Giraffes
Foreword
Welcome aboard
As we embark on a new season, I want to express my sincere gratitude to you, our valued passengers, for your continued support and loyalty. It is because of you that we are able to reach new heights and connect you to the wonders of East Africa.
We are thrilled to announce a significant expansion of our services, connecting Tanzania and Kenya like never before. Starting on June 15, we'll be offering double daily flights to Nairobi, opening a world of possibilities for travellers. From the breathtaking Serengeti and Ngorongoro to the vibrant city of Arusha, you can now easily access Nairobi Wilson Airport.
We are also connecting the idyllic beaches of Zanzibar to Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport, creating a seamless link between Tanzania’s coastal paradise and the bustling Kenyan capital. These new flights add more options and convenience for travellers, with Nairobi’s strategic hub ensuring easy access to Tanzania.
This strategic move is designed to enhance the Tanzania-Kenya tourism circuit, offering unparalleled connectivity between the majestic Serengeti and Maasai Mara, and the sun-kissed shores of Zanzibar and Mombasa. It also reflects our growth
strategy and reinforces Tanzania’s vital role in regional tourism and trade.
Our vision is to become the most valuable airline in East Africa, recognised for our exceptional tourism connectivity and unwavering commitment to customer satisfaction. We are constantly striving to innovate and provide customer-centred solutions. To this end, we're excited to introduce our new Passenger Service System – Kiu – and a user-friendly mobile app. As a special thank you for embracing our digital platform, you'll receive a 5 per cent discount on every flight booked through the app.
We are confident that these new routes and enhancements will make your travel experience even more enjoyable and convenient.
Thank you again for choosing to fly with us.
Happy landings,
Munawer Dhirani Managing Director and Accountable Manager
Nairobi's mind-bending new attraction 12
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The
What’s new at Flightlink
Take a look at the latest goings-on across our airline
A scenic sky safari over Mt Kilimanjaro, Amboseli elephants and the Maasai plains
Flightlink has crafted a unique flight experience that transforms your travel north from Arusha to Nairobi into a memorable aerial escape with a classic meal in the Kenyan capital to round off the adventure.
After taking off from Arusha airport your aircraft will soar above Mt Kilimanjaro. Our unique flight path takes passengers up close to marvel at Africa’s highest point at eye level.
From there the flight takes in Amboseli. This is an opportunity to see the huge herds of elephant the national park is renowned from a breathtaking perspective.
You’ll also take in the Maasai-owned
A new bird joins the fleet
Flightlink’s third ATR 72-500 in its expanding fleet is now in operation. The 72-seater entered service in February and will enable us to fly more passengers within the tourist travel corridor of Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar, Arusha and Mombasa.
The aircraft passed its technical acceptance – which ensures it meets all agreed-upon specifications and is ready for operation – at Las Palmas Airport in Gran Canaria.
savannah land that surrounds Amboseli and see traditional villages set amid the beautiful landscape.
Then it’s time for touchdown at Nairobi Wilson Airport, but that is not the end of the adventure. Passengers head straight to
the capital’s world-famous Carnivore Restaurant with its huge variety of meats roasted on traditional Maasai swords for a delicious finale.
Book your adventure today from US$ 135. Visit book.flightlink.co.tz
The technical team at Flightlink then worked with airport transfer company Aergo Capital to ensure the safe smooth delivery of the aircraft in Tanzania.
The arrival of the ATR 72-500, which was financed by Diamond Trust Bank Tanzania, represents an important step in Flightlink’s commitment to revolutionising travel in Tanzania with air travel becoming a key component of the nation’s transportation framework.
Unique safaris
Wildlife adventures without a 4x4 in sight
From camels to canoes, here’s some ways to spice up your safari
If you're after a safari experience that is as wild as the animals on your must-see list, it might be time to forget the 4x4 and take some less traditional transport.
. Horse riding
ANOTHER WAY to get off the beaten track and venture into areas inaccessible to vehicles is on a horseback safari. The wildlife often does not see horse riders as a threat, so riders can have very intimate experiences, even with large animals such as elephant and rhino. Plains game such as zebra, wildebeest and antelope accept horses into their herd and will peacefully graze with riders just a few metres away. That means in Serengeti there is chance to get incredible access to the Great Migration – one of the world’s greatest natural spectacles. Tour company African Horse Safaris offers a seven-day horseback trip in Serengeti with nights under the stars in a mobile safari camp. For more information, visit africanhorsesafaris.com
As you will navigating your horse around big game on this trip a decent level of ability in the saddle is required, but there are Tanzanian trips that cater for beginners with shorter rides.
Canoe safaris
Walking safaris
EXPLORING TANZANIA’S wilds on foot makes you alive to the intimacies of its ecosystem. It offers a close communion with nature, allowing you a chance to touch, smell and listen. These ‘slow safaris’ give you time to explore some off-piste parts of parks such as Serengeti. There a small number of companies licensed to operate in specially designated wilderness zones where game-driving is not allowed. Walking is tightly regulated and is always conducted by experienced and knowledgeable armed guides.
YOU CAN EXPLORE WILDLIFE from the water in Tanzania. Canoe safaris allow you to get close to lake-dwelling animals and birds. It’s a serene experience paddling across lakes and getting a deep appreciation of your surroundings. A guide will help you seek out the wildlife and will pilot the safest path to follow when you come across animals in the water such as hippos and crocodiles that should be given a wide berth. In Arusha canoe trips are available in the small crater lake of Lake Duluti as well as Small Momella Lake within Arusha National Park. The shallow alkaline Lake Manyara is also popular with wilderness paddlers who get can get amazing access to the lake’s ‘hippo pool’.
Unique safaris
Wildlife adventures without a 4x4 in sight
Hot air balloon
SOARING OVER SERENGETI’S endless plains at sunrise is a magical experience. The early morning start not only mean stable breezes, but they also provide good opportunities for animal spotting with predators like lions, leopards, and cheetahs emerging in the cool dawn to hunt. During most flights the pilot will include sections flown at a higher altitude to shopcase the golden hour views while dropping low –sometimes to follow the path of rivers – to get the best wildlife views. Miracle Experiences has a fleet of 11 balloons operating across Serengeti with an all-year-round base in Flightlink destination Seronera as well as seasonal bases in Kirawira, Kogatende, Ndutu, the last of which is home to grazing ground for the Great Migration’s wildebeest and zebra in December through March. For more information, visit miracleexperience.co.tz
Camel safari
IN THE 1990S a Somalian businessman entered Tanzania with 20 camels. However, the paperwork for the venture didn’t meet the requirements of the Tanzanian government so the businessman quickly returned home, without his camels. The abandoned ungulates were adopted by local Maasai communities who with their skill for pastoral farming reared a herd of camels that now totals more than four hundred. The camels have become an important part of Maasai life as modes of transport and as a source of vitamin-infused milk. They are also as unique safari vehicles for tourists with Maasai-led day safaris being carried out in the direction of Kilimanjaro, Longido Mountain and Lake Natron. There are also two-day tours available that pass the wildlife corridor between Amboseli and Tarangire and Arusha national parks. Short (30-minute) camel rides are also offered from the Meserani Snake Park just outside Arusha town.
Motorbike adventure
A MOTORBIKE SAFARI in Tanzania is an unforgettable off-road adventure. Feel the wind in your hair as you zip along dirt tracks in some of the country’s most remote but rewarding locations. Arushabased adventure tour company 4Stroke Maasai offer multi-day guided tours across Tanzania on its fleet of off-road vehicles. The two bike-mad friends behind the company know the country inside out and have put together day trips and multi-day adventures in places as diverse as Lake Natron, the Usambara Mountains and Tarangire National Park. Trips can be adapted for all levels of rider and can accommodate single to group bookings. For more information, visit @4strokemaasai on Instagram
Saddle up for a camel ride
Hot air balloons provide a soaring safari at the golden hour
HOW TO TAKE PICTURES LIKE A PRO ON YOUR TRIP
Your Flightlink adventure will reveal some spectacular sights from awe-inspiring landscapes to majestic wildlife. Capturing these moments on camera will keep the magic alive forever and allow you to share your travel story with others.
To help you create travel photos that pop, we’ve got some expert tips from Tanzanian professional photographer Imani Nsamila. Kigoma-born Imani specialises in photojournalism, documentary photography and environmental stories and in 2022 he was named Photographer of the Year at the Tanzania Digital Awards.
Here is Imani’s advice on how to make sure you are taking the best possible pictures. As inspiration, we have also added some of Imani’s recent work taken during his travels in mainland Tanzania, Madagascar and South Africa.
1. Think of a story, not a picture.
Anybody can hold a camera and press the shutter. It’s called taking a picture. However, when you frame and capture a moment that invites people in and makes them ask questions, then you have something more.
2. Pay attention.
Be in the moment and you will notice and see things others don’t see. Photography causes you to notice and appreciate details in life, little moments of beauty or interest, which most people would just ignore. These are moments to capture.
3. Don’t copy other photographers.
Everyone is different. Have the confidence to be led by your ideas. Think about what makes you different, what can you offer that the others don’t or can't? Be inspired and try to do things your way.
4. Be on standby mode always.
Great pictures and stories (moments) come and go very fast and do not wait for you to be ready. Always have your camera to hand and always be prepared for that moment when the world provides you with that perfect shot.
5. Information is key.
Be informed, and you will be able to tell great stories. Understanding your subject, learning about its history, context and significance
Always have your camera to hand and always be prepared for that moment."
will help you create more insightful images. Research can help you be better prepared so for example you know the behaviour traits and habitats of the animal you are tracking.
6. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes.
Making mistakes is an important part of every photographic journey. Like an author goes through many drafts before he has a finished novel so a photographer can use images that didn’t work to refine what they do want to achieve. Fail better each time.
7. Know your equipment.
Whether you are working with just your smart phone or you have a dedicated camera with a range of lenses, it is important to familiarise yourself with your tech so you can make the most of its features. Make sure you get in plenty of practise before your Flightlink trip!
NAIROBI GETS A MESMERISING NEW MUSEUM
The Museum of Illusions opened in January this year as the largest ‘edutainment’ venue of its kind in Africa. Harriet James was among the first visitors to explore its mind-bending exhibits.
Ilove exploring museums. They allow us to travel through time and explore different periods, cultures, and civilizations. In addition, museums have the power to make us feel connected to something greater than ourselves, whether it’s the shared human experience of art, the collective effort of scientific discovery, or the triumphs and tragedies of history.
The recently opened Museum of Illusions in Nairobi is not a traditional museum. It is part of a global edutainment franchise and the third and largest to be built in Africa. The venue in Laxcon Court and Plaza, in the Parklands neighbourhood, joins a global network of over 50 locations, including iconic cities such as New York, Las Vegas, Paris, Istanbul, Madrid, Dubai, and South Africa. This new addition boasts more than 60 mind-bending exhibits that offer a captivating mix of optical illusions, immersive rooms, holograms, and stereograms for all ages.
Photos encouraged
One thing I loved immediately was that I could take photos everywhere. I took advantage. I started snapping in the Infinity Room and was able to capture images of different versions of me. It felt like stepping into an entirely different dimension. I was surrounded by mirrors on every surface; on the ceiling, floors and walls and looking at it created an illusion that the space extends endlessly in all directions. I couldn’t tell where the room began or ended. This is a museum are similar in that they both invite you to
step outside the conventional understanding and embrace a world that isn’t always the same.
The next section I explored was the coning table which was a mix of curiosity and mild disorientation. As I approached the table, it appeared as if the table was dangerously titled
it created an illusion that the space extends endlessly in all directions. I couldn’t tell where the room began or ended."
at a steep angle. The design and layout of the room felt like made my mind feel like it was being tricked and that at any time I would slide off as I sat down. To compensate for the sliding feel, I leaned on one side and finally had my mind balance. Though fun, it’s a dizzying experience.
Another room that was fascinating is the Ames Room. It looks like a normal rectangular room, but it is actually distorted in shape. You’ll notice this when you stand in different corners of the room and notice that your size is changing dramatically despite the fact that everyone is standing at the same distance from the camera. When it felt like the tour was over, my guide took me to the next room dubbed the ‘Head on
The museum is full of interactive exhibits
a Platter’. It is a quirky and eerie experience. As you step into the room, a large platter is seen ahead positioned in such a way that it seems like your head is placed right on it, as if you're part of some strange banquet. But behind the scenes, the trick is just in the perspective and the strategic placement of mirrors, which create a visual illusion that your head appears isolated and detached, sitting in the center of the platter. I loved how many photos came out playing with the illusions.
Downstairs, I explored the ‘Matatu Room’, that reflected the colourful and intricate designs commonly seen on the public transport system in
Kenya. The room uses optical illusions and distorted perspectives to reflect the flamboyant nature of the iconic minibuses.
Into the Vortex
Next was the ‘Colour Room,’ an immersive and captivating space designed to challenge how we perceive colours. As I stepped into this room, I was surrounded by vibrant, shifting colours that seemed to change depending on my perspective.
The walls, lighting, and objects in the room created an ambience that played with my brain’s perception of colour. It was amazing to discover how easily our senses can be tricked.
The experience was both visually stimulating and thought-provoking, offering a reminder that our perception of colour can be deeply influenced by the environment around us.
The last space to explore was the Vortex Tunnel. This cylindrical passageway is seriously disorientating. Although the walkway remains completely still, the surrounding environment gives the sensation of spinning, tricking your brain into thinking you're moving. Like the rest of the museum, it’s a fun yet bewildering experience.
Opening hours Monday to Wednesday, 10am to 8pm; Thursday to Sunday 10am to 9pm.
Tickets are available through the official website: museumofillusionsnairobi.co.ke
Turn your body into art in the Colour Room
Nairobi in numbers
With Flightlink adding Nairobi to its international network in June, we share some statistics on the Kenyan capital.
5,767,000
The current metropolitan area population of Nairobi. The city is one of the fastest growing cities in Africa. Since 1986 it has doubled in size and is currently growing at a rate of around 2 per cent each year.
2
The number of crossed spears in the Kenyan flag. Along with a traditional Maasai shield, they form the motif at the centre of a horizontal strips of black, red, and green with a white border. Black represents the people, red signifies the struggle for independence, green symbolises the land, and white represents peace and unity. The flag was adopted upon Kenya's independence on December 12, 1963.
1,680 metres
The elevation above sea level that Nairobi stands at. That altitude is due to the city’s location within the Central Highlands of Kenya and contributes to the city’s cooler climate in contrast to other parts of the country.
2,570 acres
The size of Karura Forest. Kenya’s biggest protected forest reserve is known as the ‘green lungs’ of the city and locals walk and run its network of trails.
1954
The date Nairobi was given city status. It quickly grew to replace Mombasa as Kenya’s capital in 1963.
1
The number of capital cities in the world with a national park within their boundaries. The name of the capital? You guessed it, Nairobi. Just a short drive from the centre of the ‘safari capital’ will bring you to the abundant wildlife of Nairobi National Park.
15,000
The current estimation of the number of matatus that operate in the city. These public mini buses are often skilfully spray-painted with street art and are an iconic part of this vibrant city.
HEAD FOR KARURA FOREST RESERVE TO ENJOY THE
‘GREEN CITY IN THE SUN’
The 2,570-acre Karura Forest Reserve on the outskirts of Nairobi plays a big part in the physical and mental wellbeing of locals. Zebra Stripes reveals the options for visitors and what is being done to preserve this serene natural environment.
The 50 km of track that weaves through the dense arrangement of indigenous and exotic trees in Karura Forest is beloved by walkers, cyclists and runners – with many of Kenya’s world-famous endurance athletes training here.
Karura attracts more than 400,000 visitors each year. The park’s popularity with Nairobians is easy to understand. It is just a 15-minute drive from the capital’s central business district, yet it seems a world away from the urban hustle and bustle. Filled with oxygen-emitting flora, the park is literally a breath of fresh air within the reliably traffic-clogged city.
Residents cherish what the park – one of the largest urban gazetted forests in the world –adds to the quality of their lives and community-led organisations such as the Friends of Karura Forest work year-round to sustain the forest with tree-planting programmes and fundraising events.
Rangers in the forest are also onboard with the promotion of emission-free transport in the forest. Time was when the tell-tale engine roar of a ranger’s motorbike was as much a part of
the Karura Forest Reserve’s unique soundscape as the gruff morning calls of the black and white colobus monkeys that call this biodiverse woodland their home. However, thanks to the donation in 2021 of a fleet of electronic bikes, the rangers now patrol the park noise and emissions-free.
Visitors to the park can also explore by electric bike. Pan-African e-mobility company eBee Africa holds regular weekend rides in the park starting from its showroom in Chaka Road.
There is no entry fee to ride an e-bike in the forest. If you are riding a pedal-powered conventional bicycle, it costs KES 100 to access the park. Other options include selecting a bike at one of the three bike-hire centres in the park or joining a bike tour company such as Let’s Drift in which all equipment is provided and there is the opportunity to venture beyond the trails and explore lesser-known parts of the park.
You don’t have to run or ride in the park. Taking it slow is often the best way to really enjoy Karura’s wealth of wildlife. The forest is home to more than 350 species of bird as well as antelope such as suni, Harvey’s duiker and bushbucks, along with bush pigs, genets, civets, honey badgers, bush babies and porcupines. The thriving animal population has benefitted from the efforts of the Friends of Karura Forest to grow and protect
The transformation of Karura Forest
To see Karura Forest Reserve today packed with families enjoying picnics, local pupils on school trips learning about the natural heritage on their doorstep and revellers enjoying lavish wedding parties, it is hard to believe the area used to be one of Nairobi’s most notorious no-go zones.
In the 1980s and 90s the park was unfenced and unmonitored with its dense woodland camouflaging a number of illicit activities, including the brewing of illegal liquor chang’aa, felling trees for firewood, animal poaching and burglars evading police and di-
viding their stash after their latest home raid.
the native woodland. Headliner birds such as the African crowned eagle – the forest’s apex predator – soar above the indigenous trees while the park’s population of colobus monkeys has shot up from 142 to 244 in just eight years with native trees as their refuge.
For a time it seemed Karura would be left to the mercy of land developers that sought to carve the forest up for housing projects, but its cause was taken up environmental campaigner Wangari Maathai. Her Green Belt Movement had already had success saving downtown Nairobi’s Uhuru Park and she was able to
make a passionate case for the protection of Karura that caught the support of the public.
Maathai’s heroic efforts spurred mass action for reforestation not just in Kenya, but across Africa and she would go to become the continent’s first woman recipient of the Nobel Peace Prize.
She paved the way for visionary developments in Kenya such
as the establishment of Community Forest Associations (CFA) that involved the public in their local green spaces.
In 2009, the Friends of Karura Forest CFA was set up and with the support of the Kenya Forest Service has been able to return Karura to being a functioning natural ecosystem reforested with 100 per cent indigenous species.
Karura Forest Reserve top
attractions
The Karura waterfall
Among the park’s network of signposted trails is one that leads to this beautiful 20-metre waterfall.
Jogging trails
5km, 10km and 15km running trails are marked along the forest paths
Bird watching
More than 350 bird species have been recorded in the Karura Forest. There are great sightings to be had all-year round, but from November to April numbers are buoyed by the arrival of migrants from Europe and North Africa.
Play Tennis
Courts at the KFEET Centre grounds can be hired from 7am to 5pm. To book, email info@karurafriends.org or call 0791 398371.
Mountain biking
Its Karura, Gitathuru and Ruaka rivers support groves of native bamboo and small wetlands.
Nairobians now feel invested in the park and make great use of it. Of the 400,000 visitors Karura receives each year, around three quarters of them are locals. From a place to avoid, Karura has become one of the best-loved recreational destinations in the city.
Visitors to Karura Forest can now hire a sturdy multi-speed trail bike to use on designated forest trails. There are rental points at Gate A (Limuru Road) or Gate D (off ICRAF Road), Gate C off Kiambu Road and Gate F off Thigiri Ridge Road.
Walk your dog
There is a designated dog-walking path. All dogs must be kept on a lead, except in sign posted-areas.
Take an eco tour
Trained guides lead these new tours that explore the forest’s ecology, wildlife, geology, history and culture. All tours start at Gate A. Visit friendsofkarura.org for schedules.
Information provided by The Friends of Karura Forest
The
special qualities of the wet season Serengeti
Seven reasons why the Serengeti reigns in the rain
The ‘long rains’ or ‘masika’ in the Maasai language run from March to May in the Serengeti. This is the time to escape the crowds and experience a lush landscape teeming with new life.
1. New life
Late January to March is the time to see the calving. The plentiful sunshine after the short rains of November and December turns the grasslands of the southern Serengeti ecosystem, including the Ndutu Conservation Area, Lake Masek, and Lake Ndutu, into nutrient-rich nursing grounds.
With ample food available and the open grasslands making it easier to spot predators, the female wildebeest produce and suckle their calves. The calving season usually takes place in February and March. During the peak birthing period, more than 500,000 calves are born, with as many as 8,000 born in a single day.
2. Predator action
Nature’s circle of life is beautiful, but it can be cruel. The wet season also attracts the park’s predators who seize the opportunity to fatten up. The abundance of vulnerable, young animals attracts lions, cheetahs and hyenas in great numbers. Serengeti’s population of 3,000-plus lions is boosted still further at that time with the big cats arriving from beyond the park’s borders for a seat at the table of this boundless buffet.
3. Lush landscapes
The Serengeti landscapes are at their greenest and most
beautiful during the wet season. The plains are covered in thick, tall grasses, punctuated by occasional rocky outcrops and spectral acacia trees, which contrary to usual tree behaviour, sheds its leaves during the rainy season. Animals are very active, taking advantage of the abundant water sources and the rich vegetation. It’s true the tall grass cover does mean there’s more opportunities for wildlife to hide from sight, but the tawny fur of lions and antelopes – such effective camouflage during the dry season – is far more distinct against the wet season greenery.
4. Birdwatching at its best
Bird enthusiasts know the wet season is the premier time to visit Serengeti. More than 500 bird species have been recorded in the park and when the rain comes, so do migratory birds from around the world. This is the breeding season when birds are at their loudest and proudest. They become vocal in defending their territories and display vibrant plumage to show off to potential mates. Species such as the aptly named superb starling are especially gregarious and easy to spot during this period, as they congregate in flocks for amazing aerial displays. Prime birding spots in the park include the acacia woodlands of Seronera; Lake Nduti, which is home to a wealth of raptors; and the Lobo Hills where black eagles soar over the peaks.
Lions take advantage of the plentiful prey in the wet season
The special qualities of the wet season Serengeti
5. Escape the crowds
The Serengeti is considered one of the Seven Natural Wonders of World and is Tanzania’s most visited park with around 350,000 people arriving each year. During high season – June to October – it can get very busy, but in the wet months you’ll find its iconic plains empty of people, but certainly not wildlife. This ideal human to animal ratio supports intimate wildlife sightings and gives you the space to breathe and explore at your own pace.
6. Cheaper prices
Another advantage of the absence of crowds during the wet season is that prices for accommodation and safaris are significantly discounted to attract more custom. This is the time to take advantage of a budget-friendly wildlife. Park entry fees and lodge accommodation are both discounted during the low season.
7. Photographer’s dream
There are many wildlife photographers for whom the wet season provides the best opportunities to capture unique wildlife shots. Stormy skies make a more dramatic backdrop than one that is clear blue and then there is the green, lush vegetation providing a vibrant backdrop. Animals are also more accommodating subjects at this time of year with the reduced visitor numbers encouraging
calmer, less-guarded behaviour. Camera-carrying adventurers should find they have more space and privacy to observe the animals and get the shot they want. Rainfall can also spur animals to behave in fascinating and photogenic ways – you may even see a lion taking refuge from the rain up a tree in the Ndutu area. The plentiful and colourful bird life at this time also makes for striking pictures. Make sure you pack a waterproof cover to protect your photographic equipment.
HOW TO GET THE TRUE TASTE OF STONE TOWN
The cultural melting pot of Zanzibar’s historic capital Stone Town is reflected in its cuisine. To get an authentic flavour of the food that has fuelled life here for centuries, it pays to venture beyond the tourist trail. Lodi Mohammed, founder of food tour Eat Like a Zanzibari, is Zebra Stripes' guide to Stone Town's street food scene.
Q:On the Eat Like a Zanzibari website you are described as the ‘unofficial Mayor of Stone Town’. How did you come by that impressive nickname?
It starts with my true love for my hometown. I’ve travelled to
many parts of the world, but there is nowhere I love to be more than Stone Town. Every corner holds a memory for me. I know the family history of nearly every home. The residents are my brothers and sisters (in some cases, quite
literally!). I have four generations of family living behind some of these historical walls. I love everything about it, and I love everyone in it. People around my neighbourhood have started to call me ‘the Mayor of Stone Town,’ and I’m honoured by the title!
Q: What inspired you to set up the Stone Town food tours?
What is the experience you want to share with visitors?
I’m so proud that Stone Town is a place that draws thousands of visitors a year. However, what I’ve seen far too much is the homogenization of the tourist experience. Many shops sell the exact same items, most of which are not even from Zanzibar, and many restaurants sell the same foods, often international cuisine that has very limited Zanzibari influence at all. Meanwhile, just outside those doors, locals are still enjoying the most authentic Zanzibari foods in the most authentic Zanzibari way, right there on the steps of Stone Town. For guests to enjoy what’s unique about Stone Town, they need to step away from the restaurants
and trinket shops.
Q: How do you think exploring a city’s food scene can reveal about its culture?
I think it can reveal how communal the culture is and how eating is considered a social and fun experience!
Q: How would you describe Swahili cuisine?
It’s flavourful and unique, deeply rooted in culture and rich in tradition. It’s a fusion of so many different types of cuisine from many parts of the world – Middle East, India, mainland Tanzania. Each influence contains a story from Zanzibar’s fascinating history.
Q: Why is your focus on the town’s street food rather than its restaurants?
In a small and tightly woven town like Stone Town, street food is the local scene. We have many lovely restaurants in Stone Town, but most of them are cater directly to tourists, meaning the cuisine has been “globalised” and tweaked to international tastes. For the authentic flavours loved by locals, street food is the way to go.
Q: You organise morning and evening tours. What food and
Tour guests sit on a baraza (bench) in Stone Town while Lodi (left) educates and entertains
drink do typical Zanzibaris start their day with?
The day must be started with tea, usually a deliciously spiced variety, and most quintessentially paired with a hot loaf of bread that is unique to Stone Town. Book a tour to learn what it is and how it’s made!
Q: Is food a communal experience in Zanzibar and is there a chance for tour visitors to interact with locals on the tour?
Food is always a communal experience! ‘Street food’ here is literally that. Guests on the tour will enjoy each stop on the “barazas” or “stoops” of Stone Town, together passers-by with whoever else from the neighbourhood has stopped by for a treat.
Q: What are some of your Swahili street food favourites?
My favourite is probably uji, which is a local porridge, usually made with coconut milk. There are so many varieties, enjoyed in different ways at different times.
For guest's to enjoy what's unique about Stone Town they need to step away from the restaurants and trinket shops."
Q: Have you learnt something new about the food scene here since you started the tours? What I’ve learned is more like validation in the uniqueness and enjoyability of the Zanzibari street food culture. The guests always love it!
Q: Are the tours kid-friendly? Is there a chance for young
guest to try the ubuyu (candied baobab seeds) that is so popular in Zanzibar?
Tours are kid-friendly, but most fun for kids who are open to trying new foods. Ubuyu is a must-stop!
Q: Can vegans and vegetarians also enjoy the tour? What are the options for them?
Yes, they can! Zanzibari food does not typically use much dairy. Most stops on the tour are inherently vegan/vegetarian with meat as an additional option.
The Eat Like A Zanzibari morning tours run every day from 9.30am to 11.30am. The evening tours run from 6pm to 8pm Monday to Saturday. All tours start from Maru Maru Hotel, Gizenga Street. For more information on the tours or to book, visit www. eatlikeazanzibari.com
New routes
Two Nairobi link sea and safari to Kenyan capital
Exploring new horizons
Flightlink introduces two new routes to the Kenyan capital Nairobi starting in June and July.
Flightlink Limited is proud to bring its passengers seamless connections within the East African Safari circuit, linking Tanzania and Kenya’s most iconic wildlife destinations. Whether you’re a nature enthusiast, a beach lover, or a culture seeker, we’re here to make your journey smoother, faster, and more memorable.
Serengeti, Ngorongoro (Lake Manyara) and Arusha to Nairobi Wilson Airport
From June 15, 2025, Flightlink Limited will operate daily flights from the heart of Tanzania’s iconic Serengeti, Ngorongoro and Arusha regions to Nairobi Wilson Airport. Our reliable Beechcraft 1900 aircraft will ensure a comfortable and efficient journey, perfect for
travellers looking to seamlessly transition from the breathtaking landscapes of the Serengeti National Park and the majestic Mount Kilimanjaro to the vibrant city life of Nairobi.
This route is a game-changer for safari-goers, enabling connections between the world-leading wildlife destinations in Tanzania and Kenya. Nairobi Wilson Airport is also the gateway to wildlife hotspots such as Nairobi National Park, which offers the unique experience of seeing lion, giraffe, and rhino roaming wild against the backdrop of the city skyline.
Zanzibar to Nairobi Jomo Kenyatta Airport
For those dreaming of sun, sand, and sea, Flightlink Limited’s new route from
BOOK YOUR JOURNEY TODAY
Zanzibar direct to Nairobi Jomo Kenyatta International Airport begins July 1, 2025. We’ll operate daily flights using our modern ATR 72-500 aircraft, bridging the idyllic beaches of Zanzibar with the cosmopolitan energy of Nairobi. This connection makes it easier than ever to combine a tropical island escape with an urban adventure.
After soaking up the pristine beaches and historic Stone Town in Zanzibar, hop on a flight to Nairobi and dive into its arts scene, bustling markets, and world-class dining. This route also provides seamless connections to and from international airports and hubs in Tanzania and Kenya, making it a convenient choice for both regional and international travellers.
Why Fly with Flightlink Limited?
Seamless Connections:
Our new routes integrate Tanzania and Kenya’s safari circuits, offering effortless travel between these iconic destinations.
Convenience: Direct flights mean less travel time and more time to explore. Comfort: Enjoy exceptional service and modern aircraft. Gateway to East Africa: These routes connect international airports and hubs, opening endless possibilities for discovering East Africa’s most iconic destinations.
Don’t miss the chance to be among the first to experience these exciting new routes with special introductory fares. Visit www.flightlink.co.tz or contact your travel agent to book your flight today.
New routes
Daily flights link sea and safari to Kenyan capital
New daily flights to elevate your East African adventure
Here’s how adding Nairobi to the Flightlink network from June 15 will make it easier than ever for tourists to move between the region’s most iconic destinations.
The East African adventure reimagined
Nairobi is the perfect hub for exploring the best of the region. Our new daily flights are designed with the modern traveller in mind. Whether you’re a wildlife enthusiast, a culture seeker, or a beach lover, we’ll get you to your next destination quickly and comfortably. From here, you can easily access:
Kenya’s Maasai Mara: Witness the Great Migration, one of the world’s most spectacular wildlife events.
Tanzania’s Serengeti and Ngorongoro Crater: Explore the endless plains and breathtaking landscapes.
Zanzibar: Unwind on white sandy shores and dive into turquoise waters.
The Great Migration
New routes
Daily flights link sea and safari to Kenyan capital
Two airports, one purpose
Our new flights are specifically designed to serve the East African adventure. By connecting Serengeti, Arusha, and Zanzibar to Nairobi’s two key airports, we are revolutionising travel within East Africa, saving you valuable time and resources.
Nairobi Wilson Airport (WIL)
Direct flights from The Serengeti, Ngorongoro Crater and Arusha
Located just minutes from Nairobi’s city centre, Wilson Airport is your gateway to Kenya’s urban charm and regional connections.
Perfect for travellers looking to maximise their time exploring Nairobi’s attractions or hopping to other East African destinations.
BOOK YOUR FLIGHT TODAY
Nairobi Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (NBO)
Direct flights from Zanzibar
As Kenya’s largest aviation hub, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport offers unparalleled connectivity for international travellers and those exploring Kenya’s world-famous wildlife and cultural sites.
Why drive when you can fly?
Say goodbye to endless hours on the road and hello to the convenience and comfort of flying safaris. Driving between East Africa’s top destinations can take hours, if not days, eating into your precious vacation time. With our new direct flights, you can:
Save time: Spend less time traveling and more time exploring.
Maximise your experience: add more destinations to your itinerary without the fatigue of long drives.
Travel in comfort: Enjoy a stress-free journey with our world-class service and amenities.
Book your flight with Flightlink today through our website (flightlink.co.tz) or mobile app (available on Android and Apple devices) and receive a 5% discount.
Ngorongoro Crater
SNAKE CLINIC
SAVING LIVES FOR OVER 30 YEARS
The Meserani Snake Clinic, just outside Arusha, has saved hundreds of lives and treated thousands more by administering antivenom injections and expert care to snake bite victims. It’s the only clinic of its kind in Tanzania, a country that is home to many of the world’s deadliest snakes. Owner Lynn ‘Ma’ Bale reveals its 32-year story.
If you are bitten by a black mamba, you don’t have much time. The long, slender snake is widely considered the deadliest and most poisonous reptile in the world. Just two drops of its venom from a bite can kill a human.
Your one chance is to get a dose of antivenom – which boosts the body’s immune system against the bite – as fast as possible. The only place that stocks the treatment in Tanzania – a country that is not only home to black mamba, but also venomous snakes such as spitting cobras, boomslangs and puffadders – is the Meserani Snake Clinic located just outside the city of Arusha in the north of the country.
The clinic was set up by the Bale family in 1993 after they purchased an eight-acre patch of deserted scrubland in the Meserani region and moved there from their home in Durban, South Africa. “We decided on an adventure,” says Lynn Bale.
Over the next 30 years she and her husband, Beresford, set up the clinic, a reptile park, a workshop for vehicle repairs, a campsite for overlander tourists, a Maasai craft centre and a bar and restaurant. With the site conveniently situated off the A104 Dodoma road that connects Arusha with Tanzania’s wealth of wildlife adventures such as Lake Manyara, Serengeti and Ngorongoro further west, it soon established itself as a popular tourist stop-off.
Beresford died in 2020. The loss hit Lynn hard, but she has continued to keep the site running. The couple first arrived in Meserani with their son Wade, who now work abroad, but Lynn is known by everyone in the community as ‘Ma’. “I treat everyone like they are my children,” she says.
That caring nature is at the heart of the clinic, which dispenses free, potentially life-saving treatment to locals.
The idea for the clinic came from Wade, who from a young age was obsessed with snakes. “He and his friend Deon Naude used to find and capture them in the wild and keep them as pets in the house,” Lynn says.
The collection of found snakes formed the beginnings of the menagerie of reptiles at the Meserani Snake Park, an animal centre that has become a favourite on the Arusha tourist trails and now houses over 70 species of snakes – some of which can be handled by visitors – as well as crocodiles, monitor lizards and tortoises.
Dependent on donations
Wade’s other passion is healthcare. He now lives in Oregon in the US where he works as a paramedic. “He and his friends raised money to build the clinic here,” says Lynn. Donations have continued to come in over the years from visitors to the snake park and campsite who are moved to support the vital work carried out here.
The clinic could not survive without the donations. “Antivenom is very expensive,”
Nearly everyone should survive a snakebite if they have the right antidote and care."
Lynn says. “Even in 1993 it cost a lot to get a supply. We now source it from India because South Africa is not making it anymore. We also get donations and antivenom from Jonas Nickel [the head of NGO Pflaster für Tansania e.V that supports medical projects in East Africa].”
Despite the expense of the antivenom, the clinic does not charge for its services. The majority of its patients come from the surrounding rural community where money is tight and access to healthcare is limited. “From the moment we opened, when people were bitten, they would come to us for treatment,” Lynn says. “They could not pay, and we could not refuse them so we did it for free. It has continued that way ever since.”
While most people make their own way to the clinic for treatment, Lynn has had instances of patients bitten by black mambas – where every second counts – that were flown into the Meserani site. The impact of the service for the community is huge.
Lynn can’t put a figure on the number of patients the clinic has healed since its launch, but when pushed approximates that it runs into the thousands with hundreds owing their lives to its treatments.
I get to see some of those patients on a speculative visit to Meserani. It’s a dark evening
in early December – low season in Tanzania tourism terms – and the campsite is empty. Everyone appears to have turned in for the night. However, a mechanic tinkering with a 4x4 in the workshop greets us and heads to the house to notify Lynn of our presence.
Lynn soon arrives and opens up the bar for us to chat. It’s quite a place. Sawdust is spread on the floor and the walls and ceiling are adorned with banknotes from all over the world – an indication of the international crowd that passes through here.
Clinic will continue
The bar has obviously hosted some raucous nights over the years, but this evening it’s just the three of us. Lynn shares the site’s three-decade story and then walks us to the clinic.
It is basic, but clean with two rooms each holding three beds for patients and two treatment rooms. There is a nurse on duty. “We have a team of two nurses and doctors on call,” Lynn says.
Each bed in the treatment rooms is occupied. All but one of the six patients are children with a couple that look to be aged under five. This is normal, Lynn tells me. Young children have not yet built a fear factor around snakes so will often get closer than they should and unwittingly provoke an attack.
Nearly everyone should survive a snakebite if they have the
right antidote and care. The patients in the clinic all appear to be recovering well and all look content despite their frightening ordeal. “For some snakes there is no antivenom,” Lynn says. In these cases, the team cleans and tries to remove as much of the infected tissue from the wound as possible to contain its spread. “We care for patients until the snake bite is healed,” Lynn says. “We do general doctoring as well.”
Lynn turns 76 this year but has no intention of moving on. “I’m very happy here. This is my home now,” she says. The site continues to develop. A series of huts built by Beresford are now occupied by a group of Maasai women artisans who create and sell their work there.
The clinic is very much part of future plans here, but funding continues to be a challenge. Recently Tanzania Association of Tour Operators was moved to make an appeal for donors towards the running of the clinic. Lynn says visitors continue to be a much-appreciated source of financial support, but she is also working with Nickel to secure NGO status for the clinic to open up other funding channels such as government grants.
The donations support an invaluable and selfless service that continues to ensure black mamba bites are not a death sentence in Tanzania.
To donate towards the running of the clinic or to get more information, visit www.pflasterfuertansania.com
The Meserani Snake Clinic is the only place of its kind in Tanzania. It dispenses free care to locals bitten by snakes
THE SULTANS OF ZANZIBAR
How the legacy of centuries of Omani rule has left an indelible mark on the life and landscape of the Zanzibar archipelago.
For over a century, the dominion of the sultanate of Zanzibar extended along the East African coast from Somalia in the north to Mozambique in the south and stretched as far inland as Lake Malawi. At its heart was Zanzibar Island and its capital Stone Town, which became one of the largest and wealthiest cities in the region. This trading empire formed the roots of the cosmopolitan commerce and culture of the Swahili people of the Indian Ocean coastline, but it came at a terrible human cost with hundreds of thousands of Africans enslaved to work in brutal conditions for the ruling Arab elite.
Stone Town today is a living museum that reveals in architectural remnants its former wealth and influence as well as the infamous practices that fuelled it. You’ll find lavish merchant homes with brass-studded doors, former Sultans’ palaces, bath houses, and grand mosques and minarets. Just footsteps away you’ll also come upon the remains of one of the world’s last open slave markets.
Omani Arabs – who were building a thriving sea-going commercial empire – ousted the Portuguese colonial forces from the coast in the late 17th century with victorious battles in Mombasa, Pemba and
Unguja. Omani rule was established over Zanzibar in 1698 and the archipelago became part of a thriving Omani Empire that at the time included parts of modern-day Oman as well as coastal regions of Iran and Pakistan.
Centre for Omani trade
Under Omani rule, the most fertile land was handed over to Omani aristocrats with slaves doing the farming. An international commercial empire was created along the East African coast. Each year, fleets of dhows would bring in iron, cloth, sugar and dates from Arabia, Persia and India powered by the northwest monsoon winds. When the winds shifted to the southwest, the vessels would be laden with copal tree resin for incense, cloves, coconuts, rice, ivory, and slaves for the return journey.
Oman’s strategic location and maritime history made it a powerful trading power in the region, however it was not until the mid-19th century when Sultan Said bin Sultan moved his capital to Zanzibar that the island became a major centre of
Omani trade and commerce. Said bin Sultan was the ruler of Muscat and Oman and of Zanzibar from 1806 to 56. However, defending Oman against its many would-be conquerors meant he did not set foot on Zanzibar soil until the year 1828.
It was love at first sight. In contrast to the arid landscape of Oman, Zanzibar was a verdant paradise. It was also easily defended and closer to the African mainland – the source of his wealth.
In 1840 Said bin Sultan moved his royal household to Zanzibar and declared it the new capital of his empire. His extended family-built palaces, bath houses and country manors on Zanzibar, and introduced the commercial farming of crops. The Sultan’s Palace, which still stands on the Stone Town seafront, was constructed between 1827 and 1834 for
Sultan Barghash bin Said
Said bin Sultan and was home to all subsequent sultans until the Revolution.
Despite Said bin Sultan signing treaties in 1822 and 1845 to restrict the slave trade, the export of slaves in the Sultanate of Zanzibar continued into the 20th century.
Said had 36 children. On his death in 1856, his third son, Thuwaini bin Said, became Sultan of the Omani Empire, based in Zanzibar. However, the succession caused a family rift that resulted, in 1861, two separate sultanates being created. Thuwaini became the Sultan of Muscat and Oman while sixth son Majid bin Said became the Sultan of Zanzibar.
Modernising Stone Town
The sultanate continued to soar under Majid’s rule despite his reputation for hedonism – a trait that is rumoured to have led to his untimely death in 1870 at the age of just 36.
Majid’s marriage produced only one daughter so he was
In 1840 Said bin Sultan moved his royal household to Zanzibar and declared it the new capital of his empire."
succeeded as Sultan by his half-brother, Barghash, who returned from exile in Bombay (now Mumbai) to take over.
The new sultan began modernising Stone Town with prominent buildings during his reign including Beit-ElAjaib (House of Wonders), Zanzibar’s first building with electricity. Britain had started to develop a relationship with the sultans during Majid’s rule as its imperial interest in Africa grew. Those ties tightened with Barghash. The second Sultan, who ruled from 1870 to 1888, was instrumental in the abolition of the slave trade in Zanzibar, signing two agreements with Britain.
In 1890 Zanzibar became a British protectorate. The subsequent sultans remained sovereigns, but their authority was trimmed. However, a break in the pattern occurred after the death of the sultan Hamad ibn Thuwayn on August 25, 1896, when his nephew, Khālid ibn Barghash, seized the throne.
As the only son of the late Sultan Barghash, Khalid saw himself as the rightful successor. His reign lasted three days before it was cut short by the Anglo-Zanzibar War – a 38-minute skirmish concluded by a British bombardment of the Sultan’s palace that is on record as the shortest war in history.
Longest serving sultan
After Khālid’s defeat, the Britishsupported candidate, Hamud ibn Mohammed, assumed the throne. His successor was Khalīfa ibn Harūb, who went on to be Zanzibar’s longest-serving sultan until his death on October 9, 1960. He was a well-respected leader and a moderating influence in the region during times of political crisis.
In 1963 the sultanate regained its independence, becoming a member of the British Commonwealth. In January 1964 the Zanzibar Revolution overthrew the sultanate and established a republic. In April the presidents of Zanzibar and mainland Tanganyika signed an act of union of their two countries to be named Tanzania later that year. The age of the Sultanate of Zanzibar was over, but the Omani influence along the Swahili coast remains deeply ingrained.
(Below) The House of Wonders in Stone Town was built during Barghash's rule
What to do in Paje
Paje’s magnificent strip of white sand is made for beach breaks that stay long in the memory, but the laidback village on Zanzibar’s south east coast offers far more than just a place to soak up the sun. Here are four reasons to pick Paje.
FOR A ZANZIBAR BEACH BREAK PICK
Kitesurfing
With its steady winds and flat, shallow lagoons, Paje offers excellent kite-surfing conditions. Enthusiasts of the water sport head here during the two trade wind seasons from June to September and December to March and the kiters’ easy-going attitude is a good fit with the humble, laidback villagers. Unlike many other beach spots on the east coast, you can kite surf all day in Paje as high tide fills the inner lagoon while you can find similarly perfect flat-water, knee-deep conditions at low tide in the outer lagoon. The calm, shallow conditions are ideal for beginners while more experienced kiters can seek out freestyle thrills with high tide breaks over the coral reefs.
Cycling
Paje tends not to be spared the crowds that head to the beach resorts in the north of Unguja and the relative calm of the southeast coast also means bike-friendly quieter roads and unspoilt wild nature to explore. Hotel, restaurant and social space Paje by Night (pajebynight.net) provides bikes and tours, including a challenging off-road trip into nearby Jozani Forest, home to the endemic Zanzibar red colobus monkey. It also offers more sedate rides along coast with stops including the historic village of Makunduchi with its crumbling colonial buildings. There are also organised cycle tours of Paje village itself with plenty of white sand to ride on at low tide as well as coastal caves and forest to explore.
Diving
Zanzibar’s east coast is protected by a coral reef about 1 km off-shore which offers excellent diving opportunities. There are a number of dive centres on Paje Beach that will take experienced divers out to the sites or offer PADI open-water courses to prepare people for their first underwater adventures. The nearby Dongwe and Bweju areas offer gentle reef dives as well as more challenging dives.
Zanzibar’s east coast is protected by a coral reef about 1 km offshore which offers excellent diving opportunities
Seaweed soap
Seaweed farmers wading out into the water to tend to their crop are a familiar sight a low tide here. Seaweed farming has been big business in Paje for more than three decades and an important source of income and independence for women, who make up the vast majority of farmers. Standing out in the shallows in their sky-blue smocks will be the mamas of Mwani (mwanizanzibar.com). This local company distinguishes itself in not exporting its harvested seaweed – there is a global demand for its use in medicine, animal feed, fertilizer and even as a biofuel – but rather using it to make nutrient-rich soap and skincare products at its centre in Paje village. You can see the products being made by hand on tours of the centre. Here you can also buy and browse the Mwani range of products, which is also available at various hotels and outlets in the village.
Photo credit: OlegD
A SPEEDY SAFARI IN ARUSHA NATIONAL PARK
A short break in Arusha still allows time for a wildlife adventure. Arusha National Park is just 30-minutes’ drive from the city centre yet offers an escape into an untamed landscape. Mark Edwards squeezes in a speedy safari and is rewarded with some unforgettable animal encounters.
It’s my last day in Arusha and I am scheduled to fly back to Dar es Salaam in the mid-afternoon. According to my guide and Arusha expert, Faysal Alao, this is just enough time to squeeze in a safari in Arusha National Park.
That means an early start. We jump in the 4x4 and head east to the park before the roads congeal with the city’s notorious rush-hour traffic. Still in his 20s, Faysal is the CEO and founder of all-Tanzanian tour company All Day in Africa. He’s secured the company’s 10-seater safari Land Cruiser for the trip and with me as the sole tourist there’s room onboard for his whole team to join us with his drivers, guides and social media team all enjoying a break from the office.
They are a fun, clued-up bunch that delight in sharing the
attractions of their country. Conversation becomes more difficult when we leave the smooth tarmac of the main road for a dirt trail leading to the park’s main gate with all of us silenced by the vehicle’s sudden chiropractic juddering.
Entry passes to the park must be arranged and paid for online ahead of your visit. As a non-resident I am charged
US$ 50 while Tanzanian visitors pay US$ 25. In the low season months of April and May the entrance fee is reduced by US$ 5 for all visitors.
The two-tier pricing system for entry is designed to encourage more domestic tourism. It seems to be working. On the day of my visit most of the other safari vehicles are filled with locals. It’s good to see Tanzanians enjoying their country’s wealth of natural splendours.
Wealth of wildlife
Passes approved, we drive into the park. The thrill is immediate. While Arusha is an attractive city, nestled in verdant highlands, the dynamic topography of its national park is on another level. Rolling woodland unfolds ahead framed by the volcanic amphitheatre of the Meru mountain range with Mount Meru – Tanzania’s second-highest peak – dominating the horizon.
The wealth of wildlife is also striking. Arusha National Park has just three of the Big Five –plenty of elephant and buffalo as well as the occasional leopard – but the relative absence of predators beyond a few hyenas
and wild dogs means the park’s herbivores are not shy.
We approach a basin of scrubland where herds of buffalo and zebra graze along the banks of a stream. It’s early December –the wet season here runs from November to May – so the park is a lush landscape.
The cruiser’s pop-up roof is raised to enable better animal-viewing. It is a source of much amusement among the team that at approaching two metres in height I don’t have to stand on the passenger seats to see out like everyone else.
We take in the scene with binoculars and the diversity of the gathering is revealed. Warthogs also scurry around the fringes and there are clutches of bushbuck, waterbuck and impala. Suddenly, a group of giraffe totter out of the bushes. This is nature in harmony and it is beautiful.
A little further on and our driver stops by a stretch of dense woodland. Some of the trees’ high branches are bending and shaking and we catch sight of the culprits. A troop of colobus monkeys are scurrying about
searching for the most succulent leaves to feed on.
We stop again barely 200 metres later. A troop of more than 30 baboons – including super-cute infants clinging onto their mother’s backs – is crossing the track unconcerned by our presence. They are heading in the direction of the colobus monkeys. Our guide reveals that this will provoke the monkeys to move on. Baboons and colobus monkeys are, respectively, the extroverts and introverts of the primate world and consequently do not get on. It doesn’t aid relations that the boisterous baboon is known to hunt smaller monkeys for food.
The team point out the gate that marks the start point for hikes to the top of Mount Meru. It takes between three to four days to reach the summit and many hikers use it as preparation for
Herds of African Buffalo are a common sight in Arusha National Park
Arusha National Park has just three of the Big Five, but the relative absence of predators means the park's herbivores are not shy."
an ascent of Mount Kilimanjaro 70 km to the east, even though many experts consider it the more challenging climb. There is the option for a day hike (around 20 km in total) that can be booked at the park’s main gate.
Walking safaris
Walking safaris in the park are another booking option. We pass a group on the side of the road accompanied by their armed ranger – the park may be almost predator-free, but buffalo and elephant can be aggressive when they feel threatened.
The forests give way to undulating grassland punctuated by stretches of water. The Momella Lakes are seven shallow lakes located within the park. We head to Small Momella where there is a covered wooden viewing deck with picnic tables. Here Faysal unveils lunch – prepared by his mother – from a series of freezer
bags. It’s delicious. The lake is a serenely sight. Hamerkops fashion gigantic nests on the shoreline while African fish eagles perch, primed to snatch fish from the water surface. There are also three canoeists crossing the lake. It is another safari option available at the main gate and seems a great way to take in the breathtaking beauty here.
After lunch, I stand by the lake and look to the surrounding hills where giraffe stand starkly like living aerials. It seems incredible to see them so high up. Surely those long legs weren’t built for climbing.
seem possessed by a zen-like calm, gazing at us without judgement. Being around them is like a meditation.
Elephant encounter
The park has the largest concentration of giraffes in the world
The park has one of the highest concentrations of giraffe in Tanzania and we see more – this time in close-up – on the circle back to the park gate. We find three indolently munching on shrubs by the roadside. They look at us, fluttering their long lashes, but do not move on. In fact, they are soon joined by three more and now the gigantic animals are on all sides of the vehicle.
Giraffes have always appealed to me – maybe it’s our shared lankiness – and to have these magnificent creatures so close is an unforgettable moment. They
The reverie with these ruminants has to end and I am reminded I have a flight to catch. However, the park has one more memorable animal encounter to bestow before we leave. As the trail threads through forest once again our driver stops and urges us to look to our right. There among the dense vegetation we seen an elephant with its vast ears flapping. Blundering through the bushes come five more, a calf among them. They seem calm, but hungry – shoveling down leaves and branches without pause. However, there is a larger male that doesn’t eat, but stops to block the road behind us. As the bull keeps his eyes on the elephants in his herd, our driver watches him for any signs that it might be wise to drive away. As it is, the elephants munch their way through the vegetation where they are and then amble across the road in search of more. We watch in awe.
Buoyed by another up-close encounter with nature’s giants we leave the park. I catch my flight without a hitch and am soon back in Dar, but, wherever I am, I know my Arusha National Park experience will stay with me.
Mark travelled with All Day in Africa. The homegrown company offers trips to Arusha National Park among its tailor-made experiences across Tanzania that include safaris, mountain climbing or beach holidays. For more details or to book, visit alldayinafrica.com
Elen Marlen _ Shutterstock.com
Michelle says:
Earn your stripes Flightlink quiz
Chance to win a return ticket to Nairobi
We know Flightlink customers are smart – you chose to fly with us for a start – but just how smart? Well, here’s the test:
10 questions to occupy your minds during your flight. Get them all right – you’ll find all the answers within the articles in this issue of Zebra Stripes if you need help – and you could win a return ticket to Nairobi from Dar es Salaam or Zanzibar on us.
HOW TO ENTER
To be in with a chance of winning a return flight to Nairobi from your choice of either Dar es Salaam or Zanzibar international airports, email your answers along with a picture of yourself holding this issue of Zebra Stripes on your flight today to competition@landmarine.org
Closing date for entries is May 20.
Here are the questions!
1
What is the Swahili name for the baobab candy that is a popular street food snack in Zanzibar?
2 How many Museums of Illusions are there across the world?
3 Which months does the long rainy season in Serengeti cover?
4 What is the name of Tanzania’s deadliest snake?
5 Who was the first Sultan of Zanzibar?
6 Flightlink flies to and from two airports in Nairobi. Can you name them both?
7 Which Tanzanian national park has the largest population of giraffes in the world?
8 What is the name of the only capital city in the world to have a national park within its boundaries?
9 What water sport is Paje on Zanzibar Island renowned for?
10 What 72-seater aircraft did Flightlink add to its fleet this year?
Our destinations
The Flightlink network
Our growing network includes eight Tanzanian destinations and is now international with the recent additions of Mombasa and Nairobi in Kenya. Here’s a brief guide to each to help you plan your next trip with Flightlink.
Dar es Salaam
Dar es Salaam (meaning ‘city of peace’ in Arabic) is Tanzania’s largest city and its commercial capital. Dar is the third fastest growing city in Africa and home to a thriving arts, music and food culture. It is also a coastal city with beautiful beaches, including Coco Beach, which is known for wealth of beach bars and nightclubs. Soak up the city's bustle at its markets. Kariakoo Market is the pulse of the city's traditional commerce with fresh fruit, vegetables and spices, second-hand clothes and bargains galore. Make an early start to catch the fishermen laden with the night's catch at Kivukoni Fish Market on the waterfront. It's a great place to see daily life and enjoy seafood. For a more tranquil shopping experience head to The Slipway shopping centre overlooking Msasani Bay.
Zanzibar
Zanzibar is an archipelago of more than 47 islands off the east coast of Tanzania. Unguja (also known as Zanzibar Island)‚ Pemba and Mafia are the main islands and attract visitors from all over the world. The islands are known for their rich history, spectacular beaches and diverse marine life. Unguja is just a 20-minute flight from Dar es Salaam and is famous for its
historic port Stone Town, which is home to a cosmopolitan community shaped by centuries of trade with the Middle East, Europe and Africa, The island is ringed with coral reefs with diverse marine life. An incredible underwater world awaits divers here while kite surfers will love the idyllic conditions of the south-east coast.
Arusha
Arusha in northern Tanzania is the gateway to the world-famous national parks of the ‘Northern Safari Circuit’. It is also the place from where hikers set off to ascend Mount Kilimanjaro. Getting to the top of ‘Kili’, as Africa’s highest peak is affectionately called, is a bucket-list experience for climbers the world over. With close to 760,000 inhabitants‚ Arusha region is one of the most developed in Tanzania‚ not only due to its tourism infrastructure‚ its business community‚ but also because the city serves as home to the diplomatically important East African Community.
Serengeti airstrips
One of Africa’s seven natural wonders, the Serengeti National Park covers an area of over 30,000 sq km and boasts massive wildlife populations, including the Big Five. It is best known for its Great Migration in which millions-strong herds of wildebeest, zebra and antelope move from the Ngorongoro region in the south east‚ westwards into the Serengeti and then north over the border into the Masai Mara and back again in a cyclical search for green pastures to feed on. Lying in wait on this perilous journey are predators including around 4,000 lions.
Dar es Salaam is Tanzania's commercial capital
Kehinde Temitope Odutayo / Shutterstock.com
Elephants walks in the grasslands with Mount Kilimanjaro in the background
www.flightlink.co.tz
Pemba
Pemba‚ often referred to as ‘The Green Island’, is part of the Zanzibar archipelago‚ and is renowned for its lush‚ tropical landscapes‚ including dense forests‚ spice plantations‚ and pristine beaches. The island offers a quieter‚ more authentic experience compared to its larger, more developed Zanzibar Island. Visitors can explore historic ruins‚ vibrant markets‚ and traditional Swahili culture. Pemba is famous for its thriving spice trade‚ particularly cloves. Diving and snorkeling enthusiasts are drawn to the crystal-clear waters surrounding Pemba‚ which host a diverse marine ecosystem‚ including coral reefs.
Kilimanjaro
At 4,985 metres, Mt Kilimanjaro is the highest point in Africa. A guided trek to the top is a bucket-list adventure for hikers worldwide. If you have neither the time nor the inclination for such a challenging endeavour,
the mountain’s lower slopes in Kilimanjaro National Park can be explored on day hikes or bike rides. You’ll discover spectacular biodiversity, wildlife such as elephant, giraffe buffalo as well as a chance to integrate with tribes such as the Chagga and Maasai that call this area home.
Mombasa
Kenya’s oldest city and second largest after Nairobi is the gateway to the magnificent beaches of southern Kenya and the Mombasa National Marine Park. Nearby beaches such as Kilifi‚ Watamu and Diani are among the most beautiful of the East Africa coastline. The cosmopolitan Old Town is a rewarding destination for a walk.
Nairobi (coming June and July)
Nairobi‚ the capital and largest city of Kenya‚ is a dynamic
metropolis. It serves as the political‚ economic‚ and cultural centre of Kenya‚ and it's known as the Green City in the Sun due to its pleasant climate and lush greenery. It boasts a mix of modern skyscrapers and colonial-era architecture. It is the only capital city in the world with a national park in it where wildlife roam against a backdrop of the city’s spectacular skyline.
The 'green island' of Pemba is renowned for its pristine beaches
Rhinoceros roam the Nairobi National Park
Connecting you to Tanzania and beyond
SERENGETI
Fort Ikoma Kogatende
Seronera
Loliondo
Lake
Ndutu
Serengeti
Nairobi
KEY
Current Destinations (Routes)
Serengeti Airstrips
Fort Ikoma, Kogatende, Seronera
Loliondo, Ndutu, Lake Manyara Ngorongoro
New Destinations
Nairobi airports
Jomo Kenyatta International Airport
Wilson International Airport
Current Destinations (Routes)
Serengeti Airsrips
Fort Ikoma, Kogatende, Seronera
Destinations
Dar es Salaam Zanzibar
Pemba
Mombasa
Manyara
Our Fleet Information
Discover the hidden gems of Tanzania with the comfort and efficiency of our ATR72-500
ATR72-500 Twin Engine Turbo Prop Aircraft
Embark on a seamless journey through Tanzania’s breathtaking landscapes aboard our twin engine turbo prop ATR72-500 aircraft. Flightlink operates three ATR72-500 in our fleet. This fuel-efficient, spacious, and comfortable twin-engine turboprop aircraft is perfectly suited for exploring the country’s diverse tourist and business destinations.
With a strong safety record and a design optimized for
short runways, you can confidently reach even the most remote corners of Tanzania. Our commitment to safety is unwavering, with rigorous crew training and meticulous aircraft maintenance adhering to the highest standards. Relax in our single-class economy cabin, featuring a welcoming and spacious
Experience our Bushrover!
Cessna Grand Caravan 208B G1000
The Cessna Grand Caravan 208B is more than just an aircraft; it’s a rugged explorer, engineered to conquer the vast plains of Serengeti and the Maasai Land.
Flightlink operates two Cessna Grand Caravans in our fleet. The aircraft’s exceptional performance allows it
layout with seats arranged in pairs. Enjoy a smooth and quiet flight, knowing you're contributing to a greener future with our aircraft's low emissions and reduced environmental impact. Choose ATR72-500 for a safe, comfortable, and sustainable travel experience in Tanzania with Flightlink.
to operate seamlessly from all major airstrips within the Serengeti, including Seronera, Fort Ikoma, Kogatende, Sasakwa, Ndutu, Lobo, and Lake Manyara.
Renowned for its safety record, the Grand Caravan boasts reliable turbo prop engines, impressive fuel efficiency, and extended range, making it the preferred choice
for efficient and comfortable safaris. Its robust design and quick turnaround capabilities ensure minimal disruptions to your adventure.
Cessna Grand Caravans have spacious cabins with ample legroom and large windows provide passengers with unparalleled comfort and unobstructed views of the savannah and its wildlife.
ATR72-500 Number in fleet: Two
Twin-engine turboprop aircraft
Passenger capacity: 72 seats
Maximum cruising speed: 275 knots per hour (510 km/h)
One Beechcraft 1900C Number in fleet: One Twin-engine turboprop aircraft Passenger capacity: 19 seats
Maximum cruising speed: 284 knots per hour (526 km/h)
Number in fleet: Two
Single engine turbo prop aircraft
Passenger capacity: 13 seats
Maximum cruising speed: 185 knots per hour (343 km/h)
Mezzanine Floor Room 002‚ Oyster Pearl Galleria‚ Chole Road Masaki‚ PO Box 2858, Dar es Salaam‚ Tanzania
Email: customerservice@flightlink.co.tz
Dar es Salaam
24/7: +255 782 354 450
HQ: +255 22 211 2993
Airport: +255 782 354 448/9
Email: sales@flightlink.co.tz
Email: reservations@flightlink.co.tz
Email: dar-reservations@flightlink.co.tz
Cessna Grand Caravan G1000
Travel Information Reasons to fly with us
About us
Established in 2001, Flightlink is a Tanzanian-owned airline, fully licensed and certified to operate in both Tanzania and Kenya. Our core objective is to facilitate convenient travel, bridging the gap between major international airlines and domestic or safari destinations within Tanzania.
Principles
At the heart of our operations are three key principles: safety, punctuality, and exceptional customer service. We are deeply committed to upholding stringent safety standards, ensuring that our passengers reach their destinations both safely and on schedule. Our focus on quality service aims to make every journey with us a memorable experience.
Our Mission
To provide a superior travel experience by delivering safe, on-time flights, exceptional customer service, and innovative solutions, while prioritizing the welfare of our passengers and employees and upholding the highest standards of environmental sustainability.
Our Vision
To be the Tanzanian leader in safe, punctual, and efficient air travel, setting the industry standard through rigorous safety measures, advanced operational practices, and unwavering commitment to customer satisfaction.
Safety standards
Safety Standards are one of Flightlink’s core values‚ and it is the heartbeat of our operations. We are committed to maintaining and improving high levels of safety‚ and to nurturing a safety culture throughout our operations. Our operations conform with EASA‚ FAA‚ ICAO and TCAA standards with strict periodic safety oversights by TCAA.
Flightlink has earned its reputation for operating most environmental and fuel efficient regional aircrafts (ATR72-500‚ Twin Engine Turbo Prop) with generous stand up cabin space whose result are comfort and safety that translate into our success story and market share.
Our Safety Management System (SMS) is guided by International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) standards and its recommended practices. It fully meets and approved by the regulatory requirements of the Tanzania Civil Aviation Authority (TCAA).
The larger ATR72-500 has a stand up pressurized cabin, 2 pilots with 2 cabin crew
1 pc of 20kg on domestic services including Nairobi Wilson and 1 pc of 23kg on international services.
5Kg hand baggage allowance
Free on board snacks and drinks on selected routes
Book, pay and check in online with our Flightlink App
We accept payment with all major currencies and cards
LIPA number and mobile payment accepted
Convenient and timely connections to the tourism circuits
Safe, reliable and on-time performance
Flightlink App (iOS and Android) guaranteed 5% discount
