the work of Lilian Flaviana
Going
On behalf of:
35 Le Coelacanthe
Historic hotel at the heart of tourism dream in Comoros
41 Why I write
Samana Karim on the inspiration behind her debut children's book
44 Brimful of style
The super-sized hats and bags of Tanzanian brand Asili by Naliaka
46 Lala’s London
Meet the Nigerian guide introducing the UK capital to African visitors
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EDITOR’S NOTE
When you are young, your bedroom can often feel like a sanctuary. A place where you can escape the stresses of the outside world and be yourself without judgement.
Such freedom can be creatively empowering. Take Billie Eilish, who is now one of the biggest musical acts in the world but began as a teenager making music in her bedroom and posting it for a handful of friends on the internet. The stars of singeli – Dar es Salaam’s hyper-speed dance music –have similarly domestic DIY beginnings. Many of the genre’s best tracks have originated on a simple laptop in bedroom studios. As proof, check out this issue of Twiga in which we speak to DJ Travella, considered one of singeli’s brightest talents with music he created at his home in Dar suburb Mbagala now rocking dancefloors across Europe as well as at home.
The young Tanzanian is a prime example of a bedroom artist unafraid to wear their heart on their (pyjama) sleeve and get their creations out to the public. Enjoy!
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Expanding into China
It is my pleasure to welcome you onboard your Air Tanzania flight today and to the latest issue of Twiga, our inflight magazine.
This edition arrives at an exciting time for our airline. Just last month we increased the frequency of our direct passenger flights from Dar es Salaam to Guangzhou, in China. The now twice-weekly flights will help build on the considerable bilateral trade activity between the two countries as well as open a large potential market for tourism.
We have also taken a major step forward in boosting cargo operations with the addition of the first dedicated freighter aircraft to our fleet. The Boeing B767-300F will be based at Julius Nyerere International, in Dar, with the country's largest airport becoming ATCL’s strategic hub for cargo operations.
Three more additions to our passenger fleet are scheduled before the end of 2023 to serve our growing network of destinations. Look out for news on flights to major new cities in the coming months.
Thank you for being part of journey to connect Tanzania to the world. I wish you a pleasant journey and I hope to see you again soon.
Eng. Ladislaus Matindi Managing Director and Chief Executive Air TanzaniaKuongeza wigo wa Safari za China
Ni furaha kubwa sana kwangu kuwakaribisha kwenye ndege yenu ya Air Tanzania leo hii na kwenye toleo hili la jarida letu la Twiga.
Toleo hili linakuja kwenye kipindi chenye msisimko mkubwa kwa kampuni yetu; kwani ni mwezi uliopita tu tumetoka kuongeza idadi ya safari zetu za moja kwa moja kutokea Dar es Salaam kwenda Guangzhou, huko Uchina.
Safari hizi ambazo sasa zitakuwa ni mara mbili kwa wiki, zitasaidia sana kuimarisha shughuli za biashara ya pande mbili kati ya nchi mbili hizi na zitafungua fursa kubwa kwenye soko la utalii.
Vilevile, tumepiga hatua kubwa kwenye kuimarisha biashara ya usafirishaji mizigo, kwa kuongeza ndege yetu ya kwanza ambayo itakuwa ni mahsusi kwa kusafirisha mizigo, kwenye jumla ya idadi ya ndege zetu. Ndege hii aina ya Boeing B767-300F itafanyia safari zake kutokea uwanja wa ndege wa kimataifa wa Julius Nyerere, jijini Dar, ambapo uwanja huu mkubwa zaidi wa ndege nchini, ndio utakuwa kitovu cha safari zote za kusafirisha mizigo kwa ATCL. Ndege nyingine tatu za abiria zinatarajiwa kuwasili kabla ya mwaka huu wa 2023 kuisha, ili kukidhi ongezeko la idadi ya safari zetu kuelekea miji mbalimbali duniani.
Tarajieni kusikia habari kuhusu safari zaidi kuelekea miji mingine mipya, katika miezi ijayo.
Ahsanteni sana kwa kuwa sehemu ya safari ya
kuiunganisha Tanzania na dunia.
Nawatakia safari njema na natumai tutaonana tena hivi karibuni.
We celebrate International Women’s Day
Air Tanzania marked International Women’s Day on March 8 by championing its fantastic female staff on the ground and in the air. CEO and Managing Director Eng. Ladislaus Matindi led the celebrations at ATCL HQ while the airline donated medical equipment to the Cancer Institute in Dar es Salaam.
LET’S GO, CARGO!
In March, Air Tanzania got delivery of its first aircraft dedicated to freight transport. The climate-controlled Boeing B767-300F will be based at Julius Nyerere International Airport, which will become a strategic hub for our cargo operations.
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Five facts you may not know about Guangzhou
Air Tanzania now connects passengers twice a week to China with its flights from Dar es Salaam to Guangzhou. Here’s a few fascinating facts about this majestic port city on the Pearl River to prepare you.
1 It was once – actually three times – the capital of China
The first time was between 1925 and 1927, then in 1931 and finally for a few months in 1949 during the final months of the Chinese Civil War.
2 It’s known as the ‘City of Flowers’
The sub-tropical climate here blesses Guangzhou with all-year-round flora is blessed and the city is festooned with gardens, trees and greenery. Check out one of the city’s many flower markets and, if you’re lucky enough to be here for the New Year, head to the Spring Festival Flower Fair.
3
It’s the home of Cantonese cuisine
The city’s centuries as a trading port meant Cantonese cuisine is renowned as the richest and most eclectic in the country. Favourites include meat and vegetable stir fries, versatile dumplings called dim sums and plenty of spices such as ginger and chilli. Guangzhou also has more restaurants than any other city in China, so there’s plenty of opportunity for a taste test.
4
It’s one of China’s most important ports
Situated on the Pearl River, Guangzhou has a maritime heritage stretching back over 2,000 years and its vast port is still one of China’s busiest. It was also one of the starting points of the old Silk Road, a trading route that stretched across Asia.
5 Its metro is the third longest in the world
If you are thinking about getting around the city by metro, you’ll be far from alone on the 589.4 km network. In 2018, it delivered 3.029 billion rides.
I feel lucky to be in a place as creative as Tanzania’
Creative, daring and above all beautiful, the work of photographer Lilian Flaviana reveals Tanzania in the raw. Here, Twiga shares some of the Dar es Salaam-born artist’s latest work and discovers how she captures the “beautiful chaos” of her home city.
Q: When did your interest in photography begin?
A: I didn’t realise until about two years ago, when I saw an old photo of my father teaching me how to use a camera during a family trip to Victoria Falls in 1997. That’s definitely the moment when my curiosity for cameras began. My first job in Tanzania was as a junior digital producer, developing videos for some of the country’s top brands. However, I feel like I naturally gravitated to photography because I wanted to capture moments in the rawest of ways that I resonated with. With that I felt able to tell a million stories through that one photograph.
Q: What kind of camera did you start with?
A: My father owned a Panasonic film camera so that was my first experience. When I was in my third year of university, I saved up to buy myself the Canon EOS 70D. She was an absolute dream! Gave me such joy and all the memories.
Q: What are you trying to achieve with your pictures?
A: When I was growing up, the photos of blackness and African-ism were so one-dimensional. For me, they didn’t capture complex stories of love, mental wellness, celebration of the self. So that’s what I try to show when I’m behind the lens. It’s a mix of things that I have experienced personally or seen around me, and it exudes brilliance. That is exactly what I intend on capturing.
Q: What to you makes a good picture?
A: I hope I don’t capture ‘good pictures’! I hope I capture love and freedom and beauty. Excellence is what I’m after. Now what makes an excellent photo? I guess that’s all in the way that it makes the photographer and the viewer feel. When it’s good, you feel it! When it’s excellent, you breathe it!
Q: Which of your works are you most proud of and why?
A: I was recently featured on the cover of the Dar es Salaam edition of Off To – a magazine aimed at the African diaspora
– and I was very pleased with my work there. I was able to work with creatives from the Mervki arts collective who are just pure magic. Additionally, I was able to capture the skyline of Dar es Salaam – my city. All of which makes me super happy, humbled and proud.
Q: Who have been your inspirations on your journey in photography?
A: I am constantly inspired. My friends are some of my biggest inspirations, each one so perfectly themselves and daring at what they do. I also love (and sometimes loathe) being online where you can come to appreciate so many creators and artists. I feel lucky to be in a space like Tanzania where people are consistently trying new things and dabbling in new waters. That is where my inspiration lies.
Q: Do you have a favourite place in Tanzania to photograph?
A: It’ll always be the streets of Dar es Salaam. I was born in [Dar neighbourhood] Sinza so I consider myself a child of the bustling Dar streets! The beautiful chaos that it offers is picturesque enough.
Q: Do you collaborate with other Tanzanian creatives? Is there a community of like-minded artists here?
A: Yes, and yes! I think that there is a lack of opportunity and financial means for collaborations, but I hope to see that more and more like-minded artists coming together to art! I am where I am because of the village of creatives I see around me. It inspires me, it challenges me, it keeps me hungry.
Q: What is your top tip to someone wanting to improve the photographs they take?
A: Stay true to you. There have been so many times that I have been asked to “lighten up the skin tones in your photos” or “why isn’t this person smiling?” or “why that angle?”
It took me a while to understand what makes me a photographer and what stories do I want to tell in their truest forms. I now know. And my only advice would be for each one to find that in themselves.
For more of Lilian’s work and to keep up with her latest news, visit @lilianflaviana on Instagram
Rising star of singeli DJ Travella is GOING PLACES
DJ Travella had a big 2022 with his captivating debut album, ‘Mr Mixondo’, and a well-received European tour marking him as the future of Dar es Salaam dance music singeli. Mark Edwards meets the 21-year-old talent, who charts his musical journey from his bedroom to Barcelona’s Boiler Room.
Emerging Dar es Salaam producer Hamadi Hassani’s choice of musical moniker, DJ Travella, has proved prescient recently with the breakout star of the city’s breakneck-paced dance music singeli recently having just returned from a European tour that took in France, Belgium, Estonia and Spain.
The month-long trip was the 21-year-old’s first time outside his native Tanzania, but precious little nervousness was visible when he
hit the decks at his gigs. For proof, stream the full YouTube video of his set at Barcelona’s Boiler Room, one of the most important venues in the Spanish city’s nightlife scene, in which he has thousands of seasoned clubbers in the palm of his hands from the first track he drops from his debut album, ‘Mr Mixondo’. The 13-track album was released in April last year on Nyege Nyege Tapes, a Uganda-based label renowned for showcasing some of the most progressive East African dance music.
I meet Travella – a slight, smiling figure in a loose-fitting T-shirt and baseball cap, which he occasionally removes, allowing his freeform dreads to tumble over his brow – at his family home in Mbagala Charambe. It is a suburb of southern Dar and getting there from the city centre involved a white-knuckled 45-minute taxi ride. I’m still a little jumpy on arrival, but his easy manner is infectious. It is clear he is still buzzing from the joyous reception to his music at the European shows.
“The vibe was good. They didn’t want me to finish my set,” he says. The crowd adoration came as a surprise, he adds. Such humility may stem from the fact DJ Travella does not, yet, command the same fan fervour at home. In fact, beyond DJing a handful of house parties for friends, he has never performed a live concert in Dar.
Travella appears to have come out of nowhere to announce himself as one of the most adventurous and exciting exponents of Dar’s singeli music scene. The frenetic urban dance music, much like the city it was born in, is dizzyingly fast paced. Tracks can reach 300 beats per minute, an intensity that fuels fierce MCing and fevered dancing at concerts. It began with the first releases of laptop producer Sisso Mohamed, who went on to set up Sisso Studios in 2013 which, along with the neighbouring and similarly small-scale Pamoja Studios, was the incubator for a host of emerging local singeli DJs and MCs. Both studios were able to spread the word on their artists’ music beyond Tanzania’s borders with a series of releases on Nyege Nyege Tapes.
Singeli scene
DJ Travella remains unaffiliated with either Sisso or Pamoja and, as he has since he was 15 years old, continues to make his music his way in his bedroom-turned home studio. Being something of a singeli outsider seems to have helped shape Travella’s unique take on the genre. There are no collaborations with MCs on ‘Mr Mixondo’, instead the exclusively instrumental tracks evidence Travella’s magpie mind as he selects and splices samples across a huge spectrum of musical influences from Afro trap and UK drill to traditional taarab tracks.
One recent album review in an international music magazine described ‘Mr Mixondo’ as “the future of singeli”. Travella reacts with an abashed smile when I relay the quote, but he goes on to tell me:
“I want to be moving forward and create a singeli that is ready for an international taste.”
For Travella, the fact that singeli music keeps evolving with emerging artists taking the genre in new directions is proof of its staying power. “Singeli will never die,” he says. When Travella started experimenting with making his own music at the age of 15, it was the DIY nature of singeli – all you need to get started is a basic laptop and software – that made it possible. “I had no choice,” he says. Still Travella found his basic set-up allowed him to absorb a range of styles and found sounds into his music.
“I have always liked different styles of music,” he tells me. “I started out DJing when I was 15 searching the internet for music new to me. I love it when I find a beat from somewhere and I get to transform it into my own music.”
Debut album
Travella cleared all the samples for use on ‘Mr Mixondo’, but there are also hundreds of smaller samples he has cut and looped for the dense, endlessly inventive tracks.
I am treated to some of Travella’s live mixing skills while in the studio. Using the Virtual DJ software on his laptop he brings up a beat and with amazing dexterity, his fingers flicking across the controls, fades new samples in and out and speeds up the music to a giddying intensity. I listen along with an MC friend of Travella and singeli A&R guru Abbassi Jazza, who set up today’s interview, and he has us all transfixed in moments.
The four of us is all it takes to fill up the tiny studio, which has recently been updated with a stand-up mike, a new laptop and speakers purchased with the proceeds of Travella’s European gigs during downtime at tour date Rennes in France.
The one nod to comfort is a threeseater sofa, which, while welcome, takes up the entire back wall of the studio and prevents the door to the room opening beyond a crack. As a result, entering and exiting the studio involves a tight squeeze and some clambering over the cushions.
Home studio
The studio walls have some rudimentary soundproofing attached – important as Travella shares the home with his parents, siblings, partner and two-year-old son. His father welcomes us on arrival, and it is obvious he is very proud of his son. Incredibly, when Travella asked for permission from his parents to go away for a month to perform his music in Europe, his father was taken aback as he had no idea his son even made music. The story is testament to Travella’s efforts to not disturb his family with his music as well as how private, until recently, his musical journey has been.
That Travella’s music has now travelled far beyond his bedroom is down to his will to succeed and the involvement of Nyege Nyege Tapes.
“I wanted so much to be a DJ,” Travella tells me. “I would put my music on YouTube, but really at that point it was just for me and my friends.
“I connected with Nyege Nyege and they told me to send them some of my music. I’m not even sure how many tracks I gave them all together, but it must have been more than 50.”
Nyege Nyege were impressed with what they heard. The collective –which runs two record labels and a multi-day pan-African music festival in Jinja, Uganda – gets its name from the Luganda word describing “a sudden, uncontrollable urge to dance” and Travella’s kinetic music is
I started out DJing when I was 15 searching the internet for music new to me. I love it when I find a beat from somewhere and I get to transform it into my own musicThe 'Mr Mixondo' album cover DJ Travella poses on the streets of Mbagala Photograph: Mark Edwards
primed to get everyone moving. Between them, Travella and Nyege Nyege selected the 13 tracks that make up ‘Mr Mixondo’ and a UK music producer Declared Sound mastered it to ensure each bedroom-made song sounds amazing purchased or streamed on the label’s Bandcamp page.
London calling
The album is a sonic journey to the outer reaches of singeli with the playful Travella changing course when the listener least expects it.
Opener ‘Crazy Beat Music Umeme 2’ undercuts its driving rhythm with stabs of classical strings while in ‘FL Beat’ Travella loops a sweet keyboard melody then crams in an army of percussive samples – including what sounds like the ‘whoop-whoop of a wobbleboard – to fashion something far more salacious.
Travella’s softer side comes through on ‘London Uwoteeee’ with ethereal vocals and tinkling piano gliding over woodblock rhythm patterns, although the DJ can’t resist adding some whistles and chants that up the track’s clip to a military march. Travella references the UK capital in three other track titles on the album. The football and music fan tells me the UK has always fascinated him and that it is his dream to go to London.
Unfortunately, the UK’s protracted visa approval process meant DJ Travella was unable to include London in his European tour last year, but it looks likely he will be cleared to travel by April and preparations for a UK tour are in the works.
“Dreams come true,” he says.
There is a singeli fanbase in the UK looking forward to those dates almost as much as DJ Travella, with
interest piqued by the release of ‘Mr Mixondo’ and the success of last year’s tour. Word has spread from those European dates of Travella’s instinctual ability to build the energy of the room with his music and his habit of breaking out his own dance moves at moments of peak excitement. Travella says the dancing “just comes naturally”, but the onetime bedroom DJ admits he “surprised himself” by how much he relished the spotlight.
Collaborations
As well as connecting with thousands of clubbers on tour, Travella is also now allowing more people into his musical bubble back in Tanzania. His newly kitted out home studio – which he has now branded as Mixondo Records – is now being hired out by local emerging artists for recording sessions. He has also started collaborating with other artists, including Venezuelan artist Arca. The pair hit it off during Travella’s time in Barcelona, where Arca is now based, and are now working on a couple of tracks together.
Travella has also teamed up with American singer-songwriter Steve Lacy on a new project and he hints at another joint effort with a Brazilian artist coming soon.
Some of these tracks may make the cut for his second album release on Nyege Nyege, which Travella hopes will be out before the end of the year. With these globe-trotting collaborations and the promise of an upcoming tour, DJ Travella continues to prove he is a musician who is going places.
For the latest news on DJ Travella, visit dj_travella_mr_mixondo on Instagram
Stream or buy ‘Mr Mixondo” at nyegenyegetapes. bandcamp.com/album/mr-mixondo
To watch Dj Travella’s Boiler Room show, visit www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACyXAsEtuow
NIGHT LIFE in Nairobi
Air Tanzania now flies to Nairobi twice each day and among the attractions when visitors arrive is the Kenyan capital's vivid dance music scene. One of its hottest emerging acts is Coco Em. The filmmaker, photojournalist and producer broke through as a DJ two years ago and is now in demand at clubs across Nairobi. She describes her sound as an ‘Afro-cocktail’ with traditional genres such as lingala – a Kenyan rhumba – rubbing up against modern house beats. She has also just released her first original music, a seven-track EP of dark electronica and African rhythms called 'Kilumi'. Here the Nairobi creative introduces us to her favourite clubs as a performer and a punter.
The Mist
Basement
floor, Ring Rd.
Westlands, Nairobi
The Mist is a club venue located in the heart of Westlands, Nairobi. It is down in the basement of an old building called ‘The Mall’. It has a rough, unfinished interior, which matches perfectly with the heavy bass music that can be heard blasting through the doors on any given Friday. The founders of The Mist, veteran DJ producer duo DJs Raph and Kamwangi, handle all the bookings for the very eclectic entertainment line-up (there’s even a night for country music!). Expect anything from techno, to drum ‘n’ bass, hip hop and special events put on by the electronic music community of neighbouring arts organisation Santuri East Africa.
Unseen Nairobi
623 Wood Avenue, Nairobi
As well as a DJ, I am a filmmaker, so I am drawn towards this wonderful rooftop cinema and restaurant. Whether you are taking in a movie or the panoramic views over Nairobi’s plush Kilimani district this place is a treat for the eyes. There is plenty of crossover between the film and music scene in the city and the bar and restaurant place is a great place to hang-out with creative-minded people. A lot of local talent cross paths here.
Shelter KE
63 Woodvale Grove, Nairobi
This new two-storey nightclub fits nicely into the strip of clubs and bars in Westlands that locals know as Electric Avenue. Dancers get a sweet view of the bustling street from the rooftop dance floor. The aptly named Shelter is something of a sanctuary for the underground house and techno music scenes in Nairobi.
Captain’s Terrace
3rd floor, Kellico Complex, Mombasa Road Nairobi.
If it’s house music you want, then visit Captain’s Terrace on any given Saturday or Sunday. The modern bar/restaurant venue overlooks the Nairobi National Park and offers scenic sunsets as you indulge in vibes from popular house events such as Monateng, where selected DJs take over and play Afrohouse deep into the night.
If you are a lover of amapiano – the hybrid of deep house, jazz and lounge music that originated in South Africa –then this recently updated restaurant/ bar located at the Ngong Racecourse, is the place for you. The venue hosts a wide array of South African international talent as well as local powerhouse entertainers. Crowds come here strictly for the music, which makes this space so great to perform in. I also get great vibes here when I come to DJ.
'KILUMI'
Kilumi is available to buy as a digital download on bandcamp for EUR7 (US$ 8)
WIN
WIN A B&B STAY FOR TWO AT ZANZIBAR PALACE HOTEL
ANSWER THESE QUESTIONS
To be in with a chance of winning, email your answers to the three questions below along with a photograph of yourself holding Twiga 17 on your Air Tanzania flight to competition@landmarine.org by 10th June 2023. Bahati njema!
1 What is the name of DJ Travella's debut album?
2 Which of the three islands in the Comoros is home to Le Coelacanthe hotel?
3 What is the name of the tallest building in Guangzhou?
The Zanzibar Palace Hotel is the perfect place to soak up some authentic Swahili vibes. The historic former merchant’s home in the heart of Stone Town has been renovated into an exclusive boutique hotel with a focus on high quality service and modern comfort. There are nine rooms and suites, each with their own distinctive style created with many local antique pieces of furniture and colourful fabrics. It is the perfect base to explore and experience the magical island of Zanzibar so Twiga is delighted that the hotel is offering the competition prize in this issue. One lucky winner will win a night’s bed-and-breakfast stay for themselves and a guest of their choice.
Last issue’s WINNER
Congratulations to Loi Rogers who wins a night for two at La Coelacanthe in Comoros. Well done and thanks for flying Air Tanzania.
A year in pictures
Feast your eyes on these amazing images from across Tanzania. They are among the 12 photographs selected for the 2023 calendar available from A Novel Idea. The bookshop, which this year is celebrating its 30th anniversary, organised a competition, inviting amateur photographers to send in their best shots of the country’s wildlife, oceans, cities and villages. The top three winning entries received prizes while a further nine ‘honourable mentions’ complete the calendar, which is available from A Novel Idea’s Dar es Salaam and Arusha branches as well as hotel and lodge gift shops throughout the country. Orders can also be made via email at sales@novelidea.co.tz
2024 Calendar competition
Entries for the 2024 calendar competition will be accepted from June 1 to July 31, 2023. All photographs must be a minimum of 300ppi over 3000 pixels per side, in TIFF of .jpeg format and must have been taken in Tanzania in the past five years. There is a maximum of eight entries per person. Entries should be accompanied by a description and location of the photograph.
XII-XLV Dance to your own beat at new nightclub’s silent discos
New Dar es Salaam rooftop restaurant and entertainment hub XII-XLV (Twelve Forty Five) has some innovative takes on dining and dancing. Among them is its silent disco night Selekta in which clubbers can choose between tracks from live DJs wirelessly played to them through headphones.
Masaki venue Twelve Forty Five – its branding uses the Roman numerals XII-XLV – has fast become one of the top places in Dar to drink, dine and dance. Since it was launched in October last year, the lounge has been making a noise on the vibrant city’s nightlife scene, yet one of its most popular club nights prides itself on barely making a sound.
Silent discos have become a hugely popular trend in clubs the world over and with its Selekta nights every Wednesday XII-XLV has become the first to introduce them in Tanzania. Clubbers each get a set of wireless headphones allowing them to tune in to their choice of the music being played by a live line-up of three DJs.
It may seem bizarre to see the sleek two-floor venue with its buzzy rooftop area packed with dancers lost in music only they can hear, but silent discos provide seasoned clubbers with a new, unique experience.
Firstly, it gives the opportunity for clubbers to choose the music they want to hear, switching between DJ sets as they please. There are usually three DJs to choose from at Selekta – with residents including DJ Joozey, who knows all about playing to a quiet audience having in March become the first DJ to play a set on the top of Mount Kilimanjaro – and there is a soundclash vibe with each DJ competing to get the most clubbers listening to their tracks. The wireless headphones light up with a different colour depending on which DJ is being listened to. It means the DJs are always vying to get the most clubbers listening to their music. As a result, at Selekta you are guaranteed crowd-pleasing bangers all night long.
The lounge's general manager, Arnold Ruchaki, says Dar clubbers have taken to the “novel concept”. “Selekta Wednesdays have become a popular theme night here offering an alternative to the usual chart hits, afrobeats, amapiano and r&b. At Selekta we focus on reggae and dancehall music. Very quickly appreciation grew for the option to select from three channels of music to create a personalised listening experience according to one’s mood and taste.”
The communal energy of club nights is much talked about, and you get that with Selekta, but if you choose to go with it, a silent disco also offers an opportunity for a more personal connection with the music, customising your club experience.
Finally, let’s not forget it’s a Wednesday so the people of Masaki who have to get up early for work the next day are no doubt pleased there is no need for a booming sound system. Not that the experience is completely silent. “There is nothing like watching your friends singing and dancing to different styles of music all at the same time! A fun night out guaranteed,” Ruchaki says.
The silent discos are just a part of the XII-XLV experience. The name of the club reflects its day and night appeal with 12:45pm the time for a tasty rooftop brunch or lunch with priceless views over the Indian Ocean while 12.45am is when the night-time party is in full swing and cocktail staff will be seen streaming through the lounge with complimentary shots on Selekta Wednesday nights.
XII-XLV promises plenty more novel entertainment concepts, adding a fun, fresh flair to the night life experience in Tanzania.
For more information or to make a reservation, call +255 748 211 245, email info@1245.co.tz or go to @1245tz on Instagram.
Cars are the stars in historic Gondal
Just an hour’s flight from Air Tanzania destination Mumbai, the historic city of Gondal is renowned for the opulent palaces of its former Maharaja rulers – many of which visitors can stay in as they are now historic hotels – and the royal family’s collection of vintage cars. Murli Menon soaks up the accommodation as well as the automobiles on a recent stay.
Atravel journalist’s life is not a bad one. I am writing this from my garden-facing suite at the Orchard Palace Resort in Gondal, a heritage hotel managed by the royal family of Gondal. Sumptuous does not even cover it. As if I wasn’t feeling lucky enough, as an avid vintage vehicle lover I am in car heaven with the hotel being right next door to the Gondal Antique Car Museum.
The car collection was begun by Maharaja Bhagwat Sinhji who ruled the region in early 20th century and was renowned as a visionary leader and a car fanatic. The collection now includes more than 50 vintage cars and motorcycles, all kept in pristine working order.
Among the highlights are a 1923 Rolls Royce Silver Ghost and a 1931 Studebaker President. Visitors can also see a 1948 Rolls Royce Silver Wraith, a 1951 Chevrolet Styleline, and a 1955 Mercedes Benz 300SL Gullwing.
The museum is open to the public every day except Monday and visitors can take a guided tour of the museum, which is conducted in English and Hindi. It is a fascinating place to visit that offers a glimpse into the history of transportation and a chance to see some truly beautiful and rare vehicles.
The four-wheeled delights don’t end there. The Orchard Palace Hotel also has its own museum housing a collection of vintage and classic cars owned by the previous Maharaja of Gondal. His Highness Maharaja Jyotendrasinhji –who died last year – was a keen racing driver with many wins on Indian tracks in the 1960 and the collection includes his favourite fire-red Mercedes-Benz 300 SL Roadster.
I was shown around the collection by the museum manager Mr Bhavesh and I was given all the time I needed to soak in the classic cars, each parked in its own private garage. Highlights for me were a gorgeous, bright orange 1930 Delage designed by Maurice Gaultier and a 1947 top-of-the-line Frazer (Kaiser-Buick convertible). The most unusual “car” dates back to 1907 was made in the United Kingdom. It was called the New Engine, looks more like a tram than a car and was able to run on train tracks as well as the road.
How to get there
By Air: Fly from Mumbai International Airport to Rajkot Airport. The journey takes about an hour. Gondal is about 41km from Rajkot Airport.
Museum ticket
Ticket price is Rs 120 per person plus Rs 280 for photos and video recording per camera. A few cars are displayed behind glass panels, so it is not possible to take successful photos. You need to pay extra to visit other palaces in Gondal.
Where to eat?
There are several restaurants offering Indian vegetarian cuisine located around Gondal. You’ll also find plenty of street stalls selling dosas (filled pancakes), khaman (savoury steamed sponge) and dhoklas (classic Gujarat cake) are also found here. Dhabas (roadside restaurants) serving Gujarati and Kathiawari vegetarian fare are also plentiful in the city and along the highway from Ahmedabad to Gondal.
Murli Menon, is a travel writer, stress-management consultant and author based in Ahmedabad, India. He is the author of ZeNLP –Learning Through Stories’ published by The Written Word Publications, ‘ZeNLP –the Power to Succeed’, published by Sage publications, and ‘ZeNLP – the Power to Relax’ by New Dawn Press. He can be reached at ceo@tips4ceos.com
In the battle of the jollof THIS RECIPE IS THE WINNER
East meets west in this recipe from Twiga cookery columnist Belinda Mkony – aka the ‘rebel chef’ – which marries Tanzanians’ love of goat meat with the West African classic jollof rice. It’s a spicy union and you can put it together at home with Belinda’s easy-to-follow recipe.
The love of goat meat in Tanzania knows no bounds. We eat it head to toe, whether it’s ‘mapaya’ (goat hooves) or goat’s head soup. The favourite, though, has to be when the meat is barbecued and here you will find it being sold at street food stalls, restaurants and major celebratory events.
But cuisine is global so I’m taking another flight to the West of Africa to tackle the ‘battle of the jollof’. Jollof rice is a cultural delicacy across West Africa and is behind some longstanding and (mostly) good-humoured debate about which country in the region produces the best, with the argument most heated between Nigeria and Ghana.
I’m too smart to take sides, but Ghanaian Jollof has a reputation for its seductive aroma, deep red colour and spicy flavor.
That authentic body of flavors make it a delicious dish on its own, but I have paired it with some protein in the form of our beloved goat meat. paired on its own or with any protein of your choosing. So it is only fair to be paired with the one and only goat meat. NITAMMMUUU! (sweet!)
Jollof ingredients
Meat and marinade
6 ½ pound bone-in goat meat
6 2 cloves garlic
6 1 inch ginger
6 1 tsp fresh thyme
6 1 tsp dried oregano
6 Scotch bonnet
6 ½ green bell pepper optional
6 1 onion
6 ¼ teaspoon cumin seeds
6 ½ teaspoon curry powder
6 salt as required
6 hot water
Jollof
6 1 large red onion
6 Scotch bonnet pepper
6 1 green bell pepper sliced
6 3 tomatoes chopped
6 ¼ cup vegetable oil
6 3 tablespoons tomato paste or puree
6 ¼ teaspoon nutmeg
6 2 cups long or medium grain rice
6 Stock from cooking of goat meat
6 Salt as required
6 2 beef seasoning cubes
6 Oil
6 Water as required
6 Salt as required
Preparation
Prepare goat meat.
Wash and clean goat meat and put in a saucepan. Blend garlic, ginger, thyme, oregano, scotch bonnet, green bell pepper, onions and cumin seeds together. Pour over goat meat. Add salt and curry powder and set on fire under high heat to steam. Add hot water as and when needed to tenderise the meat.
Meanwhile, blend the onions and scotch bonnet and set aside.
For the stew
Pour oil in a heavy bottom saucepan with a tight lid and place on medium heat.
When hot, add the meat to fry reserving the stock for later. Remove the meat from the saucepan and set aside. Add additional oil if there is not enough oil in the saucepan.
Add tomato paste or puree and stir fry for about two minutes. Add the blended onions, scotch bonnet. Add blended tomatoes and stir fry. Add nutmeg and cover with the lid. Simmer on high heat for about five minutes till cooked through.
Rinse rice until water is cleared. Add the rinsed rice to the stew, reserved goat meat stock from the cooked meat, beef stock cube, taste for salt and just enough water as needed.
Cover tightly and bring to boil. Immediately it starts boiling, remove lid,
using a thin wooden ladle or a long fork stir from bottom to top.
Cover tightly and let simmer on low heat for 10-12 minutes. After the time is up, remove lid and stir again. Stir in fried goat meat at this point. Cover tightly and let simmer for 10 more minutes till its well cooked. Serve alone or with fried ripe plantains and coleslaw/fresh tomato and cucumber salad as desired to keep the meal fresh.
FOLLOW BELINDA
To keep up with her latest recipes and events, visit Fork.Ur.Munchies on Instagram
The avant-garde architecture of GUANGZHOU
Air Tanzania now operates two direct flights each week to Guangzhou. The port city brings together the old and new China. Ancient temples date back to its days as one of the starting points of the Maritime Old Silk Road trading routes while its position today as the country's trade and innovations hub has lured the cream of contemporary architects to create some mesmerising modern buildings. Here is Twiga’s pick of the unique creations that now make up one of the world’s most recognisable skylines.
GUANGZHOU OPERA HOUSE
A night at the opera in Guangzhou is an unforgettable event thanks to this wonderfully sinuous building created by award-winning architect Zaha Hadid. It takes the form of what appears to be two enormous pebbles on the banks of the Pearl River (also
known by its Chinese name Zhujiang) and continues that globular design with the larger pebble containing the grotto-like main auditorium, which seats up to 1,800 people in its beautifully moulded golden stalls and balconies. There’s barely a right angle to be found elsewhere in this soaring, swooping three-storey building with connecting foyers and staircases
under a spider-web style roof, which allows views of the surrounding skyscrapers of the finance district. Like much of modern Guangzhou, the opera house really comes alive at night as it bursts into neon life.
Nearest metro station: Guangzhou Opera House Station (APM line)
GUANGZHOU CIRCLE
Guangzhou wears the new wealth it has become a magnet for in its shimmering skyscrapers, but it also is home to a landmark that looks like a single giant copper coin. At 138 metres, the Guangzhou Circle is the world’s highest circular building and its 33 storeys are the offices of some of China’s leading businesses. Its architect, Joseph Di Pasquale, drew from ancient Chinese traditions in creating his design. The building’s circular shape with a hole at its centre is reminiscent of the jade discs that were a royal symbol of ancient dynasties and its position on the banks of the Pearl River creates a reflection in the water that doubles its shape into a figure eight. In Chinese culture the number is associated with wealth and good fortune. It is no coincidence that the Beijing Olympics was officially launched at 8.08 am on the eighth day of the eight month in 2008.
Nearest metro station: Hejing Lu
GUANGDONG MUSEUM
This grand monolithic building has the look of a gigantic puzzle assembled in Flower City Square on the north bank of the Pearl. Glowing red geometric shapes have been cut into its stone façade and offer tantalising glimpses of the treasures within through glass panels. The design draws inspiration
from ornate Chinese lacquer boxes used to secure precious items. The museum has plenty of those with more than 130,000 artefacts, including national treasures such as Duan inkstones and Chaozhou woodcarving, inside. The architectural wonders also continue inside with the main exhibition space hung from the roof and smaller showing rooms shelving out over the cavernous atrium beneath it. It’s a spectacular place for culture vultures to explore.
Nearest metro station: Zhujiang New Town
GUANGZHOU LIBRARY
With outdoor art exhibitions and plenty of shopping and dining options nearby, Flower City Square has become a popular place for Guangzhou residents to enjoy some open space. It is also the city’s emerging cultural centre and this library is the latest imaginatively designed building to join the Guangzhou Opera House and Guangzhou Museum in sharing its riverside setting. The concave entrance to the eight-storey library is suggestive of an open book while the façade of cascading slate evokes the book’s pages. It’s an impressive welcome to a building that holds more than four million books and has a café on its top floor offering wonderful views across the square. Unfortunately, you have to be a local to be a member, but guided tours for visitors are available.
Nearest metro station: Zhujiang New Town
FLIGHTS TO GUANGZHOU
GUANGZHOU CANTON TOWER
This 604 metre-tower with its distinctive feminine shape cinched at the ‘waist’ dominates the city skyline. It was the tallest tower in the world when it was launched in 2010 and it is packed with features for thrill-seeking visitors that make the most of its colossal height. At 485 metres up you’ll find The Sky Drop, the highest vertical free fall in the world, where those brave enough can pay to plunge, seated or standing, 100 metres. More sedate high-rise adventures can be had on the Bubble Tram, 16 plexi glass sightseeing cabins that revolve around the outside of the tower 455 metres up. For more panoramic views, follow the Spider Walk, the longest spiral staircase in the world, which climbs around the tower from 168 to 334 metres, and will test your nerve in places as part of the platform is made from transparent glass. If, even at this height, you want to experience even more stratospheric regions – or perhaps you are just too scared to look down – there is a star observation deck on the 107th and 108th floors. At night is also a time to take in the tower from a distance as each of its array of lights is individually controllable so there are always new colour combinations and animations to look out for.
Nearest metro station: Canton Tower (APM Line)
One way fares start at $1040. For details, visit airtanzania.co.tz or call for free on 0800 110 045.
At night is the time to take in the Canton Tower from a distance as each of its array of lights is individually controllable(Bottom) Sunset views from the Bubble Tram Image: Pongchart B / Shutterstock.com (Middle) The Guangzhou Library Image: Sarun Wongrajit / Shutterstock.com (Top) Guangzhou Museum Image: Sarun Wongrajit / Shutterstock.com
Hotel at the heart of TOURISM DREAM IN COMOROS
Historic hotel Le Coelacanthe is a landmark of Comoros past, but is also key to the Indian Ocean archipelago's future as it sets an admirable example in a country looking to tourism to revitalise its economy. Mark Edwards finds out more about owner Amin Salim's expansion plans during his stay.
Le Coelacanthe hotel in Grande Comore, the largest island in the Comoros archipelago, can’t compete with the prehistoric heritage of the mysterious fish it is named after – fossils of coelacanths have been discovered dating back around 65 million years and the enormous eight-finned creature was long thought extinct until one was caught alive off the Comoros coast in 1987 with more finds following – but its origins do go deep into the islands’ storied past.
It was opened in Grande Comore’s capital, Moroni, in 1967, becoming one of the islands’ first ever hotels.
Its owners were the internal assembly that governed Comoros, though the archipelago was at that time still a part of France. Independence did not come until 1975 with three of the islands – Grande Comore, Anjouan and Moheli – opting for autonomous rule while Mayotte abstained and remains to this day a French overseas department.
Priceless location
The beach-side hotel was designed as an attractive place for the government to house visiting delegates and entertain guests. Its rooms, terrace bar and outdoor swimming pool
are built over a hectare of land that rubs up against the black volcanic rock fringing the Comoros coast and which provides such a stark, beautiful contrast with the many white sand beaches here.
However, the early years of independence were beset with instability and unrest. Between 1975 and the late 1990s the country had five coups with regime overhauls meaning Le Coelacanthe was mothballed for long periods and soon fell into disrepair.
By 1995, the hotel was bought by a Comorian family, who have retained ownership to this day driven by a desire to return the hotel to its former glories, re-establish its role at the heart of Moroni’s community and play a part in galvanising the islands’ tourism industry.
That drive has increased in intensity under current manager Amin Salim. Born in Paris, he learned to speak English and Arabic while at school in Cairo, where his Comorian parents worked at the British Consul. He returned to Paris to do his military service and remained to launch a business importing kitchen accessories from China for sale in France. He also fell in love with a university student called Wuridat, who had come to the French capital to study after growing up in Moroni.
In 2003 the couple got married in Comoros. Marriages in the almost exclusively Muslim country are big deals that sweep up entire
towns and villages in their day-long celebrations. It is the groom’s family that funds these no expense-spared events while the bride contributes the estate of the family home.
Wuridat, it turned out, was the daughter of the Le Coelacanthe owners and the newlyweds soon moved into their wedding gift with plans to build their future together in Comoros.
Renovation
While Wuridat worked as a teacher in Moroni, Amin set about the restoration of the landmark hotel. There was much to be done. “You would not believe the state it was in when we took over,” he tells me.
Still, Amin had a vision to turn Le Coelacanthe into the kind of luxury resort Comoros dearly needed.
While the archipelago has a multitude of natural attractions – tropical weather, paradisal beaches, volcanic peaks, unique wildlife and pristine
coral reefs – to draw international tourists, upscale accommodation options to house them are limited.
Amin knew the hotel already had a lot going for it. Its location is priceless with open views over the Indian Ocean – which is close enough for the sound of the surf to soundtrack your sleep at night – while still being in the heart of Moroni with its bustling souk just a short walk away. Then there is the 25-metre outdoor swimming pool. Amin and Wuridat both learned to swim here as have many young Moronians over the years.
Swimming pool
While I am enjoying breakfast one morning on the hotel’s terrace between pool and ocean, Wuridat tells me that despite Comoros being a country of islands and fishing from small, vulnerable wooden boats the leading way to earn a living, learning to swim is not a priority here. However, most days during my stay the pool is busy with local families making use of the swimming day-passes the hotel offers. One early morning I find the pool packed with the members of a local swim team in training for an upcoming competition abroad.
Amin ensures the biggest pool on the archipelago is well maintained for both athletes and guests. It is piped full of soft salt water straight from the ocean and every Monday it is emptied by hand – an all-day task for one diligent young employee and a bucket – before the tiles are scrubbed clean and more ocean water is let in for a new week.
Amin has targeted much of his development of the hotel around the centrepiece of the pool. Work is ongoing to convert the former bar and indoor dining area into a wellness spa and beauty parlour, offering, in tandem with some leisurely lengths of the pool, a great way for guests to unwind.
A new thatched roof bar and lounge area has been built between the pool and the ocean. There’s plenty of cosy cushioned seating to
enjoy sundowners with friends, but pride of place is given to the raised DJ booth, which is mission control of the legendary Le Coelacanthe club nights. Every Friday and Saturday, the hotel hosts parties that have transformed the nightclub scene in Grande Comore, bringing people from across the island and beyond to celebrate the weekend.
“Friday nights we get around 400 people. On Saturday it is between 200 and 300,” Amin says. So many clubbers that they seek out space around the pool and even spill onto the terrace’s higher tier above the spa-to-be. It makes for an electric atmosphere with dancing into the early hours fuelled by an eclectic music set-list that takes in Afrobeats, amapiano, reggae, hip-hop and even – a welcome surprise to this visiting Brit – UK drill rap. Amin and his team illuminate the event with LED lights wrapped around the resort’s towering palm trees with the luminance of the famous night sky in Comoros doing the rest. The Saturday night I am there, a perfect full moon hangs in the dark plum sky and I understand why the Arab seafaring traders in the 15th century gave the islands the name “Kamar” or “moon”.
Music nights
The music nights at Le Coelacanthe mean a lot to Amin. He might be called on to do the early school run as a father now, but much like the long-winged bats that soar as dark descends in Moroni, he is by nature a creature of the night. A regular on the clubbing scene in Paris, when Amin settled in Comoros, he wanted to foster a community here that embraced the world of modern dance music. Drawing on his musical connections in Paris, he has brought some major acts from the diaspora –including French Comorian rappers Rohff and Soprano – to play in Moroni. The cultural exchange also goes the other way with Amin organising gigs abroad for Comorian acts with the dates often the first time the artists have performed outside of their little-known island 290 km off
the eastern coast of Africa.
A prime example of Amin’s musical mentoring is Salim Djaffar, now better known as DJ Limsa. In 2019, Amin organised a competition to find the best DJ on the islands with the winner getting residency at the Coelacanthe dance parties he was about to launch.
Djaffar was just 21 at the time and had to borrow the US$ 20 for the boat ride from his native Anjouan – the trip was his first time off the island – to take part in the competition. Still, as soon as he started playing, Amin’s decision was made. He was struck by Djaffar’s mixing dexterity and his feel for a wide range of music. “The way he puts the sounds together is incredible,” he tells me. “He has become famous here for using all kinds of genres in his sets.”
Word spread fast on the talents of the newly christened DJ Limsa – the Arabic word for beauty seeming apt for the baby-faced Djaffar. Once he started helming the Le Coelacanthe nights, new clubbers and other DJs began turning up to see him in action. The talented drummer and dancer was a natural who didn’t seem phased by the established international acts Amin would sometimes bring in to share the bill. Soon clubs on the mainland were calling and DJ Limsa was booked for gigs in Tanzania – including Dar es Salaam’s Havoc nightclub – and Mozambique. Amin accompanied him and the hotelier maintains a fatherly sense of care for his protégé. When the three of us meet to nurse afternoon drinks in the shade of the hotel bar, Amin teases his DJ that he has to keep an eye on him “because the girls like him too much”. DJ Limsa looks the part with sports chunky gold chains hip-hop-style around his neck and
wrists. They were apparently given to him for free by a local jewellery store, happy to have the publicity of their products endorsed by someone of his celebrity status.
Amin’s role in DJ Limsa’s vaulting career trajectory is proof that his vision for the Le Coelacanthe’s success is anything but a selfish endeavour. “I am happy to be here in my country creating something for the people,” he tells me. DJ Limsa is just one of the 42-strong team Amin has put together to maximise the hotel’s operations. All staff appear invested in the vision, whether it’s housekeeping leaving fresh jasmine flowers and rose petals to scent your room, chefs creating incredible dishes from scratch with locally caught seafood and fresh produce and the drivers and guides that can get guests to attractions across Grande Comore such as 2,361-metrehigh volcanic peak Mount Karthala, the beach paradise of Mitsamiouli and mystical Lac Salé.
Team leader
Amin, a self-confessed “people person”, is in his element working with such a large team and on Saturday I see him effortlessly network through the crowds at the Le Coelacanthe club night. He tells me Comorians are “good people” – I certainly find them very welcoming while walking around bustling Moroni – but they can be hesitant to make the most of themselves. He is there, he says, to give them a push in the right direction and show them what is possible.
Amin has put together a 42-strong team to maximise the hotel's operations. All staff appear invested in his visionThe diving platform at the hotel's 25metre pool The coastal hotel is ideally placed for taking it some stunning sunsets
Self-starters such as Amin are just what Comoros needs, according to Nadjati Soidiki, the CEO of the National Agency on the Promotion of Investments (ANPI). “We have to be creative,” she says. The government body was set up in 2008 to promote investment in the country and aims to improve the business climate here for local entrepreneurs. Its work has gained traction in recent years with President Azali Assoumani coming to power in 2019 on a promise to stimulate economic growth.
Soidiki agrees to an interview at ANPI’s head offices in downtown Moroni where she tells me the agency is prioritising infrastructure and tourism on the islands.
The two often work together. On an earlier trip to the eye-rubbingly beautiful yet deserted beaches of Mitsamiouli, my driver and I appreciate a stretch of newly tarmacked road north of the airport – in marked contrast to the single carriageway road which weaves its weathered way south to Moroni and triggers some ‘creative’ overtaking from impatient motorists. The new road was built for construction firms involved in
the building of a new resort around the picturesque Galawa beach.
Investors have blown hot and cold on the project over the years, but Soidiki tells me international hotel brand Marriott is now attached with work on what would be the country’s first five-star-resort scheduled to be completed by the end of next year.
Soidiki says international investment is at its highest ever levels in Comoros with around $4bn successfully raised to finance the country’s development plan at a conference in Paris in 2019. The public-private projects vary from the setting up of two foreign private banks, through major road improvements to solar plants in Anjouan and Moheli .
The foreign investors have been enticed by a series of incentives introduced in 2007 then enhanced in 2021. These include no custom duties for a company’s first five to 15 years of operation, free transfer of capital and remunerations and complimentary legal representation in case of conflict.
Soidiki believes this new investment will provide an exponential boost in tourism here. “We want
200,000 tourists each year here by 2030,” she says. “At the moment we entertain around 40,000 who want a new experience. We have many of the same advantages as Zanzibar so it’s not unreasonable to target its levels of visitors.”
Adding value
There are signs that Comoros is making room for a new influx of visitors at the islands’ only international airport located around 20km north of Moroni. Soidiki says: “Five years ago, there was only one international airline – Kenya Airways – but now we have Egypt Air, Ethiopian Airlines and Air Tanzania.
“Currently we are in discussions with Emirates about organising flights here and extending the airport. Work is already happening on a smaller scale.”
The ANPI has also set about ensuring domestic companies get more than just a sniff of the financial returns from the “perfume islands’” biggest export, ylang ylang flowers, which scent many of the biggest sellers of the billion-dollar global perfume industry, including the iconic Chanel N° 5.
The agency has been helping local farmers add value to their crop with processing plants built on the plantations and the resulting ylang and vanilla essential oils and cosmetics sold under a new ‘Made in Comoros’ brand.
“We have programmes in place to help to transform their product,” says Soidiki. “Last year we went to Paris with 10 local managers to meet L’Oreal and other big parfumiers to conclude contracts. We are assisting 200 companies
We want 200,000 tourists here each year by 2030. We have many of the same advantages as Zanzibar so it's not unreasonable to target its level of visitors(Clockwise from left) The legendary Le Coelacanthe music nights, the 'Made in Comoros' range and the hotel's illuminated palm trees
in the sector and each are getting in the region of US$ 50,000 to help develop their product. We must be the incubators for these businesses.”
Quality tourism
Soidiki proudly shows me a trial batch of the ‘Made in Comoros’ products, all in branded, luxury packaging. It is clear they are aiming at the luxury market.”
“Most people think Madagascar when you say vanilla, but ours is better. It is organically grown, and we want to be considered as country that supports good-quality vanilla.”
The exclusive ‘Made in Comoros’ vanilla and ylang ylang products will be a part of the quality tourism package Soidiki believes the country will soon offer. Getting those first international chain hotels here
will bring it all a step closer. “If we have one or two big hotels on the islands it will be a huge boost. More families will come and that will in turn create more businesses for smaller family-run lodges here,” Soidiki says.
This is all music to Amin’s ears. He does not see that the possible arrival of major hotel companies in Comoros will overshadow his ventures, but rather he, like Soidiki, believes it will bring in more tourists who will appreciate what he is doing to revitalise Le Coelacanthe. To add to the hotel’s accommodation options of six beachside en-suite rooms, work is near completion on two new studio flats with a kitchenette for guests after longer stays as well as a larger apartment with one double bed and a three-tiered bunk to suit a family.
So just like its namesake fossil fish that proved reports of its death had
been greatly exaggerated, you can’t write off Le Coelacanthe hotel. It leads by example in Comoros and hopes the country on the cusp of a tourism transformation.
More information on the hotel can be found @lecoelacanthemoroni on Instagram.
Follow DJ Limsa @limsa_dit_le_pro
For details on the work of ANPI, visit investcomoros.net
INSPIRE GENERATIONS TO COME
Children’s
article he wrote about Tanzania's economy published when he was just 16 years old. I was so inspired by his achievement, and I wanted to do something equally remarkable. I decided that I would write a book that would impact the lives of young children in a positive way.
Creative challenge
those around me. My friends and family were there for me every step of the way, providing the encouragement I needed to keep going. They reminded me that my book could impact the lives of young children, and that was all the motivation I needed.
Writing a children’s book had been on my mind for over two years. It was an idea that I had been toying with for a long time but for some reason, I just couldn’t bring myself to start writing. It wasn't until last year that I finally decided to put my idea out there, despite the numerous challenges that I faced.
The motivation behind my decision to write a children's book was my older brother, who had an
The process of creating the book was nothing short of amazing. From coming up with the story and characters to designing the illustrations, I enjoyed every bit of it. However, it wasn’t without its challenges. There were moments when I felt like giving up, but I persevered. The thought of inspiring children and helping them develop positive habits such as never giving up, thinking outside the box, and cultivating friendships was enough to keep me going.
What encouraged me even more was the support I received from
The book is centred around the themes of friendship, never giving up and thinking outside the box. I believe these are critical concepts that children need to learn early in life, and that is why I chose to write about them. It is an excellent way to engage children and help them learn vital life skills that will serve them well into adulthood.
I’m also a teacher so it was also important that I came up with a story that would inspire my students. I wanted to provide them with a story that would not only entertain them but also help them learn valuable life lessons. Writing this book has
I wanted to create something that would
also allowed me to connect with my students on a deeper level and understand the challenges they face.
In addition to inspiring children and students, I also wanted to inspire others to pursue their dreams, especially women in Tanzania. I believe that everyone, regardless of their gender or background, should have the opportunity to achieve their dreams. Writing this book was a way for me to demonstrate that anything is possible if you are willing to work hard and persevere.
Inspiring a new generation
Lastly what drove me to complete this project was the desire to leave a legacy and a long-lasting impact. I wanted to create something that would be remembered long after I’m gone, something that would inspire and influence generations to come. By writing a children’s book, I feel like I'm leaving a piece of myself behind, something that can touch the lives of others and have a positive impact on the world. It is a way to contribute to society in a meaningful way and to make a difference in the lives of others, which is a deeply satisfying
and motivating feeling.
One of my primary goals was to have the book published in Tanzania and to see it become a part of the Tanzanian national heritage. It's a way to give back to my country and to help promote the importance of reading and education. I believe that every child in Tanzania should have access to high-quality literature that reflects their experiences and inspires their imagination, and I hope that my book can play a small part in making that a reality.
In conclusion, writing my first children's book has been an incredible
journey filled with challenges and rewards. I learned a lot about the process of writing and publishing a book, but most importantly, I discovered the power of perseverance and determination. My hope is that the book (and many more to come) will inspire and impact the lives of young children in Tanzania and beyond. I also hope that it will inspire other women to pursue their dreams and achieve great things.
'I believe that every child in Tanzania should have access to high-quality literature that reflects their experiences and inspires their imagination'Blow That Candle! is written by Samana Karim, Illustrated by Anastasia Honcharenko. To find out more visit @storiesbyskarimon on Instagram
THROW ON SOME SHADE
Keeping the sun off your face is a must in our tropical Tanzanian climate and the range of wide-brimmed hats from Asili by Naliaka offers some super stylish (and super-sized) options to keep your cool. The brand’s founder, Jael Naliaka Miluni , tells Twiga about her dramatic creations.
Wearing one of the enormous wide-brimmed hats that made the name of Tanzanian fashion brand Asili by Naliaka won’t win you any friends if you are entering a crowded elevator, but sport one while sauntering along a Tanzanian beach and you will be the height of shaded style. You can now complete the look with the brand’s range of similarly over-sized woven-reed fringed bags made by women artisans from Iringa as well as flowing Zanzibar kanga-print kaftans.
The brand’s founder, Jael Naliaka Miluni, created the statement look for herself, but soon found it stirred up curiosity in others. She says: “I’m a big fan of huge hats and the drama that comes with it. I designed one hat and one fringe bag just for me in the beginning then went on vacation to Zanzibar and I got massive compliments for them. People asked me where I got them and were shocked when I told them they were designed by me. It felt so good that people loved something that I made.”
To make the hats for her new-found clients, Jael worked with a milliner in Burundi to her designs while the bags are a collaboration with the women artisans of social company Vikapu Bomba, in Iringa. Demand has continued to grow with Jael able to extend her range of products and create an international market. “I have clients from all over. Now, I’ve actually sold more bags and hats to clients in Europe than I have in Tanzania.”
Jael loves that her customers – among them Tanzanian singer Hamisa Mobeto and Kenyan content creator Joy Kendi – share her penchant for head-turning fashion. “Fortunately, they are bold and care-free,” she says. “I remember one sent me a video of her wearing the hat at the airport and I laughed so hard but even the ones that are reserved in their fashion wardrobe are becoming more open minded.”
This is an exciting time for the brand with Jael confiding a new line of bags and hats “with a new twist” is coming soon. The new hats will be available in a range of sizes. “I realise some people prefer smaller ones and I’m here for them too.”
ASILI
To check out the range of hats, bags and kaftans and make an online order, visit @asiilibynaliaka on Instagram
Check out Lala’s
LONDON
With flights linking Dar es Salaam to the UK among Air Tanzania’s plans for 2023, Twiga spoke to London-based Nigerian Adeola Adeleke (known to her followers as 'Lala') about the lesser-known attractions she loves in the UK capital. Lala is an expert in unearthing hidden gems in her hometown and sharing them on her Instagram page (@lalas_likes) with many African travellers who rely on her to curate the best time in Blighty.
Afternoon Tea Corinthia London Hotel
Afternoon Tea is a classic British pastime and one of life’s great luxuries. The Corinthia Hotel knows how to do it in style with its Crystal Moon Lounge illuminated by a spectacular Baccarat Chandelier and diners treated to uplifting melodies from a pianist on a Steinway Piano.
The bustle of the city is soon forgotten here as time slows down to enjoy this indulgent treat with an expert Tea Master there to infuse your choice of tea blend accompanied by delicious sandwiches and cakes.
Quaglino’s
An iconic restaurant and bar that has been synonymous with style and glamour since it was first opened in 1929. It is tucked away within the exclusive central London neighbourhood of St James and is one of the coolest places in the capital for some fancy food and live music seven nights a week.
The menu is made up of a host of European classics, all made using the highest quality British ingredients. The restaurant transforms into a late-night, live-music one of the only venues in Mayfair open late-night and perfect for partying into the early hours.
Amazonico London
Amazónico London takes diners on a multi-sensory exploration of the Amazon rainforest with lush indoor greenery and interiors by internationally renowned artist Lázaro Rosa-Violan inspired by the natural landscapes of South America.
The food is also an adventure. The menu blends tropical and Latin American cuisines taking in everything from Peruvian sushi to South American chupe and a lot of Josper-grilled meats.
Open for lunch and with live band performances to entertain diners in the main restaurant, while a resident DJs play ‘electro-pical’ sounds in the bar.
Bustronome London
London’s iconic red Routemaster buses are everywhere, but you won’t find another like this. The Bustronome is a high-end double-decker bus that has been converted into a fine-dining restaurant with panoramic views of London. Your meal includes a full audio guide to reveal London’s historic sights as you drive by. Get onboard for an experience you’ll never forget.
Alto by San Carlo
San Carlo has brought its world-renowned, chic Italian style to the rooftop of London’s world-famous department store, Selfridges. This spectacular hideaway has a morning-to-night menu of seasonal Italian dishes, from the finest seafood and pasta to grilled specialties, seasonal salads and authentic gelato desserts. Open Thursday to Sunday for breakfast, you'll find classics like pancakes, as well as healthier (but equally delicious) dishes on the menu. Set high above the hustle and bustle, escape the city and enjoy drinks at the bar on the alfresco sun terrace, in a stunning Italian garden setting or dinner in the restaurant.
Nine Lounge
Luxury restaurant Nine on the ninth floor of the Radisson Red hotel in trendy Greenwich offers diners a fusion of Asian cuisines with dishes including its award-winning lamb chops. The view is just as spectacular as the food with panoramic views over the rapidly gentrifying east side of the city.
The food is Halal and no alcohol is served, but there is a fantastic selection of mocktails with bartenders craft delicious drinks with an obsessive eye for detail. The design is a combination of modern customs with contemporary culture –fitting for a relaxed ambience.
The Tiffany Blue Box Cafe at Harrods
Ever dreamt of breakfast at Tiffany’s? Coffee, croissants and carats… the height of glamour. This is the exclusive jeweller’s only café outside of Fifth Avenue, New York, and is the place to go to enjoy flat whites from Tiffany-blue cups, surrounded by Tiffany jewels, amazonite stone features and hand-painted Tiffany motifs. And for breakfast, the all-butter croissant comes with a choice of eggs Florentine, Cornish crab muffins, Faroe Islands-smoked salmon, as well as other mouth-watering options.
It is another decadent afternoon tea option with Tiffany Tea, featuring dainty finger sandwiches with a luxury twist, freshly baked scones and a beautiful selection of patisserie.
Sunborn London Yacht Hotel
This floating super yacht in London’s Docklands provides one of the city’s most memorable accommodation and entertainment experiences. All rooms have wonderful views of the River Thames and are full of luxury amenities such as flatscreen TVs, Wi-Fi and touch-pad room controls. There's an upscale restaurant serving British fusion cuisine and a sleek bar and a day spa perfect for a getaway in the heart of London.
Wine tasting at Jeroboams Knightsbridge
What’s more enjoyable than sampling a new wine or one of the all-time great vintages in a cosy cellar in the heart of London’s Knightsbridge?
Take a trip to Jeroboams for an in-depth look at the world’s most prestigious wine regions and sub-regions, exploring the nuance and subtleties that make the wines from places such as Pauillac, Tuscany, and the Napa Valley so revered.
The wine merchant also runs regular Champagne and Cheese tasting events with a selection of prestigious sparkling wines accompanied by cheeses from the company’s own delicatessen in affluent London neighbourhood Holland Park.
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Ndoa ya Saa 24
A 24-Hour Marriage
The latest story, exclusive to Twiga, from Tanzanian Swahili writer’s collective Uwaridi comes from new member Agnes Emanuel Mgonji. Her cautionary tale involves a young bride who soon comes to realise her groom loves her not for who she is but for who she looks like.
Mboni alifumbua macho. Alichukua simu yake ya mkononi na kuangalia muda. Saa kumi na dakika tatu alfajiri.
Mboni alifumbua macho. Alichukua simu yake ya mkononi na kuangalia muda. Saa kumi na dakika tatu alfajiri.
Hakukuchi tu! Bado saa tatu zaidi? Muda hauendi kabisa! Alijisemea moyoni.
Alianza kuchezea simu yake kwa sekunde kadhaa akiwa pale kitandani. Macho yake yakagota kwenye picha ya mateka wa moyo wake, Darius. Aliikumbatia simu yake kana kwamba ndiyo ameikumbatia tunu iliyobeba uhai wake, huku akitabasamu mithili ya mwendawazimu.
Ama kweli, mapenzi uchizi! Alijawa na hamu kubwa ya kuisherekea sherehe yake ya pili ambayo aliamini haitajirudia kamwe.
Mboni alikuwa mrembo wa kutosha kuwatoa kapa warembo wengine wowote duniani iwapo angeamua kuingia kwenye mashindano ya urembo.
Saa tatu baadaye, alikuwa saluni maarufu ipendelewayo na watu mashuhuri akipambwa kwa unyenyekevu huku mpambe wake akihakikisha kuwa kila kitu kinaenda sawa, huku yeye akitabasamu wakati wote. Hatimaye, hayawi hayawi, sasa yamekuwa.
Siku ya ndoa yake ilikuwa imewadia, na kwa namna fulani alijiona kama yuko ndotoni tu. Akiwa pale saluni, mumewe
mtarajiwa alimpigia simu na maongezi yao yalimthibitishia kuwa hakika hakuwa ndotoni.
“Halo Sunshine, hatimaye siku yetu imefika.’’ Darius alimwambia.
“Yaani hata siamini kabisa.’’
“Naomba uamini Mboni. Wewe ni mwanamke wa ndoto zangu na leo tutakuwa mke na mume halali, maana yake tutakuwa pamoja daima.’’
Ndoa yake na Darius Alfred Shedafa, mwanaume mtanashati mwenye mvuto na mkwanja wa kutosha, ilitimia.
kinywa wazi kwa butwaa. Alitazama picha ile kwa dakika nyingi mpaka aliposhtushwa na ujio wa Mboni, ndipo alipoiweka simu kitandani.
“Babe, naomba nitoke nje mara moja nipate fresh air’’ Darius alisema kwa sauti ya mkwaruzo.
“Honey, Uko sawa kweli? Twende wote, au?’’
Walishawasili hotelini saa saba usiku wakitokea ukumbini. Mboni akiwa msalani, Darius alikuwa anaperuzi mitandao ya kijamii kupitia simu yake ya mkononi, akiweka picha za matukio ya sherehe yao, na akijibu pongezi kutoka kwa ndugu, jamaa na marafiki. Katika pitapita zake mitandaoni, macho yake yanagota kwenye kurasa wa Instagram wa Miss Universe, ambapo saa chache zilizopita, ukurasa ule ulikuwa umemtangaza mshindi wa shindano hilo la kumsaka mrembo wa ulimwengu, lililofanyikia Uchina. Picha ya mrembo huyo iliyowekwa kwenye akaunti hiyo, ilimwonesha mrembo akitabasamu huku ameshikilia shada kubwa la maua, na kichwani akiwa amevikwa taji, ilimwacha
“Hapana, usijali. Nitarudi.’’
“Sawa.’’
Alipoondoka hakurudi.
Mboni alimsubiri akiwa amejitayarisha kukutana na mumewe kwa mara ya kwanza, akiwa amejiegesha pale kitandani hadi akapitiwa na usingizi. Aliposhtuka ilikuwa alfajiri.
“Kumbe hajarudi? Na simu ameacha? Darius, uko wapi?’’Aliwaza.
Baada ya kumsaka huku na huko bila mafanikio, aliishia nyumbani kwa akina
Darius. Nao hawakuwa wamemuona. Mboni na wakwe zake wakaamua kwenda polisi. “Hapana. Tusiite polisi…’’ Diana, dadake Darius, aliingilia kati.
“Kwanini?’’ Mboni alihoji.
“Naweza kuhisi Darius alipo, lakini nitaomba niende na Mboni peke yake. Msiite polisi mpaka tutakaporudi please.’’
Diana alimfikisha Mboni kwenye nyumba ndogo lakini ya kifahari. Kwenye moja ya vyumba vya nyumba ile, Mboni alipigwa butwaa kuona kuta cha chumba kile zikiwa zimetapakaa picha zenye sura yake. Kulikuwa na picha takribani 50 zenye ukubwa wa A3. Alikodoa macho zaidi kwa kutoamini alipomwona mumewe, Darius, akiwa ameketi kwenye kiti hali akiwa kwenye usingizi mzito.
“We Darius! Mbona umebandika picha zangu zote hizi ukutani?’’ Alimhoji huku akiendelea kuzitazama zile picha, lakini ndipo alipogundua kuwa yule mwanamke wa kwenye zile picha hakuwa yeye kama alivyodhani. Nguo ni tofauti. Namna yake ya kuitazmaa kamera ni tofauti, Maeneo picha zilipopigwa ni tofauti pia.
Hizi sio picha zangu, hizi… si miye huyu. Hu… huyu mwanamke ni nani?
“Darius, huyu ni nani? Na kwanini uko hapa?’’ Mboni alihoji huku akimtikisa Darius. Darius aligutuka kama mtu aliyekuwa akiota ndoto ya kukimbizwa na jinamizi.
“Tayana!?’’ Aliropoka kwa mshtuko huku akimkodolea macho Mboni.
“Ta, Tayana? Darius una nini? Tayana ni nani?’’ Mboni alihoji.
Darius alipatwa na kigugumizi. Aliwatazama Mboni na Diana kwa zamu, bila majibu. Macho yake yalikuwa mekundu, ikiashiria kuwa alionesha alilia mpaka machozi yakamkauka.
“Darius, mwambie Mboni ukweli sasa. Ana kila haki ya kujua ukweli.’’ Diana alisema.
“Ukweli upi? Darius mbona huongei?’’ Mboni alizidi kutoelewa.
Ndipo kwa taabu, Darius alipomjuza kuwa alifunga ndoa naye kwa kuwa alifanana mno na mpenzi wake wa awali, Tayana, ambaye picha zake ndizo zilizoupamba
ule ukuta. Hakuweza kumwoa kwa kuwa Tayana hakuwa tayari kuizika ndoto yake ya kugombea taji la urembo wa ulimwengu hivyo akaamua kuhamia ughaibuni kuisaka ndoto yake.
Mboni alichanganyikiwa.
“Darius! Unasahau kuwa umenioa jana tu? Mimi ni mkeo, na ulisema unanipenda sana! Ulisema mimi ni dunia yako… kuwa ni mwanamke wa ndoto zako!’’
Macho yalimzunguka Darius.
“Na, najua Mboni. Ila…ila… nahisi nahitaji muda kuyatafakari haya yote.’’ Alimjibu kwa kutojielewa.
Mboni alimzaba kofi la uso kwa jazba, kisha akaondoka kwa hasira dhidi ya ndoa ile aliyoifunga saa 24 tu zilizopita
Kila mtu anatarajia kuwa siku moja atafikia kilele cha ndoto yake, ila si mara zote hutokea kwa ndoto za watu wawili tofauti zikawa sawa.
About the author
Agnes Emanuel Mgoji ni mwanauwaridi na mtunzi wa riwaya za hadithi za kusimumua hususani kuhusu maisha ya vijana yanayoakisi. Miongoni mwa kazi zake ni “Malkia Wa Uzuri”, “Fukuto La Penzi” na “More Than Everything” ambayo inapatikana kwenye tovuti ya vitabu vya gamba laini ya Amazon Kindle. Sambamba na utunzi wa riwaya, Agnes ni mhamasishaji na mwanaharakati katika kumkomboa kifikra msichana anayekabiliwa na vizingiti na vikwazo kwenye harakati za kufikia ndoto zake, ambaye yeye hupandikiza mawazo chanya kwa wasichana wengi. Riwaya zake za “Malkia Wa Uzuri” na “More Than Everything” zimesawiri masuala ya ukatili wa kijinsia dhidi ya wasichana.
Agnes Emanuel Mgonji is the author of four literary works, including one in English titled ‘More than Everything’, which is currently available on Amazon Kindle. Agnes is also a social worker dedicated to the fight against gender violence towards women – a subject that dominates her novels ‘More than Everything’ and ‘Malkia wa Uzuri’.
Co-ownership of property: an emerging trend in Tanzania
With co-ownership of property on the rise, Rayson Elijah Luka, practicing advocate at Victory Attorneys & Consultants based in Dar es Salaam, calls for moves to make it a more straightforward legal process.
In US novelist Margaret Mitchell’s world-famous novel Gone with the Wind she has one of her characters say: “Land is the only thing in the world that amounts to anything for, it is the only thing in this world that lasts, it is the only thing worth working for, worth fighting for, worth dying for.”
With land holding such importance, it follows that it will also be the cause of many disputes. Here, the law steps in to mitigate, for example, to avoid disputes for spouses, the law allows them to own landed property jointly. This means on the death of either spouse the ownership of the land automatically rests with the surviving spouse. The law also allows land ownership under tenancy in common where each individual occupier owns undivided shares. One of the advantages of land ownership under tenancy in common is that parents may wish to give a portion of the landed property to their children while they still have access to it.
Joint Occupancy/ Joint Tenancy
Section 159 (1) of the Land Act recognises land can be owned jointly, but it must be undivided. It further specifies that the co-occupancy of landed property allowed in Tanzania may be either joint occupancy or occupancy in common.
This is the type of co-occupancy by more than one person of undivided landed property in which owners do not have specific shares. In this kind of ownership, upon the demise of one of the owners, the interest of such land automatically passes
to the surviving occupier. Under this type of co-occupancy, a joint occupier may transfer his interest therein inter vivos (between the living) only to the co-occupier and if any disposition is to be made, then it must be made jointly by joint occupiers. Although other people apart from spouses may create this kind of ownership, the leave of court must first be obtained.
Grey Area
Currently, the straightforward practice to register the Joint Tenancy is only made during application for a granted right of occupancy where the application forms give room to indicate both spouse names as joint owners. On the other hand, if one of the spouses is already a holder of the right of occupancy and wishes to join a spouse as a joint owner, the process is more complicated as there is no specific form to join the spouse. In practice, one has to invoke section 52 of the Land Registration Act. It's a complicated process and, in our opinion, an unnecessary one that needs to be changed.
Tenancy in Common/ Occupancy in Common/ Co-ownership
This mode of ownership is the opposite of joint tenancy. Under occupancy in common, the co-occupiers jointly own undivided landed property but there are defined shares of the co-owned property. Section 159 (3) (b) of the Land Act provides that under occupancy in common, shares in the property are defined. Occupancy
in common is a slightly more flexible arrangement as:
i. Each occupier is entitled to his undivided shares.
ii. Upon the death of one co-occupier, the undivided share shall be treated as part of the deceased occupier’s Estate capable of bequest to his heirs other than the surviving occupier.
iii. A co-occupier can transfer her/ his undivided shares to the fellow co-occupier (s).
iv. A co-occupier can transfer her/ his undivided shares to another person but with the consent of the co-occupier.
Grey Area
This type of co-ownership is not free from legal hurdles. Issues arise when the registered holder of the right of occupancy wishes to join another person as a co-owner.
Victory Attorneys & Consultants believes it is time for the law to be looked at to modify and customise the practice of co-ownership in terms of registration and taxation.
This article is not intended to provide legal advice but to provide general information on the matter covered. Victory Attorneys & Consultants shall not be responsible for any loss in the event this Article is relied upon without first seeking our professional advice.
You can call Victory Attorneys & Consultants on +255 752 089 685 or email info@victoryattorneys.co.tz.
THE BEST WATERPROOF TECH
The long wet season is upon us, but it doesn’t have to rain on your tech parade. Here’s a selection of waterproof gadgets to help you on damp days.
NUKA Notebook
The fact that this just-released notebook is waterproof is just the beginning of its innovative features. If you drop it in the pool or tip a cup of tea over it, the tear-proof pages simply wipe clean while the notes or drawing you were working on remain intact. That’s thanks to its ‘eternal’ silver pencil with its alloy tip that oxidises the paper’s surface to leave its mark and never needs sharpening. If you like what you’ve written, then simply take a picture with your phone using the accompanying app and it is archived for whenever you need it again. As for your words on the paper, one wipe from the Nuka eraser and they vanish, ready for the next time inspiration hits. It is the only notebook you’ll ever need.
Where to buy: nuka.me
Price: Starting at US$ 39 Nuka
BANG & OLUFSEN Beoplay E8 Sport
These lightweight earbuds will keep providing you with Bang & Olufsen’s trademark rich, powerful sound on your runs even if you get up caught in a downpour or are working up a serious sweat. Their IP57 waterproof protection – meaning they can be submerged in up to a metre of water and keep performing – brings peace of mind of wet days and they will keep you motivated on even the longest runs with a single charge providing up to seven hours of continuous playing.
Where to buy: bang-olufsen.com
Price: Starting at US$ 249 Bang & Olufsen
KOBO
Libra 2 waterproof e-reader
This 7-inch e-reader is fully waterproof so you can get your fiction fix at the pool, the park or even the bathtub. If you want to give your eyes a rest (not that its glare-free screen is going to tax your peepers too much) it has built-in Bluetooth so you can listen to audiobooks or podcasts. With 32GB of storage, there’s plenty of space to download your favourites from Kobo’s eBookstore. Quick response page-turn buttons ensure multitasking bookworms only need one hand free to keep reading their latest gripping novel.
Where to buy: ukkokobooks.com
Price: Starting at US$ 205
Rakuten Kobo eReader Store
BOSE
Soundlink Micro Bluetooth speaker
This waterproof and extreme temperature-proof speaker is built for the outdoors, rain or shine –perfect for storms and sunshine of a Tanzanian wet season. It is small enough to take with you wherever you go, but it delivers a sound big enough to rock a pop-up party. It comes with a tear-resistant strap so tie it to a deckchair for beach sounds or your bike handlebar to soundtrack your cycling. You can even pair it with other, bigger Bose Bluetooth speakers for real blockrocking beats.
Where to buy: bose.co.uk
Price: Starting at US$ 145 Bose Corporation
VENTURE PAL 40L backpack
If you are out and about and want to protect your vulnerable tech such as laptop and camera from the elements, this fully waterproof backpack will keep them dry no matter how torrential the storm. It is made from high-quality tear and water-resistant nylon and despite only weighing just over 300g it can carry heavy loads with bar-tacks fitted at major stress points. Whether you are in the city or out in the wild, this bag has your belongings covered.
Where to buy: amazon.com
Price: Starting at US$ 65 Amazon
The legacy of Tinga Tinga
Faysal Alao is a vlogger and tour operator from Tanzania living in Arusha. He uploads regular videos about his experiences and everyday lifestyle on his YouTube channel, ‘Lifestyle of Faysal’. You can also keep up with him on Snapchat @faysal_alao and Instagram @callmefays
In the 1960s, a sisal labourer in Tanga called Edward Tingatinga moved to Dar es Salaam and saw an entrepreneurial opportunity to cater for the hundreds of tourists he found there. His simple idea of utilising recycled, low-cost materials such as Masonite squares, ceramic fragments, and bicycle paint to create a unique style of African art, quickly attracted attention for their colourful, both naive and surrealistic style. Today, Tingatinga arts remain the best-selling art works in the country. But how did that fame come about?
Tanzania’s vast wilderness areas such as the plains of Serengeti National Park – which hosts one of the largest terrestrial mammal migrations in the world – and the Kilimanjaro National Park, home to Africa’s highest mountain, brings in hordes of tourists each year and provides rich landscapes for artists to capture.
What Tingatinga did that was so unique, was not just come up with a style of painting but share his skills with others. When he died in 1972, his style was already so popular that it had started a wide movement of imitators and followers, informally referred to as the Tingatinga school. This in turn gave a growing population a source of income as majority were not qualified for jobs due to lack of education.
Today, the bold art form has developed across East Africa and in Tanzania, operates officially under the Tingatinga Arts Cooperative Society. Even though its main objective is to promote the lively, magical, and unique beauty of Tanzanian culture, it also operates as a painting school for the Tingatinga style and promotes art sales internationally to enable its members to earn their living.
MUSIC REVIEWS
Sound and vision
Mark Edwards rounds up the latest releases to stream, screen and read MADE
FOR US / Harmonize
The music maker from Mtwara, Harmonize, is back with his third album, packed with recent hits such as ‘Amelowa’, ‘Nitaubeba’ and ‘Miss Bantu’ as well as a host of brand-new songs. The 14-track release contains more evidence of the singer’s growing love for Amapiano dance beats, closing out with ‘Too Much’ in which Harmonize’s feather-light delivery does battle with the gruff rap of South African singer and sometime movie star Ntoshi Gazi over a deep and dark groove. Other collaborators on the album include Jamaican dancehall singer Spice, singer Bruce Melodie from Rwanda, Australian musical auteur Nak and Tanzanians multi-instrumentalist Abby Chams and music and dance collective Mabantu.
FILM REVIEWS
The hugely popular noir-action franchise returns with the price on the head of Keanu Reeves’ titular rogue assassin going stratospheric. To gain his freedom once and for all he seeks out the most powerful players in the global underworld. The body count and Wick’s frequent flyer points rack up as he despatches adversaries from New York to Paris to Japan to Berlin. Expect plenty of spectacular fight scenes and sardonic asides from the fearless – and seemingly ageless – Wick.
BOOK REVIEWS CALL AND RESPONSE / Gothataone Moeng
Rising African writer Moeng’s assured collection of short stories evokes contemporary life in Botswana’s capital, Gaborone, and Serowe, the village where she grew up. Most of the tales chart the emotional journeys of women whose ambitions in the modern world come into conflict with traditional customs and expectations. A young widow coming to the end of her year spent in mourning clothes considers the meaning behind the custom and whether she is ready to stop hiding behind them. An older sister returning home from a confusing time spent in America is met with questions on why she’s left the land of opportunity. A younger sister keeps her sexual experiences secret while her brother boasts of his infidelity.
IMANI NA AMANI’ / Zily
If you were lucky enough to attend the recent Sauti za Busara in Stone Town, Zanzibar, you’ll know all about Zily. The singer, born in Mayotte in the Comoros islands, was one of the stars of the African music festival’s second night combining empowering lyrics and music that draws from her exotic lineage – her father is from Madagascar and her mother is French. Many songs from the live show that so entranced festival-goers appear on Zily’s debut album, ‘Imani na Amani’ – which translates from Swahili as ‘Faith and Peace’. The singer and label boss – the album is released on her own Yeka Music – is the embodiment of a strong modern woman, but many songs here praise the island’s strong sense of family and community that have been invaluable in shaping her. ‘Zaina’ is a tribute song to her mother while the irresistible ‘Tsika’ celebrates the blissful simplicity of her Mahoran childhood.
In October last year Lilian Hipolyte became the executive director of Dar es Salaam creative community Nafasi Arts Space and – we are very pleased to say – she is also now Twiga’s new arts columnist. Here she discusses the importance of freedom to an artist.
Feel Free to Create
Do you enjoy creating for the sake of creating? I once enjoyed the process of creating art for art's sake. As a young and naive art student I would spend hours painting in the art room. At some point during my artistic pursuit, reality hit. Did I want to be like the many famous, but broke, artists I had read about dependent on patronage from family members? However, I managed to shut these concerns off, kept up with my studies and forged a career in the arts.
PATHAAN / Siddharth Anand
A terrorist group is plotting a massive-scale attack on India and suave spy Pathaan is the only man who can save the country. The title character is played by Indian mega-star Shah Rukh Khan or ‘King Khan’ to his millions of fans. It has been four years since his last screen outing and anticipation is at fever pitch. Khan is now 57 but he is still in action hero shape. The man is a monument to collagen supplementation with the muscled physique and flowing locks of a man half his age. It’s a physical role as Pathaan takes down enemies, jumps on moving vehicles, abseils down skyscrapers and charms women while taking on the terrorists, led by the equally ripped John Abraham. The arrival of Deepika Padukone as a combat-adept female agent provides welcome relief to this testosterone-fuelled face-off.
THE CASE FOR CANCEL CULTURE / Ernest Owens
Cancel culture – in which people judged to have acted or spoken in an unacceptable manner are shunned – has overwhelmed society in the past few years. For its detractors, it is a toxic online trend that threatens free speech, yet here openly gay black journalist Ernest Owens presents it as a crucial protest tool for marginalised groups to hold to account the offences of problematic public figures. Owens digs into history to show that the supposed social media-instigated phenomenon has been around for a long time with his list of historical cancellations going back to the American colonialists’ defiance towards their British rulers at the Boston Tea Party in 1773. He argues a convincing case for how this form of collective activism can make the powerful accountable.
Funding is always a sticky subject that surfaces in discussions and the daily life of today’s artists. There is a lack of freedom with most funded projects globally, not just in Tanzania. It’s a competitive landscape riddled with constraints that end up compromising the artistic outcomes and forcing artists to create art for funding's sake.
When artists are free to create, they can bring positive change to their immediate communities, influence better governance, create resilient societies, effect social change and shape tomorrow’s world.
Today, after years in the sector, I believe in the economic empowerment art offers. I believe in being able to dream. I believe in the marketing of arts and having life goals as an artist. I believe in the bottom line like any other business. I believe in all that because I believe in being able to thrive as a creator and artistic practitioner.
Nafasi Art Space strives to strengthen the creative ecosystem in Tanzania by building the professional skills and networks of artists and increasing appreciation for the arts. In line with these goals, we are pleased to announce the third open call for proposals under the 2023 Feel Free grant and incubation programme, in which we are supported by the Embassy of Switzerland in Tanzania and the Royal Norwegian Embassy.
I would like to invite anyone in the art and cultural sector in Tanzania to apply for the programme so that they can freely implement creative projects that benefit Tanzanian artists and audiences alike. I do this because I believe in being able to create art for art's sake.
Follow our current Grantees on Instagram/Facebook/Twitter: @nafasiartspace
WORD SEARCH
BANANA
CHAMELEON COCONUT
CROCODILE
ELEPHANT FLAMINGO
GIRAFFE
HIPPO
HOOPOE
LEMUR
LION
MONKEY
PARROT
PALMTREE
SLOTH
TIGER
TOUCAN
DOT TO DOT
Follow the dots to finish the image and see whats hiding in the picture
SPOT THE DIFFERENCE
Find the five differences between the first and second pictures of the giraffe below
Sign up to Twiga Miles now and get 1,000 free points!
There’s never been a better time to take advantage of Twiga Miles, Air Tanzania’s loyalty programme, with all new members who sign up before May 19 this year getting a welcome pack of 1,000 points as soon as they take their first flight.
And that’s just the beginning of your savings as every subsequent flight you take will earn you more points, which can all be redeemed towards future free flights across Air Tanzania’s domestic and international network of destinations. The amount of points you will earn depends on your ticket type, fare class and destination.
As a Twiga Miles member each flight you take will also help you climb through the ranks of our tier system. With each tier upgrade, you’ll get access to even more varied and valuable benefits.
So, what are you waiting for? Sign up at www.airtanzania.co.tz now.
FAQS
How do I enrol?
Visit airtanzania.co.tz or contact our call centre on 0800 110 045
Will I get a membership card?
Cards will be issued to Silver Selous and Gold Serengeti members.
How long does it take for my points to be transferred to my account?
Your points will have been transferred
BLUE
Start earning points towards a free flight with Air Tanzania.
Member Benefits
SILVER SELOUS
Members will earn 25% more points than Blue members on each flight they take.
Free extra 5kg baggage allowance on domestic flights
Priority check-in at Dar, Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar airports
Priority membership baggage tags that ensure your bags are first on conveyor belt at your destination
GOLD SERENGETI
Members will earn 50% more points than Blue members on each flight they take.
Free extra 10kg baggage allowance on domestic flights
Priority check-in at Dar, Kilimanjaro and Zanzibar airports
Priority membership baggage tags that ensure your bags are first on conveyor belt at your destination
to your account no later than 72 hours following your flight.
How long do my points remain valid?
Until the end of the third calendar year following the date you earned them. For example, points earned in June 2021 remain valid till the end of 2024.
How can I spend my points?
You can spend your points by clicking
on “Use My Points to Buy” section under the payment options tab for the tickets you are going to buy on our website at www.airtanzania.co.tz
Twiga Miles is only for passengers aged 18 and above. The scheme applies to all Air Tanzania destinations. Air Tanzania reserves the right to amend the terms and conditions of the campaign. All users participating in the campaign are deemed to have read and accepted these rules.
Before take-off
1 Before departing, it is important to check the airline’s website for its hand luggage rules: weight, sizes and types of objects you can take on board. For example, as regards liquids, you are advised to carry these in your hand luggage, only in transparent, reseal able, plastic containers, not exceeding 100 ml. In this section, you will find information regarding the hand luggage permitted on your flights; if you have connection flights, we advise that you also check the websites of other airlines.
2 Arriving at the airport in advance (at least two hours for domestic flights and three hours for international flights)
will enable you to check in and board your flight calmly, without anxiety and without unexpected last-minute issues.
3 Check in online, if possible. If travelling with hand luggage alone, you can check in online and print or download your boarding pass which you must take with you directly to security checks. This will enable you to save precious time once at the airport and to go to the gate calmly. For further information, please visit the dedicated page.
4 Set your mobile to flight mode, as well as other devices connected to the internet that you are taking on board.
AIR TANZANIA FLEET
Cabin crew will remind you of this step before take-off. With flight mode set, you can still take photos of your unforgettable journey and you can also enjoy the in-flight entertainment system! To find out more, please visit the dedicated section.
5 If you suffer from motion sickness… you will only find out about it during your first flight! To prevent sickness from ruining your first flight on a plane, we advise you to take natural remedies, such as, for example, ginger tablets or gum to chew. Ginger is believed to have a anti-nausea properties. Otherwise, ask your doctor to prescribe you antihistamines with a sedative effect.
6 Enjoy the view! By choosing a seat near the window, you will see breath-taking landscapes and you can take photos of the exquisite white clouds you will be flying above.
7 Try to take a nap. Sleeping on the plane will make time pass faster and you will arrive at your destination calm and rested.
8 Lastly, especially during take-off and landing, the change in pressure inside the cabin may cause discomfort in your ears. To prevent this discomfort, you are advised to stay awake during these manoeuvres and to chew gum or wear earplugs.
National carrier Air Tanzania is justifiably proud of its revamped six-strong fleet. Here we take a close-up look at our aircraft with technical data and specifications.
DE HAVILLAND CANADA DASH 8-Q400
Number of aircraft available:
5 De Havilland Canada
Seat capacity: (3 De Havilland Canada) Business Class 6, Economy 70, (1 De Havilland Canada)
Business class 10, Economy 68
Number of flight-deck crew: 2
Range: 2,063 km (1,362 Nm)
Typical cruising speed: up to 360 knots (414 mph or 667 km/hr)
Wingspan: 93 ft 3 in (28.4 m)
Length: 107 ft 9 in (32.8 m)
AIRBUS 220-300 (CS300)
Number of aircraft available: 4
Seat capacity: Business Class 12 and 120 Economy Class
Number of flight-deck crew: 2
Range: 6,112 km (3,300 Nm)
Typical cruising speed: 470 knots (541 mph or 871 km/hr)
Thrust per engine at sea level: 23,300 lbf / 103.6 kN
Wingspan: 115 ft 1 in (35.1 m)
Length: 127 ft (38.7 m)
Interior cabin width: 129 inches (3.28 m)
BOEING 787-8 DREAMLINER
Number of aircraft available: 2
Seat capacity: Business Class 22 and 240 Economy Class
Number of flight-deck crew: 2
Range: 13,621 km (7,355 Nm)
Typical cruising speed: 488 knots (561 mph or 903 km/hr)
Thrust per engine at sea level: 64,000 lbf / 280 kN
Wingspan: 197 ft 3 in (60.12 m)
Length: 186 ft 1 in (56.72 m)
Interior cabin width: 18 ft 0 inch (5.49 m)
Taking your first flight is certainly exciting, but can also become a source of stress for those who are unfamiliar with the rules, procedures and customs of flying. To prepare yourself for your first flight, it is therefore important to get information on everything you need to do before and during your journey. Here is a useful pre-departure checklist.
FREE BAGGAGE ALLOWANCE
Air Tanzania has a free allowance for passengers’ baggage across economy and business class. For full details and rates please see our website www.airtanzania.co.tz or contact booking enquiries
0800 110045
hours ahead of your flight time for domestic flights and three hours for international flights.
Family travel Fares for infants and children
that all expectant mothers consult a doctor before booking their ticket and inquire about their fitness to fly the length of the trip they intend to take.
Child fare baggage allowance
Children and infants travelling on a child fare are eligible for the same baggage allowance as adults.
Wheelchairs
Passports and visas
A valid passport or travel document that is valid for at least six months is required to enter the United Republic of Tanzania.
Visitors will also require a valid visa upon arrival. There are a range of visas available depending on the nature and frequency of your visits, but a single entry visa can be obtained on arrival in Tanzania subject to the fulfilment of all immigration requirements. There is a US$ 50 charge for the visa. For a full list of visas available and for countries for which special terms exist, visit the Air Tanzania website.
Check-in
Check in online, if possible. If travelling with hand luggage alone, you can check in online and print or download your boarding pass, which you must take with you directly to security checks. You should check in two
As a general rule, children up to two years old are not required to have their own seat and are allowed to travel on parents’ lap. An infant tickets costs 10 per cent of the regular fare. Depending on the destination, taxes and fees may apply. Please note that only 1 baby per adult is accepted. You can choose to buy a seat for your baby at the reduced rates for children if any children’s rate is applicable.
If your child is older than two years or turns two while you are travelling, you will have to book a separate seat for him or her and book the children fare for the entire journey. If a child travels with an accompanying adult in the same class of cabin, the child should be seated in the same seat row as the accompanying adult. Where this is not possible, the child should be seated no more than one seat row or aisle away. Reduced rates apply for children aged two to 11 on most routes, depending on the travel class. Children turning 12 years en route need to be booked as adults for the entire journey.
Expectant mothers
Our priority is always your safety and that of your unborn child.
To avoid unnecessary risks to you and your baby, we recommend
Depending on the stage and circumstances of your pregnancy, you may be required to present certain medical forms before flying. For your own safety and the well-being of your child, Air Tanzania will not accept expectant mothers who are pregnant from their 34th week or beyond.
UMNR (children travelling alone)
If you’re planning for your child to travel alone, we’re here to make sure they enjoy their trip and that they are well taken care of throughout their journey.
When you book our unaccompanied minor service, your child will be received at the originating airport, taken care of during transit and while on board the aircraft. He or she will be handed over to the person designated by the parents/ guardians upon arrival at the final destination.
Cost
To avail the unaccompanied minor service, an adult fare needs to be purchased for the child. Please contact us to book the flight and the service.
Infant fare checked baggage allowance
Infants travelling on an infant fare are allowed 10 kg as baggage allowance.
If you need wheelchair assistance at the airport, you must advise Air Tanzania of this at the time of booking. You can request wheelchair assistance through our Call Centre or at Air Tanzania Sales offices.
Inflight Wi-Fi
On board Wi-Fi
Enable Wi-Fi on your laptop, tablet or smartphone, and select AirTanzaniaWifi
You will need to launch your web browser, which will display the log-in web portal. From the portal, simply select your preferred price plan.
Portable electronic devices (PEDs)
You can use your e-readers, tablets and smartphones from gate to gate – including taxiing, take-off and landing – without a risk to safety.
Note that on-board Wi-Fi is only available on certain aircraft. Please follow cabin crew instructions at all times.
WHERE TO CONTACT US
CONTACT CENTRE
Location: ATC House, Ohio Street.
Email: info@airtanzania.co.tz
0800 110045 Toll Free (Tanzania only)
Tel: +255 22 2117500
International customers: +255 222 113 248
AIR TANZANIA CONTACTS
DAR ES SALAAM (HQ)
Location: ATC House, Ohio Street PO Box 543
Office (JNIA) Tel: +255 222 117 500
Email: darairport.station@airtanzania.co.tz
ARUSHA
Location: Old Moshi Road, NSSF Mafao House
Email: arusha.station@airtanzania.co.tz
Tel: + 255 272 520 177/ +255 739 787 500
MBEYA
Location: Mbeya Mjini
Email: godfrey.Samanyi@airtanzania.co.tz
Mob: 0714 800 080 / 0737 800 090
COMOROS
Location: Immeuble MATELEC Moroni, Grande Comores
Email: com’airgsaatc@gmail.com
Tel: +269 3312570 / +269 3322058
BUKOBA
Location: Jamhuri Road, NSSF Building
Email: airtanzaniasalesbukoba@gmail.com
Tel: 0767351336 /0735351336
KILIMANJARO
Location: KIA
Email: arusha.station@airtanzania.co.tz
Mob: +255 735 787 249
DODOMA
Location: Hatibu Road, Tofiki Street, CDTF Building
Tel: + 255 262 322 272/ 0735 787 241 (mobile)/
0683 776 744 (mobile)
Email: dodoma.station@airtanzania.co.tz
MWANZA
Tel: +255 735 787 239/ +255 28 2501059
Email: mwanza.station@airtanzania.co.tz
E-COMMERCE
Location: ATC House, Ohio Street. Email: tce-commerce@airtanzania.co.tz
For the latest flights, information and to book online, visit: www.airtanzania.co.tz
Follow us on: @AirTanzania @airtanzania airtanzania_atcl Air Tanzania ATCL
TABORA
Email: tabora.station@airtanzania.co.tz
SONGEA
Location: African Benedict Office
Hanga- opposite TRA Songea
Email: songea.station@airtanzania.co.tz
Mob: +255 712 796 421
KIGOMA
Location: Lumumba Road, opp. Mambo Leo Pharmacy
Email: kigoma.station@airtanzania.co.tz
Mob: +255 742 580 580
IRINGA
Location: Asas House, Dodoma Road, opp. TCC.
Email: Iringa.station@airtanzania.co.tz
Mob: +255 753 574 986
ZANZIBAR
Location: Postal Building, Kijangwani
Email: zanzibar.station@airtanzania.co.tz
Mob: +255 785 452 585
ZIMBABWE
Location: 24 Shamwari Complex, 157 Sam Nujoma Street, Ext Belgravia, Harare
Email: hresalestc@airtanzania.co.tz
Tel: +263 424 796 286/7
Mob: +263 773 119 462
ZAMBIA
Barnetts Building, Shop 3, Hailie Selasie Avenue, Longacres, Lusaka.
Mob: +260 956 610 250
Email: support.lusaka@airtanzania.co.tz
KAMPALA
Location: Park Royal Mall, Room 208, Buganda Road.
Email: uganda.station@airtanzania.co.tz
Email: bbesalestc@airtanzania.co.tz
Tel: +256 414 289 474 / +256 393 517 145
ENTEBBE
Location: Entebbe International Airport, Room no 095.
Email: uganda.station@airtanzania.co.tz
Email: bbesalestc@airtanzania.co.tz
Tel: +256 716 680 250
BURUNDI
Location: Bujumbura-Mairie, Boulevard de la Liberté, Galerie Alexander, No 10
Email: fantasticvoyage1@gmail.com
Tel: +257 610 139 48.
INDIA
Location: Ajanta Travels PVT Ltd, VN Road, Mumbai.
Email: Res.bom@airtanzania.co.in
Tel: +91 224 979 0108/09/ +91 98200 61232 (cargo)/ +91 98193 65286 (reservations)/ +91 740 0084680 (staff airport supervisors)
JOHANNESBURG
Location: West Tower, 2nd Floor, Nelson Mandela Square, Maude Street, Sandown, Gauteng, South Africa 2146
Email: southernafrica@airlinepros.com
Tel: +27 11 881 5945
Tel: +27 11 881 5945
NAIROBI
Location: 35 Muthithi Road, Stellato Building, Westlands, Nairobi, Kenya
Mob: +254 736 197 197 / +254 732 247 000.