DINING GUIDE tightly to the focused offerings at its Costa Mesa original. 708 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-419-0100. See Costa Mesa location. $$$ JA JIAOZI It’s all about handmade dumplings here. They grace every table, anchoring meals rounded out with other hot and cold dishes. Firsttimers, ask your able server for help. Top picks include steamed Flaming Hot and boiled Signature jiaozi, along with refreshing tofu-skin salad. Topnotch shrimp fried rice is a winner, too. Watch the masters at work from a five-seat bar. 13776 Jamboree Road, 714-786-8999. $$ PORCH & SWING This delightful indie serves a “taste BEST NEW RESTAURANT of Charleston” starring original riffs 2021 on American classics and cocktails by Andrew Parish. Must-try dishes include roasted pork jowl over grits, amazing creamless creamed corn, and gorgeous salads. House-baked breads are a strength, too. The patio is lovely. 2010 Main St., 949-418-7988. $$ PUESTO San Diego’s high-profile taqueria has two Irvine options. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, and tortillas made by hand from organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. The cheese is especially brilliant on vegetarian tacos. Always ask about the monthly taco special. The Park Place center location’s indoormeets-outdoor venue is intimate and colorsplashed. Park Place, 3311 Michelson Drive, 949-608-7272; Los Olivos Marketplace, 8577 Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. Third O.C. location (not reviewed) in Huntington Beach at Bella Terra. $$ SESSIONS No. 3 is a charm for O.C.’s indie chainlet of “West Coast” delis. Expect terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two, gourmet creations that are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. Fromscratch soups, sides, and dressings. A beguiling lakeside setting beckons for lazy breakfasts featuring Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 4736 Barranca Parkway, 949-333-3949. Beer and wine. See Huntington Beach and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $ SAM WOO RESTAURANT Many don’t know this reasonably priced, no-frills place is not named after someone called Sam Woo— the term actually refers to the Chinese notion of harmony. Yanked-from-the-tank seafood is a specialty, as are dim sum and Hong Kong noodle dishes. Service is reliably speedy and brusque. For faster carry-out meals, try the express buffet next door. 15333 Culver Drive, 949-262-0688. Beer and wine. $ TACO ROSA With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily aguas frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-5056080. See Newport Beach location. $$
LAGUNA BE ACH ALESSÁ BY CHEF PIROZZI This village center magnet for robust Italian fare by chef-owner Alessandro Pirozzi boasts a bar fea-
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Brown butter roasted maitake mushrooms at Porch & Swing turing primo versions of burrata, scamorza, and other cheese delights, as well as elite cured meats from Italy and up-and-coming domestic producers, all hand-sliced to order. 234 Forest Ave., 949497-8222. $$ BROADWAY BY AMAR SANTANA Boy wonder chef Amar Santana and industry vet Ahmed Labbate decamped Charlie Palmer to create this sexy urban bistro. Fans old and new keep the tight quarters humming to the backdrop of an open kitchen and vintage flicks playing on the flat-screen over the expansive bar. Santana’s dishes are opulent and intense. The wine list includes many notable half-bottles. 328 Glenneyre St., 949-715-8234. $$$ BRUSSELS BISTRO Loud and lively, this bistro brings a bit of Belgium to Orange County, with traditional beers on tap and an authentic menu. Stick with the tasty burger on rustic bread, or the mussels, served with the requisite frites. 222 Forest Ave., 949-376-7955. $$ THE DRAKE The grown-ups sipping cocktails are here for a full serving of primo live music paired with the cuisine of Paul Gstrein (ex of Bistango and Bayside). Laguna’s own Alec Glasser prevails in creating a dashing joint where both the musicians and the kitchen have serious chops. Diners dig into Euro-inflected dishes (try the lamb lollipops, the Alpine Melt, the chile-lime swordfish). Musicians dig the highbrow sound system, and the room generates a superlative groove. 2894 S. Coast Highway, 949-376-1000. $$$ DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versus-view gamble. Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. Brunch items and craft drinks also are good bets. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, 949715-7700. $$
NICK’S Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this inviting, urbane bar and grill lures grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich. Softly lit and cushily appointed, the open-air space boasts a sidewalk patio. Sociable service is notably polished. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949-3768595. See San Clemente location. $$ OLIVER’S OSTERIA Wedged into an oddball canyon retail center, this tidy shop is chef-owner Erik De Marchi’s all-out defense of faithful fare inspired by his home turf of Italy’s Emilia-Romana region. Pastas are wondrous, but do wait to hear the daily specials that can include juicy lamb chops or crepes (crespelle) with porcini mushrooms in truffle-perfumed béchamel. Tight quarters make dining noisy when the room is full. And Oliver? He’s De Marchi’s first child, born on opening day. 853 Laguna Canyon Road, 949-715-0261. $$$ SAPPHIRE CELL AR CRAFT COOK The latest incarnation of Laguna Beach’s historic Coast Highway venue is much better than it has to be, given its bulletproof location. Upmarket, innovative American cuisine by executive chef Jared Cook includes irresistible weekend brunch waffles and Benedicts, classy lunch salads, and dinners that star fresh oysters and a splendid ribeye. On-site pantry for beach eats. 1200 South Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$ SEL ANNE STEAK TAVERN Anaheim Ducks star Teemu Selanne cements his brand with this polished and popular steak joint on a venerated stretch of Coast Highway. Prime, pricey beef rules the day on executive chef Vince Terusa’s menu designed for a pro athlete’s appetite and fan base. We like the main floor’s easy, breezy tavern for terrific cocktails, the superlative burger, and world-class people-watching. 1464 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-9881. Dinner only. $$$
photographs photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S
