Piccolino Ristorante

Akaushi steaks and huge Australian lobster tails at the expected steep prices. Attentive service always makes a fat tab go down easier. Garage parking is a huge plus during summers in Surf City. 300 Pacific

Coast Highway, 714-960-0996. $$$

CUCINA ALESSÁ

Despite the exit of its founding chef, this two-story trattoria maintains a solid following thanks to a veteran crew at ease with the original menu and recipes for house-made pastas, feather-light pizzas, and breakfast omelets. 520 Main St., 714-969-2148.

See Newport Beach location. $$

DUKE’S

Jammed on summer weekends, this pierside hangout is named for Hawaiian surfing legend Duke

Kahanamoku. Grilled fish and steaks are fine for

Saturday nights, but the kitchen excels at tasty fish tacos, macadamia nut hummus, and burgers with

Kennebec chips. Monday’s happy hour is from 3:30 to 9 p.m. 317 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-6446. $$

FISH CAMP

From Sam King of the King’s Fish House fleet comes this overtly dressed-down seafood cantina at the northern edge of coastal O.C. Order the day’s catch from the counter and await delivery of straightforward classics such as pristine oysters, ahi poke,

Idaho trout, and crab galore. Sandwiches, skewers, and worthy clam chowders also recommended. 16600 Pacific Coast Highway, 562-592-2267. $$

RED TABLE

The “red” in Red Table, Huntington Harbour mall’s neighborhood tavern, stands for “relax, eat, drink.”

The creative menu of American eats is big on highcarb snacks, savory share plates, and strapping proteins that feel right in a welcoming setting accented with quirky design elements and a red communal table. 16821 Algonquin St., 714-846-4700. Beer and wine. $$

SESSIONS

Surf City is the ideal spot for the second “West Coast deli,” this time across from the sand. Terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two are gourmet creations, meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. From-scratch soups, sides, and dressings. A surfer ethos extends to hearty breakfasts featuring

Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 414 Pacific

Coast Highway, 714-594-3899. Beer and wine. See

Irvine and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

SLOW FISH

Easily overlooked in a strip mall along busy Bolsa

Chica, this slightly hip storefront serves distinctly modern Cal-Asian fare, artfully plated by chef Sean

An. Don’t miss the signature Fat Avo appetizer or entree of braised short rib over black rice. Good sakes, great prices, and a teensy sushi bar are unexpected extras. 16051 Bolsa Chica St., 714-846-6951. $$

WATERTABLE

Here’s a rare bird, a hotel restaurant in a tourist resort that the locals love for lots of reasons. Progressive takes on global dishes, tip-top craft cocktails, copious happy hours, and the steady hand of longtime Chef Manfred Lassahn keep this venue on point. We return just for the white cheddar and thyme biscuits with seasonal butter. The morning lineup of health-first bowls, smoothies, and toasts caters to beach runners. Hyatt Regency, 21500 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-845-4776. $$$

IRVINE

ANDREI’S CONSCIOUS CUISINE & COCKTAILS

Irvine’s ever-slicker business zone is a good home for this classy, top-floor, New American choice for power diners, office pals, and couples. Modern craft cocktails enhance a menu that blends California ingredients with global flavors. Top toque Porfiro

Gomez’s menu retains favorites such as the beef spring rolls, watermelon salad, and Duroc pork

T-bone. Happy hour is a standout in a crowded field. 2607 Main St., 949-387-8887. $$

BISTANGO

A longtime airport-area mainstay, Bistango has remained surprisingly contemporary, with creative dishes such as sweet, soulful garlic soup, and black truffle ravioli. It’s also a classy venue for live music, and its rotating art collection adds to the air of urban sophistication. 19100 Von Karman Ave., 949-752-5222. $$$

CHA CHA’S LATIN KITCHEN

This addition to the restaurant family owned by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni is an inviting casa with a menu of modern Mexican fare

CHEF & RESTAURANT PROFILES

PICCOLINO OLD WORLD FOOD, NEW WORLD AMBIENCE

Salvatore Faso opened Piccolino Ristorante in 2007. Born to Sicilian immigrants in local cuisine. The goal was simple: combine his lifelong experiences accumulated authenticity, preparation and Sicilian cuisine philosophy. His passion for the Canyons and its surrounding communities landed him in Mission Viejo. White table clothes and candlelit dining await your visit!

boosted by commendable new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole to name a few. The indoor-meets-outdoor patio by designer Thomas Schoos is a fine upgrade of the Brea flagship. Weekly specials add value and excitement. Impressive tequila menu. 13126 Jamboree Road, 714-408-7819. See Brea location. $$

CUCINA ENOTECA

This 285-seat operation from San Diego’s Urban

Kitchen Group offers two sprawling patios and a huge, lively dining room with bar and wine minimarket, and the scene oozes chic with scads of handmade furnishings for sale. The Cal-Ital menu is equally large and inventive, from spreads in Mason jars and salumi platters to handmade pastas. Particularly good for large parties. 532 Spectrum Center

Drive, 949-861-2222. See Newport Beach location. $$

HABANA

We waited 22 years for this glamorous Habana sibling, and it was worth it—a sprawling 300-seat compound that co-opts Cuba’s frozen-in-time splendor.

A roomy patio open to the sky is made intimate by high walls and lots of beautiful props and vignettes, with alcoves dedicated to house pastries and coffees. Despite the impressive scale, the menu hews tightly to the focused offerings at its Costa Mesa original. 708 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-419-0100.

See Costa Mesa location. $$$

JA JIAOZI

It’s all about handmade dumplings here. They grace every table, anchoring meals rounded out with other hot and cold dishes. Firsttimers, ask your able server for help. Top picks include steamed Flaming Hot and boiled Signature jiaozi, along with refreshing tofu-skin salad. Topnotch shrimp fried rice is a winner, too. Watch the masters at work from a five-seat bar. 13776 Jamboree Road, Irvine, 714-786-8999. $$

JAVIER’S CANTINA & GRILL

Sipping margaritas made with premium tequilas and fresh lime juice, and dining on steaks or seafood amid the glamorous resort-style decor is like a little trip to Baja. You’ll find combos, salsa with a kick, and creamy guacamole, but go for the signature spinach enchiladas in an emerald-green pasilla sauce. The Irvine Spectrum location is buzzy and busy. 536 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-872-2101. See

Newport Coast location. $$

MEIZHOU DONGPO

Good seating, engaged service, and touches of elegance elevate this classy Sichuan dining room, a retool of a 6,000-square-foot Marie Callender’s in bustling Culver Plaza. Access is easy, and parking is free. Beyond that, it’s all about the Beijing-style roast duck (whole, $77; half, $40), meticulously sliced into petals of tender meat crowned with crackling amber skin, for rolling into thin crepes. Weeks of aging, drying, and lacquering coax out heady flavors.

Spicy values include dan dan noodles and countrystyle sliced pork. 15363 Culver Drive, 949-433-5686.

Beer and wine. $$$

NORTH ITALIA

Rich, intense flavors, discerning techniques, and a modern mindset make North Italia, from Fox Restaurant Concepts, a chain that easily beats some indies out there. Sunny by day and stylish at night, the voluminous room’s high ceiling and open plan manages to feel more intimate than its 280- to 300seat capacity, though it’s perpetually packed. Aim for the artisan-style pizzas, fresh house-made pastas, Beet and goat cheese tortellini at Porch & Swing

short rib with polenta, farm salad, and bombolini dessert. 2957 Michelson Drive, 949-629-7060. $$

PAUL MARTIN’S AMERICAN GRILL

A major player at the Spectrum in Irvine, this inviting 295-seat venue offers a plain-spoken, single-page carte of highly seasonal American dishes. Sunday dinner deal on Prime rib, and Monday $65 wine dinner for two. 534 Spectrum Center Drive, 949453-1144. $$

PORCH & SWING

BEST NEW RESTAURANT 2021

This delightful new indie serves a “taste of Charleston” starring original riffs on American classics by chef

Justin Werner and cocktails by Andrew Parish. Musttry dishes include roasted pork jowl over grits, amazing creamless creamed corn, and gorgeous salads. House-baked breads are a strength, too. The patio is lovely. 2010 Main St., 949-418-7988. $$

PUESTO

San Diego’s high-profile taqueria has two Irvine options for O.C. fans. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, and tortillas made by hand from organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. The cheese is especially brilliant on vegetarian tacos. Always ask about the monthly taco special. The Park Place center location’s indoor-meets-outdoor venue is intimate and color-splashed. Park Place, 3311 Michelson

Drive, 949-608-7272; Los Olivos Marketplace, 8577

Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. $$

ROBATA WASA

From the wizards behind popular Wasa sushi comes this sleek, authentic izakaya at the Spectrum, ideal for noshing Japanese comfort nibbles at lunch or after a movie, or tossing back sakes and brews. 926

Spectrum Center Drive, 949-536-5064. $$

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE

Sizzling Prime steaks, wet-aged from 24 to 28 days, are served topped with big pats of butter and chopped parsley. Founder Ruth Fertel grew up in

New Orleans so there are crab cakes, Gulf shrimp, and sweet potato casserole. 2961 Michelson Drive, 949-252-8848. See Anaheim location. $$$

SESSIONS

No. 3 is a charm for O.C.’s indie chainlet of “West

Coast” delis. Expect terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two, gourmet creations that are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. Fromscratch soups, sides, and dressings. A beguiling lake-

side setting beckons for lazy breakfasts featuring

Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 4736 Barranca Parkway, 949-333-3949. Beer and wine. See

Huntington Beach and Newport Beach locations.

Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $

SAM WOO RESTAURANT

Many don’t know this reasonably priced, no-frills place is not named after someone called Sam Woo— the term actually refers to the Chinese notion of harmony. Yanked-from-the-tank seafood is a specialty, as are dim sum and Hong Kong noodle dishes.

Service is reliably speedy and brusque. For faster carry-out meals, try the express buffet next door. 15333 Culver Drive, 949-262-0688. Beer and wine. $

TACO ROSA

With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily aguas frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the

Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the

Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-5056080. See Newport Beach location. $$

TWO LEFT FORKS

This inland sibling has the strong appeal of its now-closed original Dana Point location, except the coastal site has been swapped for a roomier space with easy parking, as well as lunch and weekend brunch service. Come here for bananas Foster pancakes or an open-face sandwich with burrata, prosciutto, avocado, and eggs your way. Popular for happy hour. 6511 Quail Hill Parkway, 949-3876700. $$$

LAGUNA BEACH

ALESSÁ BY CHEF PIROZZI

This village center magnet for robust Italian fare by chef-owner Alessandro Pirozzi boasts a bar featuring primo versions of burrata, scamorza, and other cheese delights, as well as elite cured meats from Italy and up-and-coming domestic producers, all hand-sliced to order. 234 Forest Ave., 949497-8222. $$

BROADWAY BY AMAR SANTANA

Boy wonder chef Amar Santana and industry vet Ahmed Labbate decamped

Charlie Palmer to create this sexy urban bistro. Fans old and new keep the tight quarters humming to the backdrop of an open kitchen and vintage flicks playing on the flat-screen over the expansive bar.

Santana’s dishes are opulent and intense. The wine list includes many notable half-bottles. 328 Glenneyre St., 949-715-8234. $$$

BRUSSELS BISTRO

Loud and lively, this bistro brings a bit of Belgium to

Orange County, with traditional beers on tap and an authentic menu. Stick with the tasty burger on rustic bread, or the mussels, served with the requisite frites. 222 Forest Ave., 949-376-7955. $$

CARMELITA’S KITCHEN DE MEXICO

This is the boutique version of Rancho Santa Margarita’s sprawling shop, but both offer top-notch

Cal-Mex fare. Expect Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, and Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Don’t miss costillitas—baby back ribs topped with fried onions. Outstanding margaritas.

Warm, spiffy service. 217 Broadway St., 949-715-7829.

See Rancho Santa Margarita location. $$

COYOTE GRILL

A great scenic stop on your drive down Coast Highway, Coyote Grill is a Mexican-American diner with a million-dollar view. For brunch, choose from breakfast burritos, chilaquiles, and huevos rancheros. Dinners range from fried chicken to lobster tacos and tamales. The food is serviceable, but the experience is like a minivacation. 31621 Coast Highway, 949-499-4033. $$

THE DRAKE

The grownups sipping cocktails are here for a full serving of primo live music paired with the cuisine of Paul Gstrein (ex of

Bistango and Bayside). Laguna’s own Alec Glasser prevails in creating a dashing joint where both the musicians and the kitchen have serious chops. Diners dig into Euro-inflected dishes (try the lamb lollipops, the Alpine Melt, the chile-lime swordfish).

Musicians dig the highbrow sound system, and the room generates a superlative groove. 2894 S. Coast

Highway, 949-376-1000. $$$

DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN

With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versus-view gamble.

Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. Brunch items and craft drinks

Est. 2015

Lamb Salad Plate

FROM THE LANDS OF THE MEDITERRANEAN

Damasq Café, is local familyowned featuring fast, healthy Halal-certified Mediterranean cuisine in Corona del Mar.

Chef Jamal Diab creates mouthwatering selections made with fresh herbs, bell peppers, onions, garlic, tomatoes and eggplant. Jamal’s menu also includes tender fl ame-grilled beef, chicken, chicken kabobs and lamb infused with fl avorful spices, homemade Habanero, Tahini and Garlic “Secret” Sauces. Great Flavors - Great Prices!

3601 E Coast Hwy / Corona del Mar, California / 949-873-5425

also are good bets. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, 949715-7700. $$

HARLEY LAGUNA BEACH

Refreshed to a comfy sheen, this landmark twostory tavern is unfussy and welcoming with vintage family photos on the wall, some featuring the chef’s

Grandpa Harley. As ever, chef-owner Greg Daniels coaxes savoriness from goods sourced from small producers such as Gonestraw Farms in Riverside.

Their eggs with bright-orange yolks become soft, jammy “deviled” eggs. Gonestraw chicken also stars in a lovely potpie with celery root, heirloom carrots, and the warm aura of curry. For dessert, downhome pecan pie and ice cream made with honey from Orange Park Acres’ own Backyard Bees. 370

Glenneyre St., 949-715-1530. Dinner only. $$$

LAS BRISAS

Equal parts history, view, and food, Las Brisas (The

Breezes) endures as a coastal landmark locals can’t resist for showing off the best view in Laguna Beach.

Whether it’s for margaritas at sunset or a leisurely

Sunday brunch, the veteran dining room team generally handles high-volume crowds with poise.

Breakfast and even Sunday brunch are good values. The active patio bar fills to capacity in summer. 361 Cliff Drive, 949-497-5434. Reservations recommended. $$$

THE LOFT

Part of the fun of dining at the posh Montage Laguna

Beach is a spectacular ocean view, and this restful aerie delivers that view with style. The welledited menu features refined fare made from prime, seasonal goods with coastal flavors. Always leave room for nibbles from the inimitable cheese gallery boasting the area’s best selection of elite cheeses with from-scratch condiments. 30801 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-6420. $$$

LUMBERYARD

Veteran local restaurateur Cary Redfearn brought new life to this downtown landmark with a welcoming bar and comfort classics such as meatloaf and chicken potpie that lure tourists and villagers alike. Look for a solid happy hour. 384 Forest Ave., 949-715-3900. $$

MOZAMBIQUE

The eclectic cuisine shows influences of South Africa.

Peri-peri prawns, curries, and grilled meats are best bets. The wine list includes interesting selections from South Africa and New Zealand. 1740 S. Coast

Highway, 949-715-7777. $$$

NEAPOLITAN PIZZERIA & BIRRERIA

All about pizza worship and emphatically Italian, right down to the Molino San Felice flour and the glossy red Stefano Ferrara wood-fire oven imported from Italy. These pies—bubbling hot in the middle with a puffy, spotted ring of crust—require a knife and fork. Don’t ignore the cadre of small plates that includes a terrific chopped salad and dandy meatballs the size of softballs. 31542 S. Coast Highway, 949-499-4531. Beer and wine. $$

NICK’S

Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this inviting, urbane bar and grill lures grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich. Softly lit and cushily appointed, the open-air space boasts a sidewalk patio. Sociable service is Pork belly Benedict at Sapphire Cellar Craft Cook

notably polished. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949-3768595. See San Clemente location. $$

OLIVER’S OSTERIA

Wedged into an oddball canyon retail center, this tidy shop is chef-owner Erik De Marchi’s all-out defense of faithful fare inspired by his home turf of Italy’s Emilia-Romana region. Pastas are wondrous, but do wait to hear the daily specials that can include juicy lamb chops or crepes (crespelle) with porcini mushrooms in truffle-perfumed béchamel. Tight quarters make dining noisy when the room is full. And Oliver? He’s De Marchi’s first child, born on opening day. 853 Laguna Canyon

Road, 949-715-0261. $$$

SAPPHIRE CELLAR CRAFT COOK

The latest incarnation of Laguna Beach’s historic Coast Highway venue is much better than it has to be, given its bulletproof location.

Upmarket, innovative American cuisine by executive chef Jared Cook includes irresistible weekend brunch waffles and Benedicts, classy lunch salads, and dinners that star fresh oysters and a splendid ribeye. On-site pantry for beach eats. 1200 South

Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$

SELANNE STEAK TAVERN

Anaheim Ducks star Teemu Selanne cements his brand with this polished and popular steak joint on a venerated stretch of Coast Highway.

Prime, pricey beef rules the day on executive chef

Vince Terusa’s menu designed for a pro athlete’s appetite and fan base. We like the main floor’s easy, breezy tavern for terrific cocktails, the superlative burger, and world-class people-watching. 1464 S.

Coast Highway, 949-715-9881. Dinner only. $$$

SPLASHES RESTAURANT

Easily one of our coast’s top resort options for a surf’s-edge indulgence, this contemporary dining room and lounge are famed for pricey romantic meals and sunset drinks. Ron Fougeray is executive chef. A stunning Pacific view dazzles, as does Fougeray’s five-star resume that includes a James Beard nomination. Expect seasonal, coastal fare. Ask for lower-level patio seating and you might feel spray off the crashing waves. Surf & Sand Resort, 1555 S.

Coast Highway, 888-281-3502. $$$

STARFISH

Locals and escaped Montage resort guests slip in for seaside cuisine with an Asian inflection at this

Coast Highway venue. The dusky digs and sexy ’tude