CUISINE

SIGNATURE DISHES

by CUYLER GIBBONS, MARIO BOUCHER, and DANIEL TOZIER

Great food is great because it tastes that way. at’s the bottom line, but truly great food also provides an impressive visual experience. Unforgettable food looks as good as it tastes. Pasadena, of course, boasts a number of impressive restaurants helmed by talented and innovative chefs, and without exception they each produce food that is uniquely their own.

We talked to a number of these local chefs about those dishes they were particularly fond of or that stood out as especially representative of both creativity and skill. In the following pages they discuss the inspiration, technique, and heart that goes into these signature dishes. 

THE RAYMOND 1886

Octopus with Cacahuate Mole (Peanut Mole) and Lemon Ash EXECUTIVE CHEF—JONATHAN

QUINTANA

For Raymond 1886 Executive Chef Jonathan Quintana, a “signature dish” means a plate that reflects his roots. Something classic and firmly planted in tradition, but a dish that allows Quintana to apply his own special perspective and make it his. Most of us are well familiar with classic mole. Quintana not only grew up with it, but has delved deeply into its history to create a version wholly his own.

“I wanted to create a dish that would be true to my upbringing,” says Quintana. “I started researching the history of making mole and there is always one main ingredient in mole that is specifically focused on, so I chose peanuts because even though they are typically used when making mole, they never shine as a star of the dish…ever since I introduced it on our new summer menu, it has consistently been one of our top sellers. It feels truly amazing to create a dish showcasing my roots, yet add my own personal twist…and our guests love to indulge in it.”

To read how Chef Quintana creates his mole and to learn the technique straight from the chef, visit pasadenamag.com.

“THE SECRET INGREDIENT”

“The hidden gem in this dish is lemon ash,” says Chef Quintana. “I would very much like to thank Chef Ramon Bojorquez from Bar Restaurant for introducing me to lemon ash. It sounds simple, but creating lemon ash is a very complex technique. You have to leave the lemons in the oven overnight on a very low heat to char and dehydrate them. After the lemons are hollow and you are sure there is no liquid left in them, you put them in a blender and pulverize them into dust. It is definitely a game changer!”

THE ARBOUR

Smoked Duck EXECUTIVE CHEF AND OWNER—IAN GRESIK

One of the newest entrants to the Pasadena restaurant scene, The Arbour on Lake Avenue has quickly become a local favorite. Helmed by executive chef and owner Ian Gresik, The Arbour focuses on seasonal ingredients that are locally sourced.

Served under smoked-filled glass, The Arbour’s Smoked Duck truly impresses as one of the most dramatic and delicious dishes found anywhere in town. Chef Gresik describes the dish this way— “Our smoked duck dish has been a popular item since we opened. We source our duck from Liberty Farms, smoke and roast the breast, then confit the legs in duck fat. This type of duck is mild and juicy compared to its larger cousins. It has all the flavor of beef with less of the fat. We serve it with crispy heirloom rice, baby turnips, and a duck sauce made from the duck bones. We serve the duck under a glass cloche and fill the dome with hickory smoke. This item will be back on the menu as soon as we reopen.”

UNION

Rabbit Porchetta EXECUTIVE CHEF–CHRIS KEYSER

In an area like Southern California, where the available culinary raw materials are so bounteous and varied, the concept of one defining “signature dish” often does not apply. With disparate fresh ingredients so easily available, local chefs are able to bring their creativity to the forefront with constantly changing menus that reflect the ingredients’ seasonal availability.

One of Pasadena’s most creative executive chefs, Union’s Chris Keyser, describes his philosophy this way: “Union is a restaurant that focuses mostly on seasonality and ingredients. Our menus are based on what we have at the very moment, so we don’t try to focus on signature dishes. I think it’s important to tell a story of where you are in the world. Creating a sense of place that really tells you about why California is so special. [Rabbit Porchetta is one of our] dishes that we currently have on our menus at the moment that tell you about some of my experiences but [also] really showcase the best of what California has to offer at this time.”

Bone Kettle photography by Max Milla

BONE KETTLE

Braised Oxtail with signature Bone Broth EXECUTIVE CHEF—ERWIN TJAHYADI

Inspired by Chef Erwin Tjahyadi’s childhood in East Java, Bone Kettle’s oxtail recipe is truly homegrown with the broth rich and milky, slow-cooked with beautiful herbs and spices for 36 hours, and made from the finest, collagen-rich parts of organic beef bones. Chef Tjahyadi has this to say about Bone Kettle’s signature dish—”Sharing our broth dish that my grandmother passed down means that her memory lives on and we get an opportunity to tell a story about our heritage. It’s incredibly powerful to learn how much the oxtail broth dish we cook brings so many people together and reminds our customers of home, comfort, and family, even if they may not come from Southeast Asia.”

LÊBERRY BAKERY & DONUT

Cheesecake CO-FOUNDER —RAY LEDFORD

Man cannot live by savory alone. In fact, a world without sweets is really a dull proposition.

Fortunately, Lêberry Bakery & Donut on Colorado in Old Pasadena is turning out a plethora of delicious vegan or glutenfree cakes, cheesecakes, and vegan and gluten-free pies daily.

Says co-founder Ray Ledford of Lêberry’s famous cheesecake, “This one-of-a-kind cheesecake was made by our kitchen using special ingredients to make it creamier than but not as dense as many other cheesecakes. We are proud of the quality of our products.”

PARKWAY GRILL

Whole Ginger Fried Catfish CORPORATE CHEF—MARTIN

SALINAS

Had George Orwell an inkling that 1984 was to be the year that the Smith Brothers’ Parkway Grill would open, he would have been unable to imagine that same year through the dystopian prism of his famous novel. And had he the pleasure of Parkway Grill’s signature Whole Ginger Fried Catfish, he would certainly have been a happier man.

Martin Salinas, corporate chef for the Smith Brothers’ flagship restaurant, describes the dish this way: “I would have to say that our signature catfish entree is still one of our most popular featured items on our menu. The fish are wild farmed, sourced from Texas, and arrive to our restaurant each morning, where they are individually inspected and weighed—usually between three to four pounds. We take the selected fish, cut along the sides, and prep each with slices of fresh ginger. We then dust lightly with flour and into the deep fryer it goes. On the plate, it is served alongside Caraway rice, pickled ginger relish with baby carrots, onions, cucumber, and cilantro usually picked out back from our organic garden. We also use our own house-made Ponzu sauce...let’s just say there’s a reason it’s been on menus since 1984.”