. Vegetable dishes, notably a Japanese eggplant with Calabrian chili agrodolce, are more than afterthoughts. Note that while the vodka pepperoni pie travels well, the clam pie is best enjoyed in-house. 33 E. Union St., 626-605-0430, ustreetpizza.com, or @ustreetpizza.
THE VALLEY ❂ Black Market Liquor Bar STUDIO CITY » New American $$
Some nights it seems as if half the Valley is here, enjoying the colorful patio. Top Chef graduate Antonia Lofaso’s Italian chops are visible in the buxom ricotta gnudi with brown butter and pistachios. The deep-fried fluffernutter sandwich is a reminder that food, like life, should not be taken too seriously. 11915 Ventura Blvd., 818-446-2533, or blackmarketliquorbar.com. Full bar.
❂ The Brothers Sushi WOODLAND HILLS » Sushi $$$
This hidden gem, reinvigorated when chef Mark Okuda took the helm in 2018, is worth traveling for. The excellent omakase is available L A M A G . C O M 10 9
in the restaurant, on the patio or to go. You can also order à la carte or get non-sushi items like soy-glazed grilled chicken. 21418 Ventura Blvd., 818-456-4509, thebrotherssushi.com, or @thebrotherssushila. Beer, sake, and wine.
Hank’s
» Bagels $ The L.A. bagel revolution continues at this stylish spot in the Valley that serves up carefully constructed sandwiches. Tomato, aioli, and maple-glazed bacon elevate a simple bacon, egg, and cheese, while a classic salmon-and-lox construction has thoughtful touches like salted cucumbers and pickled onions. Grab a tub of Hank’s “angry” spread—a spicy, slightly sweet concoction—to have in your fridge. 4315 Riverside Dr., 818-588-3693, hanksbagels.com, or @hanksbagels. Also at 13545 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.
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Tel Aviv Authentic Chef Kitchen ENCINO » Middle Eastern $
Deeply comforting Israeli beef stews and merguez come with a colorful and tasty array of salads showcasing produce like red cabbage, cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplant, and pumpkin. The spicy sauces that come on the side work well with anyand everything. 17630 Ventura Blvd., 747-444-7001, or telavivkoshergrill.com.
SOUTH ❂ Ali’i Fish Company EL SEGUNDO » Seafood $$
This small, unassuming spot shames all of the glossy poke purveyors popping up around town to serve mediocre versions of the Hawaiian dish. Glistening cubes of tuna, flown in fresh from the islands daily, remind you how great poke can be. The smoked-ahi dip with house-made potato chips is not to be missed. Perfect for picking up a beach picnic. 409 E. Grand Ave., 310-616-3484, or aliifishco.com.
❂ Fishing With Dynamite MANHATTAN BEACH » Seafood $$$
A premium raw bar near the beach shouldn’t be unusual, but it is. The same goes for velvety clam chowder. Here, it achieves smoky richness—you can thank the Nueske’s bacon for that—without any of the floury glop. 1148 Manhattan Ave., 310-8936299, or eatfwd.com. Full bar.
❂ Little Coyote LONG BEACH » Pizza $
That most amazing slice of pizza you had that one very drunken, late night in your early twenties in New York lives on . . . in Long Beach. The crust, made with dough cold-fermented for 48 to 72 hours, is carby perfection: tangy, crispy, thin but with a healthy puff. The concise menu doesn’t offer any revelations about what should be atop pizza, but instead perfects the usual suspects. 2118 E. 4th St., 562-434-2009; littlecoyotelbc.com, or @littlecoyotelbc. Also at 3500 Los Coyotes Diagonal, 562-352-1555.
❂ Tamales Elena Y Antojitos BELL GARDENS » Afro-Mexican $
This small spot, with counter service, a drivethrough window, and a patio purports to be the only Afro-Mexican restaurant in the area. It focuses on a distinct cuisine from a part of Guerrero to which former slaves fled. Pozoles are rich and slightly thick, and the memorable pork tamales with red sauce are wrapped in firetinged banana leaves that impart a hint of smoke. 81801 Garfield Ave., 562-0674-3043, ordertamaleselenayantojitos.com, or @tamaleselenayantojitos.
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B OW L E D OV E R
> Before sound came to the movies, crowds were jostling for seats at the Hollywood Bowl. What began as a makeshift picnic ground blossomed into our world-famous venue where captivated audiences applauded in the rain for Judy Garland and screamed for the Beatles. Founder Artie Mason Carter hustled pennies from schoolchildren and music lovers all over L.A. to build the bowl, and a year after the first season launched in 1922, she burned the mortgage onstage. The history is recounted in Hollywood Bowl: The First 100 Years, which includes this image of cell phones aglow during the L.A. Philharmonic centennial show in 2018.
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