Orange Coast magazine - November 2021 by The Lifestyle Magazines of SoCal

DINING REVIEW: Little Sister shines at Irvine Spectrum

N O V E M B E R 202 1 HANDMADE IN O.C. / LIT TLE SISTER AT IRVINE SPECTRUM / L AGUNA ART MUSEUM'S NEW LEADER

IN ORANGE COUNTY Artisans craft surfboards, skincare, ceramics, and more

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M EU S U M TS O T AR . RO A .C UN R O G LA HE F O TO R S TO U R N C E T IR RE

spectacular sıt down ocean views 448 SERRA, CORONA DEL MAR Constructed by the acclaimed Nicholson Companies, this 4-bedroom residence with spectacular ocean views exudes endless sophistication, superior finishes and fixtures, and deluxe amenities.

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COLDWELL BANKER REALTY | Not intended as a solicitation if your property is already listed by another broker. The property information herein is derived from various sources that may include, but not be limited to, county records and the Multiple Listing Service, and it may include approximations. Although the information is believed to be accurate, it is not warranted and you should not rely upon it without personal verification. Real estate agents affiliated with Coldwell Banker Realty are independent contractor sales associates, not employees. ©2021 Coldwell Banker. All Rights Reserved. Coldwell Banker and the Coldwell Banker logos are trademarks of

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The brand that defines luxury. As an exclusive Orange County affiliate of Christie’s International Real Estate, First Team is distinguished as best in class. Together, we bring the most desired luxury homes to the world’s most discerning buyers. Christie’s International Real Estate commands recognition among high-net-worth buyers and sellers worldwide and is the noted authority on the marketing of high-value properties. Our finely-tuned suite of programs provides a world-class showcase for distinguished homes, and our clients benefit from ties to the world’s leading art business and its worldwide real estate network. Discover the advantages of partnering with our worldwide network at FirstTeam.com/Luxury. © First Team® Real Estate. All rights reserved.

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NOVEMBER 64

HANDMADE IN O.C.

COMING HOME

From jewelry and textiles to ceramics, skincare, and more, local artisans are crafting goods with care, creativity, and skill.

“I always have several types of thyme, plus sweet basil, Thai basil, African blue basil, mints, and dill.” —JARED COOK, CHEF AND PARTNER AT VINE (AND SAPPHIRE, OLEA, AND IRONWOOD), ON HIS GARDEN FOR THE RESTAURANTS, BELOW

Julie Perlin Lee, the new executive director of the Laguna Art Museum, arrives with deep ties to Orange County and big plans for the museum’s future. BY AL AN GIBBONS

GARDENS FOR CHEFS AND BY CHEFS

A photo essay shows off the plants these local foodies cultivate for use in their restaurants and others in Orange County. BY GRETCHEN KURZ AND EMILY J. DAVIS

O N T HE COV ER

Photograph by Emily J. Davis Hand-lettering by Christopher Lord

6 O RA NGE CO A ST • November 2021

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

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NOVEMBER 56

12 19 20 22

An illuminated tunnel along Bosque Trail in Irvine

ST YLE & HOME Seasonal pieces from Costa Mesa Ceramics

DRINK TRENDS Seed-to-strainer cocktails

HOT SHOP Atmosphere Atelier in San Juan Capistrano

’HOODS New finds in Costa Mesa

FINDS Cozy knitwear for fall

MY O.C . A shift in perspective makes for a more meaningful, but quiet, birthday celebration.

ON THE MARKET A Laguna Niguel property fit for a festive gathering

DINING GUIDE Many of our restaurant reviews plus a spotlight on tableside whiskey carts

EDITOR’S LET TER PEOPLE & PL ACES

PERFECT G E TAWAY Your guide to downtown Denver

O . C .’ S O W N Costa Mesa alt-rock band Greer makes a comeback.

C U LT U R E P H I L E UC Irvine scholar and host of the “Historians on Housewives” podcast

O.C . E VENT S Spectacular concerts and more this month

8 ORA NGE CO A ST • November 2021

ROOMS WE LOVE A Newport Beach bathroom inspired by 1970s British rock ’n’ roll and glam

FOOD & DRINK Litt le Sister at Irvine Spectrum

O . C .’ S B E S T Five local spots for classic cocktails

108 PI NE TRESROENS TO F

Owner and artistic director of Ballet Project OC and Ballet Project TV

108 WEB EXT R A S

Ian Tenzer, executive chef at Puesto, cooks irresistible yellowfin tuna tacos in Cathy Thomas’ kitchen. orangecoast.com /cathythomas Get the latest updates on O.C.’s dining scene. orangecoast.com /food-drink View more pictures of local chefs’ gardens. orangecoast.com/gardens

@ORANGECOASTMAG

photographs by E M I LY J . D AV I S

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EDITOR’S LETTER

he change of seasons and longer nights offer the chance to get cozy and indulge in some holiday spirit. For Orange Coast, that means our annual Whiskey Classic, this year on Nov. 18 (get tickets at orangecoast.com/whiskey). You’ll find plenty of ways to wet your whistle around the county before that, and we point you to a few spots throughout this issue. My choice for sipping is usually bourbon, and a good Old-Fashioned is always high on my list. Our beer and cocktails expert Greg Nagel suggests his favorite places to get five classic drinks on Page 54—he likes the Old-Fashioned at The Cellar in Fullerton. If you’re closer to the coast, try the same drink at Marché Moderne: It’s a generous pour with friendly staff who make you feel like an old friend. The one I tried at new Poppy & Seed in Anaheim was delightful with walnut bitters for a little more sweetness. If you want to make it a special occasion, the whiskey cart at Pelican Grill (Page 96) lets you choose your combination of whiskey and bitters, and the drink is prepared tableside. It pairs perfectly with fall menu items such as butternut squash soup and scrumptious shrimp and grits. I’ve even enjoyed a more casual Old-Fashioned at George’s Café before a show at Segerstrom Center; sipping while watching attendees scurry to the theater doors is a lovely reminder of how lucky we are to experience live performances again (pick one or two this month from our list starting on Page 30). Our Whiskey Classic event is a good way to try some new brands or spread the word about your favorites. The last time we did this in person, everyone was raving about Skrewball Peanut Butter Whiskey. That didn’t sound appetizing to me, but after many adventurous drinkers vouched for it, I finally gave in and tried some. Delicious, and always fun to learn something new! We hope you’ll find plenty of inspiration for novel ventures in this issue and this holiday season.

MS. AL AN GIBBONS

E D I T O R-I N- C H I E F

A G I B B O N S @ O R A N G E C O A S T.C O M

M Y F AV O R I T E T H I N G S I N T H I S I S S U E I’m a Denver native; every time I go back, I’m surprised by the growth downtown.

This elegant yet approachable bathroom draws me in like a giant hug.

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PA G E 46

12 ORA NGE CO A ST • November 2021

It’s inspiring to see so many artisans making their crafts here in O.C. PA G E 64

Chef-centric gardens make the menus in Orange County even more seasonal. PA G E 80

illustration by M A R T H A N A P I E R

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E D I T O R-I N - C H I E F Alan Gibbons

PRESIDENT AND PUBLISHER Shelby J. Russell srussell@orangecoast.com

DESIGN DIRECTOR Andrew Hart

DIRECTOR OF SALES Carly Allen callen@orangecoast.com

SENIOR EDITOR Astgik Khatchatryan

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT Linda Wallis Goldstein lgoldstein@orangecoast.com

D I G I TA L M E D I A E D I T O R Michelle Pagaran

ACCOUNT DIRECTORS Randy Bilsley, rbilsley@orangecoast.com Edward Estrada, eestrada@orangecoast.com Richard Lockhart, rlockhart@orangecoast.com

ST YLE & HOME EDITOR Chelsea Raineri DINING CRITIC Gretchen Kurz

HEAD OF EXPERIENTIAL MARKETING Traci Takeda, ttakeda@orangecoast.com

PHOTOGRAPHER Emily J. Davis

PRODUCTION DIRECTOR Denise Philbert, dphilbert@lamag.com

EVENTS EDITOR Robin Jones

P R O D U C T I O N C O O R D I N AT O R Natalie Malins, nmalins@lamag.com

COPY EDITOR Shayna Sobol

ADVERTISING ART DIRECTOR Sheila Ramezani, sramezani@lamag.com

EDITORIAL INTERNS Lily Lopez, Sofia Robles, Ysabelle Salazar

S T R AT E G Y A N D PA R T N E R S H I P S D I R E C T O R Suzy Starling, sstarling@lamag.com

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Soleil Easton, Benjamin Epstein, Greg Nagel, Laura Sturza, Valerie Takahama, Cathy Thomas

D I G I TA L C O O R D I N AT O R S Jocelyn Garcia, jgarcia@orangecoast.com Julianne Quirong, jquirong@lamag.com

CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Hannah Agosta, Martha Napier

S A L E S A N D M A R K E T I N G C O O R D I N AT O R Ashlee Glaser, aglaser@orangecoast.com

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EASY ACCESS OFF TUSTIN RANCH ROAD, NEAR BARRANCA IN TUSTIN Photo: Vibrant Indian Cuisine by Master Chef Sanjeev Kapor at The Yellow Chilli

YOUR JOURNEY. YOUR SCHOOL.

APPLICATIONS NOW OPEN FOR 2022-2023 SCHOOL YEAR! Parents with prospective students entering grades 9-12 in Fall 2022 can apply now at www.sagehillschool.org/apply APPLICATION DEADLINE IS FEBRUARY 15, 2022

20402 Newport Coast Drive Newport Coast, CA 92657 sagehillschool.org

PROMOTION

LETTER FROM HEAD OF SCHOOL PATRICIA MERZ have worked in education for the past 25 years, and the challenge and focus of my work has always remained the same: to prepare students to be leaders for tomorrow in a world that continues to change and evolve. Over the last year and a half, we saw the world change in ways many of us could have never seen coming. But through it all, Sage Hill School never wavered. We pivoted quickly to an exemplary distance learning model, but my primary focus was always for our students to be able to return to campus safely. Sage Hill was one of the first and only high schools in Orange County to reopen its doors last fall, and we remained open five days a week for all students who chose to return in person. Other students opted to learn from home, and our outstanding educators used technology and ingenuity to seamlessly teach classes in a hybrid model and make sure no student was left behind. This year, we are happy to report that all of our students are back on campus. I believe strongly that the value of the Sage Hill experience comes with in-person learning and engagement inside the classroom. For over 20 years, Sage Hill School has been providing students in grades 9-12 with a transformative high school experience, and not even a pandemic could stop us! Since I became Head of School in 2014, many families have asked me, “why Sage Hill?” I never get tired of answering this question because I love sharing all of the many reasons why Sage Hill is remarkable. Here are just a few: Sage Hill is the only nonprofit, independent high school in Orange County set on 28 beautiful acres in Newport Coast. Our average class size of 14 ensures all students ge personalized attention. We offer a 34:1 counselor-to-student ratio in our unique College Counseling program that begins in ninth grade. Sage Hill emphasizes the application of knowledge — not just the acquisition of knowledge — throughout our innovative curriculum and our signature programs. The Sage Center is home to a number of these extraordinary programs, including the Sage Hill Internship Program, Service Learning, Spring at Sage and a robust Advisory program that gives students a sense of belonging from their very first dayon campus. (You can read more about those programs on this page.)

WHAT SETS SAGE HILL APART? College Counseling: With a 34:1 student-tocounselor ratio, Sage Hill offers a highly personalized, student-centered college application process focused on helping each student find the best college fit based on their academic profile, aspirations, talents and interests. Service Learning: Service Learning provides students opportunities to explore community service opportunities and help create positive change. Through community partnerships, students are encouraged to develop and/or seek out service needs in the local and global communities that match their educational, personal and social interests. Spring at Sage: Students are offered experiential opportunities for leadership, creativity and risk-taking beyond the traditional classroom. After spring final exams, students spend a week participating in an intensive seminar or a group travel program. Sage Hill Internship Program: Career exploration and assistance with resumes, interviews and job applications prepare students for work opportunities. SHIP offers real-life, hands-on work experience and exposure to potential careers. Sage Connected: A unique hybrid of online and in-person learning experiences in the humanities, mathematics and science transform the traditional classroom into a flexible learning opportunity. Advisory Program: The advisory program provides guidance, mentoring and a sense of belonging from the very first day of school. Advisors encourage personal and academic growth of each student by fostering positive relationships and supporting each student throughout their Sage Hill School journey.

They are part of something they can be proud of. So why Sage Hill? It’s all about the compassionate people, the inspiring educators and the endless amount of opportunities. It is a place where students engage in the process of their own learning, understand their skills and deﬁne and develop their passions.

But the best reason to apply to Sage Hill is for the community -- the real heart of Sage Hill School. Our students are happy, healthy and interesting. They stand out among their peers as motivated and creative, and they truly take advantage of all of the amazing opportunities Sage Hill provides them.

And I welcome you to join us! Our beautiful campus is open for tours for prospective students, and we are currently accepting applications for the 2022-2023 school year.

Every year, I hear from students and parents that the Sage Hill experience impacts the entire family in a positive way.

Sincerely, Patricia Merz - Head of School, Sage Hill School

Please visit our website at www.sagehillschool.org for more information, and I hope to see you on our campus soon!

• GOOD TIMES • morongocasinoresort.com

PEOPLE

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IN PL AIN SIGHT  T H E S C E N E An illuminated tunnel along Bosque Trail in Irvine  G E T T I N G T H E R E The trail system, which features 1.5 miles of multiuse paths and native plants, can be found at the Great Park.  E X P L O R E R C R E D I T Brenda Rios @brenda.in.wanderlust  B E H I N D T H E S H O T “I took my daughter to the playground nearby and decided to take a stroll on the trail when I found this cool tunnel.”

33°40'42.5"N 117°44'07.5"W

November 2021 • OR A NGE C OAST 19

PEOPLE

PLACES ’ H O O D S

R A R E R E V E L AT I O N S

A busy corridor in COSTA MESA offers surprising food and self-care options. by Robin Jones

Ú G O O D TO KN OW

Love the housemade, cashewbased cheeses at Vegan by El Zamorano? You can pick up a packaged tub or two to take home. V E G A N I C N A IL S PA Even the most basic pedicure at this new salon comes with a made-to-order aromatic herbal foot soak, steeped like tea in a French press with peppermint, lemongrass, or lavender. Splurge for a VIP treatment, and you can upgrade your soak to one of the special herbal blends created to soothe anxiety or provide an energy boost. Sugar scrubs and skin masks are also freshly mixed for each treatment. 1460 BAKER ST., 714-429-9622

20 ORA NGE CO AST • November 2021

V E G A N BY E L Z A MO R A N O

MO S COW D E LI

IMPROV CO LLE C TI V E

David Aguilar grew up working in his parents’ restaurant in Santa Ana, and when he went vegan, he started re-creating the dishes his parents served with plant-based ingredients. Now he serves those dishes at this restaurant: tacos, quesadillas, burritos, and tortas made with vegan chorizo, carnitas, and asada. The vegan cheese and cashew crema are made in-house, and if you didn’t know they were vegan, you’d never guess. 3011

This unassuming grocery doesn’t look like much at first glance. But as you browse the aisles, you’ll find all kinds of intriguing goodies imported from Russia and Eastern Europe. There’s a refrigerator case stocked with Russian beer and soda, shelves packed with pickled vegetables and jams, and tables filled with cookies and spices. Don’t skip the deli, which serves sandwiches on dark rye bread; borscht; stuffed cabbage rolls; and Russian honey cake. 3015

A draw for aspiring improv comedy performers and those who just like watching their performances, this small storefront theater offers classes and shows. Take a six-week improv or sketch-comedy writing course, drop in for the two-hour Wednesday sessions to brush up on scene fundamentals with veteran improv performers, or come by for one of the Friday and Saturday shows, which feature some of the best improv troupes in Orange County.

HARBOR BLVD., 657-247-5200

HARBOR BLVD., 714-546-3354

1215 BAKER ST., 714-931-9168

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

@orangecoastmag More info: orangecoast.com

PEOPLE

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G E T A W A Y

D OWNTOWN D E N V E R Ditch the car and walk everywhere in this happening city center. by Alan Gibbons

22 ORA NGE CO AST • November 2021

DINE WEST YOUNG MAN

With a motto of “Seek, never settle,” West of Surrender Saloon & Kitchen is a family-owned place with an Old West vibe. Rather than a dark saloon, it’s light and cheerful with huge windows that overlook the 16th Street Mall. Try the Front Range grain bowl ($14.25) featuring wheat berry, lentil, quinoa, and lemon vinaigrette. Or have lamb sliders with peppercorn aioli and Gruyère on brioche ($12.50). Be sure to save room for the bourbon basil peach crumble ($12).

RAREFIED AIR

If being a mile high isn’t enough, venture to 54thirty, the rooftop bar at Le Meridien Denver that adds another 150 feet to your experience. The open-air venue boasts stunning views of the mountains and the city. Cozy lounging areas include fire pits and surround the vast bar. Go all-in with the local vibe and order the Colorado mule, which includes vodka, ginger beer, apri-

ABOVE 54thirty rooftop bar provides amazing views of the Mile High City.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF LE MERIDIEN DENVER

ports fans, arts enthusiasts, foodies, and the monumentally hip collide here with plenty to keep everyone busy. Four pro teams play home games within about a mile of each other, so bars and restaurants downtown are usually bustling. Add in the performing arts center and a new interactive experience, and you’ve got attractions for days. Ignore high prices for rental cars. You can take the light rail directly from the airport, forgo driving entirely, and get all your steps in while you tour this vibrant area.

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PEOPLE

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L O C A L

“Dazzle at Baur’s on 15th and Curtis is really good, fun, and exciting. It has great live jazz music, amazing cocktails, and daily specials that are all made in-house.” —CHRIS MARCUS, DENVER NATIVE AND LONGTIME RESIDENT

cot liqueur, and lime juice ($12). The rooms at Le Meridien are bright and modern ($262 and up), and the lobby chandelier is worth many photos on its own. T R A N S F O R M AT I V E A R T

Describing the experience as a combination of jungle gym, haunted house, children’s museum, and immersive art exhibit, the creators of Santa Fe-based Meow Wolf opened the Denver location in September. Meow Wolf Convergence Station leads visitors of all ages through a four-story interactive world of mystery and creativity, featuring work from 300 artists ($40 to $45). Eat first and plan to spend a few hours—reentry is prohibited. Take the light rail from Union Station—the E and W lines go directly there. TEA FOR YOU

Take a respite with a refined afternoon tea service at the Brown Palace Hotel. Sip from delicate

M AR K YOU R C ALE NDAR Created by Icon Fair from the Noun Project

cups while nibbling on finger sandwiches and house-made pastries ($42 per person). Upgrade to the Royal Palace package, which includes a glass of Kir Royale ($48). Live music sets the elegant tone. You might even be inclined to don a hat for the occasion. O L D S H O P, N E W S P O T

An institution in Denver since 1971, Tattered Cover Book Store has two locations downtown, the newest in McGregor Square. The twostory shop has plenty of nooks for mulling over the latest bestsellers. Knowledgeable employees are happy to offer recommendations, and there’s a welcoming children’s area. Wander outside of the store and find yourself in the middle of the latest gathering space. McGregor Square sits near Coors Field and houses The Rally Hotel, eateries such as The Grandstand Cafe and Carmine’s Italian Restaurant, an outdoor plaza for concerts and movies, and Milepost Zero Food Hall.

A DINING ROAD TRIP

Blending flavors from Mexico and the Southwest, Kachina Cantina welcomes patrons with colorful wall murals and a lively bar. Sip on tasty margaritas in an open setting, or go nonalcoholic with the Raised Garden agua fresca ($6) featuring blackberry, blueberry, and lime. Order tacos a la carte ($3.50 to $5.50) and make them Navajo style with fry bread. Kachina Cantina anchors the Dairy Block, a historic area that includes shops, bars, and The Maven Hotel. SUITE SLEEP

For a central stay with plenty of extra space, try one of the 27 suites at the Denver Grand Hyatt ($252 and up). The spacious living areas include dining tables, large closets, and king-size beds, plus accessibility to all the things you want to see downtown. Keep up your exercise routine with an indoor pool, fitness center, outside track, and tennis court high above the city.

Nov. 19 and 20: “The Hip Hop Nutcracker” combines contemporary dance moves, a DJ, an emcee, and the classic Tchaikovsky score for a remixed version of the show. Buell Theatre, denvercenter.org

24 ORA NGE CO AST • November 2021

P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E S Y O F M E O W W O L F A N D S A G E R E S TA U R A N T C O N C E P T S

LEFT Meow Wolf Convergence Station opened in Denver in September. RIGHT Try the fry bread tacos from Kachina Cantina.

V I S I T U S AT S O U T H C O A S T P L A Z A

CA N A DAG O O S E .C O M

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BAND ON THE RISE

Costa Mesa-bred alt-rock band Greer embarks on a new journey after a year of silence. by Soleil Easton

FINDING HIS GROOVE Ú Inspired by his father’s passion for rock ’n’ roll,

Thomson’s musical journey took off in the sixth grade. “The first band I created was for a talent show. It was a small gig, but a pivotal moment where I discovered this is what I want to do for the rest of my life. I never thought I would get an opportunity like Greer. The idea of having a band full time as your main career is the craziest, most outrageous thing in the world, and here we are. It’s a really cool feeling.”

ON THE ROAD Ú With only two released songs and about 10 live

performances, Greer went on its first North American tour in 2019, opening for L.A. punk rock band The Regrettes. “Going on tour helped smooth out every rough edge and made us way better musicians and songwriters. It was the last thing we needed to be a complete band.”

CREATIVE NIGHTMARE AMID LOCKDOWN Ú Thomson was frustrated by an artistic block that came

26 O RA NGE CO A ST • November 2021

ITCHING TO PERFORM Ú After a grueling year, Greer took a step toward normalcy

by announcing a fall warm-up tour with The Flaming Lips— one of Thomson’s favorite bands. “I had never anticipated something more than performing with The Flaming Lips. Ever since I was a little kid, The Flaming Lips have been a huge inspiration to me musically. I’m incredibly honored to have gotten the opportunity to play with them live, especially at the Pacific Amphitheatre, which is literally walking distance from my house.”

PHOTOGRAPH BY ZAMAR VELEZ

ne of Orange County’s hottest new bands is in the midst of a whirlwind comeback, having just played at Ohana Fest in Dana Point and opening for The Flaming Lips on their fall tour, including a stop at The Pacific Amphitheatre. Bassist Seth Thomson (top right) formed Greer in 2018 with (clockwise) guitarist Corbin Jacques, singer Josiah, and drummer Lucas Ovalle. The group’s debut single, “Song for Me,” and follow-up, “Bittersweet,” earned fans and a deal with Epitaph Records. Greer released its first EP, “Lullaby for You,” in early 2020 ( just a year after its members graduated from high school) and is poised to release a second EP before year’s end. We spoke with Thomson about the group’s rapid success and its long-awaited return to the stage.

about during the pandemic, with everything that would normally inspire creativity on pause. “During quarantine, we all felt the pressure to write an album, but we were all so unmotivated and felt discouraged. We didn’t write any of it, and we made some music we really didn’t like. It felt like we were growing more and more apart. I began to question if we were going to last and if I could actually do this for the rest of my life. It took a lot of self-reflection, getting over my internal anxieties, and communicating with my band to get to a point where I started actually writing music that I enjoyed.”

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Gift Them Childhood

Philanthropy is the Best Present At CHOC, we know the journey to wellness has its ups and downs. But we’re here for kids each day—even the holidays. Our deep commitment is to help them get back to being kids—and with your help, we’re transforming pediatric healthcare in Orange County and beyond. Learn more about CHOC philanthropy at foundation.choc.org

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BACK TO REALIT Y

UC Irvine scholars analyze the girls’ trips and glam squads of Bravo reality shows on their podcast, “Historians on Housewives.” by Valerie Takahama

odcaster Kacey Calahane, a Ph.D. candidate in history, uses “The Real Housewives of Orange County,” “Southern Charm,” and other shows to bring history alive for students and Bravo fans and to forge connections with other scholars. She shares hosting duties with fellow “Bravo-demics,” or Bravo academics, Max Speare, her husband and fellow doctoral candidate, and Jessica Millward, an associate professor of history. What’s the connection between reality TV and the study of history? Ú A big thing for us is the way that Bravo offers this great entry point into conversations about race and class and womanhood, and even the way that wealthy white women have historically been a part of the project of building the American empire. (As) historians, we start watching as a guilty pleasure and then all of a sudden, we are seeing little resonances of our work on-screen. There’s a so-what question in our work: Why does it matter? Well, we see it continuing to play out in pop culture now, even if we are writing about things that are generations—hundreds of years—old or older. Can you give an example of historical research reflected on a show? Ú In our first season, we interviewed a medieval historian, Dr. Jennifer Edwards, and she writes about nuns at the Sainte-Croix Abbey. She was talking about how it can be really difficult to teach 28 ORA NGE C O AST • November 2021

medieval history and have students care about it. But she can say, well, on “Housewives,” you see these fights over who’s going to sit next to who, and they jockey for placement and attention. She says that’s no different than the medieval nuns at this abbey. Personality clashes and alcohol-fueled arguments are mainstays of the shows. What can we learn from that? Ú In these arguments, we see these women kind of go toe-to-toe about the way that you define womanhood or motherhood or any number of issues at the table. For as much as these shows are a vehicle for portraying women’s relationships and all that complexity and messiness, we really see both an antifeminist and a feminist tension at play. All sorts of arguments have been made by viewers of the shows. Are these shows feminist or are these antifeminist shows? (The writer) Roxane Gay has famously said, these are very feminist shows, because of the depiction of female relationships. Whereas

someone like Gloria Steinem has insisted that the shows are incredibly anti-feminist, and she calls them a minstrel show for women. What are the “must-hear” episodes of the podcast? Ú One episode that was really emotional for all of us I think was Nora Lessersohn’s episode in Season 1 about historical memory and the Armenian genocide. (A Ph.D. candidate

at University College London), she talked about “Keeping Up With the Kardashians” a bit, and we did talk Bravo, but I think it was such a great episode for thinking about the way historical memory works and the way that something that is useful about reality TV is being able to kind of move through and share and heal from our own traumas with moments that we see some of these reality TV stars go through. photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

A D VER TISEMEN T

According to Dr. Clarke, 40 percent of the general population will experience chronic pain during their lifetime. “I see this as a promising treatment for so many conditions, including slipped discs, pinched nerves, fibromyalgia, and a host of chronic pain disorders,” says Dr. Clarke. “It has the capability to tap into the feedback loop in the nerve, unlocking the door to a pain-free life. Best of all, this new medical technology doesn’t impair cognitive function the way long term use of pain medication does. This is the alternative we have been looking for.”

Teryn Clarke, MD and Ivar E. Roth, DPM/MPH

NEWPORT BEACH DOCTOR DISCOVERS A MEDICAL ADVANCE FOR CURING CHRONIC PAIN

PAINCUR™

The pain in Jeff Goffman’s injured thumb was so debilitating, he had planned to have surgery. William Manrow had eight back surgeries but still complained of sciatica and uncomfortable stiffness in his legs.

These patients and many more are no longer feeling discomfort thanks to a newly developed treatment administered by Dr. Ivar Roth, Hoag Hospital’s highly accredited Founding Chairman of Podiatric Surgery. The treatment, trademarked as PAINCUR™ entails several injections of an FDA approved drug into the exactly pinpointed base of the nerve. Alleviation of pain is almost immediate and long lasting or permanent, according to patient testimonials. Part acupuncture, derived from wisdom of the ages, part state-of-the-art medical technology, using an advanced drug, and part intuitive medical knowledge, derived from Dr. Roth’s vast experience and expertise in his specialty field, this new treatment is viewed as a revolutionary and long awaited alternative to other forms of pain mitigation that can be addictive, invasive or cause unwanted side effects. Dr. Roth explains the methodology of this newly developed protocol, saying, “There is a neurological connection that exists between the foot and other parts of the body, including the knee, hip, back and sciatic region. The same neurological connection also exists between the hand and upper body parts. By applying treatment to the nerve endings in the hand, we have been able to remediate pain in the shoulders, neck and even the hand itself."

Jeff Goffman, a recent patient, claims his chronic thumb pain was remediated immediately upon treatment. “I tried everything, including PRP, months of rehab, and consultations with an orthopedic surgeon. The pain was so debilitating, I was ready to try surgery,” he says. “After the first treatment, it was like the pain had never even existed.” “My pain was so severe that I could not sit for more than a few minutes,” says Manrow, who, after treatment, got much welcome relief from his debilitating discomfort. “The improvement of my condition is remarkable.” With the efficacy of the treatment proven over and over again, Dr. Roth reached out to his trusted colleague and respected Newport Beach neurologist, Dr. Teryn Clarke, who immediately recognized the value of this protocol and has since joined Dr. Roth to administer this effective method of pain alleviation to her patients.

DR. IVAR ROTH

So far, 100 percent of Dr. Roth’s patients claimed to have their pain significantly diminished or totally remediated after completion of the PAINCUR™ protocol. “I knew this had the potential to cure pain but even I was surprised that it has been successful on every single patient I have injected,” says Dr. Roth, whose office staff has extensively interviewed each patient to determine the treatment’s efficacy. Relieving pain with the PAINCUR™ method is the first step of treatment for many of Dr. Roth’s patients. A very important aspect of this treatment is to also take care of the underlying cause of pain, according to Dr. Roth. “Foot, leg, knee, hip and back pain is typically rooted in improper function of the foot,” explains Dr. Roth, who has developed a unique orthotic to correct the gait and improve posture. “When the foot positioning is corrected, the hip sinks back into its socket and the back straightens out. This restored alignment remediates the stress that otherwise inflicts the foot, joints, leg and back. As a foot specialist I have worked with so many patients seeking to restore the quality of life that comes with pain free mobility. Being able to offer a revolutionary and highly sophisticated treatment option that works is truly gratifying.” If you are suffering from pain call Dr. Roth’s office to schedule a free consultation and complimentary initial first test shot. Patient testimonials available to view on YouTube: PainCur. Dr. Ivar E. Roth DPM/MPH Concierge Podiatry and Spa 495 Old Newport Boulevard, Suite 300 Newport Beach, CA 92663 949-647-4904 | www.paincur.net

• Highly accredited and trained in foot and ankle surgery at Mt. Sinai Hospital of Chicago with world-renowned podiatrist Dr. Lowell Scott Weil Sr. • Founding Chairman of Podiatric Surgery at Hoag Hospital of Newport Beach. • First podiatrist awarded full orthopedic privileges for foot and ankle surgery at Hoag Hospital, Newport Beach.

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NOV. 11 BALLET HISPÁNICO

The New York City dance company has performed for more than 3 million people in 11 countries over its 50-year history. It will present three works here: Vicente Nebrada’s “Arabesque,” Annabelle Lopez Ochoa’s “Tiburones,” and Gustavo Ramírez Sansano’s “18+1.” Irvine Barclay Theatre, 4242 Campus Drive, Irvine, 949854-4646, thebarclay.org

NOV. 5 AND 6 DAVID FOSTER

One of the most successful record producers in history, Foster has written songs for everyone from Gloria Estefan to *NSYNC to Earth, Wind & Fire. He has also produced multiple gold and platinum albums, won 16 Grammys, and created the soundtracks for “The Bodyguard” and “St. Elmo’s Fire.” He’ll be accompanied by the Pacific Symphony. Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall, 615 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-755-5788, pacificsymphony.org NOV. 7 GIPSY KINGS

DON’T MISS IN NOVEMBER

A spectacular lineup of concerts and more by Robin Jones NOV. 3

NOV. 5

JERUSALEM QUARTET WITH PINCHAS ZUKERMAN AND AMANDA FORSY TH

CHRISTIAN JAMES HAND: THE GENIUS OF QUEEN’S “BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY”

Grammy Award-winning violinist Pinchas Zukerman and Amanda Forsyth, former principal cello for Canada’s National Arts Centre Orchestra, join the Jerusalem Quartet for this concert. The husband-and-wife duo will perform works by Bruckner, Brahms, and Dvorák. Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall, 615 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 949-553-2422, philharmonicsociety.org

The KLOS-FM radio host took music lovers through Beatles songs at Samueli Theater in early 2020. In this show, he’ll lead audiences through the elements of Queen’s “Bohemian Rhapsody” by playing the individual tracks of the actual studio recording: drums, bass, guitars, piano, and Freddie Mercury’s vocals. Samueli Theater, 615 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-556-2787, scfta.org

30 ORA NGE CO AST • November 2021

NOV. 9 DAVID SEDARIS

Known for his wit and his unique insights into the human condition, the writer and humorist’s bestselling essay collections have been published in more than 25 languages. He writes regularly for The New Yorker, produces radio stories for “This American Life,” and has written a number of plays with his sister Amy Sedaris. He released his most recent book, “A Carnival of Snackery,” in October. Irvine Barclay Theatre, 4242 Campus Drive, Irvine, 949-854-4646, thebarclay.org NOV. 9 THROUGH 14 “JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR”

This revival of the hit 1971 musical tells the story of the last weeks of Jesus’s life from Judas’s perspective. With new choreography from Drew McOnie, who worked on “King Kong” and “Strictly Ballroom,” the show fea-

PHOTOGRAPH BY SUSAN BESTUL

E V E N T S

The musical group that popularized rumba flamenco first formed in 1978 and hit the Latin pop charts with “Bamboléo” and “Volare.” The musicians have been nominated for the Grammy for Best World Music Album five times, winning for their 2013 album, “Savor Flamenco.” City National Grove of Anaheim, 2200 E. Katella Ave., Anaheim, 714-712-2700, citynationalgroveofanaheim.com

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PLACES NOV. 12

CIRQUE MUSICA HOLIDAY SPECTACUL AR

Combining music with acrobatics, this show features a live orchestra playing favorite holiday songs onstage while aerialists and acrobats perform around them. It’s like a concert and a circus all in one, with a heartwarming holiday feel. City National Grove of Anaheim, 2200 E. Katella Ave., Anaheim, 714-712-2700, citynationalgroveofanaheim.com tures Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice’s famous score, including the iconic songs “Superstar” and “I Don’t Know How to Love Him.” Segerstrom Hall, 600 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-556-2787, scfta.org NOV. 11 THROUGH 13 MENDELSSOHN’S VIOLIN CONCERTO

Pacific Symphony teams with guest conductor Teddy Abrams and violinist Rachel Barton Pine for this program combining contemporary and time-honored music. Starting with Gabriela Lena Frank’s “Concertino Cusqueño,” the concert will continue with Mendelssohn’s Violin Concerto and Caroline Shaw’s “Entr’acte” and conclude with Copland’s “Appalachian Spring.” Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall, 615

Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-755-5788, pacificsymphony.org NOV. 12 MODIGLIANI QUARTET

One of the most sought-after chamber orchestras in the world, this quartet has toured the globe, playing venues such as Carnegie Hall in New York, Wigmore Hall in London, and

the Paris Philharmonic. The quartet will play selections from Mozart, Bartók, and Schubert. Irvine Barclay Theatre, 4242 Campus Drive, Irvine, 949-553-2422, philharmonicsociety.org NOV. 12 AN EVENING WITH FATHER GREG BOYLE

The Jesuit priest and bestselling author founded Homeboy Industries more than 30

WE’RE BACK! Renew Christmas traditions with Paciﬁc Chorale live in concert this December! Carols by Candlelight

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32 ORA NGE CO A ST • November 2021

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P H O T O G R A P H C O U R T E S Y O F C I T Y N AT I O N A L G R O V E O F A N A H E I M

Our Lady Queen of Angels Catholic Church, Newport Beach

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years ago, and it’s now the largest gang rehabilitation program in the world. He has spoken around the country, received honors from the White House, and was inducted into the California Hall of Fame. Chapman University President Daniele Struppa will join the conversation. Musco Center for the Arts, 415 N. Glassell St., Orange, 714-997-6812, muscocenter.org NOV. 18 POSTMODERN JUKEBOX

Pianist Scott Bradlee created this musical collective in 2011 when he brought together five fellow musicians to record “A Motown Tribute to Nickelback.” A decade later, the group continues to recast modern pop songs as swing, ragtime, and jazz tunes. The group has covered songs by everyone from Katy Perry to Bruno Mars and featured more than 70 performers in shows around the world. Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall, 615 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-556-2787, scfta.org OPENS NOV. 19 “SAM HYDE HARRIS, SEEING THE UNUSUAL”

415 Avenida Granada, San Clemente, 949-4982139, casaromantica.org NOV. 20 PARSONS DANCE COMPANY

Founded by choreographer David Parsons in 1985, this contemporary dance troupe is known for the athleticism of its dancers and the joy and energy it brings to its performances. The company has performed across the globe; this show marks the troupe’s Segerstrom Center debut. Segerstrom Hall, 600 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-556-2787, scfta.org NOV. 20 ENRIQUE IGLESIAS AND RICKY MARTIN

With three Grammy Awards and nine platinum albums between them, these two pop superstars are known around the world. Fans can expect to hear hits like “Bailamos” and “Livin’ la Vida Loca,” along with songs from the singers’ recent albums: Martin’s “Pausa” and Iglesias’ “Final.” Honda Center, 2695 E. Katella Ave., Anaheim, 714-704-2500, hondacenter.com NOV. 20

A painter based in Los Angeles from 1904Tree until CareSTEVE Superior 9/3/03 Page 2 T YRELL11:35 AM his death in 1977, Harris was best known for The jazz singer made his name performing his desert landscapes. He also worked as an “The Way You Look Tonight” and “The Sunny artist for advertising agencies, and this exhibit, Side of the Street” in the movie “Father of the curated by Maurine St. Gaudens and Joseph Bride.” His nine studio albums feature jazz Morsman, includes fine and commercial art. standards and routinely top the jazz charts. Casa Romantica Cultural Center and Gardens,

He has also hosted a radio show on Kjazz 88.1 every weeknight since 2015. Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert Hall, 615 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 949-553-2422, scfta.org NOV. 21 TRIO BARCL AY

The Barclay Theatre’s ensemble-in-residence features Dennis Kim on violin, Jonah Kim on cello, and Sean Kennard on piano. The group made its debut in June; in this concert, the trio will play Paul Schoenberg’s “Café Music,” Brahms’ Piano Trio No. 1 in B major, and a world premiere from Jie Wang. Irvine Barclay Theatre, 4242 Campus Drive, Irvine, 949-8544646, thebarclay.org OPENS NOV. 26 “STRIKING 12”

A grumpy New Yorker worn out by the holiday season gets a visit from a door-to-door saleswoman promising to pull him out of his funk in time for New Year’s Eve in this pop-rock musical. Witty and offbeat, it’s a holiday show for people who hate holiday shows. Chance Theater, 5522 E. La Palma Ave., Anaheim, 714777-3033, chancetheater.com NOV. 26 THROUGH 28 CHRISTMAS WITH THE ALLEY CATS

This four-man doo-wop group has been Jay Leno’s opening act for seven years and has

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NOV. 20 VERONICA SWIFT

A jazz and bebop vocalist, Swift recorded her first album when she was 9 years old. Since then, she has toured with Wynton Marsalis, Michael Feinstein, Chris Botti, and Benny Green and released four more albums. Her most recent, “This Bitter Earth,” came out in March. Samueli Theater, 615 Town Center Drive, Costa Mesa, 714-556-2787, scfta.org

performed with the Coasters, the Drifters, and the Beach Boys. They’ve also performed for U.S. troops in Iraq and Afghanistan and at the White House. In their annual Christmas show, they perform holiday favorites in a 1950s style. Curtis Theatre, 1 Civic Center Circle, Brea, 714990-7722, curtistheatre.com OPENS NOV. 26 “A CHRISTMAS STORY”

Based on the classic movie, this play tells the story of Ralphie, a 9-year-old who fantasizes about getting a Red Ryder Range 200 Shot BB gun for Christmas, even though his mother tells him he’ll shoot his eye out. The stage show features all the novelty lamps, pink bunny pajamas, and playground bullies fans of the film

could hope for. Camino Real Playhouse, 31776 El Camino Real, San Juan Capistrano, 949-4898082, caminorealplayhouse.org NOV. 29

features Irish actor Sheelagh Cullen and a cast of singers and dancers from Ireland. Irvine Barclay Theatre, 4242 Campus Drive, Irvine, 949-854-4646, thebarclay.org

“CHRISTMAS FROM A CELTIC TABLE”

MO RE O NL INE!

Traditional Irish dancing, storytelling, singing, and music celebrate the Christmas season in this show. The family-friendly performance

O.C. Scene

orangecoast.com/events

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OPENINGS

Over 300 food and wine lovers gathered at Bowers Museum in Santa Ana for the annual Table for Ten gourmet experience. Guests enjoying a scrumptious five-course tableside repast with wine pairings and tables uniquely decorated for the occasion. Chef Jessica Roy of Cultivar restaurant at Sherman Gardens was recognized as the event’s Honorary Celebrity Chef. The event raised $480,000 which will help grant more wishes for children battling critical illnesses in our community through the Make-A-Wish Orange County and the Inland Empire. Photo Credit: Bob Hodson and Tony Lattimore

36 ORA NGE CO A ST • November 2021

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SEGERSTOM CENTER FOR THE ARTS

TABLE FOR TEN 2021

Thankful 2021 MISSION SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO GALA HONOREES CONNIE AND DR. PETER SPENUZZA

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Capistrano Lights Nightly Program December 4–December 30, 2021

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SEASONAL CERAMICS THE FIND Plates, bowls, and cups by Costa Mesa Ceramics ($31 to $43) GOOD TO KNOW The handmade pieces come in a variety of colors throughout the year. Shop the fall line to decorate your table with plateware in hues of green, red, and yellow. WHERE costamesaceramics.com

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

November 2021 • OR A NGE COAST 39

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AT M O S P H E R E AT E L I E R

The San Juan Capistrano boutique celebrated its four-year anniversary last month. by Chelsea Raineri

alking down the hall of the Mission Promenade, you’ll come across a light, airy boutique filled with clothes and accessories inspired by the English equestrian style, or as owner and interior designer Collette Kaplan refers to it—reminiscent of Hermès. Kaplan aims to offer customers closet staples such as trousers, tops featuring high-quality stitching and buttons, and more. “We’ve really tried to focus in on wardrobe basics and then add in the novelty that is fashion forward and on trend,” Kaplan says. “We’re looking for things that are going to pull your wardrobe for the long haul.” The boutique features brands such as Vince, Velvet and Graham, and Essentiel Antwerp as well as local designs, including purses and clutches by Marian Paquette from Laguna Beach. “Her bags can take an outfit from daytime to evening,” Kaplan says. “I love the fact that they’re upcycled fabric and handmade.” The store’s most popular items include AG Jeans, sweats from Stateside, and T-shirts from ATM. See something that catches your eye while shopping online? Atmosphere Atelier offers a concierge service, which was created because of the pandemic. Customers based in Orange County can purchase an item and call to request it be delivered to them.

Atmosphere Atelier 26850 Ortega Highway San Juan Capistrano atmosphereatelier .com

BAG IT UP

Marian Paquette purse, $720 40 O RA NGE CO AST • November 2021

PERFECT PEARLS Pearl bracelet, $212

L AY E R I N G E S S E N T I A L Regina Oswald wool top, $575

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

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KNIT EVERYTHING Cozy up this season from head to toe in knitwear. by Chelsea Raineri

Local Find!

Wool-blend beanie with shearling and deer detail, $680, Burberry, South Coast Plaza, 714-556-8110

Top, $950; skirt, $1,450; boots, $1,550, Fendi, South Coast Plaza, 714-751-1111

42 ORA NGE C O AST • November 2021

Tory Sport ribbed cashmere mittens, $168, Tory Burch, South Coast Plaza, 714-689-0450

Aeron Ecole knit wrap skirt, $495, Neiman Marcus, Fashion Island, 949-759-1900

Carlsbad sweater set, $68, Amenah, Laguna Beach, 949-715-8399

Nylon socks, $305, Prada, South Coast Plaza, 714-338-2200

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FESTIVE GATHERING $10.99 million Laguna Niguel

Executive chef at Five Crowns Alejandra Padilla shares her favorite things about Thanksgiving. WISDOM FROM

a chef

THIS THANKSGIVING …

Because of COVID, we had to taper down a lot of our menus and be careful what we put on them. But now that we’ve opened up more and with Thanksgiving coming up, it’s really nice to see all the fall dishes and (to have) more creative freedom to express ourselves. We’re thinking of doing a pumpkin crème brûlée tart for this Thanksgiving.

44 ORA NGE CO AST • November 2021

FAVORITE MEMORIES …

At the end of the night (all the cooks and dishwashers) have a bite to eat and we decompress; we’re like our own family in the kitchen. We go over the night and talk about what Thanksgiving would be like with our families. It’s a long day, and we go through our ups and downs throughout the service.

THANKSGIVING DISHES …

I love making the stuffing at Five Crowns. That’s my jam. It’s so savory and buttery. It’s super hearty, but it’s also really light. At home, whatever turkey we had left over we would make mole out of it, or we would turn it into tamales.

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 7,948 square feet 4 bedrooms  5.5 bathrooms Take in views of Catalina Island from almost every room.  Of note: After cooking in the chef’s kitchen with a double oven and two large islands, enjoy dinner in the formal dining room. 1 Jencourt  Robert White, 949-307-2196 and John Stanaland, 949-689-9047

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A LITTLE ROCK ’N’ ROLL

The owner of interior design studio Prairie was inspired by the ’70s for her bathroom. by Chelsea Raineri

hannon McLaren’s British family and her time spent living in England inspired her Newport Beach home’s bathroom design. The pink hues, shape of the tub, and floral tile wall are callbacks to 1970s British rock ’n’ roll and glam. “It’s all

about balance,” she says. “Design is kind of like cooking; you’re playing around with things without overdoing it in one area.” Because she was going through a divorce during the process, McLaren says she was able to emphasize a more feminine style.

4 5 6

RUG “The rug is an heirloom from the 1920s,” McLaren says.

COUNTER “The counter is onyx, and it reminds me of a grandma’s counter. I liked the nostalgic feeling.”

46 O RA NGE CO AST • November 2021

PINK TILE “It was originally supposed to be white, but there was a delay. The pink was in stock, so it was a happy mistake.”

B AT H T U B “The wavy shape of the bathtub is representative of the ’70s.”

ROSE TREE “I think it feels romantic, and it’s nice to have for styling.”

FLORAL TILE “I found the floral tile first. I wanted something impactful, and it just sort of worked.”

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FRIED SEA BASS THE DISH Scallion oil, peanuts, herbs, ginger chili sauce, and fresh lime accompany the fish. THE DETAILS The seafood stunner is available only at dinner. THE PRICE $28 THE PL ACE Little Sister in Irvine TURN THE PAGE for our review.

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November 2021 • OR A NGE C OAST 49

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50 ORA NGE CO A ST • November 2021

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C O U R S E

LITTLE SISTER

Irvine outpost of L.A. spot wows with engaging flavors. by Gretchen Kurz

PHOTOGRAPH BY TKTK

’m early, so I kill time by counting black-clad staffers buzzing about Little Sister’s immense bar and dining room. Tables are mostly unoccupied, though not for long. “I count 22,” I announce when my dinner date appears. “And I haven’t even started on the kitchen. Let’s drink.” We agree that the Old Drunken Master, a precise Old-Fashioned by another name, easily outperforms a treacly lychee martini. Born in the spring amid the pandemic chaos all restaurants endured, the Spectrum location couldn’t be more different than LSXO, the petite O.C. sister of chef-owner Tin Vuong’s Little Sister empire based in L.A. County. As if making up for skipped meals, Irvine’s Little Sister seats 136, making it six times larger than LXSO. The stylized Vietnamese bistro opened to steady crowds and seems busier by the month. Inside, it’s a suggestive black box of a setting, planted opposite a big white box, the Apple Store—both so utterly suited to this glossy retail theme park. Our spirit-forward cocktails need assertive openers, and five tender, floppy dumplings deliver. They’re a triumph of balance between a busy filling of pork, shrimp, and crab and the opposing black vinegar and crushed peanuts. Perhaps dumplings are an easy A, but from Vuong’s consistent kitchen, they’re dependably pleasurable. Some rather subdued pâté gets clobbered by sesame seeds encrusting a quite good baguette—both are almost more enjoyable apart than together. That crock of sour tomato

jam? It’s a bizarre inclusion that goes uneaten. The menu has grown to accommodate the high-volume foot traffic, notably with a swath of lunch-only eats—deluxe takes on banh mi sandwiches and gentle chao rice porridges. Those who gripe of an $18 banh mi haven’t tried the roasted short rib version here. Beyond lunch, scores of dishes appear in categories such as Rice Paper, Noodles, Vegetables, Shellfish, and Meats, though many overlap the designations. The dumplings and pâté are listed under Essentials, which are starters that read like a bar menu. Think spiced-dusted pork rinds, octopus terrine, and puff pastry escargot poppers. Years back, I heard a local chef proclaim green papaya salad is a perfect dish, and I’ve been trying to find the perfect version ever since. Vuong’s is top tier, sporting grilled prawns atop the crunchy-juicy papaya strands with ruby-red shards of salty “Viet beef jerky” that take it nextlevel. Also in the salad lane is lime-soaked raw

896 Spectrum Center Drive Irvine 949-800-8798 dinelittlesister.com 5 BEST DISHES Green papaya salad (goi du du) Lime-marinated raw beef (bo tai chanh) Viet crepe (banh xeo) Pork chop (suon nuong) Shaky Shaky beef PRICE RANGE Lunch, $10 to $18 Starters, $8 to $19 Entrees, $19 to $55 FYI The nearest parking is in the Target lot.

LEFT Clockwise from left: beef tartare, Black Mamba, Old Drunken Master, salmon crudo, dumplings RIGHT High ceilings and open areas make for a welcoming space at Little Sister. photographs by E M I LY J . D AV I S

November 2021 • OR A NGE COAST 51

FOOD

DRINK beef and crispy shallots with a heap of rau ram (Vietnamese coriander), basil, and mint. Zesty to its core, it outshines the routine beef tartare. Dishes are effusively presented, teeming with vibrant herbs, colorful rice, and proteins redolent with fresh char. The Viet crepe is so lavish, it’s hard to know where to dive into the explosion of pork belly, singed shrimp, juicy bean sprouts, and greens barely contained by the giant, griddle-hot crepe. Lemongrass- The green papaya salad is zesty and full of herbs. marinated pork chop is juicy with a whisper of sweet acid where the pan grained filet glistening with brown butter, sears the meat, but it’s the homespun wilting a bed of peppery watercress. Succhicken-fat rice and fried egg that make culent fillets of rich, flash-fried sea bass this the plate you crave, even days later. easily take on scalding scallion oil, zingy It’s my theory that big dinner houses ginger, red chile, and crushed peanuts for must offer filet mignon and fresh salmon, a lively and welcome salmon surrogate. Desserts have an incongruous, catered or some interpretation of them, to be profitable in Orange County. Here the personality—but Yelp photos suggest inevitable entrees are Shaky Shaky Beef diners are eager to order a chocolate and fried sea bass. Sizzling chunks of whatever with a logo on top. The warm premium beef yield tender bites of fine- pecan-date tart stood out as the least-

fussy choice—and delivered pleasure that no fancy-pants meringue confection can match. My unofficial head count of kitchen staff that night at Little Sister was nine. For a grand total of 31: an impressive feat during this labor shortage. It translates to a minor miracle when you consider how ably this rookie crew turns out Vuong’s engaging fare in such volume. Clearly, Little Sister is done acting small. photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

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Salvatore Faso opened Piccolino Ristorante in 2007. Born to Sicilian immigrants in Chicago raised in the kitchens of Italy where first grandma and then his parents served local cuisine. The goal was simple: combine his lifelong experiences accumulated in the restaurants of Chicago, Italy and California with the finest ingredients, authenticity, preparation and Sicilian cuisine philosophy. His passion for the Canyons and its surrounding communities landed him in Mission Viejo. White table clothes and candlelit dining await your visit! 29719 Los Alisos Boulevard, Mission Viejo, CA 92692 949-380-7261 | piccolinomv.com

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DRINK

BEST CL ASSIC COCK TAILS These five local spots have taken age-old recipes and injected new life into each drink with quality ingredients, expert technique, and respect for the tried and true. by Greg Nagel

THE NEGRONI: BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE An easy drink boasting Campari, gin, and sweet vermouth, the negroni’s beauty is in the details. Bello’s secret lies in its ice: A different crush with various shapes and sizes ensures the drink dilutes properly. Smaller chunks melt when the drink is delivered; larger chunks keep the drink cold to the end. Newport Beach OLD-FASHIONED: THE CELL AR For the next best thing to time travel, get a happy hour Old-Fashioned at The Cellar ($9), perch at the dimly lit historic bar, and listen to fun stories from regulars over crackly record, big band music playing softly in the background. Fullerton MARGARITA: GRACIAS MADRE Diffuser-free tequila is the difference at Gracias Madre. Tequilas produced from a diffuser strip out natural flavors and aromas, which opens the door for distillers to sneak in fake additives. The Purista margarita is a simple marriage of agave and lime; once you have one, you’ll never go back to the cheap stuff. Newport Beach GIN & TONIC: VACA This simple two-ingredient drink gets cranked to 11 with botanicals. Vaca has four “Con Tonic” selections on its rotating cocktail menu that pay homage to various corners of Earth by using vastly different gins, tonics, and botanicals. Which one will you choose? Costa Mesa MARTINI: BLINKING OWL The Dirty Bird Martini at Blinking Owl is perfect: cold, dry, and a little bit dirty. There’s a precise science when concocting this classic drink, everything from the golden ratio of shake time to glass chill and the ideal serving temp. When the bartender adds the harmonic dry vermouth and a dash of brine, it will have you squawkin’ in the night. Santa Ana

MADE IN ORANGE COUNTY

Mission Viejo

Launched in 2018, G I G I ’ S S A U C E S started in the cofounders’ family kitchen. The pesto and cilantro sauces are made in small batches with ingredients such as fresh herbs, high-quality olive oil, fresh whole garlic, and imported Italian Pecorino Romano cheese. Use it to complement a variety of homemade dishes, from grilled meats and pasta to charcuterie boards and vegetable skewers. Packaged in convenient pouches ($9 each). At Mother’s Markets and Claro’s Italian Markets

54 O RA NGE CO AST • November 2021

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF GRACIAS MADRE

FOOD

DRINK D R I N K

T R E N D S

SEED-TO-STRAINER COCKTAILS

“Farm-Inspired Cocktails” is the libations-list header at THE RANCH restaurant, whose 2-acre farm provides virtually all the heirloom produce and ingredients used in the drinks. The ingenious vodka-based Caprese is made with a transporting heirloom-tomato water— which often appears as an amuse-bouche—a chef-made balsamic salt, and a garnish of firebird tomato, mozzarella, and basil. The Oaxacan Sazerac builds on mezcal and reposado tequila with house-sourced chile agave, peach bitters, and grapefruitpeel absinthe. 1025 E. BALL ROAD, ANAHEIM, 714-817-4200

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The immaculate gardens outside Studio restaurant at Montage Laguna Beach bring star ingredients to cocktails at THE LOFT , the property’s other luxury dining venue. Highlights include the cream-pressed sage in the Peaches & Dreams—a fascinating concoction that incorporates marigold- and chamomile-infused Amass vodka, peach-infused vodka, yuzu-like kabosu juice, and currants macerated with Calisaya bark bitters—and the burgundy-hued opal basil in the gimlet. 30801 SOUTH COAST HIGHWAY, LAGUNA BEACH, 949-715-6080

The entrance to the secondfloor rooftop garden at the JW Marriott is spectacular—a 70-foot wall featuring 600 titanium butterflies. The garden provides numerous ingredients for cocktails at the hotel’s 11th-floor rooftop bar PARKESTRY . The signature Prosperaty margarita uses the property’s own agave nectar and seasonal jalapenos; roofgrown strawberries and basil elevate the Sweet William’s with Buffalo Trace bourbon and Italicus liqueur. Both cocktails enhance the Disneyland fireworks. 1775 S. CLEMENTINE ST., ANAHEIM, 714-294-7800

English-inspired gastropub SIDEDOOR and prime-rib destination Five Crowns share a garden dubbed the Hazel Street Farm and personally overseen by CEO Ryan Wilson. Concoctions using ingredients from there line SideDoor’s back bar. Holy basil tincture figured in a recent Me Gusto cocktail with strawberryinfused Cimarron tequila and elderflower. Rosemary simple syrup is featured in the new BlackBerry Rose with Hendrick’s Gin, muddled blackberries, and lime. 3801 E. COAST HIGHWAY, CORONA DEL MAR, 949-760-0331

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE RANCH

Hyperlocal libations use ingredients grown on-site. by Benjamin Epstein

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MY O.C.

Shhhh … It’s My Birthday A shift in perspective makes for a more meaningful, but quiet, celebration. by Laura Sturza

’ve always had trouble with the nines. At 29, 39, and 49, I was acutely aware of time. At each crossover to a milestone birthday, I’d reflect on the past decade and ready myself for the one ahead with a mix of hope, curiosity, and dread. I recently turned 60. The year leading to it didn’t conjure up the same worries about the next big one. Like most of us trying to crawl out of our quarantine cocoons, my attention

58 O RA NGE CO AST • November 2021

has been on other matters. Most of my focus was on keeping alive and healthy, along with praying others stayed well. Given the staggering losses so many people suffered during the pandemic, my reflection on the cusp of this new decade was—who cares about a higher number? Being alive is good enough for me. In lieu of the showy, pre-COVID parties I threw for myself and loved ones, I took time to consider whether turning 60 had to be a huge turning point—or whether it could be something else. Twenty years as a Southern Californian stoked my beliefs in endless sunshine and a commitment to healthy lifestyles. These and other Orange County core values can foster faith that we’ve got a shot at prolonging youthfulness. Sixty is the new 50 sounds like an achievable goal. But that tagline feels less relevant now. What if 60 is just 60? A number and nothing more. COVID-19 upended a sense of time for many of us. In the lingo of 12-step recovery, “One Day at a Time” now seems more relevant than considering life in 10-year increments. The mindfulness practice I engage in offers a similar perspective. It suggests there’s a chance to be free from the confines of the specific day, year, and hour, and teaches me that a birthday is another day to live in a timeless manner. “We can be really alive, fully present, and very happy during breakfastmaking,” Tibetan Buddhist monk Thich Nhat Hanh wrote. “We can see making breakfast as mundane work or as a privilege—it just depends on our way of looking.” His teachings illustration by H A N N A H A G O S TA

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MY O.C. helped me picture a quieter birthday. My husband and I had left our beloved California home in 2017 to move to Maryland and help my mom. We took frequent trips West before the pandemic. I hoped to practice the monk’s ideas during my first trip back to Orange County.

T H E PA N D E M I C S H O O K U P another mindset I had about aging—the need to look youthful “for my age.” I hoped I could be like my mom. She has always looked a decade younger, including now, at 95. (And she has pulled this off without employing any highly skilled cosmetic surgeons.) Admittedly, in the past I flaunted my middle-aged status because I relished the “No, you’re not 58!” comments it elicited. Even when living in our notoriously age-conscious region, I willingly disclosed my birth year—1961. I did so while cloaked in my refuse-to-

grow-up uniform of white jeans and Converse sneakers. This year, when one of my stepdaughters learned I was turning 60, she was surprised. “I thought you were younger.” Her words didn’t give me the happy jolt I used to get when people commented on my youthfulness. I realized that any desire I had to pass for 50 is gone. The past year and a half has helped me better understand aging through the lens of a close friend who’d nursed her brother through years of cancer treatments. She prayed he would be released from pain. When he died on her birthday, she wrote: “I’ll always have a reminder to be grateful for each year I get. And certainly, I have lost the privilege of complaining about getting older.” Indeed, the tolls of the pandemic made this clear. Being alive at any age is a gift. I’ve also figured out I have no need for do-overs. In reviewing the past five decades, I can see that each era

O.C. Scene NEWPORT BEACH GARDEN TOUR AND SUMMER GARDEN PARTY The 25th Annual Newport Beach Garden Tour and Summer Garden Party, presented by the Volunteer Association of Sherman Library & Gardens raised $75,575 for children’s education programs. The Newport Beach Garden Tour, presented virtually this year, included six residential gardens, with a few located outside of the Newport Beach area. A special garden on this year’s tour was part of the Thornton Estate in San Marino, California. A highlight of the Summer Garden Party was the Garden Party Hat Contest. Our judges from Orange Coast Magazine, Recycled Rags, and South Coast Plaza’s Stylist Program had their work cut out for them selecting the winners.

Photos Courtesy of Sherman Library & Gardens

60 ORA NGE C O AST • November 2021

included its share of pain, grace, and joy. At 50, I was newly in love and engaged to be married for the first time. It was a wonderful year. Sure, given the option, I’d cash in a few middleaged aches and let go of worrying about my elderly mom. But overall, each decade has been better than the one before it.

WHILE MANY OF US HAD begun to gingerly see one another, I remained unsure about how I wanted to celebrate my milestone. In childhood, birthdays were a go-big proposition for me, fueled by my mom, who believed the festivities should last a full month. As an adult, I kept the spirit of Mom’s supersized tradition, packing my home with friends for show-and-tell parties where people performed a song, told a story, showed artwork. Last year, my 9-year-old-self stamped her feet over not being able to gather

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people. I quickly snapped out of it and had a sweet, nice-enough Zoom party. But a year more of pandemic fatigue left me with limited energy for event planning. Many of my potential guests, whether my age or much younger, are as exhausted as I am. Rather than a party, I thought we might all enjoy a good nap—in the style of our kindergarten days.

WHILE MANY OF US HAD BEGUN TO GINGERLY SEE ONE ANOTHER, I REMAINED UNSURE ABOUT HOW I WANTED TO CELEBRATE MY MILESTONE. In the end, on the actual day, I went with a minimalist’s grand plan for my 60th. I greeted it with the awareness that I’ve been given the gift of living this long, and the grace of one more day to appreciate the people I love. My birthday was simply another day to make and eat breakfast. I even hosted that virtual slumber party. From the comfort of our own homes, we laid out our blankies for a delicious afternoon nap. The next day, I boarded my first plane in 18 months to see loved ones in Orange County. My cousins welcomed me to their beautiful Corona del Mar home. I barely mentioned my birthday. We got carryout from Thai Del Mar and enjoyed it from a bench at Lookout Point. The next morning, I walked Balboa Island with my cousin, marveling over the flowers and discussing our grandparents. And when visiting other loved ones and catching up, my mind wasn’t on my birthday. With gratitude, I kicked off my new decade without fanfare, and with people who love one another at whatever age we find ourselves.

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CARVED COLOR CERAMICS SEE PAGE 69

64 O R A N G E C O A S T • November 2021

IN ORANGE COUNTY From jewelry and textiles to ceramics, skincare, and more, local artisans are crafting goods with care, creativity, and skill. by ASTGIK KHATCHATRYAN, MICHELLE PAGARAN, AND CHELSEA RAINERI photographs by EMILY J. DAVIS November 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 65

SOTO SURFCRAFT Garden Grove’s Ben Soto shapes custom surfboards ($300 and up) from start to finish at his home. What sparked an interest in surfing? I started surfing when I was a kid. When I hit puberty, because I’m transgender, I was like, “That’s not flying with me.” I gave up a lot of stuff that was water related because (bathing suits are) very revealing. I didn’t feel comfortable with that. I transitioned in 2010. After I transitioned, I moved to San Francisco. When I moved back down in 2012, I was depressed because there was so much to do in San Francisco. My friend was like, “Why don’t you start surfing again?” It just snowballed from there. I started surfing every day and giving it my all.

J EWE LRY SADIE JO JEWELRY CO.

adie Jo Reil started her namesake line in 2019. She creates rings ($36 to $399), necklaces ($78 to $191), and earrings ($46 to $158) using handcarving techniques. She then casts the pieces into sterling silver or 10k gold. Looking to order a custom piece? Reil will work with you to make your idea come to life. Santa Ana, sadiejojewelryco.com

SISTERS OF SUMMER

hese handmade pieces are painted, sewn, or soldered, including rope-threaded earrings in the shape of a rainbow ($12), wood hoop earrings ($9), and 14k gold-plated seashell necklaces ($20). Each piece takes at least three weeks to be made and shipped. Santa Ana, shopsistersofsummer.com

RCHLMADE

amed after founder Desiree Rachel’s grandmother Rachel Garcia, RchlMade offers small-batch goldfilled and solid sterling silver jewelry at accessible prices (most items are less than $25). She works with durable, high-quality materials sourced within the U.S. and uses well-designed paper packaging. Brea, rchlmade.com 66 O R A N G E C O A S T • November 2021

How did you start shaping? Something just told me to start doing it. There are several businesses close to where I live that sell the supplies. They have everything you need, so I just figured out what I needed to do, and I watched videos on YouTube—in all honesty I just listened to God. I just went for it, and I learn stuff with each board. I started Soto Surfcraft last October, about the time that I shaped my first board, and I started an Instagram. Tell us about the boards you make. I make everything by hand. I do the shaping, the glassing, all the sanding. A lot of places now, because they have such high volume, they’ll send their boards out to a place to be glassed. But I like the traditional sense of surfing. Usually, I’ll have a customer tell me what kind of board they’re looking for and whether they want color, a three-fi n setup or one, and then I figure out the price based on the (size).

HANDMADE

November 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 67

HANDMADE

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CARVED COLOR CERAMICS Newport Beach resident Taylor Suchy used ceramics for art therapy after a traumatic brain injury. She sells pieces ($40 to $200) through her website. What led you to ceramics? I was in a scooter accident about two years ago (that resulted in) a mild to moderate traumatic brain injury (TBI). My previous job, that I still do here and there, was graphic design. I worked a lot on computers, and one of the big things for people with traumatic brain injuries is limited screen time—it gives you headaches, and we’re trying to minimize headaches. Hopefully it gets better, but where I’m at right now I work part time and then I spend the rest of my time doing ceramics. Tell us about using ceramics for art therapy. When you get a TBI or a concussion, they usually recommend joining some sort of art therapy program. I took ceramics classes in middle school, high school, and college. It was never really something where I was like “Oh, I’m going to do this,” but I enjoyed it. The few options they gave me were music, painting, and ceramics. I was like “Hey, I know one of those.” I had access to a kiln and wheel, so I (figured) I’ll just do my own program. How has ceramics helped with your brain injury? Something about being hands on and physically (showing) how you’re feeling; there’s something about that that helps you recover. For me, it’s about being able to process it. I think when you’re doing art in general, there are parts of you that come out in your art that maybe you had never told someone about or explained or have a hard time putting words to.

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C E R AM IC S 1 THE DESERT KILN

his shop specializes in porcelain mugs with painterly landscapes and eye-catching prints ($30 to $58). Vanessa Wiebach uses multiple techniques and mediums—all with her added whimsical touch. For instance, a strawberry mug might include seeds painted on with 24k gold luster. Tustin, etsy.com/shop/thedesertkiln

2 ALT VESSEL

hen founder Alexa Volo moved to the U.S. from France, she discovered her love of pottery after taking a four-week workshop at Muddy’s Studio in Santa Ana. During the pandemic, she set up a home studio and started selling her pieces ($50 and up). Her work features dreamy gradients and a mixture of calming neutrals and vibrant pastel hues. Brea, altvessel.com

3 LUNCH TIME CERAMICS

wned by husband-and-wife duo Sammy and Christian Lewis, this home studio is drawn to making teaware and tableware. All pieces are made with stoneware clays and hand-mixed glazes. Their pieces have a minimalist touch with options including creamer mugs, matte mugs, matte teapots, bowls, and vases ($22 to $75). Costa Mesa, lunchtimeceramics.com

4 DOUBLE M POTTERY

wner Mary McDonald off ers everything from mugs and pitchers to pots and tumblers ($42 to $132). She has an aff inity for brown-speckled mugs with dots of color. Her pieces are handmade in a home studio with lead-free glazes and are dishwashersafe. Laguna Beach, doublempottery.com November 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 69

STEP BY STEP Christina Rubiano, owner of Anaheim’s Wild Fleur Collective, breaks down how to create a dried floral wreath.

1. Gather your materials. 2. Tie your dried florals to the hoop, starting from the top left . Wrap the cord around the stems and the hoop, traveling downward. 3. When you get to the bottom, start over on the top right and repeat the process. 4. Tie a ribbon into a bow to complete the look. 70 O R A N G E C O A S T • November 2021

HANDMADE

4 November 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 71

MIMI N. MACRAME Lena Njoku of Cypress started doing macramé as a pandemic hobby. Now she has more than 30,000 followers on Instagram and a waiting list for her custom pieces ($120 and up).

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S KIN CARE 1 BIRDBATH BODY TREATS

his small-batch, handcrafted skincare line uses mostly vegan ingredients (except honey) and off ers a wide range of products. Bestsellers include a coconut cream body mousse, lip butter, sugar scrubs with shea butter, face scrubs and toners, and a perfume oil roll-on ($6 to $26). There is also a line of handmade coconut wax candles ($22 and up). Order online or schedule an in-person shopping appointment. Laguna Hills, birdbathbodytreats.com

2 KAY + KINGSTON NATURALS

fter becoming a mother, Marissa Quarton started making her own skincare products with simple, organic ingredients, essential oils, and no preservatives. Kay + Kingston Naturals, named after her children, off ers products such as face oil, toner, a green tea face mask, body butters, and more ($18 to $26), with 10 percent of profits donated to charity. Orange, instagram.com/kayandkingston

NOSH BODY

tanding for nourishing, organic, simple, and healthy, NOSH off ers products including body scrubs ($32), a line for babies ($15 to $105), and even tanning lotion ($52). The items at NOSH are organic and vegan, made by owner Shalene Bain in small batches. Costa Mesa, noshbody.com 72 O R A N G E C O A S T • November 2021

How did you get into macramé? I had never considered myself a creative. Creativity is all around my family in terms of singing and cooking, but I thought I just didn’t have it. But when everything was shut down, I wanted something to do as a hobby so that I had a focus outside of work, the house, and mom stuff. A friend of mine had beautiful macramé pieces in her home, which I always admired. I thought, “Well they’re just knots; maybe I could try this.” I watched some YouTube tutorials and really got into it. How did you grow your following so quickly? My husband, Ike, said my pieces were really good and that I should post them on Instagram. Mimi is what everyone calls me, so that’s what I named it. At first, friends and family were following, then friends of friends. And I would just give them away to whoever wanted one if they paid for shipping. Then I got my first request from someone I didn’t know. Then I boomed from 5,000 followers to 20,000 in a matter of weeks. I love making videos of my process and taking pictures. That part just comes naturally to me, and it really contributed to my fast growth. And people really love the bright colors I use. Would you ever do this full time? I’m a mom and I have a fulltime job as a counselor at Cal State Long Beach, which I love. I have a responsibility toward my students to help them succeed. And that fills my cup, too. So while I love macramé, I just want to keep it as a passion and something I do from the heart.

HANDMADE

November 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 73

HANDMADE

LOCAL CRAFT FAIRS Gente Market, Santa Ana 1 Modern Makers Mart, various cities 2 Off the Road, Westminster 3 Patchwork Show, Tustin 4 Poppi Seed Market, Tustin Sunshine Handmade Market, various cities 5

SCHOOL YOURSELF Get in on the crafty fun with these DIY classes. M. Lovewell

Paper flowers, hand-lettering

Santa Ana, mlovewell.com

The Succulent Scene

Succulent arrangements

throughout O.C., thesucculentscene.com 6

Open Market OC

Candle-making, chunky blankets

Laguna Hills, openmarketoc.com

AR Workshop

Wood signs, home decor, chunky knit blankets

Huntington Beach and San Juan Capistrano, arworkshop.com

Urban Workshop

Everything from surfboard shaping to welding and woodworking

Costa Mesa, urbanworkshop.net

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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF 1. GENTE MARKET 2. MODERN MAKERS MART 3. OFF THE ROAD 4. NICOLE STEVENSON/DEAR HANDMADE LIFE 5. RSVP EVENT SPACE STAFF 6. THE SUCCULENT SCENE

The 714 Market, various cities

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CAND LE S PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF 1. GENTE MARKET 2. MODERN MAKERS MART 3. OFF THE ROAD 4. NICOLE STEVENSON/DEAR HANDMADE LIFE 5. RSVP EVENT SPACE STAFF 6. THE SUCCULENT SCENE

1 NESW WAX CO.

he brand’s hand-poured candles ($18) are named after various cities in California, including O.C. places such as Brea, Dana Point, Costa Mesa, Huntington Beach, and more. Whether you’re visiting a city, are a resident, or have moved away and are missing home, each candle serves as a reminder of time spent there. Orange, neswwaxco.com

2 SWEET ARLENE’S CANDLE CO.

wner Drew Arlene launched her business in 2020. Each candle ($22 to $28) is individually hand-poured, features a wooden wick, and is made with either all-natural soy or coconut wax, which are nontoxic and eco-friendly. Arlene also imbeds her candles with dried herbs, flowers, and crystals. Yorba Linda, sweetarlenescandleco.com

3 WHISPERING WICKS

he couple behind this company discovered their talent after giving out handmade candles as wedding favors. Both ICU nurses, Maddie and Rudy Cordero found this passion to be a source of comfort during the pandemic. All candles ($21 and up) are made from nontoxic soy and coconut wax, have wooden wicks, and are packaged in recyclable and compostable materials. Five percent of quarterly sales go to nonprofits. Anaheim, whisperingwicksco.com November 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 75

HANDMADE

76 O R A N G E C O A S T • November 2021

CAPRI SHOES AND NAVARRO LEATHER STUDIO The Navarro family, helmed by shoemaker Oscar Navarro, owns and operates Capri Shoes in Fullerton. Daughters Veronica and Stephanie started a complementary leather goods business last year. Tell us about Capri Shoes. Oscar: I came here from Mexico when I was 20. My dad was a shoe repairman. He had a little shop in Brea. I worked for him for a while, then I started working for the original owner of Capri Shoes. He retired in 1992, and I took over. We make shoes for performers mostly— Disney has us make their shoes for characters, and we work for a lot of playhouses and cruise lines. How did Navarro Leather Studio start? Oscar: We started it during the pandemic, since the entertainment industry was shut down. Veronica: It was something we always wanted to do but never had time. It was a chance to do our own designs and be creative. Stephanie: Originally, it was just sandals and purses ($150 to $250). Veronica had the idea to make leather earrings ($15 to $30), headbands ($50), and other accessories. It was really a sister project. Did you always know you’d go into the family business? Veronica: We worked here right out of high school, but it took time to realize we were going to be serious about it and stick with it full time. Stephanie: I studied shoe design in Mexico for three months, so my responsibilities here grew. Oscar: It’s really a family business. My wife does office work, and my son does shoe repair. My daughters are so creative. I love what I do, and I’m so glad I was able to transmit this passion to them.

AND M ORE ... VANIA NOVA CUSTOM COUTURE

ancho Santa Margarita resident Vania Assenova designs and sews custom dresses, specializing in wedding gowns ($2,000 and up) and motherof-the-bride dresses ($500 and up). Orders take four weeks usually, but can be done in a matter of days in case of a fashion emergency. Newport Beach and Rancho Santa Margarita, facebook.com/vania.fashion.designer

CHRISTOPHER LORD DESIGNS

ou’re likely to have seen Christopher Lord’s handpainted signs and murals at places such as Lido Marina Village. Specializing in hand-lettering and custom-made signs, Lord does everything from designing graphics to metal fabrication. Throughout the county, christopherlorddesigns.com

LIVINTINS SUCCULENTS

aprak Bakirci began making succulent arrangements as a form of art therapy. Now she sells her designs ($10 to $200) at Utopia Euro Caff e in Tustin, various pop-ups, and by delivery. She also

off ers workshops, custom creations, and wedding arrangements. Anaheim Hills, instagram.com/livintins

RESPARKED DESIGNS

et sustainable goods ($5 to $17) at this Open Market OC stall. Founded by Katrina Henry, the line of eco-friendly home and travel wares is meant to replace disposable items with reusable cloth wipes, facial rounds, kitchen towels, and more. There are also cute and functional bento bags, upcycled pouches, and tote bags. Laguna Hills and Huntington Beach, resparkeddesigns.com

TONO + CO

ounded by Janelle Nicole Thomson (owner of O.C.based Lavenders Flowers), this hand-dyed silk textile company was borne out of Thomson’s love for colors. The name, which originates from the Italian phrase tono colore (color tone), is a nod to Thomson’s time spent studying painting in Italy. Shop hand-dyed silk ribbons, scarves, and pillowcases ($6 to $108) in a spectrum of hues. Santa Ana, tonoandco.com November 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 77

COMING HOME S N A P S H O T

Julie Perlin Lee, the new executive director of the Laguna Art Museum, arrives with deep ties to Orange County and big plans for the museum’s future. by Alan Gibbons Perlin Lee is an O.C. native, growing up in Costa Mesa and Irvine, but it was a trip out of Orange County that ignited her passion for art. “My grandma and I went traveling back east when I was 13. That was my gift for graduating from junior high—a Samsonite suitcase and a trip to the East Coast. It was important for me at that point to know that the world is a bigger place. I strongly believe in getting people to experience a different environment. We went to the Smithsonians, and I just had a moment of ‘Wow, this is where I want to be. I’m going to go into the arts.’ ” After finishing her bachelor’s degree in art history and an MFA in exhibition design, both at Cal State Fullerton, Perlin Lee worked at Bowers Museum, eventually becoming the vice president of collections and exhibition development there. Her first executive director job followed, at Catalina Island Museum, where she stayed for five years before taking over at Laguna Art Museum earlier this year. “I loved being at the Bowers, but I had two very young kids and I was traveling a lot; it was too much on our family. The Catalina experience came calling, and it was terrific. I thought, ‘I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to get back to Orange County. How will that ever happen?’ When the Laguna (job opened), I thought, ‘What an amazing opportunity with an amazing organization that I’ve had some touchstones with in my life.’ My very first exhibition design model (at Cal State Fullerton) is of Laguna Art Museum. I had to build the museum and redesign the galleries.” photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

At the end of the day, we’re here to serve people.

Island life was good training, and her first job as director offered growth opportunities. “You’d have (Catalina) residents saying, ‘We’re a community of 4,000 people; why do we need a huge new building?’ There was finishing the building, which I had zero experience in. And then there was community relations. … It was challenging but rewarding. At one point, we were collaborating with our local fishermen on an exhibit. I certainly miss island life. But this is paradise also!” In reflecting on a museum’s role post-pandemic, Perlin Lee is eager to reconnect with the community. “One of the great things about this museum is the focus on art and nature. (Former director) Malcolm Warner developed a way to connect the community to the museum, mostly by bringing the museum out of doors. ... This idea of bringing art and nature together in an even bolder way is really exciting for me. We’re working with an artist from UCLA, Rebeca Méndez. She uses design to address issues of environment. … It will be interesting to see if we can put together a program that strongly champions artists who are problemsolving in the area of environment. We’ll see how the public responds, but if you can’t use art to open eyes, I don’t know what tools we do have to start dialogues.” In strategizing for the future, Perlin Lee hopes to expand the museum’s reach. “I’m really excited to put some more foundation into the organization. Strengthen our staff and community ties. We have a really loyal group of members and donors, but they’re almost all focused in Laguna Beach. I’m excited to spread the word about what this museum holds in its collections, to really bring those collections alive in new ways, to grow our collections, and signal to the world that we’re looking for exceptional pieces for this museum.” November 2021 • OR A NGE COAST 79

THE RANCH SEE PAGE 82

80 O R A N G E C O A S T • November 2021

GARDENS FOR CHEFS AND BY CHEFS THESE O.C. FOLKS TAKE PRIDE IN GROWING WHAT THEY SERVE AND BEING IN TUNE WITH THE SEASONS IN THEIR DISHES AND COCKTAILS. by GRETCHEN KURZ photographs by EMILY J. DAVIS

November 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 81

NOAH ALMAZAN

ROBIN JONES

The Ranch, Anaheim

@honeygirlgrows, Laguna Beach

he Ranch’s 2-acre farm in the Santa Ana Mountains is every chef’s dream. Horticulturist Leo Valencia supports the five-chef team with year-round plantings from artichokes (green globe) to watermelon (crimson sweet). “We are fortunate to have a private farm that produces more than just exceptional seasonal bounties; it is our playground of inspiration,” Almazan says. Last summer, 26 varieties of tomatoes fueled the fabled heirloom tomato salad. Six kinds of pumpkins appear in seasonal sides, soups, and Cinderella pumpkin risotto. A dozen herbs season sweet and savory dishes, plus infusions for seasonal cocktails.

82 O R A N G E C O A S T • November 2021

CULINARY GARDEN DESIGNER

hose edible flowers in your drink or on your dessert could well be from Jones’ garden or one she designed for the restaurant. “Right now, chefs want typical fall flavors and colors,” Jones says. “So I like to steer them to unusual items like colorful Chinese spinach, variegated hibiscus leaves, or shiso leaves in pinks, peach, and burnt orange.” Jones also advocates for herbs because they’re “as essential as salt and pepper for seasoning, generate their own dainty flowers, benefit soil health, repel pests, and protect plants from disease.” She longs for a day when “no one ever again needs to buy $4 herbs in small plastic containers.”

P H OTO G R A P H S C O U R T E S Y O F R O B I N J O N E S

EXECUTIVE CHEF

November 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 83

P H OTO G R A P H S C O U R T E S Y O F R O B I N J O N E S

LINDSAY SMITH CHEF-OWNER

Nirvana Grille, Laguna Beach

e change menus three times a year, so I rotate easy, high-yield plantings to coincide. We have 12 planters at the restaurant, and I maintain a 250-foot terrace garden at home. Herbs are my favorite. We use them in so many dishes: tarragon in the beef stroganoff, parsley butter for zucchini, cilantro in chicken wontons. Sourcing from the gardens lowers costs as well, since the equivalent from a farmers market would drive menu prices even higher.”

“

84 O R A N G E C O A S T • November 2021

JARED COOK

CHEF-PARTNER

Vine Restaurant & Bar, San Clemente (And sister restaurants Ironwood, Olea, and Sapphire Laguna)

ook oversees a westfacing back pocket garden carved from the lot’s north and west edges. “Heirloom tomatoes are handsdown the main crop in summer, but in fall we grow cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, collard greens, and lots of lacinto kale because it has a great yield and it’s one of my favorite things to eat,” Cook says. “I always have several types of thyme, plus sweet basil, Thai basil, African blue basil, mints, and dill.” Beverage director Gabe Whorely uses herbs heavily in cocktails and lives nearby, so he stops by in the morning to harvest them for delivery to Ironwood, Olea, and Sapphire Laguna.

November 2021 • O R A N G E C O A S T 85

S P O N S O R E D CONT E NT

2021

ATTORNEYS

OF DISTINCTION

MARK P. ROBINSON, JR. / Products Liability, Personal Injury & Class Action Attorney November 2021 • Or a nge Coast 87

SPON SORED C ON TEN T

ATTORNEYS OF DISTINCTION

THE LAW FIRM OF

ROBINSON CALCAGNIE, INC DEDICATED TO SEEKING JUSTICE

VEHICLE ACCIDENTS

• Fixed Wing & Helicopters

CLASS ACTIONS

• Heavy Equipment Accidents

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• Negligent Maintenance

• Data Breach

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• Premises Liability

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CATASTROPHIC INJURIES

• Personal Injuries

• Structural Failures & Falls

• Bus Accidents

• Amputation

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• Workplace Accidents

• Defective Airbags

• Birth Defects

• Unfair or Fraudulent

• Defective Roadways

• Burns

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Business Practices • Wage & Hour Violations

• Talcum Powder • Allergan Biocell® Implants

CONSTRUCTIONSITE ACCIDENTS

• Cal-OSHA Violations • Fires & Explosions

88 Ora nge C o ast • November 2021

DANGEROUS PRODUCTS

• Paraquat® Herbicide • Juul® E-Cigarettes • Roundup® Herbicide

S P O N S O R E D CONT E NT

ATTORNEYS OF DISTINCTION

robinsonf irm.com 19 Corporate Plaza Drive / Newport Beach, CA 92660 / (949) 720-1288 • f. (949) 720-1292

he law firm of Robinson Calcagnie, Inc., has built a national reputation for providing the highest quality of legal representation and obtaining substantial jury verdicts, judgments, and settlements.

Since 1978, when senior partner Mark P. Robinson, Jr., served as co-counsel for the plaintiff in the historic Ford Pinto gas tank fire case, Grimshaw v. Ford Motor Company, the firm has

represented thousands of clients in individual suits, class actions, and mass torts over the past four decades. Recent successes include a $417M verdict on behalf of a talc user, a $46M verdict on behalf of a man hit by a car, a $17M settlement for a class of homeowners, and a $22M settlement for a data breach victim. Robinson Calcagnie, Inc., represents plaintiffs in cases involving catastrophic injury, wrongful death, and consumer rights.

November 2021 • Or a nge Coast 89

SPON SORED C ON TEN T

ATTORNEYS OF DISTINCTION

THE LAW OFFICES OF

CALLAHAN & BLAINE

stablished in 1984, Callahan & Blaine consists of 28 experienced trial attorneys. The firm is led by firm founder Daniel J. Callahan, who is regarded as one of the country’s top trial lawyers. The National Law Journal named him one of the “Top 10 Attorneys” in the United States, and California Lawyer magazine designated him “California Lawyer of The Year.” Most recently, Callahan was named one of the “Top 10 Attorneys in Southern California” by Super Lawyers magazine.

90 Ora nge C o ast • November 2021

CALIFORNIA’S PREMIER

RECORD BREAKING VERDICTS AND

LITIGATION FIRM

SETTLEMENTS

Callahan & Blaine has achieved recordbreaking verdicts and settlements across a diverse range of litigation issues. “We don’t have a narrow focus in any one area of the law,” notes Callahan. “Instead, our attorneys have expertise in a broad spectrum of complex litigation matters, including business litigation, insurance law, labor/employment defense and catastrophic personal injury. We are also equally adept at both plaintiff and defense perspectives.”

Callahan & Blaine has a broad range of historic results. Most notable is Dan Callahan’s $934 Million jury verdict in a complex business litigation case, which is the largest jury verdict in the history of Orange County. In addition, Callahan & Blaine obtained a $50 Million settlement which is certified by West Trial Digest as the largest personal injury settlement in United States history. Callahan & Blaine also has the largest insurance bad faith judgment in Orange County history ($58 Million), and the largest employment settlement ($38 Million). Most recently, the firm settled a bicycle accident case for $17 Million.

S P O N S O R E D CONT E NT

ATTORNEYS OF DISTINCTION

callahan-law.com 3 Hutton Centre Drive, Suite 900 / Santa Ana, CA 92707 / 714-241-4444 • f. 714-241-4445

A SPECIALTY OF WINNING

HONORS AND AWARDS

Each of Callahan & Blaine’s 28 senior attorneys is an experienced and accomplished litigator. Callahan & Blaine’s attorneys have expertise in a wide diversity of practice areas, including insurance law, intellectual property, trade secrets, employment law, catastrophic personal injury, real estate, business torts and corporate governance. For example, Edward Susolik, the partner in charge of the firm’s insurance department, has handled over 1000 insurance disputes on behalf of businesses and individuals over the last 31 years. As explained by Susolik, “The firm specializes in the one thing that matters most to clients: winning.”

Callahan & Blaine’s attorneys have achieved many awards and honors over the years. For example, both Dan Callahan and Ed Susolik have been named to the “Top 100 Attorneys in Southern California” list by Super Lawyers magazine from 2009 to 2021. Similarly, partners Michael Sachs and Brian McCormack have all achieved numerous judicial victories in recent years, and represent the next generation of Callahan & Blaine trial lawyers. For example, Brian McCormack was recently named Trial Lawyer of the Year by the Orange County Trial Lawyers Association.

BUSINESS LITIGATION INSURANCE LAW LABOR/EMPLOYMENT DEFENSE PERSONAL INJURY

November 2021 • Or a nge Coast 91

SPON SORED C ON TEN T

ATTORNEYS OF DISTINCTION

FAMILY LAW ATTORNEYS

NELSON | KIRKMAN

t’s been said the side with the best story wins. The family law counsel at Nelson Kirkman live this truth daily by presenting the strongest narrative for their discerning clients. Focused on gathering facts, they leverage key details to build legal cases with emotional power. As their many favorable legal outcomes will attest, this approach continues to pay off handsomely. Newport Beach-based, the law practice serves Orange County. Nelson Kirkman takes great pride in navigating the complex terrain of business and property division.

Proficient in high-asset marital dissolutions, they safeguard clients by excelling at winning hearts and minds in court. Firm founder Paul J. Nelson, a Certified Family Law Specialist, has tried hundreds of family law matters, giving him uncommon familiarity with local judicial officers and opposing counsel. These are strategic advantages evidenced by his winning track record. Nelson was chosen as a Super Lawyer® for 2021 and 2022. He also holds an AV Preeminent® rating with MartindaleHubbel®, the highest possible score for both legal ability and ethical standards.

Another Certified Family Law Specialist, Graham Kirkman began his legal career assisting injured military veterans in obtaining financial assistance for injuries sustained while deployed. An accomplished musician, he received a college scholarship based on his abilities. He is licensed before all California state courts and is a member of the Orange County Bar Association. Committed to getting the best results, the attorneys at Nelson Kirkman are seasoned litigators adept at best presenting their clients’ side—even in the most challenging of family matters.

nelsonkirkman.com 4100 Newport Place, Suite 250 / Newport Beach, CA 92660 / (949) 760-8888

92 Ora nge C o ast • November 2021

OVER $2 MILLION RECOVERED

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Diminished Value and Loss of Use ARE Recoverable BEFORE ACCIDENT $293,900

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The decreased value of a car following an accident and all proper repairs.

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The cost to rent a similar vehicle while car is being repaired.

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MBER

2 0 21

DINING GUIDE

DINING GUIDE ORANGE COUNT Y’S DEFINITIVE SOURCE F O R R E S TAU R A N T N E W S & M I N I R E V I E W S P R I C I N G $$$ $50 and up $$ Less than $50 $ Mostly less than $25 Denotes Critic’s Choice restaurant

ANAHEIM BLUSKY RESTAURANT & BAR Gawk at the view from the 12-story rooftop digs, but know that Blusky’s Basque cuisine is what really makes this hotel restaurant Anaheim’s most interesting newcomer. Executive chef Edgar Beas is fresh off stints at Michelin-star kitchens, applying mastery to a tight menu of Spanish dishes. Look for Iberico pork items, indulgent salt cod, and lobster paella. Late night, the place thumps with club action. Radisson Blu, 1601 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-409-1458. Dinner only $$ CATAL RESTAURANT AND UVA BAR Dead center in Downtown Disney, Catal is the Patina Group’s nod to Spain’s Mediterranean cuisine. Expect an urbane spin on rustic fare such as lobster paella, making this one of the zone’s better spots for fine dining. Just outside, Uva Bar is an alfresco saloon with light eats and great peoplewatching. 1580 Disneyland Drive, 714-774-4442. $$$ MORTON’S, THE STEAKHOUSE Steaks—including the 24-ounce porterhouse and center-cut filet mignon—are wet-aged 23 to 25 days. Fill your plate with giant sides of broccoli and hash browns, but leave a little room: There’s chocolate cake for dessert. Killer bar-bite deals nightly from 4:30 to closing. 1895 S. Harbor Blvd., 714-621-0101. See South Coast Metro location. $$$ NAPA ROSE Wine country thrives at the Disneyland Resort by way of this classy dinner house— no park admission required. Star chef Andrew Sutton leads his crew in an exhibition kitchen, turning out imaginative, highly seasonal New American fare. The room mixes rustic with refined, and the notably wine-savvy waitstaff, many qualified as sommeliers, deftly tailors unforgettable meals around wines from one of the region’s finest cellars. Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa, 1313 Disneyland Drive, 714-300-7170. $$$

POPPY & SEED Chef-owner Michael Reed applies his versatile chops to a spirited, seasonal dinner menu of share plates and thoughtful proteins. Clever variations on of-the-moment produce are high points, as are premium steaks and duck dishes. The one-of-a-kind greenhouse garden setting is a calming contrast to neighbor Anaheim Packing House. Weekend brunch. Closed Monday and Tuesday. 350 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-603-7130 $$$ PUESTO Part of a swanky new Westin resort, UPDATE the newest site of this high-flying taqueria is perhaps the most dramatic. Kinetic lighting, mobile bar shelves, and a tequila temple wall engage diners as they down showy drinks and novel taco-centric fare. Handmade blue corn tortillas and cheesy Oaxacan fricos lend tacos a signature difference. Ask about the monthly taco special. 1040 W. Katella Ave., 714-294-0362. $$ See Huntington Beach and Irvine locations. THE RANCH RESTAURANT & SALOON Oozing top-notch ambition, The Ranch packs some big guns—executive chef Michael Rossi and his brother David, pastry chef. The large venue also includes an upscale saloon and dance hall, sited in the six-story headquarters of Extron Electronics. The whopping (mostly) seasonal American fare is a mashup of down-home and uptown. 1025 E. Ball Road, 714-817-4200. $$$ ROY’S Chef-partner Laura Reyes adds dishes to Roy Yamaguchi’s signature collection of Hawaiian-Asian favorites. From sushi to dessert, the accent is on fresh flavors. This location is Convention Centerand Disneyland-close. 321 W. Katella Ave., 714-7767697. $$$ TRUE SEASONS ORGANIC KITCHEN This sleek storefront by Saifon Plewtong now adds wraps, bowls, smoothies, and desserts to a menu that once focused solely on hot pots. Still, the spotlight is on organic, GMO-free local produce and all-

natural proteins. Do try the fresh-pressed sugar cane juice for a refresher like no other in these parts. 5675 E. La Palma Ave., 714-462-9223. Beer and wine. $$ URBANA This colorful tenant of the Anaheim Packing House brings vibrancy and a cool cantina attitude to a food hall that really needed a good taco and mezcal cocktail. Executive chef Ernie Alvarado’s short menu of savvy street food changes often, and you can’t go wrong with his daily specials. Cozy surroundings offer a choice of ambience—festive or sultry. 440 S. Anaheim Blvd., 714-502-0255. $$

ANAHEIM HILLS EL CHOLO A spiffy suburban outpost of the combo-plate chain that started in L.A. in 1923. Many dishes are listed with their year of origin. One of the best dates from the birth of the restaurant: the Sonora-style enchilada topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 8200 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-769-6269. See Corona del Mar and La Habra locations. $$ REUNION KITCHEN + DRINK Popular with the locals, this dapper haunt oozes bonhomie thanks to a solid team led by industry vet Scott McIntosh, whose feel-good American classics are consistently executed by a tight kitchen. Service is sharp. Look for a homey meatloaf, laudable fried chicken with yummy mashers and fresh biscuits, and house-made desserts. Modern cocktails and a roomy patio increase the pleasure factor. 5775 E. Santa Ana Canyon Road, 714-283-1062. Second location (not yet reviewed) in Laguna Beach. $$ ROSINE’S MEDITERRANEAN RESTAURANT This neighborhood darling includes a 20-seat bar, complete with a full liquor license and a clutch of specialty cocktails. Fragrant rotisserie chickens are always popular, though the menu now offers winebraised lamb shanks, and Pacific ono skewers. A sizable roster of gluten-free choices anchors a spin-off menu. 721 S. Weir Canyon Road, 714-283-5141. $$

BRE A BRUNOS ITALIAN KITCHEN One of North County’s best venues boasts advantages that are fairly rare in these parts: thoughtfully executed Italian cuisine, a cozy setting, and appealing prices. This sibling of neighbor Cha Cha’s does winning arancini, steamed mussels, house-made pappardelle, and a fine branzino. A notable happy hour features steep discounts on terrific appetizers and signature Italian cocktails. 210 W. Birch St., 714-257-1000. $$ CHA CHA’S L ATIN KITCHEN This cool hang with a wraparound sidewalk patio is Birch Street Promenade’s most enduring dining success. Helmed by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni, the menu of modern Mexican fare is boosted by a wood-burning oven and new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas,

OUR CRITERIA Restaurants are reviewed by our dining critics and staff and have no relationship to advertising in Orange Coast. Listings are updated regularly. We do not accept free meals; visits are anonymous. Price classifications are based on a typical three‑course dinner (appetizer, entree, dessert) for one person. Alan Gibbons edits this listing. You can reach her at agibbons@orangecoast.com. 94 Ora nge C o ast • November 2021

As always, service is polished and accommodating. Leave room for the righteous sundae made with C.C. Brown’s hot fudge, an old Hollywood marvel. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-760-0331. Dinner only. $$$ SIDEDOOR Nested within the landmark Lawry’s Five Crowns, this gastropub welcomes come-asyou-are diners with a changing daily menu of imaginative small plates, seasonal soups, prime rib sandwiches, potpies, and desserts. Don’t miss the charcuterie station with choice cured meats and artisanal cheeses. Always interesting wines by the glass, craft beers, and signature cocktails boost the inviting room’s jolly British vibe. 3801 E. Coast Highway, 949-717-4322. $$

COSTA MESA [

Grilled octopus at Poppy & Seed

aguachile, and pozole. Taco Tuesday is just one of many weekly specials. Impressive tequila menu. 110 W. Birch St., 714-255-1040. See Irvine location. $$ JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN Big and welcoming, this 230-seat sprawling venue is a utility player thanks to a broad menu of modern comfort fare. It’s a handy call for patio lunches, upbeat happy hours, hearty dinners, and bossy brunches. Locals swarm the upbeat space, noshing on mighty burgers, fried chicken, and prime rib. Desserts are fantastically huge, if ordinary. 3325 E. Imperial Highway, 714-733-1310. See Dana Point location. $$$ OLD BREA CHOP HOUSE North County’s fine diners can skip the trek south to splurge on old-school steakhouse dinners. Longtime Morton’s veteran Tony Fasulo breaks away, polishing the classy formula to a high sheen. Expect deluxe beef, say a Tomahawk chop or a strapping Delmonico, boosted with first-class seafood, precise cocktails, and cosseting service. Marinated skirt steak is the sleeper call. Cozy yet utterly contemporary, the venue includes a 25-seat bar with charcuterie platters. 180 S. Brea Blvd., 714592-3122. Dinner only. $$$ TAPS FISH HOUSE & BREWERY Taps continues to be O.C.’s landmark pick for dining on a wide range of appealing seafood, pasta, steaks, and spunky New Orleans specialties that go down well with award-winning ales and lagers that change often. Happy hour is a big draw for value-seekers. Sunday brunch is a popular feast. 101 E. Imperial Highway, 714-257-0101. $$

CORONA DEL MAR THE BUNGALOW Comfy booths, a lively bar with stiff martinis, and lots of premium wines by the glass lure diners to this dinner house darling with the feel of a Craftsman home. Prime beef is king, but you also can get a huge Aussie lobster tail. Desserts are classic

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

berries and cream, and chocolate souffle cake, so you can concentrate on your surf ’n’ turf. Lunch is hearty sandwiches and huge high-quality salads. Just save us a seat on the charming patio. 2441 E. Coast Highway, 949-673-6585. $$$ CDM RESTAURANT The successful team behind much-loved A Restaurant pounced on the defunct Crow Bar, retooling it with scraped light-wood floors, peacock-blue velvet booths, leather chairs, and a freestanding, alwaysbusy bar. The kitchen takes on seasonal, contemporary American fare. Think a trio of unexpectedly sublime pizzas. Ethereal Parker House rolls. A killer Niman Ranch pork chop. 2325 E. Coast Highway, 949287-6600. $$$ EL CHOLO It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with a fried egg. Green corn tamales have achieved cult status. 3520 E. Coast Highway, 949-777-6137. See Anaheim Hills and La Habra locations. $ FARMHOUSE AT ROGER’S GARDENS This beguiling patio is chef-owner Rich Mead’s fourth and busiest enterprise yet, an inspired collaboration between a farmer’s dream chef and O.C.’s iconic outdoor lifestyle retailer. The restaurant-gazebo seats 120 with rustic style, making this the fresh favorite for dates and celebrations. Mead’s seasonal menu shifts often to reflect his passion for local family farms and ranches. Craft cocktails have a farmers market tilt, and a nascent cheese program rounds out the ever-changing feast. 2301 San Joaquin Hills Road, 949-640-1415. $$$ FIVE CROWNS O.C.’s beloved, vine-covered, fine-dining landmark of 1965 stays current thanks to a refreshed menu by executive chef Alejandra Padilla (formerly with Hillstone and Patina groups). Foodies thrill to foie gras brûlée and roast goose with wild grains, but sumptuous feasts of prime rib retain a hallowed spot on the carte at this Lawry’s-owned institution.

SEE ALSO SOUTH COAST METRO

]

2145 Santa Ana native and Pizzeria Ortica veteran Eduardo Salcedo brings an artisan mindset and Japanese aesthetic to this Neapolitan-style pizza joint in a cleverly repurposed auto shop. Aromas of almondwood fire whet the appetite for his finely crafted pies and imaginative toasts on house-baked shokupan, Japan’s beloved breakfast loaf. Sit at the white marble bar or under umbrellas on the patio to enjoy bresaola and burrata salad with pickled fennel, or hyper-tender octopus with diced potato, charred scallions, and squid ink mayo. 2145 Placentia Ave., 949-873-5853. Beer and wine. $$ BOATHOUSE COLLECTIVE This quirky hang is a restaurant and private-event venue from local artist Clayton Peterson. A pastiche of upcycled shipping containers and post-andbeam construction, the space is also indoor-outdoor, with frequent live music by local and touring acts. Mathieu Royer is executive chef, cooking a tight and ever-changing menu of eclectic fare that’s in sync with this oddball shop. Don’t miss the savory burger. Terrific craft cocktails ensure a mixed crowd. 1640 Pomona Ave., 949-646-3176. $$ DESCANSO Descanso’s novel twist is the elevation of the taquero to center stage. Inspired by the dynamic street foods of Mexico City, owner Rob Arellano seats diners right at the plancha grill to watch their tacos sizzled with pizazz. Happy hour is particularly tempting if you can scoot in midweek, from 3 to 6 p.m. 1555 Adams Ave., 714-486-3798. $$ HABANA Flickering candles light the way through a highceilinged dining room, convivial bar, and lush patio at The Lab’s enduring Cuban hang for date nights and late nights. Most of the fare sticks solidly to classics, such as roast chicken and ropa vieja, but the appetizer side is loaded with winners. Updates include a lavish, all-you-can-eat brunch with live island music and an array of delicious baked goodies. Intimate confines make reservations a smart move. 2930 Bristol St., 714-556-0176. See Irvine location. $$$ IZAKAYA HACHI A handsome, modern izakaya from the owners of Manpuku, Hachi is a boisterous, convivial gem. The charcoal-grilled skewers shine, including the chicken meatball and chicken thigh. Expect a little bit of everything here: gloriously marbled beef, fresh oysters, composed salads, fried chicken, and unique pressed sushi. 3033 Bristol St., 657-231-6566. Dinner only. $ November 2021 • Or a nge Coast 95

DINING GUIDE

A+O Restaurant | Bar

WHISKEY ON WHEELS | PELICAN GRILL, A+O

MESA At this high-style hipster hang with a retractable roof, expect shareable dishes that play by the seasons and don’t shy away from intense flavors. Highlights include mussels sizzled in cast iron and fried cicchetti olives. An interesting, value-packed wine list beckons, as do inspired artisan cocktails. 725 Baker St., 714-557-6700. $$$ OLD VINE KITCHEN & BAR Popular for its brunch-type fare in a town rife with competing options, this charming nook has upgraded with a larger space. Foodies rave about urbane dishes, many with an Italian accent. Think barbecue pork omelet by day, seasonal tasting

96 Ora nge C o ast • November 2021

There’s a specialty batched Manhattan, too, featuring Johnny Walker Green, Carpano Antica vermouth, and a touch each of amaretto, vanilla, and black-walnut bitters; it’s gorgeously garnished with a marcona almond tuille. Cocktails from the cart start at $35. 22800 S. Pelican Hill Road, Newport Coast, 844-443-0022, pelicanhill. com A+O Restaurant | Bar at Balboa Bay Resort rolls out a smoked-whiskey-cocktail cart along with its refreshed design and reconfigured menu. The cart offers four whiskey cocktails—and, curiously, one reposado-tequila cocktail—all smoked menu by night. Chef-owner Mark McDonald likes to pair his dinners with interesting wine flights from the world over, and he regularly leads culinary excursions to southern Italy. 2937 Bristol St., 714-545-1411. $$ SOCIAL Social brought hipster dining to a scruffy westside strip mall, opening the area to considerable gentrification. The 118-seat retooled venue surprises with sophisticated cooking and a nicely refreshed menu, especially now that executive chef Jeffrey Boullt is back and managing two scratch kitchens. Yes, a second Social is just open in Huntington Beach. New signature items include lamb empanadas, Wagyu

tableside in a glass cube and starting at $30. The Baller, a smoked snifter of Macallan Reflexion single malt Scotch whisky, is a high-end option at $300. Wood-chip choices include mesquite, applewood, hickory, and cherrywood. Top of the list: the Toasted Walnut OldFashioned with Woodford Reserve bourbon, Amaro Lucano, and walnut bitters. The WhistlePig Old-Fashioned is smoked with pecan wood; the Smokey Big Apple, made with Hudson Manhattan Rye, comes with a smoking cinnamon stick. 1221 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach, 949-645-5000, balboabayresort.com —BENJAMIN EPSTEIN beef tri-tip, and all-new craft cocktails. Service is variable. 512 W. 19th St., 949-642-2425. Weekend brunch. Second location (not reviewed) in Huntington Beach at 21214 Beach Blvd. $$ TACO MARÍA Every dish is a marvel of deeply considered modern Cal-Mex cuisine from chef-owner and O.C. native Carlos Salgado, who parked his esteemed food truck enterprise for this site. Even the stripped-down setting draws all attention to the food. Dinners are four-course prix fixe affairs, with thoughtful wine pairings. Lunch—when the tacos appear—is a more laid-back and affordable way to sample the refined slant that snagged Sal-

PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBERT ARROYO

ableside carts bring newfashioned engagement to the Old-Fashioned experience. It’s Pelican Grill’s time to shine when it comes to an Old-Fashioned. The restaurant’s new Bourbon & Whiskey Cart offers the cocktail meticulously crafted using your choice of five whiskeys—among them WhistlePig 10-year rye and highly coveted Weller bourbon—and three scratch-made bitters: wild-cherry bark with dried cherries and sage; sarsaparilla bark with toasted marcona almonds and Tahitian vanilla bean; and burdock root with lemon verbena and macerated citrus rinds.

gado a Michelin star and several James Beard nominations for chef awards. 3313 Hyland Ave., 714-538-8444. Beer and wine. $$$

DANA POINT ENOSTEAK The coast’s most intimate salon for ultrapremium steaks is discreetly tucked just off the lobby at this esteemed resort. Beef—be it grass-fed, grain-fed, bone-in, or dry-aged—is the star of a pithy-if-pricey menu that’s unabashedly loyal. Lavish compound butters to enjoy alongside steaks are a house signature. Polished service and often enchanting desserts. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949240-2000. $$$ GLASSPAR Glasspar is a classic seafooder, oyster bar, and tap room. Veteran top toque and local Rob Wilson helms his dream retool of the old Mahé site, paused for dining but open for supporting the community with ultra-fresh goods and his five-star tips for serving seafood at home. A tight focus on topshelf cocktails is sure to be much appreciated once groups gather within toasting distance. 24961 Dana Point Harbor Drive, 949-240-6243. $$$ JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN Big and welcoming, this 225-seat harbor side venue is a utility player thanks to a broad menu of modern comfort fare. It’s a handy call for patio lunches, upbeat happy hours, hearty dinners, and bossy brunches. Locals swarm the upbeat space, noshing on mighty burgers, fried chicken, and prime rib. Desserts are fantastically huge, if ordinary. 25001 Dana Point Harbor Drive, 949-388-8900. See Brea location. $$ RAYA Steve Wan is executive sous chef at this posh-butrelaxed dining room conceived by celeb chef Richard Sandoval. After the eye-popping bluff-top ocean view, Pan-Latin seafood dominates the experience. But prepare to see many Asian touches on the modern menu, in creative dishes that masterfully bend ethnic borders. The Ritz-Carlton, 1 Ritz-Carlton Drive, 949-240-2000. $$$ WATERMAN’S HARBOR A beacon of new on Dana Point Harbor’s salt-worn embarcadero, this sleek seafooder offers two floors with scenic views of the breakwater action, including a big, breezy patio shaded from the sun’s rays on those high UV days. Fresh oysters are the $1.50 star of happy hour. 34661 Golden Lantern St., 949764-3474. $$$

anaheim ballet presents

a r c c k t er u N The

OC’s own Nutcracker with Symphony Irvine

Nov 27 | 2 & 7 p.m.

City National Grove of Anaheim

Dec 9-12 | 3 & 7 p.m.

Riverside Resort, Laughlin, NV

AnaheimBallet.org/Nutcracker

Catch the Spirit of the Season! Anaheim Ballet is a 501(c)(3) not for profit organization

PHOTOGRAPH BY ROBERT ARROYO

FOUNTAIN VALLE Y THE RECESS ROOM This city’s first gastropub exists because five childhood pals needed a local haunt for gathering after their weekly basketball game. Food and booze enjoy equal amounts of love at this 148-seat venue—a cleverly retooled former Coco’s. Expect small-batch, offbeat brews and ace craft cocktails, plus lots of rich, shareable noshes. Think tender octopus with toasted quinoa for contrast, luscious pork cheeks confit, and lime-yuzu panna cotta. 18380 Brookhurst St., 714-377-0398. $$$

SO CAN YOU. November 2021 • Or a nge Coast 97

DINING GUIDE FULLERTON THE CELL AR Downtown Fullerton’s abiding choice for classy, oldschool French dining is a North County staple for romantic meals, thanks to an underground room that’s ornate, yet cozy. Expect swanky choices such as chateaubriand, and a fine dark chocolate souffle. 305 N. Harbor Blvd., 714-525-5682. $$$ EARLY BIRD Imaginative breakfasts washed down with in-season, single-origin coffee make this humble hang Fullerton’s sleeper for the foodie crowd. Look for duck confit hash, buckwheat flapjacks with ginger-citrus syrup, or trendy hits like buttermilk fried chicken and waffles, complete with house gravy. 1000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-529-4100. Breakfast and lunch. $$ KHAN SAAB DESI CRAFT KITCHEN Born in the crucible of the pandemic, this halal bistro serves flavorful kabobs, curries, and street snacks alongside wood-fired wagyu steaks. Creator and executive chef Imran Ali Mookhi applies a Michelin mindset acquired after years in fine-dining kitchens. Khan Saab has the best stocked alcohol-free bar in O.C. 229 E. Commonwealth Ave., 714-853-1081. $$ MIIRCH SOCIAL This Indian mashup is a relaxed haunt that leans modern. The open kitchen serves traditional Indian cuisine tweaked with global ingredients or Indian flavors applied to comfort foods. Think butter chicken paneer poutine, nine-spice tandoori wings, and a fabulous lamb biryani. Don’t overlook the ingenious cocktails and mocktails. 138 W. Commonwealth Ave., 714-519-3501 $$ SUMMIT HOUSE Set high above Fullerton’s northern city limits, this imposing Tudor manor house offers a sparkling citylights view at night, though the attractive grounds are pretty by day, too. The American menu offers few surprises; British-style prime rib and oak-grilled Skuna Bay salmon are reliable. Polished service brings back plenty of special-occasion diners. The cozy tavern bar is popular for light meals and happy hour. 2000 E. Bastanchury Road, 714-671-4111. $$$

HUNTINGTON BE ACH BLK EARTH SEA SPIRITS The tourist crowd is mixed with locals year-round at this second-floor spot with a magnetic beach view. Chef Jesus Munoz’s photo-ready dishes deliver the satisfaction that builds a fan base for Prime Akaushi steaks and huge Australian lobster tails at the expected steep prices. Attentive service always makes a fat tab go down easier. Garage parking is a huge plus during summers in Surf City. 300 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-960-0996. $$$ LSXO Step back in time to colonial Vietnam at this vest-pocket hideaway with only 28 seats. Chef-owner Tin Vuong amplifies his successful L.A. Little Sister act with a sultry setting (tucked inside of huge Bluegold) and uncompromising Viet fare inspired by his roots and frequent travels to South Vietnam. Nifty craft cocktails and luxe dishes such as salt and pepper lobster make a good date night, but we also like the street-style noshes such as prawn crepes and lemongrass skewers. Fair warn-

98 Ora nge C o a st • November 2021

Truffle oil chicken tikka at Miirch Social

ing: The uncensored rap soundtrack is not for all ears. 21016 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-374-0083. $$ PUESTO This high-profile taqueria expands its UPDATE O.C. presence with a third epic site, this one in Bella Terra. Eye-candy lighting, a rotating steampunk back bar, and breezy patio compete for attention alongside jazzy drinks and dramatic tacocentric eats. Handmade blue corn tortillas and cheesy Oaxacan fricos give these tacos a signature difference. Ask about the monthly taco special. 7821 Edinger Ave., 714-316-0151. $$ See Irvine and Anaheim locations. RED TABLE The “red” in Red Table, Huntington Harbour mall’s neighborhood tavern, stands for “relax, eat, drink.” The creative menu of American eats is big on highcarb snacks, savory share plates, and strapping proteins that feel right in a welcoming setting accented with quirky design elements and a red communal table. 16821 Algonquin St., 714-846-4700. Beer and wine. $$ SESSIONS Surf City is the ideal spot for the second “West Coast deli,” this time across from the sand. Terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two are gourmet creations, meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. From-scratch soups, sides, and dressings. A surfer ethos extends to hearty breakfasts featuring Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 414 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-594-3899. Beer and wine. See Irvine and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $ WATERTABLE Here’s a rare bird, a hotel restaurant in a tourist resort that the locals love for lots of reasons. Progressive takes on global dishes, tip-top craft cocktails, copious happy hours, and the steady hand of longtime Chef Manfred Lassahn keep this venue on point. We return just for the white cheddar

and thyme biscuits with seasonal butter. The new morning lineup of health-first bowls, smoothies, and toasts caters to beach runners. Hyatt Regency, 21500 Pacific Coast Highway, 714-845-4776. $$$

IRVINE ANDREI’S CONSCIOUS CUISINE & COCKTAILS Irvine’s ever-slicker business zone is a good home for this classy, top-floor, New American choice for power diners, office pals, and couples. Modern craft cocktails enhance a menu that blends California ingredients with global flavors. Top toque Porfiro Gomez’s menu retains favorites such as the beef spring rolls, watermelon salad, and Duroc pork T-bone. Happy hour is a standout in a crowded field. 2607 Main St., 949-387-8887. $$ BISTANGO A longtime airport-area mainstay, Bistango has remained surprisingly contemporary, with creative dishes such as sweet, soulful garlic soup, and black truffle ravioli. It’s also a classy venue for live music, and its rotating art collection adds to the air of urban sophistication. 19100 Von Karman Ave., 949-752-5222. $$$ CHA CHA’S L ATIN KITCHEN This addition to the restaurant family owned by industry vets Don Myers and Peter Serantoni is an inviting casa with a menu of modern Mexican fare boosted by commendable new dishes that blur some borders—sopes, empanadas, aguachile, and pozole to name a few. The indoor-meets-outdoor patio by designer Thomas Schoos is a fine upgrade of the Brea flagship. Weekly specials add value and excitement. Impressive tequila menu. 13126 Jamboree Road, 714-408-7819. See Brea location. $$ CUCINA ENOTECA This 285-seat operation from San Diego’s Urban Kitchen Group offers two sprawling patios and a huge, lively dining room with bar and wine minimarket, and the scene oozes chic with scads of photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

handmade furnishings for sale. The Cal-Ital menu is equally large and inventive, from spreads in Mason jars and salumi platters to handmade pastas. Particularly good for large parties. 532 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-861-2222. See Newport Beach location. $$ HABANA We waited 22 years for this glamorous Habana sibling, and it was worth it—a sprawling 300-seat compound that co-opts Cuba’s frozen-in-time splendor. A roomy patio open to the sky is made intimate by high walls and lots of beautiful props and vignettes, with alcoves dedicated to house pastries and coffees. Despite the impressive scale, the menu hews tightly to the focused offerings at its Costa Mesa original. 708 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-419-0100. See Costa Mesa location. $$$ JA JIAOZI It’s all about handmade dumplings here. They grace every table, anchoring meals rounded out with other hot and cold dishes. First-timers, ask your able server for help. Top picks include steamed Flaming Hot and boiled Signature jiaozi (Chinese dumplings), along with refreshing tofu-skin salad. Top-notch shrimp fried rice is a winner, too. Watch the masters at work from a five-seat bar. 13776 Jamboree Road, Irvine, 714-786-8999. $$ LITTLE SISTER This Irvine Spectrum spot is an XXL bistro NEW to older sister shop LSXO. Chef-partner Tim Vuong musters a team that pulls off a bigger menu, bigger digs, and a bigger profile with ease. Find proven faves—the overstuffed Viet crepe and the

Shaky Shaky Beef—plus new lunch porridges and banh mis streaming out of the kitchen to a bustling dining room. Vintage rap tracks and a crackerjack bar keep the vibe lively. 896 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-800-8798. $$$ MEIZHOU DONGPO Good seating, engaged service, and touches of elegance elevate this classy Sichuan dining room, a retool of a 6,000-square-foot Marie Callender’s in bustling Culver Plaza. Access is easy, and plentiful parking is free. Beyond that, it’s all about the Beijing-style roast duck (whole, $77; half, $40), meticulously sliced into petals of tender meat crowned with crackling amber skin, for rolling into thin crepes. Weeks of aging, drying, and lacquering coax out heady flavors. Spicy values include dan dan noodles and country-style sliced pork. 15363 Culver Drive, 949-433-5686. Beer and wine. $$$ PORCH & SWING This delightful indie serves a “taste BEST NEW RESTAURANT of Charleston” starring original riffs 2021 on American classics and cocktails by Andrew Parish. Must-try dishes include roasted pork jowl over grits, amazing creamless creamed corn, and gorgeous salads. House-baked breads are a strength, too. The patio is lovely. 2010 Main St., 949-418-7988. $$ PUESTO San Diego’s high-profile taqueria has two Irvine options for O.C. fans. Delectable tacos are the main event, elevated by crispy griddled Oaxacan cheese, and tortillas made by hand from

organic, non-GMO, blue corn masa. The cheese is especially brilliant on vegetarian tacos. Always ask about the monthly taco special. The Park Place center location’s indoor-meets-outdoor venue is intimate and color-splashed. Park Place, 3311 Michelson Drive, 949-608-7272; Los Olivos Marketplace, 8577 Irvine Center Drive, 949-608-9990. $$ See Anaheim and Huntington Beach locations. ROBATA WASA From the wizards behind popular Wasa sushi comes this sleek, authentic izakaya at the Spectrum, ideal for noshing Japanese comfort nibbles at lunch or after a movie, or tossing back sakes and brews. 926 Spectrum Center Drive, 949-536-5064. $$ SESSIONS No. 3 is a charm for O.C.’s indie chainlet of “West Coast” delis. Expect terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two, gourmet creations that are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. Fromscratch soups, sides, and dressings. A beguiling lakeside setting beckons for lazy breakfasts featuring Kéan coffee and house-made granola. 4736 Barranca Parkway, 949-333-3949. Beer and wine. See Huntington Beach and Newport Beach locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $ SAM WOO RESTAURANT Many don’t know this reasonably priced, no-frills place is not named after someone called Sam Woo— the term actually refers to the Chinese notion of harmony. Yanked-from-the-tank seafood is a spe-

THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 18, 2021 5:00 PM– 9:00 PM

DINING GUIDE

Pork belly Benedict at Sapphire Cellar Craft Cook

cialty, as are dim sum and Hong Kong noodle dishes. Service is reliably speedy and brusque. For faster carry-out meals, try the express buffet next door. 15333 Culver Drive, 949-262-0688. Beer and wine. $ TACO ROSA With agave-sweetened margaritas, daily aguas frescas, and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. Try the Oaxacan enchiladas. 13792 Jamboree Road, 714-5056080. See Newport Beach location. $$ TWO LEFT FORKS This inland sibling has the strong appeal of its now-closed original Dana Point location, except the coastal site has been swapped for a roomier space with easy parking, as well as lunch and weekend brunch service. Come here for bananas Foster pancakes or an open-face sandwich with burrata, prosciutto, avocado, and eggs your way. Popular for happy hour. 6511 Quail Hill Parkway, 949-3876700. $$$

LAGUNA BE ACH BROADWAY BY AMAR SANTANA Boy wonder chef Amar Santana and industry vet Ahmed Labbate decamped Charlie Palmer to create this sexy urban bistro. Fans old and new keep the tight quarters humming to the backdrop of an open kitchen and vintage flicks playing on the flat-screen over the expansive bar. Santana’s dishes are opulent and intense. The wine list includes many notable half-bottles. 328 Glenneyre St., 949-715-8234. $$$ BRUSSELS BISTRO Loud and lively, this bistro brings a bit of Belgium to Orange County, with traditional beers on tap and an authentic menu. Stick with the tasty burger on rustic bread, or the mussels, served with the requisite frites. 222 Forest Ave., 949-376-7955. $$

100 Ora nge C o ast • November 2021

CARMELITA’S KITCHEN DE MEXICO This is the boutique version of Rancho Santa Margarita’s sprawling shop, but both offer top-notch Cal-Mex fare. Expect Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, and Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Don’t miss costillitas—baby back ribs topped with fried onions. Outstanding margaritas. Warm, spiffy service. 217 Broadway St., 949-715-7829. See Rancho Santa Margarita location. $$ THE DRAKE The grown-ups sipping cocktails are here for a full serving of primo live music paired with the cuisine of Paul Gstrein (ex of Bistango and Bayside). Laguna’s own Alec Glasser prevails in creating a dashing joint where both the musicians and the kitchen have serious chops. Diners dig into Euro-inflected dishes (try the lamb lollipops, the Alpine Melt, the chile-lime swordfish). Musicians dig the highbrow sound system, and the room generates a superlative groove. 2894 S. Coast Highway, 949-376-1000. $$$ DRIFTWOOD KITCHEN With its gorgeous seaside panorama, this place perfectly illustrates the food-versus-view gamble. Prudent choices on chef Rainer Schwarz’s seasonal menu include whole fried fish, an unusual entree pairing of butcher steak-pork belly, and tarts by pastry chef Rene Baez. Brunch items and craft cocktails also are good bets. 619 Sleepy Hollow Lane, 949-715-7700. $$ HARLEY L AGUNA BEACH Refreshed to a comfy sheen, this landmark twostory tavern is unfussy and welcoming with vintage family photos on the wall, some featuring the chef’s Grandpa Harley. As ever, chef-owner Greg Daniels coaxes savoriness from goods sourced from small producers such as Gonestraw Farms in Riverside. Their eggs with bright-orange yolks become soft, jammy “deviled” eggs. Gonestraw chicken also stars in a lovely potpie with celery root, heirloom carrots, and the warm aura of curry. For dessert, downhome pecan pie and ice cream made with honey

from Orange Park Acres’ own Backyard Bees. 370 Glenneyre St., 949-715-1530. Dinner only. $$$ MOZAMBIQUE The eclectic cuisine shows influences of South Africa. Peri-peri prawns, curries, and grilled meats are best bets. The wine list includes interesting selections from South Africa and New Zealand. 1740 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-7777. $$$ NICK’S Perched on Laguna’s prime stretch of Coast Highway, this inviting, urbane bar and grill lures grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of tasty cocktails and a compact all-day menu of comfort classics with modern twists. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened halibut sandwich. Softly lit and cushily appointed, the open-air space boasts a sidewalk patio. Sociable service is notably polished. 440 S. Coast Highway, 949-3768595. See San Clemente location. $$ OLIVER’S OSTERIA Wedged into an oddball canyon retail center, this tidy shop is chef-owner Erik De Marchi’s all-out defense of faithful fare inspired by his home turf of Italy’s Emilia-Romana region. Pastas are wondrous, but do wait to hear the daily specials that can include juicy lamb chops or crepes (crespelle) with porcini mushrooms in truffle-perfumed béchamel. Tight quarters make dining noisy when the room is full. And Oliver? He’s De Marchi’s first child, born on opening day. 853 Laguna Canyon Road, 949-715-0261. $$$ SAPPHIRE CELL AR CRAFT COOK The latest incarnation of Laguna Beach’s historic Coast Highway venue is much better than it has to be, given its bulletproof location. Upmarket, innovative American cuisine by executive chef Jared Cook includes irresistible weekend brunch waffles and Benedicts, classy lunch salads, and dinners that star fresh oysters and a splendid ribeye. On-site pantry for beach eats. 1200 South Coast Highway, 949-715-9888. $$$ SEL ANNE STEAK TAVERN Anaheim Ducks star Teemu Selanne cements his brand with this polished and popular steak joint on a venerated stretch of Coast Highway. Prime, pricey beef rules the day on executive chef Vince Terusa’s menu designed for a pro athlete’s appetite and fan base. We like the main floor’s easy, breezy tavern for terrific cocktails, the superlative burger, and world-class people watching. 1464 S. Coast Highway, 949-715-9881. Dinner only. $$$ SPL ASHES RESTAURANT Easily one of our coast’s top resort options for a surf’s-edge indulgence, this contemporary dining room and lounge are famed for pricey romantic meals and sunset drinks. Ron Fougeray is executive chef. A stunning Pacific view dazzles, as does Fougeray’s five-star resume that includes a James Beard nomination. Expect seasonal, coastal fare. Ask for lower-level patio seating and you might feel spray off the crashing waves. Surf & Sand Resort, 1555 S. Coast Highway, 888-281-3502. $$$

LAGUNA HILLS IRONWOOD The savvy team behind Vine in San Clemente notches another hit with this welcoming dinner house in a zone with scant options. Executive

photographs by E M I LY J . D AV I S

chef Jared Cook’s modern, seasonal menu roams from delicate to hearty, but all dishes showcase his knack for upping the crave factor. Examples: chicken schnitzel with mushrooms, Zinfandelbraised lamb shank with mint yogurt. Terrific craft cocktails shift with the seasons. On-point service from a gracious crew. 25250 La Paz Road, 949-4468772. Dinner only. $$$

LAGUNA NIGUEL CALO KITCHEN + TEQUIL A Chic and breezy as a Baja resort, this sprawling spot has its act together, luring local crowds for upscale Mexican classics. An unending flow of worthy margaritas keeps the white marble bar humming while the kitchen churns out well executed shrimp ceviche, carnitas, combo plates, and short rib enchiladas. Huge portions, sharp service, and modern digs seal the deal. Scores of sipping tequilas delight agave fans. 28141 Crown Valley Parkway, 949-4097380. $$$ HENDRIX Teeming with natural light and coastal breezes, Hendrix swaggers into Laguna Niguel with a place that promises something for everyone in this optionlean suburb. It’s from the group behind Laguna Beach’s The Deck and Driftwood Kitchen, and partner Austrian-born Rainer Schwarz is executive chef. A showpiece rotisserie roasts plump chickens, porchetta, and lamb while basting potatoes in the catch bin with juices from the meats. Irresistible small plates include prosciutto fritters, Brussels sprouts with Marcona almonds, and chicken-fontina flatbread. 32431 Golden Lantern, 949-248-1912. $$

LA HABRA EL CHOLO It’s combo-plate heaven at this venerable local chain that started in L.A. in 1923. The Sonora-style enchiladas are topped with olives and a fried egg. Green corn tamales (available seasonally) have achieved cult status. This location oozes a family vibe. 840 E. Whittier Blvd., 562-691-4618. See Anaheim Hills and Corona del Mar locations. $

MISSION VIEJO DUBLIN 4 GASTROPUB Publicans Darren and Jean Coyle welcome a varied crowd to this chipper modern pub, designed to rival Dublin’s finest. Executive chef David Shofner applies fine-dining cred and scratch cooking to a menu of new and old-school fare that sparkles. Don’t-miss items include premium cottage pies, a killer lamb burger, and anything with house-cured meats. Upscale pricing and dapper surroundings prove this is not your frat brother’s Irish pub. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. $$$ WINEWORKS FOR EVERYONE This near-hidden pocket bistro is a top choice for wine-centric cuisine in South County. A retooled menu by chef David Shofner, who also helms the kitchen at Dublin 4 next door, brims with seasonal California fare that flatters a wine list of West Coast and international bottles. Must-haves include sausage flatbread, and a killer cheese plate. 26342 Oso Parkway, 949-582-0026. Beer and wine. $$$

Heirloom carrots at Fable & Spirit

NE W P ORT BE AC H A&O KITCHEN + BAR A serious reboot of this fabled lounge—formerly Duke’s—transforms this waterside venue into a gastropub with a newly youthful vibe. Expect all the usual share plates: battered fries, shishito peppers, bacon-wrapped dates, plus several hearty plates including a worthy Kobe burger with bacon mayo on a cheddar-bacon bun. Bold, neonautical decor plays off the “anchors and oceans” theme and brings the bay view to life. The water’s-edge patio is inviting for sunset drinks or gathering ’round the fire pit. Balboa Bay Resort, 1221 W. Coast Highway, 949-630-4285. $$ BAYSIDE Classy Bayside remains a go-to choice on many fronts. Nightly happy hour stars a winning small-plates menu that keeps the bar hopping. Rotating artwork keeps the dining room ever fresh for re-laxed meals of debonair American fare. Long favored by the coastal set for jazzy brunches, insiders stop in Friday night for a legendary jam session in the bar. Prix fixe menus are a strength here. 900 Bayside Drive, 949-721-1222. $$$ BELLO BY SANDRO NARDONE

Previously of upmarket pizzeria Angelina’s, Sandro Nardone flies solo with this molto moderno Italiano overhaul of a sprawling spot. Nardone’s style is urbane, so expect no lasagna here. Instead, look for distinctive creations such as mortadella mousse canoli with liquid pineapple mustard. Crispy octopus with Calabrian vinaigrette is another crowd favorite. Cocktails show imagination, and the wine list has some rare gems. Coming soon, Nardone’s take on hip patio brunching. 1200 Bison Ave., 949520-7191. $$$ THE CANNERY The 1921 landmark structure has dazzled diners for more than 50 years with its waterfront site, pristine seafood, and top chops. Executive chef Marcus Hagan keeps the menu relevant by adding new

dishes, say baked Peruvian scallops, to classics such as the trusted lobster roll. Also check out The Snug, a cozy bar downstairs, carved from the main dining room. Dockside dining offered for boaters. 3010 Lafayette Road, 949-566-0060. $$$ CUCINA ENOTECA Chef de cuisine Cesar Sarmiento helms the busy scratch kitchen of this Fashion Island sibling. The sprawling, lively space with its alluring garden room, hip cocktails, and fun wines supports inventive takes on classic pastas, cured meats, and creative breads. Like the Irvine location, this venue offers a retail wine boutique and lots of quirky-chic furnishings for sale. Daily happy hour is a deal for tony Fashion Island. 951 Newport Center Drive, 949-7061416. See Irvine location. $$ EDDIE V’S WILDFISH Wildfish lures a loyal following. The finely calibrated menu of pristine seafood and first-class steaks keeps the glossy room and fireplace patio hopping, especially for nightly happy hour deals when upscale locals crowd the sleek bar. Urbane service. Strong wine list. 1370 Bison Ave., 949-720-9925. $$$ FABLE & SPIRIT From the family behind Dublin 4 BEST NEW RESTAURANT comes this lush addition to the area 2020 across from Lido Marina Village. But don’t assume this is an Irish pub that mimics the other. This plush room features inventive fare that’s a mashup of American and Irish. Here you start with Hares Looking at You, a cocktail starring Wheatley vodka and carrot juice, move on to the refined beet agnolotti with chèvre foam, or share a woodfired duck confit pizetta. Yes, the fish and chips are superior, but so is the rabbit fricassee. 3441 Via Lido, 949-409-9913. $$$ GULFSTREAM Heavenly biscuits, baked to order, and pristine oysters, shucked to order (in season), are two reasons to visit this popular bar and restaurant. The sand-floor patio with glowing fire pit attracts singles, while the November 2021 • Or a nge Coast 101

DINING GUIDE ocean-fresh fare draws foodies. If freshly caught seafood doesn’t appeal, there are terrestrial dishes such as mustard barbecue beef ribs. 850 Avocado Ave., 949-718-0188. $$$ HARBORSIDE RESTAURANT One of O.C.’s most iconic landmarks, the 1906 Balboa Pavilion still lures visitors to its harbor view, and celebrants to its sweeping ballroom for special events and weddings galore. Expect a safe menu of all-American classics. Locals love that happy hour starts at 11:30 a.m. 400 Main St., 949-673-4633. $$ HOOK & SPEAR Executive chef Andy Arndt offers sustainable coastal cuisine at this indoor-outdoor venue with a Pacific view. Start with Hawaiian shrimp with hearts of palm, yuzu kosho, and mint. The day’s catch varies by season, but landlubbers can indulge in Anderson Valley lamb sirloin or a 40-ounce tomahawk chop with balsamic sprouts. A chill lounge is apropos for cold brews, small plates, and comfy game watching. Newport Beach Marriott Hotel & Spa, 900 Newport Center Drive, 949-729-6900. $$$ LIDO BOTTLE WORKS This handsome waterfront venue sounds like a liquor store, but it’s a sleeper of a full-service restaurant hiding in the swanky Lido Marina Village development. Hyper-seasonal and prettily plated, notable creations include Dory Fleet catches of the day, opulent Iberico secreto pork, a solid burger, and one glorious chocolate mousse. 3408 Via Oporto, 949-529-2784. $$

MALIBU FARM LIDO Malibu farm girl and native Swede Helene Henderson adds another ocean-air venue for colorful organic fare. The all-day menu boasts fat burritos, fruit-covered grain, or yogurt bowls and savory options that include the bestseller, an outstanding fried egg sandwich with great bacon and Havarti on country toast with lemon aioli. Multigrain pancakes are worthy, but Swedish mini pancakes with berries and cream are stupendous. 3420 Via Oporto, 949-791-2096. $$ MOULIN Moulin is the passion project of Paris native Laurent Vrignaud. After 30 years in the action-sports industry, he lives his longtime dream of serving bistro classics, selling oven-fresh baguettes and grab-and-go dishes, and peddling wines and other French pantry items. The unfussy bistro and patio evoke Paris at every turn. It’s O.C.’s gathering spot for expats and Francophiles. 1000 Bristol St. North, 949-474-0920. Locations (not reviewed) in Laguna Beach and Costa Mesa. $$ OLEA CELL AR CRAFT COOK Eastside’s dapper dinner house is the latest offering from the polished crew behind sister restaurants Ironwood and Vine, a homegrown hospitality group. Fans of chef Jared Cook will recognize some familiar dishes from his sibling shops, but there are exclusives here, too. We’re mad for the opulent duck liver terrine with bacon and bourbon, and those fine oysters baked with blue crab in tarragon butter. Add top-notch cocktails and 50

O.C. Scene MISSION SAN JUAN CAPISTRANO’S ROMANCE OF THE MISSION GALA Mission San Juan’s Romance of the Mission benefit gala was held on the historic grounds of Mission San Juan Capistrano. With limited attendance and health protocols in place, nearly 350 contributed to the evening’s success with gross proceeds of just over $650K. Connie and Dr. Peter Spenuzza were recognized for their longtime philanthropy and support of the Mission where Connie has served on the Preservation Foundation Board of Directors for over 15 years. Guests enjoyed an inspiring concert Loren Allred who performed magnificently in the ruins of The Great Stone Church followed by a four-course meal hosted by Inn at the Mission San Juan Capistrano and Rancho Capistrano Winery. For more information or to learn about how to support Mission San Juan Capistrano, visit missionsjc.com. Photo Credit: Lisa Renee Photography

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notable wines by the glass. 2001 Westcliff Drive, Newport Beach, 949-287-6807. Dinner nightly. $$$ SABATINO’S LIDO SHIPYARD SAUSAGE CO. Peter Sabatino used to deliver his mom’s sausages door to door in Chicago. Now customers come to him in Newport Beach, where he sells 300 to 400 pounds a day from his restaurant. The old-school Italian menu and comfy patio make it a relaxing spot for first dates or family dinners of pastas, seafood, and, of course, dishes loaded with his secretrecipe sausages. 251 Shipyard Way, 949-723-0621. Beer and wine. $$ SESSIONS This busy “West Coast deli” on the peninsula crafts terrific sandwiches that eat like a meal for two. Gourmet creations with kooky names are meticulous stacks of top ingredients with exacting ratios, so every ’wich is scrumptious to the last bite. A surfer vibe extends to hearty breakfasts at 7 a.m. daily, starring Golden State Coffee Roaster coffee. 2823 Newport Blvd., 949-220-9001. Beer and wine. See Huntington Beach and Irvine locations. Fourth location (not reviewed) in Newport Beach at 101 Newport Center Drive. $ SHOREBIRD Hidden inside the Vue Newport enclave, Shorebird is invisible until you enter the airy split-level space dominated by its waterfront view. Expect contemporary American fare plus familiar side detours for sushi and tacos. Best bets include Duroc pork chop, lump crab cakes, avocado fries. 2220 Newport Blvd., 949-287-6627. $$$

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SUSHI ROKU The sixth location of this Cal-Japanese concept makes a huge impression with striking decor and vibrant cuisine. If the dining room’s busier than the sushi bar, blame the thoughtfully designed and executed menu, notably dishes such as fluke kumquat sashimi, blue crab tartare, Prime ribeye Japonais, and the deconstructed s’mores. The creative sushi deserves a night all its own, and the bar and patio offer their own vibes. Look for scores of noodles, salads, and bento boxes at lunch, and sakes. 327 Newport Center Drive, 949-706-3622. $$$ TACO ROSA With agave-sweetened margaritas and house-made churros, these flagships of the Taco Mesa chain take fresh Mex to the max. 2632 San Miguel Road, 949720-0980. See Irvine location. $$ TAVERN HOUSE KITCHEN + BAR David Wilhelm, the county’s restaurant laureate, returns to Newport Beach with this fetching and welcome rehab of a waterside venue. Menus read like a playlist of Wilhelm’s champion recipes tweaked for 2020. Stand out new dishes for dinner and weekend brunch include red snapper Veracruzana, Buddha bowls, sirloin meatballs, and fried chicken with malted waffles. Look for a natty presunset happy hour on weekdays. 333 Bayside Drive, 949-673-8464. $$ TOMMY BAHAMA RESTAURANT, BAR & STORE Freshly unveiled after a major face-lift, this local favorite strives to remain relevant. The coastal cuisine is well-executed, from a menu that keeps up

with dishes such as seared scallop sliders, za’atarcrusted ahi tuna with Beluga lentils, and filet mignon flatbread. As always, drinks are inviting with a tropical theme; the Mai Tai is the best around. A supersleek new patio is lighter, brighter, and bigger. This is a great place to meet for happy hour. 854 Avocado Ave., 949-760-8686. $$ THE WINERY RESTAURANT & WINE BAR The snazzy venue overlooks the yacht and Duffy boat traffic in Newport Harbor, flaunting its waterfront charms with 180-degree views from two floors plus a cigar patio. The space sizzles with bonhomie— and diners who love their surf, turf, wine, and VIP treatment. Expect cosseting service from partners JC Clow, William Lewis, and executive chef Yvon Goetz. Best bets include Goetz’s signature Alsatian “pizza” and the Colorado buffalo carpaccio. 3131 W. Coast Highway, 949-999-6622. See Tustin location. $$$

NE WPORT COAST THE BEACHCOMBER The surf’s-edge view might be better than the food, but the drinks and eats are good enough to keep this iconic spot packed with beachgoers, especially in summer. Stick with basics such as grilled artichokes, lobster club, and stuffed salmon. Executive chef Carlos Olivera oversees the breakfast, lunch, and dinner menus that change slightly each season. 15 Crystal Cove, 949-376-6900. $$$

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BLUEFIN Adroit chef Takashi Abe applies his considerable talents to pristine ingredients he fashions into gorgeous works of edible Japanese art. His omakase is transcendent (and cheaper at lunch). The setting is suitably spare and visually soothing. Superior sake selection. 7952 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 949-715-7373. $$$ MARCHÉ MODERNE The finest French bistro south of BEST NEW RESTAURANT Beverly Hills is reborn in coastal digs 2018 that express a fresh chapter for the redoubtable Florent and Amelia Marneau. Added space and oversize windows let the outdoors into a room that oozes grace and sophistication. Beloved dishes such as Spanish octopus with chorizo return to the dinner menu alongside new creations from the open kitchen—think crispy suckling pigs and beans, a three-day cassoulet. Amelia’s new desserts include ravishing Napoleons served weekends only. 7862 E. Pacific Coast Highway, 714-434-7900. $$$ MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB O.C.’s flashiest hipsters gather here to be nursed like they’re bleeding cash. And they are. Megamartinis, obese lobsters, and Bible-thick steaks don’t come cheap, but this dramatic setting does offer the ocean view and suave service worthy of its position as our finest castle of cholesterol consumption. Thursdays are famed for singles action that approaches tournament level. 8112 E. Coast Highway, 949-376-6990. See South Coast Metro location. $$$

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FAMILIES FORWARD “LIGHT UP THE NIGHT” GALA Families Forward which is committed to helping local families experiencing homelessness or at risk of becoming homeless is pleased to announce that its supporters contributed more than $380,000 during its annual “Light Up the Night” Gala which was held virtually. Announced at the gala, it has joined forces with Orange Coast Gateway to Housing (formerly Orange Coast Interfaith Shelter), furthering its mission of providing lasting housing solutions to families experiencing homelessness in Orange County. Photos Courtesy of Families Forward

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DINING GUIDE ZOV’S NEWPORT COAST This attractive shopping center offshoot of the popular original Zov’s in Tustin is a go-to patio cafe that lures locals with creative Cal-Med dishes such as Moroccan salmon salad, spiced lamb burger, and pomegranate baby back ribs. Desserts are a standout, as are cocktails and chic mezze starters. 21123 Newport Coast Drive, 949-760-9687. See Tustin location. $$$

ORANGE BOSSCAT KITCHEN & LIBATIONS Old Towne’s newest gastropub thoughtfully transforms a historic corner into a lively whiskey bar serving worthy eats with a southern accent. Look for parm-crusted meatloaf, gulf shrimp and grits, and a yowza burger. The service is sharp. Sunday brunch and a robust midweek happy hour. 118 W. Chapman Ave., 714-716-1599. $$ HAVEN CRAFT KITCHEN + BAR A serious contender in the gastropub category, this popular storefront in Old Towne lures a mixed crowd of brew fanatics and foodies, thanks to a rich roster of esoteric suds and polished pub grub from chef Craig Brady. Dishes such as a braised lamb pappardelle and coriander roasted baby carrots. Lunch and early dinner are options for bypassing the deafening din that rises with the crowd. 190 S. Glassell St., 714-221-0680. $$ THE HOBBIT Gustatory delights worthy of Gatsby attract diners on special occasions to this gracious hacienda, where dinners are seven-course pageants that start with bubbly and nibbles in the wine cellar, and end hours later on the cigar patio. Each night’s menu is set weeks in advance—and so are most reservations. 2932 E. Chapman Ave., 714-997-1972. Reservations required. $$$

RANCHO SANTA MARGARITA THE BLIND PIG KITCHEN & BAR Lakeside seats, terrific craft cocktails, and daring fare by young chef Karl Pfleider earn local love for this rare gastro-canteen in Rancho Santa Margarita. Midweek tapas start at 3 p.m. with goodies such as steak tartare with pistachio XO sauce. But wait until 5 p.m. for the mahi-mahi with paprika mole. 31431 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949888-0072. Second location (not reviewed) in Yorba Linda, 4975 Lakeview Ave., 714-485-2593. $$ CARMELITA’S KITCHEN This lakefront sprawler offers top-notch Cal-Mex fare from the culinary vision of owner Clemente Heredia Jr., a third-generation operator. Expect Prime beef in the steak tampiqueña, Kurobuta pork in the wonderful carnitas. Outstanding margaritas. Warm, spiffy service. 31441 Santa Margarita Parkway, 949-709-7600. See Laguna Beach location. $$

SAN CLEMENTE BRICK The menu of authentic, seasonal cuisine says Italy, but the unfussy setting and beach-casual regulars make for a solid California vibe at this trattoria by chef-owner David Pratt. Thin-crust pizzas from the wood-fired Valoriani oven are composed with care, but don’t miss the house-made pastas and seasonal 104 Ora nge C o ast • November 2021

Shakshuka at Mayfield salads. Amazing meatballs, too. 216 N. El Camino Real, 949-429-1199. $$ MRK PUBLIC Three chefs, two of them former co-chefs at Tabu Grill in Laguna Beach, transform a fast-casual fixture into a winning spot that offers craft beers, all $5, and a tightly edited menu of elevated favorites, notably Tuscan toast, and a terrific fried chicken sandwich. The rear counter offers a distant ocean view. 1402 S. El Camino Real, 949-441-7621. Beer and wine. $ NICK’S On a prime stretch of vintage Avenida del Mar, this inviting bar and grill is just urbane enough to lure grown-ups who prefer to skip the surfer grub scene in favor of crackerjack cocktails and a compact allday menu of comfort classics with a modern twist. Ace bets include the steakhouse salad and blackened fish sandwich. And there’s a sidewalk patio with fireplace. Sociable service is notably polished. 213 Avenida del Mar, 949-481-2200. See Laguna Beach location. $$ SOUTH OF NICK’S From the festive boxes of Chiclets at the reception station to scores of fine-sipping tequilas at the roomy bar, this beach burg shop from the team behind Nick’s is all about hospitality and scratch cooking. Cocktails are special, so are desserts, but don’t miss the feel-good dishes such as mini-sopes, sea bass in poblano cream, and pork chile verde. 110 N. El Camino Real, 949-481-4545. Second location (not reviewed) in Laguna Beach at 540 S. Coast Hwy., 949-376-8595. $$ VINE A decor revamp of the cozy dining room and a menu overhaul add up to impressive new heights, because owner Russ Bendel Jr. wisely gives sauce monster and executive chef Jared Cook full reign over the kitchen. Look for killer duck wings and nightly specials that tend to sell out. A garden out back only

sweetens this beach burg gem. 211 N. El Camino Real, 949-361-2079. Dinner only. $$$

SAN JUAN C APISTRANO L’HIRONDELLE This pudgy, white adobe in the mission’s shadow charms with home cooking of the French-Belgian sort. The snug room has a cozy aura for chilly nights; the flowery patio suits the cuisine. 31631 Camino Capistrano, 949-661-0425. Beer and wine. $$ MAYFIELD Modern, hyper-seasonal California fare meets the timeless food ways of the Middle East at this ingenious newcomer. Breezy two-story digs include a pretty quartz bar for leading-edge cocktails. Do try fried eggplant, lamb meatballs, and shareable dips. By day, look for indulgent brunch dishes. 31761 Camino Capistrano, 949-218-5140. $$$ PUBLIC 74 This county-line gastropub radiates a welcoming vibe that attracts customers of all types to its fauxramshackle chic, second-story venue. Craft brews, booze, and decidedly eclectic eats change often, as executive chef Gerry Kent keeps the smallish menu seasonal. Definitely consider the two-handed Reuben, and there’s a seasonal monster burger. 27211 Ortega Highway, 949-481-2723. $$ RAMOS HOUSE CAFÉ A sweet adobe hiding in the historic Los Rios district, Ramos House Café turns out some of South County’s most delectable daytime fare. Contemporary and clever American breakfasts and lunches (brunch on weekends) have a distinct Southern accent that fits the rustic, alfresco setting with passing trains as soundtrack. Look for ethereal biscuits and crab hash. And don’t miss the killer bloody mary. 31752 Los Rios St., 949-443-1342. $$

photograph by E M I LY J . D AV I S

SUNDRIED TOMATO This breezy cafe is a great find for light lunch and uncomplicated dinners. Small and large plates for the California palate: sundried tomato soup and memorable sandwiches, such as the honey-cilantro chicken pesto, or lamb burger with Gorgonzola and aioli. 31781 Camino Capistrano, 949-661-1167. Second location (not reviewed) in San Clemente at 821 Via Suerte, 949-388-5757. $$

SANTA ANA [

Orange Coast magazine - November 2021

Articles inside

Paul J. Nelson

Families Forward “Light up the Night” Gala

Callahan & Blaine

Romance of the Mission Gala

Robinson Calcagnie