Explorer ISSUE 1: APRIL-JUNE 2015
Inflight magazine I www.auricair.com
Arusha
Top five things to do Page 28
Kiligolf
Buying into the dream
Pemba Island DISCOVER PARADISE What to wear on safari Style do’s and don’ts
CONTENTS
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24
Explorer Inflight magazine
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32
FEATURES
REGULARS
8 A-Z of Auric Air 15 Pemba Island
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20 What to wear on safari: Men
Welcome to our first issue
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Explorer News
‘the island less visited’ It’s just not cool to be flashy
22 What to wear on safari: Women
Just add lightness and think beige…
26 Kiligolf
Dream estate for lovers of wildlife – and golf
28 A-Town
Don’t rush Arusha
INSIDE:
Gear up for gnus, golf and great food
5 Foreword
24 STAY: Jongomero 40 EAT: Six Degrees South 42 DRIVE: Land Rover Discovery Sport 45 Auric Air route map
30 Investing in Tanzania
46 Travel information
32 Wildebeest whimsy
48 Pilot’s eye view
Let the boom times roll
What a gnu will do when he’s blue
34 Cessna Caravan
Reliable workhorse
36 Wine in Tanzania
Why makutupora is pure magic
38 Mrembo Spa
Holistic or high tech?
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INSIDE
Explorer Inflight magazine
Auric Air Services Ltd Mwanza Office PO Box 336 Mwanza Tanzania. Cell: +255 783 233 334; 255 736 200 849 Email : reservations@auricair.com Website: auric@auricair.com Explorer is published on behalf of Auric Air Services Ltd by:
Land & Marine Publications Ltd. 1 Kings Court, Newcomen Way Severalls Business Park, Colchester Essex CO4 9RA, United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com
ADVERTISING
Sales Manager Catherine O’Callaghan Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Cell: +44 (0)7769 110343 Email: auricair@landmarine.org No part of the contents of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishers. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in accordance with existing legislation. All advertisements and non-commissioned texts are taken in good faith.
Gear up for gnus, golf and great food BY GARY GIMSON, PUBLISHER
W
elcome to the first issue of Explorer – Auric Air’s new in-flight magazine.
Auric Air operates a dense network of flights across Tanzania. It also connects airstrips in Kenya’s Masai Mara and more recently has launched services between Mwanza and Entebbe. The airline has ambitious plans for further new routes, both domestic and international.
COVER
Pemba Island
So this new in-flight magazine is launched at a propitious moment for Auric Air. Many of our passengers are on their way to remote destinations throughout Tanzania and in all likelihood are heading out on safari. We have taken the liberty of offering some advice about what men and women should wear on safari.
IN THIS ISSUE:
While on safari, you will probably encounter a wildebeest or two, especially if you’re visiting the Serengeti or the Mara. We take a light-hearted look at the savannah’s much-maligned gnu.
Jongomero Experience the beauty of Africa in pure luxury
Today you are flying in a Cessna Caravan. Explorer takes a look at this truly remarkable aircraft. Then we visit Pemba, experience holistic healing in Zanzibar, travel to Arusha, stay at Jongomero, play golf and sample Tanzania’s remarkably fine wines. Wildebeest Migration Anything goes when its time for the gnu to move
I hope you enjoy your flight with Auric Air. If you have any comments about this magazine, please feel free to contact me at publishing@landmarine.com.
The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions.
Pemba Island The unlikely destination that will leave you wanting more
©2015 Land & Marine Publications Ltd ■
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FOREWORD
Welcome to our first issue BY DEEPESH GUPTA, COMMERCIAL MANAGER, AURIC AIR
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Today, Auric Air flies to over 30 destinations across Tanzania and beyond.
I hope that you find our new magazine of interest and that it makes your flight more enjoyable.
Enjoy your flight with Auric Air. If you have any comments to make about our new in-flight magazine or our service, please write to me at the email address below.
t gives me great pleasure to welcome our passengers to the first issue of our quarterly magazine, ‘Explorer’.
I am delighted to say that Auric Air has come a long way in a short time and has ambitious plans to continue its development as a regional airline.
Deepesh Gupta Commercial Manager Auric Air Services Ltd Email: dgupta@auricair.com
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News MORE FLIGHTS TO ZANZIBAR Auric Air has increased frequencies between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar to five flights each day from 15 February. The additional flight departs Dar es Salaam at 09.00 and returns from Zanzibar at 09.30. The extra flight is in response to passenger demand on this route.
NEW ADDITION TO FLEET Auric Air has taken delivery of its 10th Cessna Caravan 208 aircraft. This model is specifically the C208B EX, and the third one of the kind in Auric’s fleet. Like the rest of the Auric Air fleet, the Caravan was delivered new directly from the United States, entering service in March. This new addition will enable Auric Air to expand capacity on existing routes and to launch new services (see separate item about Tabora and Kahama).
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NEW DESTINATIONS Auric Air has added Tabora and Kahama to its route network. As of the first week of May, the new service will operate three times a week from Mwanza. The routing is: Mwanza –Kahama – Tabora – Kahama – Mwanza. For those unfamiliar with the new destinations, Tabora is a major tobacco centre and Kahama is a mining town.
AURIC AIR NEWS
Three reasons to visit:
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World-class diving destination with exquisite coral reefs
Mafia Island
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3
One of the safest and friendliest places in the Indian Ocean
Miles and miles of pure white unspoilt sand
US ROAD SHOW Auric Air joined a road show to the United States in January. The road show was organised by the Tanzanian Tourist Board. The airline’s sales and marketing team visited new and existing clients on the US west coast in Los Angeles, San Francisco and Seattle. The Tanzanian delegation was led by Dr Adelhelm James Meru, permanent secretary of Tanzania’s Ministry of Natural Resources and Tourism. Leading travel agents and tour operators in the three cities were invited to the event, which featured presentations to promote Tanzanian tourism. Private stakeholders from Tanzania took part along with Tanzanian government representatives.
TRADE SHOW VISIT At the beginning of February, Auric Air visited the Shooting, Hunting and Outdoor Trade Show 2015 at the Mandalay Bay Convention Centre in Las Vegas.
AURIC AIR ONLINE www.auricair.com www.facebook.com/auricair www.twitter.com/auricair www.instagram.com/auricair
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A-Z OF AURIC AIR A is for Auric Air
C is for Cessna Caravan
Starting from humble beginnings in 2001, our airline now serves some of the most exciting and remote destinations across Tanzania and East Africa. It is Tanzania’s preferred corporate and safari airline, flying 7,500 passengers to 30 destinations each month. Welcome aboard.
If you’re in the air with Auric right now, you will be travelling in one of our Cessna C208B Caravan aircraft. Head to Page 34 for an in-depth look at Auric Air’s chosen workhorse.
B is for Bukoba Located on the western shore of Lake Victoria, Bukoba is the capital of Kagera and home to Kagera Sugar Football Club, who play at the top level of professional football in Tanzania. Auric Air flies there on a regular basis.
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D is for Dodoma Translating into English from Gogo (a Bantu language), Dodoma literally means ‘it has sunk’. This is quite the opposite however, for the national capital of Tanzania and capital of Dodoma region, where much of the country’s wine is produced. On Page 36 we propose a toast to celebrate Tanzania’s tipples.
A-Z OF AURIC AIR
E is for Eat
F is for Forodhani Gardens
The cuisine of Tanzania is quite varied, but the most popular dish is ugali (maize porridge), a staple of many meals. At the coast, the seafood is fresh and delicious. Zanzibar offers an abundance of spices, creating a wonderful mix of flavours. Nyama choma (grilled meat), mandazi (fried dough) and samosas are all worth trying, too.
Located in Stone Town, Zanzibar, Forodhani Gardens is by day a beautiful park, and by night a lively street food market, filled with local people and tourists alike. One of the few places where you can enjoy a true Zanzibar pizza, it’s a ‘must see’ for visitors to the island.
G is for Golf It’s ‘tee’ time in Tanzania, with a selection of golf courses to satisfy any enthusiast. There’s the recently opened Sea Cliff Golf Course, the first course in Zanzibar, with nine holes and 18 tees; and the Kilimanjaro Golf & Wildlife Estate (Kiligolf), which we explore on Page 26.
FORODHANI
See these beautiful gardens come to life at the nightly market
H is for Hippopotamus One of Africa’s greatest animals cannot always be found on safari; so if you want to be sure of sighting a hippo, take a trip with Auric Air to Rubondo Island, where they reside along with crocodiles and others. ›
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A-Z OF AURIC AIR
I is for Islands Auric Air flies to some wonderful islands in the Zanzibar archipelago, including the main island of Unguja (Spice Island) as well as Pemba (Green Island) and Mafia, home to some of the most amazing marine life in East Africa.
J is for Jongomero For the first issue of ‘Explorer’ we head to breathtaking Jongomero Camp in Ruaha National Park to experience the secluded wilderness. This luxury camp on the bank of the Jongomero sand river will leave you wanting to stay another night or two.
K is for Kilimanjaro Kilimanjaro, famously the highest mountain in Africa, is also the highest free-standing mountain in the world. Located in the north-east of Tanzania, the mountain is close to the Kenyan border and can be reached via Arusha Airport.
L is for Lake Tanganyika One of the African Great Lakes, Lake Tanganyika is the second largest lake in Eastern Africa and the second deepest in the world. It stretches across four countries: Tanzania, Democratic Republic of Congo, Burundi and Zambia. Auric Air offers private charter flights to Kipili Airstrip nearby.
GREAT LAKE
giulio napolitano / Shutterstock.com
Fly with Auric Air to Lake Tanganyika, the second-deepest in the world
M is for Mining
Q is for Quest for Big Five
Tanzania is the fourth-largest gold producer in Africa and the sole producer of beautiful tanzanite. Also famous for its diamonds, Tanzania has a well developed mining industry, producing quality gemstones and minerals such as tsavorite, spinel and spessartite.
Many safari-goers have one overriding ambition while in the bush: to see the Big Five group of famous ‘game’ animals: African lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo, African leopard and rhinoceros. If you’re en route to a safari now, take note, and see how many you can spot.
N is for National Parks Auric Air serves some of Africa’s best national parks. From the world-famous Serengeti to the relatively undiscovered Katavi to Kenya’s great Masai Mara, you can reach them all with Auric Air. Whether it’s a once-in-a-lifetime trip or you’re returning to the bush after many previous visits, an African safari is a great experience.
O is for Ocean Lapping the shores of Tanzania and its islands, the Indian Ocean is perfect for sea dwellers. You can go swimming, explore Mafia Island Marine Park, go whale and dolphin watching, take a dhow trip, and so much more.
P is for Packing If you’re anything like us, you will dread the chore of packing for a holiday or business trip. So we’ve tried to help out a little by offering some light-hearted advice about what to wear on safari. Our article starts on Page 20.
R is for Rubondo Island Away from the Zanzibar archipelago is another notable island served by Auric Air. Instead of being off the coast, Rubondo Island is tucked away in a corner of Lake Victoria. About 80 per cent of this secluded island is covered in dense forest. A paradise for wildlife fans, it provides a haven for elephant, giraffe, hippo, crocodile and many other exciting species. Auric Air flies there daily.
S is for Selous Chances are you’ve heard of Selous Game Reserve, but did you know it was named after the British explorer, hunter and conservationist Frederick Courteney Selous? His legacy lives on in this game park, situated in the south of Tanzania, and it is home to various animals such as elephants, buffalo and crocodiles.
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ARE YOU READING THIS? Then potentially so are 24,000 Auric Air passengers. Auric Air is Tanzania’s preferred corporate and safari airline, serving over 30 destinations. Auric’s chartered and scheduled flights fly to places larger aircraft cannot reach – into the heartlands of Tanzania, to Entebbe, to the Masai Mara, and much more. Reach Auric’s niche customer base, which includes: • Business executives and corporate key decision-makers in industries such as Mining, Oil Exploration, NGOs, Government, Local Businessmen, Bankers and Insurance • Luxury Tourism & Leisure Passengers • Owners & Managers of exclusive five-star lodges and camps Book your advertisement in Explorer to keep your business relevant and at the forefront of people’s minds. To advertise please contact: Catherine O’Callaghan / catherineocallaghan@landmarine.com Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 / +44 (0)7769110343 Skype: catherine-landmarine
Martchan / Shutterstock.com
A-Z OF AURIC AIR
Nick Fox / Shutterstock.com
SET SAIL!
Hop aboard a dhow and take in the beautiful views
T is for Tingatinga
W is for Water Sports
Named after its founder, Edward Saidi Tingatinga, this style of contemporary African art evolved in the Oyster Bay area of Dar es Salaam and then spread across East Africa. Tingatinga paintings are among the nation’s most purchased art forms and popular with tourists from all over the world.
Tanzania has some of the best venues in Africa for water sports. While activities are available on the mainland, Zanzibar is the ‘go to’ place for those who like getting their hair wet. From kite surfing to dhow trips to scuba diving, there’s something for everyone, whether you’re a fully fledged water baby or just like to dip your toes.
U is for Unguja Unguja is the largest and most populated island of the Zanzibar archipelago and is the island that most people refer to simply as Zanzibar. Famous for Stone Town – the birthplace of Freddie Mercury – as well as for its spices and its beautiful coast, Unguja is a jewel in Tanzania’s crown.
X is for Xplore Okay, so we cheated a bit with this one, but exploring East Africa should be on everyone’s bucket list. Auric Air’s scheduled and chartered flights will take you to some of the most amazing places in Tanzania and beyond. So start your East African adventure today.
V is for VIP
Y is for Yetu
Auric Air offers bespoke charter services, including a dedicated VIP travel manager and top-class security. Our VIP clients range from A-list celebrities to heads of state to top government officials, so it’s clear that Auric Air is a reliable and trusted carrier.
Yetu is the Kiswahili (also known as Swahili) word for ‘our’ and Tanzania is our land (‘Tanzania ni nchi yetu’). Tanzanians are proud of their country and will welcome you to come and experience all the delights it has to offer.
Z is for Zizz After a busy day on safari, in the water, or simply exploring, check out some of Africa’s best hotels, lodges and camps for a great night’s sleep. From five-star beachfront luxury to authentic wilderness camps, you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to catching up on some zizz. PUT YOUR FEET UP ...in one of Tanzania’s best hotels, lodges and camps
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PEMBA ISLAND
‘the island less visited’ Pemba Island
‘Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.’
Mark Twain BY JANE BARSBY
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PEMBA ISLAND
D
iscovery and exploration are not as easy as they used to be.
Everyone’s doing it. In 2014 over 1.1 billion tourists set out to broaden their horizons; and around 85 million of them ended up in France, the world’s most visited destination, while seven million of them found themselves at the top of the Eiffel Tower, the world’s most visited spot. So if you’d like to take the road less travelled and arrive at the destination less visited, where do you go? The answer, at least according to the United Nations World Tourism Organisation, is the pacific island of Nauru, which receives only 200 tourists a year. Marvellous! Well, not quite, because it’s
Pemba has everything that Zanzibar has, and more. Except the crowds. Perfect!
almost impossible to get there. Alternatively, you could try Somalia, which attracts just 500 tourists a year. But perhaps it’s not to everyone’s taste. Then again, you could try the island of Pemba, part of the Zanzibar archipelago of
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Tanzania. And while Zanzibar receives over
And the differences don’t end there.
100,000 tourists a year, Pemba is lucky to
Ringed by coral reefs, Pemba offers some
see more than a couple of thousand. Yet
of the finest dive sites in the world, while
Pemba has everything that Zanzibar has,
its coast is dotted with idyllic islets, most of
and more. Except the crowds. Perfect!
which are miniature desert island paradises devoid of habitation or visitors. Pemba also
Ancient ruins
offers a plethora of birds, butterflies and
Perennially overshadowed by Zanzibar – its
turtle and whale shark watching to be
more visible, more vocal and more popular
had anywhere in the Indian Ocean. As for
sister – Pemba is separated from the larger
culture, Pemba abounds in ninth-century
island by only 50 km of water; yet it could
Swahili ruins and ancient mosques and is
not be further away in ambience. Where
recognised as a cradle of traditional medi-
Zanzibar abounds in hotels, Pemba has
cine and cultural beliefs.
wildlife and some of the finest dolphin,
› Relax on the glorious beaches,
of which the best is probably Vumawimbi on the Kigomasha Peninsula.
› Check out the fish market of
Tumbe as the catch is brought in.
› Island hop around the offshore
islets.
› Take a boat ride to Mesali Island
very few; where Zanzibar is flat and sandy, spring up daily on Zanzibar’s beaches,
Pirate hideaways
those of Pemba remain utterly pristine;
Pemba is an island of one-offs. According
and whereas the scent of cloves no longer
to the local people, it is a magic island once
wreathes the more famous ‘Spice Isle’ of
inhabited by a race of giants. In the 17th
Zanzibar, the air is redolent of cloves on
century it is said that the infamous pirate,
Pemba, whose surface is embroidered by
Captain Kidd, had his headquarters on one
a thick quilt of millions of clove trees.
of the offshore islets. During the Shirazi
Pemba is hilly and fertile; where new resorts
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
for swimming, snorkelling, diving, birdwatching, turtlewatching and guided nature trails.
› Absorb the Swahili way of life at
Chake Chake’s Pemba Museum.
› Visit the ninth-century Chakwa
Ruins, 11th-century Ras Mkumbuu Ruins or 13th-century Pujini Ruins.
› Take a stroll in the cool Ngezi
Forest Reserve, home to various endemic bird species as well as to the flying fox, Kirk’s red colobus monkey, vervet monkey, blue duiker and marsh mongoose.
› Enjoy signature Swahili cuisine CRYSTAL CLEAR
Coral reefs, mini desert islands and dive sites. Paradise!
such as kingfish cooked in lime, ginger, garlic, coconut, tomatoes and onions; parrotfish with seaweed and oranges; tuna steaks steamed in ginger; and jackfish baked with limes.
› Absorb the fragrance of the
clove harvest (September to November) as the whole island comes together to pick the clove buds and lay them out to dry in the sun.
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PEMBA ISLAND
Pemba:
NEED TO KNOW
Size: Pemba is 70 km long and 22 km wide. Location: North of Zanzibar in the Zanzibar archipelago. Religion: 95 per cent Muslim. Economy: 75 per cent clove farming plus small-scale fishing and cattle rearing. period of its history Pemba was ruled
cuda, tuna and kingfish. Among the
by a sultan so cruel that he made
best sites in this marine conservation
the old men of the island crack nuts
area are: Fundu Reef (rose coral, red
with their bare gums; while today
and yellow sea fans, trigger fish and
Pemba is the last known home of the
wrasse); Kikota Reef (ideal for night
flying fox, the best place in the world
diving); Manta Point (close encoun-
to learn Swahili, and the only place
ters with giant manta rays) and the
in the Indian Ocean where you can
caves of Mesali Island (haunt of giant
watch a bullfight.
grouper).
Flying fox
Where to stay
The Pemba flying fox is the largest
Tourism is still in its infancy on
fruit bat in the world with a wing-
Pemba, so the choice of upmarket
span of over five feet. One of nature’s
hotels and resorts is limited. Perhaps
success stories, its numbers having
the most famous is the five-star
risen from a few hundred in the early
Manta Resort, renowned for its
1990s to some 22,000 today.
underwater bedroom (www.themantaresort.com). Other choices include
Dive sites
the five-star Fundu Lagoon Resort
Pemba Channel is the jewel of the
Lodge, an eco-friendly resort offering
East African dive site portfolio. Its
bungalows made out of recycled
deep waters promise dramatic walls
boats and natural local materials; and
and drop-offs, clear blue waters
the Kervan Saray Beach Lodge (www.
(average visibility 40 metres) and
kervansaraybeach.com). Alternatively,
encounters with eagle rays, manta
the island has a limited selection of
rays, Napoleon wrasse, great barra-
simple guesthouses.
Best time to visit: June to November and January to March. Best time for dolphin spotting is October to February. Main towns: Chake Chake is the main town. To the north is the port of Wete and to the southwest the port of Mkoani. Getting there: Auric Air flies to Pemba. Alternatively, visitors can take a half-day’s dhow ride from the mainland town of Tanga, or a ferry (five to six hours) or speedboat (about two hours) from Mkoani.
PEMBA
Get ahead of the crowds and explore the unexplored
Getting around: There is a limited bus service. Taxis, bicycles and motorcycles can be hired.
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(www.fundulagoon); the Pemba
‘Do not go where the path may lead. Go instead where there is no path and leave a trail’ Ralph Waldo Emerson auricair.com
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WHAT TO WEAR ON SAFARI: MEN
Safari style tips for men
It’s not cool to be flashy
BY GARY GIMSON
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I
n days past, a gentleman travelling
here and mark out the wearer as a safari
the rainy season) or dust (at other times) is
in East Africa would have opted
parvenu, or worse.
vital. Brand-new boots just out of the box
for a standard and probably ill-fitting
Camouflage is also off the menu. In fact,
safari outfit – the ‘white hunter’ look.
the wearing of combat gear is forbidden in
If you have seen Italian-American actor
many African states and for obvious reasons.
In terms of where to buy, I would recom-
The same goes for an outfit that looks as
mend The Safari Store in the UK, which sells
Victor Mature in the 1956 Hollywood
look naff, so wear them in before you arrive in Africa.
film ‘Safari’ or Stewart Granger in ‘King
if it might have been bought in the airport
the impressively authentic-looking Rufiji
Solomon’s Mines’ (1950) then you will
lounge just before departure or at your
range of bush apparel. There’s also Cape
know what I mean.
hotel on arrival; or one that is excessively
Union Mart in South Africa, which has a
For both Mature and Granger, the films’
laundered and pressed. So a bit of wear
good selection of bushwear, including its
costumer designers chose sand-coloured
and tear can come in handy for creating
K-Way brand, featuring excellent gear such
shirts with large chest pockets, matching
the right image and to give that perfectly
as Explorer Grego and Kloof trousers, soft
long pants and a bush hat with a leopard-
attired yet seasoned-traveller appearance.
fleeces and comfortable and appropriate
skin band. Shorts, it seems, were worn only by askaris in those far-off colonial days. Fast forward 60 years or so and a more
boots. These can be ordered on-line.
Ensemble
The Safari Store’s Steve Adams told ‘Explorer’: “We expedition test all our
Afro Chic style of safari wear is with us. Yet,
A bush hat is a useful and often necessary
products in Africa and do not sell anything
for the best-dressed among us, echoes
addition to this ensemble. In my opinion, a
unless it survives the expedition. Our
remain of that pre-independence sartorial
baseball cap – even one emblazoned with
last expedition took us the length of the
bush code.
the name of some remote and expensive
Okavango Delta in dugout canoes; and in
bush camp – should not be worn. Such
the next one we are testing our new range
East Africa really do make an effort to look
caps are best left for your guide or tracker
on a 350 km kayak jaunt down the Zambezi
good, yet a number fail to get the unwrit-
to wear.
River from Ngonye Falls to the Victoria Falls.
It’s good to see that many visitors to
ten dress code just right. Or, worse still, they
These days, a solar topee is a head
We sweat to make sure you are comfortable
don’t even bother and turn up on safari in
covering too far, perhaps, although I think
scruffy jeans topped by an unironed T-shirt,
it can look rather beguiling and classy on a
as the occupants of many a safari van will
woman. But unless you have matinée idol
ters, there’s no excuse for not having the
demonstrate.
looks, then men should probably avoid.
correct attire. And with some manufactur-
So, instead of looking out of place in the
Overall, a bit of dust can help create the
and cool on your safari.” So with access to the specialist outfit-
ers actively pursuing cross-over clothing
bush, I’d like offer some advice for men.
illusion of a regular and knowledgeable
and footwear ranges you can always wear
First, I would choose a long-sleeved, fitted
visitor to this part of the world. The same
the same gear for, say, hiking when you get
and breathable shirt (with the obligatory
goes for a solid pair of boots. Some mud (in
home again.
chest pockets) in bottle green or khaki, made of cotton or a more modern material such as MaraTech. Ideally, the shirt needs to be paired with zip-off-leg trousers – ideal for those warm days as well as chilly nights around the campfire. This outfit can be topped with a fleece – preferably not a gilet – in a muted colour. Red, black and blue fleeces are a big no-no
A bit of wear and tear can come in handy for creating the right image and to give that perfectly attired yet seasoned-traveller appearance
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WHAT TO WEAR ON SAFARI: WOMEN
Safari style tips for women
Just add lightness and think beige…
BY KIRSTEN ALEXANDER
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G
oing on safari may no
Colour is more important than
you fly in. Typically, small planes are
longer be a once-in-a-
most people think. While white may
used to fly to remote destinations,
lifetime event, now that more
be associated with keeping cool, it is
and these come with varying, often
people are returning to Africa
not actually recommended for safari.
strict, weight limits.
after their first experience of the
Better to stick to neutrals. Beige and
On Auric Air, for example (as you
great outdoors; but every safari
khaki may be a no-go for the office,
probably will know by now) the limit
regular has to start somewhere.
but they’re a definite yes in the
is 15 kg.
We all have to choose the safari,
bush. They’ll keep you subtle in the
book the flight, grab our pass-
scenery, and they also camouflage
fully provides the weight in grams
port and decide what to pack in
any dirt. (Note: definitely no real
of each item it sells, so you can
our bags.
camouflage. At all.)
pack sensibly rather than have a
Knowing what to wear on safari
Although shirts may not be the
The Safari Store of London help-
last-minute rummage at the airport,
can be tricky as there seems to be
most flattering of garments, they
throwing socks and undergarments
a never-ending spiral of things to
are practical; and these days you
out of your luggage, for all to see.
consider. Will it be hot? What about
can certainly find shirts designed
If nothing else, this screams ‘safari
at night? Do I need insect repellent?
for women rather than having to
novice’ to any bystander.
Are these shoes okay? What about
raid the men’s section of your local
a hat? (But I hate hats!) And there is
camping and hiking store.
nothing worse than trying to track down the Big Five when all you can
Soft, squishable luggage is a plus, as the holds can be quite tight. So it’s best to plan ahead, unless you can
Fashionistas
afford to charter another plane, just
worn that other shirt – the one that
If you want to glam up a bit – not
unnecessary) luggage.
didn’t scratch or do up awkwardly,
overly necessary, as Africa’s wild
the one you left at home, still in
creatures are not usually known to
why not admit defeat and leave it
its packaging, or still in the shop
be judgmental fashionistas – then
to the professionals? Nowadays,
because you never bought it.
consider a lightweight scarf. It’s
safari newbies can find or download
useful for keeping your hair out of
packing lists, especially designed
women had only two options when
your face, keeping the sun off your
for safaris by connoisseurs. Some of
dressing for a safari: comfortable or
neck or simply for a bit of pizzazz.
them will simply give you a list of
stylish. You could either adopt Meryl
Again, lightweight material and
things to pack, but others go into
Streep’s prim, ladylike look in ‘Out of
neutral colours are key, here.
a bit more depth. The Safari Store’s
think about is how you wish you’d
Previously, it might seem that
Africa’, or buy everything with the
While the task of choosing safari-
for your very expensive, heavy (and And if it really is all too daunting,
list, for example, helpfully takes into
word ‘utility’ in the name – utility
appropriate clothing may seem
account weight restrictions, so you
belt, utility boots, utility shirt, etc.
daunting, it’s worth noting the
know you will definitely be onto a
Thanks to advances in the textile
weight restrictions on the aircraft
winner with your safari style.
industry, and an all-round greater knowledge of what actually works on safari, women now have the perfect option of staying cool and looking cool at the same time. In terms of actual clothing, then, what should you pack for a safari? Well, there is a wide choice available for style-conscious women, so you don’t have to leave your sass back at camp with your beachwear.
If you want to glam up a bit – not overly necessary, as Africa’s wild creatures are not usually known to be judgmental fashionistas – then consider a lightweight scarf ■ auricair.com
23
STAY: JONGOMERO
W
e looked long and hard for the perfect bush camp to be the
subject of our review in this launch issue of ‘Explorer’ magazine. We evaluated the competing claims of many and noted their undoubted merits. We then whittled these down to a shortlist and eventu-
Climate, setting, pedigree?
All perfect…
24
ally we plumped for just one – a place where, given the choice, we would opt to stay when spending our hard-earned money. We all agreed we wanted a property that summed up the safari experience; one that was remote, a little hard to get to, wild yet well run, unpretentious, truly authentic with a pedigree and, critically, a camp that blended effortlessly with its surroundings. So for us there was just one choice: Jongomero.
STAY: JONGOMERO Located 70 km from its nearest
But where to dine? Jongomero has
neighbour in Ruaha National Park,
a new breakfast terrace. Lunches are
Jongomero is about as remote as it
taken on the sand terrace and the
gets in Tanzania. There are no other
camp provides a hosted table so that
vehicles and no other people, just
guests can mingle with their fellow
great game viewing in what amounts
travellers, managers and guides. In
to a private safari in a private reserve.
the evenings, guests can enjoy a
Ruaha enjoys a unique micro-
sundowner in the park followed by
climate in Tanzania because of its
convivial evening drinks round the
status as a transitional zone between
campfire. Drinks are also served at the
the southern and eastern biomes.
dhow bar followed by private dinners
And this is reflected in the range
on the sand river bed (obviously not in
of plants and animals found in the
the green season), on the sand terrace
park including roan, sable and high
or by the swimming pool – a unique
concentrations of wild dog.
feature in Ruaha and it’s hippo friendly.
From June to November it has a evenings of 10˚C or less and warmer
Activities
days in the twenties. As the year
We also like the fact that walking is
unfolds, the days become warmer and
a key activity at the camp; and if you
the water sources in the park diminish.
haven’t walked in the bush, then you
Unlike most other parks, Ruaha has
haven’t been on safari. All bush walks
only one annual rain cycle that begins
are accompanied by an armed guide
in December; an exciting time, as the
as well by the obligatory Tanapa
seasonal sand rivers begin to flow
ranger. Guests on dawn game walks
around Jongomero.
set off at sunrise and stop for a
wonderful fresh climate with cool crisp
Just about every safari camp owner tries to talk up the sometimes dubious delights of the green
hearty bush breakfast; returning to camp just before midday. Taking this to the next level, there
season, but in Ruaha this is indeed
are longer walking safaris comprising
the perfect time for birdwatch-
two or three days out in the bush,
ers. There are over 560 species of
walking every day and having what
birds, many of which are migrating
Jongomero calls the Denys Finch
through the park at this time of year.
Hatton Experience, with bread baked on the campfire and bucket showers
Cuisine
under a canopy of trees – although
We all know that we go to the bush to
of wine and a rather agreeable
view game; but, if we are honest, for
cooked meal.
still with the luxury of a chilled glass
many the cuisine is almost as impor-
So if you’re looking for the real
tant as the wildlife. And Jongomero
thing and don’t want to be palmed
does not disappoint. The menu can
off with less-than-authentic imitations
best be described as European with a
of the true safari experience, then
few Swahili twists. And these tend to
look no further than.
match the climate. As Ruaha can be on the chilly side, the food is of the warm, comforting variety: succulent beef fillets with aioli or double-baked cheese, leek and ham soufflés.Yum.
Jongomero is owned and operated by the Selous Safari Company, which includes Siwandu (in the Selous) and Ras Kutani (at the coast) in its portfolio. These three properties can be combined.
JONGOMERO
A slice of pure luxury in the middle of nature’s finest
www.selous.com/jongomero
auricair.com
25
KILIGOLF
Dream estate for lovers of wildlife – and golf
added; these amount to roughly TZS 900,000 (about US$ 500) per square metre; so a 300 square metre house will cost TZS 270,000,000 (about US$ 150,000). Thus, for US$ 250,000 you can buy a villa overlooking the golf course, which is great value.
BY GARY GIMSON
T
plots for new villas.
Buyers have a title for their prop-
As an American-style golf devel-
erty, which is on a 99-year leasehold.
opment, Kiligolf is the first of a kind
Properties are for owners to live in as
he Kilimanjaro Golf &
in Tanzania. Construction of the golf
much or as little as they wish.
Wildlife Estate – known as
course has taken several years of
But how is work actually progress-
Kiligolf – is a 4,000 acre develop-
meticulous planning and attention
ing with the golf course? Kiligolf’s
ment about 25 km from Arusha.
to detail. The result is a truly natural
Zummi Cardoso says: “The last three
It is now nearing completion
environment in which to live, play
holes on the back nine are still under
and the golf course has 15 holes
golf and relax among predator-free
already in play.
wildlife.
The course at Usa River is just a
TEE TIME
Kiligolf’s lush 15-hole golf course is nearly complete
construction and the full 18 holes will be playable from 1 July. Work continues on the infrastructure of the estate
International Airport and a similar
Reserved
distance from Arusha. Nairobi can
More than half the plots have already
be reached by road in just under five
been reserved, with the early Phases 1
hours, but it’s probably better to fly
to 4 completely sold out. A new phase
which are connected to water and
into Kilimanjaro or Arusha from the
has just been released that includes
electricity mains as well as back-up
Kenyan capital.
some delightfully positioned fairway
generators. We have 12 house designs
plots on the back nine.
to choose from and owners submit
25-minute drive from Kilimanjaro
Set against the backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro, Kiligolf comprises a
Plots start at around TZS 160
with new roads going into new areas. New water features are also being completed on the back nine.” Zummi adds: “We sell serviced plots
their plans to a building committee
testing par-72, 18-hole championship
million (US$ 95,000) to which
before choosing a contractor of their
course dotted with cleverly spaced
construction costs must then be
own, or from a suggested list from
26
of Kiligolf’s existing clients are, for the
duiker, aardvark and bushpig. Part
moment, Dar-based residents look-
of the estate has been set aside as
ing for an upcountry property for
a wildlife area where other animals
weekends and longer breaks. Never-
such as impala, lesser kudu and
theless, there is interest from beyond
Grant’s and Thompson’s gazelle will
the nation’s borders and, fortunately,
be reintroduced. Plots will be set out
Tanzania warmly welcomes foreign-
in a way that allows the animals to
ers to come and invest. There are
live in harmony with the property
three types of resident permit. Class
owners.
A is for investors, Class B for employ-
While awaiting completion of
ees and Class C for retired people. It
the course, Kiligolf has lost no time
takes time to get a residence permit,
in holding its first competitions. A
but as long as all the documentation
number of small events have been
is in order it’s not difficult to obtain.
held including a ‘Movember’ tourna-
Most of Kiligolf’s foreign investors are
ment which raised money for the
likely to be in Class C.
Arusha Mental Health Trust and the Flying Medical Service. Kili-
Kiligolf. All properties must conform
golf also hosted a nine-hole night
purchasing to protect the surround-
Untamed
ing environment and other nearby
On the Kiligolf estate, the 360 plots
These events have been supported
property owners.”
are surrounded by a mass of wild
by the local community, by players
flora and fauna. The former sisal
from Arusha Gymkhana Club, and by
tors get membership of the golf
estate has been converted into
the TPC and Moshi golf clubs.
club. The yearly service fee includes
lush greens and verdant fairways
membership of the golf club for four
surrounded by untamed wilderness.
to the covenant they sign when
Aside from buying the plot, inves-
members of a family as well as covering estate road maintenance and security, among other things. Zummi acknowledges that most
The estate contains a wide variety INVEST Membership of the golf club is a bonus for investors
tournament using luminous balls.
The clubhouse is not yet finished but will open later this year. For the time being there is a small temporary
of wildlife as well as an impres-
clubhouse at the driving range which
sive birdlife. The animals currently
serves drinks and light snacks. It will
include dik-dik, steinbok, bushbuck,
be the final piece in the Kiligolf jigsaw.
Set against the backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro, Kiligolf comprises a testing par-72, 18hole championship course auricair.com
27
A-TOWN
Don’t rush
Arusha BY KIRSTEN ALEXANDER
Five things to do in A-Town without going on safari
K
nown by many as the starting point for an exciting safari trip around
Tanzania’s Northern Circuit, Arusha is almost synonymous with ‘safari stopover’. Virtually everyone who visits Tanzania’s northern parks will have to pass through it, which makes Arusha an often visited but less often explored town. But there is more to A-Town than just national parks – albeit wonderful national parks – so we take a look at the other delights that this gateway to the Northern Circuit has to offer.
CULTURAL HERITAGE CENTRE The eye-catching design of this building – made to look like a drum, a spear and a shield – provides a perfect summary of what awaits visitors inside: an equally informative and interesting look at the fascinating culture of Tanzania. There is an impressive collection of art and artefacts, exquisite precious and semi-precious stones, mouth-watering food and bargains galore, making it a real hub of culture and interest. Browse the sculptures, pick up some beautiful spices and absorb the wonderful Tanzanian culture.
28
SABLE SQUARE SHOPPING VILLAGE Set in four acres of beautiful grounds is Sable Square Shopping Village, the place to go in Arusha for a spot of retail therapy. Open seven days a week, with free parking and a delightful selection of shops and restaurants, Sable Square is a retail oasis with something for everyone, with coffee, art, clothing, jewellery, food, crafts and much more. Our top tips are the Banana Box Company for crafts and accessories; and the Bookhouse Bistro for a drink and a bite to eat.
KHAN’S BBQ If you prefer to grab something to eat while on the move, then Khan’s BBQ is an unlikely treat. Car repair garage by day, street food ‘restaurant’ by night, Khan’s BBQ is as delicious as it is memorable. The Indian-influenced food is cooked in front of you on a barbecue in the street with an impressive array of salads and sauces to complement the succulent meats. A must-try for serious foodies.
THE BLUE HERON
MESERANI SNAKE PARK
Whether it’s a morning espresso to kickstart the day, somewhere pretty and tranquil for a first date, a place to let the children run around while you catch up with friends, or just somewhere to enjoy a really good meal, why not set a course for the Blue Heron on Haile Selassie Road. Offering an exciting and varied menu, including some of the best pizzas in Arusha, the Blue Heron is the perfect place to stop, refuel, relax and enjoy the ambience of the garden with an ice-cold drink in your hand.
Just the mention of the word ‘snake’ can make some people feel uneasy, let alone the idea of a whole park full of the slithery creatures. But the Meserani Snake Park is more than just home to a variety of exotic and sometimes dangerous creatures; it offers everything from camel rides to a Maasai cultural museum. There is a well equipped camping area on site as well as a legendary bar. Of course, the park’s main event is the snakes, all 48 of them, and the collection of other reptiles housed in Meserani.
■
auricair.com
29
INVESTING IN TANZANIA
Let the boom times roll Why the big players are investing in Tanzania… BY JOHN TAVNER
W
Nations Conference on Trade and Develop-
ing up the list of global economic players
ment (Unctad).
who can see a golden opportunity to put
In terms of natural resources, Tanzania
their money to work in Tanzania? One name
hen you look at the personal
has yet to play its trump card, which is the
that has come to the fore is China, which
income of the average
vast reserves of natural gas that will begin
in 2013 invested US$ 1.4 billion in Tanzania
Tanzanian, this is not one of the world’s
to be exploited commercially in 2020. The
– significantly more than the United States,
rich nations. And yet, in the eyes of
country is believed to have something in
for example, which ploughed US$ 950
economic watchers and forecasters
the region of 200 trillion cubic feet of natu-
million into the Tanzanian economy in the
across the globe, Tanzania is a land of
ral gas reserves as well as huge – although
same year.
economic boom.
not yet proven – reserves of oil. In addition,
There’s no doubt about it: the national
Tanzania is the third-largest gold producing
economy of Tanzania is simply power-
country in Africa and also has large deposits
ing along. For the past three years or so
of coal and other minerals.
the country has been enjoying an annual
When natural gas production starts up
Investments Perhaps surprisingly, though, it was the United Kingdom which came top of the list
growth rate of around seven per cent – and
in five years’ time, Tanzania will be looking
of investors in 2014 by ploughing US$ 4.7
according to respected financial journals
to export liquefied natural gas (LNG) to
billion into Tanzania. This included signifi-
such as ‘The Economist’, this growth is set to
specific markets such as China, Chile, Paki-
cant investments by the British oil and gas
continue through 2015 and onwards to 2018.
stan and Spain as well as more generally to
company BG Group and the London-based
But what is Tanzania’s secret formula for
the continents of East and South Asia, Latin
brewing and beverage giant SABMiller.
economic success? What does Tanzania
America and Europe.
Another key player in 2014 was India, with
have going for it nowadays that has placed it
With these key reserves of natural
among the world’s most dazzling performers
resources in the background, Tanzania
while Kenya – where many multinational
in terms of the national economy?
has seen an exceptionally swift rate of
companies have their regional base – was
economic growth in a number of capital-
in third place with US$ 1.5 billion and China
intensive sectors. According to the World
was fourth.
Well, the answer can be stated quite simply in three parts.
Bank, the fastest-growing of these sectors
Valuable One is the fact that Tanzania is exception-
a hefty US$ 1.8 billion invested in Tanzania,
In the energy sector in particular, there
are communications, construction, financial
has been significant investment by Statoil of
services, manufacturing and retail.
Norway, Ophir Energy of the UK and the US
The benefits of economic growth are
energy company ExxonMobil.
ally well endowed with valuable natural
certainly not shared equally across the spec-
There is one obstacle in the way of
resources – most notably natural gas, oil
trum of Tanzanian society, however. It is the
progress that potential investors are well
and gold, but also including coal and other
urban technocrat who is enjoying the ‘feel
aware of, however, and that is the poor
minerals as well as precious stones.
good factor’ of inward investment, while his
state of the nation’s infrastructure, particu-
fellow Tanzanians in the rural communities
larly when it comes to energy generation.
ism destination thanks to its innate beauty
continue to feel the pinch. In 2012, for exam-
This has made Tanzania a costly environ-
and impressive range of flora and fauna.
ple, those working in service industries such
ment in which to operate. The problem is
And the third, highly significant, factor
as communications, financial services, retail
compounded by the limitations of domes-
is that in recent years Tanzania has a grate-
and transport were riding high on an annual
tic transport; and if the nation is to maintain
ful target for high levels of foreign direct
growth rate of eight per cent, while in the
its rapid growth, these issues will need to
investment (FDI). In 2013, for example,
agricultural sector – on which about 80 per
be addressed. On the other hand, the
Tanzania received about US$1.9 billion in
cent of Tanzanian householders rely for their
quality and availability of domes-
FDI – significantly more than neighbouring
income – it was only 4.2 per cent.
tic flights has improved
Another is the appeal of Tanzania as a tour-
Kenya – making it the highest beneficiary of FDI in East Africa, according to the United
30
So where is the inward investment coming from? Which are the nations head-
dramatically in recent years.
THE CHINA SYNDROME Some idea of China’s level of spending in Tanzania can be gained from one of its single largest investments recently. This was a US$ 3 billion agreement signed by the Sichuan Hongda Group to develop coal mining and steel making projects in Tanzania. At that time, too, the Export-Import Bank of China loaned US$ 1.2 billion to build a 500 km gas pipeline between Mtwara and Dar es Salaam. More Chinese-financed projects are expected to get under way in the sectors of agriculture, infrastructure and manufacturing.
ASK THE EXPERTS The Tanzania Investment Centre (TIC) has been a key factor in attracting inward investment. Established in 1997, the TIC provides a one-stop shop for all investors. In addition to mainland Tanzania, other incentives are offered by the Zanzibar Investment Promotion Agency (ZIPA) and the Zanzibar Free Economic Zones Authority (ZAFREZA). â–
auricair.com
31
WILDEBEEST WHIMSY
What a gnu will do when he’s blue BY JANE BARSBY
Confused about the migration of wildebeest? You will be…
E
veryone knows when it’s
by half again as many
time for the annual migra-
zebra and gazelle,
tion of the wildebeest in East
would dutifully commence
Africa, don’t they? Well, no,
their annual migration from
actually they don’t. Indeed, most
the short-grass plains of
people find the migration a rather
Serengeti to the lush green pastures
confusing phenomenon from
of the Mara. Then, when the grass
start to finish.
became sparse and the wildebeest
It happens in June, doesn’t it? In
got peckish, typically towards the end
Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve?
of October, they would set off again
Or is it in October in Tanzania’s
back to the Serengeti.
Serengeti National Park? Or does it
And that was that.
happen in both places? All year round? Made Simple’ are produced from
Direction
time to time, but somehow the
But these days anything goes.
arrows that swirl around East Africa,
Sometimes all the wildebeest set
first heading determinedly this way
off at once; sometimes only half of
and then doggedly that, only add to
them do. Sometimes they all set off
the confusion. Most of us are left just
and then some of them turn back.
as bemused about who is heading
Sometimes they all pull up short and
where, when or why as we were in
mill about for weeks without direc-
the first place.
tion. Sometimes they seem to be
Maps entitled ‘The Migration
Sometimes it seems as if the wildebeest themselves aren’t too sure. It used to be that, at some point
heading in both directions at once. And latterly a stubborn contingency, presumably worn out by all this
between the end of July and a delib-
movement to and fro, has taken up
erately vague point in November, over
permanent residence in Kenya.
1.5 million wildebeest, accompanied
32
Confusion indeed.
But then the wildebeest are the
nication system known as ‘swarm
masters of muddle. Until 1969, for
intelligence’ that allows them to use a
instance, there was no such thing
communal brain to determine where
as a migration. On the contrary, the
they’re going, why they’re going, and
wildebeest had remained placidly
when they’re going.
stationary since the dawn of time. But then, in 1969, seemingly with one
Pity they haven’t deigned to share this intelligence with the rest of us.
accord, they set off for the Mara. Nor do they all migrate even now: the blue wildebeest does and the black doesn’t. Why? Well, a million years ago, it seems, there was only one type of wildebeest, also known as a gnu. Then, for reasons known best to the animal itself, the wildebeest strain divided, so that now
Sometimes all the wildebeest set off at once; sometimes only half of them do
we have the blue wildebeest, which is grey, and the black wildebeest, which is brown. While the black wildebeest has learned to adapt to eating things other than lush young grass, the blue wildebeest has not. And so it is that the blue wildebeest migrates and the black doesn’t.
Perverse Just to confound things, there is a herd of blue wildebeest living in the Ngorongoro Crater whose members flatly refuse to migrate; and there is another in the Selous whose members have become almost sedentary. So wildebeest are perverse? Yes, but they are also clever. To protect themselves against attack, for instance, they take it in turns to sleep at night. And to determine the proximity of danger they listen to the pitch of alarm calls emitted by other animals – particularly baboons – to gauge the degree of danger. And that’s not all. Because, rather than blundering around East Africa in a chaotic frenzy as we have always supposed them to do, recent research
WILDEBEEST TRIVIA › The famous Gnu Song (‘I’m
a gnu – how do you do?’) was originally written and performed by Michael Flanders and Donald Swann and later the song was memorably featured on the Muppet Show.
› The plural of wildebeest is
wildebeest, wildebeests or wildebai (the word comes from the Dutch for ‘wild beast’).
› The wildebeest is the
most abundant big game species in East Africa, both in population and biomass.
› Most wildebeest live to an
age of 20 years (but some live to 30).
› The wildebeest has a top
speed of 64 km per hour.
› 90 per cent of wildebeest
calves are born within three weeks of each other.
› 70 per cent of wildebeest
carcasses are consumed by vultures.
has proved that the wildebeest have ■
evolved a sophisticated commu-
auricair.com
33
CESSNA CARAVAN
T
here’s every likelihood that you are
a reliable and robust aircraft that can land
short strip or heavy loads are all irrelevant
reading ‘Explorer’ while zipping
on rough airstrips and take off with ease
and are answered by a question: do you have
from bush runways of restricted length.
a C208B? If so, no problem, job done.”
across Tanzania with Auric Air. Or perhaps you have taken a complimen-
The Caravan has been in service as an
tary copy of our in-flight magazine with
aircraft since 1984, although the Auric Air fleet
you to peruse at your leisure.
is, of course, much younger. The Caravan has a
If so, then you will be flying – or will have flown – in a Cessna C208B Caravan (to give the aircraft its full and technical designation).
Reliability
payload of 1,200 kg and a range of three and a
Sajid adds: “On top of all that performance,
half hours’ flight with a reserve of 90 minutes.
the reliability is very, very good. Dispatch
Auric Air operations manager Sajid
rates are fantastic. Put passengers on the
Hussein extols the Cessna’s capabilities:
plane, and it will not disappoint. It is the
humble Caravan forms the backbone of the
“The performance of the plane at the price
perfect example of keep it simple, boss.”
fleets of many ‘safari’ type air operators. It’s
is unrivalled. It is a Land Cruiser of the skies.
Right across sub-Saharan Africa, the
Questions like what is the challenge, a rough
The Caravan has an excellent safety record and, in addition to bush capability, it is ideal for use on ‘thin’ commercial routes
RELIABLE
WORKHORSE ‘The performance of the plane at the price is unrivalled. It is a Land Cruiser of the skies’.
34
or where a high frequency of operation
in Uganda – a destination served from the
wanted to be sure that the aircraft we own
is more important than mere volume of
lakeside town of Mwanza.
were only owned [by Auric Air] and therefore
passengers – such as between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar.
Each of Auric Air’s 10-strong Caravan fleet was purchased new by the carrier. Its oldest
we direct purchase from the factory.” Luggage is stored in a series of easy-access
Caravan was delivered in 2008 and its most
cargo pods in the belly of the aircraft. This
engine Caravan seats just 13 passengers
recently acquired aircraft was added only
makes for speedy loading and unloading
when one pilot is flying, and 12 passengers
last year. This gives the fleet a youthful aver-
and for quick turnarounds. The downside
when two pilots are requested.
age age of just 2.8 years.
is that each passenger is restricted to an
As you will have noticed, the single-
Auric Air operates a 10-strong fleet of Caravans on routes throughout mainland Tanzania
industry standard of 15 kg in soft-sided bags
Modernisation
(which, in any case, is just about perfect for a
Zanzibar, Pemba and Mafia as
Sajid explains the Auric Air philosophy: “As
hand luggage at the pilot’s discretion, giving
well as to airstrips in the Masai
for modernisation, we wanted to adopt tech-
a useful 20 kg in total.
Mara over the border in Kenya
nology for safety reasons. As equipment gets
and to the paradise Indian Ocean islands of
and to Entebbe International Airport
better, safety gets enhanced. We
safari). Auric Air also allows a further 5 kg of
So as you enjoy your flight today, it’s worth knowing that there is a lot more to the workaday Cessna Caravan than might have been apparent before you came on board.
CESSNA CARAVAN
Reliable, modern and safe: Auric Air’s star in the sky
auricair.com
35
WINE IN TANZANIA
pure magic
Why makutupora is
Let’s raise a glass to Tanzania’s thriving wine industry
N
to local conditions. According to TDL brand manager Martha Bangu, the quality of the grape has improved tremendously in recent years and production is rising annually. Having got production on an upward curve, Martha now wants to see greater
o doubt the phrase ‘African
late frost kills the vines. The climate also has
local wine consumption: According to
wine’ will direct your thoughts
to be sunny, with just enough rain and low
Martha, the message is: “Celebrate your
to South Africa’s plentiful and exciting
humidity. Dodoma is one of the few places in
own success with the fruits of our success.”
offerings of red, white and rosé.
sub-Saharan Africa, outside the Cape, where
She goes on: “As a result, we then encour-
this ideal climatic mix can be found.
age national pride in a beautiful local
Perhaps surprisingly, though, Tanzania is
wine. We also tend to highlight Dodoma
right behind South Africa as the second-
Wines as a lifestyle choice. Consumers are
and with ever more investment being
Production
pumped into wine production, its wine
Tanzania’s wine production is in the hands
Tanzanian food or as part of a social gather-
industry is thriving.
of three companies: Tanzania Distilleries Ltd
ing. After all, toasting your success is no fun
(TDL), which is affiliated to South Africa’s
if you do it alone.”
largest wine producer in sub-Saharan Africa;
Tanzania’s commercial wine production
encouraged to enjoy a great local wine with
is concentrated around Dodoma at about
giant Distell group; and producers Cetawico
Distell has played a major role in advis-
1,100 metres above sea level. Here, produc-
Cantina Sociale di Dodoma and Tanganyika
ing farmers on viticultural practices and is
ers have found an agreeable climate and a
Vineyards Co (Tavico).
confident that grape growing will become
soil that is perfect for growing grapes.
All three rely, directly or indirectly, on a
a meaningful contributor to Tanzania’s agri-
Grapes need a particular climate in which
network of small farmers for their grapes.
cultural sector. The company has set itself
to thrive: not too hot – except, perhaps, when
And the grape they all choose to grow is
the task of doubling production of locally
ripening – but not too cold either, because a
the makutupora variety, which is best suited
produced grapes, which are hand-farmed.
36
With few tractors, even soil prepara-
wico’s output is consumed within
tion is done manually. Owing to the
Tanzania, but some wine is exported
lack of irrigation, almost all vineyards
to markets across East Africa. Ceta-
consist of dry land and virtually no
wico produces Overmeer wine (a
chemicals are used.
bag-in-a-box brand), which is then packaged by TDL; and it also has a
Full-bodied
variety of dry whites and reds from
Founded in 2002, Italian-owned
chenin blanc, shiraz and cabernet
Cetawico sells tempting crispy whites,
sauvignon grapes.
full-bodied reds and a rosé, all from cooperatively grown grapes. Unlike
a mix of makutupora (of course),
More needs to be done, however, to market and promote Tanzanian vintages. Martha sets out her ambitions: “Internationally, Tanzanian wines can be positioned as part of the welcoming heritage – ‘karibu’ – that the country is known for. Many international tourists look for something unique about the places they visit, which helps make the trip special in
TDL, Cetawico is not part of a major
the first place. Providing something as
multinational drinks business. On the
part of the Tanzania experience, such
contrary, its presence in Tanzania is
as a great wine made from the unique
partly luck and partly circumstance.
makutupora grape, makes for a safari
Cetawico is associated with the
that’s all the more special.”
Fondazione San Zeno, a Verona-
Clearly, Tanzania is now producing
based humanitarian organisation. Its
some very drinkable wines. So let’s
roots in Tanzania can be traced to the
say ‘cheers’ to the makutupora grape
pioneering work of an Italian mission-
and to more great local vintages.
ary who experimented with planting vines and growing grapes during his time in Tanzania. Seeing the potential and building on the missionary’s early success, the Fondazione San Zeno, with local partners, then financed the commercial production of wine. The first wine was produced in 2005. Output has continued to grow and has now reached over 2 million litres a year. Cetawico’s assistant managing director, Gabriella Balsamo, says: “We involve around 450 farmers in the local Dodoma region. We are working with the Tanzanian government as well as supporting a national project called Kilimo Kwanza, which
PIONEERS OF WINE Wine production in Tanzania is not new. In 1961, just after independence, former President Julius Nyerere encouraged the introduction of vines and asked foreign missionaries to provide their expertise. By 1963 inmates at Isanga prison had planted four acres of grapes and these plantings were later extended. The prison later installed a winery plant and, for some time, was the region’s sole buyer of grapes for processing.
supports young farmers.” ■
For the time being, most of Ceta-
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37
MREMBO SPA
holistic BY KATE WINGAR
or high tech? The spa that is bringing natural back
F
or decades, the beauty
more popular than ever. But how do
Swahili), a small spa providing all-
industry has been commit-
old medicine and holistic healing
natural beauty treatments from the
ted to using the most progres-
methods compare with the latest
Zanzibar Archipelago. Now 10 years
sive therapies and devising new
technology and advancements in
old, the business started in a simple
innovations and techniques.
medical knowledge?
way with experimental concoctions
From chemical peels and dermal
at the back of an old antique store.
the modern world has become
Conventional
has combined knowledge gained
obsessed with the use of danger-
Bridging the gap between conven-
through years of studying Zanzi-
ous and invasive procedures.
tional beauty methods and invasive
bar’s herbs with the advice of local
procedures has always been tricky,
Zanzibari and Pemban women.
beauty practices have been making
but Mrembo Spa in Zanzibar has
Many of the ingredients in the spa’s
a comeback. Instead of asking for
managed to convince its many
natural products date back hundreds
the latest celebrity fad treatment, we
clients that ancient remedies are
of years and are still used by elderly
are returning to our roots to find the
healthier and more effective than
Swahili women today. By blending
healthiest, safest and most natural
going under the knife.
therapeutic and relaxation elements
fillers to laser skin and botox,
Recently, however, traditional
way to stay looking young. It seems
Located in the heart of Stone
the trusted ancient treatments
Town is Mrembo (meaning ‘woman
have stood the test of time and are
who likes to pamper herself’ in
38
In creating its products, the spa
MREMBO SPA
Beautifully natural to bring out your natural beauty
with fresh flowers, herbs and spices from the spa’s own plantation and neighbouring businesses, Mrembo
has developed a comprehensive portfolio of treatments for all skin types. From lemongrass and seaweed scrubs to hot sand massages and spinal revitalisation, Mrembo is devoted to tradition, perfecting the ancient beauty practices that have had a lasting influence. The spa’s Lime and Coconut Parcel daily moisturiser is said to uncover the true brilliance of your complexion and to last longer than chemical face peels, while the Vanilla and Aloe Vera Scrub banishes fine lines and deep wrinkles, with similarly refreshing results to dermal facial fillers. Mrembo’s products have shown that ancient holistic recipes can take care of your beauty regime from top to toe and can be just as effective as cosmetic surgery. Using time-honoured recipes passed down through generations of Zanzibari women, plus natural ingredients such as coconut, rosewater, lime and aloe vera, Mrembo Spa and its eight employees have provided modern society with alternative healthy beauty treatments to make us look and feel good without having to use needles and abrasive methods.
SINGO SCRUB
KIDONGE SCRUB
The Singo, one of the spa’s signature treatments, is traditionally used daily for two weeks by Swahili bridesto-be prior to their wedding day. The compilation of ylang ylang, jasmine and rose petals with indigenous herbs such as mpatchori (a sweet smelling herb from Unguja) and mpomia (geranium) creates a smoothing and moisturising effect. Sandalwood, sweet basil, clove and rice powder are added as an exfoliator and the result is fresh and youthful-looking skin.
Mrembro is known for its Kidonge clove and spice scrub. Originally used on men in Pemba Island, the treatment is combined with an aromatherapy massage to invigorate and boost energy levels. After being steamed in warm coconut oil, the scrub creates a wonderful heat sensation on the skin and evolves into a creamy moisturiser. Mrembo Spa products can be bought from the Mrembo Spa shop. www.mrembospa.com
auricair.com
39
EAT: SIX DEGREES SOUTH GRILL AND WINE BAR
40
EAT: SIX DEGREES SOUTH
We love the seafood on this seashore BY SAM GIMSON
L
iving up to its moniker of The Spice
After the meal we met the manager
Island, Zanzibar has a reputation for
who showed us around and we sat and
offering fresh, flavoursome foods – as
talked with him late into the evening. He
epitomised by the Six Degrees South
is knowledgeable about art and a great
Grill and Wine Bar. I was lucky enough
conversationalist.
to dine there recently, and if I were to
I returned the following morning and
return to the island for one night only,
enjoyed a breakfast of pancakes with bacon
Six Degrees would be my first choice.
and drizzled honey – a most indulgent start
This restaurant had been recommended to me and I wanted to review it. My friend
to the day. Strangely enough, the three ingredients complemented one another
and I were seated with a view along the length of the restaurant, which looks onto the starlit ocean. Other diners were already enjoyFOOD WITH A VIEW
Tempting tastes in an unrivalled setting
ing the well-presented food on a varied and intriguing
My friend and I were seated with a view along the length of the restaurant, which looks onto the starlit ocean
menu that included coconut fish curry, sweet and spicy chicken wings and Philadelphia po’ boy.
well. The pancakes were thick and velvety,
How could I not be hungry?
the bacon smoked and crispy.
Calamari
its spectacularly bright morning light and
The food soon arrived. We had decided to
and relaxed that I could happily have sat for
share a small selection of dishes. First up
hours. The room had comfortable sofas and
was pickled calamari and octopus, a cold
a bar where you could chat or check your
dish bathed in a rich vinaigrette. Having
emails. With food, service and ambience
previously eaten overcooked and unten-
all of the same high standard, Six Degrees
derised tentacles in Zanzibar, it was pure
really is a remarkable restaurant – one that
pleasure to be served well cooked seafood.
you’ll want to return to.
The atmosphere in the front room, with its panorama of blue water, was so pleasant
The Mediterranean crostini with a hint of chilli and sweet vegetables were satisfying and healthy, adding further crunch to the lightly toasted ciabatta bread. The Greek salad was laid out so that each vegetable could be tasted separately, with cherry tomatoes, green peppers and black olives, all grown locally.
www.6degreessouth.co.tz
auricair.com
41
DRIVE: LAND ROVER DISCOVERY SPORT
More bushbuck
than buffalo… BY GARY GIMSON
W
hen I bought my first
slightly more svelte Freelander range
model is also on its way later this year
bullbar-fronted Land
– although the car also borrows lines
with mightily impressive CO2 figures
Rover Discovery back in the early
and themes from other current Land
of 119 g/km – admittedly not of any
1990s I was thrilled to drive such a
Rover models.
real interest to us in East Africa, but
big and indestructible machine, to
To start with, Land Rover is offering
have seven seats in a 5+2 configu-
a range of four-cylinder turbocharged
ration and to enjoy a driving posi-
petrol and turbo-diesel engines
tion that seemed, at the time, to
with stop/start technology. Petrol
Rover dealer told ‘Explorer’: “We
make me master of all I surveyed.
derivatives use an all-alloy Si4 2.0
will have both the petrol and diesel
But when I look back, here was a
litre engine with 240 PS. The 2.2 litre
engines available for our market.
lumpy 4x4 with all the subtlety of the
turbo-diesel is available in either 150
Berlin Wall, producing a weedy 105
PS TD4 or 190 PS SD4 specification,
PS (can you believe?) from a 2.5 litre
with both the TD4 and SD4 produc-
diesel engine that Massey Ferguson
ing the same 420 Nm of torque.
might have rejected as being too noisy. And with all the cornering ability of the late Luciano Pavarotti after a particularly agreeable lunch. It’s amazing how technology
Acceleration
vital for sales in carbon emission obsessed European markets. An East Africa-based Jaguar Land
Being a Land Rover, superb offroad performance comes as standard; in fact, it is pretty much written into the marque’s DNA
The punchy 2.2 SD4 model comes with a nine-speed automatic or six-
moves on so quickly but impercep-
speed manual gearbox and offers a
We will have at least nine variants to
tibly, and how SUVs can seemingly
meaty 190 PS translating into a 0 to
give the potential customer a choice
be transformed in a generation from
100 kph acceleration time of about
between the two different engines
asthmatic tanks into sprightly, light-
8.5 seconds – not bad for a less-than-
and spec levels.”
on-their feet performers.
aerodynamic 4x4. Using the vehicle’s
The dealer added: “We see the
eco mode fuel-saving option,
Disco Sport as a compact Discov-
Rover Discovery Sport (DS). Gone is
owners can expect a 15 per cent
ery, much the same as the hugely
the brutal profile of bygone Discos to
improvement on the old Freelander’s
successful Range Rover Sport (RRS) (is
be replaced by something that looks
consumption figures.
So please welcome the new Land
remarkably like an older brother to the manufacturer’s now defunct and
42
Land Rover says a smaller and more fuel-efficient eD4 turbo-diesel
CHOICE
Different engines and spec levels to suit everyone
to the Range Rover). The RRS created a huge following for those who wanted the Range Rover experience,
DRIVE: LAND ROVER DISCOVERY SPORT
but in a more compact package.” For those who love to be
to enhance off-road agility. All very well, but when can we
bombarded with information, there’s
expect to see the new DS in East
an all-new eight-inch touch screen
Africa? It’s understood that the first
infotainment system with intuitive
consignment of DS models will arrive
controls and heightened connectivity
in Tanzania between mid April and
plus a Head Up Display that projects
mid May and at roughly the same time
key driving data onto the windscreen.
in neighbouring Kenya and Uganda.
Technology
out there which might be seen as
Being a Land Rover, superb off-road
down and actually compare specs,
performance comes as standard; in
versatility, comfort, market position-
fact, it is pretty much written into
ing and all the virtues a Land Rover
the marque’s DNA. The new model
undoubtedly has to offer, then this
has a variety of all-terrain technol-
car has few if any real direct competi-
ogy including Terrain Response® and
tors in what’s described as the
Wade Sensing™ (this Disco can travel
premium compact SUV market.
At first sight, there are several 4x4s
through water up to 600 mm deep
rivals to the DS; but when you sit INTERIOR DESIGN Sleek interiors with high-tech features
Yet it remains to be seen, however,
without a snorkel) as well as Active
whether the new DS is really man
Driveline, which switches seamlessly
enough for all that East Africa can
between two- and four-wheel drive.
throw at. Maybe, when the truth is
The DS also comes with the following
told, this new Land Rover is a mere
features, many of which are unique
soft-roader for townies (and there is
to Land Rover: Hill Descent Control®,
nothing wrong with that) rather than
Gradient Release Control®, Roll
a hairy-chested, export strength,
Stability Control, Dynamic Stability
go-anywhere SUV designed for those
Control, Electronic Traction Control
weekends in the bush that its sister
and Engine Drag Torque Control.
Discovery and Range Rover models
There’s also an all-new multi-link axle
handle so well. ■
auricair.com
43
AURIC AIR ROUTE MAP
Entebbe
Buboka
Rubondo
Masai Mara
Mwanza
Serengeti
Arusha Lake Manyara
Kahama
Kigoma
Mahale
Tabora
TA N Z A N I A
Zanzibar
Dodoma
Mpanda
Pemba
Tanga
Morogoro
Katavi
DAR ES SALAAM
Ruaha Iringa Sumbawanga
Mafia
N
Songea
auricair.com
45
TRAVEL INFORMATION
TRAVEL INFORMATION
VISA INFORMATION Most people will require a visa to enter Tanzania. Usually a tourist visa is issued, unless you are travelling on business, in which case you require a different visa. Any traveller into Tanzania who is from a non-Commonwealth country – unless there is an agreement between the traveller’s country and Tanzania, in which case the visa is waived – will require a valid visa to gain entry. Citizens from the following Commonwealth countries will, however, require a visa to enter Tanzania: United Kingdom, Canada, Nigeria, India, Pakistan, New Zealand and Australia. Tanzania visas can be obtained from the following: › Entry points into the United Republic of
Tanzania such as Dar es Salaam International Airport and Zanzibar Airport.
› The office of the Director of Immigration
Services, Dar es Salaam, and the office of the Principal Immigration Officer, Zanzibar.
› Tanzania High Commissions or embassies
abroad.
KENYAN VISAS All visitors entering Kenya – except those who are citizens of Ethiopia, San Marino, Turkey and Uruguay – require a visa. These cost US$ 50 for a single entry visa. You can also purchase a multiple entry visa for US$ 100. Visa application forms can be completed online ahead of your travels, or on arrival in Kenya.
Quality Electrical Products Wide range of domestic, industrial, mining, distribution power lines and home appliances
+255 765 11 8888 or 715 30 3793 sales@tropicalint.com www.tropicalint.com
46
TRAVEL INFORMATION
BAGGAGE Every passenger travelling with Auric Air gets a free baggage allowance as follows: › Adults and children: Checked
baggage of 15 kg, hand baggage of 5 kg
› Infants: Combined checked
CHILDREN Children are welcome on board Auric Air after their 11th birthday. Unfortunately, before this age, we cannot accept unaccompanied minors. Infants under the age of two weeks will also not be accepted for travel.
baggage and hand baggage of 3 kg.
Excess baggage will be charged per kilogram. Owing to the size and weight restrictions of the aircraft, we cannot guarantee to transport excess baggage on the same flight. Because of the nature of the aircraft, your baggage must consist of small, soft bags. Metal suitcases with sharp, pointed edges are prohibited.
AURIC AIR CONTACT DETAILS
ANIMALS Animals and pets may travel on our aircraft, subject to criteria such as size and quantity. For more information, please contact our call centre on +255 783 233334. Auric Air’s Call Centre is open 09:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 17:00 daily.
TRAVEL TIPS To ensure you have the smoothest possible flight, here are some of our top tips for a top trip. Make sure you arrive in good time, as the check-in desks close 20 minutes before the scheduled departure time. Passengers arriving after this time may not be accepted for travel, and liable for a no-show fee. Auric Air does not provide alcohol on its aircraft, and passengers are not allowed to bring their own – or any food items – on board. Please bear this in mind before boarding. All flights are also non-smoking. Electronic equipment is allowed on board, including mobile telephones, laptops, radios, CD players and handheld games consoles, however for safety reasons, the use of these items may be limited, or forbidden during flying.
MWANZA OFFICE
Auric Air Services Ltd PO Box 336, Mwanza Cell: +255 783 233 334; 255 736 200 849 Email: reservations@auricair.com; auric@auricair.com
DAR ES SALAAM OFFICE
Auric Air Services Ltd T-14, First Floor, Haidery Plaza Upanga/Kisutu Street, Dar es Salaam Tel: (Dar Airport) +255 (0)688 937 165 Tel: (Town Office) +255 (0)688 937 166 Email: auric@auricair.com
GET CONNECTED You can keep in contact with Auric across social media at: www.facebook.com/auricair www.instagram.com/auricair www.twitter.com/auricair
ARUSHA OFFICE
Auric Air Services Ltd TFA Arusha Shopping Centre (Nakumatt) Opp. Kilombero Market Office No 19, West Wing, Arusha Cell: +255 (0)688 723 274 Email: arusha@auricair.com
MORE INFORMATION Head to www.auricair.com/ General/terms for more information on travelling with Auric Air. ■
auricair.com
47
PILOT’S EYE VIEW MOUNTAIN OF LIGHT Snow-capped Kili surrounded by an early morning mist
48