ISSUE 09
MAY - JULY 2013
FOOD FOR THOUGHT Karen’s Talisman
MotorReview
4x4 WITH THE X-FACTOR Nissan X-Trail
VICTOR WANYAMA Will Kenyan soccer star leave Celtic?
EAST AFRICA:
LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL ALL THE SIGNS POINT TO A BIG ECONOMIC UPTURN
ProductReview
Blackberry Z10 ALSO INSIDE THIS ISSUE:
LATEST RELEASES • 540 NEWS • JUBA CITY GUIDE
ASHUT ENGINEERS
Issue 9 - MaY - JuLY
Contents 27
09
© Stafford Ondego
14
30 SPECIaL FEatuRES
REGuLaR FEatuRES
03 IN THIS ISSUE
05 MYWORLD
africa’s last unexplored wilderness
Welcome to the new issue
13 LOOKINSIDE
09 LET THE GOOD TIMES ROLL
Flagship hotel offers 1930s-style opulence
all the signs point to an economic upturn
is published by
lanD & Marine publiCations (kenya) ltD
Suite a5, 1st Floor, ojijo Plaza, 20 Plums Lane off ojijo Road, Parklands, Po Box 2022 Village Market 00621, nairobi tel: +254 (0)20 374 1934 Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com on behalf of
14 LAKE BOGORIA NATIONAL RESERVE
Future looks bright for no 1 cargo gateway
Spectacular lake that inspired a president
22 KISITE MARINE PARK a marine wonderland awaiting discovery
30 VICTOR WANYAMA
Will Kenyan soccer star leave Celtic?
39 CHINUA ACHEBE
turbulent times that produced a literary giant
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Riverside Green Suites, Palm Suite, Riverside drive Po Box 10293-00100, nairobi, Kenya tel: +254 (0)20 445 2391/2/3/4/5 Email info@fly540.com www.fly540.com
19 BUSINESSHub
25 FOODFORTHOUGHT Karen’s talisman Restaurant
27 ProductReview Blackberry Z10
28 LATEST RELEASES
Coming to a screen near you...
33 CITYGUIDE Juba
34 MotorReview uSEFuL InFoRMatIon 36 THE FLY540 NETWORK
nissan X-trail
46 KIDZ CORNER
42 TRAVEL INFORMATION
Essential travel and visa information
the opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. no liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions. ©2013 Land & Marine Publications (Kenya) Ltd
44 FLY540 FLEET 48 FLY540 CONTACTS
ConneCt With Fly540 @fly540aviation www.facebook.com/pages/Fly-540
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1
In thIS ISSuE
in this
issue
GREat LaKE, GREat PoRt, GREat FootBaLLER, GREat ISSuE of 540 – Fly540’s quarterly
in-flight magazine.
and what a momentous three
a long, hard football season is coming to an end in Europe. one of the stand-out stars in recent month has
Below: Food for thought, page 25.
been Kenya’s Victor Wanyama. In this
months it has been. Kenya held
issue we look at the rise and rise of
peaceful general elections and, as a
young Mr Wanyama and try to predict
result, the country has a new presi-
where he will be playing next season.
dent, uhuru Kenyatta.
Fingers crossed that we have guessed
In fact, Lake Bogoria, which we
right, otherwise, this column will start
visit in this issue, is said to be the fi rst
with an apology in the next issue (due
president’s favourite place to camp.
out in the fi rst week of August).
of course, Kenya has much better known lakes – naivasha and nakuru,
en route
for instance – so Lake Bogoria tends to
If you are reading this maga-
be rather overlooked, which is a pity.
zine en route to Juba, then
anyway, I hope that, in our small way,
perhaps you’re staying in
we are making amends.
South Sudan’s capital and won’t
Mr Kenyatta comes to power at a
LATEST RELEASES
venture out too much. as we
propitious moment. In economic terms,
illustrate, this would be a pity because,
East africa is poised for take-off and
perhaps surprisingly, South Sudan has
Kenya, in particular, is expecting to
some of the best game-viewing in africa.
see growth accelerate in the coming
In our regular car review spot, we
months now that the election is out of
consider the merits of the new nissan
the way. this magazine sets the scene
X-trail. the soft-roader is popular in
for the coming boom.
East africa as a cheaper alternative to
the gateway for much of East africa’s growing foreign trade is the sometimes unfairly criticised Port
look out For...
© Steve Anderson Photography
W
elcome to the latest edition
In our “latest releases” section on page 28 you can find up to date information and reviews for the latest film and book releases. One of the films featured in this issue is Oblivion.
toyota’s class-leading RaV 4. Let’s see how it compares. Enjoy your fl ight with Fly540.
of Mombasa. 540 magazine puts the nation’s only major seaport under
Gary Gimson
the spotlight.
Publisher, 540 magazine
CITYGuIdE
Our “City guide” section on page 33 takes a look at Juba. With ideas on where to stay, what to do and where to eat, as well as practical information you could need during a visit.
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3
MyWorld: South Sudan
aFriCa’s last uneXploreD WilDerness I
t’s a sad fact that South Sudan is
of the nation’s total land area. Most of
white-eared kob, mongalla (an
little visited by tourists.
these protected areas were created in
antelope similar to a thomson’s
this unhappy situation is set to
theory, so their boundaries are a little
gazelle) and tiang (which resembles
change as the fledgling state begins to
hazy and have never been formalised.
a topi), rivalling in many ways the
promote its largely undiscovered and often unique wildlife to the wider world. a major step forward was taken in
Serengeti/Mara wildebeest migration.
surVeys
• about 4,000 elephant and viable
Recent surveys by the government
March when, for the first time, South Sudan
in partnership with the Wildlife
populations of other large species
displayed its wares on its own stand at ItB
Conservation Society reveal that these
such as giraffe, buffalo and the
Berlin, the world’s largest travel trade
parks and reserves have a diverse
endemic nile lechwe.
show, held annually in the German capital.
range of species. thankfully, these areas were mostly inaccessible to local people during the civil war and,
strategies with scarce resources to
surprisingly, are still inhabited by
harness this potentially important
large animal populations.
sector for the nation’s economy. South Sudan starts at a huge
South Sudan is home to the world’s largest wetland area, the Sudd, covering
disadvantage, however, in terms of its
30,000 sq km, as well as to one of the
tourism infrastructure. there are few
largest untouched savanna and woodland
roads, and no camps or lodges in its
ecosystems remaining in africa.
national parks, and it will be some time before these can be established.
South Sudan’s wildlife status can be characterised as follows:
Yet the potential is huge. there are six national parks and 13 game reserves covering about 11 per cent
©Frontpage, Shutterstock.com
the Ministry of Wildlife Conservation & tourism is clearly developing
happy FaCes
• one of the world’s largest antelope migrations, comprising 1.2 million
Above: Children selling cooked corn
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5
MyWorld: South sudan • Large carnivore species such as
lion, leopard, cheetah and wild dog.
It’s not all good news, however, as South Sudan’s amazing wildlife heritage is now threatened by an increase in commercial poaching, human encroachment and oil exploration. Some species, including zebra, hartebeest and buffalo, have been badly affected during the civil war and are now at risk of disappearing.
Migration The 10,000 sq km Bandingilo National Park, in a wooded area close to the White Nile, has two claims to fame: it is home to the world’s second-largest animal migration (after the Mara/ Serengeti) and is also one of the least visited national parks in the world. This latter fact is a reflection of its location
The 23,000 sq km Southern National
Yambio town, was originally set up to
and lack of tourist facilities rather than
Park is one of Africa’s largest, but like
its attractiveness as a national park.
many others is rarely visited and little
ened lowland bongo. The reserve is also
known by wildlife enthusiasts.
home to leopard, chimpanzee, baboon,
The Bandingilo migration comprises a different group of animals from the wildebeest and zebra that make up the herds to the south. Bandingilo’s migration is reedbuck, tiang and white-ear kob. The park also contains extensive marshlands and supports large bird populations. Although it is a major wildlife area, somewhat
conserve and protect the near threat-
The tiny 410 sq km Nimule National Park is right on the border with Uganda
giant forest hog, bushbuck and warthog. Kidepo Valley National Park in
‘There are several game reserves across South Sudan with a variety of animal species, including some of great significance’
unbelievably the park lies within a
in the extreme south. Again, the park
Uganda is thought to be that country’s
Total Oil drilling concession.
is rarely visited. It contains elephant,
finest wildlife reserve and one with
hippo, warthog, Ugandan kob, baboon
tremendous potential; but South
National Park lies close to the
and vervet monkey. A one-day permit
Sudan can match this with its own
Ethiopian border, contiguous with that
will cost the visitor a hefty US$70.00
Kidepo Game Reserve. The reserve,
The giant 22,800 sq km Boma
country’s Gambela National Park, and
with its naturally occurring coconut
is home to white-eared kob, tiang and
Central
the mongalla. The park also contains
The 620 sq km Shambe National Park is
buffalo, elephant, leopard, zebra, oryx,
in the central area. It lies west of the road
hartebeest and cheetah.
between Yei and Maridi town bordering
WILDLIFE
the Democratic Republic of Congo’s
The 9,700 sq km Zeraf Game Reserve,
Garamba National Park. The vegetation
within in the Sudd, is thought to
of Shambe National Park supports a huge
contain about half the country’s
population of elephant, buffalo, baboon, a
population of elephant and is also home
variety of antelope and ostrich.
to Nile lechwe, sitatunga (as would be
plantation, has cheetah, wild dog,
In addition to the parks, there are
kudu, buffalo and elephant.
expected in a swamp) and hippo.
several game reserves across South
South Sudan, then, has wildlife
Sudan with a variety of animal species,
aplenty, but almost no tourism. However,
including some of great significance.
if the large number of visitors to South
For instance:
Sudan’s ITB stand is any guide, then
The rain forest reserve of Bangangai, on the Sudan-Congo border, west of
Kenya and Tanzania may soon be looking at a new rival for those tourism dollars.
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7
EaSt aFRICa: BooM TIME
EAST AFRICA:
let the gooD tiMes roll I
s East Africa about to experience
the mother of all economic booms?
It seems so.
success as the rest of the continent; now it is poised to turbo-charge its performance still further as key
at a time of uncertainty and general
factors come together to create almost
gloom elsewhere, especially in Europe, the
laboratory-like conditions for growth.
continent of africa stands out as a beacon of optimism. and with good reason. as a subregion, East africa has
speCtaCular the vital building blocks are in place:
enjoyed the same rip-roaring economic
‘now we have the prospect of East africa’s own ‘simba’ economies as uganda, tanzania and Kenya step on the gas, both literally and metaphorically’
political stability, big new energy fi nds, ongoing inward investment by the Chinese and others, and the completion of spectacular new infrastructural projects. In turn, this is underpinned by a young, willing and increasingly well-educated workforce eager to embrace new technology. Meanwhile,
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9
aid money continues to pour in – often and perversely from those increasingly impoverished countries in Europe which can no longer afford to give it.
comparisons As a result, comparisons are now being made between East Africa and the Far East of 30 years ago. In the past there was much talk of Asian ‘tigers’. Now we have the prospect of East Africa’s own ‘simba’ economies as Uganda, Tanzania and Kenya step on the gas, both literally and metaphorically. All three nations enjoyed strong growth in 2012 and the trio are set to do even better this year. In fact, new president Uhuru Kenyatta has pledged to push Kenya’s annual growth rate to 10 per cent.
prospects In short, the region has never been in better economic shape and its business prospects have never looked more propitious. The only possible cloud on the horizon is the Kenyan government’s public sector debt and a widening current account deficit coupled with an excessively high state wage bill. But, ignoring any possible downside risk and seeing slim pickings elsewhere, foreign investors are almost falling over themselves to get a slice of the East African action. And with even bigger projects coming down
‘The region has never been in better economic shape and its business prospects have never looked more propitious’ the track, one can expect to see more
to the regional headquarters of major corporations. The Kenyan capital still suffers from chronic infrastructure constraints, as this year’s short rains have once again demonstrated. This, too, is changing, however, and Nairobi is finally addressing its transport
The chief beneficiary of this influx
shortcomings by creating new roads and
foreign executives on flights to Nairobi,
of business visitors is Nairobi, where
commuter rail systems, not to mention a
Entebbe and Dar es Salaam.
a new hotel seems to open every other
new airport terminal at Jomo Kenyatta
Clearly, top city centre hotels are the first to feel the impact of these free-
month, with more on the way.
Airport. And, thanks to the Chinese and Japanese, Kenya – more generally – is
spending, expense account executives
epicentre
lining the lobbies and filling the bars
Like or not, Nairobi is the region’s
and coffee shops to make deals with
undisputed commercial epicentre; it
A barometer of Kenya’s growing
the region’s decision-makers.
has the hotels and flights and is home
status is the city’s real estate market.
10
Issue 9
adding a new port at Lamu and a new container terminal in Mombasa.
EAST AFRICA: BOOM TIME economy hotting up
© Lexan / Shutterstock.com
Left: Nodding donkeys are on their way Below: Expect more high rise
And it is oil – or, more strictly speaking, energy – that holds the longterm key to higher living standards elsewhere in East Africa. Uganda, too, will be energy-rich soon. Heritage Oil has discovered oil reserves worth $7 billion at today’s prices. But production is unlikely to start much before 2017.
© Fedor Selivanov / Shutterstock.com
bountiful Property values in the city increased
The waters off Tanzania appear even
again in 2012 as a 10-year boom showed
more bountiful. Tanzania has been
no sign of ending. On some measures,
described as ‘the hottest frontier in
Nairobi has seen the world’s fastest-
the global oil and gas industry’. This is
growing property prices in recent
no exaggeration. Tanzania, along with
years. Other East African capitals have
neighbouring Mozambique, is sitting
also seen strong price growth.
on huge gas reserves. Experts say these reserves are bigger than those
confident
of Qatar, currently the world’s leading
Also, on the horizon, there is oil. The
producer of liquefied natural gas. Of
UK’s Tullow Oil seems fairly confident it
course, these reserves may take years
has found oil in commercial quantities
to be exploited; but even building the
in Turkana. The prospect of petroleum
gas production facilities will involve
revenues will do much to ease concern
the investment of many billions of
elsewhere about government income
dollars in the local economy.
from taxation and the like.
So, let the good times roll.
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11
LOOKINSIDE: Hemingways Nairobi
Hemingways Nairobi
Flagship hotel offers 1930s-style opulence N
airobi has yet another new
hotel; but this one is a little
– might have felt at home immediately.
Hemingways Nairobi has hired
Aimed at both the affluent
Kenya’s first Michelin-starred chef to
business traveller and the well-
design the kitchens and manage the
heeled and discerning leisure visitor,
restaurants, so guests can expect some
Hemingways Nairobi offers a peaceful
really superb cuisine in The Dining
and tranquil setting away from the
Room and The Brasserie. Uniquely, the
hurly-burly of the nearby city.
hotel also provides a butler service.
Thinking twice
and gym and a 15 metre long heated
attractive views of the Ngong Hills
Getting to and from Nairobi is not
outdoor pool.
nearby, Hemingways Nairobi has
without its problems and can make
45 suites and guestrooms and is the
visitors think twice about staying in
adds to the city’s attractiveness as a
latest addition to an eclectic group
Karen; but work on a six-lane highway
destination and such a boutique hotel of
of properties that also embraces
from Adams Arcade to Ngong is due to
this kind is probably long overdue. So
Hemingways in Watamu and Ol Seki in
commence in 2013.
hats off to the Hemingways Collection
different. Two years in the making
and with its opening a tad delayed by the elections, Hemingways Nairobi – the new flagship property of the
Hemingways Collection – welcomed its first lucky guests 20 April.
Set in 10 splendid acres and with
For the energetic, the hotel has a spa
Hemingways Nairobi certainly
the Mara’s Naboisho Conservancy. As might be expected from a Karenbased hotel, this five-star boutique property has a dash of the 1930s about it, with sweeping staircases, hardwood floors in the guestrooms, four-poster beds and commodious trunks for storage. In fact, it’s just the kind of place where members of the colonial safari set – the likes of Denys Finch Hatton, ‘Bunny’ Allen and John Hunter
More information Website: www.hemingways-nairobi.com
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13
LaKE BoGoRIa natIonaL RESERVE
speCtaCular lake that inspireD a presiDent a sinuous pewterblue ribbon of mirrored water, often pink-frosted with a million or so flamingos 14
Issue 9
PrESIdENT’S CAMP
t
he idea of Kenya’s founding
father, Mzee Jomo Kenyatta,
setting off with members of his
cabinet on a camping trip might
strike you as bizarre. And yet, when Kenyatta was weighed down by
affairs of state, this is exactly what
he did. Fig Tree Campsite, the president’s favourite, lies at the farthest end of lake Bogoria; and, while it doesn’t offer much in the way of
facilities, its natural attributes are outstanding.
It embraces a grove of mighty fi g trees for shade, a crystal-clear stream for water, and a small bay with spectacular views all along the lake. It was here, according to legend, that the great man would sit in silent contemplation, or in calm discussion with his entourage.
DraMatiC Lake Bogoria is the most dramatic, yet least visited, of the Great Rift Valley lakes – a sinuous pewter-blue ribbon of mirrored water, often pink-frosted with a million or so flamingos. On one side of the lake is a gentle shoreline, while on the other side loom the inkygrey battlements of the forbidding Siracha Escarpment.
unruFFleD While the waters of Lake Bogoria are calm and unruffled, its surroundings are anything but. the reserve contains over 200 hot springs, bubbling from beneath the earth’s crust and reaching a temperature of 104°C. Roaring geysers hurl jets of scalding water several metres into the air; the boiling rock pools have surreal brown, yellow and orange rock sculptures rising out of them; clouds of steam billow across the lake like genies escaping from a bottle; and there are people boiling eggs and cooking goat’s meat in the simmering pools. It’s a bizarre scene, but one you won’t forget in a hurry.
birD liFe Left: Pretty flamingos
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15
PRESIDENT’S CAMP Wildlife
slender, its pale-grey coat slashed
Around the hot springs, vervet
by eight white stripes down either
monkeys and olive baboons can be
flank, the kudu has a magnificent pair
seen. Along the roads, visitors may
of spiralled horns. The kudu is shy,
spot the occasional lumbering leopard
however, and hard to spot.
tortoise, while along the shoreline they
When the heat of the day has eased,
can see grazing zebra, impala, gazelle,
a visit to the acacia groves of the
buffalo and the odd warthog family on
Sogomo Causeway, next to the Acacia
the charge. As for predator, there will
Campsite, is well worthwhile.
be mongoose in plenty; perhaps the occasional loping spotted hyena; and, if
Campsite
you are very lucky, a leopard stretched
Fig Tree Campsite, 3 km from Emsos
out along the branch of a fig tree.
Gate and 15 km from Loburu Springs,
pink paradise
offers an ideal opportunity for some presidential contemplation. Campers are
Coloured a thick soupy blue on account
also welcome in the lush grounds of Lake
of spirulina algae, the harshly alkaline
Bogoria Spa Resort, where a fully serv-
Lake Bogoria is heaven for flamingos.
iced campsite is available for a small fee.
They flock here in their tens of thousands to promenade along the shoreline in drifts of carmine and sugar-pink. They murmur in the shallows, scything
MORE INFORMATION www.lakebogoria-hotel.com
their beaks to and fro to sift the algae from the water; and they arrive and depart without apparent reason.
antelope king Bogoria is one of the few places in Kenya where visitors can glimpse the so-called ‘king of the antelopes’, the rare greater kudu. Large and
WILDLIFE Top Right: Kudu Right: Mother and baby vervets
Fact file • Altitude: 1,000 to 1,600 metres above sea level. • Area: 107 sq km of which 34 sq km is water. The lake is 16 km long, 1.4 km wide and between 5.0 and 10.0 metres in depth. • Location: Rift Valley Province. • Distance from Nairobi: 266 km. • Status: National Reserve and Ramsar site. • Birds: Over 220 species including flamingo, ostrich, plover, heron, ibis, hammerkop, roller and greycrowned crane. For more information visit: www.lakebogoriareserve.com
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17
BUSINESSHub: Port of Mombasa
FUTURE LOOKS BRIGHT FOR NO 1 CARGO GATEWAY B
elieve it or not, the Port of
Mombasa is one of Kenya’s great
success stories.
Despite the usual moans and groans from self-interested importers,
‘The port is also the principal
maritime gateway for Uganda, Rwanda and South Sudan’
shipping agents and the like, the port’s performance in recent years
Uganda, Rwanda and South Sudan, as
say that shippers in many east African
has been nothing short of remarkable,
well as handling significant amounts
states have little alternative but to use
with cargo throughput growing by an
of cargo for other East African states.
Mombasa. And clearly, there is some
average of about 10 per cent per year.
In fact, some 30 per cent of all freight
truth in this view.
And it doesn’t stop there; the pressure to handle more and more containers and other cargo is
moving through Mombasa is to or from destinations other than Kenya The port’s detractors are bound to
The construction of a new port in Lamu may change the logistical dynamic, as might various ambitious
unrelenting. Mombasa has to raise its game still further, running ever faster just to stand still. In 2012 the port handled 22 million tonnes of cargo – nearly double what was being handled less than 10 years ago.
BURDEN The Kenya Ports Authority (KPA) has a huge national and regional burden to bear. Not only does Mombasa handle every last tonne of Kenya’s seaborne commerce; the port is also the principal maritime gateway for
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19
online Whatever your platform
NEVER MISS ANOTHER ISSUE
www.fly540.com/inflight-magazines
BUSINESSHub: Port of Mombasa plans for new rail lines from the
needed to replace the
hinterland to the Indian Ocean. These
ageing narrow-gauge
developments should provide options
line and the Mombasa-
for neighbouring states, but Kenya-bound
Nairobi highway needs
cargo will still be routed via Mombasa.
further work to bring
The Port of Mombasa will be in a better position to meet the challenges ahead when Kilindini
it up to international standards. A deal has already
2, a spanking new KES 2.8 billion
been signed with the
container terminal, opens in 2015.
Chinese for a new
The new terminal will have an annual
rail link between
throughput capacity of 1.2 million teu
Mombasa and Nairobi
(20 ft equivalent units). To put things
at an estimated
in perspective, Mombasa handled just
cost of US$ 2.6 billion and with a
over 900,000 teu in 2012.
possible extension to Uganda. This
rail lines to the coast. But these project
would dramatically alter the road-
are some way off and still await fi nal
rail dynamic in terms of the cost
approval.
TRANSFER Discussions are also in hand over the
and efficiency of moving containers
transfer of three container-handling
between the coast and Nairobi.
berths to an independent company
For the time-being, Mombasa, has the field to itself.
Rail is where Mombasa may, indeed,
– a move that is being resisted by
face stiffer competition as discussions
waterfront unions.
between Uganda and Tanzania
But even with additional container
PORT DUTIES
about building a new 668 km link
handling capacity, Mombasa port is
from Musoma (on the shores of Lake
still likely to be constrained by poor
Victoria) to Arusha to connect with
Above: Trucks queue to leave the container terminal
inland connections. A new railway is
Tanga. Ethiopia, too, is looking at new
Below: Rail cars
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21
A MARINE WONDERLAND AWAITING DISCOVERY By Pamela J. Karg
‘All journeys have secret destinations of which the traveller is unaware’ Martin Buber
O
annually to Kenya, most think
of safaris, local beer, woodcrafts
and beach resorts. But it’s time to
discover a ‘secret’ destination that includes coral reefs, traditional
dhows, fi shing, snorkelling and a unique opportunity to watch the
coconut crabs, which can climb trees. Welcome to Kisite Mpunguti Marine
Issue 9
crabs, the largest arthropods on land. Yet only about 50,000 tourists – five
f the 1 million tourists flocking
22
Kisite is home to 70 resident wild dolphins and a large cast of coconut
per cent of foreign visitors to Kenya – explore the 39 km marine park and reserve each year.
OPERATIONS Kenyan Wildlife Service (KWS) is responsible for park operations, protecting against poachers and assisting with patrols of the coastal waters bordering Tanzania. “Whenever I have the chance, I’m
Park, the largest of Kenya’s four marine
always out here,” says assistant park
parks, located on the south coast about
manager Mark Kinyua as the KWS
an hour’s drive from Mombasa.
boat heads out to one of four small
© Pamela J. Karg
© Pamela J. Karg
Kisite Marine Park
WHEN YOU VISIT KISITE •
If possible, contact park staff a day before you explore. Working with the Kisite Boat Association, staff link you with dhow operators who can arrange birdwatching, picnicking, snorkelling, fishing or scuba diving.
•
When you arrive, go to the end of the Shimoni’s main road and turn right. Don’t worry about talking to the boat vendors there. You’ll meet yours after buying your park entrance ticket. Dhow fees are paid separately when you board.
eye-popping yet peaceful and mysteri-
Stop by the Education Centre. Kisite hosts Kenyan and international researchers who share their findings in Centre displays.
After a session of underwater explora-
•
•
© Pamela J. Karg
•
islands surrounded by coral reef found within the park’s sea boundaries. “There’s always something new to amaze you – on the islands, in the air or under the water. That’s what makes this such a great park.”
•
ous landscape for visitors as they float in the blue and green waters.
SESSION tion, the dhow captains will inch their boats into calm bays with coral bridges and white beaches embedded with every
Don’t forget extra water, sunscreen, a camera and some biscuits to nibble during your trip.
colour of shell and rock. Visitors should note, however, that not even the small-
Give yourself at lease five hours. Weather, tides (which vary by up to 2.5 metres) and other passengers’ wishes all come into consideration once you set sail. Some operators will stop on Wasini Island so you can feast on freshly caught seafood. For more information, go to: www.kws.org/parks/parks_reserves/ KMNP.html
considered to be part of this national treasure. A couple of the islands are covered in grass and herbs, while two others have dense coastal equatorial forest. It’s in the forest that visitors will find the coconut crab, related to the hermit crab, lives, weighing up to 4 kg and measuring as much as 1 metre
‘Kisite is home to 70 resident wild dolphins and a large cast of coconut crabs, the largest arthropods on land’ Visitors to Kisite, whether they are
from leg to leg. Trails enable visitors to
fi rst-time snorkellers (like this writer)
explore the flora and fauna. Or one may
or seasoned scuba divers, will fi nd an
catch a glimpse, over a picnic lunch,
abundance of life, including trigger
of Kisite’s diving roseate terns, which
fish, angelfish, butterfly fish, groupers,
breed in coastal colonies and often nest
parrotfish, pufferfish, damselfish, snap-
in a hollow or under dense vegetation.
pers and green sea turtles. Some of the © Pamela J. Karg
est pebble can be removed. They are all
For the heartier traveller, KWS
dolphins have made Kisite their perma-
issues overnight camping permits
nent home, while humpback whales and
on the islands. Visitors can also hire
whale sharks are seasonal visitors. In
two-person KWS tents to explore the
addition, the brilliantly coloured coral
hidden night-time treasures of Kenya’s
and swaying sea grass beds create an
marine park.
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23
FOODFOR THOUGHT
GREAT AMBIENCE AND SUPERB CUISINE © Steve Anderson Photography
By Joan Wandegi
THE TALISMAN RESTAURANT we dine at the newly refur-
bished Talisman Restaurant, in the
striking tapestries fits in well with the various art pieces, generating a vibe that makes you want to spend time
leafy Karen suburb of Nairobi, I must
experiencing the moment.
me that restaurants are prone to the
ANXIOUS
admit I was sceptical. It seems to
syndrome of fashionable restoration,
where the ambience fails to be reflected in the cuisine or service offered. I for one love to experiment with
I was anxious to tuck into some good food and the menu defi nitely whetted my appetite. The restaurant offers a delicious assortment of starters
food, and discovering what is great
and appetisers. The choice includes
about a restaurant is like unwrapping
Zanzibari coconut seafood soup, double
a delectable gift. As I walked into this
crunchy California
restaurant, my senses came alive. The
rolls and potted salmon
magical synchronicity between decor
served with fresh rolls.
and attention to detail was delightful.
I chose twice-cooked
What the Talisman team have done
pork belly that was
© Steve Anderson Photography
W
hen a friend of mine suggested
‘The delicate balance of spice against the moist fish created a party in my mouth that danced to the music playing in the background’
with the place is simply ideal. The
done to perfection.
outdoor garden has been brought to
Tender pieces of pork
life with majestic fi g trees and exotic
topped with a honey
plants, a haven for birds. Inside,
soy glaze and served
gorgeous carved wooden pillars give
with charred vegetables leave the taste
fi sh created a party in my mouth that
depth to the restaurant’s open spaces,
buds craving more.
danced to the music playing in the
which are made cosy with fi replaces. The marriage of warm colours and
For my main course I went with the five-spice yellow fi n tuna. The fi sh was
background. You can expect to pay between KES
as fresh as if it had been plucked out
3,500 and KES 4,000 for a full meal
of the sea that evening. The delicate
and afterwards you can retreat to the
balance of spice against the moist
bar for a drink. Now here is where the
© Steve Anderson Photography
party really begins. I was especially
LOOKS GOOD
lucky on the night as the restaurant
Left: Chop sticks if you want
the time to chat about his work. Appar-
Above Right: Crème Brûlée For further information visit: www.thetalismanrestaurant.com/main/
was hosting a local artist who made ently this is quite the norm at Talisman. So, if you seriously want a good night out, especially with friends, try out the Talisman.
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25
ProductReview
Blackberry Z10
FULLY TOUCH-SCREEN SMARTPHONE WILL KEEP FANS HAPPY T
he long-awaited BlackBerry
Z10 – the fi rst fully touch-screen
smartphone from BlackBerry – has fi nally arrived after a somewhat rocky inception.
Personalisation seems to be low on the agenda for this device, which is available only in white or black; but
keyboard. For diehard BlackBerry
all updates all the
fans it may be difficult to relinquish
time with no fi lter
the much-loved keyboard; however,
option, leaving those
the touch keyboard is something the
with active online
BlackBerry Z10 has executed well and
lives bombarded
may be enough to win over even the
by yet another
most enthusiastic of keyboard fans.
overwhelming set
The predictive element is a stroke
of constant notifications.
the design is sleek and pleasing, if
of inspiration. It learns the most
This would be a great idea if there were
undeniably influenced by the iPhone 5.
frequently used words as well as the
more control; or, equally, for those who
repetitive mistakes of the user to
are not very active online.
The Z10 has a larger screen than the iPhone 5 but is still comfortable to
create a very user-friendly functional-
hold in one hand and is smaller than
ity much better than the competition.
FEATURE
the slightly unwieldy 4.7 inch screen
For those unable or unwilling to give
Another major feature of the
of the HTC One, although it weighs a
up the BlackBerry keyboard, there is a
BlackBerry Z10 is the BBM Video with
full 24 g more than the iPhone 5 and
new BlackBerry Q10 that has retained
Screen Share. This allows BBM chat
is one gram heavier than the HTC One.
the keyboard feature and is released
to be switched to a video conversation
However, the plastic soft-touch back
in April.
and the screen share function makes
cover makes the BlackBerry Z10 feel
it possible to share photos, look at
sturdy in the hand and it is a thing of
KEYBOARD
beauty, if not wholly original.
Aside from its lack of keyboard,
In addition, the camera has a time-
which may be a real sticking point
shift mode that takes a few seconds of
for some BlackBerry purists,
photo and then allows the user to scroll
the next noticeable change is its
through and select the exact image
The fi rst major feature of this redesigned phone is that there is no
interface, which has been completely redesigned with the addition of the BlackBerry Hub. This is designed to create
documents and other visuals via BBM.
‘The predictive element is a stroke of inspiration’
smooth navigation around the device, allowing a flow between
The BlackBerry Z10 has a user-
open and close them, as with most
Stylish and practical accessories are available for the BlackBerry Z10 like the BlackBerry Mini Stereo Speaker. Perfect for travel the clip on design allows attachment to a bag strap or it can be simply placed on a table. Using the Bluetooth facility the smartphone the speaker is able to play music wirelessly or can be used for conference calling. It is compatible with BlackBerry 10 devices.
on automatically and is sometimes easy to forget.
applications instead of having to
SOUND DESIGN
they want – although this is not turned
other operating systems. With the
friendly interface that is pleasing if
Hub, a swipe across the screen to the
not ground-breaking and, at similar
right reveals all inboxes, from email to
prices to its competitors, the choice of
social networking sites, while swiping
the BlackBerry Z10 is going to be one
downwards can reveal calendars and
of taste rather than economy. A good
appointments etc.
little gadget, the phone is probably not trail-blazing enough to persuade
The Hub is a good idea, because instant access to accounts and updates
a dyed-in-the-wool iPhone or HTC
all in one spot is time-saving and desir-
user to switch, but will be enough
able. However, in practicality it can
to keep BlackBerry fans happy and
be a little overwhelming, as it gives
BlackBerry out of trouble.
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27
LATEST RELEASES
BOOKWORM ONLY THE DEAD
A QUIET KIND OF COURAGE
THIRTY SECOND WORLD
By Hamilton Wende
By Anthony Schneider
By Emma van der Vliet
The Claws of God are an army of child soldiers existing deep within the Ugandan Jungle led by the villainous General Faustin. The brainwashed children believe that the man controlling them, Papa Mephisto, has the power of the lion. Psychologist Tania Richter is trying to protect these children and to do so she enlists the help of Sebastian Burke who has knowledge of the history of lion mythology. Sebastian and Tania become entangled in a conflict that threatens a nuclear attack and they must use the history of lions and humans to save the children and the world.
28
Issue 9
Anthony Schneider’s latest novel explores the themes of home, exile and the ripple effect of one man’s actions on the generations to follow. This story spans space and time from South Africa to New York both past and present with narratives that intertwine to expose the history and consequences of the actions of Henry Wegland. Currently living in New York, Henry encourages his grandson Saul to travel to South Africa to make a documentary about South African liberation. When Saul is kidnapped he unpicks the secrets Henry thought long buried with his ANC activist past.
Thirty Second World tells the story of two women Alison and Beth. Alison seems to have it all, a glamorous job in the South African film industry and two children who she ably cares for. However, the text messages she regularly sends to her friend Evie tell a different story. Beth, new to the advertising industry is watching her home life unravel as she is tempted by the advances of a colleague. Both women are forced to face their lives when an accident during a film shoot in the middle of the South African bush throws them together revealing dark secrets.
LATESTRELEASES
BLOCKBUSTERS THE CROODS
Starring: Emma Stone, Ryan Reynolds, Nicolas Cage Director: Kirk De Micco & Chris Sanders Genre: Family, adventure, animation When their cave is destroyed The Croods must journey across a fantastical landscape. With their home in ruins and a perilous adventure ahead, The Croods are truly the first modern family who will discover seismic shifts that will change their lives forever.
THE HEAT
Starring: Sandra Bullock, Melissa McCarthy, Marlon Wayans Director: Paul Feig Genre: Comedy, action The buddy movie is back. From the director of Bridesmaids a new comedy starring Sandra Bullock and Melissa McCarthy finds an uptight and meticulous FBI agent teamed up with a foul mouthed, short-tempered Boston cop. They are thrown together to track down a vicious drug lord. The mismatched officers have never had a friend or a partner before and must learn to get along or maybe even befriend each other.
OBLIVION
Starring: Tom Cruise, Morgan Freeman, Olga Kurylenko Director: Joseph Kosinski Genre: Sci-fi, action, adventure It is the future and after decades of war with the Scavs Earth is unrecognisable. Oblivion is the story of Jack Harper one of the repairmen assigned to look after the drones which are extracting the remaining resources from the Earth. When Jack discovers a crashed spacecraft and rescues a beautiful stranger a chain of events unravel which place the fate of humankind firmly in his hands.
CROSSBONES By Nuruddin Farah One of the most highly acclaimed international authors Nuruddin Farah’s has a new instalment to the Past Imperfect trilogy of novels that started with Links, continued with Knots and is completed with this new offering of Crossbones. Two brothers return to Somalia after many years of absence. Malik is a freelance journalist determined to report the dysfunction of the government and his older brother Ahl is travelling for more personal reasons, to locate his stepson Taxliil who has made his way to Somalia under the influence of jihadist imam to train as a suicide bomber. They are both in a search for knowledge that will lead to a race against time to rescue Taxliil, deposit Malik’s stories before the violence against journalists reaches their door and leave the region before war breaks out.
IRON MAN 3
Starring: Robert Downey Jr, Guy Pearce, Gwyneth Paltrow Director: Shane Black Genre: Action, sci-fi In the latest instalment of the Iron Man franchise Tony Stark will be tested to the limits when a terrorist tears his world apart. Stark must embark on a quest to find those responsible and use his instincts to protect those he loves.
THIS IS 40
Starring: Paul Rudd, Leslie Mann, Jason Segel Director: Judd Apatow Genre: Comedy This is 40 takes a look at how Pete and Debbie, two of the characters first seen in Apatow’s Knocked Up, are faring a few years after the first film at a time when they are both turning 40. Debt, unhappiness and rebellious children have led to a turning point and a mid-life crisis for the couple. How will they learn to love growing older in this heart-warming comedy about family, love and marriage?
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MA A Y N A W R O T C I V : E L PROFI
WILL KENYAN SOCCER STAR JOIN THE GUNNERS?
Š Stafford Ondego
Is it now time for the Harambee Stars footballer Victor Wanyama to wave goodbye to Glasgow and Celtic and head south to London and the English Premier League?
30
Issue 9
PROFILER: VICTOR WANYAMA
W
ell, if the rumours circulating in the UK are to be believed,
then Arsenal manager Arsène
Wenger may wipe the cobwebs off his little-used chequebook and make the super-talented Wanyama his big offseason signing.
How true these rumours are is anyone’s guess, but they are persistent. A while back there was even talk of the holding midfielder departing Celtic Park in the January transfer window. At that moment, Celtic seemed reluctant to let Wanyama go – especially as the club was still, and unusually, in the last 16 of the Champions League. Since then Italian giants Juventus have unceremoniously © Stafford Ondego
dumped the Hoops out of the competition, thrashing the Glasgow
‘Wanyama has maintained his gritty
team 5-0 across a two-leg tie.
box-to-box displays in the Scottish Premier League’
GRITTY Despite the Champions League exit, however, Wanyama has maintained his gritty box-to-box displays in what is
until the second half of the season. He
they were getting a sell-on fee for their
generally a second-rate Scottish Premier
will also face much more competition
former prodigy. Wanyama will also
League (SPL). And Arsenal have kept a
for places with a central Arsenal
be looking to match the kind of salary
close watch on their number one target.
midfield comprising Arteta, Wilshire,
enjoyed by his brother McDonald
Ramsey and Diaby.
Mariga at Italian Serie A side Parma.
With the absence of arch-rivals
Wanyama’s age will be a plus point
Rangers, Celtic have dominated this
A transfer fee somewhere north of
season’s SPL and some of the Bhoys’
GBP 10 million (KES 130 million) has
for Arsenal as Wenger looks to adapt
games have to be considered less than
been mentioned, of which Wanyama
the young Kenyan to the Gunners’
evenly matched. Wanyama certainly
should get a cut of 10 per cent. If
quick-passing style.
faces this situation at Arsenal, where
he moves to the Emirates Stadium,
the London team under performed
and despite Wenger’s parsimonious
FORWARD
reputation, Wanyama is likely to see a
Arsenal has been accused of being good
hefty rise in his wages. A sign that he
going forward but not when defending;
may be on the move is that Wanyama’s
and too lightweight in midfield, with
agent has already turned down an
too many ballplayers and not enough
improved contract at Celtic.
ball winners. Big, combative and
© Stafford Ondego
Wanyama’s current deal expires
versatile, Wanyama – who can also put
in 2015. So Celtic have the option to
the ball in the net and can even play
sell now and get good money for a
in the back four – would certainly fit
player who cost just GBP 0.9 million
the bill and solve some of the Gunners’
when signed in 2011 from Antwerp’s
apparent deficiencies of late in this
Beerschot AC, or see their star
particular area.
midfielder head out of the door on a
So let’s see if Arsenal do make the
‘free’ when his contract ends.
big money offer or whether there is
Wanyama can probably expect to
another Premier League team poised
receive more than GBP 50,000 a week
to make Victor ‘Mugabe’ Wanyama the
KENYA'S BEST?
at Arsenal – not bad for a 21-year-old
fi rst Kenyan to play in the top fl ight of
who only a few years ago was turning
English football. I’m sure that football-
Top right: Box-to-box ball winner Above: Playing for Harambee Stars
out for Nairobi City Stars. How the
mad Kenyans just can’t wait for this
Kawangware-based club must wish
to happen.
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31
CITYGUIDE
JUBA,
SOUTH SUDAN Juba
South Sudan
A
s the capital of the world’s
newest nation, Juba still lacks
Lodwar
UGANDA
certainly anything that an expatriate might wish to consume – are imported
the sophistication enjoyed by other
by truck.
This is understandable when an
WHERE TO STAY
town is transformed by geopolitics.
Acacia Village
K
similar destinations in the region. otherwise unremarkable regional For the time being, and for the foreseeable future, most foreign visi-
tors to Juba are either on business or associated in some way with expense account-funded official government and diplomatic activity, a non-governmental organisation (NGO) or an aid agency. For this reason, hotel accommodation is often quite expensive as well as being limited and of varying quality. It is not
Worth a visit...
Clean and well presented in pleasant, leafy gardens. Pool. www.acaciavillage.com
Afex
Bungalows and tents with DSTV. http://www.afexgroup.com/camp_juba.php
Juba Grande Hotel
Near airport and of a reasonable standard
standards Service in both hotels and restaurants is on the slow side, but standards are improving gradually. International cuisine is available – in particular Ethiopian and Eritrean cooking – while other eating places offer Kenyan and Ugandan menus. In the evening, there are plenty of bars and nightclubs from which to choose. Again, these vary in quality. As a general rule, the cost of
N
As a Johnny-come-lately capital, Juba is not exactly blessed with interesting sights, fine buildings, café-ringed piazzas and the like, but no visit would be complete without seeing the River Nile and the Nile Bridge. It’s best to look out of town. One or two game parks and reserves are within a reasonably easy drive and there is some truly amazing wildlife to view (see separate story this issue).
Bangingilo National Park is fairly close; but, realistically, it can only be a day visit owing to the lack of overnight facilities.
Located on the banks of the Nile. http://www.jubabridgehotel.com/
The Roots Project
PLACES TO EAT & DRINK Da Vinci’s Restaurant
Expensive, but has pleasant atmosphere and delightful views over the Nile.
A local NGO is working with women and exhibits their handiwork, such as beads, crafts, pipes made of bullet casings, belts, vases, purses and rather splendid sandals. The Project is located near the basketball stadium in Nimra Talata. Juba Game Reserve: This 20 sq km park, just outside the capital, is home to some interesting birdlife, including Heuglin’s francolin and the Arabian bustard.
Ebony Restaurant
Serves mostly Indian cuisine.
Spice and Herbs
Tel: +211 97725 6969 Expensive, but has pleasant atmosphere and delightful views over the Nile.
Notos Lounge Bar & Grill
Outdoor seating area with a tandoor. Popular with expatriates and not cheap.
Le Bistro
living is much higher in Juba than in
Famed for its soups and Italian coffee. No alcohol, though. Logali House, Hai Amarat
surrounding capitals because nearly
Fresh Freddies
all goods – even basic foodstuffs, and
Kisumu
TANZANIA
Juba Bridge Hotel
unheard-of for guests to end up sleeping in a converted shipping container.
Eldoret
Arguably the best stocked bar in Juba.
Africa’s low cost airline: www.fly540.com
33
Dar es
THE X-FACTOR By Karl Peskett
W
hat’s the defi nition of cute? Ugly, but interesting.
By that rendition, surely the Nissan
X-Trail qualifies as 'cute'. Sure, it’s not the prettiest vehicle on earth, but its qualities go far beyond shapely sheet metal. As Nissan’s small SUV, it has a lot to live up to, especially with the Pathfinder and sixth-generation Patrol stamping their
SPACE vEHICLE The X-Trail has useful drawers under the boot floor
34
Issue 9
mark on the off-road scene. While the styling may leave a bit to be desired, that boxy shape really does liberate plenty of space. From the colossal 603-litre boot (479 litres with the underfloor drawers) to the generous fi rst and second rows, it’s perfect
MotorReview: Nissan X-Trail
DOWNHILL RACER Whatever your sport, the X-Trail can hold all the kit you'll need
road? Excellent, actually. With oilysmooth steering, a brilliant ride and, in diesel form, an accomplished auto, it’s a pleasure to be in the driver’s seat. It’s a good thing, then, that the seats are well padded and, when optioned in leather, easy to clean and maintain. Plenty of adjustment means there’s an ideal driving position for just about everyone.
QUaLity At this price level, the quality is good, too. The dashtop plastics all look and feel premium, it’s screwed together so that there are no shimmies or rattles, and the cupholders placed in each corner of the dash are a great use of available space. Buyers aren’t stifled for choice, either; there are petrol or diesel, manual or automatic, two-wheel drive or all-wheel drive. Our pick? Go for the AWD diesel; it’s cheaper on fuel and has a much better gearbox than the petrol models. for a small family. But don’t think of it as just another jacked-up wagon. Oh no, it’s much more than that.
cLearance With 212 mm of ground clearance, it will negotiate most rocky trails without
‘It truly shines in deep, boggy sand where the All-Mode 4x4 system works its magic, supplying power fore and aft to keep you churning through’
grinding, but it truly shines in deep, boggy sand, where the All-Mode 4x4
As an accomplished all-rounder,
system works its magic, supplying
the X-Trail is fabulous. It really does
power fore and aft to keep you churning
tackle the rough stuff, yet handles
through. Let the tyres down a bit, switch
blacktop with aplomb. It’s also
stability control off, keep your momen-
extremely practical and versatile.
tum going and it’s near-unstoppable.
Of the current crop of soft-roaders,
But what is the X-Trail like where it will spend most of its time – on the
the X-Trail is defi nitely worth a closer look.
AfricA’s low cost Airline: www.fly540.com
35
THE FLY540
OW
COST AIR L
E IN
AFRICAS L
NETWORK AT: E N m NLI o O c . K 0 BOO ly54
A FR
36
Issue 9
w.f w w
ICA
NETWORK
SOUTH SUDAN Juba
Lodwar
UGANDA KENYA Eldoret Kisumu
Nairobi
Lamu Malindi
Mombasa
TANZANIA Zanzibar
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37
CHINUA ACHEBE
T
he word ‘legend’ is overused
when describing public figures;
but in the case of Chinua Achebe it
has never been more apt. Considered one of the most influential African writers of his generation, this
groundbreaking novelist, poet and
essayist was as controversial as he was talented.
Achebe was born in Ogidi, Nigeria, in 1930, the son of a missionary school teacher. Although his parents were devoutly evangelical, they made a great effort to raise Achebe with traditional Igbo values. This clash of
Turbulent times that produced a
© Stafford Ondego
Literary giant cultures was the result of a life lived
where he excelled, graduating at 18.
in colonial Nigeria and these experi-
He studied medicine at the University
ences shaped Achebe’s writing. In fact,
College at Ibadan but then switched to
Achebe did not learn English until he
Liberal Arts and began to write for one
was eight years old and he was exposed
of the university’s publications. After
equally to Igbo and English stories and
graduating in 1953 he worked for the
language.
Nigerian Broadcasting Corporation,
At the age of 14, Achebe attended the Government College in Umuahia,
moving to Lagos, where he met his
TRuE TALENT
wife, Christie Okoli. They married in 1961 and had four children. Shortly
‘Although his parents were devoutly evangelical, they made a great effort to raise Achebe with traditional Igbo values’
after his time in Lagos, Achebe went to England to work for the British Broadcasting Corporation.
Professor Chinua Achebe produced many great works during his writing career, earning worldwide acclaim and bringing a truly African voice to the international arena.
tHings faLL aPart
Prize. The book looks at the effects of
In 1958, a few years before the
British colonialism on the Igbo society
outbreak of the Nigerian Civil War,
of the late 19th century. The act of
Achebe’s fi rst and most famous novel,
writing in post-colonial Nigeria played
‘Things Fall Apart’, was published and
an important role in redefi ning the
won the Margaret Wong Memorial
nation and Chinua Achebe’s voice was
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39
Chinua Achebe instrumental in this. He achieved iconic status around the world through his work, helping to change international views of Africa and African writing. However, Achebe was criticised in his home country for writing in English. Many felt he should write in Igbo to reclaim the mother tongue, but Achebe used the language of the oppressor to express the consequences of oppression. In addition to this domestic criticism, many Western academics thought he idealised pre-colonial Africa. Today, his work remains as criticised as it is revered; the true mark of great literature.
controversy With the outbreak of civil war in Nigeria, Achebe fled to Europe and then the USA, where he spent much of his illustrious academic career at Brown University in Providence,
as the result of a lecture in 1975 in
Rhode Island.
which he claimed that Joseph Conrad’s
Controversy often followed Achebe and he achieved academic infamy
‘Heart of Darkness’ was racist – an opinion widely accepted today. His
‘Controversy often followed Achebe and he achieved academic infamy as the result of a lecture in 1975 in which he claimed that Joseph Conrad’s ‘Heart of Darkness’ was racist’
brown university Professor Achebe spent much of his sparkling academic career in the United States teaching African studies at Brown University, Providence, Rhode Island.
the controversy that often surrounded him, his writing won critical acclaim throughout the world, leading to the inclusion of many of his books on university reading lists and winning
theory caused shockwaves through the
accolades and awards including the
academic establishment of the 1970s.
2007 Man Booker International Prize
Achebe went on to produce many
for his distinguished prose.
other works including ‘Arrow of God’ and ‘A Man of the People’ and, despite
voice of a generation Achebe used a wheelchair after a car accident in 1990 led to partial paralysis. Achebe never returned to Nigeria after this incident. Professor Chinua Achebe died aged 83 on 21 March this year. The authentic voice of a generation and an inspiration to authors around the world, Achebe was a great, influential and controversial talent who lived through tough times and still thought
Literary debut Set in the rural Nigeria of the 19th century, Achebe's debut novel 'Things Fall Apart' has become a staple of university reading lists.
that ‘suffering should be creative, should give birth to something good and lovely’* ’ *Source – ‘A Man of the People'
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41
FLY540 VISA
M FOR ATION N I
TRAVEL INFORMATION VISA INFORMATION
M
ost nationals require visas
KENYAN VISAS
from the five East African states
Visas are required for most nationals and cost US$50. A visa can be obtained on entry, however we recommended one be obtained before arrival to avoid airport lengthy queues. Visa Application Forms are available online.
Common Market of East and South-
A visa is required by all visitors travelling to Kenya with the exception of those holding a re-entry pass to Kenya and citizens of Ethiopia, San Marino, Turkey and Uruguay.
to enter East Africa. Citizens
require no visas while those from the ern Africa (COMESA) member states have relaxed entry requirements into East Africa.
However, East African member states have their own visa requirements for various nationals.
Note that the reciprocal visa abolition agreements with Germany, Italy, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Spain, and Republic of Ireland no longer apply and nationals of these countries now require a visa. Kenya Visa Requirements
• • • • •
Valid passport with sufficient number of unused pages for endorsements abroad. Passport must be signed and valid for at least six months. Visa application form duly completed and signed by the applicant. Two recent passport size photographs attached to the application form. Valid round trip ticket or a letter from your travel agent certifying that the applicant holds prepaid arrangements. A self-addressed stamped envelope for express mail, courier, registered mail, etc., if the visa is urgently required. Metered stamps are not acceptable.
• Home and work telephone numbers.
Please fill out the form correctly and enclose the photographs and payment to avoid delay and disappointment. Standard Visa fees payable by cash to the Embassy of Kenya. Visa fees charges:
• Multiple entry: US$100 • Single entry: US$50 • Transit Visa: US$20 1. Please note that all children below 16 years are not charged visa fees 2. The reduced visa fees were effected on 1 march 2009, as directive from ministry of tourism on attracting more tourists in to the country. 3. Passengers can pay in US dollars, British pounds, Euro or Swiss franc. For more information and to download a Kenya visa application form visit: http://www.immigration.go.ke/index.php
42
Issue 9
TravelInformation
SOUTH SUDAN VISAS
Immigration regulations stipulate that anyone going to South Sudan and wishing to travel outside of Khartoum needs a travel permit from the Government of South Sudan. Those travelling to South Sudan from Kenya, should visit the South Sudan Embassy in Kenya.
VACCINA 0 T 54
Requirements:
All applicants to launch their visas in person Passport must be valid for at least six month and presented on submission of application Two recent colour passport-size photos Yellow fever vaccination card Letter of invitation and intent Standard Visa fees payable by balance transfer to: Government of South Sudan Special Permit Account Bank: Kenya Commercial Bank; Sarit Centre Branch A/C No. 402004247
N IO
• • • • •
Fees: • • • •
FO N IN RMAT IO
The Republic of South Sudan has missions in Kenya, Egypt, Eritrea, Ethiopia, Uganda, the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), Zimbabwe, Nigeria, South Africa, Australia, Norway, Belgium, the UK, Germany, France, Turkey, Libya, China, India, Italy, Canada and the USA.
FLY
Any visitor going to South Sudan through Khartoum requires a valid visa. Visas are issued through the South Sudan Embassy.
HEALTH
Multiple entry: US$250 (six months)/US$400 (one year) Single entry for countries with common boarder with South Sudan: US$50 Single entry for other African countries: US$100 Single entry for European and US citizens: US$100
Vaccination requirements for international travellers
Processing period: Two working days
• No cholera vaccination certificates are required of travellers coming from all over the world.
TANZANIAN VISAS All foreigners from non-Commonwealth countries are required to have a valid visa unless their countries have agreements with Tanzania under which the visa requirement is waived. Exemptions: Citizens of Commonwealth countries are not required to obtain visas unless they are citizens of the United Kingdom, Canada, Nigeria, India, Pakistan, South Africa, New Zealand or Australia. Tanzanian visas are issued by the following:
• The office of the Director of Immigration Services, Dar es Salaam, and the office of the Principal Immigration Officer, Zanzibar. • Entry points to the United Republic of Tanzania: principally Namanga, Tunduma, Sirari, Horohoro, Kigoma Port, Dar es Salaam International Airport, Kilimanjaro International Airport, Zanzibar Harbour and Zanzibar Airport. • Any other gazetted entry point. • From Tanzania High Commissions or embassies abroad. For more information on Tanzanian diplomatic missions visit: www.tanzania.go.tz/tanzaniaembassiesabroad.htm
• Only valid yellow fever vaccination certificates are required of all travellers over one year old, arriving from yellow fever infected countries mainly in central and West Africa, South and Central America South East Asia, India, Nepal, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh. • Vaccination for international travellers are obtainable from all international air and sea ports, city and major municipal councils NB: Make sure you get your yellow fever shot in good time since the yellow fever certificate is valid for travel use 10 days after vaccination.
Africa’s low cost airline: www.fly540.com
43
F
ly540 operates modern aircraft
Cessna Caravan C208
and is constantly updating and
modernising its fleet.
Type: Single turboprop engine, fixed-gear short-haul regional airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 10 passengers
The company uses aircraft such
as the ATR 72-500, which burns only half as much fuel as some other aircraft and also emits less carbon into the atmosphere. This underlines the fact that Fly540 is a ‘green airline’ that cares for the environment. The crew and engineering team are professionally trained and certified to ICAO standards.
BOMBARDIER DASH 8 102 SERIES
ATR 72-500
Type: Twin-engined, medium-range, turboprop airliner Number in service: Three Capacity per aircraft: 37 passengers
Type: Twin-engine turboprop shorthaul regional airliner Number in service: Two Capacity per aircraft: 78 passengers
DC-9 Type: Twin-engine, single-aisle jet airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 80 passengers
Fokker F27 Type: Turboprop cargo airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 1,336 x 210 x 190 cm cargo hold
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Issue 9
FLEETINFORMATION
THE fly540
AIRCRAFT FLEET
Canadair CL-600-2B19 Regional Jet Type: Twin-engine regional jet Number in service: Three Capacity per aircraft: 50 passengers
Fokker F28 Type: Short range jet airliner Number in service:One Capacity per aircraft: 67 passengers
Africa’s low cost airline: www.fly540.com
45
KIDZ CORNER FRUITY WORDSEARCH Can you find the words listed below in the letter grid?
APPLE LEMON GRAPE BANANA LIME ORANGE PLUM PEACH MELON PEAR
E F E G H M A M K L
I
I M E N L
U N P R G L A S L T P N R O N W
RIDDLE ME THIS...
P E A R A N A F
What runs but never walks?
X R B F P V B N
Answer: A tap
What is full of holes but can still hold water?
Answer: A sponge
46
A C D L E M O N
Issue 5
O A C P E A C H
KIDZCORNER
SPOT THE
DIFFERENCE
We've made 9 changes to the picture, can you spot them?
JOKE TIME! Q. Why are ghosts bad liars? A. Because you can see right through them
Q. How do you make a milkshake? A. Give it a good scare
Q. What has forty feet and sings? A. The school choir
Q. What did 0 say to 8? A. Nice belt
Q. Why did the picture go to jail? A. Because it was framed
WORD COUNT DEMONST R AT ION
The words have to be at least THREE letters long. And you can't use the letter twice in the same word, unless the letter appears twice in the word. Ready, Steady, Go!
Africa’s low cost airline: www.fly540.com
47
Contacts
CONTACT INFORMATION FIVE FORTY AFRICA – HEAD OFFICE
Riverside Green Suites, Palm Suite, Riverside Drive PO Box 10293-00100 Nairobi, Kenya
Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2391/5 Fax/Tel: +254 (0)20 445 2396 Sales: Tel: +254 (0)737 540 540 Email: info@fly540.com
WILSON AIRPORT 540 SAFARI CIRCUIT SALES Ground floor, Langata House
Tel: +254 (0)20 254 0206 Tel: +254 (0)729 540 540 Tel: +254 (0)735 540 540
Email: 540.safaris@fly540.com
ELDORET 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Tel: +254 (0)53 203 3570/80 ELDORET INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
540 Ticketing & Reservations Office
Tel: +254 (0)53 203 0814 Tel: +254 (0)53 206 3823 ext 658
540 CALL CENTRE
ABC Place, off Waiyaki Way
Tel: +254 (0)20 445 3252/6 Cell: +254 (0)722 540 540; (0)733 540 540 Fax: +254 (0)20 445 3257
JOMO KENYATTA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE, Unit 3 (Domestic Departures)
Tel: +254 (0)20 827 523 Tel: +254 20 827 366 Cell: +254 727 532 273
Unit 1 (International Departures)
Tel: +254 (0)20 827 521
LAMU – NORTH COAST TRAVEL SERVICE Tel: +254 (0)42 213 0312 Tel: +254 (0)42 463 2054 Tel: +254 (0)725 942 444
Email: nctslamu@swiftmalindi.com Email: nctsmalindi@swiftmalindi.com
MOI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT, MOMBASA Tel: +254 (0)41 343 4821 Tel: +254 (0)32 540 540; (0)722 555 730
LAICO REGENCY – 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Mezz. floor, Shopping Arcade
Tel: +254 (0)20 224 3211/3/4 Cell: +254 727 540 540; (0)737 540 540 Fax: +254 (0)20 224 3219
Issue 9
RESERVATIONS Tel: +49 (0)69 770 673 076 Fax: +49 (0)69 770 673 028 Email: Res540.FRA@aviareps.com
SALES Tel: +49 (0) 69 770 673 077 Fax: +49 (0)69 770 673 235
SALES Tel: +27 (0) 722 0229 / +27 74 177 1596
RESERVATIONS Tel: +39 02 4345 8346 Fax: +39 02 4345 8336
Barclays Centre, Diani Road
Tel: +254 (0)20 354 6532 Tel: +254 (0)726 453 246
UGANDA ENTEBBE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE
Tel: +256 (0)314 540 540 Tel: +256 (0)315 540 540 Sales: Tel: +256 (0)713 540 540
KAMPALA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE 1st Floor, Oasis Mall
Tel: +256 (0)414 346 915/999 Tel: +256 (0)312 540 540 Sales: Tel: +256 (0)712 540 540; (0)776 540 540
Email: Sales.juba@fly540.com
BELGIUM AVIAREPS AG
J.E. Mommaertslaan 16b (2nd floor), 1831 Diegem
RESERVATIONS Tel: +32 (0)2 712 04 93 Fax: +32 (0)2 725 83 92
Email: Res540.BRU@aviareps.com
SALES Tel: +32 (0)2 712 05 84 Fax: +32 (0)2 725 83 92
38 Wierda Road West Wierda Valley Sandton, Johannesburg
RESERVATIONS Tel: +27 (0) 11 722 0229 Fax: +27 (0) 11 783 8135
UKUNDA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS
Email: Sales540.BRU@aviareps.co
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AVIAREPS (PTY) Ltd
Kaiserstrasse 77 60329 Frankfurt am Main
AVIAREPS AG
JUBA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE Tel: +211 959 540540; +211 999 540540
Tel: +254 (0)770 639 429 Tel: +254 (0)724 457 374 Tel: +254 (0)735 540 547
AVIAREPS AG
Tel: +254 (0)41 231 9078/9 Mob: +254 (0)728 540 540; (0)710 540 540
Ground Floor, Mombasa Trade Centre, Nkrumah Road
Tel: +254 (0)734 540 550 Tel: +254 (0)711 908 330
Terminal Building, Kitale Airstrip
SOUTH AFRICA
Email: sales540.FRA@aviareps.com
SOUTH SUDAN
KITALE TICKETING & RESERVATIONS
GERMANY
MOMBASA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS OFFICE
KAKAMEGA 540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS Holden Mall - above Nakumatt
540 TICKETING & RESERVATIONS
ITALY Via Monte Rosa, 20 20149 Milan
Email: Res540.MIL@aviareps.com
SALES & MARKETING MANAGER Maria Rosa Cappelli
Mobile: +39 335 778 5936
Email: mcappelli@aviareps.com
NETHERLANDS AVIAREPS AG
Beechavenue 104 1119 PP Schiphol
RESERVATIONS Tel: +31 (0)20 654 79 29 Fax: +31 (0)20 623 01 51
Email: Res540.AMS@aviareps.com
SALES Tel: +31 (0)20 520 02 82 Fax: +31 (0)20 623 01 51
Email: Sales540.AMS@aviareps.com
RUSSIAN FEDERATION GSA AVIAREPS AG
Prospect Mira, 39 Bldg 2 129110 Moscow
RESERVATIONS Tel: +7 (495) 937 59 50 Fax: +7 (495) 937 5951
Email: Res540.MOW@aviareps.com
SALES Tel: +7 (495) 937 59 50 Fax: +7 (495) 937 5951
Email: Sales540.MOW@aviareps.com
Email: Res540.JNB@aviareps.com
Fax: +27 (0) 783 8135 Email: Sales540.JNB@aviareps.com
SWITZERLAND AIRLINE & TOURISM CENTER GmbH
Badenerstr. 15, CH-8004 Zürich
RESERVATIONS & SALES Tel: +41 (0) 44 286 99 62 Fax: +41 (0) 44 286 99 63
Email: 540-Switzerland@aviareps.com
UNITED KINGDOM FLY540
c/o AviaCircle, 28-29 The Quadrant Business Centre, 135 Salisbury Road London, NW6 6RJ
RESERVATIONS Tel: 0870 774 2250 Fax: 0870 777 7172
Email: res540@aviacircle.com
SALES Tel: 0870 774 2250 Fax: 0870 774 2250
Email: Sales540@aviacircle.com