JAHAZI issue 04 - Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries, AZAM Marine by Land & Marine Publications Ltd.

Issue 4 Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries

Kitesurfing paradise

Atom Coffee Hub Baristas know the best brew for you Take two to Tanga The most romantic spots in the north east

Why Paje on Zanzibar's east coast is a haven for watersports and more Also inside

RAWAN DAKIK Your Free Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries Magazine

First Tanzanian woman to climb Mount Everest

In this issue Bookings:

Feature pages

azammarine.com

+255 22 2123324

Welcome Karibu Safari njema

The Zanzibar Channel in numbers

@azammarine

Azam Q&A

kilimanjaro fastferries

Meet a member of our team...

officialazammarine

Rawan Dakik

A Tanzanian on top of the world

Jahazi is the official magazine of

Azam Marine and Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries Opposite St. Joseph Cathedral Sokoine Drive, P.O. Box 2517 Dar es Salaam, Tanzania Tel: +255 22 2123324 Email: info@azammarine.com Web: azammarine.com Jahazi is published by: Land & Marine Publications (Tanzania) Ltd. Room A14, 3rd floor, Josam House plot Number 16, Mikocheni Area Along Coca-Cola Road, Dar es Salaam Tel: +255 686 118 816 www.landmarine.com Advertising sales: Catherine O’Callaghan Tel: +44 (0)7944 212063 (WhatsApp) Email: catherineocallaghan@landmarine.com

Neema Crafts

New shop in Dar

Atom Coffee Hub

The brew for you

27 Tanga

It takes two to Tanga

The best night clubs

…across the KFF network

Whale watching in Zanzibar

How to get the best experience

Top five

…reasons to visit Paje 36

Swahili story time / Wakati wa hadithi

Mvumilivu… na Joseph Shaluwa

Godfrey S. Urassa Tel: +255 (0) 686 118 816 (WhatsApp) Email: godfreyurassa@landmarine.com Editor: Mark Edwards markedwards@landmarine.com Head office: Land & Marine Publications Ltd. 1 Kings Court, Newcomen Way, Severalls Business Park, Colchester, Essex, UK, CO4 9RA Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Email: publishing@landmarine.com Jahazi is printed by: Jamana Printers Ltd, Dar es Salaam The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions. ©2021 Land & Marine Publications Ltd.

Jahazi regulars 8

In pictures

Travel information

Asili Festival

Win a VIP return trip with Azam Marine

Our services, travel tips and ferry schedules

Our destinations

Our fleet

Route maps

21 Competition

Read Jahazi online: qrs.ly/mzcr3qt

Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries book online at azammarine.com

Welcome Karibu Safari njema It is my pleasure to welcome you onboard your ferry crossing with Azam Marine and Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries, the number one ferry company in East Africa. We started out with just one vessel, the Mv Muungano, but now have a fleet of air-conditioned catamarans that provide the best possible services for Tanzanians, international tourists and business travellers. Our passengers are very dear to us and we have made great efforts to ensure your experience with us is a positive one all the way from booking your tickets to the moment you arrive at your destination.

Issue 4

Our online ticket purchasing system is a quick and easy way to plan and pay for your journey in advance. Boarding is similarly hassle free thanks to the design of our vessels and our carefully organised boarding protocols. Once we are under way, passengers can sit back and enjoy the journey with in-cabin features such as personal entertainment systems and a range of available refreshments competing for your attention with the spectacular Indian Ocean views from the cabin windows. Our ferry crossings are safe and speedy and deliver you right into the heart of Stone Town or Dar es Salaam for your business or leisure engagements. Another bonus to travelling with us is getting to sit back and enjoy the latest edition of our onboard magazine, Jahazi! Once again, we have brought together the people and places that make the Tanzania mainland and Zanzibar so special. You can now keep up with the latest Azam Marine and KFF news as well as some amazing images of our fleet in action on our new Instagram page @azam_marine

‘Your Safety is our Priority’.

Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries www.azammarine.com

Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries book online at azammarine.com

Zanzibar Channel

The Zanzibar Channel in numbers Azam Marine and KFF knows the Zanzibar Channel very well with its fleet crossing it multiple times each day to connect passengers between Unguja and Dar es Salaam as well as Tanga and Pemba. Here are some fascinating facts and figures about this beautiful stretch of water.

29 km

The shortest distance between the Tanzanian mainland and Unguja.

18 metres

This is the average depth of the waters in the channel. In the central channel that increases to between 30m and 40m while at either end of the channel the deep waters can reach 700m to 900m over a relatively short distance.

110 km

The length of the Zanzibar Channel from its northernmost point at Tanga to its southern entrance indicated by a lighthouse located on the mainland coast on the Ras Kanzi promontory, 22 km south of Dar es Salaam.

9 hours

And 1 minute - the time it took for South Africans Jean Craven, Megan Harrington Johnson, Samantha Whelpton and Emil Berning as well as Kenyan Robert Dunford to swim the 29km crossing, starting at the Pungume Sandbank, in 2015.

25 °C

This is the lowest water temperatures in the Zanzibar Channel are every likely to drop. You can swim all year round here whether you’re crossing the channel or just splashing about with friends.

The number of trade (monsoon) winds that govern the water currents here. From May to October, the ‘kuzi’ southeast trade winds blow with great strength and constancy of direction. The ‘kaskazi’ northeast winds are weaker and blow from November to April.

Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries book online at azammarine.com

Azam Q&A Meet a member of our team...

Every day is different working in PR…

I LOVE THE ENERGY OF IT We have a dedicated team here at Azam Marine and Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries, focused on providing exceptional service for our passengers. In this issue of Jahazi we meet Public Relations Officer Wahida Nassor, who reveals how social media has become a crucial promotional tool, what led her into this line of work and where she hopes her next KFF adventure will take her.

hen did you join Azam Marine and what are the day-to-day duties of your role? I joined Azam marine in May 2019 and my daily tasks involve developing public relations campaigns and media relations strategies, collaborating with cabin crew, onboard ship management and shore management. I also edit and update promotional material and publications on board (such as brochures, safety videos, social media posts), attend our sponsored events, address enquiries from the media, track media coverage and follow industry trends. There’s no such thing as a typical day. One day I will be doing one task, another day a different one, some days all of them!

I took a short course in basic computer applications, then I completed my certificate and then diploma in Information and Communication Technology and a bachelor’s degree in Information Security at Unique Academy, in Upanga East. I am currently studying for a Master of Business Administration in Corporate Management (MBA-CM) at Mzumbe University.

What appeals to you about public relations as a career option? Public relations is ideal for someone who is prepared to work hard and craves challenges that come with unique rewards and creative opportunities. Public relations representatives are responsible for how the company they work for is perceived in the outside world.

Can you tell us about your educational journey? I started my primary education at Al Muntazir Girls School then went on

How have the skills you learnt during your education helped you in your role as public relations officer? You can only improve your skills if you try and sometimes fail. I always learn from my mistakes. Curiosity also helps me to improve, get inspired and learn new things. My education has helped me improve my communication skills. I now write captivating content for clients whether it’s press releases, magazine articles or blog posts. I have also improved my social media skills. Other skills I have obtained include

What are some of the unique selling points of Azam Marine and Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries that you are keen to get across to the public in your role? We have always been proud to say we provide a range of services whether you are travelling on a budget or looking for a luxurious experience. Kilimanjaro VII, our latest ferry, has an interior design interior design that brings passenger luxury in all classes for the voyage. Her Royal Class area is of similar to the first-class cabins in high-standard airlines. Stewards serve snacks and beverages to VIP and Royal class passengers and every seat comes with its own entertainment monitor and there is WIFI onboard. Even the economy passengers on the main deck can luxuriate in their comfortable seats. I can proudly say it’s the most luxurious and comfortable ferry in east and southern Africa

to the Shree Hindu Mandal secondary school, both in Dar es Salaam. After that

time management. It is crucial when I am juggling multiple courses and my work

In addition, we also have the latest and sophisticated fire-fighting and

lifesaving equipment and well as trained crews and divers. Our aim has always been to be the number one African brand and we will continue providing innovative services that meet domestic and international standards. How important is social media as a communication tool when you are building the KFF brand? For me, social media is about conversations, community, connecting with the audience and building relationships. Social networks allow us to interact directly with our customers. For KFF it is not just a broadcast channel or a sales and marketing tool. Authenticity, honesty and open dialogue are key. We aren’t afraid to try new things, and social media plays a huge role in making those new things known to audience. Social media not only allows us to hear what people say about the brand, but enables us to respond, react and improve. We listen first, speak second. What do you think are some of the key qualities that make a good public relations officer? I believe good communication skills are at the heart of public relations. I have to deal with a range of people across different cultures and languages. It’s also crucial to think creatively. Public Relations needs new ideas to be successful. Having creative thinking will skyrocket your career. Excellent research skills are also mandatory. In my job I have to interact with a range of clients from totally different industries so I need to know about their market and brand to speed up the process of relationship building.

The ability to adapt to change is also crucial. The media landscape is constantly changing. People are consuming media through apps and social media more than ever with clickbait as a style of reporting is normal. Finally, your presentation skills should be on point. Gaining presentation practice is key, as it enables me to passionately outline and explain my creative ideas to the clients, media buyers, and journalists. How have you had to adapt the promotion of the ferry service in light of restricted tourism numbers due to pandemic travel restrictions? On top of our normal cleaning procedures, we ensure the fleet’s seating areas and lounges are thoroughly cleaned and sanitized before and after each trip. Doors and windows are also opened to improve airflow. Onboard we maintain social distancing by ensuring there is always an empty seat between each passenger and we provide free protective masks to each passenger on boarding. How have you tried to promote Azam Marine and KFF as the transportation of

choice between Dar and Stone Town and Tanga and Pemba? I am making sure people know about our e-ticketing system, which passengers can access through their any kind of mobile phone. It is convenient, secure and reduces costs. In addition, I make sure that word gets out about the amazing features of our fleet through published commercials in the media. I also get to meet the public face-to-face at trade shows such as Saba Saba Day [Dar es Salaam International Trade Fair]. Last, but not least, I have started a referral and discount programme to attract frequent local and international travellers. What interests do you pursue in your spare time? I love to read. I believe developing a thirst for knowledge is key to growth in your career. Marketing moves fast and reading keeps me up-to-date with the latest trends. You’ll also find me attending conferences. It’s great for networking and picking the brains of the best marketers and public relations specialists. When you take a trip on an Azam Marine and KFF ferry what are some of the places you like to visit and why? I love Zanzibar! Stone Town is great to explore with thousands of years of history brought alive. I also love its white sands, the diving opportunities, spotting the Kima Pinju monkeys only found in Jozani Forest and going on spice tours. Next, I hope to take a trip to Pemba. When I get there, I will definitely take a trip out to Misali Island, where the diving is supposed to be spectacular.

Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries book online at azammarine.com

Photography: Salim Mwandoro @pichazasalim and Matei Babu Follow on pages

Asili Festival A hip-hop celebration Rappers, DJs, breakdancers and graffiti artists entertained and educated in a celebration of hip-hop culture held in June at Nafasi Arts Space. Emerging and established artists from across the country came together at the Dar es Salaam arts centre as it hosted the first ever Asili Festival with support from the French Embassy in Tanzania. The three-day event began with workshops from the likes of veteran rappers Nash MC and Jay and Dar graffiti collective Wachata Crew. There were also live performances from homegrown talent such as Juma Nature, Nikki Mbishi, Mex Cortez and JCB Makalla and US rapper Balance Thee Ekwayzion. The festival finale was an amazing performance by SwahiliFrench band East Africa Riseup. The Nafasi stage also hosted a series of competitions to find the country’s best rappers, DJs and breakdancers. Arusha confirmed its place as Tanzania’s hotbed of hip-hop talent with artists from the region claiming all the top prizes. RMC was named best rapper, DJ Cent255 won the DJ award and 1 vs 1 – Kilimbo Skills took home the breakdancing trophy. For more information and photos, visit the Nafasi Arts Space Facebook page @nafasiartspace

IN PICTURES

Rawan Dakik

A TANZANIAN ON TOP OF THE WORLD In May, 20-year-old Rawan Dakik became the first Tanzanian woman and the youngest African to climb Mount Everest. It was the literal summit of a mountaineering journey sparked by a love of ‘being active in nature’ and the wealth of natural wonders in her home country. Here Rawan relays the highs and lows of her adventure to Mark Edwards.

Images courtesy of Rawan Dakik

Rawan on Everest

dmund Hillary once said: “Life’s a bit like mountaineering, never look down.” It’s a slice of worldly wisdom that’s a good lesson to us all to keep striving for our goals, but what if you are Rawan Dakik and you have climbed to the summit of Mount Everest, the highest point in the world, by the age of 20. Where’s up from there? Both Dakik and Hillary will be forever in the Everest record books. While New Zealand mountaineer Hillary was the first – along with Sherpa Tenzing Norgay – confirmed to have reached the summit, Dakik, who was born in Arusha to Lebanese parents, is the first Tanzanian woman and the youngest ever African to get to the top.

Tourism ambassador Rawan reached the summit on May 22 and since news broke of her accomplishment across the world’s media, she has become something of a superstar in Tanzania. Crowds greeted her arrival at Kilimanjaro International Airport from Nepal and among the welcome party was Wilfred Moshi – the first Tanzanian to summit Everest – and the government’s deputy minister for tourism Mary Masanja. The following month the ministry named Rawan as a tourism ambassador for Tanzania. It’s a role she is delighted to take on, sharing the natural wonders of a country,

which she describes as “like heaven”, to her global followers. For all the adulation and attention in the outside world, Rawan cuts a calm, composed figure when I video link with her at the family home in Arusha. She describes home as her “safe area” and is very close to her extended family, who have supported her mountaineering journey from the start. “They are a motivation to me,” she says. “They were the only ones I kept in contact with on Everest and they helped push me through. They have always pushed me to be my best.” When we speak, Rawan has just returned from a gym session, having restarted her training regime a couple of weeks ago. The focus has been on rebuilding her strength. An Everest ascent, she tells me, is incredibly demanding on the body. The days of

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Rawan Dakik

intense climbing at high altitudes blazes through muscle tissue as well as fat, depleting strength and motor co-ordination. Rawan’s recovery was also hampered by the fact she contracted covid on the mountain. Each member of the 17-strong team she climbed with was tested for the virus each day from arrival in the Everest foothills. Rawan’s results were always negative until she arrived at Base Camp on her way down from the summit.

Next expedition It is now six weeks since Rawan returned from Everest and only now is she starting to feel her energy coming back. The lull has not just been physical. Rawan has admitted on social media – you can follow her intrepid adventures on her Instagram page @dakikclimbs – to symptoms of “climber’s depression”, a psychological crash common among those coming down from the euphoria of summiting a peak that has obsessed them for some time. “Once you’ve made the dream you’ve had in your head come true, you can feel lost without a goal,” she says. However, Rawan has new challenges in place to keep looking up to. Her next mountain to tackle is Denali, in Alaska. It’s the highest point in North America and the only mountain left to summit before Rawan becomes the youngest ever person to climb all of the world’s highest continental peaks. If all had gone to plan, the Everest climb would have sealed that Seven Summits record, but her attempt on Denali in 2018 had to be abandoned. The 6,190-metre mountain is renowned for its extremes of temperature with the sun heating the thin atmosphere

to scorching conditions in the day before they plunge at night. It’s a recipe for frostbite and Rawan “got it really bad,” she says. “The weather there is really harsh on the body.” After that disappointment, Rawan began what was to become two years of training for an Everest ascent after the initial climb date in March 2020 was cancelled a week before she was due to fly out to Nepal because of the pandemic. In hindsight, the extra year of preparation – including acclimatising to altitude with nights spent sleeping on the Stella Point crater near the peak of Mount Kilimanjaro and putting in many hours running and endurance training with a coach – served her well on Everest and Rawan feels confident about taking Denali on again.

Seven Summits Each of the Seven Summits has its challenges. Carstensz Pyramid, the highest point in Indonesia, required “six or seven hours of rock climbing”; the 6,961-metre Mount Aconcagua in Argentina was Rawan’s first climb at “really high altitude” and she can still remember “suffering a lot” on her way to the top of the Mt Kilimanjaro. She crossed the ‘roof of Africa’ off the Seven Summits list when she was 13 and a student at the International School Moshi, now UWC Africa, as part of its Outdoor Pursuits programme. Here Rawan was encouraged in her love of “being active in nature”. School principal Phil Bowen says: I think that Tanzania offers arguably the finest outdoor education opportunity in the world and we aim to capitalise on these opportunities. Rawan was always determined and rose to a challenge whether of a recreational, sporting or

curricular nature. We are so proud of her but not at all surprised by her accomplishments. She was always destined to be a winner!” Rawan had found her passion. “When you do something you like, everything else just follows,” she says. Her school years were full of mountaineering expeditions, including becoming the first Tanzanian to scale the 5,137-metre Mount Ararat, in Turkey, when she was just 12 years old. Still, you’d imagine getting to the top of Everest has to top all of these mountaineering feats. Rawan is still coming to terms with the enormity of what she has achieved. It was almost impossible at the moment of summiting when she had just 10 minutes to take pictures and look out at the “unbeatable” view from the top of the world – the dangers at that altitude are so intense that climbers are advised to begin their descent, perilous in itself, as soon as possible. Now, back in Arusha, she has had more time to reflect and for it to sink in that “yes, that happened” as she laughingly puts it. So many people on her return want to hear her story and talking to them has helped Rawan make sense of it,

For two months she survived in an environment, which could flip from beauty to savagery in a moment and where life and death balanced on a knife-edge

but she wonders if it has become something else in the telling: “Your summit is just for you until you are back home,” she says. What she tells me of the Everest climb leaves me lost in admiration of her levels of bravery, patience and focus, which all belie her tender years. For two months she survived in an environment, which could flip from beauty to savagery in a moment and where life and death balanced on a knife-edge.

The ascent In March, at the beginning of the Everest climbing season, Rawan arrived in the Himalayas by helicopter rather than the initially arranged light aircraft as Lukla Airport was closed due to bad weather. Flying over the airport – renowned as one of the most dangerous in the world – and taking in its perilously short runway that ends in a steep drop into the valley below, Rawan was glad of the change in plans. Then followed more than a month of acclimatising to the altitude and terrain. Adhering to the “climb high, camp low” mountaineers’ adage, Rawan and an international group of 16 other climbers, were led on treks to

There were emotional highs and lows during the Everest ascent

Everest Base Camp before returning to the relative lower altitudes of settlement Lobuche to rest and recuperate. At an elevation of around 4, 940 metres, Lobuche was the group’s home for 20 days until, taking advantage of some “semi-good weather”, as Rawan puts it, they set up at Base Camp. Further weather windows allowed the group to make forays to Camp 1 and then Camp 2 on the south face approach to the top, before returning to Base Camp once again. These rotations meant navigating the notorious Khumbu Ice Fall, a glacier that moves around a metre down the mountain every day, forming large crevasses and collapsing large towers of ice as it does so. “Crossing the icefall was harder than the climb at the summit,” Rawan says. “We had to set out very early – around 2am – when the ice is frozen. When the sun hits the ice things start to melt and avalanches are happening around you all the time.” Each member of the team was assigned their own Sherpa guide and Rawan is full of praise for hers. When crevasses formed from the shifting ice, he would attach a ladder and ropes across the plunging drop so Rawan could edge her way on. “My Sherpa was really amazing,” she says. “He would call out ‘danger zone, danger zone’, when we approached crevasses. He allowed me to go at my own pace. We didn’t have time to talk much, but he could be really funny. It was his 13th summit and he took good care of me.” For all the potential danger, Rawan was in her element at Khumbu, interacting with nature and testing her skills in a sport she loves. “The icefall is a cool place,” he says. “The glaciers are right next to you and I got to make use of

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Rawan Dakik

technical climbing skills such as working with ropes.” Such focus and experience helped Rawan cope better than most when the next rotation took the group up to Camp 3 where, at altitude of 7,300 metres, the paucity of oxygen in the air becomes desperate. At this stage, altitude sickness forced nine of the group to turn back. Rawan was among the six, along with their sherpas, who kept on towards the summit, making welcome use of the extra oxygen tanks the returning climbers had left behind – even if wearing the mask was, as Rawan says, “annoying as you can barely see where you are going”. Even with supplemental oxygen, resting beyond a couple of hours at Camp 4, the final camp before the summit, is unbearable and the final ascent – the first time climbers will get to see the summit – is fraught with danger. In mountaineering, altitudes over 8,000 metres are tagged as the “death zone” where the pressure of oxygen can’t sustain human life for long. The top of Everest is 8,849 metres.

The ‘Death Zone’ Rawan saw morbid confirmation that she was entering the “death zone” on her final hundreds of metres to the top as her route took her past three corpses – mummified in the snow and ice – of climbers that had perished in their attempt on Everest. One of the dead had embarked on their climb in the same season as Rawan. Her parents must have been terrified that their daughter was risking her life? “It’s natural. Every parent would be worried,” Rawan tells me. “But, they trust me to make the right decisions.” When Rawan reached the summit

she raised Tanzanian and Lebanese flags in tribute to her dual heritage as well as a peace flag. “When I carry both flags it means something very personal,” she says. “I’m proud to be Tanzanian and Lebanese at the same time. Both countries shaped who I am. The peace flag is for world unity. Lebanon is a harsh environment that has never known lasting peace.”

Mental challenge A fierce wind whipped the flags and 10 minutes later Rawan was beginning her descent. “You have to remind yourself that getting to the top is only half way,” she says. The descent is often considered the hardest part of the climb when fatigue starts to tell. Rawan felt very weak on the way down, which was part explained when she got her positive covid test on return to Base Camp. Looking back now, though, Rawan feels the most challenging part of the climb was all in her mind. “The physical part of the climb is not as hard as the mental,” she says. “I learned a lot of things about myself on Everest.” While Rawan loves mountain climbing for the opportunity it gives her to commune with nature and reflect alone – “You get time to think. I always have a plan in my head when I come off the mountain,” she says – she was glad of being around other climbers at her low points. “It really helped to engage with people when I was down,” she says. “I knew I was going to have times when I struggled and it would be super hard to be alone then. I was lucky that I was with climbers from the US, Sweden and South Africa. They were an interesting group.” Once back in Tanzania, Rawan was also able to get back to

communicating with her online following. “When I see the impact I have on people, it inspires me to keep on inspiring,” she says. As well as her climbing exploits beyond the country’s borders, she has been spreading the word on Tanzania’s natural wonders for some time. That will continue apace now she is a Tourism Ambassador. The appointment is “an honour”, Rawan says, and she adds “the Tanzanian government has always been supportive of me.”

Climbing in Tanzania Rawan knows her country well. Its mountains have been her playground since she was a young girl. Growing up in Arusha, Mount Meru was her “view very day” and she has climbed it many times along with other favourites such as the highest peaks of the Usambara Mountains and the Ngorongoro Crater. However, it is Mount Kilimanjaro that has truly captured Rawan’s heart. Wherever she goes – including the summit of Mount Everest – she wears a silver necklace with the word ‘Kilimajaro’ as its pendant. Since first climbing it aged 13, she has summited five times “and each time it is different”. “I can talk about Kili for ever,” she laughs. Having Africa’s highest mountain “just two hours” away from where she lives is special. “I can interact with the porters in Swahili and hear their stories. They climb it as a job and to survive. Climbing is an amazing way to interact with these cultures. The last time I climbed it via the longer Northern Circuit and took in the amazing views on the Kenyan side.” Rawan hopes to showcase adventures such as this to intrepid tourists in the future. It’s a career plan she is working towards with her degree in Sports Management

Having Africa’s highest mountain “just two hours” away from where she lives is special. “I can interact with the porters in Swahili and hear their stories

Rawan celebrates her record-breaking Everest achievement

at the Geneva Business School in Madrid, Spain. She still has two years to go on her course as her studies put on hold for a term so she could climb Everest. Next year, the school’s summer break will find her climbing Denali. It’s an inspiring lesson that there is always more to learn, always more mountains to look up to. Rawan’s journey gives drive to other who may be facing mountains in their life, real or metaphorical, and can see that they can be overcome by bravery, perseverance and discipline “I always say to myself ‘pain is temporary, but success is worth a lifetime’. Patience and determination got me where I am.”

Rawan’s favourite wild adventures in Tanzania

1. MOUNT KILIMANJARO 2. NGORONGORO CRATER 3. LAKE CHALA 4. USAMBARA MOUNTAINS 5. MOUNT MERU

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Neema Crafts

NEEMA CRAFTS New shop in Dar The deaf and disabled artists of Neema Crafts have been creating beautiful bags, blankets, table lamps, furniture and kids’ toys at their workshop in Iringa since 2003. Now these unique, handcrafted products are available to shoppers in Dar es Salaam with the opening of the not-for-profit organisation’s new store, Neema Home, at the Slipway shopping centre.

Images courtesy of Neema Crafts Neema Crafts artisans at work

he one-of-a-kind products that come out of the Neema Crafts workshop in Iringa are loved across Tanzania, but now it’s never been easier for people in the country’s biggest city, Dar es Salaam, to purchase latest additions to the range with the launch in July of the not-for-profit organisation’s new store, Neema Home, at the Slipway shopping centre in Msasani Bay.

One-of-a-kind crafts Any purchase from Neema Home is something special. Each item will have been designed and hand-made by a deaf or disabled artisan at the Iringa centre with sustainable materials ingeniously sourced from the surrounding region. Its ceramics are made from a nearby deposit of high quality stoneware clay and its notebooks, cards and packaging are made from recycled paper and maize leaves and even – in some cases – elephant poo from Ruaha National Park (it is washed thoroughly before use). The range of products also includes tailored children’s clothing and bags; screenprinted cushions; woven scarves, beaded necklaces made from recycled glass and carved wooden candle holders and lamp bases. Each product is a one-off, handmade from scratch to a design devised in-house. The talent of the artisans is evident in the quality of each item.

in Tanzania a rare opportunity to pursue their potential. It is an initiative that has had far-reaching effects, not just for the team members who have learned marketable skills they can support themselves with, but also in changing attitudes towards disability in the country. Most, if not all, of the artisans can recount times before they found Neema Crafts when they felt ostracised and vulnerable in society because of their condition. Now they have an income to support themselves and their family with Neema Crafts there to continue to help them towards independence with entrepreneurship. It offers training and grants for those who want to set up their own small businesses and a housing committee to help staff buy land and build their own homes.

Anyone buying products from Neema Home will be contributing to the lifechanging work the charity carries out. All profits are invested in the continued development of the project.

‘Great opportunity’ The arrival of Neema Home should provide plenty more funds with the footfall from the Slipway shopping centre – one of Dar’s prime retail spaces. Katy Ray, who is co-director of Neema Crafts with her husband Ben, says: “We are really excited to be finally setting up shop in Dar. For years people have been asking ‘when are you going to have a shop here?’. It’s going to be a great opportunity to demonstrate the incredible talent of our artisans to a much wider audience.’

Sharing with Sifa Collective The Neema Home store in Dar will also sell the similarly handmade and all-Tanzanian work of Sifa Collective. Sifa Collective is a registered charity that trains young women in hand-stitching, fabric dying, screen-printing and design work on clothing. The students then use their skills to create wonderful batik pillows, headbands, wraps and kimonos as well as leather bags and purses all by hand. As with Neema Crafts, all revenue from sales goes back into the project to ensure each student is equipped with the artisanal and entrepreneurial abilities to make her own living once the two-year course is completed. For more information, visit sifacollective.com

Neema Crafts has given disabled people

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Neema Crafts

Wooden pendant lamp (from TZS 70,000)

Child’s screen printed dress (TZS 49,000)

Shagalabagala lampbase (from TZS 50,000)

SHOP NEEMA CRAFTS

Woven blanket (TZS 92,000)

Neema Home, Slipway, Masaki, Dar es Salaam.

Tripod lampbase (from TZS 250,000) Cushion square (TZS 28,000)

Neema Crafts, Iringa – visit the workshop (tours available Monday to Friday), buy the handcrafted products, eat at the café, stay at the guesthouse (email: guesthouse@neemacrafts.com) Shop online in Tanzania: neemahome.org For more information, visit the website neemacrafts.com, email info@neemacrafts.com or go to @neemacrafts on Instagram

JULIAS’ STORY Each individually created Neema Crafts product tells a story – one that the purchaser becomes a part of with their money helping to continue the work of the project. Each artisan also has their own moving and inspirational tale to tell. Here is just one.

18. This meant he could no longer go to school as he had no means of transport and the school was too far to crawl to. He had only reached Standard Four and has had no education since. At the age of 18 he started work at a local farm helping in the gardens. It was a means of income, but he still felt very isolated.

Julias is a tailor in the Neema Crafts workshop and makes bags and cushions. He was three years old when he contracted polio, which meant he lost the use of his legs and was not able to get around. He was also the first-born child in the family so he didn’t have older siblings to help him.

He worked there for 11 years before he came to Neema Crafts. He says: “I was on a 10-month tailoring course and when Neema called me to come and start work, I came immediately! Now I have an income and the difficulties in my life have decreased. I have learnt new skills and am able to use them outside of Neema as well.

He was not treated well by the children in his community and he stayed at home all day. His father started taking him to school when he was 14 years old but he passed away when Julias was

“I now live with my wife and children in a new house built with support of the Neema Housing project, and I am happy that I can support and provide for them.”

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Competition A chance to win A VIP return trip from Dar to Zanzibar

How to enter To be in with a chance of winning this prize, answer the three questions below (they are all based on features in the magazine where you’ll find the answers). Email the answers, along with a photograph of you holding Issue 4 of Jahazi on your KFF journey to competition@landmarine.org by the closing date: October 8th 2021.

Answer these three questions What is the name of treacherous glacier of shifting ice on the south face of Mount Everest? In which Tanzanian city was Neema Crafts first set up? What was the name of the first vessel in the Azam Marine fleet?

ow do you like the idea of traveling between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar in VIP style and all for free? Well, that’s exactly what’s on offer in Jahazi’s prize competition this issue. Thanks to Azam Marine and KFF, one lucky winner will win a VIP return ticket from Dar ferry terminal to Stone Town port on Zanzibar Island. The journey across the Zanzibar Channel will be experienced in comfort and luxury in the catamaran’s VIP Lounge. They can relax in

the airplane-style leather seats and enjoy the great views and plenty of natural light from the surrounding floor-to ceiling windows. The winner will also enjoy free wi-fi, their own personal entertainment console with a library of films and TV programmes, complimentary drinks and snacks and – surely best of all – the latest issue of Jahazi to read at their leisure.

Last issue’s winner Competition terms and conditions: Prizes dependent on availability. One entry per person. Entrants must be 18 years or over. The decision of the organisers will be final. The competition is not open to employees and their relatives of Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries, Azam Marine or Land & Marine Publications Ltd. The prize does not include travel to and from destinations.

Congratulations to Lightness Mollel who wins a dinner for two at Kuku Kuku.

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Atom Coffee Hub

THE BREW

FOR YOU The modern coffee drinker is becoming increasingly particular when it comes to the quality and origin of their daily brew. Such discerning tastes are well catered for at Dar’s Atom Coffee Hub. Here not only are you assured of coffee made from the finest beans farmed in Mbeya and Kilimanjaro, its expert team of baristas are also versed in the latest brewing methods – that can make Atom look as much like a science lab as a café on occasion – to help you in your pursuit of the perfect cuppa. Here, Jahazi provides a guide to the brews on offer with the help of Atom co-founder Abbas Jaffer Ali.

Image: Osse Greca Sinare

V60 This brewing method looks disarmingly simple yet produces a very clean and flavoursome cup of coffee. The V60 coffee dripper was designed by Japanese laboratory glassware manufacturer Hario in the middle of the 20th century, but has undergone a sharp rise in popularity in the last decade. It gets its name from the 60 degree ‘v’ shaped angles of its cone that optimise extraction and fits on top of your coffee cup. To use it you place a paper filter inside, up against the spiral ribbing of the cone’s inner walls, which allows air to be released while brewing. Then you place the ground coffee on the filter

and pour over the water, which should have been boiled and left for a minute for the optimum temperature and added at a ratio of 15g of water to every 1g of coffee. The brewing process takes about three minutes as the coffee drips into your cup. Flavour: V60 delivers incredibly clear flavours and aromas, allowing coffee lovers to enjoy even the subtlest notes in their coffee. Advantages: The materials required are inexpensive and very portable so if you love your V60 brew at Atom you can recreate it at home or on your travels.

The V60 also leaves at lot of room for experimenting to find your personal brewing sweet spot by adjusting pouring speed or altering the water/coffee ratio. Disadvantages: The V60 is designed to make one or two cups of coffee at a time so is not ideal for your brewing to share. Abbas says: “The V60 brewing method extracts the most hidden and delicate notes of the coffee bean, and really allows one to truly enjoy every unique element of its flavour. It can also be adjusted to extract a stronger or a lighter tea-like drinking experience.”

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Atom Coffee Hub

Chemex Like the V60, Chemex is another pourover method of brewing coffee. There are more similarities than differences between the two, but the Chemex cone is attached to an attractive hourglassshaped glass carafe so is designed for brewing multiple cups. It also uses a thicker filter so it doesn’t let any sediment pass into the carafe resulting in a brew even clearer than the V60 (which is still very clear). Flavour: With its heavy filter eliminating unwanted fats or oils, you get a clean, pure, flavourful cup of coffee without bitterness, acidity or sediment.

Cold brew Cold brew coffee is rapidly becoming the drink of choice amongst many coffee aficionados, especially younger drinkers and it certainly is a refreshing alternative to a hot cup of coffee when temperatures soar in Dar. To be clear, cold brew is not the same as iced coffee, which is simply regular coffee served over ice. For a cold brew, the coarse-ground coffee is steeped in cold water for 12 to 24 hours. It is then sieved through filters to make a coffee concentrate that can be served diluted with ice and more cold water. It’s time rather than heat that extracts the flavour.

Advantages: The all-glass construction imparts no additional flavours into your cup, ensuring that you are tasting just coffee.

Flavour: Heat pulls some of the most intense and aromatic chemicals out of coffee beans, giving it its acidic, slightly bitter taste. Cold brew is then slightly sweeter, a bit milder and way less acidic.

Disadvantages: Why many love the Chemex’s clean, light taste, aficionados of stronger bodied brews – such as the French press – may want something heavier.

Advantages: Cold brew can be easier on the stomach than hot coffee and once you have your concentrate prepared, you’ve got your chilly brew on tap for the rest of the week.

Abbas says: “A Chemex brew extracts brighter notes in comparison to other drip coffee methods, while maintaining the body of the coffee and giving the drinker a very rich profile.”

Disadvantages: This may be an advantage to some, but the steeping process ups the caffeine content of your brew. So, it’s a great pick-me-up, but not the best evening drink if you need a restful night’s sleep.

The Siphon brewing method looks like something out of a mad scientist’s lab with its bulb-like vessels and liquids bubbling away over the heat of a Bunsen burner. It is so visually impressive that the process becomes a bit of a theatre in itself and an opportunity for the master baristas at Atom to really show their skills. A siphon coffee pot has two chambers, a carafe on the bottom and a coffee brewer on top. When water is heated in the bottom chamber it begins to vaporise, creating pressure that pushes it up into the top chamber to mix with the ground coffee in the top chamber. Once the heat is removed, the pressure reverses and the liquid is drawn back to the carafe, passing through a filter that retains the coffee grains. What’s left is rich, fresh coffee. Flavour: It’s a sophisticated coffee making method and has a flavour to match with a smooth, full-bodied and crisp flavour. Perks: It may have been developed in the 1840s, but many of today’s coffee cognoscenti still think it’s the best you can get. Crashes: It takes time so not ideal for coffee lovers on a tight schedule. Abbas says: “Siphon produces a smooth, tea-like cup and it is a lot of fun to watch this coffee brew!”

Osse Greca Sinare

Abbas says: “Cold brew is brewed for an extended period of time with cool water, and therefore removes any bitterness from the coffee. The result is an extremely smooth and sweet, highly caffeinated and cooling cup.”

Siphon

It may look like the giant syringe of a particularly sadistic doctor, but the Aeropress brews amazing tasting coffee. Its plunger presses the ground coffee and water that is steeped inside through a filter and the brewed coffee is captured in the chamber below. Flavour: There is plenty of scope for brewing different flavour profiles, but it is mostly used for espresso-style brews. Advantages: The Aeropress weighs almost nothing so is great for travellers or those who want to enjoy coffee in the great outdoors, which is fitting as it was devised by the inventor of ‘Frisbee on steroids’ the Aerobie. It also brews very quickly – taking between 30 and 60 seconds. Disadvantages: Can’t brew coffee for more than two persons at once.

Kalita Wave This is another pour-over brew method that stands out with its textured stainless-steel cone and design elements that combine for a more even extraction while brewing. It is used by speciality coffee houses across the globe and in professional coffee making competitions because its filter’s wide brew bed and multiple drainage points contribute to a fuller flavour. Experts also like it, because the key to maximising these qualities depends on a slow spiral pour of water, which takes time to master. Visit Atom if you want to see a pouring masterclass.

dripper allow for a more even extraction when compared to a cone-shaped brewer such as a V60 or a Chemex. Crashes: It takes plenty of will and practice for home brewers to up their pouring game. Might be worth leaving it to the experts. Abbas says: “Flavour-wise, you can expect a sweet cup of coffee with lots of body and notes that are carried in the coffee bean.”

Flavour: The Kalita Wave method is renowned for making a balanced, yet intricately flavoured cup of coffee. Perks: The flat-bottom filter design and the three holes in the bottom of the

Abbas says: “The Aeropress brewer extracts a very clean, and smooth cup of coffee. It does not however do as well in extracting subtle and hidden notes in the coffee.”

Images: Osse Greca Sinare

Aeropress

More information The seasoned baristas at Atom Coffee Hub can demonstrate all of these brewing methods and you get to taste the results. There is also the chance to try out the café’s range of modern brewing gadgets and create your own brew from house beans or finesse your coffee tasting palate at weekend coffee cupping sessions. Where: Mayfair Plaza, Mwai Kibaki Road, Dar es Salaam. When: Monday 7am to 8pm, Tuesday to Friday 8am to 8pm, Saturday and Sunday 9am to 9pm. For more information, visit atomcoffee.co.tz or @atomcoffeehub on Instagram.

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Tanga

IT TAKES TWO TO TANGA If you are looking for the ideal getaway to spend some quality time with your significant other, then consider Tanga. This off-the-beaten-track destination in northeast Tanzania offers footstep-free white sand beaches, soaring mountains, pristine marine parks and towns steeped in Swahili traditions. Here are some suggestions for the perfect romantic escape.

Main image: Uskarp | Shutterstock.com

Wild beach getaways Beach breaks don’t come much more romantic than in the Tanga region. The coastline from Tanga City to Pangani further south is full of unspoiled white stretches of sandy beach that shelve gently into turquoise waters for perfect swimming conditions. There are rustic resorts at

offering beachside banda accommodation shaded among the palm trees. These resorts are among Tanzania’s best-kept secrets so you may find yourself in your own private paradise. As the day ends there are opportunities to ratchet up the romance even further with a sunset trip on a traditional

Peponi, Sange and Ushonge beaches

Swahili dhow or ngalawa sailing boat.

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Tanga

Island adventures The Tanga region’s coastline is dotted with sand islands with some of the country’s most pristine coral reefs built around them. Most hotels around Pangani will be only too happy to organise a boat trip – with picnic lunch included – for you and your partner out to Maziwe Marine Reserve Park, a tiny sand island that only shows itself at low tide. It’s a beautiful spot for sunbathing and snorkelling with a surrounding reef teeming with over 350 fish species and the island itself offering fantastic bird-watching opportunities.

lakeside lazing at this lush forest estate around 40 km distance from Tanga. Opened at the end of the 19th century, it was one of the first German-owned plantations in East Africa and has over time grown rubber, palm oil, coffee and tea, but now it simply showcases its beautiful 1,500-acres of rain forest and rare plants in the East Usambara Mountains. There is a campsite here and campers can explore a host of hiking trails through the forest and then cool off from their exertions with a swim in the beautiful freshwater lake.

Hot springs

Sunset over Tanga Bay

Springs is ideal for any adventurous couple. Locals have been bathing in these natural springs – located about eight km outside Tanga city – for many years and believe the water has healing properties that can cure ailments such as arthritis and skin conditions. It may be a great bonding session for you and your partner, but it is unlikely you’ll want to get too close to each other until you’ve both had a shower with plenty of scented soap as the spring’s sulphur content makes a far from ideal date night perfume.

Pizzeria d’Amore

There are plenty of opportunities

It is definitely at the wild and woolly end of a romantic spa break, but

When putting together a feature on romantic spots in Tanga, we couldn’t ignore a restaurant with

for romantic forest walks and

a trip to the Galanos Sulphur Hot

a name like Pizzeria d’Amore. This

Magoroto Lake

popular restaurant and bar enjoys a breezy coastal location with views across Tanga Bay. The menu is made up of Italian-style pasta and pizza along with chicken, beef and seafood dishes cooked on the grill. Set in lush, palm tree-filled garden and with an attractive upstairs dining terrace, this is a charming place for an intimate meal-for-two.

Beautiful beach house How’s this for a romantic escape? A beautiful cottage snuggled amid towering baobabs and with its own manicured lawn that rolls down to the beach. This paradise is all yours if you rent Tanga Beach House. The air-conditioned property has classic four-poster Swahili beds, a living room and a fully equipped

kitchen. It is located just four km south of the city and there are options to hire bikes or a car to get around, but you will likely feel little inclination to leave. Its pretty shaded verandah full of sofas to sink in and with views out across the ocean to Yambe Island is the perfect spot for some loved-up lounging. For more information, search Tanga Beach House on booking.com

Maziwe Marine Reserve Park, a tiny sand island that only shows itself at low tide. It’s a beautiful spot for sunbathing and snorkelling with a surrounding reef teeming with over 350 fish species (Top) The fresh water Magoroto Lake

Escape into nature

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Best nightclubs

The rhythm of the night:

THE BEST

NIGHT CLUBS across the KFF network

From chic, modern venues with exclusive guest lists to dancing barefoot on the beach, Jahazi points you to where the party’s at once the sun goes down

The bar area at Havoc

Dar es Salaam The country’s biggest city is a place that rarely sleeps with a thriving music scene that has invented its own dance sounds such as bongo flava and singeli. Hitting the clubs here is a great way to soak up the latest tracks that have come from the streets to the sound-systems.

HAVOC This modern, attractive club has expansive views out over the Msasani Peninsula from its location on the fourth floor of the Renaissance Plaza building. It is spacious inside too with a huge neon-lit dance floor that is filled every Friday and Saturday night by cutting edge music from house and guest DJs. The club has recently added a regular live music event, The Black Stage, with musician and actor Ay

Masta and Tanga-born star Mwana Fa among the acts in recent weeks. It also has an excellent restaurant – with table booking available – that keeps serving hungry revellers until 5am. Music: Latest bongo flava, afrobeat hits Dress code: smart casual. Entry: TZS 10,000 Visit: havocnightspot.co.tz @havoctanzania on Instagram

Unguja

(Zanzibar Island) Stone Town has a host of excellent nightclubs sequestered amid its labyrinthine streets, but you’ll also find plenty of beach parties in the north and south-eastern resorts with sound systems making the sand shake.

ELEMENTS

MAISON

THE SECRET GARDEN

The strip of bars and clubs in Oyster Bay’s Haile Selassie Road is the vibrant hub of nightlife in Dar and one of its most popular hangouts is this club lounge and bar, which attracts some of the hottest musical acts around. Up until the early evening, it is a stylish restaurant and bar, but when the nighttime rolls in the club crowd arrives for regular DJ and live music events such as Urban Thursday, Lit Friday. Afro Wave Global and I Love Dar. Recent acts have included South African duo Blaq Diamond and Ghanaian singing sensation Gyakie.

This classy nightclub – tucked away inside the similarly opulent five-star Sea Cliff Hotel in Masaki – with its champagne-hued rooms is one of the city’s most exclusive haunts. There’s a TZS 10,000 entry fee and you won’t be let in unless your attire meets Maison’s “upscale-chic” dress code, but the rewards inside include an amazing sound system presided over by house DJs Mkuzi and Lus as well as an impressive line-up of international guests with recent acts including Nigerian singer-songwriter Patoranking, award-winning Dutch-Asian DJ Akio and South African rapper Shomad Jozi.

If you prefer a more intimate nightclub experience rather than an all-out rave, this historic hideaway in Stone Town may suit. On Fridays, this open-air bar and restaurant set among lushly landscaped hidden ruins, plays host to live music nights. The music is a mix of jazz and taarab, a singular Swahili style of music that dates back to the sultanate era on the archipelago. Taarab’s hypnotic rhythms and middle eastern influences can still be heard in the singeli and bongo flava sounds of modern Tanzania and there is a new generation of musicians keeping the ancient sounds alive. The Secret Garden gigs are a great way to support these emerging artists.

Music: Afrobeats, rap, r’n’b, reggae Dress code: urban cool Entry: From TZS 20,000 for live shows. Visit: @elementstz on Instagram

Music: Rap, r‘n’b, afrobeats, bongo flava Dress code: “Upscale chic” – no sports wear. Entry: TZS 10,000 Visit: maisontz.com

LEVEL 8 The rooftop bar at iconic hotel Hyatt Regency Dar es Salaam, The Kilimanjaro is a feast for the senses. There’s the sight of the incredible 360-degree view of the harbour and the city skyline from its eighth-floor vantage, the taste of its famous cocktails and, on Fridays, the sounds conjured up by the guest DJs to accompany this most romantic of nightclub settings.

Music: Jazz, taarab Dress code: casual Entry: TZS 20,000 (all money goes to artists) Visit: emersonspice.com

Music: Laidback, jazzy beats Dress code: smart casual. Entry: Free Visit: hyatt.com

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Best nightclubs

6 DEGREES SOUTH

DHARMA LOUNGE

CHOLO’S DISCO BAR

This café on the Shanghai waterfront always has an exuberant atmosphere thanks to its weekday 5pm to 7pm happy hours, but when the weekend hits the party moves upstairs to its rooftop bar Up North with its regular Freaky Friday club night.

Located near the State University of Zanzibar in southern Stone Town, this hip, modern club attracts plenty of students as well as a young international crowd. There is graffiti art on the walls, cushions strewn around for lounging between dances, a modern stereo system, a great selection of cocktails behind the bar and a massive dance floor. Entertainment is a mix of DJ nights and live music gigs.

North coast fishing village Nungwi also has its own nightclub right on the sand. Cholo’s is a party magnet on Nungwi Beach, attracting a good mix of locals and tourists for drinking and dancing.

Music: Afrojazz, themed disco Dress code: casual Entry: Ladies free from 9pm to 11pm. Visit: 6degreessouth.co.tz

Music: Modern, independent. Dress code: casual

KENDWA ROCKS Every month when the full moon rises to illuminate the soft white sand on the beach at Kendwa, a village on the northern coast of Unguja, the Kendwa Rocks Beach Hotel gets set to party.

The event – usually on a Saturday and as close to the full moon as possible – involves acrobats, fire eaters, beach barbecues and an international crowd of revellers dancing to the pulsating beat of a massive sound system. The rest of the month, revellers can dance the night away Monday through Saturday at the hotel’s lounge bar, The Rocks. Music: House, afrobeats, reggae Dress code: come as you are Entry: On the door or book in advance at hotel website. Visit: kendwarocks.com

Music: Chart hits, afrobeats, reggae Dress code: come as you are Entry: Free

Tanga The Tanga nightlife revolves around a cluster of lively bars between the Misitu and Kano area between the railway bus station. CLUB LA CASA CHICA Located in one of Tanga’s more historic buildings is this cosy, welcoming nightclub. DOLPHIN INN This hotel in the centre of Tanga has a lovely bar and terrace which hosts club nights every weekend. MERIDIAN RESTAURANT Every Wednesday and at weekends, this Tanga restaurant hosts disco nights on its attractive terrace.

Humpback whales in Zanzibar

WHALE-WATCHING How to get the best experience Humpback whales head to the warm waters of Zanzibar every July to November to breed as part of an annual thousands-of-miles migration. Marine biologist and general manager of luxury west coast hotel Zanzi Resort Ekaterina Kalashnikova is lucky enough to have got close to these gigantic nomads many times as part of her studies and here she shares advice on making the most of the season’s sightings.

frica has long been a cradle where intricate relationships between humans and the nature exist. Tanzania with its unparalleled biodiversity attracts travellers from all over the world. Among the country’s fascinating natural wonders this beautiful country has to offer is the Great East African migration across the Serengeti, but we also have an equivalent in the marine realm. The annual migration of humpback whales is a spectacular event that can be witnessed in Tanzanian waters. These majestic marine nomads cover thousands of miles from

grounds, where they take advantage of the food resources of vast swarms of krill that feed on the phytoplankton blooms, to low-latitude winter breeding grounds, where they mate, give birth, nurse, and then return.

high-latitude summer feeding

streams of vapour due to difference

First sightings From June to December fishermen, marine enthusiasts, and anyone with a sharp eye can see the ocean surface being broken by powerful blows of migrating humpback whales. A huge puff of mist in the air, which can reach three metres in height, is a whales’ explosive exhalation which forms vertical

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Humpback whales in Zanzibar in temperatures in the animal’s lungs and outside air. It can be seen hundreds of metres away and is a main clue for locating whales on the water. If you’re looking for these gentle giants, don’t wait for a tail or a dorsal fin to appear on the surface as it’s not that easy to get so close to the animals and splashes may just be a wave breaking in the wind or against the cliffs. There may also be other cetaceans that are feeling jumpy or fish leaping out of the water creating splashes, which may be mistaken for the whale’s presence. But the blow is unmistakable and once you have seen it many more wonders will follow. You’ll see the famous humps – the whale’s arching back when it’s deep diving – the raised flukes, the pectoral fins slapping and the spectacular breaching. These extremely acrobatic species are utter joy to watch. Since 2017 I have been trying to get a tiny bit closer to humpback whales in order to understand more about their lives: which sub-population do they belong to, what exactly they’re coming here for, when, for how long and which routes they use. When the first sighting of a season is being announced my heart always skips a beat.

painful death from whalers. The whaling industry severely depleted numbers of humpbacks by hunting, prompting a hunting ban in 1966 and their inclusion on the endangered species list in 1970 by the International Whaling Commission. Arguments against whaling, however, have been mostly (and shockingly) based on economic grounds, rather than humanitarian notion of intrinsic animal rights. Illegal hunting continued up to 1973, and as a result some of the sub populations had plummeted to less than 5 per cent of the pre-exploitation population size.

Whale watching on the rise

The months in between the seasons seems to drag until I hear precious news from the fishermen’s network. Then the boat is loaded, equipment checked, and fingers tightly crossed for good weather. Off we go to get a tiny bit closer to the magic of these marine nomads’ lives, which we know so little about. After a couple of hours of intense searching we see a spout. “There she blows!” – a call that links present with the dark past when this excited

According to the IUCN Red List Species data the current global humpback whale population size is estimated to be 135,000 individuals, with a mature population size of approximately 84,000. These numbers sounds optimistic, but still present just a tiny fraction of the initial abundance. Conservationists around the globe are striving to understand whether populations of humpbacks are bouncing back from the brink. But given many uncertainties of historical records, including underestimated pre-whaling population sizes and under-reported and incomplete catch data from industrial whaling it is hard to determine the success of the overall population recovery, which, moreover, may not represent the recovery of each of the sub-populations individually. Relatively recently the same whales that were loved and appreciated by Tanzanian fishermen, and only considered as a resource of meat and oil when washed onto the shore, were hunted and killed in their far-south feeding grounds in Antarctica. If whales think, and

cry would doom the creatures to a

they probably do, they may be

‘There she blows’

Humpback with pectoral fins above the water

wondering what is going on in the minds of humans. Nowadays, countries worldwide outline their Blue Economic strategy, an economic emphasis is being placed on the concept of sustainability, replacing commercial whaling with whale watching. Whale watching is generally on the increase worldwide with more people getting captivated by whales and asking more questions. Marine enthusiasts and ocean lovers want to know when is the best time to see them in Tanzanian waters and when chances of an encounter are higher. Well, humpbacks’ migration patterns are quite sophisticated. When southern hemisphere humpbacks are in tropical waters (southern hemisphere winter), the northern hemisphere whales are feeding at high latitudes (northern hemisphere summer).

Images courtesy of @Pavel Kalashnikov

This situation reverses after 6 months, when the seasons invert. Each year from June to December humpbacks are observed around the archipelago of Zanzibar, along Tanzanian coastline in the Zanzibar and Pemba channels. Sighting suggest the migration peak is usually is between August and September, however migratory timing varies with age, sex and reproductive status, so migration peaks may be different for different reproductive classes. While there is no dedicated and well-regulated whale watching industry in Tanzania yet, there are chances of sightings with most marine tour operators (and even from the ferries – keep your eyes peeled on your journey today!) Almost all diving and fishing boats may potentially encounter a whale while out in the water. Some operators, like Scuba Fish Dive Shop,

can provide additional value to their guests through their collaboration with marine conservation organizations. Safari Blue is another famous operator which is lucky to take its guests to the beautiful conservation area of Menai Bay where whales are a regular sight.

Sights from shore It is also possible to watch whales without leaving dry land (perfect for those who want to avoid seasickness), and is actually the best way as it reduces the likelihood of whales being disturbed. And Zanzibar provides some great locations where whales may stay for few days allowing guests enjoying their playful behaviour from the comfort of their own hotel. Properties such as Fumba Lodge and Promised Land Lodge provide unique viewing opportunities from the shore. Whale watching could potentially be very beneficial for both people and whales. It allows the viewing of whales in their natural habitat and learn more, may serve as a platform for scientists to collect data and provides economic benefits to operators and local communities. However in order to maintain sustainability it is crucial that this activity is well regulated and is of high international standards where safety (of both humans and whales) and good ethics are paramount. While regulations and guidelines governing whale watching in Tanzania have not yet been developed, there is a simple internationally recognized code of conduct that anyone who have been lucky to encounter a whale should observe. This includes keeping your distance (at least 200 metres from the boat to the whale), never approaching whales head-on, not moving between or separating individuals, maintaining

Each year from June to December humpbacks are observed around the archipelago of Zanzibar, along Tanzanian coastline in the Zanzibar and Pemba channels a steady direction and slow speed, never swimming with whales or trying to touch them and being very careful while mothers with calves are around as they are particularly sensitive to disturbance.

Start of the season

Gentle giant: the humpback whale

To increase the value of whale watching it is essential to educate the public, from a scientific perspective, about whales and their ocean habitat. Despite, our human tendency to anthropomorphize whales, we probably underestimate the complexity of their lives. Very few of us understand how highly cognitive and social these sentient emotional beings are with their complex social bonds and culture. As the season starts, I can’t stop automatically scrutinizing the horizon in the hope of seeing the first blows that signal the humpbacks’ return. I hope you join me on the lookout.

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Top five

PAJE

REASONS TO VISIT

Image: Rosa van Ederen

Paje’s magnificent strip of white sand is made for beach breaks that stay long in the memory, but the laidback village on Zanzibar’s south east coast offers far more than just a place to soak up the sun. Here are five reasons to pick Paje.

Kitesurfing With its steady winds and flat, shallow lagoons, Paje offers excellent kitesurfing conditions. Enthusiasts of the water sport head here during the two trade wind seasons from June to September and December to March and the kiters’ easy-going attitude is a good fit with the humble, laidback villagers. Unlike many other beach spots on the east coast, you can kite surf all day in Paje as high tide fills the inner lagoon while you can find similarly perfect flatwater, knee-deep conditions at low tide in the outer lagoon. The calm, shallow conditions are ideal for beginners while more experienced kiters can seek out freestyle thrills with high tide breaks over the coral reefs.

Diving Zanzibar’s east coast is protected by a coral reef about 1 km off shore which offers excellent diving opportunities. There are a number of dive centres on Paje Beach that will take experienced divers out to the sites or offer PADI open-water courses to prepare people for their first underwater adventures. The nearby Dongwe and Bweju areas offer gentle reef dives as well as more challenging dives. Kizimkazi, a fishing village about 20 minutes from Paje, has a dive location with regular sightings of dolphins, a range of sharks, rays and even whale sharks during their migratory season. Any days too calm for kitesurfing are going to be ideal diving days with the prime time to be found between October and March when the winds start to flatten.

Seaweed soap When you are wandering Paje beach at low tide, seaweed farmers wading out into the water to tend to their crop is a familiar sight. Seaweed farming has been big business in Paje for more than three decades and an important source of income and independence for women, who make up the vast majority of farmers. Standing out in the shallows in their sky-blue smocks will be the mamas of Mwani (mwanizanzibar.com). This local company distinguishes itself in not exporting its harvested seaweed – there is a global demand for its use in medicine, animal feed, fertilizer and even as a biofuel – but rather using it to make nutrient-rich soap and skincare products at its centre in Paje village. You can see the products being made by hand on tours of the centre, where you can also buy and browse the Mwani range of products. A number of hotels and outlets in the village also stock Mwani products.

Cycling Paje tends to be spared the crowds that head to the beach resorts in the north of Unguja and the relative calm of the south-east coast also means bikefriendly quieter roads and unspoilt wild nature to explore. Hotel, restaurant and social space Paje by Night (pajebynight. net) provides bikes and tours, including a challenging off-road trip into nearby Jozani Forest, home to the endemic Zanzibar red colobus monkey, as well as more sedate rides along the laidback coast with stops including the historic village of Makunduchi with its crumbling colonial buildings. There are also organised cycle tours of Paje village itself with plenty of white sand to ride on at low tide as well as coastal caves and forest to explore.

Nightlife While its position on Unguja’s east coast means it misses out on the island’s most spectacular sunsets, Paje still has plenty to entertain when evening comes. Its coastline is peppered with excellent bars, restaurants and hotels that host regular events, especially during the kitesurfing seasons. With its lounge chairs spread on the sand, beach bar B4 (b4beach.club) is an excellent spot for an evening chill-out and once a week it hosts a movie night. New Jambo Bungalows (@jambobarpaje on Facebook), a hostel with its own kite school, organises beach parties every Friday while the Red Monkey Lodge (redmonkeybeachlodge. com), a 10-minute taxi ride away in neighbouring village Jambiani, runs live music event Sunday Jam Sessions featuring local and international acts.

Paje’s coastline is peppered with excellent bars, restaurants and hotels that host regular events, especially during the kitesurfing seasons

Beach service Image: Nowaczyk / Shutterstock.com

Windswept Paje is ideal for kitesurfing Image: Venera Salman / Shutterstock.com

Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries book online at azammarine.com

Swahili story time / Wakati wa hadithi

MVUMILIVU… na Joseph Shaluwa

Jahazi presents another exclusive short story by Tanzanian Kiswahili author Joseph Shaluwa. ‘Mvumilivu...’ centres on couple Edo and Lilian, both university students in Dar and very much in love. However, Edo has to learn a lesson in patience. Read on.

DO aligeuka tena. Kwa mara ya tatu anafanya hivyo wakati akielekea bafuni. Safari hii alimwangalia Lilian kwa macho yaliyojaa ubembe wa huba. Alihisi moyo wake ukienda mbio kama saa mbovu! Lilian alikuwa mbichi kabisa. Mwanamke mrembo kuliko neno lenyewe. Kwa namna Lilian alivyokuwa akimwangalia Edo aliyekuwa akisitasita kuingia bafuni, alionekana dhahiri hakuwa na mpango wa kubadili maamuzi yake. Moyoni alionekana wazi kusimamia alichopanga. Hakuwa tayari kuyumbishwa! Kweli alimpenda sana Edo, lakini isingekuwa rahisi kwake, kutokana na upendo huo avunje agano lake. Hapo Edo naye alikuwa na mawazo yake, alijaribu kufikiria ni kwa namna gani angemlaghai Lilian akubali kubadili maamuzi yake. Kwa hakika ilikuwa kazi ngumu. Kazi ngumu kwelikweli. Pengine ingekuwa rahisi zaidi tairi la gari kupita juu ya mguu wa binadamu bila kuuvunja kuliko jambo lililokuwa mbele yao kufanyika. Msimamo thabiti! Lilian alikuwa amekaa kitandani, amevaa gauni zuri, refu la rangi ya buluu ya kung’aa. Tangu ameingia katika chumba cha hoteli hiyo na Edo, saa mbili zilizopita, hakuonekana kuwa na wazo la kutoa nguo zake. Ni kama alipanga kulala nazo. Ahadi ya wawili hawa ni kutokukutana kimwili hadi watakapofunga pingu za maisha.

Ni msimamo ambao Lilian alijiwekea siku zote. Si kwamba walikutana siku hiyo... la hasha! Hawa ni wapenzi wa siku nyingi; uhusiano wao sasa umefikisha miaka mitatu. Kwa muda wote huo, hakuna siku waliyowahi kukutana kwenye uwanja wa huba. Lilian pamoja na kuwa na umri wa miaka 22, bado alikuwa hajawahi kumjua mwanaume. Bado alikuwa amefungwa kwenye makaratasi. Kichwani mwake alisema: “Mtu pekee ambaye anapaswa kuchukua zawadi hii ni mume wangu pekee. Siwezi kumwamini Edo, hata kama nampenda.

“Edo atakula vinono vyangu ikiwa atatimiza ahadi yetu ya ndoa. Najua tunasoma, acha tutengeneze maisha yetu kwanza, baada ya hapo atanifaidi tu. Mimi ni wake tu.” Au ataniacha? Lilian akawaza tena. “Mwenzetu vipi? Mbona umeganda hapo mlangoni?” Lilian akamwuliza Edo ambaye bado hakuwa na dalili za kutaka kuingia bafuni. “Naingia mama, kwani kuna ubaya gani mtu kumwangalia mpenzi wake?” akajibu Edo. “Hakuna ubaya kwa kweli, si vibaya mtu kumwangalia mpenzi wake. Nakubaliana na wewe lakini muda baby. Bado hatujala mpaka sasa hivi.” “Najua...njoo basi tuoge wote ili tuokoe muda.” “Edo wewe! Acha utani wako bwana... unajua kitakachotokea. Utaniudhi sasa...” akasema Lilian kwa sauti ambayo haikueleweka ilikuwa ya ukali au kudeka. Haraka Edo akashika kitasa cha mlango wa bafuni. Akakinyonga kwa nguvu, kisha akasukuma mlango. Akaingia. Muda mfupi baadaye kilichosikika ndani ya bafu lile ilikuwa ni maji yakitiririka kutoka kwenye bomba la mvua.

Bado Edo alikuwa anapanga mashambuzi.

Mlango ulifunguka. Edo akatoka bafuni akiwa bado ana maji mwilini mwake. Hakuwa na nguo yoyote zaidi ya taulo kiunoni. Akatembea taratibu hadi ilipokuwa kabati ya kujipambia. Ilikuwa siku ngumu sana kwao, ni siku ambayo walikubaliana kulala pamoja kwa vile tu, siku inayofuata, Edo alikuwa na safari ya kwenda Malaysia kwa ajili ya masomo. Wazazi wake waliamua kumpeleka nchini humo kutafuta Shahada ya Uzamili. Hiyo ilimaanisha kuwa, Lilian angebaki pekee nchini kwa muda wote huo wa masomo. Mipango ilikuwa mizuri, Edo asingerejea nchini mpaka atakapomaliza masomo yake, maana wazazi wake walikuwa wameshamtafutia kazi ya muda kwa kipindi chote atakachokuwa likizo na siku za mapumziko. Ratiba yake ilikuwa imebana kabisa. Walikuwa pamoja kwa ajili ya kuagana. Ahadi ikiendelea kutunziana heshima kwa kipindi chote hicho. Ndivyo makubaliano yao yalivyokuwa. Edo hakujali, kama vile hapakuwa na mtu. Alijitoa taulo na kuanza kujikausha maji mwilini. Baada ya hapo akachukua manukato ya ngozi, akajipulizia mwili, kisha akatoa nguo na kuvaa. Lilian alifumba macho. Aliona haya kumwangalia Edo. Alijua wazi kama angeendelea kumwangalia ni jambo gani lingejitokeza. Hilo alilijua kwa hakika kabisa. Edo alitumia dakika mbili tu kujikamilisha. Akamfuata Lilian na kumshika mikono... “Wewe, yaani umefumba macho kweli?” akauliza. “Ndiyo!” “Kwa nini?” “Wewe hujui? Sitaki matatizo bwana.” “Nenda basi na wewe ukaoge.” “Nitafanya hivyo kwa sharti moja tu.” “Sharti gani?” “Kama utaondoka na kwenda mgahawani, uniache mimi nioge peke

yangu na nijiandae kabisa, nikiwa tayari nakufuata.” Edo akatulia kwa muda, akamwangalia Lilian kwa macho yaliyokuwa yanafikisha ujumbe fulani, kisha akamjibu: “Inamaana huniamini kiasi hicho?” Lilian akatulia kwa muda akitafakari. Kama ni mtego aliwekwa kwenye mtego mkubwa sana. Akasema kivivu, “Nakuamini mpenzi.” “Haya nenda kaoge.” Lilian akaingia bafuni. Ile amefunga tu mlango, Edo aliusukuma haraka na kuingia mle bafuni. Lilian akataka kupiga kelele, Edo akamwonyesha ishara atulie. “Mpenzi kwa sababu nilishaamua kukusubiri, nitasubiri tu. Nimeingia humu bafuni ili kukuondoa hofu tu mpenzi. Usione kuwa mimi ni mwanaume nisiye na uvumilivu. Nakupenda sana kutoka moyoni mwangu. Na kwa sababu hiyo ninakuahidi nitakusubiri mpaka siku ya ndoa,” akasema Edo. Lilian hakuamini. Machozi yakimtoka machoni mwake, alimsogelea Edo na kujitupa kifuani mwake. Akasema, “Kweli unanipenda mpenzi wangu. Nakuahidi sitakuvunjia heshima yako. Nitakuwa na wewe siku zote za maisha yangu.” “Nafurahi kusikia hivyo mpenzi.” “Edo naomba sasa unipishe nioge,” akasema Lilian. Edo akatii. Akatoka nje ya bafu lile na kurudi chumbani. Moyoni alikiri alipata mke sahihi wa maisha yake. “Mvumilivu hula mbivu... nitavumilia tu,” akawaza kichwani mwake. Akaamua kwenda mgahawani kuagiza chakula, wakati Lilian akiwa bafuni anaoga.

“Unapenda nini?” “Wewe umeagiza ya nini?” “Samaki, sato.” “Uko sahihi kabisa mpenzi.” Mazungumzo yao yakabadilika, sasa ikawa ni kuhusu maisha yao yajayo na namna ya kudumisha uhusiano wao. “Mimi nakwenda chuoni, najua kuwa mbali na wewe kunaweza kutuweka kwenye majaribu mazito, lakini tafadhali naomba ujitahidi sana kwa kadiri uwezavyo,” akasema Edo. “Edo kipenzi changu usiwe na wasiwasi na hilo. Kama nimeweza kuvumilia siku zote hizo, kwanini nishindwe leo hii?” “Vishawishi ni vingi mpenzi wangu.” “Najua lakini haiwezi kuwa sababu ya mimi kukusaliti. Niliamua kwa dhati kukutunzia heshima hii kabla sijakutana na wewe. Na sasa nimekutana na wewe. Nakuahidi nitaendelea kujitunza mpaka siku ya ndoa yetu. Waswahili wanasema mvumilivu hula mbivu. Basi subiria mbivu zako mpenzi,” akasema Lilian akitabasamu. Edo naye akatabasamu!

Edo alifika mgahawani na kuagiza chakula. Akabaki hapo akimsubiri mpenzi wake, Lilian. Dakika 20 baadaye, alifika mezani kwake. Akajikaribisha kwenye kiti. “Umeagiza nini?” akauliza Lilian. “Nafurahi kula ugali na makange.” “Makange ya nini?”

JOSEPH SHALUWA Joseph has written 14 books now, including Chotara and Red Wino, which are available for order. Call 0786 224191 or email joeshaluwa@gmail.com For more information on his work, visit his Facebook page @Joseph Shaluwa @joeshaluwa on Instagram.

Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries book online at azammarine.com

Our fleet Experience the finest, modern and swift ferry services in Tanzania

Our Catamarans We have a fleet of eight vessels with a speed range of 25 knots up to 40 knots allowing passengers to be in Zanzibar from Dar es Salaam within 1 hour and 20 minutes.

Kilimanjaro VII

Kilimanjaro VI

Kilimanjaro V

Kilimanjaro IV

Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries book online at azammarine.com

Travel information For further information and to book visit www.azammarine.com

Our services Onboard hospitality services:

WiFi Free Internet on board all our catamarans

Entertainment Library of movies and TV shows to watch

Snacks Enjoy a cup of coffee, tea or Juice

VIP Lounge Luxurious Lounge Dedicated to VIP and Royal class passengers.

Need to know

25 Kgs

Permitted Luggage is 25 kgs per person. Any additional will be chargeable. Consumption and carriage of alcoholic beverages is highly restricted. No refund policy on missed travel date or time. In case of cancellation, office should be informed at least two hours prior to departure. Online bookings are not considered

Travel tips

Ferry schedules

All foreign passengers (not Tanzanian citizens) are required to carry their passports when traveling between the islands of Zanzibar and mainland Tanzania. Foreign passengers are required to pay for their tickets in US$. We do however accept payments in UK Pound Sterling (GBP) and Euro (€). All other currencies are not acceptable. Foreigners with resident permits or exemption certificates are allowed to pay for their fares in Tanzanian Shillings and will be charged the normal fares applicable for citizens. Tanzanian citizens are encouraged to carry some identification to prove their citizenship. We recommend all passengers to buy their tickets from our offices in Dar es Salaam, Zanzibar or Pemba and from our approved travel agents throughout the country. Please do not buy tickets from people in the streets claiming to be our agents.

DAR - ZNZ Dar es Salaam to Zanzibar 7 AM 9.30 AM 12.30 PM 4 PM

ZNZ - DAR Zanzibar to Dar es Salaam 7AM 9.30AM 12.30PM 4PM

ZNZ - PEM Zanzibar to Pemba 7.30AM (WED, THU, SAT, SUN)

PEM - ZNZ Pemba to Zanzibar 7.30 AM (THU, FRI, SUN) 9AM (TUE)

PEM - TAN Pemba to Tanga 2.30PM (SUN)

TAN - PEM Tanga to Pemba 11PM (MONDAY)

confirmed until a payment has been made.

Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries book online at azammarine.com

Our destinations Let us take you to Tanzania’s coastal cities and the islands of Zanzibar

Dar es Salaam This fast-expanding city – population four million and counting – is Tanzania’s commercial and cultural hub. Traces of Dar’s beginnings as a Zaramo fishing village can be seen at the Kivukoni front where dhows dock at dawn laden with the night’s catch for the bustling fish market, but now gleaming skyscrapers dominate the skyline. This modern metropolis rocks around the clock with a vibrant music, food and art scene, but if you prefer to relax there are a string of serene beaches in easy reach as well as the nature escapes of Pugu Hills and Mikumi National Park.

waters while its vibrant and unique Swahili heritage will fascinate culture vultures and its famous spices perfume the air and flavour the food. Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries delivers you to one of the island’s greatest attractions, Stone Town, the capital’s ancient port. Here you can explore its maze of bazaars, cafés, mosques and mansions that are vestiges of the island’s pivotal role in trading along the East African coast.

Pemba

Unguja, the largest island of the Zanzibar archipelago, is a treasure trove for tourists. Those who snorkel, scuba or windsurf will

As its Arabic name, which translates as “the green island”, suggests, Pemba has a lush landscape, combining the cultivated and the wild. There are plantations of banana, coconut and cloves as well as expanses of mangrove forest. With far fewer hotels than its Zanzibar big brother Unguja, 80 km south, it provides an exclusive escape for the adventurous traveller with remote attractions including the dense canopy of monkey-magnet Ngezi Forest and the private paradises of isolated sandbanks. Its white sand beaches are ringed on all sides by coral reefs which offer some of east Africa’s best snorkelling and diving – with marine life including humpback

love its reef-protected cerulean

whales in July and August.

Zanzibar

Dar es Salaam waterfront Gideon Ikigai / Shutterstock.com

Pemba Island

Tanga When its sisal farming was in full flight, Tanga was earmarked as the capital of Tanzania, but it now offers more low-key charms. It still has a busy port – the second largest in the country – with our ferries crossing to Pemba – and plenty of attractions for the visitor. Its history as an Arab trading post before the Germans and British vied for colonial control in its sisal

Contacts Bookings: azammarine.com +255 22 2123324 info@azammarine.com Follow us: @azammarine kilimanjaro fastferries officialazammarine

Azam Marine and Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries Opposite St. Joseph Cathedral Sokoine Drive, PO Box 2517 Dar es Salaam, Tanzania heyday has left a town with some fascinatingly eclectic architecture, especially the gothic Bombo Hospital. The ocean offers great dhow sailing, there is a rich coral reef for diving enthusiasts and Tanga’s proximity to the Saadani National Park makes it the only city with a wildlife sanctuary incorporating a marine park in the region. Other nearby attractions include the Amboni Caves and the Swahili

Email: info@azammarine.com www.azammarine.com Tel: +255 22 212 3324

Tanga

trading outpost of Pangani.

Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries book online at azammarine.com

Routes For further information and to book visit www.azammarine.com

Tanga

Pemba Island

Wete

Korogwe

Mkoani

Zanzibar

Zanzibar Mkokotoni

Stone Town Bagamoyo Kibaha Kichwele National Forest

Dar es Salaam

KiwengwaPongwe Forest

Chwaka Bay

Stone Town Jozani Chwaka Bay National Park

Chumbe Island Coral Park

Kiwani Bay

Zala Park

Menai Bay Conservation Area

Pemba Island Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries book online at azammarine.com

Routes For further information and to book visit www.azammarine.com

wengwaongwe orest

Tanga

Pemba Island

Wete

Korogwe

Mkoani Chwaka Bay

Zanzibar Mkokotoni Jozani Chwaka Bay National Park

Stone Town

Bagamoyo Kibaha

Zala Park

Dar es Salaam

Pemba Island

Mkoani

Bookings: azammarine.com +255 22 2123324 info@azammarine.com 48

JAHAZI issue 04 - Kilimanjaro Fast Ferries, AZAM Marine

Articles inside

ASILI FESTIVAL - A hip-hop celebration

WHALE-WATCHING

IT TAKES TWO TO TANGA

5 REASONS TO VISIT PAJE

RAWAN DAKIK - A Tanzanian on top of the world

THE BREW FOR YOU - Atom Coffee Hub

The BEST NIGHTCLUBS across the KFF network

NEEMA CRAFTS - New shop in Dar