Destination Uganda 2017 by Land & Marine Publications Ltd.

www.visituganda.com

Destination Uganda is published by:

The official publication of: THE UGANDA TOURISM BOARD 42 Windsor Crescent, Kololo PO Box 7211, Kampala, Uganda Tel: +256 (414) 342 196/7 Fax: +256 (414) 342 188

Land & Marine Publications Ltd 1 Kings Court, Newcomen Way Severalls Business Park Colchester, Essex, CO4 9RA United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1206 752 902 E-mail: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor nor of any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions. ISSN 1754-4793 ©2017 Land & Marine Publications Ltd Destination Uganda is available online:

www.visituganda.com

Contents 3 FOREWORD

Diverse and unique attractions await

4 INTRODUCTION

‘Pearl of Africa’ is waiting to welcome you

8 RWENZORI

Mountains of mystery still cast a spell

12 LOCAL FOOD

27 LOCATION UGANDA 29 CENTRAL UGANDA

32 BWINDI AND SOUTH-WEST UGANDA

Close encounters of the thrilling kind

36 QUEEN ELIZABETH NATIONAL PARK

Glorious food with a taste for every palate

14 FAITH-BASED TOURISM

Tourist-friendly capitals, old and new

A scenic destination rich in wildlife

38 WESTERN UGANDA

A VIP welcome for pilgrims of all faiths

Natural wonders are a magnet for visitors

17 CULTURAL PERFORMANCES

40 MURCHISON FALLS

18 PARKS AND GAME VIEWING

42 EASTERN & NORTHERN UGANDA

A fascinating range of cultural diversity

Astounding variety of safari opportunities

21 GETTING AROUND

Lovely by land – awesome by air

24 FACT FILE

Nile adds magic to favourite game park Road less travelled is full of wonder

46 JINJA AND THE NILE

A spectacular source of high adventure

48 USEFUL CONTACTS

Uganda facts

Diverse and unique attractions await WELCOME to the latest edition of Destination Uganda – a publication commissioned exclusively by the Uganda Tourism Board (UTB).

Uganda. This visa allows visitors to travel through-

As visitors for more than a century have quickly

So, whether you plan to visit Uganda to see

discovered, Uganda really is the Pearl of Africa – a

our wildlife and avifauna and our snow-peaked

land truly blessed with a diverse and sometimes

mountains, to look for exhilarating thrills and

unique list of attractions.

adventure, to make a pilgrimage, to attend a business

out Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda on the basis of a single payment of US$ 100.

meeting or international conference or similar Ours is a land of mountain gorillas and a range of

gathering, you can be sure that a warm welcome

other primates; of over 1,000 recorded and occasion-

awaits in our ever-glistening Pearl of Africa.

ally endemic species of birds; of sparkling freshwater lakes, spectacular waterfalls and vast and uncrowded

As we say in Luganda – Tukusanyukidde!

national parks; of colourful cultures and ancient kingdoms. Moreover, it’s a land that can lay undis-

STEPHEN ASIIMWE

puted claim to Africa’s highest mountain range.

Chief Executive Officer Uganda Tourism Board

MOVING AHEAD Today it is becoming easier to visit Uganda and it will soon be easier to get around once here. A new passenger terminal is under construction at Entebbe International Airport; we are moving ahead with a new standard-gauge railway that will link Kampala with Nairobi and Mombasa; new domestic railways are on the way, too, that will link most or our major towns and cities; and Kampala’s new and much-needed northern and southern bypasses are on their way. That’s the hardware and now for the software. I am delighted to report that the multi-entry East African tourist visa has been an unqualified success, helping to encourage more visitors to

‘Pearl of Africa’ is waiting to welcome you ISOLATED for millennia by the forests of the Congo, the swamps of Sudan and the East African steppes, Uganda was unknown to the world beyond its boundaries until Europeans arrived in the second half of the 19th century. What they found to fill the gap on their maps was a verdant land of great beauty, endless variety and dramatic contrasts – and they loved it. Here’s what Winston Churchill had to say in 1907 (we still quote him for the simple reason that nobody has put it better):

Biologically, east Africa meets west in Uganda as savannas roamed by big game merge with primaterich jungles. The people are still different, too. Though we comprise the world’s most ethnically diverse population, with 56 tribes, we are collectively linked by a reputation as Africa’s friendliest and most hospitable hosts.

APPEALING What has changed, and which makes a visit to Uganda more appealing than ever before, is ease

‘The kingdom of Uganda is a fairy tale. You climb up a railway instead of a beanstalk and at the end there is a wonderful new world. The scenery is different, the vegetation is different, the climate is different and, most of all, the people are different from anything elsewhere to be seen in the whole range of Africa. For magnificence, for variety of form and colour, for profusion of brilliant life – bird, insect, reptile, beast – Uganda is truly the pearl of Africa.’ A century later, Uganda is still different. Our unexpectedly green landscapes are punctuated by A-list geographical features. The Rwenzori, the continent’s highest mountain range, towers above the tectonic trench of Africa’s Western Rift Valley, while the Nile, the world’s longest river, tumbles out of Lake Victoria, Africa’s largest lake. Although Uganda stands directly on the equator, the altitude moderates the temperatures to create a pleasantly moderate climate and we still boast an unrivalled profusion of life.

of access. In 1862 the explorer John Speke took three months to hike inland from the Kenyan coast. Churchill was more fortunate: the newly constructed Uganda Railway had compressed the trip to three days. You are luckier still: a direct flight from Europe to Entebbe takes just eight hours. We look forward to welcoming you to Uganda!

Mountains of mystery still cast a spell ONE of the loveliest parts of Uganda’s western tourism circuit is the 80 km descent from Fort Portal town to Queen Elizabeth National Park on the rift valley floor.

emerged from the Congo forests to see a snowcapped mountain known locally as Rwenzori. Since this drains into three lakes – George, Edward and Albert – that empty into the Nile, Stanley equated it emphatically with Ptolemy’s Mountains of the Moon.

Throughout the drive, a dramatic backdrop is provided by the 5,100 metre Rwenzori massif, the

From the above tale – hugely condensed – one can

highest mountain range in Africa. The higher slopes

appreciate that it is perfectly possible to enjoy the

are usually enveloped by cloud – unfortunately so,

Rwenzori armed only with a history book, ideally

for this conceals the drama between foothills, which

while staying at a lodge near Queen Elizabeth

nudge the equator as they merge into the rift valley

National Park or Kibale Forest with a waragi and

plains, and mountain peaks so high and cold that

tonic at sundowner time, when the reluctant snows

they support permanent snow and ice.

are most likely to appear. For most visitors, this is enough. But to fully appreciate the mysteries of the

But the story of the Rwenzori is all about paradox

Rwenzori, you need to climb the mountain.

and hidden significance. Shrouded by cloud and guarded by an outer cordon of swamp and jungle, it was the last major mountain range in Africa to

ROCKY

be described by European explorers. Therein lies

It has to be stated from the outset that this is

a further inconsistency, because for 17 centuries

no easy task, though. The paths are rough and

prior to its ‘discovery’ the Rwenzori was linked to a

rocky and conditions are steep, cold, usually wet,

mystery that baffled the pharaohs of Ancient Egypt

frequently misty and extremely muddy. Following

as well as Julius Caesar and Alexander the Great:

Stanley’s 1888 sighting, the mountain repelled

the nature and location of the source of the Nile.

numerous expeditions before the Italian Duke of

With the journey upstream to the source blocked by

Abruzzi finally reached the summit in 1906.

swamps, geographers resorted to speculation – as

in 150 AD when Ptolemy produced a map suggest-

Forget Gortex hiking boots; your best friend will

ing that the lakes of the Nile were fed by waters

be a pair of gumboots costing five dollars from

from the Mountains of the Moon, a snow-capped

a local market. Accommodation, in a series of

mountain near the equator. Ptolemy’s unsubstanti-

spartan mountain huts, will be basic and so will the

ated claim retreated into the realm of legend and

food, since all supplies, and one’s own luggage,

when John Hanning Speke found the Nile exiting

are carried by porters – stocky mountain men

Lake Victoria in 1862 the claim seemed likely to

of remarkable strength and endurance recruited

remain there. But in 1888 Henry Morton Stanley

from the local Konzo tribe. Depending on the

route, climbers will spend at least six nights on the mountain if they intend to reach the 5,109 metre Margherita peak. Reaching the top is not essential, however; the real reward is the journey through the bizarre vegetation zones unique to East Africa’s highest mountains. The ascent begins conventionally enough through montane forest and grey-green groves of bamboo, but these are merely the lull before a storm of colour in the heather forest beyond. Here, red and gold mosses carpet rock faces and bandage the limbs of freakish heather trees, some 15 metres in height, with bulbous, dripping tumours. More monstrously oversized plants await in the glacier-carved valleys below the peaks. Lobelias form geometrically perfect rosettes a metre wide and groundsel stems, five metres in height, bear monstrously enlarged heads of spinach. Ptolemy’s Mountains of the Moon are indeed other-worldly; so much so that visitors invariably resort to comparison with contemporary fantasies; the forests of Disney’s Seven Dwarves and Alice’s Wonderland and, inevitably, Tolkien’s Middle Earth.

FUTURE Protected within the boundaries of the Rwenzori Mountain National Park, the future of the mountains’ botanical ‘big game’ seems assured. But since the Duke of Abruzzi’s historic ascent in 1906, permanent snow cover has reduced by over 70 per cent. If you dream of walking on Ptolemy’s equatorial snows or simply hope for a crepuscular glimpse from a lodge, don’t leave it too long.

Glorious food with a taste for every palate WE don’t always associate Africa with an abundance and diversity of foods, so visitors are likely to be impressed with what Uganda has to offer.

tracking gorillas or following chimpanzees through the tropical jungle. But guests should also make a point of sampling the produce from a fruit table groaning with local papayas, water melons, passion fruit, oranges, pineapples, apples, mangoes and

Back in the days when the route to Uganda crossed

bananas.

the arid plains of Kenya and Tanzania, new arrivals were captivated by the country’s lush, green landscapes and fertile soils. Winston Churchill wrote

BANANAS

of ‘a beautiful garden where the staple food of the

In fact, bananas will keep you going all day long

people grows almost without labour’.

in Uganda. The local staple is matoke, a greenskinned plantain that is mashed and steamed

Today, indigenous foods have been supplemented

and wrapped in a parcel made from the huge,

by introductions from Europe and Asia, leading to

canoe-shaped leaves of the banana tree. This is

a kaleidoscopic variety of fruit and vegetables and

best eaten with meat served in a spicy gravy or a

a cornucopia of delicious menus in restaurants and

distinctive pink groundnut (peanut) sauce. Another

tourist hotels across the country.

savoury favourite is the gonja banana; fried or roasted at roadside grills, it provides travellers with

With Continental, Indian, Italian, Chinese, Greek,

a tasty filler. Bogoya approximates to the dessert

Lebanese, Vietnamese, Thai, Tex-Mex and even

banana that many visitors will know from home;

Kentucky Fried Chicken on offer, there is something

familiar and filling. But many will prefer the short,

to please everyone. But visitors are also encouraged

stubby fingers of ndizi, the apple banana; delight-

to try the local specialities. Indeed, an apprecia-

fully sweet, it is too delicate for export, so enjoy it

tion of Ugandan produce begins with your morning

while you can.

cup of tea – invariably an infusion of leaves plucked from the plantations of Toro on the edge of Kibale

There is more to bananas than snacks and staples,

Forest. Those who prefer coffee should insist that

though. The kayinja banana is fermented and

it’s ground from Arabica beans harvested on the

distilled to produce waragi, the national spirit.

waterfall-streaked slopes of Mount Elgon on the

A corruption of ‘war gin’, Uganda waragi was

Uganda-Kenya border.

originally a potent firewater served in immoderate quantities to soldiers psyching up for the fray. Now

At breakfast, it’s absolutely fine to call for the full

triple distilled by Uganda Breweries, waragi is mixed

English or a pancake drizzled with local acacia

with a long tonic or bitter lemon to create a refresh-

honey – no bad idea if you plan to spend the day

ing sundowner.

It’s strictly dining with fingers; when the first side has been picked clean, flip it over like an old-style LP record and enjoy Side 2.

ROLEX Above all, don’t miss Uganda’s main contribution to international cuisine: an egg, onion and cabbage omelette rolled up in a chapati. Don’t ask for a plate of ‘rolled eggs’, though, or you’ll be met with a blank look. The term that has taken Uganda, East Africa and the world by storm is ‘rolex’. A filling snack at any time of day, the rolex originated in street barbecues but has since been admitted to the menus of upmarket hotels and lodges – usually But if terrestrial Uganda is a banana republic, a

with a few special variations on the standard recipe.

further fifth of the country is covered by water,

Ugandans celebrated their invention by holding the

making tilapia and Nile perch an important food

world’s first Rolex Festival in 2016, with Kampala’s

for people living along the river and beside the

top chefs competing for the title of Rolex King.

country’s many lakes. Tilapia has a particularly

Further afield, Sylvester Bbale, a Ugandan living in

sweet and delicate flavour and a whole fish, up to

Denmark, owes his victory in Copenhagen’s 2016

50 cm long, fried and served on a giant platter with

‘food truck’ competition to his own, hugely popular

a mountain of chips makes a fun communal feast.

rolex recipe.

A VIP welcome for pilgrims of all faiths THOUGH primarily known for its mountain gorillas and game parks, Uganda is fast establishing itself as a major destination for faith-based tourism (FBT). This involves the provision of transport, lodging, food and beverages and other related travel and hospitality services for people of faith or those travelling to places of faith.

died in Uganda for their religious beliefs, the day’s events focus on the Kampala suburb of Namugongo, where 25 of Mwanga’s victims were burned alive. The site of the executions is now occupied by a Protestant shrine and museum. Recently expanded for a visit by Pope Francis in November 2015, the centrepiece is a graphic array of bronze statuary that depicts the diverse methods of torture and execution suffered by the

As a leading safari destination, Uganda has plenty

45 victims. However, the main event of Martyrs’

of experience in providing transport and provi-

Day takes place nearby at the Catholic Basilica of

sions – and it also has an abundance of faith-based

the Uganda Martyrs, an imposing metal structure

destinations. In fact, FBT is simply a rebranding

built in 1964 to mark the visit of Pope Paul VI and

of something the country’s tourism sector has

the canonisation of the Catholic martyrs. The anni-

been doing for decades. Each year on Martyrs’

versary is a huge occasion as the many pilgrims

Day (3 June) more than a million Catholic pilgrims

– traditionally from East Africa but increas-

converge on Kampala to affirm their faith and

ingly from all over the world – converge on the

celebrate the survival of Christianity during its

25-hectare site to celebrate High Mass.

darkest hour in Uganda. Martyrs’ Day is the highlight of the FBT calendar

MARTYRS’ DAY

in Uganda, but tourists can visit Namugongo and

Martyrs’ Day is a public holiday in Uganda as people

the recently opened Martyrs’ Trail. Starting at

mark the occasion in 1886 when 45 young Chris-

Munyonyo, the site of Mwanga’s palace beside Lake

tians died rather than renounce their faith. With

Victoria, where the converts were arrested, the trail

his court polarised between religious factions –

follows the route of their march to Namugongo. An

Muslims, Protestants, Catholics and adherents of

imposing church, built to mark the recent visit of

traditional religions – Mwanga II, king of Buganda,

Pope Francis, remembers St Andrew Kaggwa, who

tried to extinguish the flame of Christianity. His plan

was killed at Munyonyo before the march began.

backfired when the martyrs’ deaths caused the

Another memorial, in Busega in western Kampala,

flame to burn brighter than before, and more widely.

reminds us that, despite their extraordinary convic-

other sites of martyrdom at any time by following

tion and courage, the martyrs were often teenagers

Although Martyrs’ Day remembers everyone –

or even children. Joseph Lugalama, for example,

Christians, Jews and Muslims alike – who have

was just 12 years old when he was speared and

©Doxomimesis / Shutterstock, Inc

©Vlad Karavaev / Shutterstock, Inc.

©Doxomimesis / Shutterstock, Inc

thrown into the swamp, while his companions were 16 and 17. Further afield, beyond the source of the Nile at Jinja, a covered shrine shelters the rock on which James Hannington, the first Anglican Bishop of East Africa, was murdered in 1885, again on Mwanga’s orders, as he journeyed inland to visit his Bugandan parish.

PIVOTAL FIGURES Not all FBT sites in Uganda involve martyrdom. In the graveyard outside Kampala’s Namirembe Cathedral, tourists can pay their respects to a number of pivotal figures including George Pilkington, who translated the Bible into the local language; Alexander Mackay, who built the first church; Sir Albert Ruskin Cook, the missionary doctor who built the country’s first hospital; and Ham Mukasa, who narrowly escaped martyrdom in 1886 and lived to serve the government of Buganda for many years. Visitors of all faiths are welcome to visit the imposing Old Kampala Mosque, at the foot of Namirembe Hill, said to be the largest in sub-Saharan Africa. It was initiated by Idi Amin in the 1970s and finally completed with funding from Muammar Gaddafi in 2006. A focus for Jewish visitors is Nabugoye Hill, near Mbale, in eastern Uganda, home of the Abaduyaya community, which has been observing Jewish customs and rituals since the 1920s.

WITH over 40 distinct tribal groups, Uganda has a rich culture that is varied and full of contrast.

able variety; and it would be a long one, indeed, if

On the expansive plains of eastern Uganda, lanky

If time is short, however, you could experience a

Karamojong pastoralists live in manyattas – cell-like

splendid cultural cross-section simply by heading to

clusters of defensive thorn-fenced enclosures.

Kampala’s Ndere Centre, home of the famous Ndere

At the other extreme, both geographically and in

Troupe, where a purpose-built auditorium and outdoor

stature, communities of Batwa pygmies, Uganda’s

arena provide the setting for thrilling performances

oldest extant group, bivouac on the forest margins

of traditional dance and music from all over Uganda.

of the mountainous south-west.

Visitors are invited to join in if they wish; Uganda would

A fascinating range of cultural diversity embark on a nationwide tour to explore this remarkyou intended to do the subject justice.

not be Africa’s most hospitable country otherwise. Girls

TRIBES

can try the suggestive shimmer of the Bagisu kadodi

Mountain people face each other across the 500

competitive pogo dance of Karamoja. An Ndere event

km wide plateau of Central Uganda. On the western

is not to be missed – a frenetic experience that leaves

border with Congo, the 5,109 metre high Mount

the performers exhausted, the audience drained and

Rwenzori is home to the Bakonzo people, while on

everybody extremely happy.

dance while their men jump with fellow warriors in the

the volcanic slopes of the 4,321 metre Mount Elgon.

The Ndere Centre is located in Ntinda in north-east

In between live the Basoga and Langi, two tribes

Kampala, just off the Ntinda-Kisaasi roundabout on

who, though divided by a few kilometres of shallow,

the Northern Bypass.

the eastern border with Kenya the Bagisu inhabit

swampy Lake Kyoga, speak languages as mutually incomprehensible as English and Chinese. Central Uganda, on the shore of Lake Victoria, is dominated by Buganda, a kingdom dating back to the 14th century, whose subjects are divided among

These groups, and many more, all have distinct cultures and traditions, most of which have associated dances accompanied by compositions played on regionally distinctive instruments. One might

©Travel Stock / Shutterstock Inc.

51 clans, each with its own animal or plant totem.

Astounding variety of safari opportunities A GLANCE at the map of East Africa gives three important clues about why a tour of Uganda’s national parks is such a memorable experience.

The relatively compact nature of Uganda – it is half the size of Kenya and a quarter that of Tanzania – and the proximity of contrasting savanna and forest habitats help to concentrate the excitement of a western tour. Imagine, for example, tracking

For a start, eight of its 10 parks are in the west of

mountain gorillas through Bwindi’s montane forest

the country, close to or bordering the Democratic

in the morning and then, after a drive of just 60

Republic of Congo. Secondly, Uganda, although

km, emerging into open grasslands to find lions

roughly the same size as the UK, is only a fraction

lounging in the boughs of fig trees. Or following

of the size of its neighbouring safari destinations.

chimpanzees through the forests of Kibale before

And, finally, it’s clear that fresh water is abundant in

descending to the hot rift valley floor – passing

Uganda, where a fifth of the country is open water

the snow-capped Rwenzori on the way – for an

and wetland.

afternoon boat cruise on the Kazinga Channel with great views of hippos and watering elephants as

WILDLIFE

well as waterbirds.

The geographical skew of its national parks reflects

Water, in its various forms, is central to the tourism

the fact that two of Africa’s primary habitats –

experience in Uganda’s parks. Visitors can expect

savanna and tropical forest – meet in western

to crunch across snow and glacial ice to reach the

Uganda. Here, bird and primate species from the

peaks in Rwenzori Mountains National Park, or push

Congo forests mix with the big game of the East

through curtains of mist to find chimps and gorillas

African savanna to create an exceptional variety

in the forest. Water is surprisingly abundant, too,

of wildlife. During game drives through western

in the seasonally arid setting of western Uganda’s

Uganda’s three grassland parks – Murchison

grassland parks. Meltwater streams draining from

Falls, Queen Elizabeth and Lake Mburo – visitors

the Rwenzori massif onto the hot rift valley floor

can expect to see elephant, lion, giraffe, zebra,

provide year-round water for wildlife living beside

buffalo, hippo, crocodile and numerous species of

the 40 km Kazinga Channel in Queen Elizabeth

antelope. In the forested parks, there is a check list

National Park. At the northern end of the rift valley,

of 18 primate species, most notably chimpanzees

Murchison Falls National Park – 300 metres lower

in Kibale, Kaniyo Pabidi (part of Murchison Falls

and even hotter – is bisected by the life-giving River

National Park) and Kyambura Gorge (in Queen

Nile. And Lake Mburo National Park is sustained

Elizabeth National Park) and, of course, mountain

by a string of lakes and connecting wetlands. In

gorillas in the Bwindi Impenetrable and Mgahinga

all these parks there are opportunities to view the

Gorilla national parks.

waterside wildlife by boat, the best known being the

launch trip in Murchison Falls National Park which cruises up the Nile, past wallowing hippos and basking crocodiles, to the bottom of the thunderous waterfall.

WATERBIRDS Water does much to extend Uganda’s already exciting birdlife, too. Waterbirds of all shapes and sizes crowd the banks of the Kazinga Channel, while below Murchison Falls a broad papyrus delta at the Nile’s entrance into Lake Albert is home to the curious shoebill and other wetland rarities. A tour of western Uganda is a diverse and stimulating experience, as the visitor alternates between forest, mountain and savanna parks, each with its own distinctive activities. In the grasslands, visitors can locate their big game favourites using vehicles, boats, horses or even hot air balloons. To find our forest-dwelling ape cousins, on the other hand, the only option is to park up, don sensible footwear and start walking. Throw in the dramatic rift valley setting and the fabulous montane backdrops of the Rwenzori massif and the Virunga volcanoes and the result is an itinerary that travel writer Philip Briggs describes, in the latest Bradt Guide to Uganda, as ‘the most varied safari circuit anywhere in Africa’. Don’t just take Briggs’s word for it, though. Come to Uganda and see for yourself.

Lovely by land – awesome by air MOST visitors like to tour Uganda by road – quite feasible in this relatively small country, no larger than the United Kingdom. From Kampala there are good sealed highways radiating out to regional towns, although the onward journey to the national parks is typically along dirt roads. The national road system is being continuously

A new expressway is due to open between Entebbe and Kampala in 2018 and this will allow safari-goers to bypass the congested capital and travel directly between the airport and national parks in western Uganda.

DIVERSE

improved. There are tarmacked cross-country

Travelling by road across Uganda is always a

roads, especially in the north and east, so that

lively experience owing to its diverse landscape.

access to the isolated Kidepo Valley National Park is

The scenery is undoubtedly impressive at ground

much easier than before.

level – but it’s even more spectacular when you

take to the air. Today, aerial views of Uganda are

you can choose to fly to Kigali with Air Rwanda

more accessible and affordable than ever thanks

or its partner, Brussels Airlines, thus reducing the

to regular scheduled flights by Fly Uganda and

overland journey to trailheads in Mgahinga and

Aerolink Uganda between Entebbe and a range of

southern Bwindi to just 160 km.

tourist destinations including airstrips located in or near all the national parks. Especially popular is the two-hour direct flight to Kidepo Valley National

MARVEL

Park, avoiding a circuitous drive of at least 10 hours

An overflight of Uganda is a safari in itself,

around Lake Kyoga to this remote park.

whether you opt for a scheduled flight or a private charter. There are opportunities to fly over the

Aerolink now also flies to Pakuba airstrip in

lakes, cliffs and waterfalls of the Western Rift

Murchison Falls National Park and to Kasese

Valley; catch the spray of Murchison Falls; gaze

Airport, close to Queen Elizabeth and Kibale

down on territorial pods of hippo along the

national parks. Following the line of the Western

Kazinga Channel; marvel at the glacial valleys of

Rift Valley, this 60-minute flight provides

the Rwenzori (without a seven-day trek); view the

wonderful views of Lake Albert, the Semliki rift

primeval plains and mountain ranges of Karamoja;

valley plains and the Rwenzori mountains. It also

and cross the vast wetlands of emerald-green

avoids a bumpy road journey of nine to 10 hours

papyrus.

between these places. Not only do these flights offer spectacular views,

CONVENIENT

but they carry the reassurance of international

Going by air is, of course, the easiest and most

of a 90-minute air journey to destinations such as

convenient way of travelling to Uganda and

Bwindi and Kidepo Valley compared with a road

various global carriers fly into Entebbe Inter-

journey of some 500 km – and you’ll arrive fresher,

national Airport. The most direct routes from

too, and ready to enjoy your safari.

safety standards. It’s hard to resist the attraction

Europe are operated by Brussels Airlines and KLM. Other services are provided by Emirates, Ethiopian Airlines, Etihad Airways, Kenya Airways

CARBON-NEUTRAL

and Turkish Airlines, but these involve easterly

Interestingly enough, your environmental footprint

detours via their home-country airports. It’s worth

may be lighter in the air than on the ground, as

bearing in mind that Entebbe is 450 km from the

Fly Uganda is a wholly carbon-neutral aviation

nearest gorilla tracking sites in Bwindi. Instead,

company – the first and only one in Africa.

Uganda facts ADMINISTRATIVE DIVISIONS: 111 districts across four

CAPITAL: Kampala.

administrative regions. CLIMATE: Tropical. Rainy seasons, March to May, and AREA: 93,065 sq km (land: 76,101 sq km, water

September to November; dry seasons, December

16,965 sq km).

to February and mid June to mid August. Mean annual temperatures range from about 16°C (61°F)

BORDERS: 2,698 km (Democratic Republic of

in the south-western highlands to 25°C (77°F) in

Congo 765 km, Kenya 933 km, Rwanda 169 km,

the north-west; but in the north-east, temperatures

South Sudan 435 km, Tanzania 396 km).

exceed 30°C (86°F) about 254 days per year.

BANKING HOURS: Mon to Fri 8.30 am to 6.00 pm;

CURRENCY: The Uganda shilling (UGX).

Sat 9.00 am to 4.00 pm. ELEVATIONS: Highest point: Margherita Peak on BUSINESS HOURS: Mon to Fri 8.30 am to 5.30 pm.

Mount Stanley at 5,110 metres.

Pecold / Shutterstock, Inc.

Pichugin Dmitry / Shutterstock, Inc.

ETHNIC GROUPS: Buganda, Iteso, Basoga,

Feast of the Sacrifice) 25 December (Christmas

Banyankore, Banyarwanda, Bakiga, Lango, Acholi,

Day), 26 December (Boxing Day).

Lugbara, Banyoro, Batoro, Karamojong, Teso, Bagisu, Madi, Japadhola, Samia, Kakwa, Nubian,

POPULATION: 40.9 million (2017 estimate).

Bagwere, Banyole, Bakonzo, Alur, Kumam and European among others.

INTERNATIONAL DIALLING CODE: +256.

ELECTRICITY: 240 volts AC 50 Hz. Square-pin plugs

TIME: GMT +3.

mostly used. RELIGIONS: Christian 84 per cent, Muslim 12 per EXCHANGE RATE: US$ 1 = UGX 3,600 (Jan 2017).

cent, other 1 per cent, none 0.7 per cent (2002 census).

HISTORY: Uganda gained independence from Britain in 1962, maintaining its Commonwealth

TOPOGRAPHY: The greater part of Uganda

membership.

consists of a plateau. Along the western border are the Rwenzori Mountains. The eastern frontier is

INDUSTRIES: Cotton, coffee, tea, sugar, tobacco and

dominated by Mount Elgon, while the Western Rift

textiles.

Valley runs from north to south through the western half of the country.

GEOGRAPHY: Uganda is landlocked. The south of the country includes a substantial portion of Lake Victoria. The centre is dominated by Lake Kyoga. LANGUAGES: The official language is English, although many other languages are spoken in Uganda. PUBLIC HOLIDAYS: 1 January, 26 January (Liberation Day), 8 March (International Women’s Day), Good Friday, Easter Monday, 1 May (Labour Day), 3 June (Martyrs’ Day), 9 June (National Heroes’ Day), 30 August (Eid al-Fitr/End of Ramadan), 9 October (Independence Day), 6 November (Eid al-Adha/

SOUTH SUDAN Rivers

Kidepo Valley National Park

Roads International Border

Moyo

National Parks and Wildlife Reserves

Kitgum

Gorillas

G l Gulu

O ra

Chimpanzees

Asw

Kotido Matheniko Wildlife Reserve

Moroto

Nebbi

Monkeys

Pakwach N i l e ia Vi c

50 Kilometers 25

KENYA

Nil

Butterflies

Alb

Ajai Wildlife Reserve

Trekking

Kaabong

NORTHERN

er t

Arua

Game

ger

Birdwatching

Atiak

tor

Lira

O ke

Murchison Falls National Park

50 Miles

Bokora Wildlife Reserve

Apac Lake Albert

DRC

Kabwoya Wildlife Reserve

Butiaba

Budongo Forest

Lake Kwania

Masindi

Hoima

Soroti

Pallisa

Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve

Kiboga

Bundibugyo

Fort Portal Kyenjojo

Katonga Wildlife Reserve

Kasese Lake George

WESTERN

Queen Elizabeth National Park

Kigezi Wildlife Reserve

Lyantonde

Mbarara Ntungamo

Lake Mburo National Park

Masaka

Mabamba Swamp

J Jinja

KAMPALA

Tororo

Iganga

Mabira Forest BUVMA ISLAND

ENTEBBE

SSESE ISLANDS Kalangala

Bushenyi

Rukungiri

Mukono

EASTERN B b ti Busembatia

CENTRAL Mpigi

ton

Kamulii

Bombo

Mityana

Kibale National Park

Rwenzori National Park

Lake Edward

Mubende

Mt Elgon National Park

Mbale

Luwero

Semliki National Park

Kapchorwa

Nk us i

Kagadi

Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve

Kumi

Lake Kyoga Ka fu

Lake Bisina

Rakai

Lake Victoria

AFRICA

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

Kabale

Uganda

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park

RWANDA 27

Tourist-friendly capitals, old and new FOR tourists with fixed itineraries, Entebbe and Kampala are first and foremost staging points on the way to and from a safari holiday in western Uganda. Yet there are plenty of exciting things to see and do in Central Uganda for visitors with time to spare.

KAMPALA: The bustling capital of Uganda is its largest urban centre by far, with a population of over 1 million. The city, which is still expanding, has a distinctive location on a series of prominent hills close to Lake Victoria. The original seven summits, topped by landmarks of cultural, religious and colonial importance, are still key focal points in the

Kampala is the busy modern capital of Uganda,

capital, although Kampala has long outgrown its

while Entebbe, the old colonial capital, lies 35 km to

historical title of City of Seven Hills.

the south. Close to Entebbe town is Entebbe International Airport, the country’s main gateway for

A key advantage of Kampala is that it’s a safe city

international tourists.

to explore. Within the city centre, on the slopes of Nakasero Hill, visitors will be struck by the contrast

MODERN

between uphill and downhill. Above the main thor-

For those who appreciate the amenities of a modern

lined by restored colonial buildings and brand-new

capital, Kampala comes well up to the mark; while

office buildings. Many of the colonial buildings are

a more relaxing ambience can be found in Entebbe

occupied by hotels and quality restaurants. Downhill

and Jinja, with their tranquil locations beside Lake

has a totally different look, with congested streets

Victoria and the Source of the Nile respectively. The

descending to colourful markets, chaotic bus parks

national parks are located several hours’ drive from

and a permanent gridlock of vehicles, boda bodas

Kampala; but visitors can nevertheless view birds

(moped taxis) and pedestrians.

shores that surround the capital. CLIMATE: Tropical, moderated by altitude (1,200 metres above sea level). Temperatures rarely go higher than 30°C (85°F) or drop below 18°C (65ºF). The hottest month is January. LANDSCAPE: The prevailing scenery of Central Uganda is one of broad wetland valleys set between low, flat-topped hills. The wetlands drain into Lake Victoria and Lake Kyoga.

and primates in the tropical forest, wetland and lake

oughfare of Kampala Road there are leafy avenues

A SMILE OF WELCOME An endearing feature of Uganda is the friendly and approachable nature of its people, most notably in Kampala. Today, Kampala is a social and cultural melting pot. But the city is still the historical capital of a regional kingdom called Buganda – home of the country’s most numerous group of people. The history and traditions of the Baganda date back to the 16th century and they are fiercely proud of their kabaka (king).

There is a wide choice of accommodation in the capital. The high-end hotel sector was considerably expanded in the run-up to the Kampala Commonwealth Summit in 2007 and now includes several five-star hotels. There is a choice of good mid-range hotels, too, as well as popular backpacker hostels. For those who enjoy eating out, Kampala offers a good choice of international cuisine. WAVIMENYA BAY: While the western side of Lake Victoria’s Murchison Bay is dominated by the sprawl of Kampala, the eastern shore is still delightfully rural, with a handful of lodges available. Visitors can begin – and perhaps also end – their Sarine Arslanian / Shutterstock Inc.

safari in a tranquil lakeside setting just a short boat ride of between 15 and 30 minutes from the marina at Speke Commonwealth Resort in Kampala.

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ENTEBBE: This small, quiet town on the shore of Lake

BOOKLIST: Charles Miller, ‘The Lunatic Express’;

Victoria offers a haven of tranquillity. It is character-

Thomas Packenham, ‘The Scramble for Africa’;

ised by a charming town centre located between

Philip Briggs and Andrew Roberts, ‘Bradt Guide to

the hilltop State House (the official residence of the

Uganda’.

President of Uganda) and the lakeside golf course. In former times, visitors crossed Lake Victoria by steamer from the railway terminus at Kisumu in Kenya, making Entebbe the country’s number one gateway. Among the VIP visitors in those days were Winston Churchill and Theodore Roosevelt. This unique status ended when the railway reached Kampala in 1931; but today Entebbe is still the main point of entry for international arrivals because of its closeness to the country’s main airport. Entebbe has a good choice of large hotels and guesthouses catering for tourists and other travellers.

THINGS TO DO ATTRACTIONS: Visitors can enjoy the variety of tropical trees, birds and monkeys offered by Entebbe’s lakeside Botanical Gardens, while nearby is the Wildlife Education Centre, a sanctuary for rescued and orphaned wildlife. It offers a popular behind-the-scenes tour that brings visitors close to the orphans and their carers. East of Entebbe, across the bay, Mabamba Swamp is the ideal place to observe the iconic shoebill. From Entebbe, visitors can embark on sunset lake cruises as well as boat trips to Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary and resorts on the Ssese archipelago. Sport fishing excursions in search of

DRAMATIC HISTORY The late 19th century saw a time of dramatic change as the Baganda encountered Islamic traders as well as British colonialists and missionaries. Today, visitors can trace this story at various historical sites in and around Kampala. There are several of these important sites on the original seven hills of the city, bearing witness to a boisterous period of Ugandan history. They include the Protestant Cathedral at Namirembe, the Catholic Cathedral at Rubaga, Fort Lugard in Old Kampala and the Kabaka’s Palace at Lubiri. Further afield are the Kasubi and Wamala Tombs, Katereke Prison Ditch, Naggalabi Coronation Site and the Namugongo Martyrs’ Shrine. For those in search of contemporary culture, the Ndere Centre in Kampala has a colourful programme of music and dance displays.

the mammoth Nile perch can also be arranged.

Close encounters of the thrilling kind UGANDA’S number one tourist destination is Mountain Gorilla Country – located on the border of Rwanda in the remote south-west.

gered primate, which lives only in the forests of the Virunga volcanoes and Bwindi. Half of them live in Mgahinga (on the Ugandan slopes of the Virunga) and Bwindi, so that the Mountain Gorilla Country of

There is a remarkable diversity of life in the national

Uganda is the destination of choice for those hoping

parks of Mgahinga and Bwindi Impenetrable

to catch a glimpse of these magnificent animals.

Forest, where the regional landscape is varied and

dramatic. Yet in spite of the long list of species here

Tracking the mountain gorilla is one of most remark-

– a source of wonder to zoologists and botanists

able – as well as exclusive – wildlife experiences

– the mountain gorilla is the star attraction. Today,

anywhere. There are strict limits on access in order

there are fewer than 800 examples of this endan-

disturb them as little as possible. Only eight people

may track each of the habituated gorilla group each

The Impenetrable Forest is aptly named and visitors

day, while viewing time is limited to one hour. Most

must be reasonably fit to take part in the adventure.

visitors agree there is a special quality about these

The habitat of the gorilla is characterised by dense,

encounters. The gorilla is one of our closest relatives

tangled vegetation in a montane landscape of

and there is often a profoundly moving sense of

deep valleys and steep ridges. A recent addition to

connection. Visually, the gorillas are spectacular

Bwindi’s list of activities – longer and less predict-

creatures – obviously intelligent and physically

able than normal gorilla tracking – is the Gorilla

impressive, with a typical silverback weighing

Habituation Experience, in which visitors can spend

more than 200 kg (450 lb). A key aspect of gorilla

the day with teams habituating new gorilla groups

tracking is that it helps to fund the continued

to the presence of humans.

survival of these rare animals in their natural habitat. CLIMATE: Generally dry in January and February

BIRDWATCHING

and from June to September; but heavy rain can fall

Bwindi is also a key destination for birdwatchers,

at any time of year. Evening temperatures are cool.

one of the best in the country, with 350 bird types including many endemic Albertine Rift species.

LANDSCAPE: Bwindi is an island of remnant forest in

Community Walks, outside the forest, give an insight

a densely cultivated region of hills and deep valleys.

into the lives of the Bakiga people; and visitors can walk through nearby Buniga Forest with a Batwa

BWINDI IMPENETRABLE FOREST: Over 25,000

pygmy guide to learn more about the hunter-

years old and with an altitudinal range of 1,400

gatherer traditions of Uganda’s oldest extant tribe.

metres, this is one of Africa’s richest forests in biological terms. The national park is home to an

MGAHINGA GORILLA NATIONAL PARK: The northern

impressive list of species with 200 different trees,

slopes of the Virunga volcanoes provide a spectacu-

350 birds, 310 butterflies, 88 moths, 51 reptiles and

lar setting for this tiny park, covering just 38 sq km.

120 mammals including primates such as chim-

Both mountain gorillas and golden monkeys can be

panzee, black-and-white colobus, blue monkey,

viewed here, although the gorillas sometimes roam

grey-cheeked mangabey, L’Hoest’s monkey and,

into neighbouring Rwanda and Congo. Visitors

of course, the mountain gorilla. The 10 habituated

can climb the park’s three dormant volcanoes; and

gorilla groups of Bwindi can be tracked from four

at the summit of Mount Sabinyo you can stand in

trailheads. There are eight permits for each group –

Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of

a daily maximum of 80 permits. It takes two to eight

Congo all at the same time. The guided Batwa Trail

hours to track the mountain gorillas depending on

reveals aspects of forest life before descending into

where the group is located.

Garama Cave, once home to the Batwa king.

LAKE MBURO NATIONAL PARK: Offering a welcome

The Bwindi trailheads are eight to 10 hours’ drive

break on the long drive between Kampala and the

from Kampala. The roads are tarmacked as far

gorilla parks of the south-west is Uganda’s smallest

as Kabale, Kisoro and Rukungiri, with dirt roads

savanna park, covering just 370 sq km. It features a

beyond those towns, winding into the hills. It’s best

mosaic of habitats including open water, wetland,

to take two days for the journey, stopping overnight

grassland, woodland and forest patches. A perfect

in Lake Mburo. There are daily flights from Kampala

base for exploring the park is Mihingo Lodge, located

to Kihihi, 40 km from Buhoma, with a journey time

on a kopje of ancient granite. On game drives, a

of just 90 minutes.

boat cruise and even on horseback, visitors can view wildlife species not often seen in other Ugandan

The Bwindi hills are inhabited by farming people,

parks, including eland, impala, topi and zebra.

the Bakiga, who have shaped the steep, terraced hills characteristic of the region. The margins of

PANORAMA

Bwindi and Mgahinga forests are inhabited by

LAKE BUNYONYI: The second-deepest lake in Africa

traditional lifestyle by going on a forest walk.

Batwa pygmies. Visitors can learn more about their

offers a splendid panorama, dotted with islands and enclosed by steep, terraced hills. Its island lodges and camps are the perfect place for visitors to recuperate after their gorilla-tracking expeditions. LAKE MUTANDA: The view across this little-known lake near Kisoro is truly stunning, even in a region known for its scenic highlights, as you gaze across the lake, dotted with islands, towards the six Virunga volcanoes on the horizon. Local accommodation is ideally situated both for the views and for access to new gorilla tracking trailheads in southern Bwindi. ACCOMMODATION: Upmarket and mid-range option lodges are available at Lake Mburo and the Bwindi and Mgahinga trailheads. There is comfortable mid-range accommodation, too, at Lake Bunyonyi and Lake Mutanda and in the regional towns of Kabale and Kisoro.

A scenic destination rich in wildlife QUEEN ELIZABETH is probably the country’s most scenic and diverse park, with a splendid location on the floor of the Albertine Rift Valley, 914 metres above sea level, at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains.

CLIMATE: The park has two rainy seasons: March

The national park is home to some 95 mammal species

PEOPLE: Basongora farming people inhabit the

and over 600 bird species supported by a variety of

plains beneath the Rwenzori Mountains, while

habitats that include lakes, rivers, open savanna, acacia

Bakiga, Banyaraguru and Ankole people live south

woodland, tropical forest and vast wetlands. It’s an

of the Kazinga Channel.

to May and August to November. Owing to its low-lying location on the rift valley floor, it is hotter and drier than most parts of Uganda with a mean maximum temperature of 28°C (80°F).

impressive range of fauna for a park covering less than 2,000 sq km. Only the neighbouring and larger Virunga National Park in Congo has a large total in Africa.

CROCODILES CHANNEL CRUISE: A favourite visitor activity is the

SPECTACULAR

two-hour return launch trip from Mweya Peninsula

Visitors are spoilt for choice in terms of activities,

diles, hundreds of hippo and a variety of waterbirds

with the park offering boat trips on the 40 km

inhabit the shore, while herds of elephant, buffalo,

Kazinga Channel, a tour of the spectacular volcanic

leopard, waterbuck and Uganda kob are regular

craters, lion viewing on the Kasenyi Plains, chim-

visitors from the plains beyond.

along the Kazinga Channel to Lake Edward. Croco-

panzee tracking in the Kyambura Gorge, walks in the Maramagambo Forest and game drives in the

GAME VIEWING: The Kasenyi grasslands east of

remote wilderness of Ishasha.

Mweya are an ideal venue for lion encounters because of the prides in this area which prey

LANDSCAPE The national park is located on the floor of the Albertine Rift Valley, enclosed by the valley escarpments, the Rwenzori Mountains and lakes Edward and George.

on herds of Uganda kob. Visitors can join in the park’s Predator Research Project as its members monitor radio-tagged prides. In the far south of the national park, the grasslands of Ishasha are home to elephant, topi, buffalo and the park’s most celebrated residents, the tree-climbing lions of Ishasha. HOT AIR BALLOONING: While visitors search the Kasenyi grasslands at ground level for lions, hot air ballooning offers an exciting new perspective with a

outside the national park, at Katwe Salt Lake, visitors can see salt being produced in a process dating back for centuries. FOREST WALKS: Birdwatchers can visit Maramagambo Forest and view forest species in addition to their water and grassland sightings; while nearby Kyambura Gorge is home to chimpanzees and other primates. bird’s-eye view of the morning’s activity. Later, well away from predators, the balloon travellers land for a bush breakfast.

WHERE TO STAY ACCOMMODATION: Hotels and lodges are available

VOLCANIC CRATERS: Flamingos are regular visitors

to meet all budgets. They include high-end lodges

to the craters at Kyambura and Katwe – part of

and tented camps as well as basic hostels, cottages

a scenic cluster of extinct volcanic craters that

and campsites. Mid-range and budget properties

can be viewed from the 24 km Crater Drive. Just

can be found outside the park boundary.

BIRDWATCHING

GETTING THERE

Enthusiasts have a range of options, from easy waterbird sightings from the relative comfort of a launch to careful searches for rare species in the Maramagambo Forest. Among the rare or remarkable birds are black-rumped buttonquail, broad-billed roller, papyrus gonolek, western-banded snake eagle, African fish eagle, whitebacked night heron, Pel’s fishing owl, black bee eater, shoebill, rufus-bellied heron, great blue turaco, black-and-white casqued hornbill and African finfoot.

By road there are two routes, both on good tarmac and about the same length, from Kampala to Mweya in the heart of the park. The northern route goes via Fort Portal and the Rwenzori (410 km) while the southern route passes Lake Mburo (420 km). Ishasha, in the southern part of the park, is 63 km from Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. There are daily flights from Kampala to airstrips near Mweya and Ishasha. Journey time is 90 minutes.

Natural wonders are a magnet for visitors THE Mount Rwenzori area of Western Uganda has been a place of fascination for visitors ever since the explorers Henry Morton Stanley and Emin Pasha came here in 1889.

are the 5,100 metre Rwenzori Mountains, whose western and southern slopes drop into the drier plains of the Western (or Albertine) Rift Valley, 620 to 900 metres above sea level. To the east lies the green and hilly Fort Portal plateau, dotted with

This most dramatic and scenic region of Uganda is

craters.

located between Lake Albert in the north and Lake George in the south. It’s terrain that rises for over

KIBALE NATIONAL PARK: Famous for its primate

4,000 metres from the plains of the Semliki Valley

populations, this mainly forested park covers 795 sq

to the snow-capped summits of the Rwenzori.

km. It contains 13 species of primates, nine of them diurnal, including chimpanzee, L’Hoest’s monkey

The landscape between these extremes is punc-

and red colobus. Chimpanzee tracking is the

tuated by crater lakes and covered with tropical

principal activity, while the park and the commu-

forests, savanna, tea plantations and farmland.

nity-run Bigodi Wetland Sanctuary are a paradise

There is an abundance of flora and fauna including

for birdwatchers, with 335 listed species.

big game in Queen Elizabeth National Park, rare forest birds in Semliki National Park, primates in

RWENZORI MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK: The

Kibale Forest and giant Afro-alpine plants in the

snowy source of the Nile was referred to by early

shadow of the Rwenzori.

geographers many centuries before European explorers put it on their maps. This is the Rwenzori

CLIMATE: The region has a pleasantly cool climate

or Mountains of the Moon, at 5,100 metres the

thanks to its altitude. Conditions on the low-lying

highest mountain range in Africa. It features valleys

rift valley floor are hotter, with a mean maximum of

carved by glaciers and filled with colourful mosses

28°C (80°F), and drier.

and giant versions of lobelias, heathers and groundsels. A chain of basic huts and campsites is in place

CULTURE AND PEOPLE: The Rwenzori is inhabited

to allow climbers to ascend the mountain.

by the Bakonzo mountain people, while the Semliki valley contains the Bwamba tribe and a community

SEMLIKI NATIONAL PARK: The easternmost tract

of Batwa pygmies. East of the mountains, the

of the Congo’s great Ituri Forest, Semliki is an ideal

Kingdom of Toro is home to the Batoro people.

destination for primate viewers and birdwatchers. There are 15 primate species living within 6 km of

CRATER FIELDS: Large clusters of extinct volcanic

the primeval hot springs at Sempaya, as well as 441

craters can be found in the scenic Ndali crater field,

recorded bird species including 216 forest birds and

20 km south of Fort Portal. Dominating this region

80 Central African species rarely found in other East

There is a surfaced road, 300 km in length, between Kampala and Fort Portal. Mweya is 120 km south of Fort Portal in the centre of Queen Elizabeth National Park. There are daily flights to Mweya/Kasese and Semliki from Entebbe. Journey time is one to two hours, depending on the route.

African forests. Black dwarf hornbill, shining blue kingfisher, Nkulengu rail and yellow-throated nicator are among the star players. Keen birdwatchers can stay overnight in basic UWA bandas, while a day trip from Fort Portal to Semliki is now feasible thanks to a new tarmac road. FORT PORTAL: Surrounded by tea plantations and with the scenic Rwenzori as its backdrop, Fort Portal is widely regarded as Uganda’s most attrac-

LANDSCAPE The landscape is dominated by the Rwenzori range, with its western and southern slopes dropping into the drier plains of the Western Rift Valley. The Fort Portal plateau to the east is dotted with volcanic crater lakes awaiting discovery by vehicle, bicycle or on foot

tive town. With a pleasant climate and a selection of good hotels, it’s an ideal base for exploring the region.

town. Highlights are the Primate Lodge at Kibale’s chimp tracking trailhead; the eccentric Ndali Lodge;

ACCOMMODATION

the log-built Kyaninga Lodge, on the rim of a crater;

There is a wide choice of lodgings in Kibale Forest,

a beautifully restored property dating back to

overlooking the crater lakes, and in Fort Portal

colonial times.

and the Mountains of the Moon Hotel in Fort Portal,

Nile adds magic to favourite game park TODAY the 5,000 sq km wilderness of Murchison Falls National Park is home to a large diversity of flora and fauna – doing full justice to its description by the late Winston Churchill as ‘Kew Gardens and the Zoo on an unlimited scale’.

then races down 80 km of rapids to Murchison Falls, where it plunges 40 metres to the rift valley floor. River launches provide visitors with an ideal game viewing platform on the broad waters below the falls. There are opportunities for traditional game drives and forest walks to see birds and primates. Outside

Murchison Falls is the country’s largest conservation

the park, cultural sites trace the story of the ancient

area, with 76 mammal species, including buffalo,

Bunyoro Kingdom.

elephant, giraffe, hartebeest, hippo, leopard, lion and Uganda kob, as well as 450 bird species

CLIMATE: Temperatures are hot in the Nile corridor

in varied habitats such as savanna, open water,

below the falls, with a mean high of 29°C (80°F).

papyrus swamp, woodland and tropical forest.

Wet seasons are from mid March to June and in August and September.

It’s all a far cry from the 1970s and 1980s when the local wildlife suffered at the hands of poachers.

CULTURE AND PEOPLE: Two ethnic groups are separated by the Murchison Nile: the Bantu-

Central to the life of the national park is the River

speaking Bunyoro and the Nilotic peoples of

Nile, which sustains hippo, crocodile and waterbirds

northern Uganda. South of the river, the Bunyoro

in large numbers as well as visiting animals. The

Kingdom was once a great empire. More recently,

river enters the national park at Karuma Falls and

thousands of Acholi and Langi people living north of the Nile were displaced in a long rebellion. The

LAND OF CONTRAST The terrain is divided by a steep escarpment that drops from the Bunyoro plateau to Lake Albert and the Albertine Rift Valley. On the plateau within the park there is woodland and tropical forest, while the hot rift valley plains are covered by savanna and bush. Beyond the Nile, the flat landscape is dry.

region has been at peace since 2006 but these societies are still getting back to normal.

ESSENTIAL ACTIVITIES There are three ‘must do’ activities for visitors. The first is a morning game drive across the scenic Buligi grasslands to the Albert Nile. The second is a game viewing launch trip upriver to the base of the Nile’s highest waterfall. Thirdly, you can visit to the Top of the Falls and experience the sights and sounds of the roaring Nile.

GETTING THERE The park’s main tourism centre is Paraa, 310 km from Kampala. There is a surfaced road as far as Masindi town, 85 km before Paraa. Daily flights from Kampala to Murchison. Journey time is one hour.

WHERE TO STAY Two upmarket lodges can be found in the national park and its immediate surroundings. There is also a choice of mid-market tented camps and lodges.

CULTURAL SITES: Hoima town, south of the park, has visitor sites related to the Bunyoro Kingdom: Visitors can take a morning flight in a hot air

Mparo Tombs, Hoima Palace and Katasiha Fort;

balloon to enjoy a bird’s-eye view of Lake Albert or

while salt has been produced since the 13th

Murchison Falls (depending on wind direction) and

century at Kibero Salt Gardens beside Lake

discover what giraffe and elephant look like from

Albert.

200 metres up. RHINO VIEWING: A guided walk in the 70 sq km The park is a paradise for birdwatchers, with 450

Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary provides a unique oppor-

recorded species. Enthusiasts can cruise downriver

tunity to encounter rhinos in the wild. In the

towards Lake Albert in search of waterbirds such as

1980s Uganda had been left without rhinos as a

the shoebill, while 59 ‘restricted range’ species can

result of heavy poaching. More recently, animals

be found in the Budongo and Kaniyo Pabidi forests.

were brought to Ziwa from Kenya and the United

Primates, including chimpanzee, can be tracked in

States and the sanctuary’s first baby rhino was

Kaniyo Pabidi forest.

born in 2009.

Road less travelled is full of wonder VISITORS looking for spectacular scenery in a part of Uganda far away from the more popular and crowded destinations can always head east and north from Kampala – in the opposite direction from the normal southwest tourist trail.

CLIMATE: Mount Elgon has dry seasons from June to August and December to March. The night-time temperatures are cold at high altitude. Kidepo Valley is hotter and drier, with one long dry season between October and March. CULTURE AND PEOPLE: The pastoralist Karamojong

Mount Elgon is the most distinctive geographical

people live between Mount Elgon and Kidepo Valley

feature in Eastern Uganda. It is the world’s largest

where they maintain a traditional semi-nomadic

free-standing volcanic mountain, with a height of

lifestyle. On the mountain’s southern slopes, the

4,321 metres. On its slopes, walkers will find water-

Bagisu people are known for their colourful imbalu

falls, montane panoramas and vast forests. In the

ceremony, held twice a year, in which boys are

far north, on the border with South Sudan, lies

initiated into manhood.

Kidepo Valley National Park, one of Africa’s last great wildernesses, where visitors can find a range of exciting wildlife.

WATERFALLS MOUNT ELGON: As a setting for both short and extended hikes, Mount Elgon National Park is hard to beat. From its Forest Exploration Centre at Kapkwai, visitors can go on guided walks through montane forest and bamboo to reach caves and waterfalls. On longer treks, several days in duration, they can reach the 4,321 metre summit of the mountain. The main peaks are, in fact, the fractured rim of a huge caldera – the world’s largest at 8 km in diameter – containing glacial lakes and hot springs. There are excellent walking opportunities outside the park, too, notably at Sipi village, where the Sipi River plunges over three impressive waterfalls in quick succession. Those who prefer a more gentle form of exercise can choose to go on a Coffee Tour, following the progress of Mount Elgon’s famous Arabica beans from plant to percolator. If these

EXTINCT VOLCANOES The extensive plains that cover the eastern frontier of Uganda are dotted with extinct volcanoes and isolated mountain ranges, of which the highest and most extensive is the 4,000 sq km Mount Elgon. The landscape becomes progressively drier as you travel north through the remote region of Karamoja towards Kidepo Valley.

activities don’t seem challenging enough, there is always the option of covering longer distances and attaining greater heights by pedalling a mountain bike along the local byways. A special challenge is the annual Mount Elgon Mountain Bike Race, now in its sixth year. There are opportunities, too, for tandem paragliding. ACCOMMODATION: Visitors to Mount Elgon National Park will find basic cottages at Kapkwai, while Sipi village is surrounded by mid-range lodges, backpacker cottages and campsites. Mbale town has several good hotels. Located at the foot of the mountain, below the towering Wanale Cliffs, it is an ideal base for exploring the region. TRAVEL: Mbale is 230 km from Kampala – a four-hour drive on good tarmac roads – while Sipi is a further 50 km away (a total journey time of five hours).

KIDEPO VALLEY NATIONAL PARK: Located in the

ACCOMMODATION: Kidepo has one upmarket lodge

farthest corner of the Karamoja district, on the

and one mid-range lodge, plus basic cottages and

Sudan border, Kidepo is one of Africa’s most

wilderness campsites.

magnificent wildernesses. Here, visitors can spot big game favourites such as cheetah, eland,

KARAMOJA: Security in the Karamoja sub-

elephant, giraffe, hartebeest, hyena, lion and zebra

region has been greatly improved, representing a

– as well as one of Africa’s largest single herds

milestone achievement in tourism terms. Formerly,

of buffalo – as they roam the extensive grass-

Karamoja was a wild area notorious for armed

lands against a backdrop of distant mountains.

cattle raids between pastoralist clans. Tourists were

The wildlife includes species such as aardwolf,

advised to avoid it. Today, however, thanks to initia-

bat-eared fox, cheetah, striped hyena and ostrich

tives by NGOs and a handful of safari companies,

not often seen in other protected areas of Uganda.

an effective disarmament programme has been

Owing to its isolation, Kidepo is little visited, so

achieved and visitors can experience the tough

visitors can expect to enjoy an atmosphere of

realities of traditional Karamojong life in this

solitude and freedom.

forbidding but starkly beautiful region.

GETTING THERE

OTHER ATTRACTIONS: Nyero Rock paintings near Kumi.

There are flights between Kampala and Kidepo, with a journey time of just one hour 45 minutes, and many visitors prefer to go by plane rather than undertake the 590 km road journey. Today, however, tarmac roads are reaching ever further into north-eastern Uganda, replacing seasonally rough and unreliable routes with smooth all-weather surfaces. As a result, more and more visitors are choosing to travel by road, with an overnight stop in Murchison Falls National Park or in the towns of Gulu or Kitgum.

A spectacular source of high adventure WHEN the British explorer John Speke proclaimed the source of the River Nile in 1862 he settled a geographical puzzle that could be traced back to the Ancient Egyptians.

are performed at shrines at Bujagali Falls and Kalagala Falls. JINJA: The Jinja Nile is one of Uganda’s main tourism destinations, a place for both leisure and

The place reached by Speke all those years ago

adventure, offering a combination of high-octane

is the river’s sole outflow from Lake Victoria and

activities and relaxing excursions, good hotels and

beside it stands the town of Jinja.

restaurants, pleasant scenery and an enduring historical significance.

Today, the journey to the headwaters of the Nile is a lot more comfortable than in 1862 and thousands of visitors make their way to Jinja each year. They may

BUJAGALI

be drawn by a sense of history or a fondness for

In Jinja itself, a quiet riverside town, the main attrac-

geography or simply by an overall feeling of wonder

tion is a visit to Speke’s Source of the Nile. But those

at the grandness of nature.

in search of adventure tourism should travel 7 km north to Bujagali, where the pace of life is rather

Jinja has fine buildings dating from colonial times

quicker. Tourists, backpackers and overland truckers

and many of these have been restored as hotels and

flock to the river in their thousands each year to

restaurants. An air of adventure still persists in this

raft a sequence of high-grade rapids on what many

place. And while some visitors are happy to enjoy

regard as one of the world’s finest stretches of white

a game of golf on the river bank, others relish the

water. This opportunity may be limited in future,

opportunity to put their skill and nerve to the test in

however, as the extent of white water is reduced by

the turbulent headwaters of the Nile. This can take

a succession of hydropower dams.

the form of a kayak, a raft, a jet boat, a quad bike or, for the stout-hearted, even a bungee rope strapped

In addition to rafting, there is a range of other activi-

around your ankles.

ties on the Jinja Nile to keep the adrenalin flowing. They include kayaking, quad biking, jet boating and

CLIMATE: The weather in the Nile corridor is fine all

a 44-metre bungee jump over the river. For those

year round.

in search of more tranquil activities, the creation of Lake Bujagali behind a new hydro-power dam in

CULTURE AND PEOPLE: The Nile is of great

2012 has opened the way for family boat trips, fishing

cultural importance to the tribes who live on

excursions, sundowner cruises and paddle boarding.

either side: the Baganda on the west bank and

Meanwhile, horse riding and mountain biking provide

the Basoga on the eastern or Jinja side. Rituals

an alternative means of exploration on shore.

WHERE TO STAY Jinja town has upmarket guesthouses and mid-range and budget hotels. Bujagali Falls has backpacker accommodation and a mid-range tented camp. Upriver, superior lodges overlook the rapids at Kalagala. Mabira Forest has an upmarket lodge and backpacker accommodation.

MABIRA FOREST: Located between Kampala and Jinja, just an hour from the capital, this tropical forest is Central Ugandaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest forest reserve, with opportunities for guided and unguided forest walks, specialist birdwatching, mountain biking and Ugandaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first canopy-level zip line. TRAVEL: Jinja is 80 km east of Kampala. It takes two to three hours to get there on the congested direct route and about two hours on the quieter 120 km route north of Mabira Forest. Both roads are tarmacked.

NILE RAPIDS A series of rapids with forested islands in mid channel marks the progress of the River Nile below its outlet from Lake Victoria as it passes between high, cultivated banks.

UGANDA TOURISM BOARD HEAD OFFICE 42 Windsor Crescent, Kololo, Kampala PO Box 7211, Kampala Tel: +256 414 342 196/7 Email: utb@utb.go.ug ENTEBBE Arrivals, Entebbe International Airport Tel: +256 (414) 321 444 GARDEN CITY Garden City Shopping Centre, Kampala Tel: +256 486 660 500 CULTURAL CENTRE Uganda National Cultural Centre (formerly National Theatre), Kampala Tel: +256 434 660 427

MINISTRY OF TOURISM, WILDLIFE & ANTIQUITIES Rwenzori Towers 2nd Floor Plot 6 Nakasero Road PO Box 4241, Kampala Tel: +256 414 561 700 Email: info@tourism.go.ug

CIVIL AVIATION AUTHORITY HEAD OFFICE Entebbe Road, Entebbe Tel: +256 414 352 000 Email: aviation@caa.co.ug

UGANDA NATIONAL MUSEUM Plot 5-7 Kira Road PO Box 365, Kampala Tel: +256 414 232 707

UGANDA INVESTMENT AUTHORITY TWED Plaza, Plot 22B Lumumba Avenue PO Box 7418 Kampala Tel: +256 414 301 000 Email: info@ugandainvest.go.ug

UGANDA WILDLIFE AUTHORITY Plot 7 Kira Road, Kamwokya PO Box 3530, Kampala Email: info@ugandawildlife.org Tel: +256 414 355 000/312 355 000

The official publication of: THE UGANDA TOURISM BOARD 42 Windsor Crescent, Kololo PO Box 7211, Kampala, Uganda Tel: +256 (414) 342 196/7 Fax: +256 (414) 342 188