Explorer ISSUE 3
Inflight magazine I www.auricair.com
Mafia Island MARINE PARK PARADISE
Serengeti's Small Five Size isn't everything
A Brush with Africa
The accidental artist
CONTENTS
14
11
Explorer Inflight magazine
20
28
FEATURES
REGULARS
8
3
Serengeti’s Small Five
Size isn’t everything
11
Mafia Island
The isle less travelled…
14 A brush with Africa
The accidental artist
16 Solar Power
Is solar energy a dim idea?
18 Judo in Tanzania
Ki o tsuke!
20 Rubondo Island
Magical green island is a ‘must visit’
22 Tilapia
INSIDE:
Great island, great lake, great eating and more
5 Foreword
From Deepesh Gupta
7
Explorer News
26 STAY: African Tulip Hotel 28 DRIVE: Hyundai Tucson 30 EAT: La Véranda 31 Travel information 32 Pilot’s eye view 33 Auric Air route map
Big idea from a small pond
24 Five reasons to visit Zanzibar
Beaches and spice and all things nice…
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INSIDE
Explorer Inflight magazine
Auric Air Services Ltd Mwanza Office PO Box 336, Mwanza Cell: +255 783 233 334; 255 736 200 849 Email: reservations@auricair.com Website: auric@auricair.com Explorer is published on behalf of Auric Air Services by: Land & Marine Publications Ltd
1 Kings Court, Newcomen Way Severalls Business Park, Colchester Essex CO4 9RA, United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com No part of the contents of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishers. The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in accordance with existing legislation. All advertisements and non-commissioned text are taken in good faith. The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions. Printed by Jamana Printers Ltd. ©2016 Land & Marine Publications Ltd.
Great island, great lake, great eating and more BY GARY GIMSON, PUBLISHER
W
elcome to the latest issue of ‘Explorer’, the in-flight magazine of Auric Air. In this issue, for our cover story, we travel to the delightfully unspoilt island of Mafia (to which Auric Air operates three times weekly) and find out what’s to see and do. We also find reasons to visit its larger sister, Zanzibar (or, more strictly speaking, Unguja). Auric Air is renowned for flying its guests to some of Tanzania’s best game-rich wildlife reserves. So, as a change, we thought we would take a look at the Serengeti’s ‘small five’ – something to look for once you have ticked off the better-known big quintet. We visit the water wonderland of Rubondo Island National Park in the south-west corner of Lake Victoria (a destination served three times a day by Auric Air). Home to the rare and semi-aquatic sitatunga antelope, the national park also contains a plentiful and tasty supply of tilapia fish – supplying the diet of the frisky yellow-spotted otters. And while on the subject of tilapia, ‘Explorer’ investigates the farming of this popular fish.
Cover
Mafia Island
IN THIS ISSUE:
The small five
Size isn't everything in the Serengeti
Meanwhile, we highlight the merits of solar power and its apparent advantages for East Africa. And for those interested in self-defence, we look at the growing popularity of judo – Japan’s gift to the world of sport. We stay at the highly recommended African Tulip in Arusha. And if you like tapas, then we dine out at La Véranda in Dar. The subject of our car review is the fabulous new Hyundai Tuscan – small sibling to the marque’s Santa Fe – providing off-road capability at an affordable price.
Solar power
Is solar energy a dim idea?
We hope you enjoy reading ‘Explorer’. Please write to me if you have any comments about the magazine. Gary Gimson Publisher, Land & Marine Publications Ltd
Zanzibar
Beaches and spice and all things nice…
Email: publishing@landmarine.com ■
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FOREWORD
Welcome to the third issue of Explorer BY DEEPESH GUPTA, COMMERCIAL MANAGER, AURIC AIR
I
t gives me great pleasure to welcome passengers to the third issue of our regular in-flight magazine, ‘Explorer’. I hope that you find our magazine of interest and that it makes your flight with Auric Air more enjoyable.
In addition, earlier this year we were honoured to receive the award for Tanzania’s Leading Domestic Safari Carrier at the prestigious World Travel Awards. This wouldn’t be possible without the excellent Auric Air team and each and every one of our passengers.
Auric Air continues to develop as an airline as we buy additional aircraft, launch new routes and increase the frequencies of others.
I hope you enjoy your flight with Auric Air. If you have any comments to make about our in-flight magazine or our service, please write to me at the email address right.
In fact, we now fly to over 30 destinations across Tanzania and beyond, utilising our fleet of 12 Cessna Grand Caravans.
Email: dgupta@auricair.com ■
Deepesh Gupta Commercial Manager Auric Air Services Ltd
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AURIC AIR NEWS
News AURIC AIR WIN AT WORLD TRAVEL AWARDS
Tanzania's Leading Domestic Safari Carrier
WATCH VIDEO
Auric Air was crowned Tanzania’s Leading Domestic Safari Carrier at the World Travel Awards Africa & Indian Ocean Gala Ceremony in Zanzibar in April, beating off stiff competition from four other airlines. Accepting the award, Deepesh Gupta, the airline’s business development manager, said: “We want to be the best safari and corporate airline and this is a huge stand-up of our approach to transform our product and services. I’d like to thank every member of the Auric Air team and each of our passengers. You have had a huge part to play in winning this award.” The World Travel Awards are annual ceremonies held to celebrate the best in travel and tourism across the world.
AURIC AIR CONTACT DETAILS
GET CONNECTED
MWANZA OFFICE
You can keep in contact with Auric Air online at:
Auric Air Services Ltd PO Box 336, Mwanza Cell: +255 783 233 334; 255 736 200 849 Email: reservations@auricair.com; auric@auricair.com
DAR ES SALAAM OFFICE
Auric Air Services Ltd Office 17, 2nd Floor, Viva Towers 294/295 Ali Hassan Mwinyi Road, Dar es Salaam Tel: (Dar Airport) +255 (0)688 937 165 Tel: (Town Office) +255 (0)688 937 166 Cell: +255 (0)784 749 769 Email: auric@auricair.com
www.auricair.com www.facebook.com/auricair www.instagram.com/auricair www.twitter.com/auricair
ARUSHA OFFICE
Auric Air Services Ltd TFA Arusha Shopping Centre (Nakumatt) Opposite Kilombero Market Office No 19, West Wing, Arusha Cell: +255 (0)688 723 274 Email: arusha@auricair.com
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SERENGETI'S SMALL FIVE
Serengeti’s Small Five
Size isn’t everything S
potting the Big Five on a game drive is a thrill for
Antlion Not quite as majestic or pretty as its larger namesake, the antlion is a small brown-grey insect that inhabits the Serengeti. The name is said to refer to the antlion’s predatory nature, as it preys on ants. It is also known as the doodlebug because of the patterns it makes in the sand while looking for a suitable place to dig a pit. Before they reach adulthood, the antlion larvae are small creatures with oversized
Elephant shrew
any safari enthusiast and
Serengeti National Park is the perfect place to see all five – elephant, rhino, leopard, lion and buffalo. In addition, though, the national park is home to a lesser-known heads. When mature, they resem-
collection: the Small Five. They may be harder to spot than their larger namesakes, but it’s definitely worth taking a closer look at these small (and in some cases tiny) inhabitants of the Serengeti.
The elephant shrew and the African elephant have little in common except, perhaps their distinguishing facial feature. Elephants have a trunk and the elephant shrew has a long nose, which is presumably where it got its name. Interestingly, though, research has shown that elephant shrews are actually more closely related to elephants than ordinary shrews, despite seeming to have little in common. These tiny inhabitants of the Serengeti are only about 150 mm long, but can run at speeds of up to 29 km per hour, making them one of the fastest small mammals on the planet. Elephant shrews tend to hide in undergrowth, making them hard to spot, but all the more rewarding when you find one. They eat mainly insects, spiders and worms, using their noses to find food in their local surroundings.
8
ble dragonflies. Adult antlions tend to be active in the evenings, while the younger ones are easier to spot during the day. The type of antlions found in the Serengeti (genus Palpares) are larger than their American counterparts, with the adult wingspan reaching up to 16 cm. Antlion larvae use their pits to catch prey by creating a sloped pit in which passing creatures will fall when the sand is disturbed. They fall into the pit and are soon devoured by the antlions.
They may be harder to spot than their larger namesakes, but it’s definitely worth taking a closer look Leopard tortoise
Buffalo weaver The last of our Small Five is, in fact, a bird – the buffalo weaver. There are two main types, the white-headed and the red-billed, both of which can be seen in the Serengeti. The whiteheaded buffalo weaver appears to be
Rhinoceros beetle The rhinoceros beetle shares one obvi-
The largest of our Small Five is the
ous feature with its namesake: a horn.
leopard tortoise, so-called because
The male rhino beetle has a horn on
of the leopard-like spots on its shell.
its head that it uses to fight off other
Leopard turtles are the world’s fourth-
males and also for digging. There are
largest species of tortoise, measuring
various types of rhinoceros (or horned)
up to 460 mm in length and weigh-
beetle, including the Hercules and
ing about 18 kg. There have been
Atlas. Both male and female rhino
reports of leopard tortoises measuring
beetles are protected by tough body
as much as 700 mm in length. They
armour to deter predators as well as
can live up to 100 years and they
having thick wings that allow them to
are commonly found in eastern and
fly with relative ease.
southern Africa, including Serengeti National Park. Leopard tortoises are herbivorous,
selves from predators.
Their domed shells offer protection
Rhino beetles have
from predators and environmental
become popular as pets
threats. These tortoises can move
because they are
relatively quickly on their trunk-like
small and easy
legs and even navigate tricky terrain as
to care for.
to survive well in the wild, with large populations reported across eastern and southern Africa.
It also has an orange-red rump and a conical black beak. These birds follow buffalo around, picking up the insects disturbed by them, which is presumably where the bird’s name comes from. Buffalo weavers forage for insects, fruit and seeds in the undergrowth of
their home among fallen leaves
fallen fruit from the trees high above.
are also bred in captivity, they tend
white face and body and black wings.
on fruit, nectar and sap. They make and in logs to protect them-
underwater. While leopard tortoises
easier to spot because of its striking
The beetles are herbivorous, living
feeding on grass and scrub as well as
well as climbing vertically and moving
more common, however, and much
the Serengeti, usually in small groups with other weavers or starlings. Male and female buffalo weavers build nests together when mating by pushing materials together to form a large oval nest where the chicks are born. Another giveaway characteristic of the buffalo weaver is its parrot-like call, often loud and repetitive. ■
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MAFIA ISLAND
Mafia Island
The isle less travelled…
I
n the Zanzibar archipelago, off the coast of Tanzania, lies Mafia Island. Before images of gun-toting,
cigar-smoking gangsters come to mind, Mafia Island has nothing to do with the actual Mafia; its name is said to be derived from either a Swahili phrase meaning ‘healthy dwelling place’ or the Arabic word for ‘archipelago’. Mafia is an island idyll with one of the best marine parks in Africa.
Get away from it all with a trip to Mafia Island
›
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MAFIA ISLAND
Just a boat or plane ride away from mainland Tanzania, the island is set in its own archipelago of islands, some of which are inhabited and some not. Mafia is the biggest of these islands, 49 km long and 17 km wide. It is known for its outstanding marine life, while its landward features are equally exotic, with tropical mango and cashew trees as well as monkeys, lemurs, dwarf hippos and wild pigs. Unlike neighbouring Zanzibar – and, to an extent, Pemba Island –Mafia sees a relatively low number of tourists. Many people, local residents and visitors alike, see this as a positive thing. The island is still rather unknown, yet offers so much to those who do visit. The low number of tourists ensures that Mafia remains as ISLAND LIFE
From baby turtles to bright blue waters to endless beaches
unchanged as possible, offering a true piece of paradise for visitors and leaving residents happy that their island is not being spoilt by tourism.
Marine park Mafia Island Marine Park is Tanzania’s first marine park, embracing the Rufiji River Delta and Mafia Channel and covering a total area of about 1,500 sq km. The park’s marine ecosystem is exceptional, with prime examples of estuarine, mangrove and coral reef. The park is home to two endangered species: the dugong and the sea turtle. Whale sharks are common in the waters off Kilindoni, in the west of
KILINDONI The island capital, Kilindoni, is more bustling than the laid-back beach resorts. A key feature of the town is the market, where local people sell their produce, including fresh fish, spices and vegetables. The island’s airstrip and harbour are located at Kilindoni as well as a handful of small hotels and cafés.
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the island between October and March,
WHERE TO STAY
and visitors can experience swimming with these, the world’s largest fish, or just observe them from a boat. Visitors will find an abundance of fish, including blue, black and striped marlin, barracuda, red snapper and kingfish.
Diving The large reef system of the marine park has made it a paradise for diving and snorkelling enthusiasts. The Chole Bay area takes centre stage, with over 50 sq km of marine life. Thanks to its location, Chole
Kinasi Lodge
Chole Mjini Lodge
Located at Chole Bay in the south of the island, Kinasi Lodge is the place to stay for those looking to explore the marine park. It has 14 en-suite rooms and a range of amenities and facilities including spa services, a pool, child care services and a business centre. Each room is distinctive, offering either beautiful sea views or a view over the lush gardens.
Over on Chole Island is the renowned Chole Mjini Lodge, built by Anne and Jean de Villiers and consisting of seven tree houses. Guests can relax in rustic luxury and experience barefoot bliss. Suitable for divers and non-divers alike, it offers plenty of activities and excursions. Hosts Anne and Jean are on hand to ensure an unforgettable time for guests.
Lua Cheia
Pole Pole
In the north of the island is Lua Cheia, an eco-friendly beach camp on a large stretch of private beach. Its six large tents can accommodate up to 12 people, adding to the intimate feel of the camp. A 3 km stretch of beautiful beach lies in front of the camp, with crystal-clear waters suitable for swimming all year round.
Often considered one of the world’s most exclusive eco-resorts, Pole Pole has seven bungalows in a serene environment. The resort prides itself on its low environmental impact, without compromising on luxury, comfort and style. An excellent choice for those looking to explore the nearby marine life.
Bay avoids the annual monsoon winds, so diving can take place all year round, in contrast with equivalent destinations in Kenya and Zanzibar. The shallow waters allow beginners to practise diving or snorkelling before heading out further into the deeper waters, where octopus, dolphin, shark and other species can be found.
Island activities If you don’t like getting your feet wet, Mafia Island also caters for those who prefer to stay put. The island is great for walking or cycling or for ‘road safaris’ to other parts of the island. Many of the island’s lodges and camps offer day trips in the local area, including nearby villages, with opportunities to view the magnificent bird and animal life. Excursions to other islands in the archipelago are worthwhile, too, with Chole Island a popular choice. Visitors can enjoy a secluded picnic or barbecue at various places on Mafia and the surrounding islands, including Mange Island, a pristine sandbank surrounded by wonderful coral reefs.
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A BRUSH WITH AFRICA
Wildlife painter discovered a new style when he spilt his tea
artist The accidental
BY KIRSTEN ALEXANDER
Tanzanian-born artist Simon Stevenson is known for his beautiful depiction of some of Africa’s most iconic creatures, from magnificent elephants to curious gorillas to sleek cheetahs. Simon spoke to ‘Explorer’ about growing up on the slopes of Kilimanjaro, teaching himself to draw and evolving as an artist.
B
orn near Moshi, on
he had never formally trained as an
that ‘accident’ I experimented with
the slopes of Mount
artist. “I am totally self-taught,” says
tea mixed with ochre and charcoal.
Kilimanjaro, Simon
Simon. “In 2000 I decided to take a
The colour of the stain on the paper,
Stevenson had an idyllic child-
sabbatical and bought a book on
mixed with ochre, was to me the
hood, waking up to views of the
how to paint. That was the start of a
colour of Africa.”
mountain each morning.
new career. I am still learning.”
His interest in the landscape and
Recently, however, Simon began
Stylistically, Simon began using
to experiment with style and
wildlife of Africa began as a child.
a combination of tea and dry ochre
introduced the medium of chalk and
“From the age of four I would look
to evoke the colours of Africa in his
charcoal – a contrast to his earlier
beyond the boundaries of the
work. He found that a wide range of
garden at the bush animals from a
warm hues could be achieved using
large mango tree,” he says. “Here, at
the two materials, creating depth
the age of six, I spotted my first leop-
and nostalgia. This unusual combina-
ard, which had come to drink at the
tion has proved highly successful for
river boundary. Little did I know at
Simon, leading to some outstand-
that stage that I was actually sitting
ing works of art. He first uses tea
in its larder.”
to ‘wash’ the canvas and build a
Simon began exploring the
background, then layers on ochre
national reserves close to his home
paste to add detail and create the
in Tanzania and these subjects later
desired effect.
became the basis of his pictures. He moved to England in 1979 but
This unusual method came about completely by accident, says Simon.
it wasn’t until many years later that
“Using tea as a medium was the
his childhood nostalgia began to
result of an overbalanced mug of tea
manifest itself on paper – although
that spilt on my first picture. From
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DRAGON'S TAIL
Simon perfecting one of his chalk and charcoal works
works, but dealing with the same subject, the African landscape and its wildlife. In a similar way to his
tea-and-ochre work, the chalk and
Simon’s work is so popular
charcoal technique was not exactly
that many lodges across Tanzania
planned, says Simon.
and even in Rwanda have begun displaying his finished pieces. They
Chalk and charcoal
include Sanctuary Saadani Safari
“The development in 2012 of my chalk
in Tanzania, and Sabyinyo Silverback
and charcoal images came from my
Lodge in Rwanda.
impatience one day whilst waiting for
AFRICA
The main influence for Simon's works of art
Lodge and Sanctuary Swala Lodge www.abrushwithafrica.com ■
Even if you have not been
a painting to dry. I started to sketch
lucky enough
using chalk on black paper to play
to visit one of
with back light on an animal sketch
these excellent
and found that I liked the effect.”
lodges, you can
This change in technique and
always view and
materials created a whole new style
purchase examples
for Simon, enabling him to portray
of Simon’s work at his
the same animals in a different way
website, above right.
from his tea-and-ochre pictures. The result is a collection of simple but thoughtful images that capture a moment of beauty. One of his most recent chalk and charcoal images, ‘The Dragon’s Tail’, shows a cheetah looking down tenderly at a dragonfly.
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SOLAR POWER
Is solar energy
a dim idea You would think that with lots of sunshine, intermittent electrical supplies and high energy charges, East Africa would be clamouring for solar energy. But you would be wrong. So why is there a reluctance across the region to use solar energy on any meaningful scale? Gary Gimson reports.
T
here is something
excess energy into their respective
policy-makers. The only exception
of a mystery about the
national grids. At these northern lati-
is South Africa. The 96 megawatt
near-absence of solar
tudes, the pure economics of these
Jasper solar farm near Kimberley is
panels is often open to question.
Africa’s largest solar power project to
few fancy camps that trade on
But certain areas of Africa have
date. It is claimed to provide enough
their eco-credentials, a smat-
three times the sunshine of northern
power (only when the sun shines, of
tering of green-tinged consum-
Europe. In fact, parts of Tanzania
course) for some 80,000 homes.
ers and some NGO-funded
have some of the world’s highest
micro schemes, it has yet to be
levels of solar irradiance, with over
harnessed on a continent-wide
2,400 kilowatt-hours per square
basis. Instead, its use is small-
metre per year compared with
By contrast, East African govern-
scale and nearly always off-grid.
cloudy northern Europe, where 700
ments have been slow to encour-
to 800 kWh per square metre is more
age solar power and Kenya has
usual.
tentatively backed wind energy. It
power in Africa. Apart from a
By contrast, in many parts of notso-sunny northern Europe there is a proliferation of often ugly – and
16
For the time being, the African
Future needs
is argued that state-owned energy
subsidy-hungry – rooftop solar
solar energy market is consumer-led
companies tend to favour big
panels, all (in theory) feeding back
rather than being driven by national
power projects with big solutions
on polluting diesel generators. Solar panels can be expensive to install and interest rates on any loans to buy panels can be eye-wateringly high. Both can reduce any cost
‘…parts of Tanzania have over 2,400 kilowatt-hours per square metre per year’
advantages associated with ‘free’ solar energy. But the Williamson Tea scheme,
renewables adopters require back-up
and others like it, are not on-grid
by more conventional generator
projects that will benefit mwananchi.
systems: a duplication that can prove
In Tanzania, for example, only about
too costly for many.
10 per cent of the population has access to mains electricity, so finding
Renewable
a cost-effective method of providing energy to the masses is vital; and
What’s more, not everyone thinks
solar power may, indeed, provide an
that solar power – and renewable
answer.
energy in general – is such a great
Some solar developers are looking
idea. “Why is renewable energy
to set up large solar photovoltaics
such a total fail?” asks the UK-based
for a nation’s future needs. And up
(PV) projects in East Africa; but so far,
super-sceptic writer James Deling-
until now solar has been too small,
according to a recent report, it is not
pole. “Because,” he goes on “it’s so
too individual and seen as a purely
clear whether this can be a cost-
ludicrously inefficient and impossibly
consumer-driven, off-grid option.
efficient solution.
expensive that if ever we were so
It’s something more than
As in the case of wind energy, the
this, though. Solar power is also
sun doesn’t always shine and is obvi-
supported by business. Companies,
ously not available at night, so these
often in the agricultural sector, are investing in solar power for reasons
BRIGHT IDEA
Could solar energy be an option for Africa?
foolish as to try rolling it out on a scale beyond its current boutique levels, it would necessitate bankrupting the global economy.” In Africa, however, there are differ-
of self-interest and to improve conti-
ent arguments for and against. It’s
nuity of supply. For example, William-
not just about cost. It’s more about
son Tea, a family-owned business
regularity of supply; and in remote
for over 140 years, has built its own
rural areas it is also about gaining at
1 MW solar farm in Tinderet, western
least some access to electrical power.
Kenya. The company believed its
It sure beats sitting in the dark.
solar panels would cut its electricity bills while reducing its heavy reliance ■
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JUDO IN TANZANIA
! e k u s t Ki o Tanzania’s judo fans go to the mat
Everyone knows that soccer is the world’s most popular sport. But which sport is ranked number two globally? Well, in terms of the sheer number of participants, the answer is – perhaps surprisingly – judo. And one of the nations where the sport has made huge strides in recent years is Tanzania. Kate Wingar reports.
A
fter an erratic history, judo has
skill that had arguably the biggest impact.
secured its place as a major
Judoka found employment with the military
for judo in Tanzania. Since 1995
Tanzanian sport. So what has
and this, in turn, attracted many young men
we have strived to promote the sport
to the sport. As soldiers began to practise
in this country and lead the national team
judo in the army clubs, others followed and
to compete and win in international tourna-
after independence in the early 1960s, judo
the nation as a whole was eager to take up
ments. It’s through providing adequate
went from strength to strength and judoka
judo.
training environments, developing teaching
changed to make Tanzanians ‘judo mad’? As one of the first sports established
“JATA is the main organisation
(practisers of judo) began to enter interna-
The Judo Association of Tanzania (JATA)
systems and improving the quality of train-
tional tournaments. The national team won
has played a key role in the sport’s popular-
ing that we hope judo will continue to grow
medals, leading to ever more publicity and
ity, as general secretary Innocent J. Mallya
in Tanzania.”
media support.
explains:
By using local trainers and coaches, JATA has helped integrate judo
International teachers As a major sport, judo drew senior Black Belt trainers and international teachers to Tanzania. Their knowledge encouraged many to try something new, leading to an upsurge of new judoka. But it was the introduction of judo to the Tanzanian army as a self-defence
18
into schools, regional youth centres and district clubs nationwide. This has developed young
How it began The first organised venture was in 1970 when a judo club inspired by a German businessman was opened at the Kilimanjaro Hotel in Dar es Salaam. In 1980 a new club was launched in Dar’s Mnazi Mmoja by a Japanese visitor. In 1990 the nation’s first Black Belt, Dudley Mawala, opened a judo and karate club at the YMCA in Dar. Teachers from all over the world joined the club and encouraged new judokas. The Kariakoo Judo Club was founded in Zanzibar by Japanese
Hajime!
Judo is one of the world's top sports
mats) throughout the country, there is a desperate need for more permanent dojo (judo halls) and financial support. Tanzanian athletes still have a long way to go before
winning medals at international
A milestone was reached in 1995 with the setting up of the Judo Association of Tanzania. Over subsequent years, Tanzanian judoka have competed in major competitions in Africa and around the world and won several gold, silver and bronze medals.
JUDO PHRASES Atemi waza: Striking techniques
they can truly make a mark on the world of
Dan: Black Belt ranking
judo.
Goshin jutsu: Art of self-defence Hajime: Begin
athletes with a talent into national judo champions,
enthusiast Shimaoka Tsuyoshi in 1993. That same year, a silver and two bronze medals were won by Tanzanian judoka at the Eastern and Southern Judo Championship in Harare.
So what next?
Hiza: Knee Judogi: Judo practice uniform
games such as the All-Africa Games, the
Despite a lack of financial stability, one
Commonwealth Games and the Olympics.
thing is certain – interest in the sport is
At the 2014 Glasgow Commonwealth
keener than ever. As long as the passion
Ki o tsuke: Attention
Games, Tanzania had a record seven
is there, Tanzania will go on producing
Kyoshi: Instructor
athletes competing for the title of judo
talented home-grown judo athletes.
Mate: Stop, wait
champion.
So if you have a secret yearning to
It’s not all roses, however. A lack of funding for judo in Tanzania has made it hard to develop talent and organise events. With just eight active clubs and 58 tatami (judo
become a Black Belt, why not register at your local club, find your nearest dojo, pick up a judogi (uniform) and tatami, and start practising.
Judoka: One who studies judo
Nage: Throw Obi: Judo belt Sensei: Teacher, instructor Shiai: Contest Sore made: Finished, time up Tatami: Mat
■
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RUBONDO ISLAND
Magical green island is a ‘must visit’ T
ucked away in the
to explore the green island of Lake
ing area for travellers. Otherwise,
south-west corner
Victoria?
it is more or less untouched, with
of Lake Victoria, the world’s
Largely uninhabited by people –
about 80 per cent of the island
second-largest lake, Rubondo
apart from researchers, wardens and
covered in thick forest. Its shores
Island National Park is a hidden
staff and guests at the island’s only
are fringed by beaches, swamps
gem featuring dense forest,
lodge – the national park is a haven
and rocky areas, providing a diver-
wildlife, birdlife and more.
of untouched forest dominated by
sity of habitats for wildlife. While
its wildlife and birdlife. In the course
the beaches look lovely, visitors
offer daily scheduled flights from
of the year, few visitors set foot on
are not allowed to swim in the lake
Mwanza to the Rubondo airstrip.
the island compared with other
because of the danger from croco-
So why not take the opportunity
wildlife hot spots across Tanzania.
diles and hippos.
Auric Air is the only airline to
So the national park remains largely exciting for those who make the
Famous
effort to explore one of Tanzania’s
Rubondo Island is famous for
best-kept secrets.
its population of chimpanzees,
how nature intended – all the more
The island is about 28 km long
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which were introduced to the
and 10 km across at its widest
island between 1966 and 1969 by
point. It is Tanzania’s only national
Prof Bernhard Grzimek, a German
park in the 67,000 sq km lake. The
zoologist. Originally, 16 chimps
island has a small airstrip, served
were introduced to four areas of
daily by Auric Air, and a small wait-
the island and were studied over
Images courtesy of Asilia Africa
birdlife is particularly impressive, too, with hundreds of species including the African grey parrot and African fish eagle.
Beautiful The island’s only lodge is the Asilia Africa Rubondo Island Camp, which opened in June 2013. This, however, is a camp like no other, with a beautiful lakeside location, eco-friendly design and, of course, the only
In the course of the year, few visitors set foot on the island compared with other wildlife hot spots
time to see how they adapted from
accommodation for miles around.
their previous lives in captivity
There are just eight rooms on site,
to their new environment. The
helping to keep the island in as much
project was a success and numbers
of a natural state as possible. From
have increased to about 40 wild
here, guests can embark on forest
chimps across the island. The
walks, game drives, fishing (includ-
chimps are still getting used to
ing for Nile Perch) and boat trips – or
human encounters, however, so
simply enjoy the peace and quiet of
the chances of seeing them while
this intimate location.
visiting is low until they get used to human company and can be integrated better into the island’s forests. Other inhabitants of interest
AURIC AIR SCHEDULE MWANZA TO RUBONDO
are the spotted-neck otters that
Depart 08.45 and arrive 09.15
laze around the shores as well as
Depart 13.00 and arrive 13.30
bushbuck, vervet monkey, giraffe,
Depart 17.30 and arrive 18.00
hippo, elephant and more. The rare swamp-dwelling sitatunga is
RUBONDO TO MWANZA
an exciting sight on the shoreline,
Depart 10.20 and arrive 10.50
while many types of butterfly
Depart 14.15 and arrive 14.45
inhabit the forest. The island’s ■
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TILAPIA
Big idea from a small pond Thousands of farmers across Tanzania are involved in smallscale farming of tilapia fish. It benefits not only farmers but also local communities, as in the Babati project in northern Tanzania. But aquaculture has a long way to go before it can impact the national economy.
T
he aquaculture industry
in Tanzania, says the FAO, but there
is dominated by freshwater
are widespread concerns about its
fish farming. And Tanzania
potential environmental and socio-
– according to the United Nations
economic impact.
Food and Agriculture Organiza-
In recent years seaweed farming
tion (FAO) – has a vast but as yet
has become popular in some coastal
untapped potential in this sector.
areas as a source of income. Small-
Typically, it involves small-scale
scale seaweed farms –some of them
farmers working fish ponds with an
run by groups of women and young
average size of 150 square metres.
people – can be found all along the
The fish farming is integrated with
coast of Tanzania. Seaweed is now
other agricultural activities such
a serious cash crop in Tanga and
as gardening and animal and bird
Zanzibar, generating enough income
production on small pieces of land.
to cover household costs.
Tanzania is currently estimated to
The government’s Fisheries
have a total of 14,100 freshwater fish
Division has studied the viability of
ponds scattered across the mainland.
expanding aquaculture by diversify-
In addition, there is a large rainbow
ing production into other species
trout farm in Arusha.
and developing the export market.
TILAPIA
Farming fish in Tanzania
The distribution of fish ponds is determined by availability of water, suitable land for fish farming and awareness and motivation within the community of the economic potential of fish farming.
IMPORTANT FISH Tilapia is the common name for nearly 100 species of cichlid fish.
of the world – is still in the experi-
This mainly freshwater species has become the third most important fish in aquaculture after carp and salmon worldwide.
mental phase in Tanzania. It has the
Tilapia has been farmed in Tanzania since 1949.
Shrimp farming – which has proved very profitable in other parts
potential to be a profitable activity
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GRASSROOTS CHARITY The Livingstone Tanzania Trust is a grassroots charity that supports community and education-focused projects. It works with communities in the Babati District of the Manyara Region of northern Tanzania. LTT helps members of the local community by sponsoring their enterprise initiatives, providing skills training and resources. The charity works closely with schools development committees and other stakeholders to target the specific needs of each school.
Exports of seaweed are on an
LTT has fish ponds at three
upward trend, but the vast potential
locations. Two of the ponds are at
for mariculture is largely untapped,
Waangwaray Primary School, on the
according to the FAO. There has
slopes of Mount Kwaraa, and now
not yet been any move to integrate
provide the school with an income.
aquaculture with other sectors such
Sustainable fish farming on the
as the environment because the
side of a mountain? Yet, for those
industry is still at subsistence level.
with access to local springs, it has proved a viable source of income. In
Project on a mountain
fact, one young man is supporting
A project run by the Livingstone
sale of fish.
Tanzania Trust (LTT) in the Babati
himself through college from the Early experimental designs proved
District in the north of the country is
that brick and cement ponds are the
a good example of how tilapia farm-
most cost-effective because they
ing can benefit a local community.
retain the water and last longer than plastic sheeting. Once built, the ponds fill with algae, which keep the water cool, inject oxygen into the water and hide the fish from the watchful eyes of passing birds of prey. The algae are good for the fish’s diet and increase their levels of fatty acid, which is good for us when we eat them. People in the community rarely get to eat meat and this source of protein is in great demand. At the end of each year, the ponds can be emptied and the mud, fish waste, dead baby fish and rich water are used to enrich the local soil, which has proved ideal for growing tomatoes.
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23
VISIT ZANZIBAR
Five reasons to visit Zanzibar
Beaches and spice
and all things nice…
Z
anzibar has it all: an exciting
the most popular beaches on the
culture, miles of beautiful
island, and it’s not hard to see why.
beaches, fabulous food and
Although it is a popular tourist spot,
stunning scenery.
2
Superb Stone Town
For a real taste of Zanzibar’s herit-
with a number of hotels nearby, the
age, navigate your way through the
This enchanting island, known
beach remains in excellent condi-
labyrinthine streets of Stone Town,
locally as Unguja, is a favourite desti-
tion, while the calm waters of the
the old part of Zanzibar City, which
nation for many. And with Auric Air
azure-coloured ocean are irresistibly
gives an insight into the lives of local
operating regular flights to Zanzibar,
enticing. A little way down the east
people. You may well get lost (in a
why wouldn’t you want to visit East
coast is Matemwe. Until recently
Africa’s spice island?
it was virtually unpopulated, but
In case you need any more persua-
people are starting to discover the
SPICE UP YOUR LIFE
No trip to Zanzibar is complete without visiting the markets
good way) among the narrow alleys with their fascinating architecture and intricately carved doors like
sion, here are our top five reasons for
potential of this beautiful spot.
visiting Zanzibar.
Further south there is Pongwe,
1
a small fee if you prefer. There are
where the popular Pongwe Beach
lots of things to see in Stone Town,
Brilliant beaches
Hotel offers good accommodation
including the Old Fort and the Palace
next to the beach. In the south of
Museum. The Anglican Cathedral,
Zanzibar is lined with great beaches,
the island, the sleepy fishing village
on the site of the old slave market, is
and you won’t have to travel far to
of Kizimkazi is one of the best places
a poignant reminder of an impor-
find one to suit you. Starting from
if you’re looking for a secluded,
tant part of the island’s history. The
the north, there is Nungwi, one of
untouched stretch of beach.
Darajani Bazaar is a large market
24
no other. Guides are available for
5
a salad or with cassava. The Zanzibar pizza is legendary, although not your typical pizza. You will find vendors
As an East African centre of culture,
at Forodhani Gardens offering this
Zanzibar is home to one of the
delicacy, made from fried dough and
region’s largest cultural events, the
filled with basically anything you like
Zanzibar International Film Festival.
– meat, vegetables, fish etc – then
Attended by thousands of people
folded into a rectangle and served. Naturally, spices play a big part in Zanzibari cuisine. Dishes such as biryani and pilau are a ‘must try’ with authentic Indian-influenced flavours. For more formal dining, the famous Rock Restaurant has a unique location with unforgettable views.
4
Great hotels
Centre of culture
from all over the world, this hugely STONE TOWN
Get lost in the labyrinthine streets of Zanzibar's capital
popular event features screenings of the best local and international films as well as musical concerts, workshops and more. Now in its 19th year, the festival is expanding year on year to bring more and more people together to celebrate the arts. Zanzibar is also home to
From high-end splendour to backpacker retreats, Zanzibar offers an impressively wide range of accommodation. As a popular place for luxury getaways, it naturally offers a whole range of five-star beach resorts including the Zanzi Resort, The Palms and The Z Hotel. Many of
‘…the narrow alleys with their fascinating architecture and intricately carved doors like no other’
the best resorts are on the coast, but frequented by local people and tourists alike, where you can find everything from fresh meat to clothing to fruit and vegetables. Our top tip is to buy some spices while you’re here, because they are often cheaper and of better quality than elsewhere on the island.
3
there is also an impressive selection of lodgings in Stone Town. Check in at the Emerson Spice for a magical night in a boutique setting, or try the Jafferji House and Spa for elegant luxury and a fascinating heritage. For the more cash-conscious, Pumzika Beach Resort is a low-cost but highly praised lodging in Makunduchi, while the Warere Town House in
Good food
It’s no surprise that an island with such a name for spice production should have a reputation for excellent food. The combination of Zanzibar’s heritage and with the availability of excellent fresh ingredients has let to an exciting local cuisine. A firm favourite here is octopus,
Stone Town is a central hotel with budget-friendly prices. the Sauti za Busara music festival, which unfortunately did not go ahead in 2015 due to a shortage of funding. The festival is looking set to return in 2017 however, which will be welcomed by music fans across Africa and the world.
which you will find served in a curry, ■
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25
STAY: AFRICAN TULIP HOTEL
Old-world comfort in an ideal city location I t’s rare to find a boutique hotel
that offers a genuine and authentic
BY KATE WINGAR
African experience. Combine this
with passionate staff, a quiet location
a wonder they fit through the door. But at
and a relaxed atmosphere and you have
least you can’t argue about who takes up
the African Tulip hotel.
the most space or who wanders over to the
Located in the calm suburbs of Arusha, yet just five minutes’ drive from the city centre with its shops and restaurants, the African Tulip opened in 2008. Since then, the word has spread about its comfortable rooms, (extremely) large beds and courtyard pool. Despite the hype, it doesn’t disappoint.
Rustic A sense of ‘old Africa’ merged with modern personal touches makes this hotel an Arusha favourite. With its dark beams, old wood and rustic shades of orange and brown, the African Tulip is wonderfully decorated to create a home away from home. Guests can choose from a variety of Indian food in the hotel restaurant, or unwind with a drink (or two) in the Zanzibar Lounge. With just a few rooms, travellers really do gain a personal experience. Each room comes with modern en-suite facilities and a beautiful bay window, so there’s no excuse for not finishing that book that has now gathered dust. However, the most striking aspect of the rooms are the beds; for such a small hotel, they are incredibly large. It’s
26
other’s side. The African Tulip is the perfect base for those brave enough to take on the mighty
STAY: AFRICAN TULIP
A sense of ‘old Africa’ merged with modern personal touches AFRICAN TULIP
Personal touches make this boutique hotel a winner
Mount Kilimanjaro. But it’s also an excellent retreat for business guests who want to put their feet up in a cosy environment after a long day of meetings. Whether you’re by the pool or in the bar, you’re guaranteed a peaceful stay with top-notch service while surrounded by African culture.
INFORMATION For more information about African Tulip Hotel and a full list of the accommodation and tours that they offer, head to their website: www.theafricantulip.com ■
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27
DRIVE: HYUNDAI TUCSON
Classy new SUV
will broaden your horizons BY GARY GIMSON
T
here are any number of
three different diesels form part of
sub-compact SUVs on the
the line-up. The car comes in both
expensive Premium SE. So if you are already driving a
market and many of them, while
2x4 and 4x4 variants, with Hyundai
Toyota RAV4, Nissan Qashqai or
worthy, are much of a muchness.
expecting to shift many more two-
Honda CR-V then you might like
But this one really caught my eye.
wheel-drive vehicles locally than
to broaden your horizons when it
the more expensive all-wheel-drive
comes to replacing your existing
examples.
wheels. And the classy Hyundai
It went on sale in East Africa in January and it’s a welcome replacement for an existing model while neatly recycling an old name. This, then, is the Tucson – and I believe
Tucson might just catch your eye
Trim levels
the South Korean automaker Hyun-
The Tucson is offered in no less
dai has come up with an absolute
than five trim levels and even the
cracker.
entry-level cabin generally looks
Hyundai’s new Tucson super-
and feels reassuringly expensive
sedes the manufacturer’s old ix35
and is carefully screwed together.
crossover model – a nice enough
Elsewhere there is a choice of gear-
car, I suppose, but not exactly a
boxes: manual six-speed, automatic
head-turner. Like the ix35, the
six-speed and automatic seven-
Tucson is still a crossover, but it
speed dual clutch transmission
has everything the old model
(DCT). Only the six-speed auto will
seemed to lack: razor-sharp styling,
be available in East Africa.
fiendishly clever engineering and a
Twin LED lights, eight-inch
commodious 513 litres of space in
touchscreen satnav, a panoramic
the rear (and that’s before the seats
sunroof, rear-view camera, elec-
are even folded).
tronic tailgate release and heated/
Hyundai in Dar es Salaam told
ventilated seats are all options
Explorer magazine that only 2.0
on less expensive models and
litre petrol versions will be sold
progressively standard across the
locally; although in other markets
trim levels all the way up to the
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in the same way it caught mine.
DRIVE: HYUNDAI TUCSON
‘Even the entry-level cabin generally looks and feels reassuringly expensive’
CLASSY
Broaden your horizons with the Hyundai Tucson
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EAT: LA VÉRANDA
Sharing is caring at La Véranda BY KIRSTEN ALEXANDER
L
tapas and dishes with a global influence, which means you can enjoy
a Véranda is not just a
Chinese, Indian and Spanish cuisine
tapas restaurant; it is Dar es
side by side, creating a wonder-
Salaam’s first and only tapas
ful fusion of flavours. As the dishes
restaurant, serving up an exciting
are meant to be shared among a
menu of small dishes designed to
group, you can try as many as you
be enjoyed by a group of people.
like without feeling guilty. Trust me,
The idea of tapas is to share and
it would be hard to stick to just one
socialize; and where better to enjoy the experience than at La Véranda,
dish anyway. There truly is something for every
are wonderful, as are the sesame soy chicken and lamb souvlaki. The
FUSION
La Véranda brings together flavours from around the world
seafood at La Véranda also shines, with Asian flavours found in the Thai ginger fish and tempura calamari.
with its excellent location and
taste at La Véranda. Vegetarians
There are side dishes, too, and tempt-
friendly, attentive staff.
are well catered for with a selec-
ing desserts to complete your meal.
tion of tasty vegetable and cheese
To accompany the delicious tapas,
in Kivukoni, the restaurant is ideally
dishes, including falafel and mint
La Véranda offers a good selection
situated between the city centre and
yoghurt and paprika paneer. For the
of drinks, from champagne to soft
the peninsula, just a stone’s throw
more carnivorous, the beef tacos
drinks and truly excellent Long Island
Located at the Alliance Française
from the coast. The restaurant itself has a lovely open feel, with excellent views over the golf course and a restful, Mediterranean-inspired decor. The menu contains a huge variety of meat, fish and vegetarian dishes, including both traditional Spanish
iced tea.
The dishes are meant to be shared among a group, try as many as you like…
The flavoursome food, views over the golf course and homely ambience make for an excellent lunch or dinner in Dar es Salaam. The only problem is resisting the temptation to order everything…
OUR VERDICT Atmosphere: Service: Food: La Véranda Restaurant Alliance Française Kivukoni Dar es Salaam Reservations: +255 763 491 212 Email: info@veranda-tz.com
LOCATION INFORMATION La Véranda will soon be relocating to the Peninsula, so check out their website for up-to-date information www.veranda-tz.com ■
30
TRAVEL INFORMATION VISA INFORMATION Most people will require a visa to enter Tanzania. Usually a tourist visa is issued, unless you are travelling on business, in which case you require a different visa. Any traveller into Tanzania who is from a non-Commonwealth country – unless there is an agreement between the traveller’s country and Tanzania, in which case the visa is waived – will require a valid visa to gain entry. Citizens from the following Commonwealth countries will, however, require a visa to enter Tanzania: United Kingdom, Canada, Nigeria, India, Pakistan, New Zealand and Australia. Tanzania visas can be obtained from the following: › Entry points into the United Republic of Tanzania such as Dar es Salaam
TRAVEL TIPS To ensure you have the smoothest possible flight, here are some of our top tips for a top trip. Make sure you arrive in good time, as the check-in desks close 20 minutes before the scheduled departure time. Passengers arriving after this time may not be accepted for travel, and liable for a no-show fee. Auric Air does not provide alcohol on its aircraft, and passengers are not allowed to bring their own – or any food items – on board. Please bear this in mind before boarding. All flights are also non-smoking. Electronic equipment is allowed on board, including mobile telephones, laptops, radios, CD players and handheld games consoles, however for safety reasons, the use of these items may be limited, or forbidden during flying.
ANIMALS Animals and pets may travel on our aircraft, subject to criteria such as size and quantity. For more information, please contact our call centre on +255 783 233334. Auric Air’s Call Centre is open 09:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 17:00 daily.
International Airport and Zanzibar Airport.
› The office of the Director of Immigration Services, Dar es Salaam, and the
office of the Principal Immigration Officer, Zanzibar.
› Tanzania High Commissions or embassies abroad.
KENYAN VISAS All visitors entering Kenya – except those who are citizens of Ethiopia, San Marino, Turkey and Uruguay – require a visa. From September 1st 2015, all visas must be purchased online in advance of travel to Kenya from evisa.go.ke/evisa. E-visas are valid for 90 days. A single entry visa costs US$ 51, which includes a US$ 1 service charge.
BAGGAGE Every passenger travelling with Auric Air gets a free baggage allowance as follows: › Adults and children: Checked
baggage of 15 kg, hand baggage of 5 kg
› Infants: Combined checked
CHILDREN Children are welcome on board Auric Air after their 11th birthday. Unfortunately, before this age, we cannot accept unaccompanied minors. Infants under the age of two weeks will also not be accepted for travel.
baggage and hand baggage of 3 kg.
Excess baggage will be charged per kilogram. Owing to the size and weight restrictions of the aircraft, we cannot guarantee to transport excess baggage on the same flight. Because of the nature of the aircraft, your baggage must consist of small, soft bags. Metal suitcases with sharp, pointed edges are prohibited.
MORE INFORMATION Head to www.auricair.com/ General/terms for more information on travelling with Auric Air.
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PILOT’S EYE VIEW NGORONGORO WILDLIFE View down inside the Ngorongoro Caldera, Tanzania
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AURIC AIR ROUTE MAP
Scheduled Airstrips
Inducement Airstrips
Buboka Masai Mara
Rubondo
Mwanza
Serengeti
Arusha Kahama
Kigoma
Mahale
Tabora
Lake Manyara
TANZANI A
Zanzibar
Dodoma
Mpanda
Pemba
Tanga
Morogoro Katavi
DAR ES SALAAM
Ruaha
Sumbawanga
Iringa
Mafia
N
Songea
auricair.com
TANZANIA
Arusha Buboka Dar es Salaam Dodoma Iringa Kahama Katavi Kigoma Lake Manyara Mahale Morogoro Mpanda Mwanza Ruaha Rubondo Serengeti Shinyanga Songea Sumbawanga Tabora Tanga
UGANDA Entebbe
KENYA Masai Mara
SPICE ISLANDS Pemba Mafia Zanzibar
A-Z, from Arusha to Zanzibar RESERVATIONS
+255 783 233334 www.auricair.com
reservations@auricair.com