540 Inflight Magazine – Issue 31 by Land & Marine Publications Ltd.

ISSUE 31 / NOV 2018 – JAN 2019 YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

COMPETITION

WIN A NIGHT AWAY FOR TWO AT LE RUSTIQUE

THE INTERNET CHEF

SUPPER CLUB

MAMA ASHANTI SLEEP OVER

WATER LOVERS BEACH RESORT

ALSO INSIDE THIS ISSUE: ENTERTAINMENT • NEWS • GADGETS • REVIEWS & MORE

CONTENTS

contents issue 31 REGULAR FEATURES 2 In this issue 5 540 news 34 SLEEP OVER

Water Lovers Beach Resort

37 SUPPER CLUB

Mama Ashanti

38 DRIVE TIME

Toyota Corolla

COVER STORY 15 THE INTERNET CHEF

42 GADGETS

Image courtesy of Chef Raphael

43 ENTERTAINMENT

is published by Land & Marine Publications Ltd 1 Kings Court, Newcomen Way Severalls Business Park Colchester, Essex, UK, CO4 9RA Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Email: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com

Smart tech to own

Watch. Read. Listen.

48 Kids’ Corner

6 Five of the best:

on behalf of

10 Running wild

Baycourt Upper Floor, Suite 3&4, The Watermark Business Park Ndege Rd, Karen PO Box 10293-00100 Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (0)20 388 3060-2 Fax: +254 (0)20 3883063 Email: info@fly540.com www.fly540.com The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions. ©2018 Land & Marine Publications Ltd

View this issue online:

Festivals in 2019

13 Chef Raphael

Bringing families closer

16 Nanyuki

Why food lovers are headed here

19 Rock climbing

Mountain Club of Kenya recommends…

23 Matemwe, Zanzibar

First catch your octopus…

29 Tatu bike race

Pedal power is king

30 The Beacon

Connect with Fly540

www.facebook.com/fly540aviation

Masai Mara Marathon

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@fly540aviation

SPECIAL FEATURES

Advertising: Catherine O’Callaghan, Sales Manager Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Cell: +44 (0)7769 110343 (WhatsApp) Email: 540@landmarine.org

Fly540 Aviation

New retail complex in Nairobi

33 SafeBoda

Rethink your ride…

USEFUL INFORMATION 44 Fly540 Network 45 Fly540 Contacts 46 Travel Information 47 Fly540 Fleet

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IN THIS ISSUE

In this issue

Issue 31

LOOK OUT FOR 

Getting in gear for the good times Welcome to the latest issue of Fly540’s inflight magazine, 540.

Sleep Over: Water Lovers Beach Resort, Page 34 Watch. Read. Listen:

On Page 43 we review the latest blockbuster movies, ‘must read’ books and music releases Gadgets: We check out the new Apple iPhone XR and more on Page 42

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Just like that, we’re into the last quarter of the year – a time to enjoy current events in the run-up to the holiday season as well as looking ahead to that unique moment when we welcome in 2019. And we’re here to give you a helping hand. In Issue 31 we offer a run-down of the best festivals that are set to steal the show in the coming year, including Lamu Yoga Festival for those of you who want to get more active. Speaking of active, we take a look at sporting events including the results of the Tatu City Bike Race, held annually in a bid to foster the country’s already growing enthusiasm for cycling. We head to the Masai Mara for a sneak peak at what’s in store for ‘The World’s Wildest Marathon’ in November and we let you in on the top spots to go

climbing, as recommended by the Mountain Club of Kenya. As part of our regular features, we test-drive the 2019 Toyota Corolla, head to the coast for a luxurious weekend away at Water Lovers Resort on Diani Beach and have a delicious dinner at the Ghanaian-style Mama Ashanti restaurant in Nairobi. We also review some of the latest gadgets, including the Nikon Z6 and Z7 and the Apple iPhone XR. I hope you enjoy this issue. If you have any comments, please feel free to contact me. Amy Laubach Editor amylaubach@landmarine.org

FLY540 OFFERS Visit www.fly540.com and sign up to our mailing list to receive special offers and news regarding new flight routes

Issue 31

ANOTHER WTA ACCOLADE FOR FLY540

FLY540 & FLY-SAX SPONSOR ENDURANCE BIKE RACE Fly540 and sister airline Fly-SAX were the title sponsors of the 2018 Kerio Valley Enduro bike race, offering support with logistics, allowing easy travel for everyone flying in with their bikes to attend the event and offering a grand prize of two flights for the winner of the competition. Hosting the event in western Kenya was Clark Expeditions, an

AND THE WINNER IS… Congratulations to Mercy Kathomi Kariuki, who won a fabulous spa treatment at Serenity Spa in our Issue 30 competition. Well done Mercy!

organisation focusing on adventurous experiences in Uganda and Kenya. Based in Iten, the Kerio Valley Enduro is organised by Simon Blake, who coaches and manages the Kenyan Riders road cycling team. This year, 17 riders were at the start line, a good turn-out for such a new event. Day one of the two-day race took place in rough terrain on the

Iten side of the valley towards Singore Forest, ending with a nyama choma in the evening. Day two saw an early start towards Kabarnet, with an extremely tough ride across rocks, and ended with a fast-paced descent that favoured the brave. Peter Horsey won the endurance race by almost 30 seconds. Well done, Peter!

COMPETITION Win a night away for two including breakfast We know that Fly540 passengers love a selfie, so we’re asking you to send us your best 540 face with a copy of this magazine to be in with a chance of winning a night away for two including a sumptuous breakfast at Le Rustique Hotel in Nanyuki.

Competition terms and conditions - - - - - -

Closing date is 11 January 2019 One entry per person Entrants must be aged 18 or over Prize is issued as a voucher The organiser’s decision will be final This competition is not open to employees or their relatives of Le Rustique Hotel, Fly540, Fly-SAX or Land & Marine Publications Ltd.

Fly540 was incredibly pleased to take home a trophy at this year’s World Travel Awards held in Durban on 6 October. Fly540 bagged Kenya’s Leading Domestic Safari Carrier coming top in the category of five and once again took home the prestigious award, which recognises the hard work and commitment by everyone involved with Fly540 operations.

Le Rustique Hotel is a wonderful boutique hotel located in tranquil gardens with views of Mount Kenya. It offers cottagetype rooms for those wanting a luxurious stay at a reasonable price. Its spacious rooms are well equipped for business professionals, lone travellers, couples and families alike. The on-site restaurant is ideal for small celebrations, private events and private dinners.

For the lucky winner, Le Rustique Hotel is offering a fabulous night away for two people including breakfast. To be in with a chance, grab your camera or smartphone and take a selfie with this copy of 540 magazine, either on the plane or at a location of your choice, and email the image, along with your full name and booking reference, to: competition@landmarine.org. The winner will be picked at random after the competition closes on 11 January and the winning image will be featured in Issue 32 of 540 and Fly-SAX magazines.

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Five of the best

FIVE OF THE BEST:

Festivals in 2019 Start your new year by getting to know the best festivals to make space for in your diary. 540 is here to help you discover the top five ‘must attend’ festivals across East Africa in 2019.

LAMU

Image courtesy of Nichon Glerum

Yoga festival

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Five of the best MUSIC FEST 

Image courtesy of Peter Bennett

Sounds of wisdom

SAUTI ZA BUSARA

AND POSE...  A wellness festival

LAMU YOGA FESTIVAL

Zanzibar, 7-10 February

Lamu Island, 18-22 March

Sauti za Busara, meaning ‘sounds of wisdom’ in Swahili, is an East African music festival that takes place in the Old Fort of Zanzibar with additional events being held around Stone Town. Several hundred artists will take part in one of the largest music festivals in the region. It showcases a dynamic range of exclusively African music and is said to bring people together to celebrate ‘African music under African skies’.

With its tropical climate, near-empty beaches and sandy roads paired with numerous accommodation options for every budget, Lamu Island is the perfect setting for relaxation. So it comes as no surprise that the island is renowned for its yoga facilities, wellness centres and for the annual Lamu Yoga Festival, which takes place in March.

The 16th annual Sauti za Busara will feature three live stages with over 400 musicians performing 44 shows over the course of four days. There will be a carnival parade in Zanzibar Town and its outlying districts as well as Swahili Encounters, an opportunity for musicians from various backgrounds to come together and explore their differences and find common ground. The Movers & Shakers event will allow those who work professionally in the music industry to meet, exchange ideas and build their networks. Busara Xtra takes place at various hotels and resorts across Zanzibar during festival week. Past events have included open mike sessions, taarab orchestra rehearsals and street cinemas.

The woman behind the festival is Monika Fauth, who was inspired by the island’s calmness and clarity to establish Lamu Yoga, the community-bred organisation that hosts the Lamu Yoga Festival.

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Image courtesy of Thomas Dorn

Image courtesy of Peter Stanley

Tickets and passes are available at www.busaramusic.org

The latest event – the island’s sixth annual festival – will offer five days of yoga with more than 25 teachers, 150 yoga classes, meditations and workshops across Shela, Lamu Town and Manda Island, part of the Lamu Archipelago. Participants can expect to learn various different styles of yoga as well as joining in the Swahili Dinner and Sunset Dhow Sail. There will also be a special dinner and celebration on the last evening. You can register for the festival online and find out more at www.lamuyoga.org

Image courtesy of Rashde Fidigo

ZANZIBAR INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL Zanzibar, 6-14 July ZIFF, also known as the Festival of the Dhow Countries, is East Africa’s largest and longest-running film festival to date, marking its 23rd year in 2019. Held in Stone Town for nine days in July, the festival is one of the highlights of the island’s cultural calendar, with thousands of people attending each year. Film-makers, film lovers and tourists alike head to the festival to witness the town packed with the best of local and international film screenings, workshops, concerts, exhibitions and press events. ZIFF is an organisation established in 1997 to develop and promote film and other cultural industries such as art and music for social and economic growth in East Africa. Each year’s festival has an underlying theme and in 2019 it is ‘Kumekucha – New Dawn’. Find out more at www.ziff.or.tz

ONGALA MUSIC FESTIVAL Dar es Salaam, 23-25 August

The Ongala Music Festival takes place on Malaika Beach in Kigamboni and aims to provide a platform for artists in both Africa and the rest of the world while also promoting and showcasing local talent. Performances and happenings are documented on film and through recordings as a way of preserving and encouraging an international audience in Tanzania. This year’s festival line-up includes the Remmy Ongala Tribute Band, Siti & The Band and Nairobi’s Ambasa Mandela. Workshops during the three-day event include songwriting, composition and vocal training as well as storytelling, music marketing and conservation of the environment. Malaika Beach Club, also known as South Beach, was chosen as the festival venue because of its beautiful beach setting and picturesque backdrop. By car, you can reach the festival via the Kigamboni Bridge or there is a ferry every 15 minutes from the central business district of Dar es Salaam. Find out more at www.ongalamusicfest.co.tz

PAWA FESTIVAL Nairobi, December

The PAWA Festival, held annually in December, is an emerging street festival that takes place in the heart of Nairobi’s central business district. The festival serves to showcase East Africa’s creative genius through all forms of visual and performing art. Hosting this festival is PAWA 254, an organisation made up of young artists and activists striving for a better Kenya and making a positive impact on the country through the use of bold, artistic works to advocate the rights and responsibilities of Kenyans and protest against social and political vices. On the day of the festival, the streets are blocked off as the organisers bring together the best of art and film and music in the region. The event will also include film screenings, workshops, a family corner, exhibitions, crafts and a food court serving delicious treats. Find out more at www.pawa254.org

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Masai Marathon

By Mark Edwards

Running wild The Masai Mara Marathon showcases the sporting talent of the Maasai people as well as sensitising them to conserving their wondrous environment.

he Masai Mara National Reserve is famous for its annual wildebeest migration, but on 10 November there will be an altogether different phalanx of charging creatures in this sun-beaten wilderness, desperate to reach their destination, as the Masai Mara Marathon returns in its 10th year. The 21 km race, known as ‘The World’s Wildest Marathon’, takes place in the privately owned Lemek Conservancy, which covers about 17,000 acres in the Masai Mara and is open to locals and those from outside Narok County – often a long way outside, as the race has proved a bucket-list event for runners around the world. It’s easy to see why. The course winds through the verdant bush and shimmering grasslands of Kenya’s premier wildlife park, which burst with beauty and an amazing concentration of wildlife, including the Big Five.

Billy Konchellah The race, which was the brainchild of former twice 800 metre world champion Billy Konchellah, may not be marathon in length, but completing it is a challenge. Temperatures are likely to be pushing 30 °C in the final kilometres and the native wildlife, though beautiful to see, can create obstacles. Despite a helicopter being used to disperse the gazelles, zebras, antelopes, wildebeest and buffalos grazing along the route before the race begins, quite a few can be expected to show fascination at the sight of 3,000-plus humans running by and attempt 10

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to join in. Having your route blocked by a curious zebra may slow you down for a moment, but the thought that the Masai Mara is famous for its large prides of lions is likely to encourage you to keep up a steady pace. There’s no doubt the leading runners will post impressive times. Kenya has dominated the last three Olympic Games in track events, especially athletes from the Kalenjin tribe. Marathon world record holder and Olympic champion Eliud Kipchoge grew up in the rural Kalenjin community of Kapsisiywa, where he, like most children, unwittingly trained at altitude, running miles to and from school, worked in the fields and ate the nutrient-rich, farm-fresh food available. Former marathon world record holders Wilson Kipsang and Dennis Kimetto are also of Kalenjin stock.

Maasai tribe Another tribe with a rich running heritage is the Maasai. Two-time Olympic champion David Rudisha, who also holds the 800 metre world record, is a Maasai moran Like the Kalenjin, the long and lean

RUNNERS  The race puts smiles on faces

Maasai were born to run. They travel miles barefoot to find water and fresh grazing land for their herds of cattle. Warriors of the tribe have only their speed of foot and thought – that and a very sharp spear – to protect their herd from predators and are subjected to painful rites of passage such as circumcision, which they must bear stoically. Raised tough like this, a 21 km run is not going to trouble the Maasai.

The long and lean Maasai were born to run. They travel miles barefoot to find water and fresh grazing land for their herds of cattle

The marathon aims to help build athletic excellence within the region. A share of funds from the event goes to the race winner to create a mentorship forum where they can put their sporting and talent scouting skills to good use and raise the next generation of top-class runners in the communities where they live. There is work being done, too, in promoting the event to international sports tourists, who will travel great distances to run great distances. Pools of local and international organisations have also been sponsoring the marathon over the years.

5 km 5 km

Athletic excellence

All proceeds from the race go to causes in support of sustainable living in the region and conserve the wildlife of this vast yet increasingly fragile environment. Money will be directed to education, water, health, sanitation and conservation projects for communities living in the Mara ecosystem. The last three editions of the Masai Mara Marathon have contributed to the building of an administration block in Aitong Primary School, on the edge of the Masai Mara, and the construction of a dormitory, dining hall and kitchen at Namunyak Girls School in Narok County. They have also led to the planting of trees along the Mara River in an effort to help with falling water levels. Whether you achieve a personal best or not, your run will definitely count towards the future of the Masai Mara. There is still time to enter the race. To register, go to www.masaimaramarathon.co.ke/ masai1/registration The fee will depend on whether you’re a local runner or from outside Narok County. Registration starts at KES 500 for local competitors in the 21 km event.

21 km

There is the hope that events such as the Maasai Marathon and December’s Maasai Olympics, an organised sports competition based upon traditional warrior skills which has David Rudisha among its patrons, can give the tribe’s warriors a new way to prove themselves beyond the traditional lion killing, which is now banned in Kenya. It exploits the running talent among the Maasai community, while sensitising locals on the need to conserve the environment.

FUN RACE

HALF-MARATHON / OPEN RUN

21 km

CHOOSE YOUR DISTANCE

HALF MARATHON / LOCAL CATEGORY

Open for individual fun runners of all ages. Registration fee KES 5,000.

TEAM / CORPORATE RUN Open to single or mixed gender teams of a maximum of 10 and a minimum of five individuals with five to score. Registration fee KES 100,000 per team.

Open to male and female elite/ professional and fun runners aged 14 and above from outside Narok County who will be charged a registration fee of KES 1,000. Fun runners in this category must be 14 years and above. Registration fee KES 5,000.

Open only for local runners, male and female of age 14 and above from Narok County. Registration fee KES 500.

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Chef Raphael

‘I’m happy when my recipes bring families closer’ Internet chef Raphael on his inspirations, proudest moments and most popular dishes

CHEF RAPHAEL  The online culinary superstar

By Amy Laubach Images courtesy of Chef Raphael

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Chef Raphael

t the age of 24, Raphael Ndaiga decided to join the acclaimed Kenya Utalii College catering school in Nairobi so he could take up cooking at a professional level. He talks to Fly540 about his earliest culinary influences, how he stays motivated and his big plans for 2019. RAPHAEL NDAIGA  Inspired by his father

Q. How did you get into cooking? Was it something you always wanted to do? A. I got into cooking from an early age as I was curious and interested in how food comes together, so I would go to the kitchen and observe and try out some recipes when I got a chance. Mom also gave us cooking duties for the family with my siblings and I was happy to do it. My father worked at a popular restaurant, so we were also exposed to dining out and I got to appreciate tasty food and explore my growing interest in learning about cooking.

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Q. Who inspired you to become a chef? A. My career in the hospitality industry started with me working as a waiter, which was great fun. I decided to take the path of working in the kitchen professionally, since I felt it would be more marketable careerwise. I wouldn’t say there was one specific person who led me to that.

Q. What has been your biggest challenge so far? A. Whatever challenges I have encountered, I have seen them as learning curves and I have taken them positively.

Q. How quickly did your Facebook and YouTube videos gain views? A. It took time as I started posting on Facebook in 2012 and my goal then was to share my knowledge on cooking. I knew at some point it would be popular. My strategy was to grow slowly and organically and grow my content so that when more people discovered what I was doing they can have content that they can use as I continue serving them with more.

Q. What is your most popular dish? A. On my YouTube channel it’s the recipe for chapati.

Q. Your proudest moment so far? A. Having my story told on CNN and the world hearing my story. It’s also a great feeling, knowing

that I’m helping people out there improve their cooking.

Q. Do you find your video or blog style recipes to be more popular? A. My blog style recipes on Facebook are more popular since people find them easier to follow. I am currently working on new videos that will also be easy to follow and offer more variety.

Q. Where do you get your inspiration for new recipes? A. I get inspired from eating out and from my followers’ requests.

QUICK-FIRE Q&A Q: Favourite destination in Kenya? Malindi.

Q: Dream destination? I’m not sure, because I have been lucky enough to travel all over the world working as a chef.

Q. How do you stay motivated when working from your own kitchen? A. Having worked in busy kitchens over the years, I have learnt what matters most is the satisfaction of serving good food no matter the challenges and pressure that one undergoes to deliver.

Q. How did it feel when you were asked to become an author of Yummy Magazine? A. At that point when they approached me it was a positive progress and was a way to put myself out there sharing my knowledge. At that time it was the online platform.

Q. What is the most rewarding part of being an internet chef? A. Being able to reach many people from all over the world and making a positive impact in their life. I get feedback from people that their family or husbands are appreciative of their cooking and now they have confidence in cooking because of my recipes and guides. That makes me happy, because one of my main goals in what I do is to bring families closer through food and eating together.

Q: Favourite food? Chapati with ndengu.

Q: Name three things you can’t live without. My family, my phone and, of course, my kitchen knives.

Q. Your advice for young budding chefs? A. A friend and mentor once told me to have a consistence of purpose, which basically means one needs to figure out why they have taken up the chef career and consistently keep moving to make their goals to be who they want to be as their career grows.

“What matters most is the satisfaction of serving good food no matter the challenges and pressure that one undergoes to deliver”

Q. What are your hopes and plans for 2019?

FOR MORE INFORMATION

A. Launching about four weekly shows on my YouTube channel to show people how to make different meals from around the world.

Email: raphael@chef-raphael.com Facebook: chefraphael YouTube: Chef Raphael Web: www.chef-raphael.com

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Nanyuki

By Joan Wandegi

Why food lovers are heading for Nanyuki Nanyuki, the central town of Laikipia County, is very much on the tourist map these days, thanks in no small part to its exceptional choice of good places to eat.

or so long, Nanyuki has been seen as a pit-stop town – you know, the one where travellers barely pause to look around. A quick dash to the shops or the fuel station and they’re on their way to other destinations. Laikipia County may be home to the largest wildlife population outside the Masai Mara, yet most of the safari travellers who pass through Nanyuki seem to be in a great hurry and have no idea what’s good about the town. Over the past four years or so, however, some serious thought has gone into providing both visitors and residents with a diversity of culinary experiences that really showcase what the region is about.

Where to eat For those coming to Laikipia County, by road or air, there is a choice of highly recommended dining experiences that will serve as a fine introduction to the region and its people.

Trout Tree Trout Tree is to Nanyuki what the Carnivore Restaurant is to Nairobi. Just a 10-minute drive from Nanyuki, it offers one of those culinary experiences that just have to be slotted into your itinerary. Built in and around a huge fig tree, the restaurant serves exactly what it says: fresh trout farmed in

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ponds within the same compound. It gives diners that extraordinary feeling that they’re part of something bigger than what’s on the plate. The most popular dish on the menu is the simply grilled trout served with accompaniments that include buttered potatoes, saffron rice and fresh salads. If you want to really taste the fish in its full transformation, try the trout platter, which includes the in-house smoked trout, trout pâté and trout sashimi. For those who just want to enjoy the splendid ambience and views of Mount Kenya, the restaurant also has an assortment of cocktails. Local and some imported beers are kept cold in crates submerged in the pond located underneath the restaurant and guests can pull them up with pulleys.

Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Club One of the best things about the Mount Kenya Safari Club, now managed by the Fairmont Group,

DUMPLINGS  Mr Wok located in Cedar Mall

Images right, Courtesy of Joan Wandegi

Images left, courtesy of Mr Wok

familiar with it, but elevated to reflect the upmarket dining offered by Fairmont. Using top-quality produce from local suppliers and farmers, Fairmont aims to offer a taste of Laikipia, with each dish carefully composed so that guests can really taste the fresh ingredients. The new additions will include locally produced chicken stuffed with arrowroot, sweet potatoes in desserts and much more.

NYAMA CHOMA  Mlima View in Laikipia

Classic Chinese dishes include freshly made dumplings, sticky lamb ribs, cashew nut chicken and an impressive variety of vegetarian stir-fry meals is that, through multiple changes in ownership over the decades, the hotel has remained at the forefront in both its dining and accommodation. Located at the foot of Mount Kenya and a comfortable 10-minute drive from Nanyuki town, the hotel offers dining options that allow you to really submerge yourself in an experience that tells you much about what makes Laikipia so great. The warm hospitality of this establishment towards every guest seems to be imprinted in its DNA. The pièce de résistance here would be breakfast at the slopes. Guests can ride on horseback through Mount Kenya’s magical forest, with guides on hand to tell them

about the various species of trees and wildlife. Breakfast is simple but elegant, with fabulous views of Mount Kenya on one side and the forest on the other. The Tusks Restaurant and Terrace serves exceptional buffetstyle meals. The pâtisserie chef is second to none, filling the dessert counters with classic tarts, miniature versions of favourites such Death by Chocolate and other treats. Dinner is more formal, with a four-course set menu including vegetarian options. The new in-house chef, Kiran Ramsaran, is extending the menu. With years of experience in some of the best restaurants in Mauritius, he wants to introduce local Kenyan cuisine to those who may not be

Mister Wok The Chinese eatery Mister Wok, located in Nanyuki’s Cedar Mall, is ideal for guests who want a quick meal that is tasty and fresh and will not disappoint. Classic Chinese dishes such as freshly made dumplings, sticky lamb ribs, cashew nut chicken and an impressive variety of vegetarian stir-fry meals make this your ‘go to’ place if time is limited. We cannot wrap up without recommending some excellent nyama choma places for you to try, especially because Laikipia is renowned for its barbecued meat. Mlima View, just off the highway, about seven minutes from Nanyuki, serves ‘fall off the bone’ roast goat, beef and mutton slow-roasted to perfection and served with local delicacies. As you drive into town, you can check out the Lions Court Hotel, which also serves barbecued food in a relaxed setting. If you have an overnight stay in town and want to experience the nightlife, head to Moran Lounge, Nanyuki’s newest hot spot. Serving barbecued dishes and conveniently located just three minutes from the town centre, Moran also serves great cocktails, local and international beers at friendly prices in a secure environment. So you can relax and dance the night away. For more information, visit www.destinationlaikipia.com

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Rock climbing

By Mark Edwards

For those about to rock climbâ&#x20AC;Ś Kenya is an adventurous climbing destination for beginners and experts The dramatic, rugged landscape of Kenya provides some of the best rock climbing on the continent. Its most challenging peaks have provided tests for the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top climbers for more than a century

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Rock climbing

ritish political geographer and adventurer Halford Mackinder climbed Batian – the highest summit of Mount Kenya and the second-highest spot in Africa – in 1899 and plenty more European expatriates followed, putting up first ascents in Africa on testing crags around Nairobi. These peak pioneers established routes which still attract experienced climbers from far and wide, but there is also plenty in the country to entice the novice.

Unique challenges Whatever your level, rock climbing in Kenya brings its own unique challenges. Don’t be surprised if your ascent is given an extra frisson by wasp nests, tick infestations, marauding baboons and maneating lions. Kenya is certainly an adventurous climbing destination. Many of the best rock faces are situated in national parks, where you are likely to see much of the country’s big game. Certainly, giraffes and zebras will be more visible than fellow climbers. There is little chance of queuing on your ascent and the wonderful surroundings

just seem to be there for your group alone. A key resource for anyone considering a rock climbing adventure in East Africa is the Mountain Club of Kenya (MCK). This small, not-for-profit organisation was set up in 1949 to foster a community of climbers and develop the sport. It runs beginner and intermediate climbing courses twice a year and organises climbs and hikes for members each month. Many crags and climbing spots in Kenya face sensitive access issues, so the club is a vital intermediary in organising climbs. Here are some of the best climbing spots in Kenya, as recommended by the club. There’s something here for beginners to the most daredevil of climbers.

TIPS ON CLIMBING IN KENYA

Join the MCK. It offers access to Kenya’s climbing community, climbing courses and monthly expeditions you can join in.

Go with experienced people – they will know where to climb and, most importantly, can keep an eye on you and your safety.

3 4 5

Unless climbing in the shade, an early start is advisable as it often gets very hot on clear days.

Bring plenty of water. Only camp at organised sites.

Tips courtesy of the MCK. To get in touch with the club or to find out more about membership, the club’s climbing courses or its guidebooks, visit www.mck.or.ke

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BLUESKY IN DIAMOND PLAZA All right, so it’s not a real rock face – it’s indoors and affords views of nothing wilder than the four walls of a gym – but BlueSky’s climbing walls on the sixth floor of the Diamond Plaza shopping complex in Nairobi’s Parkland area are the perfect place to take your first rock climbing steps. The gym has all the equipment you need, including hire of climbing shoes. The staff will teach you how to use the top-rope climbing walls and how to belay (giving and taking in rope from the ground for your climbing partner on the wall, to keep them safe). Most weekday evenings there will be a good number of other climbers there as well as experienced staff who can help you get started. When you join the MCK, you get discount on entry at the BlueSky climbing wall on Wednesdays. For more information, prices and visiting times, visit www.blueskykenya.org

LUKENYA The most popular crag in Kenya is Lukenya Hills, just 40 km south-east of Nairobi along the Mombasa Road, which is a weekend playground for many city-dwelling climbers. The MCK owns the land on which most of the cliffs are located, so access is free for members (arrangements can be made for visitors to get temporary or even daily membership). There’s a variety of climbing routes, ranging from the very tricky, such as the sheer face of Arthur’s Horror, to those used by the club for its beginners’ climbing meets and overseen by instructors. The club also owns a property on Lukanya and a campsite on top of the hill for overnight stays during climbs. Camping anywhere else is not recommended. The site’s proximity to Nairobi means there has been the occasional security issue over the years and lone tents are vulnerable. The club recommends setting up security with Athi River Police Station a couple of days ahead of your trip, especially if you plan to camp overnight.

TSAVO NATIONAL PARK There can’t be many more effective incentives to start climbing a steep cliff than the threat of man-eating lions at ground level. In fact, Tsavo National Park’s infamous lions – the ones that chewed their way through 135 workers while the Kenyan-Ugandan railway was being constructed in 1898 – are long gone. Now their numerous descendants that roam the park see zebras and gazelles as a more satisfying food source. Still, climbing here is a dramatic experience, with elephants roaming below the cliffs, eagles, vultures and falcons circling on thermals around the crags and Kilimanjaro frequently visible on a clear day.

TESTING  There are climbs to challenge even the experts in Kenya

SAFARI  Climbers will get plenty of wildlife sightings at Hell's Gate

FROG CLIFFS This challenging climbing area beyond the Ngong Hills has about 200 established singlepitch (requiring just one stop at belay station) routes. The land belongs to the Kenyan Defence Force but, given notice, the MCK can sort access and provide a guide to the routes – Invaluable as a couple of the best, Ndeiya and Embarabal, require some hiking through bush to get to. The best of the routes are of the higher grades, so a trip here is best suited to more experienced climbers.

HELL’S GATE Thought to have been formed by a river spilling out of Lake Naivasha in the past, this magnificent gorge, with sheer cliffs rising to 150 metres and renowned for its wildlife, is designated a national park. Climbers here also get a safari experience, with grazing zebra, hartebeest, gazelle and impala, while the lake is full of flamingos. The cliffs, famous for their hard and serious climbing, are also home to a huge number of olive baboons and Verreaux’s eagles. While some of the routes on the vertical main wall are so testing they verge on the ridiculous, there are established easier ways up the well-protected eight-pitch 175 metre climb. In addition to the walls, there are a number of shorter faces, two small stacks and Fischer’s Tower, a 100 ft pinnacle, has several exciting routes achievable for beginners.

The MCK was invited to the park in the late 1970s to establish routes and now it offers some of the best rock climbing in the country. Kichwa Tembo and the Elephant Rocks have documented routes ranging from 100 to 300 metres long. Ivory Tower on Elephant Rocks ranks with the best and hardest bush climbs in Kenya. The MCK has the permit to climb in Tsavo National Park and to camp by the Tsavo River. Access to climb must be arranged through the club.

MOUNT KENYA There is rock climbing to be had of all levels of difficulty and styles on Mount Kenya – in fact, you can reach one of its peaks, Lenana, as a hike. But the altitude and the changeable weather make any form of ascent potentially perilous. Once acclimatised to the altitude, experienced climbers head for the south-east face of Nelion and then the strongest will continue on to its twin spire of volcanic rock, Batian, which is 11 metres higher at an altitude of 5,199 metres. The scramble between the summits, known as The Gate of Mists, can be prevented by snow and ice conditions. The best months to summit Batian are generally June to August, although September and October are possibilities, too. MCK members can access the very comfortable, cosy, and well-equipped hut at the base of the mountain on the Naro Moru approach to Mount Kenya.

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Matemwe

Matemwe, Zanzibar

First catch your OCTOPUS… Image: Harriet James

Harriet James discovers a restful pace of life among the fisher-folk FRESH CATCH  Matemwe's known for its fish

here’s an old Swahili saying, ‘Chokochoko mchokoe pweza, binadamu hutamweza’, which loosely translates as ‘If you want to provoke someone, poke an octopus – you will fail with a human being’. In Swahili, the word ‘chokochoko’ means ‘provocation’, but it comes from ‘chokoa’, meaning to

‘poke’ or ‘fork’. I thought of this as I watched the women forking the ‘pwezas’ (octopuses) in their holes with pointed wooden sticks. It made me appreciate the meal even more. Once the octopuses have been caught, the women will decide which ones to sell and which to keep to feed their children. I’m taking a guided reef walk at Matemwe, a fishing village in

the north-east of Zanzibar Island. While fishing is the main economic activity, tourism thrives here, too, and it’s famous for its fine whitesand beaches and the contrasting colours of the ocean as well as the beauty of the coral reef around Mnemba Island. I flew to Zanzibar with Fly 540, which operates two flights a day from Nairobi to Zanzibar. www.fly540.com

Matemwe

Zanzibar archipelago The Zanzibar archipelago consists of two main islands, Pemba and Unguja, together with other smaller islands. While many holidaymakers go to southern beaches such as Nungwi, I discovered a secluded beach where you can have a quiet and relaxed vacation. Matemwe Beach is perfect for people who enjoy relaxing with the sand between their toes. Those who love entertainment needn’t feel excluded, however, as they can drive to a nearby town for fun and return to the village later for peace and quiet. One resort where you can be sure of a great tropical experience is the vibrant yet laid-back Matemwe Lodge. Perched on an outcrop overlooking a shallow, coral-fringed lagoon on the quiet

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Images: Harriet James

In the course of a pleasant flight, a Swahili woman was reciting her dua on my right, while on my left my seatmate was sleeping off her jetlag. Before taking 40 winks, she told me how desperately she wanted to return to Kenya and see some of the wonderful places she hadn’t previously had a chance to visit. At the end of a flight of just over two hours we landed at Abeid Amani Karume International Airport.

Image: Harriet James

Matemwe is just a 90-minute drive from Stone Town, providing guests with easy access to day trips and excursions

north-east coast of Zanzibar Island, the lodge has a relaxed atmosphere that makes it the ideal place to unwind. Guests can choose between taking a break in a hammock or engaging in water sports like diving and snorkelling. At this impressive spot you can marvel at the abundance of exotic marine life, including dolphins as well as turtles and colourful reef fish. Here, the tides govern the rhythm of the village day. At high tide, the fishermen stream across the lagoon in their billowing dhows, while at low tide the ocean goes right out revealing a charming reef that you can explore for hours.

Matemwe village A guided walk in Matemwe village by local resident Mmadi Makame, who works at the lodge, opened my eyes to various projects to support local people in which the lodge is involved. One of its

achievements is the job opportunities it has offered to local residents. Seventy per cent of the staff are local people and some have been trained from scratch, like Moosi Koko Ame, who has advanced from a shy trainee without any comprehension of English to a full-time waiter. The lodge’s general manager, Ross Owen, told me they encouraged their staff to take the Lobster Ink online course of hospitality training. “The certificates are internationally recognised, which makes the staff internationally competent,” he said. The general manager, Gina Owen, is in charge of projects that support the local schools by providing uniforms and computers and building new classrooms. “Recently we had a school trip where we took 45 of the students down to the caves and old slave chambers to expose them as they

REEF WALK  Guests of Matewe Beach House

CHESS  Guests play beachside

offering a cultural insight into the Spice Island. Matemwe is just a 90-minute drive from Stone Town, providing guests with easy access to day trips and excursions. A qualified tour guide is recommended and my guide, Mussa Juma, ensured I had a wonderful time in this old city, now a World Heritage Site.

Prison Island Zanzibar was at the forefront of the slave trade at its peak in the 19th century. I also got to visit Changuu – Prison Island – which is home to dozens of giant tortoises, some of them over 200 years old. Its whitesand beaches and crystal-clear water make it a perfect spot for swimming and snorkelling. History buffs can visit the cells that once housed prisoners in the 19th century. The islands are famous for their production of spices, too, including black pepper, cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg, and a spice tour is highly recommended.

SWAHILI-STYLE  Cooking lessons in the village Image: Harriet James

Images: Mercedes Bailey (Asilia Africa)

don’t get to go out of the village that much,” said Gina. The lodge has 12 beach chalets scattered through the lush gardens, each with a private sea-facing veranda. There’s also has a beach house for families, plus a honeymoon retreat. Every year, five dollars of each bed night goes to support a village project. The number of guests staying at the lodge determines which project they will support. The latest project is to build houses for doctors and teachers in order to provide a skilled workforce in the village and to enable the locals to support themselves. For guests who would like to learn about authentic Swahili cuisine, the lodge has experienced chefs who will show you how to cook in Swahili style as well as

DOLPHINS  Visitors swim with the animals

Tatu bike race

Pedal power is king of the road Kenya’s top cycling event sends a ‘green’ signal

yclists from across East Africa joined Kenyan riders for the second annual Kiambu County road race – the biggest event of its kind in Kenya – which has put the focus on cycling as a pathway to more eco-friendly times. The two-day event was hosted by Tatu City in early September, with more than 200 riders competing for in excess of KES 400,000 in prize money. The main event on Day 2 involved a challenging 106 km course that rose to an elevation of 2,050 metres over the Gitwe and Mundoro hills. There was also a 60 km race.

Winners The main event was won by Salim Kipkemboi with a time of 2 hours, 45 minutes and 3 seconds, while Joyce

Nyaruri led the women with a time of 3:51:47. In the 60 km race, Lubega Abu-Moor was the overall winner in 1:39:57 while Camila Lydia was the first woman cyclist across the line with a time of 2:49:36. The road race drew teams from all over Kenya, including Safari Simbaz, Kenyan Riders, Team Arabika and Team Baiskeli. And for their outstanding performance on the uphill sections, Cornelius Kipkemboi of Kenyan Riders and Joyce Nyaruri were named king and queen of the mountain. Day 1 saw a variety of races around a traffic-free 4 km circuit in Tatu City on newly surfaced roads. There were categories for Kids, Ladies, Juniors, Seniors and Veterans as well as the Black Mamba community race. All the children were given medals and the winners in each category received vouchers from

CYCLE-FRIENDLY CITY The annual road race in Kiambu County has gone a long way towards encouraging more Kenyans to join in the nation’s rapidly growing enthusiasm for cycling. It has also put the spotlight on Tatu City, a new satellite of Nairobi developed by Rendeavour, a company specialising in out-of-town developments in Kenya and elsewhere in Africa. One of the progressive features of Tatu City, as pointed out by Rendeavour, is that it has cycle lanes planned into its road infrastructure. In a recent article, Nick Langford, the company’s senior man in Kenya, said: “Looking into the future, one of the major solutions to reducing motor vehicles on the roads is to integrate cycle paths in the plans for new developments. For instance, the upcoming 5,000-acre Tatu City, located in Kiambu County, has taken this into account. Once completed, the road network will be 100 km in length. This will consist of wide road corridors allowing for dedicated bus lanes, roadside parking, cycle ways and pedestrian sidewalks.” And he goes on: “The satellite city is envisioned by the developers as a unique live, work and play environment free from traffic congestion and long-distance commuting. Commuting instead will be by foot and bicycle over short distances. For those unable to do this, commuting will be via dedicated solar powered shuttle buses.”

Text Book Centre. There was also a wellattended family fun day in parallel with the cycling race. After the main race, women’s champion Joyce Nyaruri said: “The course was tough, with beautiful scenery all along, and I am glad not only to have participated but to have won as well.” And overall winner Salim Kipkemboi said he was ‘elated’ by his achievement and was already looking forward to next year’s event.

Great initiative Speaking on behalf of Kiambu County, women’s representative Muthoni wa Muchoba said: “The Tatu City road race is a great initiative. I am glad to see that not only are there professional cyclists in this event, but also a large number of members of the surrounding community.” This year’s event was held in partnership with Kenyan cycling enthusiast Hashim ‘Zuzu’ Sharif, a well-known organiser of cycling events. Sponsored included Sossi, Sama Ice, Coca-Cola, Yatta Juice by KWAL, Farmer’s Choice and Utalii Kwa Baiskeli. In last year’s inaugural event, also in Tatu City, over 140 cyclists took part and the overall winner was Suleiman Kang’ang’I of the Kenyan Riders.

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The Beacon

All aboard the jellybean express Nairobi mall with a ‘sweet factory’ theme is a fitting tribute to late architect A new retail complex in Nairobi with a design theme based on a sweet factory looks set to create a fun atmosphere for shoppers. The Beacon project is the work of the late Professor Will Alsop, an architect with an outstanding portfolio of projects across the world.

new shopping centre called The Beacon with a fun twist in its design is on the way in Nairobi. aLL Design, an international collective of architects and designers based in London, has won planning permission for this shopping centre and Grade A office project. It was designed by the late Professor Will Alsop, who co-founded aLL Design in 2011.

Creators The new open-air mall is being created by aLL Design in partnership with the Kiloran Development Group and will be characterised by a sweet factory theme. It will feature 24,300 square metres of retail, food and beverage space accompanied by a 4,200 square metre seven-storey office tower overlooking the mall’s impressive roof garden and bar. As well as using the latest manufactured

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materials and technology, the project will involve local craftspeople and artisans. The Beacon will be characterized by vivid colours, striking patterns and quirky features such as a light monorail with jellybean carriages and a piano staircase. A helter-skelter, a merry-go-round and other playful design twists are part of the plan to create a uniquely fun atmosphere for shoppers. Meanwhile, the exterior will closely resemble a theme park, with fabric canopies and monochrome porcelain panels. Due for completion in spring 2020, the new complex will be located along the Uhuru Highway between the central business district, the industrial area and the Upper Hill financial district and will broaden the range of leisure activities on offer.

Find out more at www.all-worldwide.com

THE BEACON ď ł

The Beacon will be characterised by vivid colours, striking patterns and quirky features

Creating a fun atmosphere for shoppers

WILL ALSOP (1947-2018) William Alsop, who died in May this year, was a prominent British architect and artist. The Beacon aims to encompass the qualities of innovation, expression and enjoyment that were so highly valued by Professor Alsop. Among the many accolades for projects in his lifetime, he was awarded the RIBA Stirling Prize for Peckham Library in London and the first RIBA World Award for the Sharp Centre for Design at the Ontario

College of Art and Design (OCAD) in Toronto. His iconic designs also include Glenwood Power Station in Yonkers, New York. Professor Alsop sat on architectural advisory boards for Wandsworth Council and Kensington and Chelsea Council in London and held posts at Vienna University of Technology and at Canterbury School of Architecture in England.

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SafeBoda

Rethink your ride… SafeBoda

Motorbike hailing app is geared to road safety

HOW TO USE IT

Launch the SafeBoda app on your smartphone and key in your destination

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You will be shown a price for your journey and prompted to request a SafeBoda

Top up your wallet using MTM or Airtel Money to ride cashless or select cash payment

Ride your SafeBoda

Pay with cash or credit and rate your driver

The motorbike ride hailing application SafeBoda is one of the fastest-growing companies in East Africa. Founded in 2014 in Kampala, it has taken Uganda by storm, employing 5,000 professional motorcylists to serve 100,000 customers a week in the capital. So it was only a matter of time before SafeBoda crossed the lake to make its mark in Kenya.

ith road accidents expected to match HIV-AIDS as one of the chief causes of death in low to middle income countries by 2030, there has never been a better time to offer the public ready access to safe and affordable mobility. Step forward SafeBoda, which in August reached the top spot as the most downloaded mobile application in Uganda. The app connects professionally qualified motorcyclists to customers who want safe, convenient, affordable and quick transport at the click of a button. SafeBoda’s riders are trained in road safety, first aid, motorbike maintenance and customer service. The customer is given a good-quality helmet to wear during the ride as well as a high-visibility jacket for maximum safety.

A fair price

SAFE RIDE  Riders are welltrained in road saftey

For every ride, customers are given a fair price with no bargaining required. Users are invited to top up their wallet on the SafeBoda app so they can ride cashless. On reaching their destination, and if they are satisfied with their journey, customers are encouraged to pay the fee and rate their driver out of five stars on the app. Users can also pay for their ride in cash if they prefer. What’s more, the company promises to have a well-trained SafeBoda rider at your door within five minutes of your request. The company has become a pioneer in road safety in the region, partnering with organisations such as Safe Way Right Way, the Red Cross and the Global Road Safety Partnership, a World Bankfunded organisation. The SafeBoda app is available on Android or iOS.

Visit www.safeboda.com to find out more.

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SLEEP OVER

Water Lovers Beach Resort

Beachfront idyll with an Italian flavour

n a 25 km stretch of Diani’s whitesand beach, lined with palm trees and edging the crystal-clear ocean, lies Water Lovers Beach Resort. This tranquil property is within easy reach of the city of Mombasa and its international airport as well as being quite close to Shimba Hills Natural Reserve, a sanctuary for elephant, buffalo, antelope and other wildlife. The resort belongs to Italian couple Riccardo and Valentina, who moved to Kenya after visiting the Masai Mara and being deeply impressed by the south coast with its array of colours paired with the calmness and clarity of the ocean. “It was love at first sight!” say Riccardo and Valentina. The couple ended up settling in Diani Beach due to amenities such as banks, supermarkets and international-standard hospitals. The couple built the resort from scratch, choosing an area overlooking a blue-water lagoon that reaches out 500 metres to a coral reef.

Ocean-facing verandas The beach resort, which has an inviting turtle-shaped pool as its centrepiece, consists of eight spacious and stylish suites, each with its own ocean-facing veranda for privacy and fitted out with air conditioning and mosquito nets. Electronic features such as complimentary Wi-Fi, a cellphone and local line and a handy

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charging dock provided for the convenience of guests. A self-contained villa is available with a fully equipped open-plan kitchen, two spacious double bedrooms, two kingsized bedrooms and a cosy lounge-dining area. A brand-new penthouse overlooking the ocean is also available to rent. With four super-suite bedrooms, three bathrooms, a private gym and a

spacious living area, it offers a high standard of luxury and comfort. There is also a beautiful wooden deck with outdoor sofas and a gas barbecue for guests to enjoy at their leisure. The room interiors at Water Lovers Beach Resort express a unique blend of Swahili culture and Mediterranean style with Caribbean influences, all designed to echo the idyllic ‘beach escape’ setting of

The room interiors express a unique blend of Swahili culture and Mediterranean style with Caribbean influences, all designed to echo the idyllic ‘beach escape’ setting of the resort

THE CENTREPIECE  Turtle-shaped pool

By Amy Laubach All images courtesy of Water Lovers Beach Resort

Or why not stay at…

HOTEL VERDE ZANZIBAR – AZAM LUXURY RESORT & SPA

the resort. Much of the inspiration for this was gathered by Riccardo and Valentina in the course of their travels.

Tides Restaurant The property’s charming on-site Tides Restaurant, next to the swimming pool, features whitewashed arcades and African cedar wooden beams as well as sofas with a multitude of blue cushions. It serves delicious meals using top-quality fresh produce. Among the most popular dishes for hungry guests are roasted pumpkin ravioli in a crab and fish ragout and crab fagottini with

avocado and a lime sauce, while the dessert menu includes a passion fruit mousse garnished with white-chocolate flakes and mint leaves. For drinks, the Ocean Spirit beach bar serves cocktails, fresh fruit juices and aperitifs accompanied by music. The property recently saw the addition of the Kola Spa, a cosy and vibrant retreat offering top beauty treatments and massages so guests can feel even more pampered in the luxurious Water Lovers resort.

Find out more at www.waterlovers.it

s the greenest hotel on the island, Hotel Verde Zanzibar – Azam Luxury Resort & Spa is one of a kind. Set just outside historic Stone Town and only a 15-minute drive from the airport, it’s the ideal location for all travel purposes, whether it’s business or adventure, a family holiday or a special event. Each room offers luxury accommodation with a private balcony and views of the coast or the mangrove forest. It also offers a wide range of dining options and we can cater for up to 300 delegates in our world-class venues. Hotel Verde Zanzibar is a dry hotel, but they never leave guests thirsty. A lively and vibrant experience awaits with their range of non-alcoholic mocktails, freshly prepared juices and purified water. Hotel Verde Zanzibar proudly chose to be a dry hotel to promote a safe and healthy environment. In 2019 Hotel Verde Zanzibar will be offering facilities such as a spa, a gym, a water park and a marina to complement its unique offering. Guests will have the option to reserve these offerings through our concierge desk. We looking forward to welcoming you. Tel: +255 242 250 140 Email: reservations @znz.hotelverde.com www.hotelverdezanzibar.com

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SUPPER CLUB

By Amy Laubach

Mama Ashanti

Images courtesy of Mama Ashanti

You can’t beat a good Western… Food lovers who want to sample fine cuisine from the opposite side of the continent should direct their feet to the Lavington district of Nairobi, where the West African-style restaurant Mama Ashanti is waiting to show them more.

n the quiet setting of Muthangari Gardens, just off Gitanga Road in the Lavington suburb of the capital, there’s a place serving top Ghanaian and Nigerian dishes – and doing a great job of winning over East African palates. Mama Ashanti has been a popular feature of the city’s ‘good food’ scene ever since it opened in 2014, receiving a warm welcome from local people and visitors alike, including West Africans, of course. The restaurant is particularly popular with business people and is looking to expand to accommodate the growing demand.

While the restaurant is set in tranquil gardens with an open terrace, there’s an indoor bar and dining area for cooler times and evenings, while the Eko executive lounge is available for private dining.

Vision The vision of Mama Ashanti is to serve up good, simple food without overcomplicating its menu and to provide its customers with authentic West African homecooked food at a reasonable price. The family-orientated restaurant takes its name from the Ashanti tribe in Ghana whose members

AT WORK  Preparing delicious food

BARBECUED MEAT  Home-cooked delights

include Akuamoah Boateng, the founder of Mama Ashanti. The Ashanti tribe is a matrilineal society associated with female strength and motherhood. Mama Ashanti offers a wide range of grills, starters, soups and main dishes to suit each palate. The restaurant imports its ingredients and spices directly from West Africa and prepares them in the same fashion to give an authentic taste. Popular dishes include grilled whole fish in an Ashanti sauce, fiery pepper soup with goat or fish and grilled chicken mshikaki with fresh kachumbari. Most of the main dishes are accompanied by either spiced or plain plantain or chips. The West African eatery can also deliver its freshly prepared food to the customer’s door for a small fee.

Find out more at www.mamaashanti.co.ke www.fly540.com

DRIVE TIME

Toyota Corolla

No more Mister Bland (on the outside, that is)

realise it may be some years before many East Africans actually get a chance to drive the latest Toyota Corolla – and then only after the car finally arrives in Mombasa or Dar es Salaam as a cherished used import. Second-hand imported Corollas have always been popular in Kenya and Tanzania and I have no doubt that this latest incarnation of the marque will be

COROLLA  The 2019 model

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equally loved by budget-conscious buyers in the years ahead. For the time being, however – for those who can actually afford a new Corolla – here’s what the 2019 model has to offer.

Long time coming Up until now the Corolla has been an undistinguished and rather bland model among an increasingly stylish Toyota lineup. It has taken a while in coming, but the

SPACIOUS Roomy on the inside

By Sam Gimson All images courtesy of Toyota

Toyota Kenya told 540 that the first examples of the new Corolla should be in the Nairobi showroom on Uhuru Highway early in 2019 2019 Corolla is now ready to sit alongside the very best that the automaker’s design team can create. Based on the Toyota New Global Architecture (TNGA) production system, this new Corolla sits lower and has a longer wheelbase than its immediate predecessor; and to my mind this has completely transformed the somewhat unappealing driving experience of previous models. Inside, as you’d expect from a new Toyota, the build quality is admirable. Yet

Toyota still wants to play safe with the cabin layout and the dashboard and the resulting interior is less cutting-edge than the exterior. There’s an 8.0-inch touchscreen front and centre, but the graphics are a bit of a let-down and, somewhat surprisingly, Apple CarPlay and Android Auto are not available. And there is also only one USB port – not quite good enough in 2019. Moreover, the rear legroom is disappointingly cramped, while a further minus point is the small and shallow boot.

When it’s sold new in East Africa, the Corolla will come with a choice of petrol engines, although Toyota was unable to be more specific. It’s unlikely that a hybrid option will be available locally. Toyota Kenya told 540 that the first examples of the new Corolla should be in its Nairobi showroom on Uhuru Highway early in 2019.

Appealing On a positive note, this is an exceedingly well-built and good-looking car – one that will appeal to many East Africans, if not now then at some point in the future. At which time, many will be willing to forgive the Corolla’s few minor shortcomings and look to the car’s strong residuals, plentiful spares and rock-solid reliability. It’s what makes Toyota East Africa’s number one.

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Zanzibar

Zanzibar Tourism Show 2018

The Zanzibar Tourism Show 2018 was a great success. Hosted by Hotel Verde from 17 to 20 October, the show was the first of its kind in Zanzibar, with many exhibitors in attendance. Among the exhibitors were a number of hotels, tour operators, destinations and attractions from across Zanzibar and Tanzania.

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GADGETS

SMART TECH TO OWN AMAZON KINDLE OASIS It’s possible to buy an Android tablet for under US$ 100 and load up the Kindle app. But a dedicated e-reader comes with significantly better battery life and the display makes it much easier to read text over a length of time. The Kindle Oasis is claimed to be the most feature-rich e-reader available today. The screen is larger and it comes with automatically adjusting backlighting. The new Kindle Oasis is also the first waterproof Kindle, with IPX8 certification, allowing it to be submerged for up to an hour. On the plus side, the new Kindle Oasis comes with a large seveninch display, ambient light sensor, physical page turn buttons, audible integration, water resistance and outstanding battery life. On the downside, it’s far from cheap and there is no headphone jack. Price: US$ 269.

NIKON Z7 AND Z6 APPLE IPHONE XR The iPhone XR (pronounced ‘tenR’) is the least expensive of the three iPhones unveiled by Apple in September. Similar in many ways to the new iPhone XS and XS Max, it is nevertheless US$ 250 cheaper than the entry-level XS. In effect, it is an iPhone 8 merged with an iPhone X. This iPhone XR comes in a wider range of colours than the other two devices. It’s available in red, white, coral, black, blue and a vivid yellow. From the back, the iPhone XR looks like an iPhone 8 because of the single-lens camera that is slightly raised. The aluminium frame around the edges has an upmarket feel and the durable glass is capable of wireless charging. This device no longer has Touch ID with chunky bezels around the screen or a home button. The iPhone XR’s design is quite similar to the iPhone X but with a few differences. The bezels are thicker than on the iPhone X although still much thinner than on the iPhone 8. The XR has a 6.1-inch screen and is comfortable to hold. Perhaps the biggest internal difference between the XR and other iPhones is the LCD screen technology – labelled by Apple as a Liquid Retina HD display – which is impressive. Content on the screen looks quite sharp thanks to a resolution of 1,792 x 828 resolution (326 pixels per inch). The wide colour display uses True Tone, which adjusts the screen’s colour according to the ambient lighting. Price: US$ 749.

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Nikon’s new full-frame mirrorless camera system is now available. The new Z-mount system features a largerdiameter mount, with further possibilities of lens design and greater capabilities in optical performance. The first cameras in this new Z-mount system are the Nikon Z7 and Z6, both equipped with a full-frame CMOS sensor with built-in focal plane phase detection auto focus and the latest Expeed 6 image-processing engine. The Z7 has a 46 megapixel (MP) sensor and supports an ISO range of 64 to 25600 – ideal for landscape photography and studio work where sharpness and detail are key. The less expensive Z6 is likely to appeal more widely. It has a 24 MP sensor and supports the wider ISO range of 100 to 51200. The Z6 is ideal for when speed is vital, such as sports photography, and in low-light environments. The cameras have different AF systems. The Z6 has 273 phase-detect AF points, with an impressive 12 fps, while the Z7 has 493 phase-detect focus points and a burst rate of 9 fps. Otherwise, the cameras are identical, with 4K video recording, five-axis image stabilization, an OLED electronic viewfinder, XQD memory card slot, batteries that support USB charging and Wi-Fi. The Z-mount system will offer a variety of high-performance lenses. Initially there is the option of a 24-70 mm f/4 zoom or 35 mm f/1.8 or 50 mm f/1.8 prime lens. Prices: Nikon Z7 with 24-70 mm f/4 lens costs £3,999. Nikon Z6 with same lens is £2,599.

ENTERTAINMENT

Watch. Read. Listen. MOVIES THE GRINCH

VENOM

Director: Scott Mosier, Yarrow Cheney Starring: Benedict Cumberbatch, Rashida Jones, Kenan Thompson Genre: Children, Animated

Director: Ruben Fleischer Starring: Tom Hardy, Woody Harrelson, Michelle Williams Genre: Action, Science Fiction

Illumination and Universal Pictures presents ‘The Grinch’, based on Dr Seuss’s Christmas movie classic. The movie tells the story of a grumpy Grinch who goes on a mission to steal Christmas from the Whos living in Whoville. However, he has a change of heart thanks to one young girl’s generous holiday spirit. Funny, heartwarming and visually stunning, it’s a universal story about the spirit of Christmas and the power of optimism.

Journalist Eddie Brock (Tom Hardy) attempts to take down Carlton Drake, the notorious founder of the Life Foundation. While investigating one of the founder’s experiments, Eddie’s body merges with alien venom, leaving him with superhuman strength and power. Fuelled by his anger, Venom tries to control the new and dangerous abilities that Eddie finds so intoxicating.

STARS: 3/5

STARS: 4/5

BOOKS BELLEVUE SQUARE

NINE PERFECT STRANGERS

BY MICHAEL REDHILL

BY LIANE MORIARTY

Genre: Suspense, Thriller Jean Mason has a doppelganger. She has never seen her, but others swear they have. Apparently, her identical twin hangs out in Kensington Market, where she sometimes buys churros and drags an empty shopping cart down the streets. Jean decides to investigate. She begins at the crossroads of Kensington Market: a city park called Bellevue Square. Although she sees no one who looks like her, it only takes a few visits to the park for her to become obsessed with the possibility of encountering her twin in the flesh. A peculiar collection of drug addicts, scam artists, philanthropists, philosophers and vagrants – the regulars of Bellevue Square – are eager to contribute to Jean’s investigation. But when some of them start disappearing, she fears her alleged double has a sinister plan. Unless Jean stops her, she and everyone she cares about will face a fate much stranger than death.

Genre: Thriller, Domestic Fiction Could 10 days at a health resort really change you forever? Nine people are about to find out as they gather at a remote health resort to lose weight or reboot their lives. They know it might involve some real work, but none of them could imagine just how challenging the next 10 days are going to be. Frances Welty, the formerly best-selling romantic novelist, arrives at Tranquillum House nursing a bad back, a broken heart and a painful paper cut. She’s immediately intrigued by her fellow guests. Most of them don’t look to be in need of a health resort at all. But the person that intrigues her most is the mysterious owner of Tranquillum House. Should Frances put aside her doubts and immerse herself in everything the house has to offer, or should she run while she still can?

STARS: 3/5

STARS: 4/5

MUSIC TRENCH

JUBILEE ROAD

TWENTY ONE PILOTS

TOM ODELL

Genre: Alternative, Indie

Genre: Singer-Songwriter

Trench will be the fifth studio album by American musical duo Twenty One Pilots, and is the band’s first studio album in three years, serving as a follow-up to their fourth studio album, ‘Blurryface’. The album has been preceded by the release of four singles this year, firstly ‘Jumpsuit’ and ‘Nico and the Niners’ in July and ‘Levitate’ and ‘My Blood’ in August. Brand-new tracks on the album include ‘Chlorine’, ‘Cut My Lip’ and ‘Pet Cheetah’. The album is said to be sonically diverse, with some songs belonging to the heavy rock genre and some having reggae tones.

The highly anticipated third album from London singer-songwriter Tom Odell is released in October. Odell wrote this album in a house on a quiet street in East London. The lyrics are inspired by the friends he knew while living there and the music is a culmination of 10 years of writing. The album concentrates much more on music and lyrics, including the new single ‘If You Wanna Love Somebody’ and other songs like ‘Jubilee Road’, ‘Son of an Only Child’ and ‘Wedding Day’.

STARS: 5/5

STARS: 4/5 www.fly540.com

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Contact Information

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RESERVATIONS

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Travel Info

Travel Information VISA INFORMATION  Most nationals require visas to enter East Africa. Citizens from the five East African states require no visas while those from the Common Market of East and Southern Africa (COMESA) member states have relaxed entry requirements into East Africa. However, East African member states have their own visa requirements for various nationals.

HEALTH  Vaccination requirements for international travellers: • Only valid yellow fever vaccination certificates are required of all travellers over one year old, arriving from yellow fever infected countries. • Vaccinations for international travellers are obtainable from all international air and sea ports, city and major municipal councils.

INSPIRING CAPTIVATING INFORMATIVE Multi-platform publishing and design services

For further information please contact:

Land & Marine Publications Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Email: info@landmarine.org

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KENYAN VISAS  Under new rules, all foreigners requiring a visa for entry into Kenya must apply for one in advance via www.ecitizen.go.ke. A visa is required by all visitors travelling to Kenya with the exception of those who are nationals of a number of countries, including – but not exclusive to – East African Community Partner States (Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda, United Republic of Tanzania and Uganda). • Multiple entry: US$100 • East Africa Visa: US$100 (for travel between Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda) • Single entry: US$50 • Transit Visa: US$20 Persons aged 16 years and below will require a visa to enter Kenya. Diplomatic, Official, Service and Courtesy visas will continue to be issued Gratis. For more information, please visit your relevant Kenya High Commission website.

SOUTH SUDAN VISAS  Any visitor going to South Sudan requires a valid visa. Citizens of Kenya, Uganda, Tanzania, Rwanda and Botswana can get visas upon arrival. Diplomats and officials with special passports are also given visas on arrival, and UN staff are given visas on arrival providing that they have an approval letter from the South Sudan Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Other nationalities must acquire referred visas or process for an entry permit in order to enter South Sudan. Fees: • American Nationals: US$ 160 • African and Asian Nationals: US$ 50 • European Nationals: US$ 100 • All other passports assessed accordingly

TANZANIAN VISAS  All foreigners from non-Commonwealth countries are required to have a valid visa unless their countries have agreements with Tanzania under which the visa requirement is waived Exemptions: Citizens of Commonwealth countries are not required to obtain visas unless they are citizens of the United Kingdom, Canada, Nigeria, India, Pakistan, South Africa, New Zealand or Australia. Tanzanian visas are issued at entry points to Tanzania, including ports and airports, and any other gazetted entry point, from the Tanzanian High Commissions or embassies abroad, from the office of the Director of Immigration services in Dar es Salaam and the office of the Principal Immigration Officer, Zanzibar. For more information visit: www.tanzania.go.tz/tanzaniaembassiesabroad.htm

Fleet

The Fly540 Aircraft Fleet

BOMBARDIER DASH 8 102 SERIES  Type: Twin-engined, medium-range, turboprop airliner Number in service: Two Fly540 operates modern aircraft and is constantly updating and modernising its fleet.

Capacity per aircraft: 37 passengers

The company uses aircraft such as the ATR 72-500, which burns only half as much fuel as some other aircraft and also emits less carbon into the atmosphere.

CANADAIR CL-600-2B19 REGIONAL JET 

This underlines the fact that Fly540 is a ‘green airline’ that cares for the environment.

Capacity per aircraft: 50 passengers

The crew and engineering team are professionally trained and certified to ICAO standards.

CESSNA CARAVAN C208 

Type: Twin-engine regional jet Number in service: Three

Type: Single turboprop engine, fixed-gear short-haul regional airliner Number in service: Two Capacity per aircraft: 10 passengers

FOKKER F28  Type: Twin engined medium range jet airliner Number in service: One Capacity per aircraft: 67 passengers

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Kids’ Corner

Kids’

CORNER DINOSAUR

JOKES

Q: What do you call a dinosaur who’s on time?

A: A pronto-saurus.

A: A dino-snore.

Q: What is it called when dinosaurs get into car accidents? A: Tyrannosaurus wrecks.

Q: What do you call a dinosaur with no eyes? A: Do-you-thinky-saurus.

Q: Which dinosaurs were the best policemen? A: Tricera-cops.

Q: What’s as big as a dinosaur but weighs nothing? A: His shadow.

Q: What are a dinosaur's floors made out of? A: Rep-tiles.

Q: What is a T-Rex's favourite number? A: Eight. 48

Africa’s low cost airline

DINOSAUR

MAZE

Can you find your way out of the maze?

DINOSAUR

ANAGRAMS

Answers: 1. Bones 2. Eggs 3. Raptor 4. Extinct 5.Teeth 6. T-Rex

Q: What do you call a sleeping dinosaur?

Unscramble the letters to reveal the words related to dinosaurs

1. SBENO 2. SEGG 3. RTOPAR 4. IXETNCT 5. HTTEE 6. X-ERT

540 MAGAZINE / ISSUE 31 / NOV 2018 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; JAN 2019