HOG WILD Ganbak prawns
TRENDS
SEAFOOD CRISP Saso’s chef brings coastal cuisine to the Pasadena Playhouse BY C A R O L E D I XO N
Chef Dominique Crisp
While the recipes are steeped in Spanish tradition, you’ll see AsianCali influences represented, from crispy croquettes with wagyu and an Iberico ham sandwich with Tillamook cheese to green matcha Basque cheesecake. Here, Crisp gives an inside look.
> How would you describe your version of “coastal cuisine”?
FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH STUDIOS
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n a century-old, European-style courtyard strewn with twinkling lights, towering palm trees, and an ornate central fountain, Saso has opened at the Pasadena Playhouse. Saso is a Basque word that loosely translates to “the sea” and is a fitting name for coastal, all-day dining with an extensive seafood menu. Basque Country is represented well with traditional pintxos (snacks), crudo, and tortas that can take you straight from lunch to happy hour and dinner with dramatic porrón pours of rare txakolina wines from Spain. If you choose to dine inside, a cheerful, 40-foot, full-wall custom mural by renowned L.A. artist Tim Biskup spans the entire space from bar to back of house and represents land transitioning into the sea—or the kitchen in this case. After growing up on a third-generation farm and in the Lumos Winery in Oregon, chef Dominique Crisp helmed kitchens at popular seafood spots L&E Oyster Bar in Silver Lake and Blue Plate Oysterette in Santa Monica. “I want coastal cuisine from Baja to Alaska to shine by showcasing farmers, fishermen, and butchers we work with,” says Crisp. “We need to reconnect with food as much as we need to reconnect with each other.”
It’s a play on three different coastal regions—the Pacific Northwest, Southern California, and Basque Country. It’s a hybrid of all those elements, a lighthearted, casual dining experience—and also letting these coastal ingredients marry on a hot charcoal grill while cooking at the highest level.
> What do you love most about cooking with seafood?
The connection with the fishermen, the oyster farmers—understanding the meroir—just like we understand the terroir for farming and vineyards.
> What about sustainability? We respect and utilize every part of the animal and fish. The bones are used for stock and the offcuts are used for
elements such as smoked salmon aioli. Even our partner fishermen are dedicated to sustainable farming. Our charcoal is from Prime 6, a 100% sustainable product, and they plant a tree for every case purchased.
> Tell us more about your Basque
Country travels that inspired and informed your role today as a chef.
It’s a combination of enjoying a lighthearted meal yet having a deeply rooted connection to the ingredients. Seeing the chefs master cooking with charcoal and a respect for the land and sea while creating a memorable dining experience. landscape also reminded me of where I grew up in coastal Oregon, a place where giant pine trees meet the wild ocean.
> Why did you want to bring this
type of restaurant to Pasadena diners at this time?
From the moment I saw the restaurant space and courtyard, it felt like a place where we could be part of the community while also building a community. Our vision is to build a space where guests can come together and create memories. After a long year apart, it feels more important now than ever. sasobistro.com
Saso dining room
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