RMO LLP

TRUST ESTATE PROBATE LITIGATION

Scott E. Rahn

RMO LLP

SEEING CLIENTS AS PEOPLE, NOT CASES

When families in Southern California find themselves in the unthinkable position of grieving the loss of a loved one and needing a top law firm for trust, estate or probate litigation, they turn to RMO LLP.

RMO professionals deftly navigate the turbulence and turmoil of each case’s unique circumstances, professionally and aggressively taking control, protecting assets and executing proven strategies.

CUSTOMIZING AN APPROACH TO FIT CLIENT NEEDS RMO approaches these goals while minimizing conflict and providing peace of mind by clearly and frequently communicating with clients and outmaneuvering the competition on the legal battlefield while also avoiding unnecessary and stressful conflicts that waste time and money.

RESOURCEFUL, STRATEGIC AND EFFECTIVE

The boutique firm’s clients count on leading-edge advice and proven strategies from its probate, trust and estate attorneys – who live in, think about and litigate these issues all day, every day. Because RMO’s litigators have seen—or heard—nearly all of it before, they know what works and how to avoid needless expense, stress and delays.

The firm leverages its in-depth experience with cutting-edge technologies that help its legal teams maximize efficiencies and reduce the time and cost necessary to obtain the best outcome.

RMOLawyers.com

3200 Park Center Dr., Ste. 270 // Costa Mesa, CA 92626 // 949-226-8509

NOTE FROM THE EDITOR

AS OF PRESS TIME IN EARLY MARCH, RESTAURANTS WERE ALLOWED TO SERVE DINERS OUTSIDE. RULES CHANGE OFTEN: PLEASE USE THIS GUIDE AS A STARTING POINT, THEN CALL THE RESTAURANT TO LEARN ABOUT RESTRICTIONS AND RESERVATIONS. DESCRIPTIONS HERE ARE MOSTLY BASED ON DINING BEFORE SOCIAL DISTANCING.

APRI L 2021

DINING GUIDE

ORANGE COUNTY’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE FOR RESTAURANT NEWS & MINIREVIEWS

PRICING $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25

Denotes Critic’s Choice restaurant

ALISO VIEJO

OPAH

Trendy and sleek, this neighborhood hottie oozes a hip energy that attracts single minglers and ’burban scene-hunters in search of artfully prepared

California cuisine. Choose from a varied, creative menu with an array of signature items. Monster martinis keep the mood lively. 26851 Aliso Creek

Road, 949-360-8822. $$

ANAHEIM

CATAL RESTAURANT AND UVA BAR

Dead center in Downtown Disney, Catal is the

Patina Group’s nod to Spain’s Mediterranean cuisine. Expect an urbane spin on rustic fare such as lobster paella, making this one of the zone’s better spots for fine dining. Just outside, Uva Bar is an alfresco saloon with light eats and great peoplewatching. 1580 Disneyland Drive, 714-774-4442. $$$

MORTON’S, THE STEAKHOUSE

Steaks—including the 24-ounce porterhouse and center-cut filet mignon—are wet-aged 23 to 25 days.

Fill your plate with giant sides of broccoli and hash browns, but leave a little room: There’s chocolate cake for dessert. Killer bar-bite deals nightly from 4:30 to closing. 1895 S. Harbor Blvd., 714-621-0101.

See South Coast Metro location. $$$

NAPA ROSE

Wine country thrives at the Disneyland Resort by way of this classy dinner house— no park admission required. Star chef Andrew Sutton leads his crew in an exhibition kitchen, turning out imaginative, highly seasonal New American fare. The room mixes rustic with refined, and the notably wine-savvy waitstaff, many qualified as sommeliers, deftly tailors unforgettable meals around wines from one of the region’s finest cellars. Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa, 1313

Disneyland Drive, 714-300-7170. $$$

POKINOMETRY

Downtown Anaheim’s build-a-poke-bowl canteen is busy for three reasons: The food is delectable, cheap, and made your way. All the elements of delicious Hawaiian poke are assembled based on what you choose. Pick from cubed raw fish, white or brown rice, fresh onions, cucumber, avocado, mild to incendiary sauces, and vibrant garnishes of smelt roe, sesame seeds, nori, pickled ginger, and wasabi.

Parking is problematic, so go off-hours, or pay for a spot in the Wells Fargo garage off West Broadway. 184 S. Harbor Blvd., 657-208-3488. No alcohol. $

THE RANCH RESTAURANT & SALOON

Oozing top-notch ambition, The Ranch packs some big guns—executive chef Michael

Rossi and his brother David, pastry chef. The large venue also includes an upscale saloon and dance hall, sited in the six-story headquarters of Extron

Electronics. The whopping (mostly) seasonal American fare is a mashup of down-home and uptown. 1025 E. Ball Road, 714-817-4200. $$$

ROY’S

Chef-partner Laura Reyes adds dishes to Roy Yamaguchi’s signature collection of Hawaiian-Asian favorites. From sushi to dessert, the accent is on

fresh flavors. This location is Convention Center- and Disneyland-close. 321 W. Katella Ave., 714-7767697. $$$

RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE

Sizzling Prime steaks custom-aged 21 days are served topped with big pats of butter. Founder Ruth

Fertel grew up in New Orleans so there are crab cakes, Gulf shrimp, and sweet potato casserole. 2041

S. Harbor Blvd., 714-750-5466. See Irvine location. $$$

TRUE SEASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN

This sleek storefront by Saifon Plewtong now adds wraps, bowls, smoothies, and desserts to a menu that once focused solely on hot pots. Still, the spotlight is on organic, GMO-free local produce and allnatural proteins. Do try the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice for a refresher like no other in these parts. 5675 E. La Palma Ave., 714-462-9223. Beer and wine. $$

URBANA

This colorful latecomer to the Anaheim Packing

House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mezcal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$

ANAHEIM HILLS

EL CHOLO

A spiffy suburban outpost of the combo-plate chain that started in L.A. in 1923. Many dishes are listed with their year of origin. One of the best dates from the birth of the restaurant: the Sonora-style enchilada topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 8200 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-769-6269. See Corona del Mar and La

Habra locations. $$

REUNION KITCHEN + DRINK

Popular with the locals, this dapper haunt oozes bonhomie thanks to a solid team led by industry vet

Scott McIntosh, whose feel-good American classics are consistently executed by a tight kitchen. Service is sharp. Look for a homey meatloaf, laudable fried chicken with yummy mashers and fresh biscuits, and house-made desserts. Modern cocktails and a roomy patio increase the pleasure factor. 5775 E.

Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-283-1062. Second location (not yet reviewed) in Laguna Beach. $$

ROSINE’S MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT

This neighborhood darling includes a 20-seat bar, complete with a full liquor license and a clutch of specialty cocktails. Fragrant rotisserie chickens are always popular, though the menu now offers winebraised lamb shanks, and Pacific ono skewers. A siz-

OUR CRITERIA

Restaurants are reviewed by our dining critics and staff and have no relationship to advertising in Orange Coast. Listings are updated regularly. We do not accept free meals; visits are anonymous. Price classifications are based on a typical three-course dinner (appetizer, entree, dessert) for one person. Alan Gibbons edits this listing. You can reach her at agibbons@orangecoast.com.

Charcuterie board at Old Brea Chop House

able roster of gluten-free choices anchors a spin-off menu. 721 S. Weir Canyon Road, 714-283-5141. $$

BREA

BRUNOS ITALIAN KITCHEN

One of North County’s best venues boasts advantages that are fairly rare in these parts: thoughtfully executed Italian cuisine, a cozy setting, and appealing prices. This sibling of neighbor Cha Cha’s does winning arancini, steamed mussels, house-made pappardelle, and a fine branzino. A notable happy hour features steep discounts on terrific appetizers and signature Italian cocktails. 210 W. Birch St., 714-257-1000. $$

CEDAR CREEK INN

A gorgeous patio, welcoming lounge, and attractive dining room lend upscale charisma to this handsome eatery with an appealing menu that has something for everyone. Coffee-shop favorites get deluxe attention. Salads, sandwiches, and desserts are particularly strong. Dependably skilled service. 20 Pointe Drive, 714-255-5600. $$

CHA CHA’S LATIN KITCHEN

This cool hang with a wraparound sidewalk patio is Birch Street Promenade’s most enduring dining success. Helmed by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni, the menu of modern Mexican fare is boosted by a wood-burning oven and new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole. Taco Tuesday is just one of

many weekly specials. Impressive tequila menu. 110 W. Birch St., 714-255-1040. See Irvine location. $$

JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN

Big and welcoming, this 230-seat sprawling venue is a utility player thanks to a broad menu of modern comfort fare. It’s a handy call for patio lunches, upbeat happy hours, hearty dinners, and bossy brunches. Locals swarm the upbeat space, noshing on mighty burgers, fried chicken, and prime rib. Desserts are fantastically huge, if ordinary. 3325

E. Imperial Highway, 714-733-1310. See Dana Point location. $$$

MACALLANS PUBLIC HOUSE

Chef Andrew Wang’s modern but comforting pub cooking is just one upgrade that’s helping this young venue finally catch on in North County. Topnotch whiskey offerings and a killer Irish breakfast on weekends also entice. Don’t miss the ridiculously authentic Irish coffee, or stop in for the very robust happy hour. The upscale vibe is a welcome switch from the usual timeworn pub conditions. 330 W.

Birch St., 714-529-1224. $$

OLD BREA CHOP HOUSE

Finally, North County’s fine diners can skip the trek south to splurge on old-school steakhouse dinners. Longtime Morton’s veteran

Tony Fasulo breaks away, polishing the classy formula to a high sheen. Expect deluxe beef, say a Tomahawk chop or a strapping Delmonico, boosted with first-class seafood, precise cocktails, and cosseting service. Marinated skirt steak is the sleeper call. Cozy

yet utterly contemporary, the venue includes a 25-seat bar with charcuterie platters and an alluring happy hour. 180 S. Brea Blvd., 714-592-3122. Dinner only. $$$

TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY

Taps continues to be O.C.’s landmark pick for dining on a wide range of appealing seafood, pasta, steaks, and spunky New Orleans specialties that go down well with award-winning ales and lagers that change often. Happy hour is a big draw for value-seekers. Sunday brunch is a popular feast. 101 E. Imperial Highway, 714-257-0101. $$

CORONA DEL MAR

THE BUNGALOW

Comfy booths, a lively bar with stiff martinis, and lots of premium wines by the glass lure diners to this dinner house darling with the feel of a Craftsman home. Prime beef is king, but you also can get a huge Aussie lobster tail. Desserts are classic berries and cream, and chocolate souffle cake, so you can concentrate on your surf ’n’ turf. Lunch is hearty sandwiches and huge high-quality salads.

Just save us a seat on the charming patio. 2441 E.

Coast Highway, 949-673-6585. $$$

CDM RESTAURANT

The successful team behind A Restaurant pounced on the defunct Crow Bar, retooling it with scraped light-wood floors, peacock-blue velvet booths, leather chairs, and a freestanding, always-busy bar.

The kitchen takes on seasonal, contemporary American fare. Think a trio of unexpectedly sublime pizzas.

Ethereal Parker House rolls. A killer Niman Ranch pork chop. 2325 E. Coast Highway, 949-287-6600. $$$

EL CHOLO

It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 3520 E. Coast

Highway, 949-777-6137. See Anaheim Hills and La

Habra locations. $

FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS

This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s fourth and busiest enterprise yet, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and

O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The restaurant-gazebo seats 120 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. Craft cocktails have a farmers market tilt, and a nascent cheese program rounds out the ever-changing feast. 2301 San Joaquin Hills Road, 949-640-1415. $$$

FIVE CROWNS

O.C.’s beloved, vine-covered, fine-dining landmark of 1965 stays current thanks to a refreshed menu by executive chef Alejandra Padilla (formerly with

Hillstone and Patina groups). Foodies thrill to foie gras brûlée and roast goose with wild grains, but sumptuous feasts of prime rib retain a hallowed spot on the carte at this Lawry’s-owned institution.

As always, service is polished and accommodating.

Leave room for the righteous sundae made with C.C.

Brown’s hot fudge, an old Hollywood marvel. 3801

E. Coast Highway, 949-760-0331. Dinner only. $$$

QUIET WOMAN

Perpetually packed with locals for decades, the

Q-Dub (as it’s known) pours mean drinks and nota-

JEWEL OF A BISTRO | BLUE BOX CAFE

All things Tiff any & Co. come in unmistakable blue packaging, and its new bistro is no exception. The first Blue Box Cafe opened in 2017 at the jewelry company’s fl agship Fift h Avenue location in New York City; the second is in the boutique’s stunning new relocated space at South Coast Plaza, which nearly doubles the size of its quarters since 1998. Fans of the beloved Audrey Hepburn film “Breakfast at Tiff any’s” pop in for exactly that—chiaseed yogurt pudding with farmer’s market fruit, croissant with Oxnard strawberries and lavender mascarpone, avocado toast, smoked salmonbuckwheat mille-feuille, and Tiff anyblend tea costs $120 for two—or the Tiff any Tea with scones, tea sandwiches, chicken salad, petit fours, and confections is $150 for two; add $750 if you want the Color Block bone-china set for two to take home. The eatery opened with takeout only; enter through the Home & Accessories salon when indoor dining is allowed. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa—BENJAMIN EPSTEIN

ble wines by the glass, and keeps a teensy kitchen busy cranking out more-than-decent American grub such as filet mignon sliders and crab cakes, at prices that reflect the ZIP code. Most nights, a house band cranks up the decibels and enlivens the vibe. 3224 E. Coast Highway, 949-640-7440. $$

SIDEDOOR

Nested within the landmark Lawry’s Five Crowns, this gastropub welcomes come-asyou-are diners with a changing daily menu of imaginative small plates, seasonal soups, prime rib sandwiches, potpies, and desserts. Don’t miss the charcuterie station with choice cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Always interesting wines by the

glass, craft beers, and signature cocktails boost the inviting room’s jolly British vibe. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-717-4322. $$

TACKLE BOX

Pretty little Corona del Mar State Beach has a yearround chow counter, thanks to Pasadena native and chef-owner Brian Huskey, a veteran of “Top Chef” season 11. Look for an affordable menu of daytime eats that includes avocado-smoked salmon tartine, chilaquiles with black beans, and even an ace Buffalo cauliflower for beach body vegetarians. Weekend lunch includes star Maine lobster roll on squid ink bun. No booze, but there’s always a house-made agua fresca. 3029 Shore Ave., 949-723-0502. $

COSTA MESA [ SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO ] 2145

Santa Ana native and Pizzeria Ortica veteran Eduardo Salcedo brings an artisan mindset and Japanese aesthetic to this Neapolitan-style pizza joint in a cleverly repurposed auto shop. Aromas of almond-wood fire whet the appetite for his finely crafted pies and imaginative toasts on house-baked shokupan, Japan’s beloved breakfast loaf. Sit at the white marble bar or under umbrellas on the patio to enjoy bresaola and burrata salad with pickled fennel, or hyper-tender octopus with diced potato, charred scallions, and squid ink mayo. Star dessert:

horchata tiramisu. 2145 Placentia Ave., 949-873-5853.

Beer and wine. $$

ARC

The welcoming lair features a 15-seat bar overlooking the open kitchen and hard-working oven. It’s an audacious concept that lures a varied, loyal crowd.

Winners include roasted pork cheek, a gorgeous wedge salad, and unique steak cuts. The pizza boutique serves posh pies topped with the likes of blue cheese, short rib, and basil, or roast duck, romesco, and olives. 3321 Hyland Ave., 949-500-5561. $$$

BOATHOUSE COLLECTIVE

This quirky hang is a restaurant and private-event venue from local artist Clayton Peterson. A pastiche of upcycled shipping containers and post-andbeam construction, the space is also indoor-outdoor, with frequent live music by local and touring acts.

Mathieu Royer is executive chef, cooking a tight and ever-changing menu of eclectic fare that’s in sync with this oddball shop. Don’t miss the savory burger.

Terrific craft cocktails ensure a mixed crowd. 1640

Pomona Ave., 949-646-3176. $$

CASABLANCA

Owner Abder Amokrane refreshes this venue with a new identity, decor updates, and menu upgrades.

The vast and ancient cuisine of the Mahgreb is nicely executed here with a bit of Spain (paella) and France (shrimp Provençale) included. Bountiful platters of appetizers span regions and centuries of legendary cuisine. Seating options aplenty mean this is a good call for gatherings of many sizes. But even the five-course dinner for two is appealing and a steal at $36 per person. 1976 Newport Blvd., 949423-7990. Dinner only. $$

THE COUNTRY CLUB

The 175-seat “social club” is a massive reset of Pierce

Street Annex, a long-notorious Costa Mesa watering hole. VIP treatment without a membership fee is the concept partners Mario Marovic and Andrew

Gabriel are leveraging, complete with an adults-only setting with Gatsby-era glam. High-class cocktails are not fussy but lean on house-made syrups and mixers. 330 E. 17th St., 949-281-2582. $$

DESCANSO

Descanso’s novel twist is the elevation of the taquero to center stage. Inspired by the dynamic street foods of Mexico City, owner Rob Arellano seats diners right at the plancha grill to watch their tacos sizzled with pizazz. Happy hour is particularly tempting if you can scoot in midweek, from 3 to 6 p.m. 1555 Adams Ave., 714-486-3798. $$

HABANA

Flickering candles light the way through a highceilinged dining room, convivial bar, and lush patio at The Lab’s enduring Cuban hang for date nights and late nights. Most of the fare sticks solidly to classics, such as roast chicken and ropa vieja, but the appetizer side is loaded with winners. Updates include a lavish, all-you-can-eat brunch with live island music and an array of delicious baked goodies.

Intimate confines make reservations a smart move. 2930 Bristol St., 714-556-0176. See Irvine location. $$$

IZAKAYA HACHI

A handsome, modern izakaya from the owners of Manpuku, Hachi is a boisterous, convivial gem.

The charcoal-grilled skewers shine, including the chicken meatball and chicken thigh. Expect a little bit of everything here: gloriously marbled beef, fresh oysters, composed salads, fried chicken, and Ahi tuna at Glasspar

unique pressed sushi. 3033 Bristol St., 657-231-6566.

Dinner only. $

LA CAVE

Retro-hip, if unintentionally so, Eastside Costa

Mesa’s ’60s Rat Pack lair of a joint has changed little more than the prices over these many years.

Stiff drinks, thick steaks, and live music keep the leather booths full, one floor below ground via a tired elevator. This is the place to feed your craving for Sinatra and Elvis tribute acts. 1695 Irvine Ave., 949-646-7944. $$$

MESA

At this high-style hipster hang with a retractable roof, expect shareable dishes that play by the seasons and don’t shy away from intense flavors. Highlights include mussels sizzled in cast iron and fried cicchetti olives. An interesting, value-packed wine list beckons, as do inspired artisan cocktails. 725

Baker St., 714-557-6700. $$$ OLD VINE KITCHEN & BAR

Popular for its brunch-type fare in a town rife with competing options, this charming nook has upgraded with a larger space. Foodies rave about urbane dishes, many with an Italian accent. Think barbecue pork omelet by day, seasonal tasting menu by night. Chef-owner Mark McDonald likes to pair his dinners with interesting wine flights from the world over, and he regularly leads culinary excursions to southern Italy. 2937 Bristol St., 714-545-1411. $$

PITFIRE ARTISAN PIZZA

The first O.C. shop from this thriving L.A.-based chain is not your nonna’s pizzeria. Upbeat and come-asyou-are casual, it’s a Cal-Ital original. A menu packed with classic and seasonal wood-fired pies, pastas, and salads has wide appeal, so this retooled Marie

Callender’s stays packed with fans of all ages. Check out its back-door speakeasy, Pie Society. 353 E. 17th

St., 949-313-6333. $

PLUMS CAFE

Fresh, high-quality cooking shaped by the Pacific

Northwest lures locals to this strip-center lunch and weekend brunch favorite for creative eats such as smoked salmon hash and hazelnut flapjacks. 369

E. 17th St., 949-722-7586. Breakfast and lunch. $$

SOCIAL

Social brought hipster dining to a scruffy westside strip mall, opening the area to considerable gentrification. The 118-seat retooled venue surprises with sophisticated cooking and a nicely refreshed menu, especially now that executive chef Jeffrey

Boullt is back and managing two scratch kitchens.

Yes, a second Social is open in Huntington Beach.

Signature items include lamb empanadas, Wagyu beef tri-tip, and craft cocktails. Service is variable. 512 W. 19th St., 949-642-2425. Weekend brunch. Second location (not reviewed) in Huntington Beach at 21214 Beach Blvd. $$

TACO MARÍA

Every dish is a marvel of deeply considered modern Cal-Mex cuisine from chef-owner and O.C. native Carlos Salgado, who parked his esteemed food truck enterprise for this site. Even the stripped-down setting draws all attention to the food. Dinners are four-course prix fixe affairs, with thoughtful wine pairings. Lunch—when the tacos appear—is a more laid-back and affordable way to sample the refined slant that snagged Salgado a Michelin star and several James Beard nominations for chef awards. 3313 Hyland Ave., 714-538-8444. Beer and wine. $$$

CYPRESS

CAFÉ HIRO

Hiding out in Cypress, chef-owner Hiro Ohiwa caters to a devoted following who admires his formal

French training and Japanese aesthetic. He applies it to a quirky lineup of seasonal specials where anything goes—from wild mushroom curry to osso bucco—all at prices too fair to be true. No wonder the place is always packed. 10509 Valley View St., 714-527-6090. Beer and wine. $

DANA POINT

ENOSTEAK

The coast’s most intimate salon for ultrapremium steaks is discreetly tucked just off the lobby at this esteemed resort. Beef—be it grass-fed, grain-fed, bone-in, or dry-aged—is the star of a pithy-if-pricey menu that’s unabashedly loyal. Lavish compound butters to enjoy alongside steaks are a house signature. Polished service and often enchanting desserts. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949240-2000. $$$

GLASSPAR

Now an improv market offering the primo seafood typically sold to coastal resorts, Glasspar launched as a classic seafooder, oyster bar, and tap room.

Veteran top toque and local Rob Wilson helms his dream retool of the old Mahé site, open for dining as well as supporting the community with ultrafresh goods and his five-star tips for serving seafood at home. A tight focus on top-shelf cocktails is sure to be much appreciated once groups gather within toasting distance. 24961 Dana Point Harbor

Drive, 949-240-6243. $$$

JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN

Big and welcoming, this 225-seat harbor side venue is a utility player thanks to a broad menu of modern comfort fare. It’s a handy call for patio lunches,

upbeat happy hours, hearty dinners, and bossy brunches. Locals swarm the upbeat space, noshing on mighty burgers, fried chicken, and prime rib.

Desserts are fantastically huge, if ordinary. 25001

Dana Point Harbor Drive, 949-388-8900. See Brea location. $$

RAYA

Steve Wan is executive sous chef at this posh-butrelaxed dining room conceived by celeb chef Richard Sandoval. After the eye-popping bluff-top ocean view, Pan-Latin seafood dominates the experience.

But prepare to see many Asian touches on the modern menu, in creative dishes that masterfully bend ethnic borders. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949-240-2000. $$$

SALT CREEK GRILLE

Rambling Craftsman architecture and a lovely terraced patio supply a handsome backdrop for mesquite-grilled chophouse favorites and comfort classics. The roomy lounge does a vigorous business when live music lures coastal partiers too chic for beach dives and too dignified for dance clubs. 32802 Pacific Coast Highway, 949-661-7799. $$

WATERMAN’S HARBOR

A beacon of new on Dana Point Harbor’s salt-worn embarcadero, this sleek seafooder offers two floors with scenic views of the breakwater action, including a big, breezy patio shaded from the sun’s rays on those high UV days. Fresh oysters are the $1.50 star of happy hour. 34661 Golden Lantern St., 949764-3474. $$$

FOUNTAIN VALLEY

AU LAC

A miraculous menu of traditional Vietnamese and

Chinese dishes, without meat or fish, comprises the self-described “humanese” cuisine at this New Agey bistro. A creamy fish-shaped loaf of tofu is unforgettable; so are the spring rolls. Even desserts are healthful, with fruity selections such as Rainbow in the Sky Pie. 16563 Brookhurst St., 714-418-0658. $$

THE RECESS ROOM

This city’s first gastropub exists because five childhood pals needed a local haunt for gathering after their weekly basketball game. Food and booze enjoy equal amounts of love at this 148-seat venue—a cleverly retooled former Coco’s. Expect small-batch, offbeat brews and ace craft cocktails, plus lots of rich, shareable noshes. Think tender octopus with toasted quinoa for contrast, luscious pork cheeks confit, and lime-yuzu panna cotta. 18380 Brookhurst

St., 714-377-0398. $$$

FULLERTON

THE CELLAR

Downtown Fullerton’s abiding choice for classy, oldschool French dining is a North County staple for romantic meals, thanks to an underground room that’s ornate, yet cozy. Expect swanky choices such as chateaubriand, and a fine dark chocolate souffle. 305 N. Harbor Blvd., 714-525-5682. $$$

EARLY BIRD

Imaginative breakfasts washed down with in- season, single-origin coffee make this humble hang

Fullerton’s sleeper for the foodie crowd. Look for duck confit hash, buckwheat flapjacks with ginger- citrus syrup, or trendy hits like buttermilk fried Shrimp tempura at Nova Kitchen & Bar

chicken and waffles, complete with house gravy. 1000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-529-4100. Breakfast and lunch. $$

HOPSCOTCH TAVERN

The affable downtown watering hole is unabashedly keen on booze. Artisan cocktails that feature 140 whiskeys and a choice of 80 craft beers are the axis for a limited menu big on brawny proteins, savory carbs, and fried finger foods. The clever revamp of

Fullerton’s 1918 Mission Revival-style Pacific Electric

Railway Station feels accessible and low-key. 136 E.

Commonwealth Ave., 714-871-2222. $$ KHAN SAAB DESI CRAFT KITCHEN

Born in the crucible of the pandemic, this halal bistro serves flavorful kebobs, curries, and street snacks alongside wood-fired Wagyu steaks. Creator and executive chef Imran Ali Mookhi applies a Michelin mindset acquired after years in fine-dining kitchens.

Khan Saab has the best stocked alcohol-free bar in

O.C. 229 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-853-1081. $$

SUMMIT HOUSE

Set high above Fullerton’s northern city limits, this imposing Tudor manor house offers a sparkling citylights view at night, though the attractive grounds are pretty by day, too. The American menu offers few surprises; British-style prime rib and oak-grilled Skuna Bay salmon are reliable. Polished service brings back plenty of special-occasion diners. The cozy tavern bar is popular for light meals and happy hour. 2000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-671-4111. $$$

GARDEN GROVE

NOVA KITCHEN & BAR

This glamorous sleeper is a terrific dinner choice for distinctive fare that nods to Japan,

Korea, and China. The handsome 35-seat lanai covered patio is beyond fine. Executive chef Abel Vargas oversees a sizable menu that also includes showy sushi and top-shelf cocktails. Do consider the tuna tartare, corn tempura, or coriander-braised short rib. Genteel service. 12361 Chapman Ave., 714696-0888. $$$

HUNTINGTON BEACH

BLK EARTH SEA SPIRITS

The tourist crowd is mixed with locals year-round at this second-floor spot with a magnetic beach view. Chef Jesus Munoz’s photo-ready dishes deliver the satisfaction that builds a fan base for Prime