Los Angeles magazine - December 2021 by The Lifestyle Magazines of SoCal

HOME FOR THE HOLIDAYS

OUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO THE FESTIVE SEASON

B A R E LY L E G A L

E R BA

WHAT HAPPENED AT WI SPA

How a bathhouse became a battleﬁeld over trans rights

DUDE, WHERE’S MY CAT FOOD? A supply-chain survey of the city’s hardest-to-ﬁnd items

L A G E L LY

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DECEMBER 2021

Embattled attorney Tom Girardi and Beverly Hills Housewife Erika Jayne

JEWELS THAT TELL TIME

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Celebrate being together again

Bring your friends and family to the Getty Villa this holiday season, and enjoy our winter oﬀerings:

Captivating exhibitions Rubens: Picturing Antiquity On view through January 24, 2022 Assyria: Palace Art of Ancient Iraq On view through September 5, 2022

Shopping Visit our museum store for gifts inspired by antiquity or shop our holiday gift guide online

Gardens Feel the ocean breeze as you stroll among greenery ornamented with fountains and sculptures

Seasonal menus Enjoy lattes al fresco, casual Mediterranean fare, and an afternoon tea inspired by the fruits, herbs, and vegetables grown at the Villa

D E C E M B E R 202 1

ANIMAL HOUSE

Susan Orlean wrote her new book, On Animals, while renovating the Rudolph Schindlerdesigned home she shares with her husband, son, and two dogs.

Features 70

The Trouble at Wi Spa How a tony Korean bathhouse became ground zero in the increasingly fractious war over trans rights. BY JA S O N M CG A H A N

Writer in Residence Best-selling author Susan Orlean has written about everything from taxidermy to orchid thieves. But it’s her side hustle renovating houses that’s having a big impact on L.A. architecture.

Barely Legal Crooked investigators. Stiffed orphans. A fortune squandered on bling. Inside the surreal scandal that toppled L.A.’s top lawyer and his ambitious reality-TV-star wife. BY H I L L E L A R O N

We’ve Got Game Pro ballers come from all over the world to shoot hoops on the courts of Venice Beach. But it’s the locals who are legendary. P H OTO G R A P H S BY U R S U L A VA R I T E X T BY T R I S H D E I TC H

BY M E R E D I T H M A R A N

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P H O T O G R A P H E D BY C O R I NA M A R I E

D E C E M B E R 202 1

SPOTTED

Part of a triptych by Lauren Pearson at the Band of Vices gallery in West Adams this past September.

Buzz Next Stop, City Hall?

» Rick Caruso, the billionaire mall king who owns the Grove, has long dreamed of becoming L.A.’s next mayor. Now he’s putting his money where his mouth is. BY PETER KIEFER PAGE 25

The Brief

» Hollywood’s biggest prizeﬁght; B. J. Novak unveils a cologne; a $500-milliondollar pile of rubble. PAGE 30

Lots to Desire

» Snagging adjacent parcels to build private sports complexes is now a thing. BY ALEXANDRIA ABRAMIAN PAGE 34

Gift Guide » From a souped-up e-bike and glittering baubles to genuinely cool candles and a stunning box of chocolates, we scoured the city to ﬁnd the perfect present for everyone on your list. PAGE 57

Ask Chris » Why are the AT&T buildings in L.A. so heaviy fortiﬁed? Does the L.A. school district really have a ﬁne art museum? Why are many drain covers on the L.A. river painted with cats? Our resident historian answers all your burning questions.

Incoming!

BY CHRIS NICHOLS PAGE 112

eat, drink, watch, and do for the holidays; the fabulous man behind the Broadway musical Hair; how West Adams became the city’s hottest neighborhood; and a deliciously groundbreaking Brazilian restaurant hits the Arts District PAG E 37 14 L A M AG . C O M

ON THE COVER Cover illustrated by Justin Metz

P H O T O G R A P H E D BY WAY N E NAT H A N

COV E R I M AG E : G E T T Y I M AG E S ; B AC KG R I D

» Leonard Maltin looks back on a life at the movies; what to

Maer Roshan

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF C R E AT I V E DI R E C T OR

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E X E C U T I V E E DI T OR , L A M AG.C OM

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Editor’s Note

BY MAER ROSHAN

ON A S A T U R DA Y night last

June, I was scrolling through the Twitter feed on my iPhone when I came across a couple of posts about a ruckus over at Wi Spa, a bathhouse near Koreatown just a few blocks from home. It seemed a transgender customer had set off an uproar in the ladies’ locker room after boldly disrobing near the Jacuzzi. A clutch of outraged female customers surrounded the reception desk to demand the visitor’s ouster. The spa attendant, citing antidiscrimination laws, declined to remove the transgender customer. A video of the dispute went viral, amassing thousands of comments in a few hours. Some dismissed the incident as a right-wing hoax designed to troll the trans community; others saw it as blatant transphobia. I picked up my phone and assigned a writer to the story. I knew it would be big. Los Angeles was the ﬁrst mainstream outlet to publish a piece about the incident, but we were hardly the last: In short order, the Los Angeles Times, The Guardian, Insider, Slate, 2 0 L A M AG . C O M

A trans customer in the ladies’ room of a Koreatown spa boldly disrobed near the Jacuzzi. Days of riots ensued.

and a slew of other publications followed suit, many of them depicting it as a showdown between a transgender customer and a posse of intolerant Karens. Fox News, where the story was headline news for weeks, took a different tack. For Fox, the villains were the trans visitor and the state’s bathroom law—a 2019 measure that, in Tucker Carlson’s histrionic telling, “basically invites horny guys to shower with your daughter.” A week later, the sleepy, nondescript health club across from Lafayette Skate Park had been transformed into the latest battleﬁeld in the nation’s ever-escalating culture wars, and a particularly bloody one. Over two weekends last summer, a crowd of Antifa warriors and trans allies faced off with MAGA-capped “patriots,” separated by scores of riot-gear-clad cops who dodged smoke bombs and bottles from the crowd. One guy was stabbed. On the days that I visited, there was just a handful of transgender people in the crowd. Wi Spa itself was ringed by two dozen gun-toting officers—it was effectively shut down simply for following the law. When polled on the topic, most Angelenos are broadly supportive of trans rights and empathetic to the suffering of a muchmarginalized community. But it’s one thing to support antidiscrimination laws and post pink-and-blue ﬂags on Facebook. The incident at Wi Spa made the issue suddenly personal. It wasn’t hard to see why some would be alarmed by the sight of a 200-pound stranger’s exposed male genitalia, especially in the safe space of a female-only hot tub. Ultimately, as Jason McGahan reports in his story, none of the partisan narratives about this case proved to be 100 percent accurate. Darren Merager, the nude Jacuzzi bather at the center of the story, may or may not be transgender. But a lengthy arrest record for various sex-related crimes suggests that the 52-year-old was not just a client out for a shvitz. At the moment, Merager is a fugitive evading an arrest warrant. More will be revealed if the case goes to court. But it’s my hope that McGahan’s report will bring some clarity and context to a still-raging controversy that has generated more heat than light.

Maer Roshan, Editor-in-Chief PHOTOGR A PH ED BY R ICH A R D V ILL A N I

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12.21

TH E TALK OF LOS ANG E LE S

ALL ABOARD

Caruso gets his campaign on track.

Next Stop, City Hall? RICK CARUSO, THE BILLIONAIRE MALL KING WHO OWNS THE GROVE , HAS LONG DREAMED OF BECOMING L . A .’S NEXT MAYOR . NOW HE’S PUTTING HIS MONEY WHERE HIS MOUTH IS BY PETER KIEFER

I L LUS T R AT E D B Y R OB E RT C A RT E R

L A M AG.C OM 25

Buzz

CITY HALL

political rumors revives itself like clockwork every four years: the prospect of billionaire real estate developer Rick Caruso actually running for mayor. The creator of the Grove, Palisades Village, and the Miramar Hotel in Montecito, Caruso is the closest thing L.A. has to a Bloombergian centrist, but over the years he’s proven to be more of a tease than a talent. But that might be changing. In the clearest sign yet that Caruso is running, Los Angeles has learned that the 62-year-old has hired powerhouse political consultant Ace Smith and his San Francisco-based firm, Bearstar Strategies—which counts Hillary Clinton, Governor Gavin Newsom, and Vice President Kamala Harris as clients—to run his yet-to-be-announced mayoral campaign. With the California recall election settled, the L.A. mayoral race is shaping up to be next year’s marquee political event, and the list of candidates vying to succeed mayor Eric Garcetti is growing. Several L.A. council H O L LY & J O L LY members, including Kevin de Leon and Joe Buscaino, have Rick and Tina Caruso announced their candidacies, as has L.A. city attorney at the Grove’s boisterous holiday Mike Feuer. But it was the entry of U.S. Representative bash in 2017. Karen Bass last month that upped the ante. Bass, a popular six-term congresswoman, is now considered the front-runner, and it’s her candidacy that makes the pairing of Smith and Caruso particularly intriguing. constituency, and it served as a warning sign to Biden. Within California political circles, Ace Smith is a legWhile impossible to prove, insiders speculate that the endary political operator who, for almost five decades, has whole episode smacked of vintage Ace Smith and suspected worked for a who’s who of Democratic politicians. He’s that the 63-year-old’s fingerprints were all over the story. managed campaigns for former governor Jerry Brown, Others weren’t so sure. “Ace gets credited and blamed for senators Dianne Feinstein and Barbara Boxer, and is things he had absolutely nothing to do with,” said a politiknown as a master of opposition research. cal consultant who has worked with Bearstar. “That’s just Smith’s relationship with Vice President Harris dates part of the myth.” back to the early aughts when she was serving as the San Whether real or imagined, Smith has earned a reputaFrancisco district attorney. Last summer, during Joe tion for throwing a mean political punch, a skill he’s said Biden’s search for a vice president, Smith and his team to have recently deployed to great effect against Bass, were working behind the scenes to get Harris on the Caruso’s most formidable opponent. ticket. This put Bass, who was also on Biden’s short list, in As a hotel developer and shopping-center magnate, their sights. When Politico reported in June that Bass was Caruso doesn’t fit the mold of a typical Smith client, surging in the VP sweepstakes who is usually a member of the with the help of Chris Dodd and Democratic establishment. But Garcetti, both of whom were these are not normal political on Biden’s vetting committee, it times, especially in L.A. The city “There are some appeared that the former physiis currently in the midst of two challenges his consultants cian’s assistant and nurse had a recall campaigns (both district will have to contend legitimate shot. The story characattorney George Gascón and terized Bass as the “anti-Kamala councilman Mike Bonin are with if he runs. Start with Harris,” citing Bass’s “unassuming facing recall efforts), there’s an the optics of his immense approach” and “muted ambiout-of-control homeless crisis, wealth and privilege.” tions.” But a mere two days later, violent crime is soaring, and a second story appeared, also in the recent indictment of Mark Politico, resurfacing old comRidley-Thomas—one of the city’s ments Bass had made lamenting longest-serving officials—on the death of “Comandante en federal bribery charges makes jefe” Fidel Castro. Those comhim the third current or former ments clearly wouldn’t play well L.A. city council member to among Florida’s Cuban expat be indicted on federal charges community, a powerful political since 2020. 26 L A M AG.C OM

T O P : T I F FA N Y R O S E / G E T T Y I M A G E S F O R T H E G R O V E ; B O T T O M : YA C H T C H A R T E R F L E E T. C O M

ON E OF L O S A N G E L E S ’ S most enduring

CARUSO

“Context is going to matter a lot, and there might be a counterconstituency to progressive politics that has legs in this election,” says Raphael Sonenshein, executive director of the Pat Brown Institute for Public Affairs at California State University, Los Angeles. “In 1993, when Riordan won, it was a bad time to be a liberal candidate running for mayor—but I’m not sure we’re at that point right now. Caruso is certainly a heavyweight political figure, and like all people in the race, every asset he has could also be a liability. But he’s a formidable player.” The devout Catholic father of four is no stranger to the city’s corridors of power. He’s been president of the L.A. Police Commission and a member of the board of Water and Power Commissioners. He served as the chairman of the board at USC during the most tumultuous period in the school’s history. But it was during the protests after the killing of George Floyd that Caruso may have tipped his hand on what kind of a candidate he might be. Last summer, a protest in the Fairfax District was the setting for vandalism and looting that caused thousands of dollars of damage at the Grove. The shopping center had its windows smashed, stores were burglarized, and a police kiosk was set on fire. Wary of inflaming the situation, Garcetti initially ordered the LAPD to stand back. As similar scenes spread across the city, though, the National Guard eventually dispatched troops to defend major retail outlets, including Caruso’s Palisades Village. But Caruso was incensed by the city’s early inaction. In an L.A. Times op-ed, he excoriated elected officials, saying, “You had a sacred duty to protect the residents of this city and you failed. And you had a sacred duty to protect the protesters and you failed. You had a sacred duty to protect the Black community and you failed. . . The city deserves better.” Were he to run in a campaign that could cost anywhere

28 L A M AG.C OM

SEE RICK RUN

Clockwise from left: Rival Congresswoman Karen Bass; Mayor Eric Garcetti, Caruso, and Councilman Mike Bonin in Palisades Village; hard-knuckled political consultant Ace Smith. Below: Caruso at the Run to Remember launch, 2015.

from $20 million to $50 million, Caruso could easily selffund. And if it ends up being dominated by progressive candidates duking it out, there could be an opening for a business-friendly outsider who turns the race into a referendum on jobs, law and order, and cleaning up the streets. “Rick is seriously considering a run for mayor,” said a spokesperson for Caruso. “And as part of that consideration, he has worked with numerous people, including Bearstar Strategies, to analyze the situation and determine how best he can help solve L.A.’s mounting problems.” But there are also some challenges his consultants will have to contend with if he runs. Start with the optics of his wealth and privilege. He was serving as chairman of the board at USC, for instance, when the school was implicated in the college-admissions scandal. He was then drawn deeper into that scandal when it was revealed that Olivia Jade, actress Lori Loughlin’s daughter, was spending her spring break on Caruso’s yacht when she learned that her mother was part of the college bribery case. And then there is the issue of his party affiliation: Caruso isn’t a Democrat. L.A. has had only one Republican mayor in the last four decades, Richard Riordan, who was also a successful, Catholic, Westside businessman with considerable real estate holdings. But Riordan, who served as mayor from 1993 to 2001, was considered a moderate, and in these polarized times, it’s an open question whether the city could stomach anyone other than a progressive. Forbes recently listed Caruso’s wealth at $3.9 billion. He owns homes in Brentwood, Sherman Oaks, and Newport Beach. He can often be found strolling the grounds of the Palisades Village where he hosts private events in the same space where he maintains a vintage car collection. “How the hell do you sell a Republican billionaire in these times?” said one consultant who was not quite accurate in his characterization of the man—Caruso was a lifelong Republican before he switched his affiliation to “decline to state” in 2011. Filings show that he has given to both Democrats and Republicans over the past decade. But still, you get the point.

K A R E N B A S S : L E S T E R C O H E N / G E T T Y I M A G E S F O R A S C A P ; PA L I S A D E S V I L L A G E : A M A N D A E D WA R D S / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; A C E S M I T H : L A R R Y F R E N C H / G E T T Y I M A G E S F O R M A R C H O N WA S H I N G T O N F I L M F E S T I VA L ; R U N T O R E M E M B E R : T I F FA N Y R O S E / G E T T Y I M A G E S F O R C A R U S O A F F I L I AT E D

Buzz

An immersive exhibition exploring the life of conservationist icon, Dr. Jane Goodall

NOW OPEN Buy your tickets today at NHM.ORG/jane

N E W S & N O T E S F R O M A L L OV E R

The Brief

HOLLYWOOD’S BIGGEST PRIZEFIGHT THE GLOBES MUST GO ON, UNLESS THE CRITIC S CHOICE AWARDS HAVE ANY THING TO SAY ABOUT IT BY BENJAMIN SVETKEY

AS IF OSCAR

season weren’t cutthroat enough, a rumble is coming this January that makes the one in West Side Story look like a pillow ﬁght. In one corner, there’s the muchbeleaguered Golden Globes, which, despite being canceled by NBC, is vowing to hand out accolades at a press conference-like event scheduled for January 9. In the other corner, there’s the Critics Choice Awards, which is also holding a January 9 ceremony—running both on the CW and TBS—in a brazen attempt to replace the Globes as Hollywood’s second most important awards show. “Yes, we do intend to 30 L A M AG.C OM

take [the Globes’] place in the awards ecosystem,” admits an insider at the Critics Choice Association. “That’s long been our goal. And this coming year is the opportunity of a lifetime for us to do just that.” For those keeping score, the CCA, which is made up of nearly 500 U.S.-based reviewers and entertainment writers, was the ﬁrst to snag the Globes’ traditional date—the ﬁrst nonholiday weekend of the year. That slot opened up after NBC announced last May that it was nixing the Globes show because Hollywood publicists had organized a boycott in the wake of an L.A. Times story that revealed that the Globes’ parent organization, the Hollywood Foreign Press

Association, had zero Black members. In the months since, the HFPA has rewritten its bylaws and added six Black members, but so far the publicists don’t seem to be placated. According to various reports, none of the PR ﬁrms will be recommending that their talent appear at the Globes press conference, and it doesn’t appear that any studios or networks will be submitting nominations for prizes (although the HFPA hasn’t actually been soliciting any nominations this year and will apparently be deciding awards without any outside suggestions). Meanwhile, the Critics Choice Awards keeps pushing further and further into Globes’ territory, at one point even attempting to invade the sanctum sanctorum of Globedom—the Beverly Hilton, where the HFPA held its ceremonies for decades. That incursion was rebuffed, however,

FA C E O F F

B. J. Novak isn’t making a dime off these products.

and the Critics Choice Awards will instead be held at the newly renovated Fairmont Century Plaza in Century City.

B. J. NOVAK UNVEILS COLOGNE AND PONCHO LINE I F YOU H A P P E N T O

be shopping for a rain poncho in Stockholm, you might run into a familiar face. Seems that pictures of B. J. Novak, the Office actor and creator of Hulu’s new anthology series The Premise, have ended up on a slew of overseas products—face paint in Uruguay, electric razors in China—thanks to an online screwup that’s accidentally made him an international modeling sensation. “Years ago, someone mistakenly put an image of me on a public domain site, and now apparently I am on products all around the world,” Novak, 42, said in an October Instagram post, explaining his inadvertent double life. Included in the post were photos of his face plastered on hair trimmers, cologne, and other

G O L D E N G L O B E S AWA R D : G E T T Y I M A G E S F O R H O L LY W O O D F O R E I G N P R E S S A S S O C I AT I O N ; C R I T I C S C H O I C E AWA R D , B O X I N G R I N G , TAY E D I G G S : G E T T Y I M A G E S ; R I C K Y G E R VA I S : F U T U R E V I A G E T T Y I M A G E S ; B . J . N O VA K PA C K A G I N G : @ B J N O VA K

AND THE WINNER IS . . .

2020 Golden Globes’ Ricky Gervais vs. the Critics Choice Awards’ Taye Diggs.

THE AMOUNT OF MONEY THE CITY OF L.A. HAS LOST OVER THE LAST FIVE YEARS IN PARKING AND TRAFFIC FINES. TURNS OUT IT COST THE CITY $809 MILLION IN SALARIES, EQUIPMENT, AND OTHER EXPENSES TO SLIP ALL THOSE TICKETS ON WINDSHEILDS, WHILE IT TOOK IN JUST $617 MILLION

LONELIEST NUMBER

“The One” goes on the auction block at a much-reduced price.

dodgy foreign consumer items. But he doesn’t seem that upset about the mixup and apparently hasn’t sent any cease-and-desist letters. “I am too amused to do anything about it,” he posted. — K A I LY N B R O W N

“ T H E O N E ” : A L L E N J . S C H A B E N / L O S A N G E L E S T I M E S V I A G E T T Y I M A G E S ; I N S TA B A B I E S T R O P H Y : G E T T Y I M A G E S / I S T O C K P H O T O ; I N S TA B A B I E S P O R T R A I T S : @ E U A M O N O N O ; @T H E Y E E T B A B Y ; @ H A L S T O N . B L A K E ; @ D R E W H A Z E L E A S T; @ F L AV I N H A L O U I S E

BEL-AIR’S $500 MILLION PILE OF RUBBLE

auction in October at the measly starting price of just $168 milllion. That auction, though, was put on hold at the last minute as two of Niami’s lenders—billionaire real estate developer Don Hankey (who’s on the hook for $106 million) and longtime Niami investor Yogi Engaloff (who lent Niami $30 million)—duke

$192M

it out in court over competing claims for getting at least some of their money back. Engaloff has accused Hankey of purposely pulling out of an earlier deal to relist the mansion at $225 million in a scheme to take ownership for himself. A judge will decide how best to ultimately unload the property by resuming the planned auction or through a private listing or bankruptcy court. Meanwhile, just across Bel-Air’s Stone Canyon Road, Mohamed Hadid’s mega-mansion actually did go on the auction block in October, the latest turn in a spate of legal troubles that date back to 2015, when Hadid was slapped with criminal charges for building the

monstrosity on unstable ground. He pleaded no contest, but the building stayed up, hanging over a steep hillside and leaving neighbors worried that it would eventually slide down and crush them. They sued Hadid in 2018, and in 2019 a judge ordered the building torn down. To pay for the demolition, the property was put on the market earlier this year for just $8.5 million. When even that bargainbasement price failed to snag a buyer, the judge ordered the auction, with two bidders each offering around $5 million. Negotiations between the bidders and the property’s receiver are ongoing, with hopes for a deal soon. —REBEKAH BRANDES

“ T H E ON E ,” T H A T

massive Bel-Air megamansion touted by owner-developer Nile Niami as “the most expensive house in the urban world” is back in the news again. Six years after Niami predicted a $500 million sale of his passion project—a 105,000-square-foot behemoth that includes a four-lane bowling alley, five swimming pools, a 10,000-bottle wine cellar, and a jellyfish-tank room—he has not only failed to find a buyer but has also defaulted on at least $165 million in loans. In October, Niami’s development company filed for bankruptcy while his dream mansion has gone into receivership and was supposed to go up for

T H E N E W FA M E

M I L L ION-D OL L A R B A B I E S WITH THEIR MINI MAKEUP TUTORIALS AND TINY DANCE CRAZES, THESE INSTA-BABIES HAVE CRAWLED TO THE TOP OF THE SOCIAL MEDIA SCENE. HERE ARE INSTAGRAM’S TOP INFANT INFLUENCERS, ACCORDING TO BABYSENSE BY CHRIS NICHOLS

InstaBabies Rankings

Noah Tavares @euamono

Marleigh Grant @theyeetbaby

Halston Blake Fisher @halston.blake

Drew Hazel @drewhazeleast

Flávia Louise @ﬂavinhalouise

Followers

1.1M

606K

507K

693K

Average Likes Per Post

44.7K

151K

50.4K

59K

124K

Potential Earnings Per Post

$4.8K

$4.6K

$3K

$2.6K

$1K

L A M AG.C OM 31

BUZZ

M A R K E T WAT C H

Running on Empty AS THE SUPPLY CHAIN GOES INSANE, L.A. STORES ARE SUDDENLY SELLING OUT OF EVERYTHING FROM DOG FOOD TO DOM PERIGNON BY H E I DI S I E GM U N D C U DA

Amoeba Music co-owner Jim Henderson says he’s spinning his wheels trying to keep the Audio-Technica AT-LP 120, his best-selling turntable, in stock. And at Best Buys all across town, PlayStation 5 and other gaming consoles are also becoming impossible to ﬁnd, thanks in part to global microchip shortages. Teenagers could soon be forced to play outside, and immature adults may have to ﬁnd age-appropriate hobbies.

PET SUPPLIES

Finding precious pet food for Fido and Fluff y is deﬁnitely iff y, thanks to ingredient shortages and Asian-sourced brands

VEHICLES A Mercedes-Benz G550

will set you back $50,000 to $100,000 over the $132,800 sticker if you can ﬁnd one, says a local Benz dealer. And delivery dates on new Teslas keep on slipping into the future. “We are hopeful it will ease up next year, but no one knows for sure,” says

32 L A M AG . C O M

marooned at the Port of Long Beach. Local dogs are having to go without the wildly popular treat Bully Sticks, according to the Healthy Spot pet store in Glendale. Housebreaking a puppy? Target’s training pads were recently sold out across town. Owners of felines, meanwhile, are contending with a dearth of high-end cat chow, especially Fancy Feast. Vons in

East Hollywood has had stretches recently with no pet food for sale at all. HARDWARE AND APPLIANCES

“It’s a little bit of everything,” says Santa Monica custom-home builder Rocco Borgese. “We can’t get drawer slides for cabinets—I have to send guys to Arizona to get pool ﬁ lters, motors, and heaters.” Even chemicals are running dry. Acute shortages of chlorine are drying up pools across the region and leading to porch thefts of deliveries. And, because of a shortage of certain pigments, blue paint has also gone missing. Even if the color of your choice is in stock, good luck getting your hands on the paint cans to put it in. Big-ticket appliances are challenging to acquire as well, putting a damper on home renovations. A Westsider who placed an order for a SubZero fridge months ago was told she won’t actually be part of the cool crowd until next July. FOOD AND COFFEE

Perhaps nothing is as terrifying as a lack of coffee, but that’s the reality we now face. “We’re short on cups, lids, sleeves, beans— you name it,” an Eastside Peet’s manager says. Starbucks was out of straws and

green tea for a month. Elsewhere, fans of bucatini pasta and Thai eggplant report that both are hard to come by. Prepare to make some substitutions this Thanksgiving. MEDICAL EQUIPMENT

Everything from crutches to syringes are scarce. Wheelchair deliveries are backlogged up to eight months, says Preston Nguyenbui of Home Medical Supplies in Pasadena. BEDDING A lack of sheets at local

hotels has those in the hospitality industry sleeping poorly. “I’ve never seen anything like this in 20 years—it’s so out of control,” laments Mark Verge, owner of Venice on the Beach and several other properties. “Every day, we’re on the phone, sourcing, pricing, getting hammered.” CHAMPAGNE

Speaking of hammered, Dom Perignon, Veuve Clicquot, and Krug cham-

pagnes keep selling out at Wally’s in Santa Monica, presenting “continuting challenges,” according to a store rep. But, fear not, there will be bubbles for New Year’s, just from lesser-known producers. The rep says, “We have other brands.”

V E U V E C L I CQ U OT: U L L ST E I N B I L D V I A G E T T Y I M AG E S ; YAC H T: G E T T Y I M AG E S / I STO C K P H OTO ; D O G : G E T T Y I M AG E S ; S U V: M E R C E D E S - B E N Z U SA

ELECTRONICS

a Tesla rep. Meanwhile, El Sereno’s Cycle N Motion says it’s rationing what little bicycle inventory it can snag as manufacturers prioritize big-box stores. “You get what you can get,” says owner Estevan Preciado. And it’s not just land-locked vehicles that are hard to come by—used yachts have also become difficult to get, says local broker John Carello.

BUZZ

S U R R E A L E S TAT E

Lots to Desire

What $2 Million Will Get You in . . .

SNAGGING ADJACENT PARCELS—VACANT OR NOT—TO BUILD PRIVATE SPORTS COMPLEXES IS NOW A THING

1.98 M

BY ALEXANDRIA ABRAMIAN

SUBDIVIDE & CONQUER

A basketball court and pool occupy a neighbor’s former lot in the South Bay.

L AU R E L C A N YON SIZE 1,715 square feet HIGHLIGHTS This 1959 estate, recently

updated with a gourmet kitchen and three baths, features a view of the Hollywood sign and canyon vistas. The reduced price offers an unusual opportunity in this red-hot location. 1 YEAR AGO $2.2m

⁄ TODAY $1.98m

CONTACT Tori Horowitz, Compass Hollywood

T H E C O M B I NAT I O N

of small lots and the athletic aspirations of upscale homeowners is creating a market for buyers who snap up neighboring properties and install personal basketball, volleyball, soccer, and even bocce courts. “Some are for professional NHL, NBA, and MLB players as well as nonpro homeowners,” says Anthony Laney of the Hermosa Beachbased architectural ﬁrm Laney LA. Recent projects include a full-sized

basketball court that Laney designed and installed after a client purchased and promptly demoed the home next to hers. Says Brett Zebrowski, owner of Palm Boutique Realty, “I have so many clients who are waiting to buy their neighbor’s lot. A lot of people are building batting cages and goalie nets.” Not that all neighborly acquisitions are strictly athletic, Zebrowski notes. “I recently helped a client buy the house next door for $3.65 million. They [razed it and] put in a pool.”

2.1 M

C U LV E R C I T Y SIZE 2,091 square feet HIGHLIGHTS Located in the Veterans Park

section of Culver City, this two-story, three-bedroom contemporary combines an open-plan living area with a gourmet kitchen and a pool with a spa, a rarity in Culver City. 1 YEAR AGO $1.9m

⁄ TODAY $2.1m

SO LD

! > Lady Gaga has quietly sold her Laurel Canyon com-

pound, former residence of Frank Zappa. Gaga bought the eccentric 6,700-square-foot house on Woodrow Wilson Drive for $5.25 million in 2016; it sold in August for $6.45 million to an undisclosed buyer, according to public records. Gaga recorded her 2020 Chromatica album in the home studio, where Zappa recorded many of the 60 albums he released before his death in 1993.

1.98M

C A H U E N G A PA S S

HOT TAKES I

A A R O N K I R M A N —P R E S I D E N T, CO M PA S S E S TAT E S

> What's with all those nine-ﬁgure houses for sale these days? “There are a limited amount of real $100 million to $200 million properties in L.A. As an agent with experience, I think, ‘Why the hell are you at $120 million?’ It doesn’t take a genius to know they’re never going to get it. Those are constant-reduction houses. Sellers need to start pricing correctly to have a better chance of getting it sold rather than it languishing on the market for years.” 34 L A M AG.C OM

SIZE 2,089 square feet HIGHLIGHTS This historic three-level structure

comprises the original streamline moderne home designed by William Kesling in 1935 and an addition with one bedroom designed by Mills Studio in 2002. An indoor catwalk connects the two wings. 1 YEAR AGO $1.5m

⁄ TODAY $1.98m

CONTACT Julia Allos, Deasy/Penner & Podley

S P O R T S C O U R T: J E S S I S S A C ; S O L D ! : T H E M L S . C O M ; H E A D S H O T: A A R O N K I R M A N G R O U P ; C U LV E R C I T Y : P O S T R A I N P R O D U C T I O N S ; C A H U E N G A PA S S : C H A R M A I N E D AV I D

CONTACT Debbie Weiss, KW Santa Monica

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Incoming F O O D • C U LT U R E

FA S H I O N • F U N

Plus > Hot holiday movies that will bring cheer to you and yours PAGE 38 NOAH’S ARC

> A legendary producer’s Hair-raising final production of his iconic musical comes to L.A.

The Daily Show comic takes his act on the road with his Back to Abnormal tour.

PAGE 42

> Innovative Brazilian food hits the Arts District PAGE 50

HOT TICKET

Trevor Noah THE DAILY SHOW ’S CONTROVERSIAL HOST ADDS A WORLD STADIUM TOUR TO HIS FIERY COMIC ARSENAL

VIACO M

BY STEVE APPLEFORD

The South African comic and purveyor of outrage-provoking social media bluster seemed an unlikely heir to the genial Jon Stewart. That casting decision by Comedy Central now looks like a stroke of genius, as Noah has since evolved into a marquee talent with enough celebrity wattage to ﬁll sports arenas on his Back to Abnormal world tour, landing December 4 at the Forum in Inglewood. On The Daily Show,

Noah grapples with the day’s bad news and worse, riffing on the death of George Floyd, the rioting at the Capitol, the misery of Britney Spears, and the pandemic, the last addressed in the discomﬁting segment “Is This How We Die?” His stand-up sets are typically weighty and sublime, infuriating and hilarious, as ridiculous as anti-vaxxers and as absurd as your last Zoom meeting. For tickets, go to thelaforum.com.

+ +L L A M AG.C OM 37

Incoming

FILM

Everyone Is a Critic BUT NOBODY DOES IT QUITE AS WELL AS LEONARD MALTIN, WHOSE NEW MEMOIR OPENS THE CURTAIN ON OVER 50 YEARS OF FILM REVIEWING BY A N DY L E W IS

S T E P P I N G I N T O Leonard Maltin’s San Fernando Valley home feels a bit like taking a wrong turn into a private wing of the new Academy Museum. The place is so chockablock with memorabilia—giant banner ads from the silent era; Mickey Mouse animation cels; a chair from New York’s Paramount Theatre; even a replica of Charles Foster Kane’s old sled, Rosebud—he should charge an admission fee. But these days, Maltin, whose ﬁlm reviews and guides are still required reading for any serious cinema buff, has found a different subject to write about: himself. His memoir, Starstruck: My Unlikely Road to Hollywood, now in bookstores, tells the story of a kid from Teaneck, New Jersey, who tapped out his ﬁrst movie guide while still a student at NYU, spent 28 years on Entertainment Tonight, and ended up making friends (and sometimes enemies) with some of Hollywood’s biggest names. Below, the consummate critic answers a few choice questions.

What made you decide, at 70, to write a memoir? > I’ve been thinking about it because I had all these stories, and I had a simpatico publisher—so I figured, why not? Then the pandemic came along. I had time. You’ve been writing film criticism for five decades. How has it changed? Has the internet killed it? > Rotten Tomatoes isn’t really new. It’s just an aggregator. I’m a tomato. I don’t see an 82 score on Rotten Tomatoes as any different than that thumbs-up from Gene Siskel and Roger Ebert, which was the gold standard for approving or disapproving of a movie. What it has killed is employment for people who want to do film 3 8 L A M AG . C O M

criticism as a living. That’s been a body blow. I’m lucky that I juggle enough balls that I can survive without writing ﬁlm reviews. But we’ve moved on from that

“Everybody was mad at me over Taxi Driver. And Blade Runner.” era. I teach at USC. I tested this: they’ve never heard of Siskel and Ebert. Let alone Pauline Kael. > Don’t go there.

On the upside, your reviews are now reaching a lot more people, thanks to the internet. > Yeah. My daughter, Jessie, and I do a weekly podcast, but we also do a livestream every Sunday. It started as kind of a lark. We talk about what we’ve seen that week and then answer questions. We hear from Dubai, we hear from Ireland, we hear from people all over the world in real time. That blows my mind. You published your ﬁrst movie guide while still a student at NYU in the late ’60s. What was that like? > I’ll always be grateful to my professors at NYU. I just missed having Scorsese as a teacher. An old pal of

mine did have Marty as his teacher and said that it was an unforgettable experience. You famously gave Taxi Driver a bad review. Was Scorsese mad at you for that? > Everybody was mad at me over Taxi Driver. And Blade Runner. Finally, after years— it took too many years for me to do this—but with Taxi Driver, I added a line: “Although, highly inﬂuential.” But Scorsese never said anything to you about it? > I don’t know if he was annoyed, but he was aware. I interviewed him and Mr. De Niro when they were promoting The Irishman. They made nine ﬁlms together. I was determined to get them to say something on each.

P H O T O G R A P H E D BY L E N K A U L R I C H OVA

REEL LIFE

Maltin at his memorabilia-packed home office in the San Fernando Valley.

H O M E M OV I E S

S T R E A M I NG A L L T H E WAY FROM LUCY AND DESI’S DIFFICULT MARRIAGE TO NEO’S RETURN TO KARATE-CRAZED TEENS IN THE VALLEY, THERE’S SOMETHING TO BINGE FOR EVERY POP-CULTURE DENOMINATION THIS DECEMBER B Y T R A C Y M O O R E

DECEMBER 2

there’s a new character as well—a shrink (that’d be Neil Patrick Harris) who helps Neo deal with his recovered memories. Go ahead, plug yourself back in.

Single All the Way NETFLIX 9 Last year, Hulu gave us Happiest Season, a sparkly Dan Levy and Kristen Stewart-led holiday rom-com about coming out. This year, Netﬂix counters with the gay Christmas tale Single All the Way, a will-they-orwon’t-they for besties Nick (Philemon Chambers) and Peter (Michael Urie), who pretend to couple up for the family holiday hang so Peter’s mom, Carole (Kathy Najimy), will stop nagging him about his love life. D E C E M B E R 10

Being the Ricardos AMAZON PRIME VIDEO 9 It can’t be overstated how powerful a grip Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz once had on

When I got to New York, New York, Scorsese whispered to the audience, “He liked that one.”

D E C E M B E R 24

Don’t Look Up

D E C E M B E R 22

Emily in Paris, Season 2 NETFLIX 9 Nothing says holiday chill like cozying up to one of the most divisive shows in recent streaming memory: Emily in Paris, an over-the-top romp about a Midwestern waif (Lily Collins) who goes to Paris as a heavily couture’d tourist, and occasionally stumbles, stiletto ﬁrst, into pop-cultural merde. (Even one of its own writers argued I May Destroy You deserved the Emmy nod more). Season 2, with Patricia Field’s dialed-to-11 costuming, promises more lightweight escapism. D E C E M B E R 22

E M I LY I N PA R I S : ST É P H A N I E B R A N C H U / N E T F L I X ; D O N ’ T LO O K U P : N I KO TAV E R N I S E / N E T F L I X ; B E I N G T H E R I C A R D O S : A M A ZO N P R I M E V I D E O ; T H E M AT R I X R E S U R E C T I O N S : H B O M A X

The Matrix Resurrections How about Blade Runner? > I gave it three shots. Every time Ridley Scott recut it and reissued it, I went and saw it again, and I still didn’t care for it. He’s since done it a fourth time. I said, “Three and I’m out.” All this memorabilia in your house—what’s it mean to you? Why do you collect? > A friend of mine says collecting this kind of stuff is buying back your childhood. He may well be right. These items evoke memories of an innocent time in my life when everything was a discovery and moviegoing was fun.

the public imagination, not just as the center of a TV show watched by half the country every week for years but also as a fully branded couple. Nicole Kidman and Javier Bardem channel the unlikely duo’s electrifying ups and downs— they’ve got a marriage so tumultuous, it makes Who’s Afraid of Virginia Woolf? look like Mad About You—as told through the making of one episode of I Love Lucy.

HBO MAX/THEATERS 9 It’s been 22 years since the third Matrix left off, and now Neo (Keanu Reeves) and Trinity (Carrie-Anne Moss) have somehow returned, despite having both died at the end of the last ﬁlm. The catch is, only one remembers the other. Morpheus makes a reappearance, too (now played by Yahya Abdul-Mateen II), and

NETFLIX 9 This dark-comedy, sci-ﬁ ﬂick about a comet barreling toward Earth, directed by the guy behind Anchorman, Adam McKay, has enough

star power to ﬁll the Dolby Theatre. Meryl Streep plays the president, Leonardo DiCaprio and Jennifer Lawrence portray low-ranking astronomers, and there are turns by Jonah Hill, Cate Blanchett, Timothée Chalamet, Rob Morgan, Ron Perlman, and Ariana Grande. D E C E M B E R 31

Cobra Kai, Season 4 NETFLIX 9 Sure, you could venture out into the cold for an overpriced New Year’s Eve bash. Or you can skip the ball and enjoy a brawl. The latter would mean curling up with your TV screen to watch Johnny Lawrence (William Zabka) and Daniel LaRusso (Ralph Macchio) ﬁnally team up to lead a band of teenagers in the Valley as they swing kick their way toward the ultimate karate tournament. Some choices make themselves. L A M AG . C O M 3 9

Incoming

MIXED MEDIA

Back to the Future

From the time it opened 40 years ago, Warren Beatty’s Reds was a picture of paradox: an old-fashioned period epic about early-twentieth-century radicals released during the ultraconservative presidency of Ronald Reagan. As a labor of love for Beatty, Reds couldn’t help wearing its heart on its sleeve for its tableau of writers, activists, and hard-boiled editors with their combustible mix of politics, art, and sex, as well as for the real-life “witnesses” interTHREE NEW BLU-R AY PACK AGES ARE OCCASION spersed throughout who remember them. FOR RECONSIDERING IT’S A WONDERFUL LIFE, REDS, On rich display in this just-released Blu-ray edition, AND CITIZEN K AN E B Y S T E V E E R I C K S O N the superb cast includes Beatty, Jack Nicholson, Gene Hackman, Maureen Stapleton, and Diane Keaton giving her best performance ever and stealing the film. In the H O U G H I T F L O P P E D upon its release in end, Reds isn’t about bolshevism per se—the toxic seeds 1946, Frank Capra’s It’s a Wonderful Life went of a repressive and murderous Stalinism already are apparon to become a perennial Christmas fable ent—but quintessentially American dreamers for whom about a small-town man who learns how much Beatty’s exuberance is so infectious that, all the controhis existence has mattered to those around him. It’s a versies notwithstanding, the Academy couldn’t deny deeply affecting movie and only, say, a magazine columnist him a Best Director Oscar. with a little bit of inner Scrooge When Beatty showed the film would mutter under his breath half to the Reagans at the White a “Bah, humbug.” But Wonderful House, even Ronnie, by all Life chases its bathos awfully hard accounts, wished wistfully for and never bothers disguising a happier ending. manipulations that reveal more If Criterion didn’t score the than intended. As essayist Michael Blu-ray release of the year with Ventura once observed, what does last spring’s World of Wong it mean that, for all its supposed Kar Wai, then its new 80thcorruption and venality, the alteranniversary Citizen Kane seals nate-reality town of Pottersville the deal. Just a gunshot short that would have existed had George of noir, the story of a newspaBailey never been born often seems per tycoon told after his death so much more alive, so much by those who knew him (or more human, than Bedford Falls, thought they did) becomes more which is sanitized to the point of conflicted each time it’s seen. seeming embalmed? That the facts of things aren’t Never mind. One thing about always the same as the truth of director Frank Capra’s dark conthem is something Orson Wells, fection (now issued as a special the film’s director and cowriter, 75th-anniversary Blu-ray) remains understood instinctively and unimpeachable: About 15 years was canny enough to make the ago, I was at an office Christmas Frank Capra’s dark movie’s point. party and, being the fun guy I am, confection remains deeply If the fragments are threaded settled into the corner to watch affecting. No actor by anything, it’s Welles himself, Wonderful Life on TV as the festivihas ever done despair like who had conquered everything ties unfolded around me; although in his path by the age of 25, the sound was all the way down, I Jimmy Stewart. radio and theater triumphs was newly awed by the mute perbehind him and an unprecformance of James Stewart. It may edented Hollywood contract in have been that night I realized his pocket. Kane became bigger than not only William that, with all due respect to Brando and Streep, Stewart Randolph Hearst—the real-life publisher who saw a little was probably our greatest American film actor. Nobody too much of himself in the film and tried to suppress it has ever done despair like Jimmy—a complicated emotion by threat and blackmail—but Welles too; it’s the manifesthat’s not quite sorrow, not quite rage, not quite terror but a tation of an American dream that’s always bigger than bit of all of them, a grief of the soul. IT’S A its dreamer, and Welles meant to confirm that dream For Stewart’s performance alone, It’s WONDERFUL LIE The George Bailey-less while also questioning it at every moment. Like his crea Wonderful Life deserves its place Pottersville in the 1946 ation itself, he flirted with American madness so as to among the angels and all the heavenly classic is more human feel American rapture. bells that ring for them. than prim Bedford Falls.

40 L A M AG.C OM

I L LUS T R AT E D B Y C H R I S T OP H E R H UGH E S

SEVEN HOLIDAY CONCERTS AT WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL 2 PERFORMANCES !

TUE DEC 14 8PM

A Chanticleer Christmas ®

The beloved Grammy -winning “orchestra of voices” returns with a signature program.

SAT DEC 18 11:30AM & 2:30PM

Holiday Sing-Along Melissa Peterman, host John Sutton, conductor • Angeles Chorale Raise your voice and your spirit in this annual tradition that offers fun, cheer, and a whole lot of music.

2 PERFORMANCES!

TUE DEC 21 8PM

SAT DEC 11 8PM SUN DEC 12 2PM

Arturo Sandoval Big Band Swinging Holiday

Home Alone in Concert

It’s a jumping, jiving, jingling night at Walt Disney Concert Hall when the Grammy®winning trumpeter and his Big Band deck seasonal songs in Latin jazz styling.

Los Angeles Philharmonic David Newman, conductor John WILLIAMS Home Alone in Concert The LA Phil performs John Williams’ score at two special screenings of the holiday classic. © 1990 Twentieth Century Fox

FRI DEC 17 8PM

CeCe Winans One of gospel’s biggest-ever stars gives a holiday performance.

WED DEC 22 8PM

The Doo Wop Project The six-man singing group brings style and panache to holiday songs from throughout the years.

2 PERFORMANCES !

FRI DEC 31 7PM & 10:30PM

New Year’s Eve with Pink Martini featuring China Forbes Count down to 2022 in style with Portland’s celebrated “little orchestra.”

Get Your Tickets Today! laphil.com/deckthehall | 323 850 2000 Groups (10+) 323 850 2050 | Programs, artists, prices, and dates subject to change.

T H E AT E R

FULL CIRCLE

The musical’s 1971 Broadway cast lets the sun shine in.

A Hair-Raising Finale in L.A.

THE LEGENDARY IMPRESARIO WHO L AUNCHED THE SCANDALOUS ’60S MUSICAL UNVEILS HIS L AST PRODUC TION OF THE SHOW IN THE VALLE Y BY ZIA WESLEY

O N N OV E M BE R 2 6 ,

Michael Butler, the original producer of Hair on Broadway, turns 95. During the past 54 years, Butler has overseen 31 productions of Michael what is still subtitled Butler “The American Tribal Love-Rock Musical”; on December 4, his next— and ﬁnal—production opens at the El Portal Theatre in North Hollywood. “This could be the best production of 42 L A M AG.C OM

Hair I’ve ever done,” Butler says. Mostly, everyone knows Hair as the ﬁrst Broadway musical with nudity—even though it lasted less than a minute of the two-hour running time—which prompted many cities to attempt to ban the show and led to dozens of lawsuits in which Butler almost always prevailed. But nudity was only one of its many ﬁrsts: long before Lin-Manuel Miranda, a Black female actor donned a top hat every

night as Abe Lincoln and recited a mock Gettysburg Address while a blond, white girl shined her shoes. Hair’s actors played openly gay and lesbian characters while transgender and bisexuality were portrayed as equally “normal.” Dozens of unknown young actors graduated from Hair to stardom, including Diane Keaton, Donna Summer, Ben Vereen, Philip Michael Thomas, and Keith Carradine. The show’s songs remain pop-culture standards. “The first time I saw the show, I saw what it could be,” Butler says. “It had the ability to present tolerance, peace, and love in a way that made it possible even for intolerant people to get. It changed a lot of minds.” At the time, in 1967, Butler, who’s bisexual—his lovers included Rock Hudson, Candice Bergen, Audrey Hepburn, and Tyrone Power—was being groomed to run for the U.S. Senate with the backing of Bobby Kennedy and other high-level Democrats. Despite his conservative upbringing in suburban Chicago (his wealthy family owned Butler Aviation), Butler rarely played by the rules and walked away from the Senate race even though he was favored in the polls; instead, he staked his fortune on producing after seeing the nascent Hair in one of its off-Broadway productions. As Hair exploded, Butler became the first musical producer to have 12 productions selling out nightly around the world. Broadway’s old guard was infuriated by Hair’s mega success and its upstart producer. “Most of them hated me and the show,” he says. “One of the first things they did was to change the dates of the Tony Awards so we couldn’t qualify.” (Hair was ultimately nominated for Best Musical and Best Director.) Now in his fifth decade of producing the musical that profoundly changed his life, Butler insists that its relevance is undimmed. “Our planet needs Hair now more than ever. If we don’t begin to focus on helping rather than destroying one another, we’re doomed.”

C EN T R A L P R E S S/G E T T Y I M AG E S

Incoming

Cannabis & CBD Gift Guide THE BEST CANNABIS GIFTS FOR EVERYONE ON YOUR HOLIDAY LIST

Juna CBD

Ice Kream Dispensary

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Juna’s CBD is science-backed and specially formulated to help achieve more stage 3, deep sleep where your cells renew. All products HYL VYNHUPJ HUK YK WHY[` [LZ[LK MVY Lѝ JHJ` HUK W\YP[` VM Nightcap users report deeper sleep and lowered stress levels. juna-world.com/sleep

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Incoming

HAPPENINGS

THE TO-DO LIST

YOUR DECEMBER CULTUR AL AGENDA

BY JORDAN RIEFE

T H E B OYS A R E BAC K I N T OW N

› There’s an army coming to L.A.—the BTS army, whose members, still recovering from the cancellation of the septet’s Map of the Soul tour earlier this year, have explicit license to shake their bodies at the kickoff of the Permission to Dance on Stage tour. It’s the ﬁrst time BTS has performed before a live audience since 2019, so expect the erstwhile Bangtan Boys to feature chart-toppers like the Coldplay collaboration, “My Universe,” and, natch, the tour’s namesake hit single, the band’s second collaboration with Ed Sheeran. The “Permission to Dance” and “Butter” singles, BTW, made BTS the ﬁrst artists in 11 years to top the Billboard Hot 100 and Songs of the Summer charts with different songs. SoFi Stadium, November 27-December 2.

S M O O T H A S “B U T T E R”

C O N A RT I S T S

› Now in its tenth year, L.A. Comic Con returns

YO U NG L OV E

› At 76, Neil Young keeps on rockin’ in the free world with Barn, his 46th album. “These are . . . new songs and feelings after what our world has been through and continues to face,” Young writes. December 10, Reprise Records. 44 L A M AG.C OM

with its usual miasma of comics, gaming, sciﬁ, horror, collectibles, art, and apparel. Rub elbows with The Dark Knight creator Frank Miller, along with Zachary Levi (Shazam!), Tom Welling (Smallville), and Giancarlo Esposito (The Mandalorian). December 3-5, South Park.

SE X RE DU X

› You wish they’d bring

back Sex and the City— And Just Like That . . . they did! The ten-episode revival stars original cast members Sarah Jessica Parker, Cynthia Nixon, and Kristin Davis—but no Kim Cattrall— navigating life after 50. December, HBO Max.

LIVE AC T UA L LY

› Why not a live version of the 2003 Xmas ﬁlm Love Actually ? With hits like “Christmas Is All Around” and “The Trouble with Love Is,” plus a stellar cast, you can’t go wrong. Love Actually Live

at the Wallis, November 27December 31.

BY D I C K E NS

› The Old Vic’s Tony-

winning production of A Christmas Carol arrives in L.A. with Bradley Whitford playing Ebenezer Scrooge and Kate Burton as the Ghost of Christmas Past in this internationally acclaimed reinterpretation of the Dickens classic. Ahmanson Theatre, November 30-January 1. —J . R .

B T S : T H E C H O S U N I L B O J N S / I M A Z I N S V I A G E T T Y I M A G E S ; A N D J U S T L I K E T H AT . . .: C O U R T E S Y H B O M A X

BTS at a 2021 press gaggle to promote their latest album and single.

C E L E B R AT I O N

ANIMAL AT T R AC T I O N

Elf on the Shelf’s Magical Holiday Journey

This year’s L.A. Zoo Lights will feature illuminated creatures and a brand new LED light show.

N OV E M B E R 5 – JA N UA RY 2

Creative director David Korins (Hamilton, Dear Evan Hansen) has worked to transform the Fairplex into the North Pole. Last year, the event’s inaugural run was a drive-through affair; this year, attendees will get to explore the magical elﬂand by foot and trolley. $20–$50, 1101 E. W. McKinley Ave., Pomona, elfontheshelfjourney.com.

L.A. Zoo Lights N OV E M B E R 1 9 – JA N UA RY 9

CHRISTMAS: THE COMEBACK LAST YEAR, MANY OF THE CITY’S BELOVED WINTER EVENTS WERE CANCELED. BUT NOW THEY’RE BACK AND BRIGHTER THAN EVER B Y S E A N F I T Z - G E R A L D

Enchanted Forest of Light

The Nutcracker Suite

N OV E M B E R 2 1 – JA N UA RY 9

N OV E M B E R 2 6 – D E C E M B E R 24

After a one-year hiatus, Descanso Gardens’ illuminated extravaganza is back with an exciting new addition: glass houses, courtesy of kaleidoscopic sculptor Tom Fruin. $25–$35, 1418 Descanso Dr., La Cañada Flintridge, descansogardens.org.

Not your usual Nutcracker, American Contemporary Ballet’s one-hour performance is immersive and favors the dark vision of the original story by E. T. A. Hoffmann.

N OV E M B E R 1 9 – JA N UA RY 9

Gone is Kidspace’s usual five-day Snow Days celebration, and in its wake is this seven-week upgrade, with a nearly 1,000-square-foot sockskating rink, a faux ice fishing activity, and a Rose Parade-inspired float-building workshop. $15 (plus $5 for the rink), 480 N. Arroyo Blvd., Pasadena, kidspacemuseum.org. 46 L A M AG . C O M

DECEMBER 5

Cap off your holiday with the Skirball Cultural Center’s afternoon fest, where little ones can enjoy sing-alongs and make their own lanterns. Parents can gorge on latkes, sufganiyot, and cocktails called Drambuie Dreidels while listening to the tunes of klezmer group Yale Strom and Hot Pstromi. $13–$18 (includes timed-entry to Star Trek: Exploring New Worlds exhibit), 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Brentwood, skirball.org.

Home Alone in Concert

A brightly lit Reggie the Alligator, a magical disco-ball forest, and, new this year, an LED light show near the reptile house, all provide festive selﬁe fodder. Also, there will be cocktails. $15–$24, 5333 Zoo Dr., Griffith Park, lazoo.org.

Winter Frolic

Hanukkah Festival

Alamitos Bay N OV E M B E R 2 6 – JA N UA RY 4

Grab a rental from Long Beach Waterbikes and check out the 68 Christmas trees ﬂoating in Alamitos Bay, El Dorado Pond, and Colorado Lagoon. $30 for a one-hour waterbike rental, 164 N. Marina Dr., Long Beach, lbwaterbikes.com.

D E C E M B E R 1 1 –1 2

Scratch your nostalgia itch with a screening of the Christmas classic at Walt Disney Concert Hall. As Kevin McCallister sets his traps, the L.A. Phil will perform John Williams’s masterful score live. $55–$187, 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, laphil.com.

But it’s still familyfriendly. $25–$125, 926 N. Sycamore Ave., Sixth ﬂoor, Hollywood Media District, acbdances.com.

Holiday Road D E C E M B E R 3 –3 1

In the 1920s, King Gillette (yes, the razor guy, and that’s his real name) bought alot of idyllic land in the Santa Monica Mountains and turned it into an eponymous ranch. In the last few years, it’s become the site of this elaborate illuminated trek, which features a one-kilometerlong gingerbread lane, an elf village, and a very Instagrammable neon tunnel. Drinks from Blitzen’s Bar and food-truck grub will also be on offer. $35$65, 26800 Mulholland Hwy., Calabasas, holidayroadusa.com.

Kuumba Makers Festival DECEMBER 18

To prep for Kwanzaa, the California African American Museum will practice the sixth principle of the holiday: the commitment to creativity known as Kuumba. Visitors can enjoy crafts and yoga, then check out the museum’s growing collection. Free, 600 State Dr., Exposition Park, caamuseum.org.

L.A. ZOO LIGHTS AND WINTER FROLIC: JAMIE PHAM; NUTCRACKER: VICTOR DEMARCHELIER; HOME ALONE IN CONCERT: COURTESY L.A. PHIL

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N E I G H B O R H O O D WAT C H

Wild About West Adams

ONE OF L. A .’S OLDEST AND ONCE MOST FASHIONABLE NEIGHBORHOODS IS BLOWING UP AGAIN B Y M E R L E G I N S B E R G

H E N I T WA S F I R S T DE V E L OP E D in the late 1800s,

West Adams established itself as one of L.A.’s distinguished addresses. Delighting in its proximity to downtown, wealthy businessmen built grand Victorians and stately Craftsman houses on its wide streets. Then, in the 1940s, the demographics shifted as white residents headed west and notable African Americans such as Gone with the Wind Oscar winner Hattie MacDaniel moved in. Construction of the Santa Monica Freeway in the 1950s, though, ripped the thriving area in half and led affluent Black families to emigrate to Baldwin Hills and beyond. Decades of economic decline followed. But in recent years, West Adams has seen a resurgence, thanks to its beauty, its central location, the expansion of the subway system, and, until recently, its somewhat reasonably priced homes (houses that listed for $600,000 just a few years ago are now $1 million-plus). The neighborhood’s gentriﬁcation has been cause for concern for decades, but some longtime locals embrace it. “Gentriﬁcation can be positive if you improve the neighborhood and don’t want to change it,” says Terrell Tilford, who owns the Band of Vices galleries, which focuses on the work of Black artists. Restaurateur Bill Chait, known for hits Bestia and République, is betting big on the area: he recently opened the noodle bar Mian on the neighborhood’s bustling thoroughfare, West Adams Boulevard, and has plans to soon debut an outpost of Tartine there. “It’s a rebirth,” he says. “It’s now all about the south of the city.” Check it out.

Johnny’s

In 2020, wunderchef Danny Elmaleh reopened the 60-yearold icon Johnny’s Pastrami, which had closed in 2015. The menu still features plenty of greasy pastrami, but now it comes on Tartine bread. The good times continue at the adjacent bar, and, between the structures, there’s live music on Friday nights. » 4327 West Adams Blvd., johnnyswestadams.com.

48 L A M AG.C OM

Alsace L.A.

This 48-room boutique hotel, opened in September, features a pool, a stunning courtyard destined to be a favorite among media types on the make, and chic design throughout, courtesy of Brooklyn’s Home Studios. A ramen bar from the enterprising Elmaleh, who owns and runs Mizlala down the street and the nearby Johnny’s, is on the horizon. » 5170 West Adams Blvd., alsacehotella.com.

Runway Boutique

Fatima Dodson describes her aesthetic as “Afrocentric, carefree, bohemian fashionforward goodness.” She curates a delightful mix of new and vintage items, from cool costume jewelry, vintage handbags, and one-ofa-kind hats to giant sunglasses, headwraps, and ﬂowy linen dresses. » 4755 West Adams Blvd., shoprunwayboutiquela.com.

4 Miàn

This offshoot of Chengdu Taste in the San Gabriel Valley has a menu packed with spicy, tongue-tingling Sichuan delights. “The peppercorns numb your mouth like cocaine,” says Bill Chait. Chill out with a glass of cold, sweet mung-bean tea. » 5263 West Adams Blvd., miantaste.com.

N/SOTO: ALICIA CH O

Kneeland Co. Rarities

Joanna Williams’s home-goods store is rife with treasures from her travels— Bulgarian bowls to jewelry from India’s Gem Palace. “The important thing,” says Williams, who has consulted for several international fashion brands, “is to show pieces by artists and craftspeople that are not widely accessible.” » 4767 West Adams Blvd., kneelandco.com.

Band of Vices

Opened last year, Terrell Tilford’s 4,800-squarefoot, pink-hued gallery is all about inclusiveness, from artists to buyers to viewers. The last show, “C11H17N03”—the chemical compound for mescaline—featured 26 artists, some local, some from as far away as Ghana. “It’s about the relationship,” says Tilford. “I want this neighborhood of predominantly Black and brown people to come in and see reﬂections of themselves.” » 5351 West Adams Blvd., bandofvices.com.

P H O T O G R A P H E D B Y WA Y N E N A T H A N

n/soto

Niki Nakayama and Carol Lida-Nakayama’s twoMichelin-starred n/naka has long been one of L.A.’s most coveted reservations. Now the chefs are expanding with the more casual n/soto. “Carol and I always entertained doing an izakaya but never really wanted to jump in because n/naka takes so much from us. But we came across this wonderful location,” Niki Nakayama says. “It just felt like everything was a little meant-to-be.” » 456 W. Washington Blvd., n-soto.com. L A M AG.C OM 49

Incoming

W H E R E T O E AT N OW

New & Notable Horses

H O L LY WO O D

O Acclaimed young chefs Liz Johnson and Will Aghajanian have brought fresh life—and a buzzy $27 burger —to the old Ye Coach & Horses space. 7617 W. Sunset Blvd., horsesla.com.

Pocha

H I G H L A N D PA R K

Chef Rodrigo Oliveira has brought the cheesy tapioca fries he’s known for São Paolo to L.A.

Southern Exposure

AT DTL A'S CABOCO, A STAR CHEF TAKES BR AZILIAN FOOD TO DELICIOUS NEW PL ACES B Y H A I L E Y E B E R

A B O C O I S A Brazilian restaurant, but that doesn’t mean it’s an all-you-can-eat, meat-on-skewers situation. The chefs are quick to note it’s not a churrascaria. “We want to present a new Brazilian cuisine,” says Rodrigo Oliveira, one of South America’s most acclaimed toques. “Our desire is to show how diverse our culture and ingredients are.” Sure, there is some grilled meat on the menu, but you’ll also ﬁnd a take on the Brazilian couscous casserole known as cuscuz paulista, elevated with uni and quail eggs. A vegan version of the ﬁsh stew moqueca is surprisingly rich and complex, made with cashew fruit, hearts of palm, and plantains. All the 50 L A M AG.C OM

food pairs well with cachaça, the Brazilian liquor distilled from sugarcane. The restaurant plans to have the largest collection of the spirit in North America. “Like wine, there are tons of flavor profiles and regions,” enthuses Oliveira’s business partner and fellow chef, Victor Vasconcellos. Both men are natives of São Paulo. Oliveira rose to acclaim after he took over his family’s modest store in a working-class neighborhood in 2002. He transformed it into Mocotó, a vibrant culinary destination that has garnered a Michelin Bib Gourmand award and a place on Latin America’s 50 Best Restaurants list. He’s eschewed offers to open in fancier parts of his hometown, instead focusing on community efforts. He recently created an organization that provided 80,000 meals to the hungry during the pandemic. Caboco has been in the works for several years, and it was originally planned for West Hollywood or Hollywood, but Oliveira is thrilled that it ultimately landed amid the gritty beauty of downtown L.A. “It’s not the first place investors would think of, just like our places in São Paulo,” he says. “It’s big, chaotic, diverse, and cosmopolitan.” 1850 Industrial St., Arts District, cabocola.com.

Loam

FA S H I O N D I S T R I C T

O The Ace Hotel’s new all-day restaurant offers up vegetableforward fare—pea pancakes with coconut yogurt, carrot halvah, cocktails made with a beet shrub—but you can also grab a steak. 927 S. Broadway, loamdtla.com.

PHOTOGR A PH E D BY DY L A N + J EN I

B E E T C O C K TA I L : C A M E R O N S T R A N D

PERFECT SQUAR E S

O Opened by two native Angelenos, this modern Mexican eatery has a welcoming vibe, easy parking, plenty of margaritas, and vibrant dishes, some with unexpected twists. A memorable shrimp ceviche features habaneros in toasted sesame oil, while a deconstructed burrito swaps in a crepe for a tortilla. 6101 York Blvd., pochala.com.

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BOOK SOUP Book Soup is a world-famous bookstore located on the Sunset Strip in West Hollywood. Founded in 1975, the store boasts an expertly curated selection of books, signed and limited-edition collections, vinyl, toys, and unique gifts. booksoup.com

Incoming

H O L I DAY S S E A S O NA L A M USE M E N TS

Chefs Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee’s favorite Christmas tradition is Disneyland and Chinese food.

A LATKE TO LOVE

FROM CONVENTIONAL TO ATYPICAL, POTATO PANCAKE OPTIONS ABOUND

City of Delights NOSHING ALL THE WAY, L.A.’S TOP CHEFS SHARE THEIR FAVORITE FESTIVE SPOTS FOR EATING AND DRINKING B Y H E AT H E R P L AT T

A TOASTY GATHERING C H E F C H A R L E S Namba

of beloved Eastside Japanese joints Ototo and Tsubaki carries on a tradition that has been part of his family’s Christmas Day celebration for years: hitting the Club Bar at the elegantly decorated Peninsula Hotel (9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, peninsula.com). “My parents, [my partner] Courtney, my brothers and their families head over around 11 a.m., after their kids have opened presents, to eat bar snacks and drink cocktails. I usually go with a glass of champagne or a martini, and my dad always has an oldfashioned.” says Namba, who grew up in L.A. 52 L A M AG . C O M

“The lobby is decked out—a white Christmas tree, presents, lights. It’s very festive.”

A DRINK AND A SHOW W H E N S U Z A N N E Tracht

gets the chance to step away from her classic Beverly Grove restaurant, Jar, during the busy holiday season, she loves to catch a show at the Coronet (366 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Grove, largo-la.com). “It’s the best time to go to the theater,” she enthuses, noting a particularly great Tig Notaro show she caught around the holiday one year. “I get dressed up for a change and wear a dramatic long coat.” Before or after the show, she goes next door to the Roger Room (370 N.

La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Grove, therogerroom.com) for negronis or one of the seasonal cocktails on offer. “The bartenders make a mean drink.”

AN OUTING AND OYSTERS T H O U G H M A R G A R I TA

Kallas-Lee and Phillip Frankland Lee are quite busy these days with their growing restaurant empire—it includes Sushi |Bar and the recently Michelin-starred Pasta |Bar—the couple make a point of carving out time for a trip to Disneyland during the holidays. “It’s one of our favorite things to do, and it’s even more magical during the holidays,” said Kallas-Lee. After a long day at the park, they refuel at their favorite Chinese restaurant in all of L.A., Full House Seafood (963 N. Hill St., Chinatown, fullhouse seafood.com). “They have the best pan-fried oysters in black bean sauce and are open super late,” says Frankland Lee. “There’s no better way to end the day, and it’s a must during the holidays.”

the Hanukkah latke involves shredded potatoes bound together with egg and fried in oil. But, like a classic cocktail, the simplicity of the dish enables endless variations. At Mort and Betty’s, a weekly popup at Smorgasburg (@mortandbettys on Instagram), you’ll find vegan, glutenfree latkes made with sweet potatoes and parsnips and topped with persimmon jam. Akasha (9543 Culver Blvd., Culver City, akasharestaurant.com) serves a more savory variation: a perfect brunch plate of latkes with smoked salmon. The Israeli pop-up B’Ivrit (@bivritla) offers aruk, an extracrispy Iraqi-style latke made with mashed — instead of shredded — potatoes, along with parsley, green onions, and tahini. Enjoy the flavor-packed variation on its own or in a pita sandwich. New deli Wise Sons (9552 Washington Blvd, Culver City, wisesonsdeli.com) serves a traditional plate of latkes with sour cream and apple sauce (below). But for Hanukkah it’s also offering a make-yourown “Latke Meets Reuben” platter. It included corned beef, swiss cheese, Russian dressing, sauerkraut, dill pickles and latkes. It isn’t kosher, but it’s definitely delicious. — OREN PELEG

P H I L I P L E E A N D M A R G A R I TA K A L L A S - L E E : L I A M B R OW N ; C H A R L E S N A M B A : OTOTO ; S U Z A N N E T R AC H T: A N N E F I S H B E I N ; L AT K E : M O L LY D E CO U D R E AU X

O At its most basic,

PROMOTION

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ACME REAL ESTATE T H E T R E N DSE T T E RS O F R E N OVAT I O N R ESA L E I N LOS A NG ELES

emember the moment in 2011 when you started to look at real estate again? Foreclosures and short sales were driving prices down, your friends had horror stories about buying high and selling low, real estate agents across the city were declaring their new career choice. But you started to see some really cute properties at an affordable price in LA neighborhoods you never knew existed. There was a clearing in the market. From that clearing, ACME Real Estate emerged. Driven by a love of affordable design and a deeply-rooted belief in the transformational power of accessible housing, ACME opened its eastside headquarters and began the task of inventing how to reshape the way buyers could see properties again--it was a reimagining of trust in a market that had publicly failed. Buyers wanted security. ACME delivered on that dream. Lead by tattooed and outspoken powerhouse broker/owner, Courtney Poulos, a 16-year-veteran of the real estate business, author of “Break Up! With Your Rental!”, Poulos and her hand-selected team set out to up the marketing stakes.

photography, representing the essence of the holistic lifestyle quality of a home. No home is just “a listing.” ACME offerings have come to symbolize how buyers want to live. “We hunted for undiscovered photographers and coached them how to shoot in a way that delivers an experience. When we started, no one was doing ‘vignette’ shots for properties under a million dollars! Sellers weren’t staging and when they did, it was out of touch with the vibe of the buying public. I’m humbled to see many of the photographers and stagers we discovered early on exploding throughout the city! It’s wild.”

Silke Fernald and Dominique Madden, Broker Associates now managing the office at West Adams, are leading the charge. Remarks Madden, “From day one, ACME and its agents strive to set the highest standard in regards to market approach and client representation. Every agent receives one-on-one training and mentorship from industry vets with three decades of experience collectively to arm them with the tools to navigate the hottest housing market in the world with grace and consciousness.” “The ACME experience is like high-end boutique shopping! Our clients get an enthusiastic and attentive agent who genuinely cares. It’s that first-class attitude to representation that makes all the difference. Our buyers have lovingly coined the term ‘ACME house’ The word on the street is ‘I want to buy an ACME house!’ That tells you a lot about the impact we make and continue making on the real estate market. High-level service, integrity, and ethics are mandates,” asserts Fernald.

“THE ACME EXPERIENCE IS LIKE HIGH-END BOUTIQUE SHOPPING! OUR CLIENTS GET AN ENTHUSIASTIC AND ATTENTIVE AGENT WHO GENUINELY CARES.”

“I saw our industry giving up. MLS printouts at the open houses, agents disinterested in the clientele. The houses were either cheaply remodeled or not even shot professionally. It wasn’t good enough,” explains Poulos. Poulos and her small team, now a 46-agent brokerage with two offices and an expansion brokerage in Central Florida, hired best-in-class graphic designers, generating magazine-quality brochures with emotive architectural

As prices have gone up, competitors and imitators have picked up on the magic sauce that make ACME houses so distinctive in the market. ACME continues to innovate, bringing respectful design to every neighborhood it touches, focusing on inclusion in leadership and recruitment, intensifying the training, investing more energy and effort in the quality of ACME agents and delivering a superior client experience, paying close attention to that “IT” factor that is not replicable.

Concludes Poulos, “There is no better home for invention in real estate marketing and sales than ACME. We know the value we bring to the table -- over a decade of marketing for sellers the exact homes that buyers are buying right now. It’s no accident that our listings are the most popular in the market. It’s a methodology, and we see only growth on the horizon.” ACME can be found online at www.acme-re.com, on Instagram at @acmerealestate. Offices are located in Eagle Rock and West Adams. Break Up! With Your Rental is available at Barnes and Noble and Amazon.

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Gift Guide ’ T I S T H E S E ASON

Wrap It Up! THIS YEAR’S SLOWDOWNS HAVE TURNED US ALL INTO GRINCHES. OUR PATIENCE IS WANING, OUR END WITHIN INCHES. ARE YOU CHECKING YOUR LIST AND WORRYING YOUR HEAD? (HAVE YOU EMPTIED THE BOTTLE AND TAKEN TO BED?) RELAX! WE’VE SCOURED THE CITY, BOTH FAR AND NEAR, AND FOUND PERFECT GIFTS FOR THOSE WHO ARE DEAR

GETTY IMAGES/ISTOCKPHOTO

EDITED BY HAILEY EBER

CONTRIBUTORS SUSAN CAMPOS, SARAH FONES, MERLE GINSBERG & MELISSA SELEY

L A M AG . C O M 57

I FTS H O L I D AY G

Gear

E-BIKES, IMACS, CUSTOM CASES: THE COOLEST GIFTS REALLY TAKE THEM PLACES

O Made by Super73

O This compact version

in Irvine, this e-bike is street-legal and has the curb appeal of a motorcycle—no special license required. S2, $2,695 at super73.com.

of the popular Theragun massager promises the same muscle relief at a fraction of the price. Mini, $199 at therabody.com.

WHEEL TIME

ALL EARS

O A former Apple designer has created a speaker that generates amazingly immersive sound. Syng Cell Alpha, $1,799 at Common Wave Hi-Fi, 1451 E. 4th St., Ste. 106, downtown, commonwave.net.

HUE AGAIN

O Even the tech world

is nostalgic for the ’90s. Apple’s colorful new desktops are a happy blast from the past. iMac, from $1,299 at apple.com. 58 L A M AG . C O M

SMALL WONDER

RENEW AND IMPROVED

O Get documents in order with a stylish case that can be monogrammed for an additional cost. Passport case, $115 at Clare V., locations at clarev.com.

TRUE COLORS

O Banish airport carousel

confusion. Roam lets customers design their own suitcase, choosing unique shades for the body, trim, and wheels. Roam suitcases, from $495 at roamluggage.com.

1 : CO U RT E SY O F S U P E R 73 ; 2 : CO U RT E SY O F CO M M O N WAV E H I - F I ; 3 : CO U RT E SY O F A P P L E ; 4 : CO U RT E SY O F T H E R A B O DY; 5 : CO U RT E SY O F C L A R E V. ; 6 : CO U RT E SY O F R OA M

I FTS H O L I D AY G

Home

O Psychotherapist

O Forgo the ﬂow-

Esther Perel’s board game encourages players to share secrets, with cards bearing prompts like “A phone number I need to delete.” Where Should We Begin: A Game of Stories, $40 at estherperel.com.

ers, and gift a funky, feathery plant in a beautifully textured pot instead. Large Portal planter, $37, and ponytail palm, $24, at Folia Collective, 5052 Eagle Rock Blvd., Eagle Rock, foliacollective.com.

O This modular concrete

O Beloved for its out-

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FROM CHIC CANDLES TO A THROW THAT’S THE MOST, A REALLY GREAT HOSTESS DESERVES MORE THAN A TOAST

FLAME ON

menorah miraculously allows you to create a centerpiece in whatever shape you choose. $90 at Getty Center museum store, 1200 Getty Center Dr., Brentwood, shop.getty.edu.

LIGHT IT UP

O Real gold trim makes this bold candle really shine. L’Objet evil eye candle, $145 at Neiman Marcus, 9700 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, neimanmarcus.com.

GO GREEN

SOFTER SIDE

door blankets, Rumpl is now sleeping inside with a chic throw that proves wool can be wonderfully snuggly, not itchy. Merino Soft Wool Blanket in Paciﬁc, $199 at rumpl.com.

WELL-ROUNDED

O Hand-carved in India,

this semiprecious stone vessel is available in diameters ranging from two to seven inches. Amethyst bowl, from $48 at yaliving.com.

BOTTLED UP

1 : CO U RT E SY O F E ST H E R P E R E L ; 2 : CO U RT E SY O F G E T T Y STO R E ; 3 : CO U RT E SY O F N E I M A N M A R C U S ; 4 : CO U RT E SY O F T I M C L A R K E S U P P LY; 5 : CO U RT E SY O F FO L I A CO L L E C T I O N ; 6 : CO U RT E SY O F R U M P L ; 7 : CO U RT E SY O F YA L I V I N G

O This fun alternative

to a pitcher looks twice as pricey as it is. Glass water bottle and glasses, $36 at Tim Clarke Supply, 2630 Pico Blvd., timclarkesupply.com.

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L A M AG . C O M 59

I FTS H O L I D AY G

Food & Drink A PIZZA OVEN, A GOOD GIN, AND OTHER COZY DELIGHTS WILL KEEP THEM WARM ON THOSE COLD (FOR L.A.) WINTER NIGHTS

SOFT SELL

O The city now has a

4 3

BETTER THAN DELIVERY

O Ooni’s latest burns

KINDRED SPIRITS

wood, charcoal, or gas and is the ﬁrst home pizza oven to be certiﬁed by the True Neapolitan Pizza Association. Karu 16 Multi-Fuel Pizza Oven, $799 at ooni.com.

O A bottle of made-in-

L.A. Future Gin and a handblown glass from the trendy home-goods purveyor Upstate make for a perfect pairing. Gift set, $130 at futuregin.com.

RIPE DREAM

SWEET VIEW

O Local chocolatier

O Forget fancy pears.

Oishii’s pristine strawberries, grown from an extra-sweet Japanese varietal—are now being grown locally. Omakase Berries, $50 at Destroyer, 3578 Hayden Ave., Culver City, destroyer.la.

Compartés offers up treats that are almost— but not quite—too beautiful to eat. Large Wave gift box, $75 at compartes.com.

7 6

HOT STUFF

O This stunning kettle

comes in an array of chic colors and features variable temperature control. Stagg EKG Electric Kettle, $189 at fellowproducts.com.

COUNTER ARGUMENT

O This collab between

Italian appliance maker Smeg and Dolce & Gabbana makes a strong case for keeping kitchen gadgets out of cabinets and in full view. Stand mixer, $1,500 at william-sonoma.com. 6 0 L A M AG . C O M

1 : CO U RT E SY O F AC I D L E AG U E ; 2 : F U T U R E G I N : SA R A H D E R H E I M ; 3 : CO U RT E SY O F CO M PA RT E S ; 4 : CO U RT E SY O F O O N I ; 5 : CO U RT E SY O F O I S H I I ; 6 : CO U RT E SY O F F E L LOW; 7 : CO U RT E SY O F S M E G

store dedicated to nonalcoholic libations, and this Gewürtztramineresque sipper is one of the shop’s top picks. Proxies Pastiche by Acid League, $28 at Soft Spirits, 3208 ½ W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, softspirits.club.

You shouldn’t need sunscreen to relax in your sunroom. Graber’s new line of custom cellular shades are made with highly energy-efficient, UV-protective fabrics—so you can lounge all day.

Find a Graber Expert near you at graberblinds.com

I FTS H O L I D AY G

Fashion 2

O Louis Vuitton’s pink

O With a sweater-

shades are a vision of retro glam. LV Link PM cat-eye sunglasses in rose, $735 at us.louisvuitton.com.

inspired knit stripe, this cozy pair is perfect for kicking back. Merino wool socks in Bristol blue, $22 at bombas.com.

WHAT A SEEN

FLOW WITH IT

O Whether she’s

HEAD GAMES

O Upgrade their cotton

O MB&F’s new titatium

cap to a winterworthy Harris Tweed. Bodega x New Era hat, $120 at Bodega, 1320 E. 7th St., Ste. 150, downtown, bdgastore.com.

PRECIOUS METTLE

take on one of its iconic, award-winning designs has a striking green base plate. Legacy Machine Perpetual EVO, $176,000 at westime.com.

O With a spike design

O A two-and-a-half-inch

O Made in L.A., this

heel and an ultrasoft leather upper make for the perfect compromise between chic and wearable. Beklina ribbed clogs in palm, $280 at beklina.com.

versatile wool-andleather bag can be worn around the waist or across the body. Bedford belt bag in sage, $178 at graf-lantz.com.

BALANCING ACT

brunching or beaching, a vibrantly striped georgette frock from L.A.’s Julia Clancey is the perfect vibe. Lady Tropicana kaftan, $295 at juliaclancey.com.

STRONG ARM

TOE THE LINE

in 18-carat rose gold, this limited edition cuff is pretty in punk. Clash de Cartier bracelet, $13,200 at cartier.com.

HANDS-FREE

6 5

62 L A M AG . C O M

1 : CO U RT E SY O F LO U I S V U I T TO N ; 2 CO U RT E SY O F J U L I A C L A N C E Y; 3 : CO U RT E SY O F W E ST I M E ; 4 : CO U RT E SY O F B E K L I N A ; 5 : CO U RT E SY O F B O M B AS ; 6 : CO U RT E SY O F B O D E G A ; 7 : CO U RT E SY O F C A RT I E R ; 8 : CO U RT E SY O F G R A F L A N TZ

IT DOESN’T TAKE A BAUBLE THAT COSTS MORE THAN A CAR TO SHOW THEM HOW SPECIAL YOU FEEL THEY ARE. (BUT IT CERTAINLY DOESN’T HURT!)

9 9

O Love or hate Gwyneth,

O Peloton fanatics

this poplin blouse from her new G. Label Core collection is hard to resist. Tammie bow top, $375 at goop.com.

are sure to love this high-performing top from the company’s new apparel line. Sunrise Fade strappy bra, $56 at peloton.com.

9 : CO U R T E SY O F G O O P ; 1 0 : CO U R T E SY O F M A X M A R A ; 1 1 : CO U R T E SY O F G E A RYS ; 1 2 : CO U R T E SY O F R E E B O K ; 1 3 : CO U R T E SY O F P E LOTO N ; 1 4 : CO U R T E SY O F G U E S S ; 1 5 : CO U R T E SY O F G LO B ; 1 6 : CO U R T E SY O F R OW I N G B L A Z E R S

LADY IN RED

FIT TO BE TIED

BLING IT ON

a refreshing pop of color, no matter how you wear it. Silk twill scarf in multicolor, $135 at us.maxmara.com.

O A simple beaded

O A 1938 bracelet

O DTLA’s Glob recy-

inspired this elegant timepiece. Hermès Nantucket mother of pearl dial watch in rose gold, $11,300 at gearys.com.

cles plastic bottles to make these vibrant totes. Primary Shift Ripstop in slice, $32 at glob.land.

JOG YOUR MEMORY

O Affordable, ’70s-style

sneakers are a fun run. Classic leather legacy AZ shoe, $80 at reebok.com.

11 12

O This bold print adds

LINK AGAIN

EASY SPIN

strand provides just enough sparkle. Wrap line bracelet, $25 at guess.com.

NEW LIFE

TOP SCORE

O Handmade from

heavyweight cotton, this jersey is in a league of its own. ’70s stripe rugby in yellow, $195 at rowingblazers.com.

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L A M AG . C O M 63

I FTS H O L I D AY G

Beauty & Grooming

FROM FANCY PERFUME TO A GOOD BAR OF SOAP, SOMETIMES THE LITTLEST THINGS ARE THE MOST DOPE

O For the eco-conscious

O For men looking to

folks on your list, L.A.based Bite has launched an ingenious deodorant with a sleek metal case and cardboardpackaged reﬁlls. $44 at bitetoothpastebits.com.

up their skincare game without going into overtime, Oars + Alps’ affordable, unpretentious, natural products—like these soaps made with charcoal and blue algae—are sure winners. Exfoliating soap trio, $30 at oarsandalps.com.

SMELL YEAH

ZIP IT

O Hit the road with these

stylish, sustainable, and machine-washable travel pouches made from recycled water bottles. The vanity set, $175 at rothys.com.

GLOW ON

O With blush, bronzer,

and highlighter, this makeup palette is totally cheeky. Ambient Lighting Edit in Universe, $80 at hourglasscosmetics.com.

SOLID IDEA

O Get off the lotion bottle. Kate McLeod’s moisturizing “stones” quench dry skin without the waste—just glide them across your arms and legs. Plus, they come in an array of subtle but delightful fragrances. Body stones, $38 at katemcleod.com.

PORE BOYS

SMOOTH MOVES

O Another plastic-

free pick, this reﬁllable razor delivers an ultraclose shave and can be conﬁgured as a single- or multi-blade setup to best suit your skin. And it’s ultimately cheaper than using disposables. The Leaf Kit, $113 at leafshave.com.

NOSE JOB

O High-end-scent

hounds are hot for this new release from a renowned Istanbul perfumery. Featuring amber and leather notes, it’s suitable for any gender. Shem by Nishane, $490 at the Scent Bar, 7405 Beverly Blvd., Fairfax District, luckyscent.com.

64 L A M AG . C O M

1 : CO U RT E SY O F B I T E ; 2 : CO U RT E SY O F R OT H Y ’ S ; 3 : CO U RT E SY O F T H E S C E N T B A R ; 4 : CO U RT E SY O F H O U R G L ASS ; 5 : CO U RT E SY O F KAT E M C L E O D ; 6 : CO U RT E SY O F OA R S + A L P S ; 7 : CO U RT E SY O F L E A F S H AV E

lunya.co

GOOD IN BED

SLEEPWEAR FOR THE MODERN WOMAN

I FTS H O L I D AY G

Kids EVEN IF THEY’RE TOO OLD TO BELIEVE IN SAINT NICK, THEY’LL STILL LOVE HOT WHEELS OR REALLY COOL KICKS

O Sold as a pair, these

O The Iggy Peck,

O These shoes change

blingy hats are perfect for sharing between friends, siblings, or even mother and child. Snowball Fight beanie hat set, $43 at supersmalls.com.

NICE HAUL

BOOK IT

Architect author’s latest is an uplifting tale of artistic expression. Aaron Slater, Illustrator, $19 at Once Upon A Time, 2207 Honolulu Ave., Montrose, shoponceuponatime.com.

O These tractor-trailers

TOK STAR

have fun connective magnets for kids, plus a sleek design for parents. Hovers tractors, $55 at areaware.com

O This TikTok-famous,

doll can be turned inside out to change its color and expression. Reversible octopus plushie, $12 at teeturtle.com.

SNEAKY TRICKS

color when you ﬂip their sequins. Flip-kicks, $64 at skechers.com.

SHAKY TIMES

O Toddlers can’t

resist fruity fun instruments. Nino four-piece fruit shaker set, $29 at guitarcenter.com.

VIDEO STAR

O With a tripod, LED

light, and microphone, teens can take their vlogs to the next level. RØDE vlogger kit, $150 at bestbuy.com.

6 7

6 6 L A M AG . C O M

1 : CO U RT E SY S U P E R S M A L L S ; 2 : CO U RT E SY A R E AWA R E ; 3 : CO U RT E SY A B R A M S ; 4 : CO U RT E SY T E E T U RT L E ; 5 : CO U RT E SY S K E C H E R S ; 6 : CO U RT E S G U I TA R C E N T E R ; 7 : CO U RT E SY R O D E

SHINE ON

8 9

10 8

O This smart basket-

O Handcrafted in

ball and app allow players to practice their skills on their own. $60 at dribbleup.com.

Hungary, this vibrant retro backpack is an ideal size for kids. Ykra Scout, $68 at ykra.net.

O Lego’s latest lets kids

O This award-winning

use tiny pieces to create unique wall decor. Art Project Create Together, $120 at lego.com.

toy for ages one to ﬁve is a really sweet ride. Primo Ride On Kids Toy Classic, $200 at ambosstoys.com.

8 : CO U R T E SY D R I B B L E U P ; 9 : CO U R T E SY L E G O ; 1 0 : CO U R T E SY LO O G G U I TA R S ; 1 1 : CO U R T E SY R A Z E R ; 1 2 : CO U R T E SY Y K R A ; 1 3 : CO U R T E SY O F A M B O S STOYS ; 1 4 : CO U R T E SY WO N D E R & W I S E BY A SW E E TS

GAME ON

CONNECTED

STRING ALONG

O This tiny guitar comes

with ﬂash cards, an app, and Zoom lessons for easy learning. Loog Mini, $89 at loogguitars.com.

EAR AND NOW

O A cute Bluetooth

gaming headset is a purrfect gift for older kids. Razer Kraken BT Kitty Bluetooth headset, $150 at amazon.com.

BRIGHT STUFF

VIVA VESPA

INNER PEACE

OWith monkey bars,

a swing, a hoop, a slide, and more, this big-ticket item will keep preschoolers from climbing the walls when stuck inside. Stay-at-Home Play-atHome Gym, $849 at wonderandwise.com.

L A M AG . C O M 67

L.A. Stories

BY JASON MCGAHAN

The Trouble at Wi Spa A VIR AL VIDEO SHOT IN THE L ADIES’ LOCKER ROOM OF A TONY KOREAN BATHHOUSE SET OFF WEEKS OF SKIRMISHES AND A NATIONAL DEBATE OVER TR ANS RIGHTS—BUT NOBODY GOT THE REAL STORY

70 L A M AG.C OM

I F YOU W E R E to stick a pin in a map at

the precise location of the culture war’s current epicenter—the exact coordinates where the armies of wokedom and the forces of Trumpism are locked in their most heated battle—the unlikely spot you’d land on would be the corner of Wilshire and South Rampart boulevards, just east of K-Town. To be even more precise, a place called Wi Spa. Up until last summer, this upscale Korean bathhouse was mostly known to locals for its mineral salt massages and vitamin C facials. But one day last June, events unfolded here—and we’ll get to all the sordid details in just a bit, including who exposed his (or was it her?) penis to whom—that captured the national spotlight (Tucker Carlson certainly noticed) and triggered a series of Portland-like protests and counterprotests involving everyone from Antifa to militant trans activists to a preacher who once prayed at the White House with Donald Trump, ultimately leading to pitched battles in the streets, shattered storefronts, and scores of arrests. I L LUS T R AT E D B Y N E I L JA M I E S ON

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After all, it’s one thing to support Some of the specifics of the trigtrans rights by posting a pink-andgering event are still in dispute, blue flag on Facebook. It’s quite including the gender of the person at another to ask that women undress the center of the uproar—a 52-yearin a locker room next to a person old convicted sex offender named with a penis. Darren Agee Merager, a martyr to some, a pervert to others, and to just about everyone else, a Chauncey OF C OU R S E , FA C T S are not always Gardiner-like figure who seems to the same thing as truth, but as best have blundered into as Los Angeles can one of the most fraught make out, here they and controversial social are: On June 23, at “So, it’s OK arguments of our time: around 9:30 p.m., for a man namely, what defines Merager showed gender. Like a cultural up at the front desk to go into Rorschach test, both of Wi Spa and prethe women’s sides of this battle have sumably presented a section, show been constructing diadriver’s license indimetrically opposed cating that its holder his penis narratives by cherrywas female. After around the picking details that best paying the $30 fee other women— fit their agendas. What and filling out some young little really happened in that paperwork—includKorean bathhouse? ing a disclaimer girls, underWas it transphobia or advising customers to age—in your indecent exposure? The expect nudity inside— spa?” answer depends entirely the Wi Spa clerk on where your political handed Merager a day loyalties lie and which pass for the women’s facts you choose to believe. locker room and facilities. But beyond cultural tribalism, this Soon after arriving, Merager case cuts right to the bone of the trans stripped naked and took a dip in the debate, and not in vague and theowomen’s hot tub, located next to the retical terms, but in a real, intensely women’s locker room. That’s when personal, and in-your-face sense. the trouble started. Another patron, 72 L A M AG.C OM

P R E V I O U S PA G E : A L A M Y ; G E T T Y I M A G E S ; S H U T T E R S T O C K ; © R I N G O C H I U / Z U M A P R E S S W I R E ; S H E R I F F ’ S D E PA R T M E N T; I N S TA G R A M . C O M / S T I L L G R AY ; C U R E A M E R I C A Y O U T U B E ; T H I S PA G E : M A I N I M A G E : J E R E M Y L . Q U I N N ; T W I T T E R . C O M / S T I L L G R AY ; S H E R I F F ’ S D E PA R T M E N T

T R A N S M E T R O P O L I TA N

Police and protesters faced off during a July riot outside Wi Spa; a tweet from a right-wing socialmedia inﬂuencer helped stir up the storm.

a Black Hispanic female named Cubana Angel, was heard shouting from the jacuzzi area as another customer, an elderly Chinese woman, alerted the women in the locker room that trouble was afoot. “Miss Johnson is about,” is how she delicately put it. Within a few minutes, a small crowd of upset women and girls, wearing terry-cloth robes and shower shoes, fled the lockers and assembled at the front desk, where they complained to the attendant that “a man” had infiltrated the women’s area and was exposing “himself” in front of them. One woman who had brought her young daughter to the spa told the clerk it was the first time her child had seen a penis. Much of the ruckus at the front desk was caught on cell-phone video, which the next day, June 24, was posted on Cubana Angel’s Instagram feed. The footage showed the masked spa worker behind a plexiglass plate explaining to the irate crowd that the spa cannot legally discriminate against a trans woman. “So, it’s OK for a man to go into the women’s section, show his penis around the other women—young little girls, underage—in your spa?” Angel’s angry voice can be heard on the video. “Wi Spa condones that—is that what you’re saying?” When the clerk attempts to answer, stating something about “sexual orientation,” Angel grows even more agitated. “What orientation?” she interrupts, all but shouting. “I see a dick! It lets me know he’s a man. He’s a man. He is a man. He is not no female.” Within 24 hours, Angel’s video went viral, spreading to other platforms as the online hoi polloi—as well as some boldface names—began arguing over the incident. “I was killing time on Twitter, which I guess is redundant, and I saw a tweet from Patricia Arquette,” recalls Bennet Kelley, a Santa Monica lawyer who just happened to be relaxing at the spa on July 23 and witnessed the disturbance at the front desk. “And Arquette is saying that [the Angel video] is a hoax. And I’m like, ‘Um, no, it wasn’t a hoax. I was there.’ So I uploaded that it wasn’t a hoax, and my tweet goes viral, too. And suddenly people are saying that I’m

lying, that I’m part of the oppression, and that I’m anti-trans. It was all just so strange.” Arquette wasn’t the only one suggesting a hoax. In the days that followed, numerous news outlets— The Guardian, the L.A. Times, Slate, Insider—published pieces speculating that it was all a right-wing prank designed to stir up trouble for the trans community. The Los Angeles Blade, a local LGBTQ paper, went so far as to run an anonymous piece quoting an anonymous source claiming it was all a fraud. On the other side of the ideological chasm, the conservative media eagerly pounced on the story, believing every bit of it and even making up some facts, to boot. On June 28, Carlson aired a segment on the Wi Spa incident—the ﬁrst of seven Fox News reports on the controversy that would run over the following week—expressing outrage that “a biological male” had entered what he incorrectly described as Wi Spa’s “female kids’ section.” In any case, on June 29, a blogger named Jairo Rodriguez—a young, gay, anti-vaxxer Republican in Los Angeles with a small but devoted IG following—called for an “AntiPervert Protest” in front of Wi Spa for the following Saturday, July 3. In response, Southern California Antifa called for a counterprotest. “We ask all activists who are able to come out to join us this Saturday as we show that L.A. has no tolerance for transphobia,” the left-wing organization posted on Twitter. “SMASH TRANSPHOBIA. SMASH FASCISM.” There was smashing, all right, starting with Rodriguez. Video of the event shows him being knocked to the ground and pummeled by the black-clad Antifa forces after he tried to pepper spray them when they attempted to pull down his antitrans sign. Other videos of the rally show a group of mostly Hispanic evangelicals in “Trust Jesus” T-shirts being shoved and sucker punched by the Antifa counterprotesters, who vastly outnumbered the antitrans contingent. At around 11 a.m., reinforcements for Rodriguez’s side arrived as members of the white nationalist Proud Boys started showing up. But, like so much with this story, the battle lines became blurry.

One of the Proud Boys mistakenly confused a reporter from Newsmax, a right-wing, Trump-supporting outlet, for an Antifa agitator (the reporter was dressed in black) and clubbed him with a metal pipe. Another protester was stabbed during the mayhem, although it’s unclear which side of the melee the victim was on. The mayhem went on for hours. Police made no arrests. As it turned out, the July 3 event

was a mere dress rehearsal for a second rally—“Round 2 Wi Spa Anti Pedophilia Protest,” the far-right dubbed it—which took place on July 17. This time, the bathhouse was shuttered and surrounded by a line of police officers, but Antifa still managed to spray graffiti throughout the three blocks around the spa. About 500 of them turned up, far outnumbering the anti-trans group, but both sides were equally keyed up. There were also some gay activists waving

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pride flags and dancing to war drums in the street. But when riot-cop reinforcements arrived and began mobilizing on Wilshire, the protest exploded. The police were bombarded by smoke bombs and pellet-gun ammunition as protesters spit and screamed in officers’ faces and charged their lines with a six-foot flagpole streaming a transgender banner. (One protester in a pink wig pushed a female cop while calling her a “traitor bitch.”) In response, police fired 40-millimeter projectiles and beanbag rounds at the crowd. More than 40 arrests were made that day, and the authorities confiscated an armory’s worth of weapons, including knives, pepper spray, and stun guns. “I’ve seen police on horseback trample peaceful people and beat them with batons,” says a longtime Act Up veteran who was at the July 17 protest. “That was not the case here.” A N D N OW, A S BE S T as Los Angeles can make out, here is the truth: Pretty much every person in

this story is not entirely who they Angel’s Instagram feed projected appear to be. Take, for starters, Jairo an image of pious Christianity with Rodriguez. Yes, he’s the young, gay a touch of aspirational liberalism Republican who called (older posts called for for the first Wi Spa justice in the police anti-trans rally. But up killings of Ahmaud “He was until last May, just Arbery and Breonna a few months before Taylor). Since the masculine. the protest, Rodriguez incident, though, she’s A normal had been taken been transformed into dude, hair in in by TransLatin@ a steely-eyed and selfCoalition’s H.O.P.E. styled “avenging angel” a ponytail, House under the name who holds fiery press well-dressed of Sarah. Before that, he conferences alongside in a shirt was also a resident of her new spiritual adviand tie with a trans-housing unit at sor, Marc Little, the the L.A. LGBT Youth ultraconservative pasRolexes and a Center in Hollywood, tor who once prayed gold bracelet. where he was known to with Donald Trump The tasteful sometimes wear a womin the White House kind. Nothing an’s wig. Then there’s Cabinet Room and Cubana Angel, the Wi declared him, in front too showy.” Spa client who posted of news cameras, “the the cell-phone video best American presithat lit the fuse for the dent since Abraham whole conflagration. That’s not her Lincoln.” (Little is filing suit to overreal name. As of this writing, nobody turn California law permitting trans has yet figured out her true identity. people to use the bathroom of their Up until the Wi Spa incident, gender identity.)

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LIST

PROMOTION

Children’s Bureau’s President’s Invitational Golf Tournament Monday, September 27 Photo Credit: Reza Allahbakhshi Photography

The 39th Annual President’s Invitational Golf Tournament at Rolling Hills Country Club in Rolling Hills Estates set a record raising over $556,000 to support Children’s Bureau’s child abuse prevention and treatment programs thanks to the generosity of our attendees, sponsors, and donors. Stay tuned for future events. More info at all4kids.org Images from top: Corporate Foursome from Napean Capital Group; Winning Foursome from Gibson, Dunn & Crutcher.

15th Annual LAWineFest October 2 and 3 LAWineFest 2021 is in the books! Over 5,000 wine lovers joined us over the weekend and roamed the expansive waterfront park in Long Beach celebrating all things wine! Thank you to our sponsors, amazing wineries, breweries, food trucks, musicians, volunteers and attendees. We’re all looking forward to June 2022.

Photo Credit: William Kidston

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Photo Credit: Jim Donnelly

Then, of course, there’s Darren Merager himself—or herself, depending on what you believe—the Jacuzzi bather behind all the rioting and mayhem. Six-foot-two and 200 pounds, with shoulder-length brown hair, until recently Merager was identifying as a male, at least according to acquaintances. “He was masculine. A normal dude, hair in a ponytail, well-dressed in a shirt and tie or in sweats with Rolexes and a gold bracelet— the tasteful kind that isn’t too showy and looks expensive,” says Jay Nieto, a former associate. “And he could talk his way out of anything.” Well, almost anything. Merager has a long, checkered history with law enforcement, going back to the early ’90s, including a three-year sentence for vehicle theft. Merager escaped from prison in 1995, spent a couple months on the lam, was captured, and has been in and out of jail pretty much ever since. Arguably, Merager’s most dramatic caper was a 2012 heist at the Santa Monica home of a prominent bond trader in which Merager made off with tens of thousands of dollars’ worth of rare wines, luxury wristwatches, and paintings by famous artists like Piet Mondrian. For that crime, Merager got four years. Merager’s former friend Nieto ended up serving three months after allowing Merager to stash some of the stolen paintings at his East Pasadena auto business. But Merager’s past offenses have included considerably less glamorous escapades. In 2003, there was an arrest for indecent exposure after being caught without pants and masturbating while peering into the window of an 85-year-old Arcadia woman (police found baby lotion, a ﬂashlight, a knife, and Leatherman pliers among Merager’s possessions). There was another indecent exposure bust in 2018 at a United Oil gas station in Burbank, where witnesses say Merager was wearing ﬁshnet stockings with no underwear. And yet another in 2019, in which Merager allegedly exposed himself to children at the West Hollywood Aquatics Center. And although Merager wasn’t arrested for it, there was a 2019 incident in Arlington Heights that bears an uncanny

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MODERN GAL

Writer Susan Orlean gets some sun with her dogs in front of the Rudolph Schindler-designed midcentury masterpiece she calls home.

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WRITER IN RESIDENCE

Best-selling author Susan Orlean has written about everything from taxidermy to orchid thieves (and was once even played by Meryl Streep in a Spike Jonze movie). But it’s her side hustle renovating houses that’s having a big impact on L.A. architecture, as she rebuilds a midcentury classic in the Hollywood Hills BY M E R E D I T H M A R A N @ P H OTO G R A P H E D BY CO R I N A M A R I E

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S T H E S U N streams through a bank of tall

casement windows, Susan Orlean enjoys a rare moment of repose. Clad in a black Commes des Garçons turtleneck, the acclaimed writer relaxes on one of two nubby, black-and-white midcentury couches in her living room. “They came with the house,” she says when asked about the provenance of the furnishings. The house in question isn’t a humble abode near the Valley. It’s a four-bedroom, three-bath, 2,900-square-foot, multiangled masterpiece that was built in 1946 by Austrian maverick Rudolph Schindler. Orlean and her husband, investor John Gillespie, bought the showpiece in 2017 and have been restoring it ever since. “The workers and the Porta-Potty are still here,” she quips.

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While most people know Orlean as the award-winning New Yorker staffer who was portrayed by Meryl Streep in the 2002 Oscarwinner Adaptation, writing is hardly her only occupation. For years, she’s devoted much of her time to building and renovating homes of architectural renown. “Making houses is so much like making books,” Orlean says. “With both, you have certain pieces of information—your building blocks—to put together in the most interesting way. You play with form to make the ﬁnal product not just functional, but expressive.” Built into a north-facing hillside, Orlean’s residence is nothing if not intriguing. As was Schindler’s predilection, he bowed to the site’s weather and terrain, inviting sunlight into some spaces and ﬁltering it into others, creating rooms at descending levels, the angular

roofline mirroring the flow. In another typical Schindler move, the rooms are adorned with built-in cabinets, desks, and nooks that make furniture extraneous. Four—count ’em, four—modernist stonework fireplaces stand sentry over gleaming hardwood floors. Schindler described it and his other noteworthy creations as “space as a medium of art.” But when Orlean and Gillespie purchased it, the innovations were indistinguishable from its decay. “The back half of the house was at a six-foot pitch because the foundation had cracked. There was icky carpeting throughout. Every inch of the mahogany and Douglas fir interior was painted gray,” Orlean recalls, a shudder jostling her narrow shoulders. “The kitchen was a 1960s remodel. The bathrooms were terrible.”

C R E AT U R E COM FORTS

Clockwise from far left: Susan Orlean, pictured with spaniel Ivy and terrier Buck, has just published a collection of essays, On Animals, that she wrote while renovating her 75-yearold home (above).

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“When you walk into this house, there are a million details, but we’re aiming for an overall experience.”

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The 75-year-old home needed all the basics: roof, electrical, plumbing, ﬂooring. The couple also made various signiﬁcant cosmetic updates. A custom mahogany bathtub, hand-built to their specs, was shipped in from Vermont. Interior scaffolds were installed so that artisans could carefully scrape gray paint off the ceiling and uncover the gorgeous mahogany beneath it, a process that took workers months of lying on their backs to complete. Born and raised in Cleveland, Orlean attributes her love of houses to her dad, a real estate developer who took her with him when he went to see the model homes and apartments he was building. Her love of writing, though, is wholly her own. “I wanted to be a writer from day one,” she says. “I never wanted to be a ballerina or princess.”

Orlean’s voracious curiosity has yielded scores of New Yorker stories and eight nonfiction books on such disparate topics as umbrella inventors, Tonya Harding, treadmill desks, taxidermy, gospel choirs, a female bullfighter, orchid thieves, and the L.A. Public Library. In November, she launched a new column at the magazine dedicated to obituaries. Her newest book, On Animals (Avid Reader Press), came out in October, and is a lifetime’s collection of essays about creatures ranging from household pets to racing pigeons to tigers. Fittingly, her first big architectural foray was an old farm. In 2005, she and Gillespie built a three-bedroom glass-walled modern marvel on a 56-acre former dairy in New York’s Hudson Valley. Architect James Cutler, best known for designing Bill Gates’s Pacific Northwest compound, created the striking

building, which featured a two-sided, indooroutdoor ﬁreplace and towering windows in lieu of several exterior walls. “It was terrifying, making irreversible decisions, seeing a giant earthmover chewing into a naked hillside,” Orlean recalls. She and Gillespie and son, Austin, now 16, lived there until 2010, a time Orlean calls her Green Acres period. “I wrote Rin Tin Tin [the sixth book] there, in my tiny studio next to the chicken coop,” she recalls. (The family kept the home as a retreat for years but sold it for nearly $3.5 million this past spring.) In 2007, she and Gillespie visited and fell in love with Los Angeles—and a smaller Schindler home in Studio City. The previous owners had renovated it, but Orlean and Gillespie lavished the house with “a lot of cosmetic nips and tucks.”

It was there that she started her 2018 bestseller, The Library Book. “We converted the garage into a huge workspace. I had so much material,” she recalls. “It was great to be able to spread it all over the place.” The family, who love to entertain, eventually outgrew the 1,500-square-foot home, leading them to buy their current Schindler. While there are still small projects to be done, she says the renovation is mostly complete. “When you walk into this house, there are a million details,” she says, waving at the now-pristine ceiling, “but we’re aiming for an overall experience. Same with books—you don’t want people to notice a particular word. You want the reader to have an experience that’s holistic.”

WORKING FROM HOME

Above: “Through each of these renovations, I’ve had a book contract with a deadline,” says Orlean, pictured in her studio. “I couldn’t say, ‘My book will be late because I’m worried about my cabinets.’ ” Opposite: an alcove in her home displays classic Schindler touches, like extensive built-in furnishings and a unique use of natural light.

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BARELY LEGAL

SWINDLED ORPHANS. CROOKED INVESTIGATORS. A FORTUNE SQUANDERED ON BLING. INSIDE THE SURREAL SCANDAL THAT TOPPLED L .A.’S TOP LAWYER AND HIS AMBITIOUS REALITY-TV-STAR WIFE BY HILLEL ARON ILLUSTRATIO ŏ ŏ

DOUBLE TROUBLE

Tom Girardi and Erika Jayne

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L I O N A I R F L I G H T 610 took off from Jakarta at 6:20 a.m. local time, October 29, 2018, en route to Pangkal Pinang, Indonesia. Thirteen minutes later, it crashed into the Java Sea, killing the two pilots, six crew members, and all 181 passengers, including two infants, three Indonesian judges, and a former professional cyclist. It was the first of two crashes that led to the grounding of all Boeing 737 MAX passenger jets. Hundreds of sur viving family members sued Boeing, alleging that the two-month-old aircraft was “unreasonably dangerous.” The case ended up in Chicago, where Boeing is headquartered. Dozens of lawyers took up the cause of the plaintiffs. Among them was Tom Girardi. Girardi was about as famous as a lawyer can get in post-O. J. America. He was one of the lawyers brought in by Ed Masry and Erin Brockovich to help sue Paciﬁc Gas & Electric on behalf of the residents of Hinkley, California. (A composite of him and another lawyer, Walter Lack, appears in the movie). He was pivotal in winning the $333 million settlement, then a record for a class-action lawsuit in California. Every lawyer in the state knew who Girardi was. So did every politician. But to the general public, Girardi was known for whom he was married to—Erika Jayne, the pop singer and cast member of The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills. Since the Lion Air suit would be tried in Chicago, Girardi asked Jay Edelson, a Chicago-based attorney, to partner with him on the case. Edelson didn’t like Girardi. He thought he was egotistical, found his outward displays of wealth unbecoming of a plaintiff ’s lawyer. Edelson recalls flying to L.A. to meet Girardi, who insisted on lunching at Morton’s steakhouse. As Edelson and his team sat down, they could see Girardi ﬂoating from table to table like a groom at a wedding—he had set up multiple business lunches. His guests’ tables had their own custom menus with Girardi’s name on them. “He gave us a long story about all the money he spends at these places,” says Edelson. “We were dealing with a real tragedy. That was our focus. We weren’t terribly interested in how he got his name on a menu.” The Lion Air lawsuits were eventually settled for undisclosed sums. But Edelson’s cocounsel fees were not forthcoming.

“It’s very common for attorneys not to want to pay cocounsel fees,” says Edelson. “At the beginning, we just thought we were owed a couple million dollars in fees, and they weren’t paying. It was annoying, but not that big a deal.” But at a certain point, Edelson began to suspect that their clients hadn’t gotten their money either. Mass tort settlements are typically complex. There are liens to sort out, medical bills to pay, legal expenses to cover. Different plaintiffs get different amounts, based on the extent of their damages. Often, plaintiffs don’t even know how much they’re supposed to get, so they don’t know when to complain. Edelson demanded to see proof that his clients had been paid. Girardi responded with vague, ever-shifting excuses. Edelson grew more suspicious. “We thought it was unthinkable that an attorney of Girardi’s stature was going to steal money from widows and orphans,” says Edelson. “It didn’t add up.” Edelson kept after Girardi, who tried turning up the charm. He left voicemails for Edelson, promising greater riches down the road. “I wanna be in charge of all your shit,” Girardi said on one. “At the end of about nine months, I want you to say, ‘God,

WE THOUGHT IT WAS UNTHINKABLE THAT AN ATTORNEY OF GIRARDI’S STATURE WAS GOING TO STEAL FROM WIDOWS. IT DIDN’T ADD UP.”

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PR E VIO US SPR E AD: G E T T Y I MAG E S; BACKG RI D

Tom, you made me another million.’” He signed off with a very Hollywood, “Thanks, babe.” Edelson considered filing a lawsuit but hesitated. “We spoke to a former partner of his,” says Edelson. “He said, ‘Don’t ﬁle. It’s going to blow up on you. There’d be a spotlight on plaintiffs bar, it would lead to reforms that would hurt everyone.’ He said, ‘He’s been doing this for a long time, and he’s always gotten away with it.’ It was shocking.” A little more than a year ago, Girardi was a paragon of success—an attorney who’d taken on giant corporations and beaten them again and again. If his displays of wealth were ostentatious; if his wife was on a reality-TV show; if she had a closet bigger than most one-bedroom apartments, ﬁlled to the brim with shoes; if they had two private jets—was that not what a person like Girardi deserved? But in the winter of 2020, some startling revelations upended the picture. Girardi was broke. His wife was divorcing him. Dozens of lawyers, litigation lenders, and clients—victims of corporate malfeasance and negligence, to whom Girardi had once appeared as a savior—said that Girardi stole their money, lied to their faces (or into their telephones), over and over and over again. It is, perhaps, the biggest legal scandal in the state of California. “When you think about these poor people that didn’t get the recovery they’re entitled to . . . ” says Neil Wertlieb, who chairs the ethics committee of the California Lawyers Association. “Instead, their money went to buy the stuff in Erika’s closet. It’s such a betrayal. It’s hard to imagine something worse that an attorney could do.”

O M G I R A R D I practiced law in California for more than half a century. In the wake of many of the state’s most famous tragedies—the Ghost Ship ﬁre, the Northridge earthquake—there was Girardi, suing insurance companies and utilities and governments and even the Los Angeles Dodgers (over the Bryan Stow beating). He took on Lockheed, Dole, Shell, Ford, Merck, Pfizer, and most of the major Hollywood studios. These companies all feared him for his vast network of inﬂuence, but also for his talent in the courtroom. He had a folksiness that juries lapped

T H I S S P R E A D : A P P H O T O /A C H M A D I B R A H I M , F I L E ; B A C K G R I D

TA K E T H E M O N E Y A N D R U N

Top: Jayne and then-husband Girardi in 2017. As one of L.A.’s richest trial attorneys, Girardi routinely pocketed settlement money from clients, like victims of the 2018 Lion Air disaster.

up. “He had really great instincts on cases,” says Graham LippSmith, a lawyer at Girardi’s ﬁrm, Girardi & Keese, for 13 years. “He could look at a couple pieces of paper and strike at the heart of what matters.” Speaking to the Los Angeles Times in 1997, a San Francisco lawyer said Girardi “can take a complex set of facts and reduce it to a highly understandable situation for a jury. He’s not a great reader of legal books, but in front of a jury, he is dynamite.” He was equally indomitable in mediation, where he could extract enormous settlements, as he did in the Hinkley case. “Lots of times, insurance companies would settle with him on reputation alone,” attorney Philip Sheldon says. He socialized compulsively, on golf courses and in steakhouses. He regularly threw lavish parties for the legal community, with performers like Jay Leno and Styx. He was close with lawyers and judges alike. “Being a good lawyer has nothing to do with knowing the case of Mapp v. Ohio,” Girardi told Modern Counsel in 2019. “Really, it has to do with relationships, and so many lawyers have lost that idea of how important relationships are with your client, the judge, the other side.” At the heart of the Girardi saga lies a mystery: Why did he steal money from widows and orphans, from burn victims, from homeowners who lived on toxic soil, and, yes, from other lawyers? Was it premeditated? Was it a Ponzi scheme, as Edelson alleges? What possesses a lawyer of his stature to do a thing like that? Girardi’s second divorce, filed in 1998, stretched on for four years, nearly as long as the marriage itself, thanks largely to Girardi’s stalling tactics. The case file contains more than 10,000 pages and includes snapshots of Girardi’s life at the time. He and Kathy Risner lived in the same 10,000-square-foot Pasadena mansion that Girardi lived in with Jayne. “If anything, Tom was more extravagant in his choices for my clothing than I,” Risner wrote in a declaration. “He would think nothing of paying as much as $5,000 for a dress for me to wear to one of the many bar functions, charity balls, or client dinners that we regularly attended.” They traveled constantly on their private jets and ate out almost every night at “the ﬁnest West Side restaurants.” A forensic accountant, Alfred Warsavsky, was hired by Risner to dig through Girardi’s finances, and they were a mess: personal expenses charged as business expenses, millions of dollars shifted from account to account without explanation. Worst of all, Warsavsky found that Girardi was dipping into his client trust account, an escrow account for settlements to pass through on the way from defendant to plaintiff. A lawyer can use the money in the account to pay for fees, including L A M AG.C OM 87

his own, but, by law, records must be kept. Withdrawing money from the trust account for personal use is grounds for disbarment and even criminal prosecution. “The client trust accounting records maintained by Girardi & Keese have been inadequate at best and abysmal at worst,” Warsavsky wrote. “Mr. Girardi used the client trust account of Girardi & Keese to purchase personal assets during marriage . . . [Girardi] also wrote checks to himself from the client trust account.” One check was for $9 million. “He had no conscious thought about money,” says Wally Shaw, an outside accountant who did work for Girardi & Keese throughout the 1990s. “He just spent money whenever he thought about it. He had no clue, as far as investments. Every single investment I saw him make didn’t work out.” Shaw adds, “Back in the ’90s, he had all of these class-action lawsuits bringing in bazillions of dollars. He had unlimited income at that point, it seemed. There was just no end to it.”

a regular; she was a cocktail waitress. She slipped Girardi her phone number. His secretary called her the next day to schedule a date. Jayne told the secretary to have Girardi call himself. He obliged. That’s according to her book, Pretty Mess. What really happened is anyone’s guess. A few months later, Jayne moved into Girardi’s Pasadena mansion. Six months after that, he proposed. She was 27. He was 59. “Listen,” Girardi told her after their engagement, according to Pretty Mess, “I’ll buy you anything you want. I don’t care what it is. You name it. But I’m not wearing a wedding band. I never have, I never will.” Those were the terms. There would be no prenup. They were married in January 2000. Predictably, Jayne soon grew bored. She wrote, “I had all the things you could have in life when you’re thirty-five: a beautiful home, a black AmEx, and a Gulfstream.” It should have been enough, she writes, but it wasn’t. “I had never realized my own dream.” The dream, of course, was to be a singer, and it was well within Girardi’s means to arrange for that. And so he did. He hired a producer who’d cowritten songs for Madonna and Britney Spears. Jayne then created the persona Erika Jayne, an archetypal sexy, foul-mouthed sugar baby. “Money makes me hard and tight, I love to bathe in cash and pearls,” she sang in her first single, “Roller Coaster.” “Collagen, yeah, collagen/ Ain’t signin’ no checks,” she sang in “How Many Fucks?” In the music video for “Xxpens$ve,” she rolled around in cash singing, “It’s expensive to be me/Looking this good don’t come for free.” And so on. “I like the fact that it is named ‘Xxpens$ve’” Girardi later said. “It kinda suits you.” That was said in front of the cameras filming Real Housewives of Beverly Hills. The Girardis joined the cast in 2015, despite the fact that they lived in Pasadena, a good 45-minute drive from the show’s titular city. But that’s television for you. The show allowed Jayne to further explore the character she’d created, deadpanning one-liners like, “I’m an enigma wrapped in a riddle . . . and cash” and “Being broke sucks, and being rich is a lot better.” “I remember watching the first couple episodes,” says attorney Brian Kabateck. “She ends up talking about the fact they have two planes, one for short distances, one for international flights. I remember thinking, 88 L A M AG.C OM

‘Don’t ﬂaunt your wealth. We represent people who are victimized by big business and powerful people. You want to be David fighting Goliath. You don’t want to be Goliath.’ ”

IRARD I WAS born in Denver,

Colorado, in 1939, and grew up in the L.A. neighborhood of Westchester, near LAX. Whenever anyone asked why he became a lawyer, he always said it was from watching Perry Mason every Saturday night. But Mason was a defense attorney; Girardi wanted to be a trial lawyer and started out suing people over car accidents and slip-and-falls, the only cases he could catch. Girardi built his firm from scratch and tied its reputation to medical malpractice suits. In 1970, he won a verdict of $1.4 million, then the biggest malpractice verdict in California. He later entered the burgeoning ﬁeld of “toxic torts”—lawsuits alleging damage from exposure to chemicals and pollutants. The Hinkley case helped propel him into the top tier of toxic-tort lawyers, but by then he’d

D J : P H O T O B Y R I C H P O L K / G E T T Y I M A G E S F O R K E T E L O N E B O TA N I C A L ; J U S T I C E : R I N G O C H I U / Z U M A P R E S S

R I K A JAY N E met Girardi at Chasen’s. He was

Dear Simon: You have 48 hours to dismiss this case or I will make sure you never work again in this town. With kind regards, Thomas V. Girardi

already represented 640 Lockheed employees who claimed they suffered injuries and illnesses from exposure to toxic chemicals while building Stealth bombers in Burbank. The plaintiffs were separated into groups; some settled, but there were at least six trials. In one, the jury awarded $760 million to 38 plaintiffs. (It was later bargained down to $380 million.) In 1998, three of the Lockheed plaintiffs complained to the State Bar of California, which licenses and regulates attorneys, that Girardi was withholding money. Girardi denied it. “We don’t steal any money from anybody,” he told the L. A. Daily Journal. “First of all, we don’t have to. And even if we had to, we wouldn’t.” The workers sued Girardi, alleging “millions and millions” in missing money, and hired Peter Dion-Kindem, a lawyer who would later represent at least two other sets of plaintiffs suing Girardi, including residents of Carousel, a housing development in Carson built atop an oil dump. “This lawyer is the lowest-end lawyer in the country,” Girardi said in 2017, referring to Dion-Kindem (who declined to comment for this story). “He runs around, door to door, trying to sue lawyers who have cases.” By then, Girardi had acquired a certain reputation. “There were always rumors, going back to even the ’90s, about Tom not paying his referral fees to lawyers,” says Kabateck. “There was kind of a running joke in town. He’d call and say, ‘Hey, buddy, this case, we didn’t do very well, we can’t pay you a referral fee. But we get a lot of cases here—I’ll refer you something.’” Some of them sued. One settled in 2013. Two more settled in 2016. When an attorney named Robert Simon filed a lawsuit on behalf of another Girardi cocounsel, he received a terse letter on Girardi & Keese letterhead:

JAY N E , H I S W I F E

FA S H I O N W E E K : P H O T O B Y A S T R I D S TAW I A R Z / G E T T Y I M A G E S F O R N Y F W : T H E S H O W S

Clockwise from top left: The ex-waitress at Coachella; at Fashion Week; Girardi paid for Jayne’s singing career before she was cast in The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills.

“

But Girardi’s bite didn’t match his bark. That case settled too. And the lawsuits continued to f low from stif fed law yers and disgruntled clients. A 2016 suit alleged a clear pattern of behavior, citing three other lawsuits: “[Girardi’s] modus operandi is to conceal from their clients and joint counsel the settlement agreements and terms to help facilitate Defendants’ misallocation and misappropriation of the settlement funds.” Through it all, the state bar remained oddly quiet on Girardi, even though, as the Los Angeles Times would later report, it had received numerous complaints against the attorney. As the Times detailed earlier this year, Girardi had spent years and millions of dollars cultivating relationships with powerful figures within the state bar itself, including its president, Howard Miller—a former Girardi & Keese lawyer—and its executive director Joe Dunn. Perhaps his most important connection was with Tom Layton, a state bar investigator whose official salary in 1999 was less than $42,000. Girardi routinely wined and dined Layton at the Jonathan Club, gave him rides on his private jet, and employed two of Layton’s children at his firm. Girardi has also given prodigiously to Democratic politicians. The Times found $7.5 million in contributions from Girardi and his family members. He has advised the last three governors on judicial nominees. But all the connections in the world couldn’t stop Girardi from running out of money. All plaintiff lawyers who work on contingency are, to an extent, gamblers. Hoping for a big payday—a percentage of an award or settlement—they wager their time and often spend millions of dollars on experts and support staff. To cover these costs, attorneys sometimes borrow money from litigation finance firms, to be paid back with a chunk of the winnings in one or more cases. That is, the finance firm shares some of the risk. Girardi borrowed from numerous firms, often promising them all future proceeds of the same case. He’d borrow from one to pay back another. Eventually, he started defaulting.

THE STATE BAR WAS ODDLY QUIET ON GIRARDI, DESPITE COMPLAINTS. HE WINED AND DINED AN INVESTIGATOR AND GAVE HIM RIDES ON HIS JET.”

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“It was sad,” says William Savino, who represents California Attorney Lending. “He would say, ‘Bill, I’m a nice guy. Work with me. Just give me a break.’ It was pathetic.” The number of people who listened to Girardi beg for more time or offer excuse after excuse is legion. “Believe me, nobody wants the damn fees more than our ﬁrm does,” Girardi said on attorney Philip Sheldon’s voicemail. “I think we’re very close, and I think within two or three weeks we should be able to get our damn dough. I apologize. I wish it were different.” Girardi had stiffed Sheldon out of $900,000 in cocounsel fees, enough to force his small law ﬁrm into bankruptcy. Says Sheldon, “I was a putz. I treated him like a gentleman.”

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PRIDE GOETH

Above: Jayne (right) gives ABC reporter Abbie Boudreau a tour of a closet in her Pasadena mansion. Four years later, divorced from Girardi, she shops at T.J. Maxx.

by the family’s lawyer, Boris Treyzon. For the first time, Girardi admitted he was broke. “At one point,” he said, “I had about 80 million or 50 million in cash. That’s all gone. I also had a stock portfolio of about 50 million, and that’s all gone.” The deposition was private, but not for long. Jayne filed for divorce on Election Day 2020, after 21 years of marriage. A month later, on social media, she accused Girardi of having an affair with an appellate court judge, Tricia A. Bigelow. The post was quickly deleted, but not before the tabloids picked up the story. (Bigelow, who has since retired, couldn’t be reached for comment.) Back in Chicago, Jay Edelson read about the divorce. He told his staff. “I think this guy is out of money.” Edelson filed his complaint against Girardi a month later in Chicago, alleging that Girardi and his firm were “on the verge of financial collapse and locked in a downward spiral of mounting debts and dwindling funds.” Unlike previous complaints against Girardi, this one was written in stark, dramatic language sure to attract the attention of the news media, which had largely ignored the many allegations leveled against him. “Tom and Erika must project a public image of obscene wealth at all times, and at whatever the cost,” the complaint read. It accused Girardi of “embezzling the proceeds of settlements that should have been directed to his clients . . . including the widows and orphans who lost loved ones in the tragic crash of Lion Air Flight 610—in order to continue funding his and Erika’s lavish Beverly Hills lifestyles.” It even accused their divorce of being “a sham attempt to fraudulently protect Tom’s and Erika’s money from those that seek to collect on debts owed by Tom and his law firm.”

C L O S E T: A B C N E W S ; T W I T T E R . C O M / PA G E S I X

N S E P T E M B E R 9 , 2 0 1 0 , an underground PG&E gas line ruptured in San Bruno, a suburb just west of San Francisco International Airport. There was a massive explosion, leaving behind a 26-foot crater. Thirty-eight homes were destroyed, and eight people were killed, including 20-year-old Jessica Morales, who was sitting on the couch watching the first game of the NFL season with her boyfriend, Joseph Ruigomez, who managed to escape but suffered burns on 90 percent of his body. His mother, Kathy Ruigomez, hired Girardi, who by then had a stellar track record extracting money from PG&E. After months of mediation, he reached a settlement—without consulting her. When Mrs. Ruigomez asked Girardi what the amount was, he was vague. “It could potentially be hundreds of millions,” she recalls him saying. But he never told her how much they would be getting. “From the beginning, he was trying to make it unclear what we had,” Mrs. Ruigomez says. “It was deﬁnitely premeditated.” The shell game went on for years. Payments would come at random intervals, for seemingly random amounts. Eventually, they stopped. Girardi told Mrs. Ruigomez the money was invested and that she would be getting a six percent return. But she never saw any paperwork, never even knew the full amount. She would call Girardi. Girardi wouldn’t call back. Or he’d call her ex-husband. Or he’d call back and ask, “Can you send me the calculations about what I owe?” And then he wouldn’t respond. Finally, in 2019, the family sued. In September 2020, Girardi was deposed

Erika tearfully denied the accusation on Housewives. The end, so long in the making, came in Chicago, far from Girardi’s California network of power. It was there that his lawyers were forced to turn over records from his client trust account to Edelson, which showed money leaving that shouldn’t have. At least four Lion Air clients were missing half a million dollars each. “I would have thought when Boeing funds the settlement, everything, absent a holdback for attorneys’ fees, goes to the plaintiffs,” said U.S. District Judge Thomas Durkin, who’d overseen the lawsuit, in a proceeding. “Why wouldn’t everything be paid to the plaintiffs upon receipt of the money from Boeing?” No one answered. “All right,” said the judge. “The record should reﬂect there’s silence.” Durkin asked, “What went off the rails?” The lawyer replied, “It’s very, very difficult to say, Judge. Mr. Girardi is 81 years of age and has had issues regarding his mental competence.” Girardi’s personal attorney, Evan Jenness, said that the ﬁrm, which had only $15,000 in its coffers, had been unable to make payroll, and that Girardi “did not have the immediate ability to pay.” On Jenness’s advice, Girardi remained silent throughout the call. The judge called Girardi’s actions “unconscionable,” held Girardi in contempt, froze his assets, and referred the matter to the U.S. attorney. It was a watershed moment—the first time that Girardi had been held to account. “This isn’t that difficult,” the judge said. “You learn in law school—we all did—in Ethics 101, that when you get money that belongs to a client, you put it in an escrow fund and you don’t touch it . . . No matter what kind of pressures you’re under, if you touch client money, you’re going to be disbarred and, quite possibly, charged criminally . . . someone as experienced as Mr. Girardi knows that as well as anyone.”

WHEN YOU GET MONEY THAT BELONGS TO A CLIENT, YOU DON’T TOUCH IT. MR. GIRARDI KNOWS THAT AS WELL AS ANYONE.”

N M A R C H of this year, Sheldon got a call from Tom Girardi. “Phil,” he said. “Did I ever send you any money?” “No, Tom, you didn’t.” “Ok, thanks,” he said. And he hung up. Sheldon hasn’t heard from Girardi since. “I think he was trying to figure out where the money went,” says Sheldon. “I tend to believe that he really was losing it. No one could do what he did without being an outright criminal his entire life.” Creditors, who have come to include both the estate of Ed Masry and Girardi’s former law partner, Robert Keese, have forced Girardi into involuntary bankruptcy. Girardi’s brother, Robert, a dentist, was appointed his guardian. “My brother is incapable of realizing and understanding the repercussions of the bankruptcy filings,” Robert wrote in a declaration. “Furthermore, my brother is not capable of making rational decisions with respect to his ﬁnancial responsibilities and offers solutions and opinions that are factually impossible.” Later, a psychiatrist diagnosed Girardi with late-onset Alzheimer’s, writing in a declaration that his short-term memory and logical reasoning were impaired and that he was experiencing delusions and “severely disorganized thinking.” Others were skeptical. Treyzon, who deposed Girardi in September

“

2020, says, “He was cogent, he was lucid . . . I deal with brain injuries all the time. I wouldn’t believe for a second that any deficiencies he exhibited were anything other than just, ‘I was dealing with an 82-year-old man.’” Even the state bar, once so servile to Girardi, filed an objection pointing out that “as recently as November 2020 . . . Girardi was holding himself out as a legal expert and moderated a legal panel discussion with leading trial attorneys and presented on complex litigation strategy.” In the end, claims against Girardi may add up to more than $100 million. His two houses—one on a golf course in La Quinta and the Pasadena mansion—are for sale, the latter’s price having been slashed repeatedly from an initial $13 million, down to $9.98 million. (“It should sell at that number,” the listing agent says.) He is also accused of fraudulently transferring as much as $28 million to Jayne, who may be forced to pay his creditors. Girardi was finally disbarred in August. The California State Bar says it is exploring “new and innovative means of regulating and monitoring attorney-client trust accounts to prevent misappropriations from occurring in the first place.” Former Girardi & Keese partners have all moved on to other law firms. A lawyer named Robert Finnerty now works for Treyzon’s firm. David Lira, who is married to Girardi’s daughter, is with Walter Lack’s firm. Keith Griffin, another Girardi deputy, is employed at a top L.A. law partnership. Some, including Judge Durkin, have wondered what the former partners knew about Girardi’s misappropriations. “This is not a 1,000-person firm,” Durkin said in December 2020. “It’s hard for me to believe on its face that Mr. Lira and Mr. Griffin didn’t have some knowledge that the entirety of the payments were not going to the client.” (Griffin, through his attorney, declined to comment for this story; Finnerty and Lira could not be reached. All three have denied knowing about Girardi’s misdeeds.) In August, Girardi was photographed with a black eye. He looked emaciated, like a deflated balloon, in an oversized polo shirt and Bermuda shorts, almost unrecognizable from the dapper, buoyant attorney seen on television just a few years ago. “It really is a Shakespearean tragedy,” says Savino. “He should be fading into the sunset with dinners in his honor. Instead, he’s the lawyer who cheated widows and orphans.” L A M AG.C OM 91

We’ve

Got BY TRISH DEITCH

Game Pro ballers come from all over the world to shoot hoops on the courts of Venice Beach. But it’s the locals who are legendary

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PHOTOS BY URSULA VA R I

B E ACH BA LL Ryan Carter at the Veniceball League World Games in 2019. Many of the players in the Venice Basketball League, which holds tournaments during the summer, come from the early Sunday games at Court One, the ﬁrst built along the boardwalk. The other three courts were added in the early 1980s.

HER E A R E NO

teams. No refs. No set times to play or meet. Just show up whenever—Wednesday morning, Sunday afternoon. Nobody is turned away from one-on-ones, two-ontwos—not tourists, not chicks, not little boys just starting out. The basketball courts at Venice Beach—four funky pieces of asphalt with a drain hole at the intersection of 18th Avenue and the Paciﬁc Ocean—are one of the last vestiges of true democracy in L.A. Tech bros, ex-cons, teenage stoners, in-and-out-of-work actors, homeless people, NBA stars—pretty much everyone and anyone is welcome and has been since pickup games started shortly after the courts were built in the early 1980s. That’s one of the things about this Venice street-ball scene that’s most appealing to 46-year-old Romanian photographer Ursula Vari, whose been doing her own sort of shooting around these hoops since 2019, when, intent on learning to shoot bodies in motion, remembered the courts from her college days when she studied on the beach. “We all play on the court,” she says. “I play with my camera; they play with the ball.” Maybe you wouldn’t notice it at ﬁrst— especially now, after the pandemic, when the crowds have thinned out—but there’s a community of old-timers who come often from all over L.A. There’s Eugene Wright, who played professional basketball internationally for 17 years and has been coming since 1998. And Dru Turner, who started taping games on his iPhone and is now a videographer. There’s four-foot-five Mani Love, who plays for the Harlem Globetrotters and is known as the “mini Michael Jordan,” and Chris Staples who won two Guinness World Records for dunking. Street ball is different from the game played at summer tournaments organized by the Venice Basketball League—or Veniceball—since 2006; it’s more freewheeling, wilder, less polite, where ballers can show off their moves, be funny, and open up to anything anyone brings to the court. “Venice creates this ramshackle parade,” Vari says, “all of us together. We’re all here. We’re all one.” 94 L A M AG.C OM

TO P O F TH E WO R LD Malik Preatto, 23, who grew up in Venice, started coming to the courts when he was 11. Some of the older street ballers act as mentors to young athletes like him.

HOOPED International player Julien Ducree (left) and a friend, mid-game. During the lockdown, the city cordoned off the courts with tape, but players removed it. Then the hoops were locked with bars through April 2021.

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WEIGHTLESS This page: Emeka Uzomba, 21, from Buffalo, New York, blew the minds of the local street ballers when he “walked on air.” Uzomba’s basketball videos have made him a TikTok star with more than 500,000 followers.

H I G H E R L OV E Jahmani Swanson, aka Mani Love, who plays for the Harlem Globetrotters, is among pro ballers like the Lakers’ Dwight Howard, who show up looking for pickup games.

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C H E A P S E AT S Opposite page, top: Robin Danar (left), a music producer, with K. D. Perignon, a longtime baller from South L.A. Ursula Vari calls Danar the “Jack Nicholson of the courts” because he sits courtside at most of the tournament games.

JAM M IN ’ Opposite page: Chris Staples, 34, from Saginaw, Michigan, holds two Guinness World Records for dunking. Also a former member of the Harlem Globetrotters, he’s been playing on the courts since 2012.

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L.A. MAGAZINE

THE HOT LIST

Various desserts from Ett a

O U R M O N T H LY L I S T O F L . A .’ S M OS T E S S EN T I A L R E S TAU R A N T S E D I T E D

B Y

H A I L E Y

WEST Birdie G’s SANTA MONICA

THE BREAKDOWN » American $$

James Beard Award–nominated chef Jeremy Fox gets personal with a sunny spot dedicated to comfort food and named after his young daughter. The high-low menu is full of playful riffs on comfort food, from a decadent stuffed latke called the Goldbar to a matzo ball soup with carrot miso to a next-level relish tray. Don’t miss the jiggly Rose Petal pie for dessert. 2421 Michigan Ave., 310-310-3616, or birdiegsla.com. Full bar.

WEST

EAST

Includes Beverly Hills, Brentwood, Century City, Culver City, Malibu, Marina del Rey, Mar Vista, Palms, Santa Monica, Venice, West L.A., Westwood

Includes Atwater Village, Eagle Rock, East L.A., Echo Park, Glendale, Los Feliz, Pasadena, San Gabriel Valley, Silver Lake

T H E VA L L E Y

Broad Street Oyster Co. MALIBU » Seafood $$

If ever there was a car picnic scene, it’s at this openair spot overlooking Malibu Lagoon State Beach (and across from a SoulCycle, if we’re being honest). You can grab a great lobster roll (topped with uni or caviar if you’re feeling extra fancy), towers of raw seafood, great clam chowder, and a burger sprinkled with shio kombu (dried kelp) that shouldn’t be overlooked. 23359 Pacific Coast Hwy., 424-644-0131, or broadstreetoyster.com. Beer and wine.

Cassia

» Southeast Asian $$$ Bryant Ng mines his Chinese Singaporean heritage, honors wife Kim’s Vietnamese background, and works in the wood-grilling technique he honed at Mozza at this grand Southeast Asian brasserie. Hunker down at a table on the patio—or treat yourself to some great takeout—to devour turmericmarinated ocean trout or chickpea curry with scallion clay-oven bread. Wherever and however you enjoy Ng’s cooking, you won’t be disappointed. 1314 7th St., 310-393-6699, or cassiala.com. Full bar. SANTA MONICA

DOWNTOWN Includes Arts District, Bunker Hill, Chinatown, Historic Core, Little Tokyo, South Park

Includes Agoura Hills, Burbank, Calabasas, Encino, North Hollywood, Sherman Oaks, Studio City, Toluca Lake, Van Nuys

CENTRAL

SOUTH

Includes Beverly Grove, East Hollywood, Fairfax District, Hancock Park, Hollywood, Koreatown, West Hollywood

Includes Bell, Compton, Gardena, Hermosa Beach, Long Beach, Manhattan Beach, Torrance, Watts

Denotes restaurants with outdoor seating $ $$ $$$ $$$$

I N E X P E N S I V E (Meals under $10) M O D E R A T E (Mostly under $20) E X P E N S I V E (Mostly under $30) V E R Y E X P E N S I V E ($30 and above)

Price classifications are approximate and based on the cost of a typical main course that serves one. For restaurants primarily offering multicourse family meals, the cost per person of such a meal is used.

Colapasta

» Italian $ It’s equally pleasant to grab and go or eat at this quiet, affordable spot that features fresh pastas topped with farmers’ market fare. The colorful,

SANTA MONICA

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2021

E B E R

Restaurant hours are changing frequently. Check websites or social media accounts for the most current information.

poppy-seed-sprinkled beet ravioli is delicate and delicious, while the gramigna with pesto and ricotta is hearty and satisfying. 1241 5th St., 310-310-8336, or colapasta.com. Beer and wine.

Crudo e Nudo » Seafood $$

SANTA MONICA

Brian Bornemann, the 31-year-old former executive chef at Michael’s Santa Monica, has gone his own way. He and his girlfriend, Leena Culhane, have launched a sustainable neighborhood joint that’s by turns a coffee shop, a seafood market, and a casual restaurant where you can nibble impeccably prepared crudo, tuna tartare toasts, and vegan Caesar salads on the patio while sipping a thoughtfully selected natural wine. Though the project began as a pandemic pop-up, it’s now an exciting brick-andmortar spot from one of the city’s most promising young toques. 2724 Main St., crudoenudo.com, or @crudo_e_nudo. Beer and wine.

Dear John’s » Steak House $$$

CULVER CITY

There’s still good times and great food to be had at this former Sinatra hang stylishly revamped by Josiah Citrin and Hans Röckenwagner. Steakhouse classics—crab Louie, oysters Rockefeller, thick prime steaks—pay homage to the lounge’s Rat Pack past and can be enjoyed on a sunny new patio or to go. 11208 Culver Blvd., 310-881-9288, or dearjohnsbar.com. Full bar.

Etta

» Italian $$$ With a sprawling patio, lengthy menu, and various party tricks (the restaurant calls them “moments”), Etta is primed for good times. You can go big and order a $120 short rib “picnic” with various accoutrements for the table or opt to have wine poured into your mouth from a large jug while a server snaps Polaroids. But you can also just pop in for a pizza or excellent pasta at the bar. For dessert, there are shots of tequila and coffee topped with rainbowsprinkled shortbread cookies. 8801 Washington Blvd., ettarestaurant.com, or @ettarestaurant. Full bar. CULVER CITY

J A K O B L AY M A N

DEC

Felix » Italian $$$

VENICE

At Evan Funke’s clubby, ﬂoral-patterned trattoria, the rigorous dedication to tradition makes for superb focaccia and pastas. The rigatoni cacio e pepe—tubes of pasta adorned only with Pecorino Romano cheese and black pepper—nods to Roman shepherds who used the spice to keep warm, while the rigatoni all’Amatriciana with cured pork cheek sings brilliantly alongside Italian country wines. 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., 424-387-8622, or felixla.com. Full bar.

Kato

» Cal-Asian $$$ Jon Yao is now serving his acclaimed Taiwanese tasting menu outdoors. Dishes like 3 Cup Abalone and Dungeness crab soup are just as revelatory alfresco. At $118 for more than a dozen courses, Yao’s prix ﬁxe menu is one of the best deals in town. 11925 Santa Monica Blvd., 424-535-3041, or katorestaurant.com. SAWTELLE

Mírame

» Mexican $$$ Joshua Gil is cooking exciting, contemporary Mexican fare with market-driven ingredients and serving them on a stunning patio. Dishes are imaginative but not overly contrived—salmon-skin chicharrón with fermented garlic aioli; a divine slow-cooked Heritage Farms pork shoulder served with a black-lime gastrique, celtuce, and hearty, richly ﬂavorful frijoles charros cooked with a pig’s head. The latter is available as part of Mírame’s to-go family meal, which includes house-made tortillas; a memorable riff on Caesar salad with pork chicharrón, roasted vegetables and goat cheese; chocolate ﬂan; and an adorable little bottle of margaritas. At just $105 for two people, it’s an amazingly affordable way to sample Gil’s cooking. 419 N. Canon Dr. , 310-230-5035, mirame.la, or @mirame.la. Full bar. BEVERLY HILLS

Ospi » Italian $$$

VENICE

Jackson Kalb’s sprawling new Italian joint brings bustle and outdoor tables to a corner on an otherwise quiet stretch. Pastas, including a spicy rigatoni alla vodka and raschiatelli with a pork rib ragù, are sublime, and most travel remarkably well if you’re looking to takeout, which is the only option for lunch. Roman-style pizzas boast a uniquely crispy, cracker-thin crust; to get the full crunch, have a slice as you drive your takeout home. 2025 Pacific Ave., 424-443-5007, ospivenice.com, or @ospiveni. Full bar.

Pasjoli

» French $$$$ Dave Beran’s à la carte spot bucks the trends and eschews bistro clichés in favor of old-fashioned thrills—an elaborate pressed duck prepared just as Escoffier would have and served with potatoes au gratin dauphinois—and modern French fare. The showy duck must be reserved in advance as only a limited number of birds are available each night. But there are plenty of other exciting dishes on the menu, such as the chicken liver in brioche and a complex lobster, mussel, and clam bisque with shaved fennel and tarragon. 2732 Main St., 424-330-0020, or pasjoli.com. Full bar.

SANTA MONICA

Sant’olina

» Mediterranean $$$ The buzzy h.wood Group has taken over the rooftop at the Beverly Hilton Hotel to launch this breezy pop-up that’s likely to become a permanent ﬁxture. Tables with views are topped with blue-and-white linens, and the menu is full of crowd-pleasing dishes: babka french toast for brunch, harissa-cured salmon, a lamb burger for dinner, or various Middle Eastern dips for any time of day. The culinary team includes h.wood’s Michael Teich and David Johns, along with Burt Bakman of the beloved barbecue joint Slab. 9876 Wilshire Blvd., 310-285-1260, santolinabh.com, or @santolinabh. Full bar.

BEVERLY HILLS

DOWNTOWN Angry Egret Dinette » Sandwiches $$

CHINATOWN

Wes Avila has left Guerrilla Tacos and is focusing on torta-esque sandwiches at this heartfelt new venture. Standouts include the Whittier Blvd: beef belly braised in star anise-laced lard for eight hours, then stuffed in a roll with horseradish cream, avocado, queso fresco, serrano chile, and red pepper escabeche. It’s hearty and decadent—especially if you opt to add a duck egg, which you should— but also wonderfully nuanced. There’s ample outdoor seating, but sandwiches with fried ingredients, like a veggie number, with squash blossom tempura, miraculously manage to remain crispy and travel well. 970 N. Broadway, Ste. 114, 213-278-0987, aedinette.com, or @angryegretdinette.

Badmaash

HISTORIC CORE » Indian $$ This Indian gastropub concept comes from the father-and-sons team of Pawan, Nakul, and Arjun Mahendro, who are all well versed in the culinary techniques of East and West. The menu features contemporary mash-ups, like a version of poutine smothered in chicken tikka, tandoori chicken wings, and a spicy lamb burger. If tradition’s your thing, you’ll be comforted by spice-stewed chickpeas, potato and pea samosas, and what they call Good Ol’ Saag Paneer. Wash it all down with carefully curated, reasonably priced natural wines. 108 W. 2nd St., 213-221-7466, badmaashla.com, or @badmaashla. Beer and wine to go. Also at 418 N. Fairfax Ave., 213-281-5185, Fairfax District.

Cha Cha Chá ARTS DISTRICT » Mexican $$

The huge, lively, plant-ﬁlled rooftop and some mezcal would be enough for a good night out at this Mexico City import, but chef Alejandro Guzmán, an alum of Le Comptoir, has packed his menu with quiet thrills. Carnitas get taken up a level by an orange reduction that comes at the end of the long cooking process. Beets make a surprise appearance in a shrimp ceviche. For dessert, the carrot ﬂan is a small revelation, a suprising, exciting riff on a carrot cake. 812 E. 3rd St.,

highly sought-after dish. Sadly, he’s serving it only as an occasional weekend special at his tiny Far East Plaza takeout spot. But don’t despair: the everchanging menu is full of winners, from a pork chop sandwich on a pineapple bun to a beefy, memorable rendition of mapo tofu. Keep an eye on Instagram for information about Friday dinners and other specials. 727 N. Broadway, Ste. 130, 626-688-9507, pearlriverdeli.com, or @prd_la.

Redbird

» New American $$$$ Neal Fraser has deﬁned his own kind of L.A. elegance over the 20 years he’s been cooking in his native city. Setting up shop in the deconsecrated St. Vibiana Cathedral offered an opportunity to add theatrics to a space that’s contemporary and classically plush and now boasts three distinct outdoor dining areas. A delicate curried carrot broth and beluga lentils transform slices of smoked tofu from wholesome to haute, while lamb belly spins on a spit in the former rectory. 114 E. 2nd St., 213-788-1191, or redbird.la. Full bar. HISTORIC CORE

Sonoratown

FASHION DISTRICT » Mexican $ At this downtown spot known for its ﬂour tortillas, you can order à la carte or opt for affordable familystyle takeout options to make your own tacos, burritos, or chimichangas ﬁlled with chorizo, carne asada, or mesquite-grilled chicken. Wash it all down with a six-pack of Tecate or seasonal aguas frescas. Look out for a new location in Mid-City, on San Vincente Boulevard, opening this fall. 208 E. 8th St., 213-628-3710, sonoratown.com, or @sonoratownla Beer.

Superfine Pizza FASHION DISTRICT » Pizza $

Get a quick taste of Rossoblu chef Steve Samson’s Italian-food mastery at his casual pizzeria, which serves both thin-crust slices and whole pies. The pepperoni always pleases, but the honey—with spicy salami, provolone, and Grana Padano—really thrills. 1101 S. San Pedro St., Ste. F, 323-698-5677, superfinepizza.com, or @superfinepizza.

CENTRAL

213-548-8487, or chachacha.la. Full bar.

Gamboge LINCOLN HEIGHTS

» Cambodian $

The Cambodian sandwiches known as numpang, which are somewhat similar to Vietnamese banh mi, are the speciality at this charming new deli. Crusty bolillo bread is a vessel for proteins like lemongrass-marinated pork shoulder or grilled trumpet mushrooms, along with condiments like Maggi mayo, chili jam, and carrot-and-papaya slaw. The menu is full of delights beyond sandwiches, including rice bowls; a great shredded chicken salad with cabbage, peanuts, and a citrus-and-ﬁsh-sauce dressing; and a memorable braised-sardines-and-tomato dish. Order food to go, or enjoy it on the sunny, succulentdotted back patio. 1822 N. Broadway, 323-576-2073, gambogela.com, or @gambogela. Beer and wine.

Girl & the Goat » Eclectic $$$

ARTS DISTRICT

At long last, Top Chef winner Stephanie Izard has brought her hit Chicago restaurant to a light, airy space and pretty patio in downtown L.A. with seating for 200. The lengthy menu is full of international intrigue and the unexpected ﬂavor combinations Izard is known for. Roasted beets mingle with blackberries and a yuzukosho vinaigrette. A salmon poke features chili crunch, avocado, and strawberry. Goat makes an appearance in both a liver mousse starter and a hearty curry main. 555-3 Mateo St., 213-799-4628, girlandthegoat.com, or @girlandthegoatla. Full bar.

Pearl River Deli » Chinese $

CHINATOWN

Chef Johnny Lee has gained a reputation as a poultry wizard, and his succulent Hainan chicken is a

Alta Adams » California Soul Food $$

WEST ADAMS

Riffing on his grandmother’s recipes, Watts native Keith Corbin loads up his gumbo with market veggies and enlivens his collard greens with a smoked oil. Soul food in this city is too often associated with Styrofoam containers, but this verdant patio, is a lovely place to linger. Hot sauce splashed onto skillet-fried chicken is pure pleasure, enhanced by a bourbon drink the bar tints with roasted peanuts and huckleberries. Finish the night by taking on a heroic wedge of coconut cake. 5359 W. Adams Blvd., 323-571-4999, or altaadams.com. Full bar.

A.O.C.

» California $$$ Unforced and driven by culinary excellence, A.O.C. is anchored by a courtyard with soft sunlight and laurel trees. Caroline Styne’s wine list doesn’t shy away from the ecology of vineyards, while Suzanne Goin’s cooking has become indispensable. Carefully constructed salads showcase vegetables at their best, and the roasted chicken with panzanella is both an homage to San Francisco’s Zuni Café and a classic in and of itself. 8700 W. 3rd St., 310-859-9859, or aocwinebar.com. Full bar. Also at 11648 San Vincente Blvd.,310-806-6464, Brentwood. BEVERLY GROVE

Brandoni Pepperoni WEST HOLLYWOOD » Pizza $$ Six nights a week, Brandon Gray turns out some of L.A.’s most exciting pizzas. Gray, a veteran of Navy kitchens and top local restaurants like Providence, brings boundless imagination to his pies. They’re topped with premium ingredients—Jidori chicken, Sungold tomatoes, Spanish octopus—in exciting L A M AG.C OM 99

combinations. A curry-Dijonnaise dressing renders a side salad surprisingly memorable. 5881 Saturn St., Faircrest Heights, 323-306-4968, or brandoni-pepperoni.com. Wine to go.

PROMOTION

Gigi’s

» French $$$ With its sceney Sycamore Avenue location and gorgeous, illustration-lined interiors, Gigi’s could easily succeed with subpar fare. But chef Matt Bollinger’s bistro classics—like curry mussels, steak tartare, and roasted chicken—are done quite well, if priced rather high. The wine list from beverage director Kristin Olszewski, an Osteria Mozza alum, is surprisingly interesting, with various natural and biodynamic options on offer. 904. N. Sycamore Ave., gigis.la, or @gigis_la. Full bar. HOLLYWOOD MEDIA DISTRICT

DEC

Eat. Drink. Give. Thursday, December 9 5:30 p.m. - 9:30 p.m. Millwick, Los Angeles

Eat. Drink. Give. is back with a hybrid event! Feed your desire to make educational opportunities a reality for all students. Enjoy delicious food and libations and bid on exciting auction items to raise money for City Year Los Angeles. COVID-19 safety protocols will be in place for in-person guests. For tickets and more information visit cityyear.la/EDG2021

DEC

STARS of France Wednesday, December 22 7 p.m.

Hanchic

» Korean $$ This new K-town spot infuses Korean dishes with Italian elements to create uniquely craveable dishes. Tagliatelle is tossed with kimchi and pork. A decadent spin on mac ’n’ cheese features both Korean rice cakes and elbow pasta coated in tangy Mornay sauce that’s been infused with fermented soybean paste. 2500 W. 8th St., Ste. 103, hanchic.com, or @hanchic.la.

KOREATOWN

Harold & Belle’s JEFFERSON PARK » Southern Creole $$

Virtual community tasting on Zoom with wine delivered to your address

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For Creole-style food—a mélange of French, African, and Native American ﬂavors—Harold & Belle’s is as close to the Dirty Coast as you’ll come on the West Coast. The crawﬁsh étouffée in spicy gravy will have you humming zydeco, while the bourbon bread pudding will leave you with a Sazerac-worthy buzz. 2920 W. Jefferson Blvd., 323-735-9023, or haroldandbelles.com. Full bar.

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Lalibela

JAN

» Ethiopian $-$$ The strip of Fairfax known as Little Ethiopia has long been dominated by the same handful of restaurants. Chef-owner Tenagne Belachew worked in a few of them before opening her own sophisticated haven, which invites with the swirling aromas of berbere and burning sage. Stretchy disks of injera—the sour, teff-ﬂour pancake that doubles as a utensil for scooping up food by hand—arrive piled with uniquely pungent delights. There are wots, or stews, made with chicken or spiced legumes or lamb sautéed in a creamy sauce. 1025 S. Fairfax Ave., 323-965-1025, or lalibelala.com. Beer and wine.

FAIRFAX DISTRICT

L.A. Works’ Martin Luther King Day of Service January 17, 2022 9 a.m. - 5 p.m.

Join L.A. Works for Los (UNLSLZ» SHYNLZ[ ]VS\U[LLY L]LU[ JLSLIYH[PUN [OL SPML HUK legacy of Dr. King, including: Virtual @Home projects focused on education equity, designed to decrease the HJHKLTPJ HJOPL]LTLU[ NHW HUK VќLY JVSSLNL HUK JHYLLY YLHKPULZZ HJJLZZ ;OL ZLJVUK HUU\HS Minecraft March on Washington, where volunteers virtually interact with civil rights heroes laworks.com/mlk

Luv2Eat Thai Bistro HOLLYWOOD » Thai $$

Vibrant ﬂavors and spices abound at this strip-mall favorite from two Phuket natives. The crab curry, with a whole crustacean swimming in a creamy pool of deliciousness, is not to be missed (it travels surprisingly well), but the expansive menu is full of winners, from the massaman curry to the Thai fried chicken with sticky rice and sweet pepper sauce. 6660 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-498-5835, luv2eatthai .com, or @luv2eat.thaibistro.

République » Cal-French $$$

HANCOCK PARK

SPAY TODAY! 100 L A M AG.C OM

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République may be devoted to French food, but its soul is firmly rooted in Californian cuisine. Walter Manzke is as skilled at making potato and leek beignets as he is at roasting cauliflower and local dates. Meanwhile, Margarita Manzke’s breads and pastries are always spot-on. Like a fine wine, this classic L.A. restaurant just gets better and better. 624 S. La Brea Ave., 310-362-6115, or republiquela.com. Full bar.

Ronan

» Cal-Italian $$ At Daniel and Caitlin Cutler’s chic pizzeria, the pies—especially the How ‘Nduja Like It? with FAIRFAX DISTRICT

spicy sausage, gorgonzola crema, green onion, and celery—are the clear stars, but it’s a big mistake not to explore the entire menu. It’s ﬁlled with delicious delights, from cacio e pepe risotto to a sea bass served with an ever-changing assortment of banchan. 7315 Melrose Ave., 323-917-5100, ronanla.com, or @ronan_la. Full bar.

Slab BEVERLY GROVE

» Barbecue $$

Hungry diners used to line up in the driveway of Burt Bakman’s home, desperate for a taste of his famous smoked barbecue meats. In 2018, Bakman came up from the underground, opening a sleek storefront that’s now ﬁlling to-go orders for hearty fare, from perfectly marbled brisket to pulled-pork sandwiches and collard greens. You can even get a six-pack of Bud Light. 8136 W. 3rd. St., 310-855-7184, slabbarbecue.com, or @slab. Beer and wine.

Son of a Gun » Seafood $$

BEVERLY GROVE

Florida-raised chefs Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo deliver a certain brand of sun-drenched seashore nostalgia. Dropping into the nautically themed dining room for chilled peel-and-eat shrimp and a hurricane feels as effortless as dipping your toes in the sand. There are buttery lobster rolls and fried-chicken sandwiches alongside artfully plated crudos. 8370 W. 3rd St., 323-782-9033, or sonofagunrestaurant.com. Full bar.

Soulmate WEST HOLLYWOOD

» Mediterranean $$$

It’s lovely outside, and there’s a stunning new WeHo spot with a patio that can hold 75 attractive people, plus hours that go to midnight on Friday and Saturdays. Starters include various jamones and spicy paella bites. Further down the menu, there’s lot of seafood options, from wood-ﬁred octopus with charred romesco to salmon crudo. 631 N. Robertson Blvd., 310-734-7764, soulmateweho.com, or @soulmateweho. Full bar.

EAST Agnes Restaurant & Cheesery PASADENA » Eclectic $$

This low-key charmer—the work of two alums of acclaimed San Francisco Italian joint Flour + Water—deftly mixes midwestern hospitality and European technique. The casual lunch is all about cheese and charcuterie boards and sandwiches. At dinner, excellent pastas, smartly prepared proteins, thoughtfully selected wines, and great cocktails join the party on the spacious patio. 340 W. Green St., 626-389-3839, agnesla.com, or @agnes_pasadena. Full bar.

All Day Baby » Eclectic $$

SILVER LAKE

Jonathan Whitener’s Here’s Looking At You is, sadly, closed, but his thrilling cooking continues on a bustling Eastside corner. Whether you opt for smoked spare ribs, a hot catﬁsh sandwich, or a breakfast sandwich on pastry chef Thessa Diadem’s sublime biscuits, it’s all great. 3200 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-741-0082, alldaybabyla.com, or @alldaybabyla.

Bar Restaurant » French $$$

SILVER LAKE

Chef Douglas Rankin, who worked under Ludo Lefebvre for years, struck out on his own with this charming “neo bistro” in the old Malo space in Sunset Junction. The menu features playful Gallic-ish fare, like curly fries and plump mussels Dijon atop milk toast; classic cocktails; and plenty of funky wines available by the glass. A large parking-lot seating area has huge plants, twinkling lights, and good vibes. Somehow it manages to feel both festive and safe. 4326 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-347-5557. Full bar.

Daybird

» Fried Chicken $ This long-anticipated casual chicken concept from Top Chef winner and Nightshade toque Mei Lin is ﬁnally open, and it was worth the wait. Lin separates her hot poultry sandwich from the ﬂock of others in the city, thanks to uniquely crispy fried chicken that’s dusted with a memorable, Sichuanpeppercorn- heavy spice blend. A spicy slaw and habanero ranch dipping sauce add to the fun. 240 N. Virgil Ave., Ste. 5, daybirdla.com, or @daybirdla. WESTLAKE

Eszett SILVER LAKE

NATALE E T H A I

C U I S I N E

» Eclectic $$

This stylish, cozy wine bar brings warm hospitality to the strip-mall space formerly occupied by Trois Familia. Chef Spencer Bezaire’s menu deftly brings in ﬂavors from around the globe without feeling overly contrived. Chicken wings are accompanied by salsa macha, grilled Broccolini is dusted with furikake. Don’t miss the big fries. 3510 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-522-6323, or eszettla.com. Wine and beer.

Found Oyster » Seafood $$$

EAST HOLLYWOOD

This tiny oyster bar was a pre-pandemic favorite, and chef Ari Kolender’s seafood dishes still thrill when taken to go or enjoyed on the restaurant’s “boat deck.” The scallop tostada with yuzu kosho and basil is a must-order, and a bisque sauce takes the basic lobster roll to new heights. Interesting, affordable wines add to the fun. 4880 Fountain Ave., 323-486-7920, foundoyster.com, or @foundoyster. Wine and beer.

Hippo HIGHLAND PARK

» Cal-Italian $$

Hidden in a wood-trussed dining room behind Triple Beam Pizza, this Cal-Ital restaurant from Mozza vet Matt Molina balances casual and reﬁned. Snappy wax beans are sluiced with vinaigrette for a picnic-worthy salad. Great pastas and juicy grilled chicken thighs deliver the unfussy pleasure found at the best neighborhood spots. Eclectic regular specials like haute corn dogs add to the fun. 5916 ½ N. Figueroa St., 323-545-3536, or hipporestaurant.com. Full bar.

“The Best of Culver City” 9 Years in a Row - Culver City News

“Readers Choice Award”

“Best of The West Side”

- LA Times

- The Argonaut

Venice: 10101 Venice Blvd. | (310) 202-7003 Full Bar | Sushi Bar Beverly Hills: 998 S. Robertson Blvd. | (310) 855-9380 Full Bar | Valet Parking

Dine In | Delivery | Take Out | Order Online

nataleethai.com

Maury’s Bagels SILVER LAKE » Bagels $

East Coast transplant Jason Kaplan spent a decade in L.A. before deciding he had to take matters into his own hands if he wanted a great bagel in this town. He started out as a pop-up at farmers’ markets and coffee shops, but his appropriately modestly sized, delightfully chewy bagels and quality smoked ﬁsh now have a brickand-mortar location. On a quiet Eastside corner next door to Psychic Wines, it’s quite charming. 2829 Bellevue Ave., 323-380-9380, maurysbagels.com, or @maurys_losangeles.

H A L L O F FA M E 1 9 9 6 - 2 0 2 1

Northern Thai Food Club EAST HOLLYWOOD » Thai $

Offering specialty dishes unique to northern Thailand, this family-run favorite doesn’t skimp on ﬂavor, spice, or authenticity. Tasty takeout meals include the khao soi gai (curry egg noodle with chicken), laab moo kua (minced pork), tam kha noon (jackfruit salad), and pla salid tod (fried gourami ﬁsh). For those unfamiliar with the region’s distinct cuisine, the illustrious sticky rice is still a reliable bet. Need incentive? Everything on the menu is less than $10. 5301 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-474-7212, or amphainorthernthaifood.com.

Playita

» Mexican $ The team behind the beloved local chainlet Guisados has taken over an old seafood taco stand on a busy Eastside stretch. The results, as you might expect, are delicious and delightful. Playita has a fresh, beachy blue-and-white aesthetic and a tight menu of well-done ceviches, seafood cocktails, and ﬁsh tacos. 3143 W. Sunset Blvd., playitamariscos.com, or @playitamariscos.

SILVER LAKE

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» Spanish $$$

Spoon & Pork » Filipino $$

SILVER LAKE

The arrival of this splashy new spot suggests that the good times might soon be here again. It shares a charming, sprawling courtyard with the Pasadena Playhouse, and the seafood-heavy menu from chef Dominique Crisp, who previously worked at L&E Oyster Bar, begs for reuniting with friends on nice summer nights. Orange zest enlivens jamon iberico crudite, while miso butter takes grilled oysters to new heights. 37 S. El Molino Ave., 626-808-4976, sasobistro.com, or @sasobistro. Full bar.

Sōgo Roll Bar » Sushi $$

The go-to for Filipino comfort food offers a variety of dishes, all featuring one shared ingredient: deliciousness. Spoon & Pork puts an innovative spin on some Filipino favorites—just try its adobo pork belly, pork belly banh mi, or lechón kawali. The dishes, which can be ordered at the counter to enjoy on the patio or for takeout and delivery, elegantly mix decadence with some authentic soul. 3131 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-922-6061, spoonandpork.com, or @spoonandporkla. Beer and wine.

Sunset Sushi » Japanese $$$

touches like salted cucumbers and pickled onions. Sammies shine with plain cream cheese, but it’s worth grabbing a tub of Hank’s “angry” spread—a spicy, slightly sweet concoction—to have in your fridge. And no cream cheese is needed for Hank’s everything jalapeno-cheddar bagel, a stunning gut bomb. 4315 Riverside Dr., 818-588-3693, hanksbagels.com, or @hanksbagels. Also at 13545 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks.

SOUTH Ali’i Fish Company » Seafood $$

LOS FELIZ

SILVER LAKE

EL SEGUNDO

So¯go is hardly the only concept in town devoted to rolls, but it has mastered the form. Rice is cooked with the same careful consideration and seasoning that sushi master Kiminobu Saito uses at the high-end Sushi Note, and it manages to maintain a great temperature and texture, even when being delivered. Fish is not just fresh but also ﬂavorful, each type thoughtfully paired with ideal accompaniments, from a tangy yuzu-pepper sauce that makes salmon sing to brandy-soaked albacore with garlicginger ponzu and crispy onions. 4634 Hollywood Blvd., 323-741-0088, sogorollbar.com, or @sogorollbar. Beer and sake.

With omakase boxes priced from $30 to $85, this new sushi place in the old Ma’am Sir space strikes the sweet spot between affordable and indulgent and is another exciting addition to the Eastside’s growing number of quality sushi options. It’s a sister spot to Highland Park’s Ichijiku, but with a more luxe vibe and a larger menu, tailor-made for takeout. 4330 W. Sunset Blvd., 323-741-8371, sunsetsushila.com, or @sunsetsushi. Beer and sake to go.

This small, unassuming spot shames all of the glossy poke purveyors popping up around town to serve mediocre versions of the Hawaiian dish. Glistening cubes of tuna, ﬂown in fresh from the islands daily, remind you how great poke can be. The smokedahi dip with house-made potato chips is not to be missed. Perfect for picking up a beach picnic. 409 E. Grand Ave., 310-616-3484, or aliifishco.com.

U Street Pizza PASADENA » Pizza $$

MANHATTAN BEACH

C H E F FAV O R I T E S SUSAN FENIGER SOCALO

Kinpira Gobo K-ZO

K-ZO is one of my favorite places to eat these days. It’s hard to pick one dish because I love so many, but I always start with kinpira gobo, which is burdock root. You don’t ﬁnd it on enough menus. They prepare it with toasted sesame seeds and ponzu—all my favorite things—and it’s so yummy. $5, 9240 Culver Blvd., Culver City, k-zo.com. The Farmer’s Plate A.O.C.

It comes with roasted vegetables, burrata, chickpea puree, and muhamara (a Middle

Eastern walnut-andred-pepper dip). Plus, there’s bread that has a fantastic crunch. It’s just a perfect starter. $18, 8700 W. 3rd St., West Hollywood, and 11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, aocwinebar.com. The Godmother BAY CITIES ITALIAN DELI & BAKERY

It’s got Genoa salami, mortadella capicola, ham, prosciutto, and provolone. It’s truly the best-ever sandwich anywhere, just totally addictive. I love to order it extra spicy. $7.25-$11, 1517 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica, baycities italiandeli.com.

There was a moment in the spring when U Street’s vodka pepperoni pie was a shining star of Instagram, and rightfully so. The why-haven’tI-had-this-before combination of pepperoni and creamy vodka sauce is an easy win. Vegetable dishes, notably a Japanese eggplant with Calabrian chili agrodolce, are more than afterthoughts. Note that while the vodka pepperoni pie travels well, the clam pie is best enjoyed in-house. 33 E. Union St., 626-605-0430, ustreetpizza.com, or @ustreetpizza.

THE VALLEY Black Market Liquor Bar » New American $$

STUDIO CITY

Some nights it seems as if half the Valley is here, enjoying the colorful patio. Top Chef graduate Antonia Lofaso’s Italian chops are visible in the buxom ricotta gnudi with brown butter and pistachios. The deep-fried ﬂuffernutter sandwich is a reminder that food, like life, should not be taken too seriously. 11915 Ventura Blvd., 818-446-2533, or blackmarketliquorbar.com. Full bar.

The Brothers Sushi » Sushi $$$

WOODLAND HILLS

This hidden gem, reinvigorated when chef Mark Okuda took the helm in 2018, is worth traveling for. Keep spirits up with the Hand-Roll Party home kits (there’s even one for kids), or splurge on an omakase that can be enjoyed on the patio or to go. You can also order à la carte or get nonsushi items like soy-glazed grilled chicken. 21418 Ventura Blvd., 818-456-4509, thebrotherssushi.com, or @thebrotherssushila. Beer, wine, and sake.

Casa Vega

» Mexican $ The Vega family’s 64-year-old institution has put up a massive tent in its parking lot to keep the margaritas ﬂowing amidst COVID-19 restrictions. And if you prefer takeout, there’s a drive-through setup that makes it easy to pick up a plate of enchiladas or a hulking “oven-style” burrito topped with enchilada sauce and melted cheese. The expansive menu has a great selection of hearty crowd-pleasers, cocktails, and tequilas. You might leave tipsy, but you’ll never go hungry. 13301 Ventura Blvd., 818-788-4868, or casavega.com. Full bar.

SHERMAN OAKS

Hank’s

» Bagels $ The L.A. bagel revolution continues at this stylish spot in the Valley that serves up carefully constructed sandwiches. Tomato, aioli, and maple-glazed bacon elevate a simple bacon, egg, and cheese, while a classic salmon-and-lox construction has thoughtful

BURBANK

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Fishing With Dynamite » Seafood $$$

A premium raw bar near the beach shouldn’t be unusual, but it is. The same goes for velvety clam chowder. Here, it achieves smoky richness—you can thank the Nueske’s bacon for that—without any of the ﬂoury glop. On the menu, you’ll ﬁnd several kinds of oysters from across the country, Peruvian scallops, and Alaskan king crab legs. 1148 Manhattan Ave., 310-893-6299, or eatfwd.com. Full bar.

Hotville

» Fried chicken $ After three years of running a pop-up, Kim Prince has opened a brick-and-mortar that does her family’s legacy justice—she’s the niece of André Prince Jeffries, owner of Nashville legend Prince’s Hot Chicken Shack, where hot fried chicken is said to have originated. Prince adds spice at every step in the cooking process to produce a complex, layered ﬂavor. The sides ($5 and up), like spicy mac and cheese and kale coleslaw, are also winners. 4070 Marlton Ave., 323-792-4835,or hotvillechicken.com. No alcohol.

BALDWIN HILLS CRENSHAW

Little Coyote » Pizza $

LONG BEACH

That most amazing slice of pizza you had that one very drunken, late night in your early twenties in New York lives on . . . in Long Beach. The crust, made with dough cold-fermented for 48 to 72 hours, is carby perfection: tangy, crispy, thin but with a healthy puff. The concise menu doesn’t offer any revelations about what should be atop pizza, but instead perfects the usual suspects, from a generous pepperoni number to a veggie supreme that deﬁes the form’s usual mediocrity. 2118 E. 4th St., 562-434-2009; 3500 Los Coyotes Diagonal, 562-352-1555; littlecoyotelbc.com or @littlecoyotelbc.

Little Sister

» Asian Fusion $$ Chef and co-owner Tin Vuong deftly translates the ﬂavors of Vietnam for a casual drinking scene. Nibble on fresh spring rolls with shrimp, pork, and a peanut dipping sauce, then wash it all down with a craft beer. 247 Avenida del Norte, 424-398-0237, or dinelittlesister.com. Beer, wine, and sake. REDONDO BEACH

Tamales Elena Y Antojitos » Afro-Mexican $

BELL GARDENS

This small spot, with counter service, a drivethrough window, and a patio purports to be the only Afro-Mexican restaurant in the area. It focuses on a distinct cuisine from a part of Guerrero to which former slaves ﬂed. Pozoles are rich and slightly thick, and the memorable pork tamales with red sauce are wrapped in ﬁre-tinged banana leaves that impart a hint of smoke. 81801 Garfield Ave., 562-0674-3043, ordertamaleselenayantojitos.com, or @tamaleselenayantojitos. WE WELCOME YOUR COMMENTS AND SUGGESTIONS. PLEASE EMAIL US AT LETTERS@LAMAG.COM

P H O T O S C O U R T E S Y O F S O C A L O /A N N E F I S H B E I N

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A HELPING HAND PROFILING LOCAL NONPROFITS & CHARITIES

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Photo credit: Vinny Picardi

A HELPING HAND

L.A. WORKS Since 1991, L.A. Works has recruited and led over 300,000 volunteers to provide millions of hours of service in support of UVUWYVÄ [ VYNHUPaH[PVUZ \WSPM[PUN (UNLSLUVZ 3 ( >VYRZ ]VS\U[LLYZ become knowledgeable about the challenges facing their ULPNOIVYZ·HUK HZ H YLZ\S[ HYL JH[HS`aLK [V KV TVYL [V I\PSK H TVYL vibrant and equitable Los Angeles. But there is always more to do. >L HYL PU]LZ[PUN ZPNUPÄ JHU[ ]VS\U[LLY WV^LY [V JVTIH[ JYP[PJHS issues—the academic achievement gap, food insecurity, homelessness, and environmental justice—through acts of service and advocacy. In addition to socially distanced in-person volunteering, we continue [V Vќ LY ]PY[\HS ]VS\U[LLY VWWVY[\UP[PLZ [\YU RL` I\ZPULZZ ZVS\[PVUZ HUK WYVQLJ[Z ZWLJPÄ JHSS` KLZPNULK MVY MHTPSPLZ HUK HK\S[Z V]LY We remain committed to using our volunteer power to help the most vulnerable in our community.

MISSION L.A. Works produces volunteer experiences that create an equitable, diverse, and thriving community. Through virtual and in-person WYVNYHTZ ^L Vќ LY ^H`Z MVY (UNLSLUVZ [V ]VS\U[LLY HUK ILJVTL advocates for change.

WHY DONATE 6\Y UVUWYVÄ [ WHY[ULYZ ULLK V\Y Z\WWVY[ HUK ^L ULLK `V\YZ @V\Y support goes a long way toward helping us provide services to the Los Angeles community. >LZ[ (]LU\L :\P[L 3VZ (UNLSLZ *( c laworks.com 104 L A M AG . C O M

UPCOMING EVENT Martin Luther King Day of Service Monday, January 17, 2022 “Injustice anywhere is a threat to justice everywhere”—with his inspirational words ringing in our ears, L.A. Works honors the life and legacy of Dr. Martin Luther King each year through acts of service and advocacy. Join L.A. Works for Los Angeles’s largest volunteer event celebrating the national holiday. With a focus on educational equity, L.A. Works will engage volunteers where they are most comfortable—at home, online, or in-person. LAUSD students have returned to the classroom after a year of remote learning, but it is estimated that students are currently four to 12 months behind. Virtual @Home volunteers will participate in workshops and advocacy projects designed to decrease the academic achievement NHW HUK Vќ LY PUJYLHZLK JVSSLNL HUK JHYLLY YLHKPULZZ HJJLZZ For the second year in a row, Minecraft March volunteers will participate in a virtual re-enactment of the 1963 March on Washington. Volunteers will interact with NPCs (non-player characters) representing past and current day activists and OH]L H JOHUJL [V I\PSK [OLPY V^U TVU\TLU[ [V YLÅ LJ[ VU [OLPY experience. Corporate teams looking to serve in person are invited for H ILH\[PÄ JH[PVU WYVQLJ[ H[ H SVJHS ZJOVVS [V Z\WWVY[ [OL KH` NOTE: This in-person opportunity will be limited based on COVID case rates, and a reschedule date will be determined in advance if needed. For more information, please visit laworks.com.

When L.A. Works volunteers share their time, experience, and resources with the community, they become more knowledgeable about the challenges facing their neighbors – and as a result, are inspired as changemakers to work to build a more vibrant and equitable Los Angeles. Volunteer today and spark the change of tomorrow.

GET INVOLVED Volunteer: laworks.com Donate: laworks.com/donate

SUPPORT YOUR COMMUNITY TODAY A SPECIAL THANK YOU TO THE FOLLOWING ORGANIZATIONS FOR SUPPORTING OUR 30TH ANNIVERSARY.

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UPCOMING EVENTS #GivingTuesday November 30, 2021 Participate in the global generosity movement and choose to support LA’s youth with a gift to LA’s BEST. Make an impact in your community and support local students. To donate visit: lasbest.org/donate.

Give the Gift of Enrichment By December 31, 2021

2XU VWDσ DUH WUDLQHG LQ holistic child development

The LA’s BEST program provides a restorative space where youth feel safe, encouraged, and seen. Help support a holistic after school program, dedicated to enriching the whole child, from creative education [V U\[YP[PVU [V WO`ZPJHS Ä[ULZZ -VY more information and to donate, visit: lasbest.org

LA’s BEST 2022 Hiring

LA’s BEST Since 1988, LA’s BEST has provided safe and supervised afterschool education, enrichment, and recreation programs to children ages 5 to 12, in neighborhoods with the greatest needs yet fewest resources across Los Angeles, all at no cost to families. Our program applies a holistic approach to youth development—and this approach is serving our students well, now more than ever in the wake of the pandemic. We are a complete program that complements the school day by engaging students physically, emotionally, socially, and intellectually. We see—and support—the needs of the whole child.

Apply by February 2022 6\Y Z[Hќ HYL JYP[PJHS [V V\Y Z\JJLZZ Our students know them as “Coach”—consistent, caring adults from their community who teach them to lead, build friendships, explore, and more. Vaccinations are required for employment with LAUSD. Visit: lasbest.org/jobs

LA’s BEST provides arts, STEM and physical education, encourages students to process and communicate their feelings, and facilitates structured play which research shows reduces stress, improves sleep, and enhances mood. LA’s BEST students feel supported and fully engaged in learning. We need your support now more than ever to build on this work. Please consider a monthly donation to LA’s BEST to make an impact all year long. lasbest.org/donate

MISSION All children, no matter their neighborhood or circumstances, should be safe after school. But they also deserve more—they deserve a place where they can learn and thrive through social, emotional, intellectual, and physical engagement with caring adults and dynamic experiences.

WHY DONATE Every donation contributes to developing the whole child so they thrive now, learn as they grow and excel as a contributing member to their local community.

200 North Spring Street, Suite M-120, Los Angeles, CA 90012 (213) 978-0801 | lasbest.org 10 6 L A M AG . C O M

Support enrichment for youth in LA!

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HOW TO SUPPORT The Bail Project’s work is made possible thanks to the generous support of thousands of individual donors across the U.S. and around the world. This holiday season, you can give the gift of freedom. Visit bailproject.org/losangeles to become a donor today!

THE BAIL PROJECT ;OL )HPS 7YVQLJ[ PZ H UH[PVUHS UVUWYVÄ [ VU H mission to combat mass incarceration by transforming the pretrial system across the U.S. Our community-based teams work with local partners to pay bail for thousands of low-income people each year, reducing the O\THU Z\ќ LYPUN JH\ZLK I` JHZO IHPS YLZ[VYPUN the presumption of innocence, and building on the work of grassroots movements for decarceration. In Los Angeles, we partner with the L.A. County Public Defender and UCLA Law’s criminal justice program to provide

MISSION To combat mass incarceration by disrupting the money bail system—one person at a time.

free bail assistance to low-income residents. In addition to paying bail for our clients, we provide them with court date reminders, transportation assistance, and referrals to social service partners. We also collect data and stories to support advocacy and systemic YLMVYT ;OYV\NO [OLZL Lќ VY[Z ^L ZLLR [V transform pretrial justice for generations of Americans to come, bringing us one step closer to ending mass incarceration and racial and economic disparities in the U.S. criminal legal system.

PO Box 102592 Pasadena, CA 91189-2592 (323) 366-0799 bailproject.org

WHY DONATE Every donation to our revolving bail fund can be recycled: once bail money is returned when a case closes, funds are reused to post bail for others. L A M AG . C O M 107

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7(9( 36: 50j6:

A HELPING HAND

For over 40 years, Para Los Niños has provided a crucial safety net for the most vulnerable families in Los Angeles County. In 1980, the organization came to life in H ^HYLOV\ZL VU :RPK 9V^ ^OLYL H[ YPZR children, eager for a chance to learn, were Vќ LYLK H ZHML HUK U\Y[\YPUN LU]PYVUTLU[ Ä SSLK ^P[O L_WSVYH[PVU OVWL HUK VWWVY[\UP[` Today, Para Los Niños continues to respond to the ever-growing and ever-changing needs VM :V\[OLYU *HSPMVYUPH»Z TVZ[ JOHSSLUNPUN communities, with proven impact: building stronger, more stable families and brighter futures for children. PLN brings together education, early intervention, mental health, public health, community engagement, and leadership development to serve the whole child, whole family, and communities where families reside. Every dollar goes a mile to make it all happen for the over 6,000 served each year across 200 zip codes. To donate or volunteer, please visit paralosninos.org.

MISSION We believe in the children, youth, and families we serve. Our model fosters pathways to success through excellence in education, powerful families, and strong communities for children and youth to thrive.

/VSS`^VVK )V\SL]HYK Los Angeles, CA 90027 (213) 250-4800 paralosninos.org

“Since day one, Para Los Niños has welcomed me with open arms and provided me with guidance and a support system to fall back on. They have become a staple in ensuring I strive academically and professionally. Their support eased my college application process and assured me that if I took all the ULJLZZHY` Z[LWZ 0 JV\SK IL [OL Ä YZ[ PU my family to attend a university. Now HZ H Ä YZ[ NLULYH[PVU JVSSLNL Z[\KLU[ and Para Los Niños employee, PLN has become family and I am so grateful.” – Alma Canales, Instructional Assistant at Para Los Niños Gratts Primary Center, Youth >VYRMVYJL :LY]PJLZ (S\TUH

WHY DONATE Donate today and double your impact: Tina and 9PJR *HY\ZV ^PSS TH[JO HSS NPM[Z \W [V [OYV\NO [OL LUK VM @V\ JHU IL [OL KPќ LYLUJL in advancing the opportunity for thousands of children, youth, and families to thrive.

PATH We know that homes end homelessness, and the past two years have only emphasized the critical importance of having a safe place to call home. In 2021, PATH moved more than 1,500 WLVWSL Vќ [OL Z[YLL[Z HUK PU[V permanent homes. There is much more work ahead, and we need your help. PATH is inviting you to donate and help our homeless neighbors make it home. Your gift will ensure we can continue to provide life-saving services to those most in need.

MISSION Our mission is to end homelessness for individuals, families, and communities. PATH envisions a world where every person has a home.

WHY DONATE PATH is inviting you to help our homeless neighbors make it home. Your donation will ensure we can continue to provide life-saving services to those most in need.

340 North Madison Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90004 (323) 644-2200 | epath.org/give 108 L A M AG . C O M

UPCOMING EVENT 16th Annual PATH Ventures Jazz Night! Thursday, November 18, 2021 6:00 p.m. - 9:00 p.m. ;OPZ `LHY MVY [OL ]LY` Ä YZ[ [PTL 7(;/ =LU[\YLZ 1Haa 5PNO[ ^PSS be a hybrid event, celebrated both in person and virtually. Given that our programs have expanded vastly across the state and that there are varying levels of social comfort, we want to ensure L]LY`VUL OHZ HU VWWVY[\UP[` [V QVPU \Z 1Haa 5PNO[ N\LZ[Z ^PSS LUQV` H ZWLJPHS[` JVJR[HPS YLJLW[PVU H S\_\Y` YHў L HUK H [OYLL course seated dinner. The night will conclude with a lively and ZV\SM\S QHaa JVUJLY[ I` .LVYNL 2HOU 1Haa )S\LZ 9L]\L 0M celebrating virtually, the tickets include a livestream of the event and a curated event package including an assortment of wine, wine glasses, and charcuterie, which will be mailed to ticket OVSKLYZ PU HK]HUJL (SS WYVJLLKZ MYVT 1Haa 5PNO[ ^PSS ILULÄ [ 7(;/ =LU[\YLZ» ^VYR [V LUK OVTLSLZZULZZ HJYVZZ *HSPMVYUPH I` JYLH[PUN Z\WWVY[P]L HUK Hќ VYKHISL OVTLZ For information about sponsorship opportunities, please contact Carley )LYRV^P[a H[ JHYSL`I'LWH[O VYN For Tickets visit:

2021jazznight.eventbrite.com The Broad Stage 1310 11th Street, Santa Monica, CA 90401

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

SKID ROW HOUSING TRUST

A HELPING HAND

Since 1989, the Skid Row Housing Trust has helped thousands of men and women reshape their lives and regain hope. The Trust was a national pioneer in [OL Lќ VY[ [V LUK JOYVUPJ homelessness, combining housing and on-site social services, known as “permanent supportive housing.” To date, almost WLVWSL OH]L JVTL Vќ the streets and into a Skid Row Housing Trust apartment home. The Trust recently completed construction on 3 new communities, which will end homelessness for an additional 251 people.

MISSION Skid Row Housing Trust provides permanent supportive housing so that people who have experienced homelessness, poor health, disabilities, mental illness and/or addiction can lead safe, stable lives in wellness.

1317 East 7th Street Los Angeles, CA 90021 (213) 683-0522 skidrow.org

UPCOMING EVENTS Housing First Heroes Campaign November 15 - December 31 Location: skidrow.org Virtual

Community Meeting January 26, 2022 RSVP at: communications@skidrow.org

WHY DONATE Your donation to Skid Row Housing Trust supports the homes, programs and services that help our formerly unhoused residents on their individual paths to wellness.

Coming up next in our January 2022 issue:

ACADEMIC EXCELLENCE Our Academic Excellence special section will highlight the best options for our readers educational needs in the Los Angeles area with a director of top colleges and universities; private schools, continuing education and children’s educational programs.

JANUARY 2022 On sale 12/30/21 For advertising inquiries, contact Carly Allen, Director of Sales at callen@lamag.com

L A M AG . C O M 10 9

L.A. Stories

BY JASON MCGAHAN

The Trouble at Wi Spa A VIR AL VIDEO SHOT IN THE L ADIES’ LOCKER ROOM OF A TONY KOREAN BATHHOUSE SET OFF WEEKS OF SKIRMISHES AND A NATIONAL DEBATE OVER TR ANS RIGHTS—BUT NOBODY GOT THE REAL STORY

I F YOU W E R E to stick a pin in a map at the precise location of the culture war’s current epicenter—the exact coordinates where the armies of wokedom and the forces of Trumpism are locked in their most heated battle—the unlikely spot you’d land on would be the corner of Wilshire and South Rampart boulevards, just east of K-Town. To be even more precise, a place called Wi Spa. Up until last summer, this upscale Korean bathhouse was mostly known to locals for its mineral salt massages and vitamin C facials. But one day last June, events unfolded here—and we’ll get to all the sordid details in just a bit, including who exposed his (or was it her?) penis to whom—that captured the national spotlight (Tucker Carlson certainly noticed) and triggered a series of Portland-like protests and counterprotests involving everyone from Antifa to militant trans activists to a preacher who once prayed at the White House with Donald Trump, ultimately leading to pitched battles in the streets, shattered storefronts, and scores of arrests.

The Trouble at Wi Spa C O N T I N U E D F R O M PA G E 7 5

resemblance to the Wi Spa event. “This person had a female driver’s license and satisfied all the appropriate identification corresponding to gender identity,” recalls a manager at Century Day & Night Spa, where Merager is said to have caused an uproar by revealing genitalia in the women’s swimming pool. “Everything was fine [until] this person was inside and her male genitals were on full display. She was asked to cover up but refused. She said she had every right to be as nude as anyone else. It got very heated—a lot of raised voices in the women’s spa. When it spilled over into the lobby and the office, I had to intervene and ask the person to leave.” Technically, Merager was correct: it is illegal to discriminate against transgender people. But the Century Spa manager was right too; he was merely trying to protect clients from being subjected to a gratuitous display of Merager’s private parts. But the question itself raises a much bigger issue: how to decide who is legally transgender and who is merely pretending, say, as a pretext for flashing in a women’s swimming pool or locker room? What are the legal standards for male and female? Right now, the answer to that question remains somewhat murky. Once upon a time, before genderaffirming surgery, it was an easier call to make. Cubana Angel neatly summed up the old litmus test in her Instagram video: “I see a dick. It lets me know he’s a man.” But the culture—and California law—has evolved its thinking on gender identity so radically over the last half decade or so, surgery and genitalia are no longer relevant to the discussion. Just five years ago, California 110 L A M AG.C OM

required a note from a doctor or licensed therapist in order to update one’s gender on a birth certificate or driver’s license. Today, state law demands only self-attestation. In other words, if you identify as transgender, legally you are. That’s been a difficult transition for some folks to make. Dave Chappelle devoted a huge chunk of his recent controversial Netflix special to working out his issues—to put it generously—over today’s new gender norms. Harry Potter author J. K. Rowling has had some problems with it too; she’s been vilified by the trans community as a TERF—a trans-exclusionary radical feminist—for her adherence to antique notions that gender is a “biological fact.” More to the point, the criminal justice system has been tied in knots over this you-are-what-you-believe standard of gender identification, especially when it comes to cases like Merager’s. According to the letter of the law, Merager absolutely has every right to be as nude as anybody else in Wi Spa’s women’s Jacuzzi, unless prosecutors can prove Merager was fraudulently posing as a trans woman. And how exactly does one go about doing that? Still, they’re apparently trying. On August 30, after Angel and several others who were at Wi Spa on June 23 filed complaints with the LAPD’s Rampart Division, a warrant for Merager’s arrest was issued, charging Merager with five felony counts of indecent exposure. So far, the police have had no luck apprehending the fugitive, although, in September, one of Merager’s family members was stopped by police cruisers with helicopter support in Monterey Park in what was apparently a case of mistaken identity. Since the warrant was issued, Merager has popped up for only a pair of public appearances, inside the pages of the New York Post, in exclusive interviews with conservative media figure Andy Ngo, who—irony upon irony—just happens to be the one right-wing journalist despised most by Antifa, the same radical-left group that was rioting outside Wi Spa in defense of Merager’s right to get nude in a women’s Jaccuzi. “I don’t have a small penis,”

Merager told Ngo, making the argument that the women in the hot tub assumed Merager’s penis was erect, which is what triggered the uproar at Wi Spa. “What if you used the men’s room and someone said they don’t like the size or shape of your penis? That’s what they’re doing.” “If there was a theme to our conversations,” Ngo tells Los Angeles, “it was that she’s the victim.” OV E R T H E PA S T couple of months, the battle over Wi Spa seems to have simmered down, at least for the time being. The last protest outside the bathhouse was on July 31, in support of Merager, billed as the “Queerpocalypse Takeover for Trans Rights.” A trans musician performed songs for a smattering of supporters. It was an entirely peaceful event, as the right-wing anti-trans groups didn’t show up this time. They were busy that day in Anaheim, protesting mask mandates at Disneyland. The owner of Wi Spa, David Whang, of Rancho Palos Verdes, is still receiving death threats and other harassing emails—one of the reasons he declined to comment for this story—but is determined to keep his business running. At this writing, the doors remain open for mineral salt massages and vitamin C facials, as well as nude dips in the Jacuzzi. But the fallout from the summer riots continues to choke the ongoing debate over trans rights, which is unfortunate. Because nobody on either side of these riotous protests comes out of the ﬁght any better for it. Certainly not the right-wingers, but not the self-proclaimed trans allies, either, particularly those holding up Darren Merager as a poster child for their cause. “You’d think after getting arrested a bunch of times, she’d just change in a stall,” offers a lonely voice of reason, Bamby Salcedo, president and CEO of TransLatin@ Coalition, the largest trans-led organization in L.A. “Any person with any type of reason would think, ‘Maybe I’ll try to do things differently.’” Salcedo herself is a regular at Wi Spa. She’s disrobed in the locker room where Merager caused such chaos. She’s never had a problem. “I go there three times a year,” she says. “I’ve never even seen any other trans people there.”

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L A M AG . C O M 1 1 1

EMAIL YOUR BURNING QUESTIONS ABOUT L.A. TO ASKCHRIS@LAMAG.COM

Why are all the AT&T buildings in L.A. fortified and windowless?

Mad magazine artist Don Martin spoofed The Blue Boy in a 1974 issue.

L.A. phone offices in the ’20s and ’30s were showplaces open to the public. Visitors could pay their bills in person and take a tour. By the 1950s, though, phone operators had new electronic switching equipment sensitive to dust, which meant windows were mostly eliminated. The buildings were so bunkerlike that they doubled as nuclear fallout shelters. (The walls at the Sherman Oaks facility are 15 inches thick.) Today, most phone services are automated, and those solid walls are good only for keeping out the postapocalyptic zombies.

112 L A M AG.C OM

MAKE YOUR XMAS A LITTLE LESS WHOLESOME

from the artists during ﬁeld trips to art studios, are now on view at the California Museum of Art in Thousand Oaks through January 9. “I wish the mayor would open a

Q: Why are many drain covers on the L.A. River decorated with cats? A: It all began in 1960, when Jacquie Meyer, a felineloving mom in Burbank, enlisted her husband and kids to help with her pet project—painting the river’s drab drain covers with likenesses of cats. In 1970, Leo Limón, who’d seen Meyer’s street art as a kid, took his bike down the banks and began painting the ﬁrst of his street-art series “GatitaZ.” Since then, he has completed more than 60 River CatZ, which range from two- to eight-feet tall. A plywood replica is in the Smithsonian, but most have been destroyed by nature. The 69-year-old artist promises he’ll keep herding the cats for as long as he can.

O P E R AT O R S : U S C L I B R A R I E S S P E C I A L C O L L E C T I O N S ; J O H N WAT E R S : G E T T Y I M A G E S F O R R F F

TH E 411

Los Angeles switchboard operators in the early 1950s.

in the $30 million Los Angeles Uniﬁed School District Art & Artifact Collection. Fifty or so of its best California impressionist paintings, purchased by students directly

Unholy Waters!

citywide museum and we could be a wing,” says LAUSD’s Dr. Steven McCarthy. “Eric Garcetti, if you’re listening, let’s do this!” Call 213-202-8684 to visit a Victorianschoolhouse installation on display at district headquarters on South Beaudry Avenue. W H AT, M O I WOR RY?

Q: Does the L.A. school district really have a ﬁne art museum? A: Etruscan jewelry, sculptures by Dali, and a mural by Shepard Fairey are among the 100,000 pieces locked away

CHRIS’S PICK

O Subversive ﬁlmmaker John Waters knocks over the tree and celebrates the festive season with his one-man show, A John Waters Christmas, on December 2 at the Vermont in Hollywood, once Teatro Los Chuperamigos, a showcase for wacky Mexican comedy acts. The 75-year old bon vivant is emerging from a two-year “home detention” in Baltimore to celebrate his favorite parts of the holiday, including a “religious fanaticism for Santa Claus,” during his 25th anniversary tour. The untraditional traditionalist, who released his ninth book, Mr. Know-It-All: The Tarnished Wisdom of a Filth Elder, in 2019, comes to L.A. every winter with his rapid-ﬁre advice on how to handle holiday rituals and disasters.

VOLUME 66, NUMBER 12. LOS ANGELES (ISSN 1522-9149) is published monthly by Los Angeles Magazine, LLC. Principal office: 10100 Venice Blvd., Culver City, CA 90232. Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, and additional mailing offices. The one-year domestic subscription price is $14.95. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to LOS ANGELES, 1965 E. Avis Dr., Madison Heights, MI 48071. Not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or other materials, which must be accompanied by return postage. SUBSCRIBERS: If the Postal Service alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. Copyright © 2021 Los Angeles Magazine, LLC. All rights reserved. Best of L.A.® is a registered trademark of Los Angeles Magazine, LLC. Reproduction in whole or in part of any text, photograph, or illustration without written permission from the publisher is strictly prohibited. SUBSCRIBER SERVICE 866-660-6247. GST #R133004424. PRINTED IN THE USA.

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