National Women's Day has just passed with many African businesses – Air Tanzania among them – showcasing their highflying female staff.
Women are increasingly shaping the future of modern Africa. Much of this progressive work is being done in cities that are diverse, inclusive and teeming with innovation and opportunity. What of more rural and remote communities where traditional gender roles are more entrenched? In this issue of Twiga we meet Pendo and Leaha Zawose – collectively known as then Zawose Queens. The duo became the first women within the historic musical legacy of the Wagogo from central Tanzania to grab the spotlight when their debut album, 'Maisha', became an international hit.
Inside you'll read how the Queens dealt with discrimination within the clan on their musical journey. Happily, attitudes our changing and the duo can now count tribal elders among their many fans. markedwards@landmarine.com
Karibu! Welcome aboard Air Tanzania
We are thrilled to have you flying with us today! Settle in, relax, and enjoy your journey – and your copy of Twiga, our exclusive inflight magazine.
Get ready for Kinshasa
Mark your calendars! Starting April 25, Air Tanzania is launching direct flights between Dar es Salaam and Kinshasa, DRC. Getting between Tanzania and the Democratic Republic of Congo is about to get much easier. We'll be flying you there and back four times a week (every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday), making connections seamless.
Bridging nations
This new route is about connecting families, sparking adventures for tourists, forging stronger business partnerships, and boosting trade between our vibrant nations. We’re incredibly proud to play a part in bringing Tanzania and the DRC closer than ever before.
Explore Kinshasa in Twiga
Curious about Kinshasa? Dive into this month's Twiga magazine. Discover the infectious rhythms of its world-famous music scene, its colourful ‘La Sape’ fashion movement, and find hidden gems and must-see spots. Let us inspire your potential next adventure.
Unwavering commitment to your safety
Relax and enjoy your flight, knowing your safety is our absolute priority. From rigorous international safety standards and meticulous aircraft maintenance to our highly trained, professional crews, we ensure every aspect of your journey is safe and secure.
Travel smarter with the Air Tanzania app! Book flights in minutes, check-in effortlessly, manage all your travel details, and unlock special offers designed just for you. Download it today for the ultimate travel convenience.
Thank you for flying with us! Asante sana!
Eng. Peter Rudolf Ulanga Managing Director & CEO Air Tanzania
SALAMU ZA MKURUGENZI MTENDAJI
WA KAMPUNI YA NDEGE TANZANIA
Ni fahari kubwa kwetu kuendelea kuwa sehemu ya safari zako. Tunafurahi kuwa nawe kwenye ndege hii. Pumzika na ufurahie safari ukiwa na nakala yako ya Gazeti la Twiga, Gazeti letu maalum la ndani ya ndege.
Jiandae kwa Kinshasa
Anza kuhesabu siku! Kuanzia tarehe 25 Aprili, 2025, Kampuni ya Ndege Tanzania (ATCL) inaanzisha safari za moja kwa moja kati ya Dar es Salaam, Tanzania na Kinshasa, Jamhuri ya Kidemokrasia ya Kongo. Kwa kutumia Air Tanzania, safari kati miji hii mikubwa sasa zimerahisishwa! Tutakuwa tukiruka mara nne kwa wiki, kila Jumatatu, Jumatano, Ijumaa na Jumapili,
Kuunganisha Mataifa
Kwa kuanzisha safari za moja kwa moja kwenda Kinshasa, Air Tanzania inakuwa daraja muhimu linalounganisha familia, watalii na wafanyabiashara katika jiji hili lenye fursa nyingi kwa bara la Afrika. Kinshasa ni makutano ya burudani, tamaduni, na biashara kutoka kila pande, ikiwa na vivutio vingi, masoko ya kisasa, bidhaa bora, na maeneo ya utalii yanayokua kwa kasi. Tunajivunia kuwa sehemu ya mashirika makubwa ya ndege Afrika, tukiongeza machaguzi kwenye usafiri wa anga na kuokoa muda wa safari kuliko ilivyokuwa hapo awali.
Ifahamu Kinshasa kupitia Gazeti la Twiga
Unavutiwa na Kinshasa? Fungua kurasa za Gazeti la Twiga la mwezi huu! Gundua midundo ya muziki maarufu nchini DRC inayovuma duniani, mtindo wa “La Sape” uliojaa rangi pamoja na vito vya thamani vya jiji hili ambavyo haupaswi kuvikosa. Tunakuletea fursa zote ili kufanya safari yako ya Kinshasa kuwa ya kipekee.
Usalama Wako ni Jukumu Letu
Tunajivunia timu yetu ya wataalamu waliobobea, wakiwemo maafisa usalama, wahandisi wa ndege, wahudumu, na marubani wenye uzoefu, ambao wanahakikisha kila hatua ya safari yako inazingatia viwango vya kimataifa vya usalama kwa ndege, abiria, mizigo na wahudumu wetu. Tunachukua hatua madhubuti za kiusalama kwa kila safari, ili kuhakikisha usalama wako unalindwa muda wote unapokuwa nasi.
Safiri kijanja na Air Tanzania App!
Kwa kutumia Air Tanzania App, abiria sasa wanaweza kukata tiketi na kujisajili kwa urahisi mtandaoni, bila kupoteza muda kwenye foleni. Programu hii inawawezesha wasafiri kusimamia taarifa zao za safari, kununua mizigo, kuchagua viti, na kupata taarifa za haraka kuhusu safari yao wakati wote. Pakua leo na furahia ofa maalum na punguzo la msimu kwa safari zako.
Asante kwa kuchagua kusafiri nasi!
Eng. Peter Rudolf Ulanga
Mkurugenzi Mtendaji na Afisa Mkuu
Air Tanzania
Air Tanzania news
Kinshasa, here we come
Now you can experience Kinshasa's vibrant culture, rich history, and dynamic energy with Air Tanzania.
From April 25 our Airbus A220-300 will be flying to the capital of the Democratic Republic of Congo four times a week. With flights leaving Dar es Salaam every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday, the service aims to improve accessibility between Tanzania’s key commercial hub and the DRC, enhancing business, trade, and tourism links.
For tourists the flights provide easy access between some of Africa’s prime wildlife destinations from the Big Five and the Great Migration in Tanzania’s Serengeti to gorilla trekking in DRC’s Virunga National Park.
Book your ticket today and explore the wonders of Kinshasa, Visit our website www.airtanzania.co.tz or call +255 748 773 900
TWIGA MILES
Join our Twiga Miles loyalty programme and instantly earn 1,000 points and enjoy the best services we offer. See page 67 for more information.
MY TANZANIA… MILDRED SINGANO
The travel and lifestyle content creator inspires wanderlust in her followers on her Instagram page @momi_m_s which is a mood board of the country’s most luxurious escapes. Jal Patel catches up with Mildred, who divides her time between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar, to find out about her local likes and loves.
QWhere is home for you?
To me, home is anywhere I can sleep peacefully, enjoy great food, immerse myself in a new culture, and have meaningful conversations with interesting people.
Q: What is your earliest memory of Dar es Salaam?
The early morning buzz of the city, the smell of freshly brewed coffee from roadside vendors, and the sound of dala dalas rushing by.
Q: What was your first job here?
It was as a personal assistant. I handled schedules, made calls, and learned how fast-paced city life can be.
Q: Where would you suggest for a first date?
Cape Town Fish Market for a stylish oceanfront dining experience. Elements Bar & Lounge for cocktails and a casual, fun vibe. The Slow Leopard for a laid-back burger and craft beer date. A private beach picnic at Coco Beach for a more intimate setting.
Q: How would you describe the personality of a typical Dar es Salaam resident?
They’re early risers…hardworking, resilient, and go-getters. I find them incredibly smart. They hustle through the day but still make time to enjoy life.
Q: Which shops do you regularly visit?
I love shopping at Mlimani City Shopping Mall, and I always find useful things in Kariakoo Market. There are so many great shops!
Q: What’s the best meal you’ve had here?
Rice and calamari curry at Wavuvi on Coco Beach and grilled seafood at Samaki Samaki on Haile Selaisse Road.
Q: What is your transport of choice in the city and why?
Definitely boda bodas (motorbikes). They’re fast, affordable, and great for manoeuvring through the city’s unpredictable traffic.
I prefer a classy restaurant meal with good food, a nice atmosphere, and great service.
Q: If you could change anything about the city, what would it be?
I would fix the traffic! It would be nice if moving around was easier and faster.
Q: What is your favourite building in the city?
The Twin Towers. They look modern and make the skyline stand out.
Q: Where do you like to escape to in Tanzania when you need to relax?
Zanzibar for the beach, Tanga for peace and quiet, and Arusha for cool weather and nature.
Q: What are you up to right now for work?
Managing social media for luxury hotels, safari camps, beach properties, and boutique brands while curating travel experiences in Zanzibar.
Q: Who is your biggest Tanzanian inspiration?
I admire people who start from nothing and build something great like the entrepreneurs, creatives, and anyone making a difference.
Q: Favourite hotel?
Johari Rotana because it’s a mix of luxury and comfort with stunning city views.
Q: Classy restaurant meal or picnic on the beach?
Q: Can you let us in on a secret about Dar es Salaam? It has the best food spots. They’re small local places that don’t even show up on Google Maps! It also offers the best nightlife experience in all of Tanzania.
Q: What do you miss most about Tanzania when you are away?
The friendly people, the food, and the peacefulness. The energy here is special!
5 MUST-VISIT MARKETS IN
MUMBAI
Markets have been an essential part of Mumbai’s commercial culture for more than a century. Full of specialist stalls – from jewellers that help Bollywood stars accessorise to farmers selling just-picked organic produce – these markets offer a true taste of the bustling city. Jal Patel reveals her favourites.
Zaveri Bazaar
When? 11am to 8pm Monday to Saturday.
Where? Kalbadevi, South Mumbai, near Crawford Market and Mumbadevi Temple.
Why? A treasure trove of jewellery. The word Zaveri, is derived from the Hindi and Gujarati word for “jewellery”. Zaveri Bazaar is a favourite among jewellery enthusiasts, wedding shoppers, investors, and resellers. Dating back to 18th century, it is one of the Mumbai’s oldest markets.
Zaveri Bazaar is also the largest gold market, contributing for over 60 per cent of the country’s gold trade. With more than 7,000 shops, it is brimming with gold, silver, diamonds, precious stones, and imitation jewellery. The Indian Film industry is known to source their
oxidised artificial jewellery, silver coins and gold bullion bars.
There have been some high-profile heists over the years, but Zaveri Bazaar is safe for shoppers, thanks to its tight security, armed guards at every corner, and security cameras.
The best time to visit is in the afternoon, ideally after 1pm, when most shops open.
Thursday Market
When? Thursdays 9am to 10pm. Where? S.V. Road, Near the Santacruz Railway Station. Santacruz.
elaborate costume jewellery from here. Alongside costume jewellery, you can expect to find spiritual stones, trending bridal jewellery,
Why? The best place for bargains.
The Thursday Market is a bustling weekly flea market in the Santacruz
Embrace the bustle at Mumbai's markets
Photo by Parikh Mahendra N / Shutterstock.com
Photo by Arun Sambhu mishra / Shutterstock.com
area of Mumbai. Held every Thursday, the open-air market is a haven for street shopping locals, budget shoppers and tourists who love a good bargain. It also is a favourite for students and young professionals.
You can expect to find stalls brimming with cheap but trendy finds, such as footwear, watches, sunglasses, home décor and bedsheets, Western and Indian wear, kids’ clothing and kitchenware. There are also many factory rejects and export surplus from high-end brands available at heavily discounted prices.
Beyond shopping, the market is also popular for its street food, with vendors selling snacks such as vada pav, bhel puri, chaats and many other local delicacies.
The best time to visit is in the early morning, between 9am and noon, when there are fewer people.
Juhu Farmers’ Market
When? Sundays 9am to 1pm. Where? Dilkhush Special School Ground, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu. Why? For planet-friendly produce.
Tucked away in the upscale residential area of Juhu, this eco-conscious market is loved by loyal visitors for its fresh, vegan and organic produce.
The local farmers carry fresh produce from outskirts of Mumbai and other areas like Palghar, Boisar, Satara and Ahmednagar areas. Customers can find locally grown foods like methi, star fruit, rice, sprouts, tomatoes, cucumber, as well as some specialities such as smoked tofu. They also sell non-toxic, allergen free and bio-gradable cleaning products.
The market is overseen by SHARAN (Sanctuary of Health and Reconnection to Animals and Nature Shoppers). Eco-conscious shoppers flock here for fresh produce at prices that are slightly lower than you’d find in supermarkets.
Chor Bazaar
When? 10am to 7pm (closed on Fridays)
Where? Bhendi Bazaar, South Mumbai, near Mohammed Ali Road. Close to Grant Road and Sandhurst Railway stations. Why? To rummage among antiques and collectibles for that special find. But buyers beware!
There is a saying in India that if you have had an item stolen, you are sure to find it at Chor Bazaar! The literal translation of its name is “Thieves’
Markets are ideal for soaking up the local street food scene
Photo by Mandeep Singhs / Shutterstock.com
Photo by bodom / Shutterstock.com
Market,” perhaps because it is a market of hidden loot in the form of antiques, thrift items and vintage collectibles. This market is for those who love a good hunt.
Who knows what you might find here? From quirky, unexpected pieces such as Bollywood memorabilia and vintage typewriters to cameras, musical instruments, and even automobile parts.
Be ready to haggle as vendors are known to quote high prices at first. Remember the thrill of a good market is not just what you find there, but also the deal you get!
Not every item on sale here is as antique as claimed. Be sure to check the items before purchasing because some items could be replicas. It
also pays to be vigilant of your own belongings. This is not for the wandering tourist. Best to take a local with you.
For a calmer shopping experience, visit the market in the morning before the afternoon rush.
Crawford Market
When? Monday to Saturday, 9am to 8pm.
Where? Lokmanya Tilak Marg, Dhobi Talao, Situated close to Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus and Marine Lines Station. Why? A must-visit for history buffs and architecture enthusiasts.
This wholesale market is one of the city’s most well-known markets. It was built in 1869, making it one
From quirky, unexpected pieces such as Bollywood memorabilia and vintage typewriters to cameras, musical instruments, and even automobile parts.
of the oldest markets in India. At that time the country was under British rule and the market was named after Arthur Crawford, the first municipal commissioner of Mumbai. The market was later renamed to honour Indian social reformer Mahatma Jotirao Phule. Its Victorian-era architecture is impressive with features including a grand clock-tower and stainedglass windows. It also was the first area to be lit by electricity.
Expect to find just about anything and everything - fancy crockery, kitchen and homeware, dry fruits, foreign items, perfumes, cheese, party supplies, imported goods as well as chocolate at almost half the price charged by retail stores. The market also sells pets, such as rabbits, dogs and cats.
Thieves Market' is full of vintage delights
Photo by
Photo by leshiy985 /
Photo by
Duttagupta M K / Shutterstock.com
THE CULTURE OF KINSHASA
The latest addition to Air Tanzania’s international network is the dynamic centre of DRC popular culture. Twiga reveals some of the highlights – From sapeurs to soukous –of the mega-city.
Kinshasa has a population of 15 million making it the most populous city in Africa, and the fourth-most-populous capital in the world. It can seem to first-time visitors of the Marché Central that most of those 15 million are also in attendance. This sprawling outdoor market in the city’s Gombe neighbourhood is home to tens of thousands of vendors selling everything from fresh produce to clothes and household goods. It’s best to go with a local guide to help navigate its size and bustle.
‘Zando’ (as the market is known in Lingala, the lingua franca spoken here alongside French) is a great place to see Kinois (Kinshasa residents) going about their daily lives.
Sapeurs
The Society of Ambiance Makers and Elegant People (La Sape) originated in Kinshasa and Brazzaville, two capital cities on opposite banks of the Congo river. Members are known as sapeurs–which comes from the French slang “se saper” meaning “to dress up” – and kit themselves out in brightly coloured, impeccably tailored suits
with co-ordinated accessories such as hats, scarves, and even walking sticks. The movement began in the 1920s as a form of self-expression during colonial times. That sense of resistance has continued into the countries’ independence with sapeurs still symbols of defiance in the face of life’s challenges. Most come from modest backgrounds – sapeurs are known to save entire month’s wages in order to purchase designer items – but are treated like celebrities in Kinshasa. Visitors who want to catch them in all their finery will find there are regular parades on Boulevard du 30 Juin, the city’s main thoroughfare. Should you be lucky enough to be in Kinshasa on February 10, you’ll be able to experience the ‘Day of the Sape’, in which crowds of sapeurs gather at the cemetery in Gombe to celebrate the late Stervos Niarcos, a pop star and icon for the sapeurs known as ‘The Pope’.
Fashion meets ‘trashion’
Far removed from the sapeurs’ designer labels and rigorous cleanliness is the work of a collection of Kinshasa
performance artists creating costumes out of discarded trash. Still there is common ground in the two movements’ shared sense of protest. The artists craft striking costumes out of discarded items such as cigarettes, plastic water bottles, wires, soda drink cans and even wigs to raise awareness of environmental issues facing. The artists take to the streets in their costumes during KinAct, an arts festival that takes place in several of the capital’s neighbourhoods throughout August. Visit kinact_festival on Instagram for more information. There are more repurposed items in the sculptures of internationally renowned artist Freddy Tsimba, who has a studio in the vibrant Matonge neighbourhood. You can also see sculptors and ceramicists at work at the Academy of Fine Arts, which has
a park containing around 40 striking sculptures by students and staff.
The cradle of rumba Music is irrepressible in Kinshasa. Whatever the city is going through, a joyous soundtrack springs from the streets in impromptu performances with musicians supported by gyrating dance troupes. Making music here is such an instinctual form of expression that even a lack of conventional instruments is no barrier. Five-piece Kinshasa street band King Gongolo Kiniata perform with found objects. At their shows roped-together plastic bottles become a xylophone that is played with an old flip-flop while the body of a television is adapted as a bass drum. Staff Benda Bilili – a group of disabled musicians who went from performances near the grounds
of the Kinshasa zoo to acclaimed international tours – are renowned for their unique instruments, including a one-string electric lute made from an empty fish can, a piece of wood and a guitar string. All this music is rooted in rumba. Renowned for its hip-shaking rhythms, intricate guitar work and expressive vocals, Congolese rumba emerged in the 1930s and went on to become one of the most influential forms of music of the African continent. Kinshasa, as the cradle of rumba, was designated a UNESCO City of Music in 2015. You can’t visit the city without spending at least one sweaty night dancing to rumba or its similarly significant urban update soukous. Options include Chacha on the top floor of Kinshasa’s first skyscraper in the Forescom port area, which has great views out over the Congo to accompany its sizzling music nights. Chez Ntemba in Gombe has become a rumba institution while the Pullman Hotel – which in 1974, when it was called the Intercontinental, hosted Muhammed Ali when he was in town to fight George Foreman in the famous ‘Rumble in the Jungle’ – has live music in the evenings. The are also a number of music festivals organised annually in Kinshasa including the International Stars Festival, the JazzKif Festival and the Pan African Music Festival.
National Museum
The La Sape movement began in the 1920s as a form of self-expression during colonial times. That sense of resistance has continued into the country's independence with sapeurs still symbols of defiance in the face of life’s challenges.
More cultural pride is showcased at the National Museum of DRC. The institution now has an impressive new US$ 21 million home by the river in downtown Kinshasa. Across its four halls are exhibitions revealing the history of Congolese art, local musical instruments, pan-African cultural artefacts and an exploration into the life and time of Chief Ndombe of Bieeng, an important chief who in the late 19th century ruled over the Kuba Kingdom in southeastern Congo. The museum also has shops and cafés and visitors can take the elevator to top floor for panoramic views across the city.
/ Kinshasa
Bonobo paradise
The Democratic Republic of Congo is renowned for its rich biodiversity and vast natural parks. Salonga National Park in the Congo Basin rainforest is home to unique flora and fauna such as the bonobo, an endangered monkey that can only be found in the wild in the DRC. It’s a long way to the park from Kinshasa (most fly), but you can see bonobos in the semi wild just a short drive from the capital at the Chutes de Lukaya sanctuary and orphanage. Here you can spend
Kinshasa cuisine
The Congolese love their food. The city’s cuisine is a mix of traditional local dishes along with Indian, Chinese, French and other European influences. A big favourite is pondu, which involves mashing up cassava leaves with meat or fish and plenty of garlic, onion and spices. It is often eaten as a soup or with a starchy side such as rice or plantain, but many Kinois wolf it down in a sandwich as a carb-loaded lunch to fuel their day. Cassava crops up in another popular local dish, chikwangue. Also
time with these supposedly most intelligent and peaceful of the great apes, take a boat ride or even a dip in the lake. For more animal adventures close to the city try the Les Serpents du Congo. The snake park handles some of the world’s rarest and deadliest snakes. Many, such as the huge and long-fanged Gaboon viper, are found wild in the DRC so the snake park has a vital role as the only supplier of life-saving anti-venom in the country.
known as ‘cassava bread’, it is made by steaming a roll of cassava dough wrapped in large leaves and is used to mop up stews and soups. A tasty easy to enjoy fresh fish caught from the Congo is maboke. Here banana leaves are used as a natural pocket to steam the fish with coconut milk, onions and spices. Gombe, the diplomatic and economic heart of Kinshasa, is a great area to explore for the best restaurants serving local cuisine.
Congolese mutton stew
Sauti za Busara festival
SAUTI ZA BUSARA
Since it launched in 2003, Zanzibar’s Sauti za Busara has grown into one of the premier music festivals in Africa. With this year’s star-studded event over and out, Busara Promotions managing director Lorenz Herrmann looks back on his favourite moments and reveals how future editions will continue to represent the diversity and development of music on the continent.
Photo by Michaela Sovkova
QYou took over as managing director of Busara Promotions, the NGO behind Sauti za Busara in 2023. What has been your focus?
Sauti za Busara is and has been the flagship for live music events in East Africa for over two decades now, my focus as the new managing director of the NGO which is running the festival, centres mainly around enhancing its financial stability, fostering long-term partnerships, digitalising internal and external processes, further team training and technical trainings as well as strengthening the partnerships with the international festival networks.
Q: The first Sauti za Busara took place in 2003. How has the event has changed in scale since then?
Sauti za Busara began as a gathering
Sauti za Busara began as a gathering of around 4,000 people. It has grown into one of Africa’s premier music festivals and draws more than 20,000 attendees across the three days.
of around 4,000 people and one stage. It has grown into one of Africa’s premier music festivals and draws more than 20,000 attendees across the three days showcasing live music from all over the continent across four stages.
Q: What initially brought you to Zanzibar?
I am a musician, music manager and cultural entrepreneur. I started off as a rapper and singer with a local dub sound system crew in Germany. I moved to Berlin at age 21 and was one of the founders of ‘Zwischenraum’ or ‘In-Between-Spaces’ Festival, which aimed to bring together the wide range of cultures present in the city. At this time I was taking a degree at the Humboldt University of Berlin with a focus on East Africa. Studying Swahili was part of the course. The first year I was more focused on the students' strike we lead with older members of the faculty, and Swahili learning progress was rather slow. However,
(Above) Managing director of Busara Promotions Lorenz Herrmann
Photo by Masoud Khamis
Photo by
Photo by Aclovious Benedicto
Photo by
after a three-month backpacking trip with a good friend of mine who excelled at Swahili I progressed and started to really enjoy the language. That’s when I applied for an exchange year with the University of Dar es Salaam.
While in Dar I met G-Solo, one of the early rap-legends and owner of Kama Kawa Records. We became friends and he convinced me to start rapping in Swahili and help him rebuild his studio. I recorded a song I had written about riding on dala dalas ['Shika Bomba'] and it went viral, making the top 10 of the East Africa Radio and TV charts for two weeks.
I returned to Germany to finish my degree as I wasn’t ready to fully immerse into the fake-fancy lifestyle of the pop-entertainment world. My Tanzanian friends stayed in touch and soon convinced me to come visit them in Zanzibar for the 2015 Sauti za Busara Festival. We got a stall where we sold cocktails there and made
enough money to buy equipment and start our own studio – Stone Town Records. I’ve always wanted to study music and play more trombone, which I had started learning in my time in Dar and Berlin, so in 2016 decided to take a course at the Dhow Countries Music Academy under the late Mitchell Strumpf, where I became the first international student to study for a degree there. The course was entirely in Swahili. At that time I recognised the need for stronger support for artists and creative entrepreneurs on the island, and set up Creative Education and Empowerment Zanzibar (CEEZ), an organisation that helps give local artists a financial support network by channelling funds from international donors to creative and cultural projects.
In 2018 I became the marketing manager for CPS, the developer behind new urban living experience Fumba Town. Managing big budgets and seeing this huge project come
together increased my vision for the bigger picture – something that has proved of great service in the mission to make Busara more sustainable. I did that for three years, before starting to solely focus on music management and CEEZ again. When the Busara position was posted in 2023, I applied amongst 60 other applicants from across the continent. I believe I made the cut due to my strong intersectional skills, regional experience and reputation.
Q: Can you give us an idea of the logistics involved in hosting the annual three-day festival?
We have a near all-Tanzanian team running operations. I have to give our founder and former CEO and festival director Yusuf Mahmoud great respect for building a strong, super professional and resilient team over the past 20 years. We have 15 team leaders managing a total crew of 230 people. The building of the stages begins four weeks before the festival starts. We bring three five-ton trucks full of sound and lighting equipment from Dar es Salaam, and similar loads from Zanzibar for stage and other infrastructure builds. We manage around 200 international and 180 local musicians with a fleet of seven shuttle buses carrying artists and guests to and from the festival site.
Q: What are some of your favourite Sauti moments?
Mozambique artist Assa Matusse performs on the Sauti za Busara main stage
Photo by Dhruv Chauhan
Too many to mention, but the Swahili Encounters rehearsals are a magical experience. Seeing ten musicians from different countries and cultural backgrounds collaborate and make music together is something else. I love when our 230 crew members get together on Wednesday afternoon for the big briefing. There are lots of familiar faces, jokes, laughter and anticipation of the days to come. I love spending time with our stakeholders, and seeing how they enjoy the festivities. Also special are the moments when artists are backstage after performing. They still carry the energy of the music and crowd they connected with.
Q: This year’s festival had the theme ‘voices of peace’. Why was this chosen?
Too many people are suffering for the sake of a few fighting for political or economic power. We wanted to send a strong signal to the world, and we believe that events like Busara can make a small change by bringing people together and spreading unity and acceptance of diversity.
Q: Among the festival’s special features is its venue – the Old Fort in Zanzibar. Can you explain what the historic setting adds to the event?
The Unesco World Heritage is a unique backdrop to the festival. It is hard to imagine the festival in another location - the stories and meanings are woven together, and
Busara is an integral part of Stone Town and Zanzibar. Yet, it has been rented out to investors who are planning to build a high-end retail park where our main stage and VIP are usually located. We are not sure what will happen in 2026, but we are. working to ensure Busara can stay in the Old Fort and in Zanzibar.
Q: Who chooses the acts for each year’s festival? What are the criteria that influences those choices? We open the call for artists each year from April 1 to July 31. Last year we had 486 applications from 66 different countries. A jury of seasoned music professionals sits each year to look at each and every application to filter out the best upcoming and established musicians to be featured at the festival.
Q: How important is it to you that the event represents music from across Africa?
It is in the core of Busara to represent a vast diversity of cultures and backgrounds – from the more traditional to innovative and progressive sounds with positive messages. Most important is that their music is rooted in their heritage and performed live.
Q: How do you feel the event benefits Stone Town and Zanzibar as a whole?
In 2015 an independent researcher from the US calculated the festival has an estimated economic impact of US$ 10 million on the economy of Zanzibar. This probably equates to US$ 20 million today. Many shopkeepers, taxi drivers, and other local businesses make enough money during Sauti za Busara to sustain themselves throughout the period of Ramadhan and the long rains. During the week of the festival all hotels are booked out and the town is buzzing.
Q: How important to you that Zanzibari and Tanzanians feel a pride and a connection to the event?
The goal of Sauti Za Busara has always been to create a festival that truly resonates with the local community and reflects their identity. While it was initially challenging to help them feel included, over the years we've seen a shift. Not only do they now embrace the festival and attend in large numbers, but they also take pride in being a part of it.
/ Sauti za Busara festival
South African band UKhoiKhoi brought their indigenous electro to the 2025 Sauti za Busara festival
Photo by Dhruv Chauhan
Photo by Michaela Sovkova
‘When we sing it feels like our hearts open like a blooming rose’
Women have long been limited to a supporting role in the music of Tanzania’s Wagogo people. However, Pendo and Leah Zawose have changed all that with an internationally successful album and tour. Mark Edwards meets The Zawose Queens.
The music of Pendo and Leah Zawose – known collectively as The Zawose Queens – represents an unprecedented break with the conventions of Tanzania’s most famous musical family.
The success of the cousins’ 2024 debut album, ‘Maisha’, followed by performances at high-profiles music festivals such as Sauti za Busara in Zanzibar and Glastonbury in the UK, represents the first time that women of the Zawose family have grabbed the spotlight.
Pendo and Leah are, respectively the daughter and granddaughter of the late Dr Hukwe Zawose, a protégé of Tanzania’s founding president Julius Nyerere and a trailblazer for traditional Wagogo music in Tanzania and across the world.
Hukwe had seven wives and 17 children. As patriarch of ‘Zawose village’, a multi-generational commune in coastal Bagamoyo, he encouraged his huge progeny to pursue music, but there was a strict gender divide in the skills that were passed on. The men led the polyphonic singing and were taught to build and play traditional instruments such as the illimba thumb piano and the chizeze four-string fiddle. The women could only aspire to be backing singers or be part of the ‘muheme’ drumming ritual. Pendo became part of her father’s band at the age of 14, but her role remained limited. Leaha grew up
in Dar es Salaam 75 km south of Bagamoyo with her musician father Ndahani Bwani Zawose (popularly known as Baba Leah) torn between sharing his skills with his daughter – who was desperate to learn –and respecting the traditions of the tribe. “My father worked as a prison warden, but he also played the chizeze and marimba. These instruments were so fascinating to me. I would sit near him just to listen to him play.
“However, it was challenging. Parents and elders often said that women shouldn’t play those instruments as it was believed that
Photo by Rashde
Fidigo
Michael Mbwambo
McShady @mcshady41
menstruation could affect their tune. I would wait until my father went out, then secretly practice with his marimba, which often got me into trouble. Later, my father became my musical teacher, sharing new tunes and training me. Many family members and neighbours discouraged me, but I refused to give up.”
Leah’s desire to perform continued to make waves when her family moved to Zawose Village after her father retired. Still a child, she crashed a performance given by the clan for a group of visiting Japanese tourists. “It turned into chaos. They told me to get off the stage, but they couldn’t get rid of me. I was reprimanded, but that moment marked the beginning of my musical journey.”
Over the coming years, Pendo and Leah honed their musical skills, often surreptitiously. After the death of Dr Hukwe in 2003, Pendo became part of The Zawose Family, a group that showcased a new generation of talent.
The seeds of The Zawose Queens were sown in 2019. Pendo and Leah were among the artists taking part in a songwriting workshop in Dar es Salaam organised by the British Council. Other attendees included UK-based producers Oli BartonWood and Tom Excell, who raised
the idea of collaborating on some original material. Leah says: “They were fascinated by our music. At that time, we were only using our family’s songs, we didn’t have any of our own. We discussed recording, and we went away and wrote three original tracks, ‘Safari ya Mziki’, ‘Fahari Yetu’ and ‘Sauti ya Mamas’. They loved them.”
The next meeting was in Zanzibar where these first songs were recorded. One of them – ‘Fahari Yetu’ – was captured live on the rooftop of a Zanzibari hotel and features Pendo and Leah’s hypnotic illimba playing with each note like a plump rain drop hitting the ground. Soon, the pair had written enough songs for an album with the remaining tracks recorded in Bagamoyo with Barton-Wood and Excell continuing the spontaneous vibe with recording sessions set up on a local beach.
Despite never having written music for the greater Zawose family collective, Pendo and Leah have proved prolific and talented songwriters for their debut with a credit on every track. ‘Maisha’ means ‘life’ in Kigogo and Pendo says the album’s lyrical themes embrace the everyday. “The content of our songs is inspired by life itself. We consider themes like hustling, love, family, and be inspired by our neighbours who surround us.”
The album also showcases the Queens’ playing skills. There is virtuoso illimba across the album while the song ‘Muheme’ is propelled by Pendo’s shakes of a kayamba rattle and Leah’s pounding of ngome drums – a percussive rhythm so thrilling that all involved break into whoops of joy at its climax.
That sense of exultation is also evident when the Queens sing. Their voices – one high, one
Photo by
Photo by Rashde Fidigo
The seeds of The Zawose Queens were sown in 2019. Pendo and Leah were among the artists taking part in a songwriting workshop in Dar es Salaam organised by the British Council.
son Julian, who was also on the bill. “For us, it was a significant step forward. We realised it was a huge opportunity for us to grow and take part in even bigger festivals, continuing to do great things.”
Work on a new album is already under way. Pendo teases it will be “bigger and better” than ‘Maisha’ and will even feature some rapping. Such interweaving of traditional and modern music forms is nothing new for the Zawose Queens. Throughout ‘Maisha’ traditional instrumentation is paired with Barton-Wood and Tom Excell’s electronic beats and loops. “Mixing traditional sounds with modern electronics creates great music,” says Leah.
Should anyone think, the pair have abandoned their roots, she adds: “Our traditional music is still there; it has simply been elevated.” For the Queens, their music is evolution, not revolution.
low – combine in the ‘chilumi’ polyphonic style the Wagogo are renowned for. They seem to be relishing being heard. For Pendo, to sing is to be overtaken by positive energy. “You can have many thoughts and stresses from everyday life, but when you sing, something takes over and makes you feel happy. You sing with joy. For us, singing is a source of happiness, and it feels like our hearts open like a blooming rose.”
Released on Real World Records – the label that has spread the international word on Wagogo music since Dr Hukwe’s heyday –‘Maisha’ proved an immediate hit in Europe. For Pendo it was validation. She knew they had made “something beautiful”. The success led to high profile live shows at home in Tanzania and abroad. A particular highlight was Glastonbury in June 2024 when Pendo and Leah were very excited to meet Bob Marley’s
Listen to ‘Maisha’ and you’ll hear multiple songs celebrating Wagogo traditions and sharing pride in its music and family connections. Two tracks on the album feature the masterful chizeze playing of Leah’s father, a former bandmate to Dr Hukwe. This is music that bridges the past and the future.
Baba Leah is not the only tribal elder that has given his blessing to the Zawose queens. Pendo says: “We haven’t received any negative energy from our family. They listen to our songs, and thought: ‘Wow, these women are capable.’ No-one has discouraged us. Our parents are really happy to see their children reaching new heights and accepting that music is in our hearts and that we love it. It’s often been the case that, during performances, everyone would speak to the men and ignore the women. But we’ve managed to make a name for ourselves.”
To stream or buy ‘Maisha’, visit www.thezawosequeens. bandcamp.com
Photo by Aclovious Benedicto
SEVEN REASONS TO VISIT
KARIBUKILIFAIR
From June 6 to June 8 the Magereza Ground in Arusha will be taken over by Karibu-Kilifair, East Africa’s largest tourism expo. Here’s why you should be among the crowds of visitors.
1. It is the ultimate networking experience The event is a prime opportunity to connect with businesses within the East African tourist industry such as hotels, lodges, tourist boards, and tour operators.
2. This year’s event is bigger than ever With more than 500 registered tourism exhibitors from 15 countries, 15,000 trade visitors, 700-international travel agents and an increased area of 40,000 sq m, KaribuKilifair is setting records.
3. It’s full of ideas for your next holiday adventure
Stuck for where to visit next in East Africa?
Karibu-Kilifair has the hotels, lodges, and tour companies to help plan your next trip.
4. Fun for all the family Bring the kids. They will love the 1000 sqm playground, entertainment
on stage and the huge on-site fun fair as well as the music and dance performances.
5. Meet the experts Seminars are also part of the event, with experts discussing hot topics and offering valuable knowledge and insights into the tourism industry.
6. Explore Arusha Extend your visit to Karibu-Kilifair by exploring Arusha. Tanzania’s safari capital is the launchpad for many of the country’s world-famous wildlife adventures, beginning just a short drive from the city at Arusha National Park.
7. Shop for authentic souvenirs
Local artisans will be among the stallholders at the event. Visitors will have the chance to buy gifts handcrafted using traditional techniques passed down through generations.
Visitor tickets are available to purchase at the event
• One-day ticket - 10,000 tsh
• Three-day pass - 25,000 tsh (a saving of 30%)
• Children over 12 - 5,000 tsh
• Free entry for children under the age of six
A DEEPER DIVE INTO DAR ES SALAAM
Spending more time in one of Africa’s most exciting cities reveals its depth of attractions. We scratch beneath the surface for the Dar the locals know.
Music
Music is everywhere in Dar es Salaam. Afrobeats and Bongo Flava – a Tanzanian twist on hip-hop and r’n’b – pulse from cars and bars while the strip of nightclubs on the busy Haile Selassie Road get everyone dancing to the latest tracks. However, if you want to get a flavour of the diversity of music the city produces and
hear it played live by the artists themselves, there are other venues to seek out. Cultural centre L’Alliance Francaise is tucked way behind the golf course in the heart of the city. Every Wednesday it runs the Jumatano Groove live music nights –Jumatano means ‘Wednesday’ in Swahili – which sees upcoming local artists take the stage. Across town in Mikocheni, Nafasi Arts
Space hosts regular live shows with music ranging from traditional taarab – a Swahili music genre that can be traced back to the early 19th century – to singeli, the frenetic DIY dance genre born on the streets of Dar. Nafasi also hosts the annual two-day arts festival Wikiendi Live that features musical acts from Tanzania and beyond. This year’s event takes place on September 26 and 27.
Markets
The airbrushed shopping experience of tourist-targeted centres such as the Slipway and Milimani City Mall has its place, but there are other down-toearth options that get closer to the rapidly beating heart of Dar. Chief among them is the colossal Kariakoo Market, where you can bargain for just about everything you need –from stacks of fresh fruit, vegetables and pieces to household essentials. Its sprawling size can be intimidating at first, but the more you’ll visit you’ll become familiar with its layout. For example, the area between the Livingstone Hotel and Lumumba Garden Hotel is where you’ll find most of the mitumba – second-hand clothing – stalls. It pays to arrive early and get access to the freshest produce. You’ll need to set your alarm clock even earlier for the Kivukoni fish market as boats arrive laden with their overnight catch at daybreak. Then the selling starts with eager customers including representatives from some of Dar’s biggest hotels and restaurants on the look-out for the best fish and seafood for their menus. A far calmer market experience is available on the last Saturday of every month when the Swahili Farmers’ Market takes over the courtyard of the Oysterbay Shopping Centre. You’ll find organic produce from farms across Tanzania as well as hand-baked bread, and local honey and coffee.
Film
There are a handful of multiplex cinemas in Dar es Salaam. They predominantly screen blockbuster movies from Europe, the US and India. Most are screened in their original language with Swahili subtitles. However, the Tanzanian film industry is growing and recently there have been a few domestic releases – such as ‘Binti’ and last year’s ‘The Christmas Run’ – that have been released on the big screen. Tickets cost TSH 5,000 (US$ 2) Monday to Thursday with the price doubling from Friday into the weekend. Multiplexes are just
the visible tip of the cinematic iceberg in Dar. For a true local movie experience, head to one of the hundreds of video bandas. These small, informal cinemas – little more than a few rows of chairs and a boxy old television – screen DVDs of foreign films with a dubbed Swahili ‘commentary’ rather than translation. Sometimes the commentary is provided live by a DJ who interacts
with the crowd. The result is a cross between going to the cinema and a stand-up comedy gig. Don’t miss.
Sport
Tanzanians love their football and Dar es Salaam is home to some of the mostly hotly contested matches in Tanzanian Premier League. Two of the league’s best
Photo by Anton Yulikov / Shutterstock.com
You’ll
need to set your alarm clock even earlier for the Kivukoni fish market as boats arrive laden with their overnight catch at daybreak.
performing clubs, Simba and Young Africans, both hail from Dar neighbourhood Kariakoo. When the two teams play each other in what has become known as the ‘Dar derby’, the city is transfixed. Getting a ticket to the game is the gateway to one of Dar’s most unforgettable sporting experiences.
Beaches
Coco Beach is coastal city Dar’s 24/7 oceanside hotspot. By day its food shacks and beach football pitches draw the crowds while its nightclubs shake the sands deep into the night. However, those familiar with Dar know it has many more beaches that offer a more secluded and serene experience. Around 9km south of the city is the flawless stretch of sand that is Kigomboni Beach. If you’re travelling north check out Mbezi Beach. It is a great place to kick back, enjoy water sports and soak up the sun. A little further north is Bahari beach, a soothing spot next to a fishing village. Here you can end the day with some fresh seafood grilled before you at a beach barbecue.
Running is also popular here with the wealth of beaches becoming jogging tracks, especially at low tide in the cool mornings. Jogging clubs can be a great motivator, provide security for those intimidated by running alone and are a great way to meet new people. The Runners Club in Dar is
the biggest of its kind in Tanzania. Get in touch @runnerstanzania on Instagram.
The global rise in padel tennis and pickleball has hit Dar. The Racket Sports Club has two venues in the capital – in Masaki and Ghana Street in the city centre. The clubs have memberships, but non-members can book courts and play at a slightly higher price.
Photo
NAIROBI GETS MESMERISING NEW MUSEUM
Ilove exploring museums. They allow us to travel through time and explore different periods, cultures, and civilizations. In addition, museums have the power to make us feel connected to something greater than ourselves, whether it’s the shared human experience of art, the collective effort of scientific discovery, or the triumphs and tragedies of history.
The recently opened Museum of Illusions in Nairobi is not a traditional museum. It is part of a global edutainment franchise and the third and largest to be built in Africa. The venue in Laxcon Court and Plaza, in the Parklands neighbourhood, joins a global network of over 50 locations, including iconic cities such as New York, Las Vegas, Paris, Istanbul, Madrid, Dubai, and South Africa. This
The Museum of Illusions opened in January this year as the largest ‘edutainment’ venue of its kind in Africa. Harriet James was among the first visitors to explore its mind-bending exhibits.
new addition boasts more than 60 mind-bending exhibits that offer a captivating mix of optical illusions, immersive rooms, holograms, and stereograms for all ages.
One thing I loved immediately was that I could take photos everywhere. I took advantage. I started snapping in the Infinity Room and was able to capture images of different versions
of me. It felt like stepping into an entirely different dimension. I was surrounded by mirrors on every surface; on the ceiling, floors and walls and looking at it created an illusion that the space extends endlessly in all directions. I couldn’t tell where the room began or ended.
This is a museum are similar in that they both invite you to step outside the conventional understanding and embrace a world that isn’t always the same.
The next section I explored was the coning table which was a mix of curiosity and mild disorientation. As I approached the table, it appeared as if the table was dangerously titled at a steep angle. The design and layout of the room felt like made my mind feel like it was being tricked and that
One thing I loved immediately was that I could take photos everywhere. I took advantage. I started snapping in the Infinity Room and was able to capture images of different versions of me.
at any time I would slide off as I sat down. To compensate for the sliding feel, I leaned on one side and finally had my mind balance. Though fun, it’s a dizzying experience.
Another room that was fascinating is the Ames Room. It looks like a normal rectangular room, but it is actually distorted in shape. You’ll notice this when you stand in different corners of the room and notice that your size is changing dramatically despite the fact that everyone is standing at the same distance from the camera.
When it felt like the tour was over, my guide took me to the next room dubbed the ‘Head on a Platter’. It is a quirky and eerie experience. As you step into the room, a large platter is seen ahead positioned in such a way that it seems like your head is placed right on it, as if you're part of some strange banquet. But behind the scenes, the trick is just in the perspective and the strategic placement of mirrors, which create a visual illusion that your head appears isolated and detached, sitting in the centre of the platter. I loved how many photos came out playing with the illusions.
Downstairs, I explored the ‘Matatu Room’, that reflected the colourful
and intricate designs commonly seen on the public transport system in Kenya. The room uses optical illusions and distorted perspectives to reflect the flamboyant nature of the iconic minibuses.
Next was the ‘Colour Room,’ an immersive and captivating space designed to challenge how we perceive colours. As I stepped into this room, I was surrounded by vibrant, shifting colours that seemed to change depending on my perspective. The walls, lighting, and objects in the room created an ambience that played with my brain’s perception of colour. It was amazing to discover how easily our senses can be tricked.
The experience was both visually stimulating and thought-provoking, offering a reminder that our perception of colour can be deeply influenced by the environment around us.
The last space to explore was the Vortex Tunnel. This cylindrical passageway is seriously disorientating. Although the walkway remains completely still, the surrounding environment gives the sensation of spinning, tricking your brain into thinking you're moving. Like the rest of the museum, it’s a fun yet bewildering experience.
Opening hours Monday to Wednesday, 10am to 8pm; Thursday to Sunday10am to 9pm. Tickets are available through the official website: museumofillusionsnairobi.co.ke
ADVENTURES FOR
THRILL- -SEEKERS THRILL
Want to take a classic East African safari up a notch? Consider adding an extreme sport to your itinerary. From skydiving in Zanzibar to paragliding off Mount Kilimanjaro, Ellen Ree Pashley has some ideas to add an adrenaline spike to your adventure.
Paragliding
If climbing Africa’s highest mountain doesn’t sound extreme enough for you, consider adding a paragliding adventure off Kilimanjaro, at a breathtaking altitude of 5,765 metres.
This adventure, offered by Altezza Travel, requires trekking the Stella Point summit of Mount Kilimanjaro before take-off. Coming down will be far quicker as you will be paragliding.
According to Tanzania National Parks Authority regulations, all adrenaline-junkies looking to experience this adventure must already have solid paragliding experience under their belt. Gliding off a mountain like Kilimanjaro requires expertise and knowing how to manoeuvre around the tropical rainforest for a safe landing is no easy feat.
Altezza Travel values safety above all else, so they vet every application for paragliding before applying for the necessary permits. Once that’s done, they handle all the other details, including experienced guides, camping equipment and the Kilimanjaro trek itself.
Weather conditions play a huge role in paragliding, as the wind needs to be just right and the skies need
Skydiving
If you’re seeking the ultimate adrenaline rush, don’t just dive into the Indian Ocean, skydive into it. It might just be the most incredible 45 seconds of your life! Skydive Zanzibar offers the opportunity to jump out of an airplane at 10,000 ft, above the white sand beaches and warm ocean waters of Nungwi on the northern coast of Zanzibar’s main island.
First-time jumpers have two options; a tandem jump with an instructor or to take a full-day Accelerated Free Fall Course and conduct their first ‘solo’ jump with the assistance of two instructors.
The tandem jump includes a safety briefing, a 20-minute flight from Kendwa to the aerial drop-site, and video footage of your jump you get to keep. The Accelerate Free Fall Course requires a full day, but you leave with a certificate and your first solo jump under your belt.
Safety is paramount. Skydive Zanzibar’s experienced team of experts are all certified skydiving instructors affiliated with the US Parachute Association and have been jumping out of airplanes for the past two decades.
to be clear. Athletes may need to give themselves an additional two-to-three days on the mountain to ensure perfect weather for paragliding. Participants may expect to spend these extra days at either Barafu Camp or Kosovo Camp, which means they will be even more adapted to the high altitude when it comes time to sprint as fast as they can for take-off.
Rock climbing
Hell’s Gate National Park is just a twohour drive from Nairobi. With its dramatic cliffs and deep gorges, this national park is an adventurer’s playground.
The park has climbable routes just 10 minutes from the entry gate. You will enjoy scenery so epic it has been featured in Hollywood films and wild animals such as giraffe, buffalo and zebra will look on as you tackle climbs that range from beginner-level to more advanced at Fischer’s Cliff and Fischer’s Tower.
Mountain biking
Instead of a typical game drive through Arusha National Park, consider a cycling safari. Pedal past herds of zebras and gazelles and slow down to watch giraffes – there are more of them than any other park in Tanzania.
The park also contains Mount Meru, a dormant volcano that is Tanzania’s second highest peak. Meru offers
some epic runs through stunning forests on the Mbega Route. Cyclists can speed in some areas, but on other parts of the trail it’s advised to slow down and look for colobus monkeys and blue turacos.
If that doesn’t sound extreme enough, remember there are a few leopards and plenty of buffalo in Arusha National Park so cyclists will be accompanied by a ranger for this
ride. A typical cycling safari within the park covers 22 kms (13 miles), but the distance and direction of the route is totally flexible. Head for the mountain trails, if you want.
If you’re a bike enthusiast, Legacy Exchange Outfitters offers several cycling adventures, including an all-day cycling safari or a 10-day cycling adventure touching parks in the Northern Circuit.
The best climbing expeditions are offered by Blue Sky Kenya, which also boasts the only indoor climbing facility in East Africa – located in the Parklands area of Nairobi. Its private expeditions and planned group tours include all equipment needed for safe rock climbing adventures; shoes, harnesses, helmets and more.
What’s more, their experienced guides set up all climbs. Debutants will be able to ascend by sport climbing in which the rope is already set up at the top of the climb for ease and safety.
You will enjoy scenery so epic it has been featured in Hollywood films and wild animals such as giraffe, buffalo and zebra will look on as you tackle climbs.
Where to start:
SKYDIVING:
https://www.skydive-zanzibar.com/
Tandem Jump starts from: $365 per person
PARAGLIDING:
https://altezzatravel.com/
Cost determined by group size and includes a full Kilimanjaro Climb.
TANAPA regulations recommend paragliders have 200 logged flights prior.
ROCK CLIMBING:
https://www.blueskykenya.org/
Upcoming expeditions: 30 August 2025.
Private climbs available upon request.
MOUNTAIN BIKING:
https://legacyexchangeoutfitters.com/
Cost determined by group size, includes park entry fees, guides and ranger.
TTO ENTER: Simply email a photo of yourself holding this issue of Twiga while on your Air Tanzania flight to competition@landmarine.org by 13 June 2025 for your chance to win! This competition does not include flights to Zanzibar.
Congratulations to Anne Chipeta who win's a one-night stay for two at Johari Rotana, Dar es Salaam.
Cooking with Belinda Mkony
A FISH DISH THAT IS ‘A WARM HUG OF GOODNESS’
Twiga cookery columnist Belinda Mkony is back with her recipe for poached tilapia fillet in coconut milk. It’s a no-fuss and nourishing dish ideal for a weekday meal.
This poached tilapia in coconut milk is a rich, creamy, and flavourful dish that’s perfect for seafood lovers. It’s low-carb, keto-friendly, and completely dairy-free, making it a nourishing choice for a satisfying meal. The tender, flaky fish absorbs the fragrant coconut milk and spices, creating a perfectly balanced dish with just the right amount of heat.
Quick and easy to prepare, this recipe uses simple, accessible ingredients to bring out the best in mild white fish. With the right cooking method, you’ll achieve a juicy, tender fillet every time.
Pair it with coconut rice, cauliflower rice, broccoli rice, or your favourite vegetable side for a comforting and delicious meal.
POACHED TILAPIA FILLET IN
COCONUT MILK
Ingredients
• 1 tablespoon (tbsp) olive oil
• 1 diced white onion
• 2 cloves garlic, crushed
• 2 teaspoons (tsp) fresh grated ginger
• 1 tsp diced lemongrass
• Half tsp of chilli oil
• 1 tbsp coconut milk/coconut cream
• One-and-a-half tsp fish sauce
• Half tsp of sugar
• Half tsp cayenne pepper
• Tilapia (three to four fillets)
• Juice of 1 lime
• Toppings of choice like chilli flakes, cilantro, or fresh basil
Method
• In a large pan (use one with a lid), heat the oil over medium heat.
• Add the diced onion, diced lemon grass, and grated ginger to a food processor and blitz to a paste.
• Stir in your paste and cook for about five minutes, stirring occasionally.
• Add ground cayenne and red pepper flakes and cook for 30 seconds.
• Add the coconut milk, fish sauce, and sugar.
• Stir, turn the heat to medium low, and let the milk heat until it simmers.
• Season the tilapia with the salt and pepper, then add it to the coconut
milk. Reduce the heat to medium-low.
• Cover the pan with the lid and cook for about three-to-four minutes, then flip the fish. Cover and cook for another two-to-three minutes or until the fish fillets are cooked through.
• Remove from heat.
• Add the lime juice. Taste the broth and add salt and pepper, if needed.
• Serve in a bowl on its own with your garnishes of choice (I like lots of fresh cilantro or fresh Thai basil) or dish it over coconut rice.
• This recipe is a warm hug of goodness. Enjoy.
FOLLOW BELINDA
To keep up with her latest recipes and events, visit Fork.Ur.Munchies on Instagram
THE LOWDOWN ON
LUSAKA
Most travellers to Zambia head for Victoria Falls and the country's incredible National Parks without giving Lusaka a second thought.
Sarah Kingdom shares why it’s worth digging a little deeper into the capital.
Lusaka lowdown
Lusaka, Zambia’s largest city and one of the fastest-developing cities in southern Africa, can be a chaotic experience for first-time visitors unfamiliar with its mishmash of neighbourhoods and bustling markets. However, visitors who take time to immerse themselves in daily life, will find it incredibly rich and rewarding. Here are some ideas to get you started.
LOCAL MARKETS
Lusaka is known for its vibrant market culture, where thousands of stalls are spread throughout the city. These stalls offer a diverse range of services and products, including hairdressing, restaurants, motor vehicle spare parts, fruits, fish, and household goods.
One of the most popular types of stalls is the Salaula, which sells second-hand clothing. The name 'salaula' comes from Bemba, the lingua franca spoken by 18 tribes across Zambia, meaning 'select from the pile,' and it reflects the way shoppers engage with the merchandise. At these stalls, potential buyers rummage through mounds of clothing to find items they fancy.
Lusaka City Market is the largest market in the city with
Lusaka City Market is the largest market in the city with more than 400 stalls. Despite its bustle, tourists don’t typically feel hassled here.
more than 400 stalls. Despite its bustle, tourists don’t typically feel hassled here. A visit here is a great way to immerse oneself in local culture.
If the local markets feel overwhelming and you’re in town on a weekend, consider visiting the Sunday Craft Market located in the car park at Arcades Shopping Mall. It’s a great spot for finding crafts, handmade souvenirs and gifts. Don’t hesitate to negotiate, as bargaining over the price of goods is encouraged.
Nearby is Agora Village, an up-and-coming lifestyle mall. Within it, you’ll find the Lusaka Collective which is more than just a shop. It represents a story of opportunity, collaboration, and empowerment. The Collective is dedicated to supporting small local businesses and working
/ Lusaka
Photo by Bernard Mwape _ Shutterstock.com
Photo by africa924 _ Shutterstock.com
with grassroots artisans and independent makers, the majority of whom are women. They offer a variety of products for sale, including ceramics, textiles, woven baskets, artwork, and jewellery, all proudly made in Zambia. 75% of sales proceeds go directly back to the producers.
Next door is Imvelo, a recently opened gallery and coffee shop that promotes Zambian art and organic, locally grown coffee. It’s definitely worth stopping by.
THE TOWNSHIP
If you are looking for a ‘no filter’ Zambian experience, consider signing up for a tour of Bauleni Compound with In&Out of the Ghetto (www.inandoutoftheghetto.org). In&Out is a small, non-profit organisation based in Bauleni Compound, whose aim is to empower and encourage local youth to take an active role in community development and their community. They offer a two-hour walking tour that provides genuine insights into the historical, cultural, and social background of a traditional Zambian compound. The itinerary includes visits to local markets, a clinic, a school, a community centre, and the popular local bar and nightlife area. This tour is more than just sightseeing; it presents a respectful approach to understanding the realities of life in the compound and aims to raise awareness of everyday living conditions. The proceeds from the tours support In&Out’s various community projects.
WILDLIFE
Just 30 km from the city centre, Lusaka National Park is Zambia’s newest and smallest National Park. The park is home to a variety of wildlife in the park including giraffe, eland, zebra, sable, and blue wildebeest. Inside the park, you’ll also find the Game Rangers International Wildlife Discovery Centre. This centre provides free conservation education for school children and houses the Elephant Nursery (www.gamerangersinternational.org/wildlife-rescue), where orphaned elephants, rescued from around the country are rehabilitated before being reintegrated
back into the wild. The Wildlife Discovery Centre is open daily, and visitors to the Elephant Nursery can see the orphans during feeding time, which takes place from 11.45 am to 1 pm each day.
ARTS AND CRAFTS
You can learn a great deal about a country through its art. The Lechwe Trust Art Gallery hosts Zambia’s most comprehensive collection of contemporary art with more than 300 works, including paintings, prints, ceramics and sculptures. The gallery also supports local artists by providing them with access to international training and experience.
The beautiful, non-profit 37d Gallery exhibits and sells a wide range of artworks by both Zambian and international artists. The income generated from donations, commissions, sales and exhibitions funds outreach projects for disadvantaged children, as well as various workshops and scholarship programmes.
DRINKS
What better way to finish your time exploring Lusaka than with a sundowner, and what better drink than a Wild Dog Shempa Ale from Zambia’s first craft beer producer, Wild Dog? If beer isn’t your preferred drink, try a gin and tonic made with Zambia’s iconic handcrafted gin, with 21 wild botanicals, including baobab and water berry fruits.
Viewing platform overlooking the watering hole.
Nursery herd with the keeper
EAT LIKE A
ZANZIBARI
The cultural melting pot of Stone Town, Zanzibar’s historic capital, is reflected in its cuisine. To get an authentic flavour of the food that has fuelled life here for centuries it pays to venture beyond the tourist trail.
Lodi Mohammed, founder of culinary tour Eat Like a Zanzibari, reveals why sampling street food reveals the authentic flavours loved by locals.
QOn the Eat Like a Zanzibari website you are described as the ‘unofficial Mayor of Stone Town’. How did you come by that impressive nickname? It starts with my true love for my hometown. I’ve travelled to many parts of the world, but there is nowhere I love to be more than Stone Town. Every corner holds a memory for me. I know the family history of nearly every home. The residents are my brothers and sisters (in some cases, quite literally!). I have four generations of family living behind some of these historical
walls. I love everything about it, and I love everyone in it. People around my neighbourhood have started to call me ‘the Mayor of Stone Town,’ and I’m honoured by the title!
Q: What inspired you to set up the Stone Town food tours? What is the experience you want to share with visitors?
I’m so proud that Stone Town is a place that draws thousands of visitors a year. However, what I’ve seen far too much is the homogenization of the tourist experience. Many shops sell the exact same
Photo by Sun_Shine
Swahili cuisine is flavourful, unique and deeply rooted in culture and rich in tradition
items, most of which are not even from Zanzibar, and many restaurants sell the same foods, often international cuisine that has very limited Zanzibari influence at all. Meanwhile, just outside those doors, locals are still enjoying the most authentic Zanzibari foods in the most authentic Zanzibari way, right there on the steps of Stone Town. For guests to enjoy what’s unique about Stone Town, they need to step away from the restaurants and trinket shops.
Q: How do you think exploring a city’s food scene can reveal about its culture?
I think it can reveal how communal the culture is and how eating is considered a social and fun experience!
Q: How would you describe Swahili cuisine?
It’s flavourful and unique, deeply rooted in culture and rich in tradition. It’s a fusion of so many different types of cuisine from many parts of the world – Middle East, India, mainland Tanzania. Each influence contains a story from Zanzibar’s fascinating history.
Q: Why is your focus on the
town’s street food rather than its restaurants?
In a small and tightly woven town like Stone Town, street food is the local scene. We have many lovely restaurants in Stone Town, but most of them are cater directly to tourists, meaning the cuisine has been “globalised” and tweaked to international tastes. For the authentic flavours loved by locals, street food is the way to go.
Q: You organise morning and evening tours. What food and drink do typical Zanzibaris start their day with?
The day must be started with tea, usually a deliciously spiced variety, and most quintessentially paired with a hot loaf of bread that is unique to Stone Town. Book a tour to learn what it is and how it’s made!
Q: Is food a communal experience in Zanzibar and is there a chance for tour visitors to interact with locals on the tour?
Food is always a communal experience! ‘Street food’ here is literally that. Guests on the tour will enjoy each stop on the “barazas” or “stoops” of Stone Town, together
passers-by with whoever else from the neighbourhood has stopped by for a treat.
Q: What are some of your Swahili street food favourites?
My favourite is probably uji, which is a local porridge, usually made with coconut milk. There are so many varieties, enjoyed in different ways at different times.
Q: Have you learnt something new about the food scene here since you started the tours?
What I’ve learned is more like validation in the uniqueness and enjoyability of the Zanzibari street food culture. The guests always love it!
Q: Are the tours kid-friendly? Is there a chance for young guest to try the ubuyu (candied baobab seeds) that is so popular in Zanzibar?
Tours are kid-friendly, but most fun for kids who are open to trying new foods. Ubuyu is a must-stop!
Q: Can vegans and vegetarians also enjoy the tour? What are the options for them?
Yes, they can! Zanzibari food does not typically use much dairy. Most stops on the tour are inherently vegan/vegetarian with meat as an additional option.
The Eat Like A Zanzibari morning tours run every day from 9.30am to 11.30am. The evening tours run from 6pm to 8pm Monday to Saturday. To book, visit www.eatlikeazanzibari.com
A freshly prepared samosa being folded before frying.
Locals feel left out of Zanzibar’s development
Faysal Alao is a blogger, content creator and runs his own Arusha-based tour company All Day In Africa. In each issue of Twiga he shares his take on life in Tanzania.
Zanzibar!! The name evokes images of white sandy beaches, turquoise waters, and luxury resorts. For years, this island has been a magnet for travellers from around the world. It’s a place where international conferences, world-class hotels, and cultural festivals flourish, making it one of the most sought-after destinations in Africa.
However, during my recent month-long stay in Zanzibar, I took the time to engage with locals and what I discovered was eye-opening. While the island thrives as a global tourism hotspot, many of its own people feel left out of the very success happening around them.
For many Zanzibaris, the reality is simple: access comes at a price they can’t afford. From high entrance fees at historical sites to private beaches that restrict entry, many of the island’s gems remain just beyond their reach. While tourism has brought undeniable economic benefits, it has also, in some ways, created a divide, one where locals play host but rarely get to be guests in their own home.
But beyond accessibility, there’s an even bigger issue at play. Many locals feel that while the government is pushing for tourism development - encouraging the construction of luxury hotels, resorts, and high-end markets, it is not investing enough in education.
Without strong educational foundations, many young Zanzibaris find themselves limited to low-paying, domestic roles in the tourism sector, positions in housekeeping, waitstaff, or basic customer service. Meanwhile, high-ranking managerial positions in hotels and major companies are often filled by foreigners.
Zanzibar’s rapid growth as a tourism hub is a success story, but true progress means ensuring that development benefits everyone.
Sound and vision
MUSIC REVIEWS
Mark Edwards rounds up the latest releases to stream, screen and read BO GOGO / Kelvin Momo (feat. Tracy and Thatohatsi)
This single by South African artist Kelvin Momo is one of the highlights from his latest album, Ntsako. The track blends Kelvin’s signature soulful Amapiano style with smooth traditional African melodies. With its enchanting vocals, the song feels like an incantation and possessed of a spiritual depth. The word ‘gogo’ means grandmother in South African culture and Kelvin appears to be calling for the guidance and blessings of his ancestors. Check out this meaningful song.
FILM REVIEWS
CHHAAVA / Directed by Laxman Utekar
This epic Indian Hindilanguage action film is based on the life of Sambhaji Maharaj, the second ruler of the Maratha Empire. News of Shivaji Maharaj death is met with celebration by Aurangzeb, emperor of the rival Mughal Kingdom. However, Shivaji’s son, the valiant lion-wrestling Sambhaji, leads resistance against Aurangzeb’s forces. Amid battles and intrigue, both sides face challenges in a struggle for power. This blockbuster film has become one of the most financially successful Hindi films of all time.
THE ISLAND OF THE LOST / Abdulrazak Gurnah
A new novel by the Nobel Prize-winning Tanzanian author is very exciting news. This 1990s-set coming-of-age tale explores the lives of three young people – Karim, Fauzia, and Badar – as they navigate a period of significant change in Tanzania. A false accusation of theft against Badar forces the trio to confront their true selves and the nature of fate. No-one captures the innocence, excitement and, often heartbreak of youth quite like Gurnah, and his depiction of his native Tanzania is always evocative and compelling. A must-read.
The musical melting pot of Zamrock emerged out of the tumultuous early days of Zambian independence. Its sound fused psychedelic rock from Europe and America with funk-driven African rhythms while the lyrics hinted at the troubled times. Los Angeles–based music imprint No-Again has compiled tracks from some of the genre’s biggest names along with some rarities in this essential album. Stand-out tracks include the garage rock-like stomp of opener ‘Hi Babe’ by Ngozi Family and the power pop of ‘Born Black’ by Chrissy Zebby Rempo, which is draped in lovely layers of fuzz guitar.
RANGER
/ Directed by Austin James Peck
This powerful documentary tells the story of 12 Maasai women who became East Africa’s first all-female anti-poaching unit. The Maasai are a patriarchal tribe in which male courage is venerated, but these women prove their own bravery in undergoing the physical and mental challenges for the new role. We see them train and bond as they prepare to protect endangered species, such as elephants and lions, from poachers in the Laikipia region. All this is done while the women continue with household duties and look after their children. This powerful film reveals both the uniqueness of Maasai society and its universality.
KAIKEYI
/ Vaishnavi Patel
This debut novel is an audacious retelling of the epic Hindu tale Ramayana, written in the first-person point of view of Kaikeyi, Rama’s stepmother. Kaikeyi is often seen as one of the villains of the original so giving her a voice allows for a more nuanced perspective. It helps that Patel is an entertaining writer. In her retelling, the maligned queen fights to carve a place for herself in a society that mistrust ambitious women.
Lilian Hipolyte is the executive director of Dar es Salaam creative community Nafasi Arts Space. In her latest column she reveals how women artists are becoming agents of change through their thoughtprovoking work.
Creativity of Tanzanian artists can fast-track change and challenge outdated ideas
Culture shapes our beliefs about gender, often reinforcing traditional roles. But art has the power to do more than reflect these norms – it can disrupt them. Across the world, artists use creativity to challenge outdated ideas and spark conversations about gender equality. Could art be the bridge to a more just society?
Art reflects both development and oppression, capturing the essence of civilisation. However, it also has the ability to challenge conventional wisdom and push boundaries. This is best demonstrated by Tanzanian visual artist Lilian Munuo’s daring, provocative artwork. By testing physical boundaries and challenging positions that have historically been assigned to men – strong leaders, daring explorers, and unrepentant dreamers –her art subverts stereotypes. In a similar vein, Rehema Chachage uses historical and personal narratives to challenge social norms in her mixed-media installations that examine gender and identity.
The strength and tenacity of Tanzanian women are highlighted in contemporary paintings by artist and curator Gadi Ramadhani. His portrayals of daily life also challenge conventional ideas of gender roles.
Through their art, these artists invite viewers to rethink the limitations placed on women. Unlike debates or policies, art connects with people emotionally, breaking down resistance to change. When a striking mural of empowered women appears in a community, it encourages conversations that might not happen otherwise. Art’s ability to cross cultural and generational divides makes it a universal tool for challenging harmful norms and envisioning a more equal future.
Art is a transformative force rather than merely a mirror of culture. Travellers can observe and support gender equality movements by participating in local art. After all, a more inclusive future can be painted with each brushstroke, song, or performance.
BITING BACK:
the snake clinic saving lives
The Meserani Snake Clinic, just outside Arusha, has saved hundreds of lives and treated thousands more by administering antivenom injections and expert care to snake bite victims. It’s the only clinic of its kind in Tanzania, a country that is home to many of the world’s deadliest snakes. Owner Lynn ‘Ma’ Bale reveals its 32-year story.
If you are bitten by a black mamba, you don’t have much time. The long, slender snake is widely considered the deadliest and most poisonous reptile in the world. Just two drops of its venom from a bite can kill a human.
Your one chance is to get a dose of antivenom – which boosts the body’s immune system against the bite – as fast as possible. The only place that stocks the treatment in Tanzania – a country that is not only home to black mamba, but also venomous snakes such as spitting cobras, boomslangs and
puffadders – is the Meserani Snake Clinic located just outside the city of Arusha in the north of the country.
The clinic was set up by the Bale family in 1993 after they purchased an eight-acre patch of deserted scrubland in the Meserani region and moved there from their home in Durban, South Africa. “We decided on an adventure,” says Lynn Bale.
Over the next 30 years she and her husband, Beresford, set up the clinic, a reptile park, a workshop for vehicle repairs, a campsite for overlander tourists, a Maasai craft centre and
(Above) The deadly black mamba and (right) a young patient is treated at Meserani Snake Clinic
a bar and restaurant. With the site conveniently situated off the A104 Dodoma road that connects Arusha with Tanzania’s wealth of wildlife adventures such as Lake Manyara, Serengeti and Ngorongoro further west, it soon established itself as a popular tourist stop-off.
Beresford died in 2020. The loss hit Lynn hard, but she has continued to keep the site running. The couple first arrived in Meserani with their son Wade, who now work abroad, but Lynn is known by everyone in the community as ‘Ma’. “I treat everyone like they are my children,” she says.
That caring nature is at the heart of the clinic, which dispenses free, potentially life-saving treatment to locals. The idea for the clinic came
from son, who from a young age was obsessed with snakes. “He and his friend used to find and capture them in the wild and keep them as pets in the house,” Lynn says.
The collection of found snakes
Despite the expense of the antivenom, the clinic does not charge for its services
formed the beginnings of the menagerie of reptiles at the Meserani Snake Park, an animal centre that has become a favourite on the Arusha tourist trails and now houses over 70 species of snakes – some of which can be handled by visitors – as well as crocodiles, monitor lizards and tortoises.
DONATIONS
Wade’s other passion is healthcare. He now lives in Oregon in the US where he works as a paramedic. “He and his friends raised money to build the clinic here,” says Lynn. Donations have continued to come in over the years from visitors to the snake park and campsite who are moved to support the vital work carried out here.
The clinic could not survive without the donations. “Antivenom is very expensive,” Lynn says. “Even in 1993 it cost a lot to get a supply. We now source it from India because South Africa is not making it anymore. We also get donations and antivenom from Jonas Nickel [the head of NGO Pflaster für Tansania e.V that supports medical projects in East Africa].”
Despite the expense of the antivenom, the clinic does not charge for its services. The majority of its patients come from the surrounding rural community where money is tight and access to healthcare is limited. “From the moment we opened, when people were bitten, they would come to
The clinic offers treatment free of charge to locals
us for treatment,” Lynn says. “They could not pay, and we could not refuse them so we did it for free. It has continued that way ever since.”
While most people make their own way to the clinic for treatment, Lynn has had instances of patients bitten by black mambas – where every second counts – that were flown into the Meserani site. The impact of the service for the community is huge. Lynn can’t put a figure on the number of patients the clinic has healed since its launch, but when pushed approximates that it runs into the thousands with hundreds owing their lives to its treatments.
I get to see some of those patients on a speculative visit to Meserani. It’s a dark evening in early December – low season in Tanzania tourism terms – and the campsite is empty. Everyone appears to have turned in for the night. However, a mechanic tinkering with a 4x4 in the workshop greets us and heads to the house to notify Lynn of our presence.
Lynn soon arrives and opens up the bar for us to chat. It’s quite a place. Sawdust is spread on the
Nearly everyone should survive a snake bite if they have the right antidote and care
floor and the walls and ceiling are adorned with banknotes from all over the world – an indication of the international crowd that passes through here.
The bar has obviously hosted some raucous nights over the years, but this evening it’s just the three of us. Lynn shares the site’s three-decade story and then walks us to the clinic.
MEDICAL TEAM
It is basic, but clean with two rooms each holding three beds for patients and two treatment rooms. There is a nurse on duty. “We have a team of two nurses and doctors on call,” Lynn says.
Each bed in the treatment rooms is occupied. All but one of the six patients are children with a couple that look to be aged under five. This is normal, Lynn tells me. Young children have not yet built a fear factor around snakes so will often get closer than they should and unwittingly provoke an attack.
Nearly everyone should survive a snakebite if they have the right
antidote and care. The patients in the clinic all appear to be recovering well and all look content despite their frightening ordeal. “For some snakes there is no antivenom,” Lynn says. In these cases, the team cleans and tries to remove as much of the infected tissue from the wound as possible to contain its spread. “We care for patients until the snake bite is healed,” Lynn says. “We do general doctoring as well.”
Lynn turns 76 this year but has no intention of moving on. “I’m very happy here. This is my home now,” she says. The site continues to develop. A series of huts built by Beresford are now occupied by a group of Maasai women artisans who create and sell their work there.
The clinic is very much part of future plans here, but funding continues to be a challenge. Recently Tanzania Association of Tour Operators was moved to make an appeal for donors towards the running of the clinic. Lynn says visitors continue to be a much-appreciated source of financial support, but she is also working with Nickel to secure NGO status for the clinic to open up other funding channels such as government grants.
The donations support an invaluable and selfless service that continues to ensure black mamba bites are not a death sentence in Tanzania.
To donate towards the running of the clinic or to get more information, visit www.pflasterfuertansania.com
'Ma' (left) oversees a patient's treatment at the clinic
FROM FARM TO DAR: THE STORY OF THE SWAHILI FARMERS’ MARKET
For more than a decade this monthly market has been a showcase of high-quality local produce and handcrafted tasty treats. Jal Patel pays a visit.
At the Swahili Farmers’ Market “food brings people together,” says environmental scientist Ruth Sabai. The market is evidence of this foodie community spirit in Dar es Salaam. Ruth is among the stallholders at the market, which every last Saturday in the month sells organic, local produce and artisanal delicacies including honey, jam, coffee, handbaked bread and fresh fruit juices.
The market is a popular part of the foodie calendar in Tanzania’s commercial capital, but there have been challenges. Chief among them has been the losing the backing of the European Committee for Training & Agriculture (CEFA). The Italian NGO partnered with the WFP (World Food Programme) in an initiative to engage the urban community in local food production and promote local value chains.
As part of the work, in 2013 CEFA members Dario De Nicola and his wife, Marina, started the Oyster Bay Farmers’ Market at Oyster Bay Shopping Centre. They wanted a place to showcase the best agro-entrepreneurs, promote local value chains, and fight malnutrition by promoting healthy, nutritious, and organic foods.
However, five years later the couple left the country. Not wanting to lose what they had, a core collection of vendors registered as the Swahili Farmers’ Market Cooperative and kept the markets going at the same location.
The rebranded market still holds strong to its aim of providing quality homegrown produce that gives visitors the opportunity to buy directly from the farmers and support local livelihoods. The market attracts farmers across the countries with produce and goods to be found from Pemba, Zanzibar Island, Bagamoyo and Kilimanjaro. They find value in this market and gain loyal customers.
“Before selling at the Swahili Farmers’ Market, my neighbours were my only customers,” said Felister Kimalele. Hailing from Bagamoyo, she is popularly known as ‘Mama Mushroom’ in reference to the produce she sells
Blocks of local Tanzanian farm cheese for sale at the market
Photo by Jal Patel
Photo by Gabriele Fiolo
Photo by Gabriele Fiolo
at the market. “Once I joined the farmers market, sales of mushrooms increased from 30 kg in 2012 to 300 kg in 2014. I was able to expand from a small livelihood activity to a formal business, employing 10 people. The market helped me connect with customers. I am always learning and trying to spread awareness about mushrooms.”
Felister was one of the first few to be trained in mushroom cultivation by the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organisation (UNESCO). Mushrooms were not traditionally part of the local diet, and many people initially feared consuming them, thinking they were poisonous. Felister has since been teaching locals how to include mushrooms in traditional dishes such as soups and samosas.
Another loyal member of the market, Farida Nassoro, produces a variety of herbal and organic products, many with healing properties. Among them is unrefined Allanblackia butter, which is deeply moisturising without the stickiness of shea butter. The butter also has anti-ageing benefits and helps remove acne and scars. Farida also makes soaps, infused oils and herbal homemade cough lozenges made from spices such as mint, bay leaves, black pepper, nutmeg, ginger, cardamom, star anise, cloves, and beeswax honey.
lemongrass. If you’re lucky, you’ll find colourful straw baskets, beautiful beaded coasters, leather goods, chocolate-coated nuts, as well as homemade cheese and wine. There are also vibrant plants and a variety of potted herbs that one can carry back home.
by Jal Patel
The Swahili Farmers’ Market continues to offer visitors healthy homemade treats all while helping local economies, communities, and the environment.
Other rare local produce for sale at the market includes mineral-rich sea moss, beeswax honey, and various condiments such as onion pickle, carrot pickles, and homemade green chilli with tamarind chutney. There are varieties of honey, from original, vanilla, and cinnamon to choose from, and teas like blackjack and
The vendors at the market have ventured out alone to continue doing what they love most. Name change aside, the Swahili Farmers’ Market continues to offer visitors healthy homemade treats all while helping local economies, communities, and the environment.
The Swahili Farmers’ Market is held from 10am to 4pm on the last Saturday of the month at the Oyster Bay Shopping Centre. For more details, email farmersmarket.tz@gmail.com
Photo
Photography by Gabriele Fiolo
GET YOUR TRIP OFF TO A FLYING START
Fly with Air Tanzania for a hassle-free breeze through our hub at Julius Nyerere International Airport in Dar es Salaam.
As Tanzania’s national carrier, ATCL has worked in partnership with our hub at Julius Nyerere International Airport to design a personalised and streamlined travel experience for our passengers. Here are some of the measures we have introduced to deliver the best customer experience.
Dedicated check-in counters
ATCL has designated check-in counters to reduce wait times and streamline the boarding process.
Enhanced customer support
Additional customer service representatives are available to assist travellers with enquiries, baggage issues, and flight information.
Priority services
Business Class passengers and Twiga
Miles frequent flyers benefit from priority check-in, boarding, and baggage handling for a seamless experience.
Efficient baggage handling
Improved baggage handling systems and coordination with airport authorities help reduce delays and minimise lost luggage incidents.
Lounge access
ATCL offers lounge access at Julius
Nyerere International Airport and Kilimanjaro International Airport for premium travellers, providing a comfortable space with refreshments, wi-fi, and other amenities.
Digital communication and alerts
The Air Tanzania Mobile App has been updated to offer real-time flight updates and notifications to keep passengers informed about schedule changes or delays. It is your ultimate travel companion.
Collaboration with airport authorities
ATCL works closely with Julius Nyerere International Airport management to improve airport processes, enhance security screening efficiency, and reduce bottlenecks.
Special assistance services
Dedicated support is available for passengers with reduced mobility, families with children, and elderly
travellers to ensure a more comfortable airport experience.
Streamlined boarding process
Improved co-ordination at boarding gates minimises delays and ensures timely departures.
Online check-in
Passengers can check in online to avoid long queues and select their seats before arriving at the airport.
YOUR ULTIMATE TRAVEL COMPANION
Fly
with ease and book your next adventure with the new Air Tanzania mobile app
FEATURES INCLUDE:
• Book a flight
• Change or cancel your flight and purchase extras such as additional baggage allowance
• Check in, view your boarding pass and add it to Apple Wallet.
• View or change your seat.
• Check the latest flight status and receive flight and gate change notifications.
• Join Air Tanzania’s rewards programme Twiga Miles and earn points every time you travel to enjoy premium services
• Book Twiga Miles award tickets.
• Check your Twiga Miles account balance and current tier status.
• Manage your trips, profile and customise your travel preferences.
Download the Air Tanzania App now on Play Store and App Store
Travel information Before take-off
Taking your first flight is certainly exciting, but can also become a source of stress for those who are unfamiliar with the rules, procedures and customs of flying. To prepare yourself for your first flight, it is therefore important to get information on everything you need to do before and during your journey. Here is a useful pre-departure checklist.
1 Before departing, it is important to check the airline’s website for its hand luggage rules: weight, sizes and types of objects you can take on board. For example, as regards liquids, you are advised to carry these in your hand luggage, only in transparent, reseal able, plastic containers, not exceeding 100 ml. If you have connection flights, we advise that you also check the websites of other airlines.
2 Arrive at the airport in advance (at least two hours for domestic flights and three hours for international flights).
3 Check in online, if possible. If travelling with hand luggage alone, you can check in online and print or download your boarding pass which you must take with you directly to security checks.
4 Set your mobile to flight mode, as well as other devices connected to the internet that you are taking on board. Cabin crew will remind you of this step before take-off. With flight mode set, you can still take photos of your unforgettable journey and you can also enjoy the in-flight entertainment system!
AIR TANZANIA FLEET
BOMBARDIER DASH 8-Q300
Number of aircraft
available: 1
Seat capacity: 56
Number of flight-deck crew: 2
Range: 1,711 km (1,486 Nm)
Typical cruising speed: 271 knots (502 km/hr)
Wingspan: 91 ft 8 in (28 m)
Length: 82 ft 4 in (25 m)
5 To prevent sickness from ruining your first flight on a plane, we advise you to take natural remedies, such as, for example, ginger tablets or gum to chew.
6 Enjoy the view! By choosing a seat near the window, you will see breath-taking landscapes and you can take photos of the exquisite white clouds you will be flying above.
7 Try to take a nap. Sleeping on the plane will make time pass faster and you will arrive at your destination calm and rested.
8 Lastly, especially during take-off and landing, the change in pressure inside the cabin may cause discomfort in your ears. Chew gum or wear earplugs to combat this.
National carrier Air Tanzania is justifiably proud of its revamped six-strong fleet. Here we take a close-up look at our aircraft with technical data and specifications.
DE HAVILLAND CANADA
DASH 8-Q400
Number of aircraft available: 5
Seat capacity: (3 De Havilland Canada) Business Class 6, Economy 70, (1 De Havilland Canada) Business class 10, Economy 68
Number of flight-deck crew: 2
Range: 2,063 km (1,362 Nm)
Typical cruising speed: up to
360 knots
(414 mph or 667 km/hr)
Wingspan: 93 ft 3 in (28.4 m)
Length: 107 ft 9 in (32.8 m)
AIRBUS 220-300 (CS300)
Number of aircraft available: 4
Seat capacity: Business Class 12 and 120 Economy Class
Number of flight-deck crew: 2
Range: 6,112 km (3,300 Nm)
Typical cruising speed: 470 knots (541 mph or 871 km/hr)
Thrust per engine at sea level:
23,300 lbf / 103.6 kN
Wingspan: 115 ft 1 in (35.1 m)
Length: 127 ft (38.7 m)
Interior cabin width: 129 inches (3.28 m)
BOEING 737-MAX 9
Number of aircraft available: 2
Seat capacity: Business Class 16 and 165 Economy Class
Number of flight-deck crew: 2
Range: 6,570 km (3,550 Nm)
Wingspan: 117 ft (35.9 m)
Speed: 853 km/h
Length: 138 ft (42.1 m)
Fuel capacity: 25,800 litres
BOEING 787-8 DREAMLINER
Number of aircraft available: 3
Seat capacity: Business Class 22 and 240 Economy Class
Number of flight-deck crew: 2
Range: 13,621 km (7,355 Nm)
Typical cruising speed: 488 knots (561 mph or 903 km/hr)
Thrust per engine at sea level:
64,000 lbf / 280 kN
Wingspan: 197 ft 3 in (60.12 m)
Length: 186 ft 1 in (56.72 m)
Interior cabin width: 18 ft 0 inch (5.49 m)
FREE BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE
Air Tanzania has a free allowance for passengers’ baggage across economy and business class. For full details and rates please see our website www.airtanzania.co.tz or contact booking enquiries
+255 748 773 900
Passports and visas
A valid passport or traveldocument that is valid for at least six months is required to enter the United Republic of Tanzania.
Visitors will also require a valid visa upon arrival. There are a range of visas available depending on the nature and frequency of your visits, but a single entry visa can be obtained on arrival in Tanzania subject to the fulfilment of all immigration requirements. There is a US$ 50 charge for the visa.
Those travelling to Zanzibar require an inbound health insurance policy, which is mandatory for all
BOEING 767-300F CARGO
Number of aircraft available: 1
Seat capacity: N/A
Range: 6,025 km (3,253 Nm)
Typical cruising speed:
488 knots (561 mph or 903 km/hr)
Cargo volume:
438 cubic metres
Cargo weight: 52.7 tonnes
Thrust per engine at sea level:
60,600 lbf / 270 kN
Wingspan: 156 ft 3 in (47.57 m)
Length: 180 ft 3 in (54.94 m)
foreign visitors. The insurance can be purchased in advance online or at check-in when departing for Zanzibar. The insurance is charged at $44 per person.
For a full list of visas available and for countries for which special terms exist, visit the Air Tanzania website.
Check-in
Check in online, if possible. If travelling with hand luggage alone, you can check in online and print or download your boarding pass, which you must take with you directly to security checks. You should check in two hours ahead of your flight time for domestic flights and three hours for international flights.
Family travel
Fares for infants and children
As a general rule, children up to two years old are not required to have their own seat and are allowed to travel on parents’ lap. An infant tickets costs 10 per cent of the regular fare. Depending on the destination, taxes and fees may apply. Please note that only 1 baby per adult is accepted. You can choose to buy a seat for your baby at the reduced rates for children if any children’s rate is applicable.
If your child is older than two years or turns two while you are travelling, you will have to book a separate seat for him or her and book the children fare for the entire journey. If a child travels with an accompanying adult in the same class of cabin, the child should be seated in the same seat row as the accompanying adult. Where this is not possible, the child should be seated no more than one
ECONOMY
BUSINESS
seat row or aisle away. Reduced rates apply for children aged two to 11 on most routes, depending on the travel class. Children turning 12 years en route need to be booked as adults for the entire journey.
Expectant mothers
Our priority is always your safety and that of your unborn child.
To avoid unnecessary risks to you and your baby, we recommend that all expectant mothers consult a doctor before booking their ticket and inquire about their fitness to fly the length of the trip they intend to take.
Depending on the stage and circumstances of your pregnancy, you may be required to present certain medical forms before flying. For your own safety and the well-being of your child, Air Tanzania will not accept expectant mothers who are pregnant from their 34th week or beyond.
UMNR (children travelling alone)
If you’re planning for your child to travel alone, we’re here to make sure they enjoy their trip and that they are well taken care of throughout their journey.
When you book our unaccompanied minor service, your child will be received at the originating airport, taken care of during transit and while on board the aircraft. He or she will be handed over to the person designated by the parents/guardians upon arrival at the final destination.
Cost
To avail the unaccompanied minor service, an adult fare needs to be purchased for the child. Please contact us to book the flight and the service.
Infant fare checked baggage allowance
Infants travelling on an infant fare are allowed 10 kg as baggage allowance.
Child fare baggage allowance
Children and infants travelling on a child fare are eligible for the same baggage allowance as adults.
Wheelchairs
If you need wheelchair assistance at the airport, you must advise Air Tanzania of this at the time of booking. You can request wheelchair assistance through our Call Centre or at Air Tanzania Sales offices.
Inflight Wi-Fi
On board Wi-Fi
Enable Wi-Fi on your laptop, tablet or smartphone, and select AirTanzaniaWifi
You will need to launch your web browser, which will display the log-in web portal. From the portal, simply select your preferred price plan.
Portable electronic devices (PEDs)
You can use your e-readers, tablets and smartphones from gate to gate – including taxiing, take-off and landing – without a risk to safety.
Note that on-board Wi-Fi is only available on certain aircraft. Please follow cabin crew instructions at all times.
Zanzibar
Those travelling to Zanzibar require an inbound health insurance policy, which is mandatory for all foreign visitors. The insurance can be purchased in advance online or at check-in when departing for Zanzibar. The insurance is charged at $44 per person.
