Flightlink, Zebra Stripes, issue 4 by Land & Marine Publications Ltd.

| Free inflight magazine | December to February 2025 | Issue 4

Northern Tanzania

Geographical extremes and abundant wildlife

IN THIS ISSUE

The best mountain hideaways to stay in

Nairobi here we come: Nine reasons to visit

The beautiful birds of Jozani Forest

Foreword

Welcome onboard Flightlink We’re delighted to have you join us on this flight. At Flightlink, your safety and comfort are paramount. Our dedicated team works tirelessly to ensure a smooth and enjoyable journey. We’re proud of our strong on-time performance record and strive to maintain the highest standards of punctuality. As we continue to grow, we’re excited to share some exciting updates: Expanded fleet In December 2024, we added our third ATR72 aircraft to our fleet. New routes and frequencies In November 2024 we introduced daily flights to Pemba and Zanzibar. Starting December 15, 2024, we’ll also be offering an extra daily flight on the ArushaZanzibar route, meaning we now connect the two cities five times each day. The move makes us the largest operator in terms of capacity out of Arusha, Tanzania’s tourism circuit hub. New route to Nairobi Beginning June 1, 2025, we are thrilled to announce a new route connecting Arusha and Serengeti to Nairobi. This new route, combined with the opening of the new

2 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

terminal in Arusha, will provide seamless connectivity to a vibrant destination. New Arusha terminal The new terminal in Arusha will streamline the travel experience by incorporating customs and immigration facilities, enabling direct regional flights from the heart of Tanzania’s tourism circuit. We would like to express our sincere gratitude to our loyal customers and valued partners, including our travel and tour agents and Destination Management Companies worldwide for their continued support and trust. Your business is essential to our growth and success. Wishing you a wonderful holiday season and a happy and prosperous New Year. Happy landings, Munawer Dhirani Managing Director and Accountable Manager

NORTHERN TANZANIA Geographical extremes and abundant animals 32

Contents

Issue 4 | December to February 2025

FOREWORD

SEAWEED BY NUMBERS

AWARD-WINNING SERENGETI National Park named best in Africa at World Travel Awards

DAR ES SALAAM STREET FOOD A true taste of Tanzania

11 NEED-TO-SEE NAIROBI Nine reasons to visit the capital of Kenya

14 SPORTS TOURISM IN ZANZIBAR Ideas for active adventures

18 CAFFEINE HITS

35 PEMBA'S SECRET BEACHES

Best places for coffee

21 BIRDS OF ZANZIBAR Exploring Jozani Forest

25 MOUNTAIN HIDEAWAYS High-life accommodation

29 CHAKE-CHAKE Reasons to visit Pemba's capital

30 SACRED FORESTS Hug a tree in Kenya

32 BUCKET-LIST TANZANIA The Northern safari circuit

Five of the best

36 BEST HOTEL POOLS 40 FLIGHTLINK LOGO 41 WHAT'S NEW AT FLIGHTLINK 43 EARN YOUR STRIPES QUIZ 44 OUR DESTINATIONS The Flightlink network

46 ROUTE MAP 47 OUR FLEET / CONTACTS 48 REASONS TO FLY WITH US

www.flightlink.co.tz Mezzanine Floor‚ Oyster Pearl Galleria‚ Chole Rd Masaki‚ PO Box 2858, Dar es Salaam‚ Tanzania. For the latest flights, information and to book online, visit: www.flightlink.co.tz Reservations: dar-reservations@flightlink.co.tz E: customerservice@flightlink.co.tz Marketing: Yokohama Nonaka T: +255 782 35 44 48/49/50 M: +255 787 88 88 51 E: yoko@flightlink.co.tz

Zebra Stripes is published by: Land & Marine Publications (Tanzania) Ltd 5th floor, Josam House plot Number 16, Mikocheni Area Along Coca-Cola Road, Dar es Salaam T: +255 686 118 816 Head Office: Land & Marine Publications Ltd 6 The Square, Ipswich, Suffolk, IP5 3SL, UK T: +44 (0)1206 752902 E: publishing@landmarine.com www.landmarine.com

flightlinktz

Editor: Mark Edwards E: markedwards@landmarine.com Advertising sales: Godfrey S. Urassa M: +255 (0) 686 118 816 (WhatsApp) E: godfreyurassa@landmarine.com Printed by Jamana Printers Ltd, Dar es Salaam The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication. No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions. ©2024 Land & Marine Publications Ltd.

Flightlink.co.tz | 3

BY NUMBERS

Seaweed by numbers The shallow coastal waters of Zanzibar and Pemba are dotted with seaweed farms, boosting the islands’ economy and environment. Here are some facts and figures about this sustainable superfood.

150,000

25-29°C

This is the ideal water temperature parameter for growing seaweed. Unfortunately, temperatures in Zanzibar are now rising above 31°C due to global warming, which is hindering seaweed production.

23,000

According to the Zanzibar Ministry of Trade, Industry & Marketing, this is the number of people working within the country’s seaweed-farming industry with the majority – around 90% – being women operating on small-scale farms.

4 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

The number of people that benefit indirectly from the seaweed industry in Zanzibar.

Eat just this amount of dried seaweed and you’ll fortify your body with one of the best dietary sources of iodine – a mineral that is important in boosting the immune system. Superfood seaweed is also packed with vitamins A, D, E, C and B.

The amount of seaweed produced in Zanzibar at its peak in 2015. In 2020 those levels had fallen to 8.8 thousand metric tonnes. There are number of schemes in place on the archipelago to counter environmental issues and optimise farming methods to return the industry to its peak.

The year the commercial cultivation of seaweed began on Unguja (Zanzibar Island).

90%

One teaspoon

16,700 metric tonnes

1989

The percentage of Zanzibar’s marine export products that come from seaweed farming.

US$

8 million

The income generated for Zanzibar by seaweed production at its peak.

30,000

The number of known species of seaweed across the world’s oceans

SERENGETI

Serengeti Is once again named Africa's Leading National Park

Serengeti was named Africa’s Leading National Park at the 2024 World Travel Awards (WTA). It is the sixth year in a row that Northern Tanzania’s world-famous ‘endless plains’ has won the prestigious award. This year’s announcement was made at the WTA awards ceremony held in Mombasa, with Serengeti emerging victorious in a strong category with competing parks including the Masai Mara in Kenya, Kruger National Park in South Africa and Etosha National Park in Namibia. Here’s a gallery of images that give a flavour of the awardwinning wonders that await you.

6 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

FLY WITH US TO SERENGETI Three flights every day from Dar, three flights each day from Arusha, three daily flights from Zanzibar. To book, visit flightlink. co.tz/en

Flightlink.co.tz | 7

STREET FOOD

STREET FOODS TO TRY IN DAR ES SALAAM

For a true taste of Tanzania’s commercialCaption capital tuck into its ???? tantalising street food. Roadside grills all over Dar es Salaam sizzle the city’s most emblematic snack: the seasoned flamed-grilled meat of nyama choma, but it does pay to investigate some of the other offerings for food-on-the-go. Here are six standouts that’ll make you glad you bypassed the barbecue. 8 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

STREET FOOD

Zanzibar Mix

Mandazi

As is common in Swahili cuisine, this hearty dish is inspired by Indian cooking but given its own Tanzanian twist. Zanzibar Mix (also known as Urojo) is a curry soup loaded with all kinds of street-food favourites such as cubes of mishkaki meat, fried lentil bhajias, fried potatoes, crunchy chickpea balls and given some extra crunch with a handful of cassava of potato chips. It is all then topped with a spoon of fresh coconut chutney and a pile of hot pili pili sauce. Bring your appetite for this one.

Start you day right with this popular street food indulgence. Mandazi are golden dumplings of fried dough, a kind of breakfast doughnuts. Unlike most doughnuts, the sweetness is rather subtle with just a light dusting of powdered sugar refined with spices such as cardamom, coconut or cinnamon. For the best tasting mandazi, pick a stall where a fresh batch of the dough triangles are fried in hot oil in front of you to ensure the freshest flavour. Taking in the heady aroma as they sizzle is part of the Tanzanian experience, which you can complete by wolfing down the mandazi with a hot cup of chai or coffee.

Chipsi mayai Everyone loves French fries. Everyone loves omelettes. Merge them together into one dish and you are certain to have a winner. So, it proved when chipsi mayai – a fusion of French fries and a batter made from eggs, onions, and spices, and then fried in hot oil until crispy – was first introduced on the streets of Dar. It has gone on to become a comfort food classic across the country. Typically served with kachumbari (a fresh tomato and onion salad) and given a kick with some hot sauce or chili peppers, this is a quick and filling dish.

Pani Puri Another India-influenced dish that has become a popular street food dish in Dar is pani puri. The spicy

snack consists of a ‘puri’, the hollowed-out breaded shell, into which is stuffed chutney, masala, potatoes, onions and chickpeas before it is deep fried and then filled to the brim with spiced water (‘pani’). Open wide, eat the whole thing at once, and

Flightlink.co.tz | 9

STREET FOOD

feel the flavours and textures explode in your mouth.

Vitambua These small pancake-like rice cakes are melt-in-your-mouth delicious. Flavoured with coconut and cardamom, they should be golden and crunchy on the outside and have a fluffy centre. Perfect with tea

in the morning, these hugely popular snacks are considered fuel food to stoke up Dar es Salaam residents for another day of hustle in the city.

Cassava chips The brigade of beach bars along Coco Beach – one of Dar’s most popular hang-outs day and night – will all sell you plates of fried cassava chips to enjoy. A healthier alternative than potato chips, this crispy snack is a good source of

fibre and contains vitamins and minerals like calcium, potassium, and vitamin C.

The Coco Beach version is also super fresh with the waferthin slices of the starchy root vegetable fried in a pan of hot oil before your eyes. This is a Dar favourite and a very affordable snack with views of the Indian Ocean thrown in for free.

10 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

Caption ????

Melnikov Dmitriy / Shutterstock.com

Nairobi

Reasons to visit

Nine reasons to visit

NAIROBI With Flightlink set to add the Kenyan capital to its destination network in June, Zebra Stripes has some motivation for those thinking of visiting East Africa’s largest city.

IndustryAndTravel / Shutterstock.com

1. A safari in the city Nairobi is the world’s only city to have a national park just ten minutes from its centre. Nairobi National Park is fenced in on three sides, but its open southern boundary allows migrating wildlife to move between the park and the Kitengela plains. It results in a unique safari experience with lion, leopard, giraffe, zebra, rhino and much more to be seen in the wild with the spectacular city skyline as a backdrop.

2. A creative capital Nairobi has a thriving arts scene. Every November it hosts the East African Arts Auction that showcases some of the best modern and contemporary art from the region. All-year round you can check out the depth of talent among local artists – and see them at work – at Opportunity Factory. This marketplace for crafters in Mbagathi Road has stalls selling glassware, handmade home furnishings, jewellery, wood carvings and more. In the Hurlingham district you’ll find Kuona Trust Arts Centre, another gem

3. Party in the park

for discovering local artists who present their work there at regular exhibitions and installations, events, workshops and community outreach programmes.

Nairobi residents embrace the hustle during the week, but the weekend is a time to relax and enjoy quality time with loved ones. A family favourite when Saturday comes is Uhuru Park, a recently renovated recreational park that is a welcome green space amid the concrete jungle of the CBD. Families flock to the fun fair and the boating lake while there is plenty of room for groups to gather and enjoy picnics and barbecues on the lawns.

Flightlink.co.tz | 11

Nairobi

Reasons to visit 4. Take a ride on a matatu

Abraham Ali / Shutterstock.com

The city’s iconic matatus are like artworks on wheels. These pimpedout privately run minibuses go all out to attract customers with graffiti art covering the bodywork, music blasting and huge home entertainment systems inside showing films or music videos. Taking a ride is a sensory attack. There are no timetables or schedules: when it’s full, it goes. However, each matatu does stick to a regular route so you will get to where you need to go and affordably. If you are unsure, ask the conductor who takes your fare – cash only – to let you know when you arrive at your destination.

5. The city’s green lungs The bustling city centre with its skyscrapers and car-clogged streets may be something or a concrete jungle, but it is possible to escape into nature without leaving Nairobi. Karura Forest is a protected urban forest covering about 2,570 acres and split into three parts on the outskirts of the city. Amid its towering trees and tranquil pathways, it’s possible to leave the bustle of the city behind. Wildlife includes bushbuck, duiker and porcupines while human traffic includes Nairobians walking, cycling and even horse riding along its trails.

12 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

6. Tuck into the food scene From street food to fine dining, there is magic in each bite in Nairobi. If you want a classic city snack on the go, head to one of the ubiquitous stalls selling chapo smokie, a hot dog that is sliced lengthwise, grilled, and then filled with diced tomatoes and dollops

of chili or ketchup. More refined palates may want to check out Cultiva, a farm-to-table restaurant in affluent suburb Karen, with a seasonal menu of dishes such as tune ceviche and braised tongue taco loaded with heirloom crops from its own organic farm.

Melnikov Dmitriy / Shutterstock.com

8. City of culture With its vast collection of artefacts ethnographic displays, and wildlife exhibits the Nairobi National Museum is the place to dive into Kenya’s fascinating

history, culture, and natural heritage. Permanent galleries include early skull fossils found near Lake Turkana in northern Kenya, a collection of ancient coins and an Asian African Heritage exhibition.

9. Meet the creatives of Kibera

7. Nightlife in Nairobi Nairobi is a 24-hour city. That is something that you will appreciate if you sample the city’s fired-up club scene. Dance ‘til dawn at premier nightlife hotspots such as The Bar Next Door in upscale Kileleshwa or check out cutting edge Kenya electronica at cocktail bar and music venue Muze in Westlands.

Kibera, Africa’s largest slum, occupies 2.5 sq km on the outskirts of Nairobi. It is a place of deprivation and dislocation and there are organised tours that offer little more than poverty tourism. However, there are trips that reveal another side as Kibera is also a place of creativity and resilience. Here you will find a ballet school for slum kids, the studio of made-in-Kibera fashion brand Looks Like Avido alongside start-up shops selling sandals made from old tyres and jewellery created using recycled magazines. Take a tour that allows you to see and support projects such as this.

Flightlink.co.tz | 13

SPORTS TOURISM

WHY ZANZIBAR IS THE ISLAND FOR AN ACTIVE BREAK

From kitesurfing in its sapphire waters to cycling through forest trails, there’s plenty to keep you active in Zanzibar. Sports tourism here has also recently benefited from major investments in infrastructure such as an Olympic-sized swimming pool and an Africa Cup of Nations-ready 15,000-seater football stadium. Ahead of the inaugural Zanzibar International Sports Festival (ZISF) in February, Moffin Opilio explores the options to turn your trip into an active adventure.

14 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

Football

As in many parts of Africa, football holds a special place in the hearts of Zanzibaris. It is not uncommon to see impromptu matches being played on beaches or fields. Zanzibar has its own beach soccer league and spectacular tournament locations include the Nakupenda sandbar 5km from the Stone Town shore. Events such as the Zanzibar Film Festival (ZISF) in July have men and women’s beach soccer competitions and there will be tournament held as part of next year’s Zanzibar International Sports Festival. The Zanzibar Premier League is where the archipelago’s best association football players compete. There is also a national team that plays its home games at Amaan Stadium. The Zanzibar City venue has recently

undergone renovation to ready it as a venue for the 2027 Africa Cup of Nations. The archipelago’s footballing talent has caught the eye of the UK Premier League with Chelsea visiting the island and announcing plans to build an academy to nurture promising players. Perhaps the world’s most renowned footballing nation, Brazil, has also built ties with Zanzibar.

Running A daybreak or sunset run along one of Zanzibar’s vanilla-sand beaches is a priceless way to soak up the island’s beauty. Not only do you get to see the island glowing in ‘golden hour’ the air temperature will be cooler and more conducive for running. Bear in mind Zanzibar’s dramatic tide changes, especially on the east coast. Low and high

SPORTS TOURISM Soloviova Liudmyla / Shutterstock.com

FLY WITH US TO ZANZIBAR Two flights every day from Dar es Salaam, five flights each day from Arusha, Daily flights from Serengeti via Arusha, daily flights from Pemba, three flights each week from Mombasa. To book, visit flightlink. co.tz/en

of inhabitants in Zanzibar are Muslim and follow the Islamic faith. Religious dress is conservative (especially for women) so best to keep your running attire modest. If jogging on public roads or hitting the beach for a morning run is intimidating then locate the nearest football field – as mentioned before, they are everywhere – to run laps. Should you want to add a competitive edge to your running, there are organised races throughout the year. The Zanzibar International Marathon takes place in November and attracts thousands of tourists with races over 21km, 10km and 5km. The ZISF will also host its own ‘Blue Marathon’.

tides occur twice a day and the difference can be marked with high tides often swallowing up the beach entirely. Make sure to check a tide table before heading out on your run, as wet trainers and soggy socks are no-one’s idea of fun. It is also important to be sensitive to cultural values. The vast majority

Tour companies offer multi-day and day trip cycling tours around the island. Many hotels on the island will also have bikes for guests to hire while urban areas such as Stone Town offer a choice of bike rental outlets. Take a ride from Stone Town to a spice farm, tour the historic fishing village on Nungwi or go off-road in the trails of Jozani Forest. For serious cyclists one of the highlights of ZISF will be

Swimming Ringed by the Indian Ocean, Zanzibar offers countless opportunities for swimming. Many beaches here are ideal for safe swimming with offshore reefs keeping the inner waters calm. Of course, the reefs offer their own aquatic adventures with the colourful marine life they attract making for unforgettable snorkelling and diving excursions. The massive reef around Mnemba Island just off the coast of Zanzibar is a rich habitat for around six hundred species of colourful coral reef fish while its water are the seasonal home to

Flightlink.co.tz | 15

OlegD / Shutterstock.com

Cycling

the three-day ‘Tour de Zanzibar’ open to riders from all over the world. The stage race begins and ends in Stone Town and reaches Kendwa Rock in the north of the island and Kizimkazi in the south.

SPORTS TOURISM

Zanzibar International Sports Festival (ZISF)

giants of he sea such as humpback whales and whale sharks. Other pristine and fish-filled reefs include the Menai Bay Conservation Area and the coral gardens around the protected Chumbe Island. If the variety of underwater life here fills you with fear rather than fervour, there is now an Olympic-sized pool in Zanzibar to get your swimming fix. The state-of-the-art pool is among the new features at the revamped Amaan Sports Complex. The Tui Blue Bahari Zanzibar also has an 50-metre pool – one of three swimming pools at the 5-star beachside resort in Kiwengwa on the island’s north-east coast. .

Beach volleyball

Many beaches here have a volleyball net for a pick-up game during your Zanzibar holiday. If you want to see some of the best players in the world serve and spike, head to Nungwi beach in October where a 10-day international tournament takes place.

Basketball Basketball is a growing sport in Zanzibar as it is across the continent thanks to the Basketball African League (BAL). There is a public court in Malindi in Zanzibar City while a new acrylic court at Amaan is the place to watch the big games. International tournament the ZYBA Cup, organised by the Zanzibar Basketballers Association, takes place in August.

Tennis There are plenty of Zanzibar hotels that have tennis courts for guests to use. ZISF brings the opportunity to watch local players take on talent from around the world at a tournament From February 11 to 12 at Maisara Tennis Club in Zanzibar City. Padel Tennis – a adaptation of tennis with a smaller court and lower net – is having a global moment and there are two floodlit courts at Padel Tennis, a club in Kiwengwa.

The first edition of this festival is set to launch in February 2025. The five-day event aims to showcase the natural beauty of the Zanzibar islands to the world through a series of sporting events open to local and international competitors. Sporting events include a ‘Tour of Zanzibar’ cycle race, marathons and fun runs, beach soccer tournaments and a tennis competition. Packages for international competitors include sight-seeing tours to familiarise them with the wonders of Zanzibar. To register for any of the festival events, visit zisf.co.tz

Kitesurfing Some of the best kiting conditions in the world can be found on Zanzibar’s South-East Coast, with Paje and Jambiani now filled with surf schools, bars, clubs and hotel to cater for an international crowd of kitesurfers. The low-tide lagoon, which is full of calm, shallow water over soft sand is ideal for beginners to learn the sport water while beyond the reef there are waves for advanced riders. Other kitesurfing spots include Kiwengwa bay where international kitesurf regatta the Zanzibar Cup takes place every August.

Flightlink.co.tz | 17

SIX PLACES TO GO FOR A GREAT CUP OF COFFEE Here’s our top picks for a caffeine hit across Flightlink’s network of destinations. 18 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

Caption ????

COFFEE HOUSES

Kesh Kesh Cafe Nairobi Kesh Kesh owner Fenkil Asghedom comes from Eritrea, a country where coffee is not just a drink but also a ceremony. The name of the café is an Eritrean phrase referring to the movement of the coffee beans as they dance in the roaster. Located in trendy commercial and residential neighbourhood Kilimani, the café has roasting machine on-site to make the speciality Arabica coffee beans it sources from across East Africa dance. You can order the coffee as whole beans or ground to make at home or enjoy the Kesh Kesh signature dark and medium roasts in the cute café with its indoor and outdoor seating areas and free wi-fi.

Location: Chaka Rd Call: +254 724 131 700.

Zanzibar Coffee House Zanzibar Island (Unguja)

Wild Flour Artisan Bakery and Café Dar es Salaam Shrouded in a woodland garden that makes it seem a world away from the busy Chole Road on its doorstep, this café offers 100 per cent Tanzanian coffee along with a tasty food menu with the focus on organic produce. Its rooftop terrace and glass-panelled conservatory make the most of the verdant views while the downstairs seating area has a library to select some reading to accompany your coffee. The Wild Flour has recently added an evening dinner menu and is a popular venue for music and art events such as the regular Tanzanian Treasures art fair.

Location: Chole Road Call: +22 763 492 848

This café and hotel captures the magic and romance of Swahili life. Located in one of one of the oldest buildings in Stone Town – it was built in 1885 by Sir Tharia Topan, minister to Sultan Said Bargash and a philanthropist who was one of the major players in abolishing the slave trade in Zanzibar – it makes use of the Arabic house’s courtyards and corners as cool seating areas for guests to take time over their coffee. However, the most spectacular drinking spot is the rooftop terrace with its views over the tightly packed Stone Town skyline and out to the ocean. The coffee is as impressive as the vista. It is grown in the rich volcanic soil of the Southern Highlands in Mbeya at the Utengule Coffee Estate then roasted in Dar es Salaam. The result is a premium coffee renowned for its smooth flavour, full body and fine acidity.

Location: Mkunazini St Call:+255 773 061 532 Flightlink.co.tz | 19

COFFEE HOUSES

Jahazi Mombasa This small locally run coffee house is located in a once-abandoned 18th century house near Fort Jesus in Mombasa’s Old Town. The historic quarter has seen the coming and going of the Omani Arabs, Turks and Portuguese and Jahazi embraces the melting pot of Swahili culture with its brews mixed with home grown spices such as clove and cardamom. Complement your Swahili Kahawa with some freshly baked local street food favourites such as mandazi doughnuts or vitumbua rice cakes. The café has become something of a creative hub of late hosting regular pottery sessions in which visitors can make their own ceramic mugs to hold that delicious coffee.

Complement your Swahili Kahawa with some freshly baked local street food favourites such as mandazi doughnuts or vitumbua rice cakes.

Location: Ndia Kuu Road Call: +254 113 585 755

Raptor Café Arusha As you would expect from a city towered over by Mount Meru with its foothills of seemingly endless acres of emerald-green coffee trees, Arusha is a great place for a quality cuppa. There is a huge choice of good cafés here, but our current favourite is the Raptor Coffee Bar. Tucked away in the heart of the city just footsteps from the Clock Tower, this cosy café serves freshly roasted single origin specialty coffee as well as a great choice of juices. The free wi-fi attracts the remote workers while an excellent menu brings in the lunchtime crowd. At the weekend its comfy seats are ideal place to curl up with a coffee and while away the day.

Location: Sokoine Road Call +255 683 864 044 20 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

JOZANI BIRDS

THE BEAUTIFUL BIRDS

OF JOZANI FOREST Most visitors to Zanzibar’s Jozani Forest are on the trail of its endemic red colobus monkeys but the double canopy reserve is also home to more than 160 bird species. Kevin Kelli goes on a guided yet uncharted walk that reveals the colours and character of the rich feathered life here.

Fischer's Turaco

meet Bakari Mohammed at 9 am. He is wearing a khaki safari suit with gumboots and isn’t particularly happy to see me. “What’s your problem?” I teased. “I thought you loved birdwatching.” “Look who's talking,” he shot back. “You should have been here at sunrise.” Bakari is my guide for the day, and he has a point.

Birdwatching is best done early. I apologize, assured him that I am confident in his prowess as a guide and wasn’t looking for any particular bird. “So, you're not here to see the rare Fischer’s turaco or Sharpe’s Akalat?” He asked testily. ‘I don't care if we don't see any rare birds, even a house sparrow or weaver will make me happy,” I replied nonchalantly.

He beamed and shook my hand, “Well in that case you may call me Beka.” Now on nickname terms, and without expectations, we began our hike into Jozani Forest. Our plan was simple; follow where the path leads, keep our eyes open and trust in providence. Jozani is located in the central east region of Unguja, the largest island in the Zanzibar archipelago. The forest is famous for its resident troops of Zanzibar red colobus monkeys, endemic to the island. This thriving tropical ecosystem is also home to over 160 bird species, which is why the khaki-clad man and I were trudging deep into the tropical forest. We couldn’t care less about the colobus monkeys. Beka was born 34 years ago on the island. From a young age, he was fascinated with birds, so much so that he hunted them with a catapult and clipped their wings to limit their ability to fly away as many juveniles in rural Africa do. However, as he grew older, he learnt the error of his ways and dedicated much of his

Flightlink.co.tz | 21

JOZANI BIRDS

time to avian conservation. For the past 12 years, he has volunteered at the Forest and has become one of the most in-demand bird-watching guides on the island. He dedicates about four mornings a week to guiding educational tours. When not in the forest, he works as a construction foreman. “Was it hard becoming a professional bird-watching guide?” I ask as we walk beneath the forest’s canopy. “I already knew about these birds. The challenge was translating my knowledge from Swahili to English….” He stops his talk short and suddenly crouches low and points. It was a little greenbul – a species that’s extremely shy. Easily heard but seldom seen. Beka wasn’t impressed when I told him it was the first time I’d seen one. “I thought you were a professional bird watcher.” Before I can muster a sufficient comeback, an olive sunbird darts from the undergrowth and up into the canopy. Beka cocks his ear, “Listen!” It was the unmistakable coo of an emerald-spotted wood dove. “Between those branches,” he whispers. At first glance, there’s nothing special about this midsized dove, but when the sunlight hits the spots on its wings, they

We reach a magical woodland area, teeming with collared sunbirds and forest weavers. I see a green-backed wood hoopoe and a white-browed coucal hopping out of a thicket.

A white-browed coucal

Emerald Spotted Wood Dove

explode into the most beautiful metallic shades of emerald that give the bird its name. We come to an area grassland and Beka points to some miniature dots dancing around a tree. On closer inspection, they turn out to be manikins. These little birds flock in number well into the hundreds. I thought we were wandering the forest aimlessly, but I now realised Beka had a plan. “Do you even know where we are?” I chide. “Patience!” he responds.

Napenda sana ndege We reach a magical woodland area, teeming with collared sunbirds and forest weavers. I see a green-backed wood hoopoe and a white-browed coucal hopping out of a thicket. They appear just long enough for me to get a good look but vanish as soon as I raise my camera. Other spots include plenty

22 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

of purple-banded sunbirds and yellow-vented bulbuls as well as a scarlet-chested sunbird couple perched on a neem tree, engaged in an intense argument. The female appeared furious, probably because the male was in full breeding plumage in close proximity to other females. “What’s the favourite part of your job?” I ask Beka as we leave the woodlands and head towards the edge of the forest. “Napenda sana ndege,” he replies in Swahili. It means he really loves birds. It was easy to see why. We had only been in the forest an hour and had already seen so much. When Beka talks of birds, he speaks about their character, what brings them joy and what makes them unhappy. Good guides know the names and genders of their birds, but Beka here can interpret their emotions.

JOZANI BIRDS

Green-backed camaroptera bird on a rock next to palm tree

A Broad-billed Roller sweeps in to take drink on the wing

A bizarre bird calling started very close to us. “Why don't you check those bushes?” Beka says with a funny smirk. “I inch closer to the bush and instantly hear the bird calling behind me. I spin around but only see Beka laughing his heart out. Turns out the man can mimic bird calls as well. At the edge of the forest, we see a spinach farm where a man is cultivating his crop in the mid-morning sun. “Look there!” Beka points. “I didn't come all this way to see people,” I reply grudgingly, still brooding about the bird calling prank. “No, look there.” In the middle of the farm, on a broken papaya trunk is one of the most beautiful birds in all of Africa, a dazzle of colours known as the lilac-breasted roller. “Distract the farmer, I’m going closer for a photo.” I raise my camera and crouch low.

“Just don't step on his crops,” replies Beka, keeping an eye out.

Cattle Egrets standing on a cow's back

Early riser sees the bird Back in the forest we see a couple of cattle egrets along the way and a grassland pipit perched on a tree, allowing me a great photo. “What’s the worst part of your job,” I ask Beka. He stares into the distance. He takes his time before responding: “When guests only want to see a particular bird and ignore the rest of the beautiful species of this forest.” We stop in between a woodland of giant, red mahogany trees and soak in the tranquility. The undergrowth is filled with ferns, while the sunrays paint intricate patterns through the

canopy. In the silence, I hear a green-backed camaroptera, a Zanzibar greenbul, and a woodland kingfisher calling its mate. The scorching Zanzibar sun reminds us that it’s almost noon. We decide to stop for the day and start circling back to base. En route, we encounter a mouse-coloured sunbird, a black-bellied starling, a house sparrow, a yellow-backed tinkerbird, a zitting cisticola and a pair of broad-billed rollers. “Well, that wasn’t too bad,” I say as we arrive back at the forest gate. “Maybe next time make an appointment with the Fischer’s turaco?" Beka smiles warmly. “Maybe next time wake up on time. The early riser sees the bird!”

Flightlink.co.tz | 23

BEST MOUNTAIN HIDEAWAYS

MOUNTAIN HIDEAWAYS TO ESCAPE TO Sometimes, you just need to get it away from it all… that’s why Zebra Stripes has selected its favourite secluded stays in mountain retreats. From a luxury coffee lodge in the foothills of Mount Meru to a property located right next to a volcano, we have chosen some wondrous havens with rooms – and views – to die for.

THE HIGHLANDS

EXCLUSIVE ESCAPE: This award-winning eightroom camp occupies the SERENGETI highest vantage point within the mountain forest that encircles Olmoti Volcano, offering sublime, panoramic vistas across the Serengeti. The camp feels remote, but the world-renowned Ngorongoro Crater and its UNESCO World Heritage Site conservation area lie 40 km to the south for day-long game drives to spot lions, elephants and giraffes, with a midday picnic break under a shady tree. UNIQUE SELLING POINT: The eye-catching eight domed suites are made of canvas and glass and have a striking, otherworldly quality. The design is a modern twist on traditional Maasai bomas with the floor-toceiling glass panels giving guests incredible views of the surrounding lush slopes.

FACILITIES: The Olmoti Volcano is reachable on a direct hike from the camp while the Empakaai Crater is also close enough for a half-day visit with the chance to see the thousands of pink flamingos that congregate around its soda lake. The lodge itself offers plenty of creature comforts between safaris with a library with its indoor fireplace that’s a popular spot for guests to gather and share stories over pre-dinner drinks. ROOMS: Among the eight suites there is one family tent with room for kids and one special honeymoon tent with a hot tub. Each suite has a king-sized bed facing floor-to-ceiling windows and a deck that curves around the tent. En-suite bathrooms have hot running water, showers and flushing toilets. At night, wood-burning stoves keep guests cosy. Find out more: asiliaafrica.com/camps-lodges/the-highlands

Flightlink.co.tz | 25

KALIWA LODGE KILIMANJARO NATIONAL PARK

EXCLUSIVE ESCAPE: Of course, we couldn’t put together a mountain retreat feature without including one in Kilimanjaro. Kaliwa Lodge sits at 1,300 metres above sea level among mountain rainforest and just minutes from the Kilimanjaro National Park’s Machame entrance gate, the start and finish point of most ascents of Africa’s highest peak. EXCLUSIVE ESCAPE: The hotel’s communal terrace – known as ‘The Deck’ – has a case for offering the most incredible view in the world.

You look out over the treetops of the densely forested Weru Weru River Valley to see Mount Kilimanjaro's snow-covered in all its glory. It makes for the perfect sun

salutations at yoga retreats, which have become very popular at Kaliwa. FACILITIES: Many guests are looking for a well-deserved

FACILITIES: The lodge’s freshwater pool provides a welcome dip after a dusty day out on safari while The Landrover’s Bar offers more refreshment and wondrous views over the treetops.

SABLE MOUNTAIN LODGE

NYERERE NATIONAL PARK EXCLUSIVE ESCAPE: This beautiful, thatched lodge is set in the Beho Beho Hills on the North Western boundary of Selous Game Reserve, giving a fantastic vantage point with amazing potential for wildlife

spotting. Its tree house viewing area neighbours a water hole that attracts plenty of animals, including elephants. UNIQUE SELLING POINT: Sequestered among mountain forest, this lodge offers walking safari options from its front door as well as game drives in the nearby Selous Game Reserve and boat safaris on Lake Tagalala.

26 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

ACCOMMODATION: There are eight rustic stone cottages and five tented bandas, two of which are slightly larger honeymoon tents. The tents benefit from lovely verandas and are well spaced apart. If you are travelling in a large group or with a family, go for the two-bedroom thatched villa with fantastic views over the forest from the rooftop. Find out more: selousgamereserve.net

rest after an ascent of Mount Kilimanjaro and with its cosy bungalows shrouded by towering eucalyptus trees, stands of banana and cascades of fuchsia-hued

ARUSHA COFFEE LODGE

ARUSHA, NORTHERN TANZANIA EXCLUSIVE ESCAPE: Tucked away in the gently rolling foothills of Mount Meru that looms over Arusha, this 30-room property offers a perfect haven for relaxation whether you are readying for or recovering from a

BEST MOUNTAIN HIDEAWAYS

hornbill and the chattering of monkeys. If you do want to venture out, there are plenty of walks from the lodge’s front door, including a very scenic path to a waterfall in the Weru Weru river. There is also an excellent restaurant with a menu packed with fresh ingredients picked from the lodge’s gardens.

bougainvillea, Kaliwa provides a tranquil haven. Catch up on sleep to a chorus of cicada and the laughter of bush babies. Your morning alarm clock is the cry of the

wildlife adventure or just really love coffee. UNIQUE SELLING POINT: The lodge is situated on one of the largest working coffee plantations in Tanzania. The rooms nestled among the evergreen coffee fields here and tours of the estate are available to guests – especially exciting during the July to December harvest period

ACCOMMODATION: All the cottages offer a patio and seating area with views of the verdant gardens. There is also a family suite with a private terrace and the single rooms are deliberately placed next to each other so solo climbers can bond before their shared adventure to ‘the roof of Africa’.

FAIRMONT MOUNT KENYA SAFARI CLUB MOUNT KENYA

EXCLUSIVE ESCAPE: Even Hollywood screen legends need some ‘me’ time and this elegant sprawling resort located at close to 2,000 metres in the town Nanyuki on the slopes of Mount Kenya was once the East African retreat of US film actor William Holden. The Oscar winner would invite

UNIQUE SELLING POINT: When you order a drink at the club’s laid back bar, Zebar, the waiter has to cross hemispheres to take your order as the world’s equator bisects the room. FACILITIES: There’s no shortage of exclusive experiences to be had here, among them horse riding, guided bird walks and a private dining experience on the River Likii, afternoon tea on the manicured grounds, a game of golf at the on-site course and dining at the excellent

Find out more: kaliwalodge.com

– and you are never far from the aroma of the coffee with the farm’s beans making it to your breakfast coffee pot each morning. FACILITIES: Arusha National Park and the Ngorongoro Crater are day-trip close, but if you want to hunker down and recharge amid the hotel’s lush surroundings, you’ll find the treatments at the onsite Peaberries Spa will bring welcome feelings of wellness. ACCOMMODATION: The plantation suites and rooms are modern yet homely retreats among the coffee trees with rainfall showers and a private outside terrace with a log fire. Find out more: elewanacollection.com/ arusha-coffee-lodge

many of his famous friends to stay with former club members including singer Bing Crosby and British Prime Minister Winston Churchill. The 100-acre club still exudes classic Hollywood glamour with the original building housing most of the facilities and tastefully furnished rooms. The star of the show is still Mount Kenya, though, which looms over the resort and is a stunning backdrop especially in the morning when the rising sun makes a silhouette of its peaks.

Tusks restaurant. The club also has a new health and fitness centre. ACCOMMODATION: Most of the 120 rooms are located in the original colonial-style building. You’ll also find more spacious suites here and in the more modern William Holden Cottages, which are massive and come with their own private lawn area. Find out more: fairmont.com

Flightlink.co.tz | 27

Pemba Capital

5 REASONS TO VISIT

CHAKE-CHAKE

So good they named it twice, Chake-Chake, Pemba’s capital, often only entertains visitors as long as it takes for them to organise tours and transport that explore more pristine beauty spots on the ‘Green Island’. However, the lively town with its stretch of shops and water-side fish market looking out to the cerulean waters of Ocean Bay is worth more of your time. Here are five reasons to stick around.

Mkame Ndume ruins The ruins of a Swahili citadel that dates back to the late 15th Century can be found near the village of Pujini, a cycle ride south east of Chake-Chake. It is believed to have been built at the behest of the then ruler Mohammed bin Abdul Rahman, who had a fearsome reputation. He is said to have worked locals so hard in building the fortress that he became known as ‘Mkame Ndume’ or ‘milker of men’. The ramparts are among the best-preserved examples on the Swahili Coast, yet the Portuguese forces they were designed to repel did finally get through to gain control of Pemba in the early 16th Century. Visitors are free to wander the ramparts and see where archaeologists have identified a shrine, a well and a one km channel to the sea.

Bin Awadh Coffee This unassuming Chake-Chake café offers great views out over the bay as well as plenty of freshly brewed coffee and hunks of super sweet kashata peanut brittle to nibble on. Open from 7am to midday, a friendly spot to get your morning caffeine hit and ease yourself into the day with a game or two of traditional board game bao with the locals.

Kidike Flying Fox Sanctuary

FLY WITH US TO PEMBA Two flights every day from Dar es Salaam via Zanzibar To book, visit flightlink. co.tz/en

If you want to guarantee a sighting of Pemba’s endemic, but elusive flying fox, then this sanctuary, which is home to more than half of the island’s population of ‘popo’ (the bat’s Swahili name), is the place to go. About 4,000 of the nocturnal creatures hang in the trees of the sanctuary, enjoying the solitude that the site’s proximity to a human burial ground gives them. The sanctuary is run as a joint venture by villagers and the government. Several tour operators in Chake-Chake run trips or just make your own way – Kidike is a 7km dala dala ride from town.

ZSTC Clove Oil Distillery Pemba is well known for its clove industry and this distillery is where the stems of the aromatic spice are turned into essential oil. The factory is located in Machomani, a village on the northern outskirts of Chake-Chake, and is run by the Zanzibar State Trading Corporation. Guided tours are available in which you’ll see oils extracted from a variety of island plants such as basil, citronella and eucalyptus.

Pemba Museum This fantastically detailed museum is housed in the town’s 18th Century Arab fort, which still retains its original ornate wooden door. Inside you’ll find exhibits on the ruins of Pemba – a visit here is an excellent primer for a trip to Mkame Ndume – as well as the island’s boatbuilding traditions with a model of a mtepe, a boat made with coconut rope and a sail of palm leaves. It’s also a great place to learn more about Swahili culture with examples of traditional cuisine, furniture, homes, music and herbal medicine. The museum is open 8.30am to 4.30pm weekdays and 9am to 4pm at weekends. Flightlink.co.tz | 29

Alexander Leisser _ Wikimedia Commons _ CC-BY-SA-4.0

Embrace Nature Юрий Д.К. _ Wikimedia Commons _ CC-BY-SA-2.0

What are the kaya forests? The Unesco Sacred Mijikenda Kaya Forests consist of 11 separate forest sites spread over some 200 km along the coast in the counties of Kilifi, Kwale, and Mombasa in south-east Kenya. The forests contain the remains of numerous fortified villages, known as kayas, of the Mijikenda people. The kayas date back to the 16th Century but were abandoned as places to live by the 1940s. The Mijikenda still venerate the kayas as places where the spirits of their ancestors live on. The forests are governed by councils of elders in collaboration with the National Museums of Kenya. Who are the Mijikenda? The Mijikenda people inhabit the coastline of Kenya from north to south. They are sometimes known as ‘the Nine Tribes’ as they are made up of nine ethnic groups each with their own unique customs and dialect. They arrived from Somalia to settle in Kenya’s remote woodland areas – it is thought to avoid submission to dominant

SACRED FORESTS

The kaya forests are sacred sites along the Kenyan coast that once were home to the fortified villages of the Mijikenda tribe. Eleven of the estimated 30 forests are now Unesco World Heritage sites with one of them open to the public. Here visitors get the chance to commune with its eternal energies from tree hugging to forest meditations. Here’s all you need to know.

Can you visit the kaya forests? Yes, one of them! The Kaya Kinondo Forest in Diani Beach welcomes visitors. This small forest is home to a diverse ecosystem with 187 plant species, including many that have been used by the Mijikenda for medicinal purposes for centuries. They include the ‘pimple tree’, considered a cure for acne, and the no-explanation-required ‘Viagra

Hug a tree in Kenya's sacred forest Юрий Д.К. _ Wikimedia Commons _ CC-BY-SA-2.0

Portuguese forces that were then in control of coastal cities from the 16th to the 18th centuries. The Mijikenda still consider these forests as the homes of their ancestors and a focal point of their culture and identity. It's a sacred ground that connects all members of the tribe, past and present. What place do the kaya forests have in Mijikenda life today? The Mijikenda people still perform many rituals in the Kaya forests. Ceremonies include prayers, marriages, naming ceremonies for newborns and coronations of leaders. The forests are also still used as burial grounds.

What is the environmental significance of the forests? The sacred significance of the kaya forests has seen them survive while much of Kenya’s coastal forests have declined due to deforestation and encroachment. As such, the kaya forests are critical ecosystems. They are home to a high level of biodiversity, including rare and endemic species. Studies have shown that seven of Kenya’s top 20 forested sites for plant biodiversity are kaya forests. The forests are also important providers of air and water purification, pollination, seed dispersal, soil stabilisation, drought and flood control as well as nutrient recycling.

tree’. Many of the trees here are thought to be around 600 years old and there is even one palm believed to date back 1050 years. Top of the trees for many visitors is the ‘Worry Tree’ that, legend has it, will take away all your fears and concerns when you give it a hug. The forest is also home to a variety of wildlife, including monkeys, red squirrels, butterflies, and birds. All visits must be conducted with a guide and there are rules to follow. Visitors should remove all headgear, wear a kaniki sarong around the waist and promise not to kiss anyone while within the forest (hugs are ok – as long as they are with trees). It is also forbidden for visitors to take any vegetation – even a twig or a leaf –from the scared forest.

Юрий Д.К. _ Wikimedia Commons _ CC-BY-SA-2.0

Forest bathing is good for the body and soul Research shows there are long-term benefits in spending time in forests and around trees, including reduced stress, improved immunity, lower blood pressure and even improved mental clarity and problem-solving skulls. The Japanese have a name for this woodland wellness – shinrin yoku or forest bathing. Japanese scientist Qing Lei recently proved that ‘phytoncides’ emitted by trees and plants emit enhance the activity of natural killer cells that help our bodies to fight disease. To benefit, all humans need to do is walk in the woods and breathe these ‘phytoncides’ in.

Flightlink.co.tz | 31

NORTHERN SAFARI CIRCUIT

Why the Northern Safari Circuit

deserves a place on your bucket list

Lake Natron

The Northern Safari Circuit a place of geographical extremes and abundant animals. Adventurer Sarah Kingdom selects some of her personal highlights.

Serengeti National Park

Foremost of the highlights on the Northern Safari Circuit is the Serengeti National Park. You are almost guaranteed to get up close and personal with the ‘Big Five’ (lions, elephants, rhinos, leopards, and Cape buffalo) here as well as a host of other species. The birds of the Serengeti are just as spectacular and varied as the bigger animals and almost 500 bird species have been recorded in the park. Add in the 1.7 million wildebeest, 300,000 zebra and 400,000 gazelle that take part in the never ending Great Migration – one of nature’s most incredible spectacles – and you have one of Tanzania’s top attractions. PRO TIP: The Serengeti is often compared to the contiguous Masai Mara National Reserve in Kenya, but the Serengeti is in fact almost eight times the size, and offers a safari experience that is a little less crowded and a lot more personal.

32 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

NORTHERN SAFARI CIRCUIT

Ngorongoro Crater

The Ngorongoro Conservation Area is where you can find the Ngorongoro Crater, the world’s largest intact yet inactive volcanic caldera. Like the Serengeti it is a Unesco World Heritage Site and promises sightings of the Big Five and plenty of other wildlife as well. The crater promises some of Africa’s best game viewing and is the yearround home for many of Africa’s largest animals including black rhino, black-maned lion, wildebeest, zebra, hippo and buffalo, as well as the continent’s densest population of spotted hyena and some of Africa’s largest elephants. PRO TIP: The Ngorongoro Crater allows game drives only in the daytime. If you are staying at one of the lodges on the crater rim itself, you can sometimes do a short bush walk around the property.

Olduvai Gorge

Within the protected area of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area lies the vast Olduvai Gorge, the birthplace of humankind. The gorge is a steepsided ravine roughly 48 km long and 90 metres deep. It was here, in the early twentieth century, that archaeologist Dr Louis Leakey uncovered some of the earliest hominid fossils. According to paleoanthropologists, the fossil-rich deposits here cover a time span from about 2,100,000 to 15,000 years ago. There’s also a fascinating museum that’s well worth a visit.

PRO TIP: The name Olduvai originated from a European misspelling of the word ‘Oldupai’, the Maasai word for the wild sisal plants that grow in abundance in the gorge.

Lake Natron

Ngorongoro Crater

A remote and not-so-easily accessible landmark, Lake Natron is a particularly good place to visit in August to October when its shores are populated by nesting pink flamingos. Lake Natron’s waters are the only regular breeding area in East Africa for 2.5 million lesser flamingos who nest on salty mud platforms that are protected from predators by the toxic water. Fed by natural springs, the lake’s waters are rich with a mixture of salts and minerals called ‘natron’ – hence the name. Flightlink.co.tz | 33

NORTHERN SAFARI CIRCUIT

I set off on a three-day hike from our Lake Natron camp to the Olduvai Gorge. We covered around 10km a day following the migration routes that the Maasai and their cattle use as they move to find fresh pastures along the Rift Valley.

Planning your trip

Ol Doinyo Lengai

My Tanzanian odyssey was put together by luxury travel professionals Mahlatini (mahlatini. com). With the logistics in their hands, I never had to worry about timings, flight details, or even if I was going toX be in the best place, to see the best stuff, at the best time. They took care of it all.

Backdropped by the dramatic rise of the volcano, Ol Doinyo Lengai, towering in the distance, Lake Natron is a truly special place to be. PRO TIP: The best time to see the flamingos is from June to November. Don’t expect to spot much other game while you are here though as most mammals steer clear of the toxic water.

Ol Doinyo Lengai

Lake Natron is watched over by Ol Doinyo Lengai, the only active carbonatite volcano in the world and hardest one-day hike in East Africa. Hikers face a challenging ascent but the views from the top make it all worthwhile. An overnight ascent to the 2,960-metre summit of the famous ‘Mountain of God’, sacred to the Maasai, is an unforgettable experience. Your guide will drive to the bottom of the mountain, about an hour from Lake Natron Camp. The ascent takes around four to six hours, meaning you should reach the rim in time for the stunning sunrise.

The Footsteps of Mankind trek

This was the highlight of my time in Northern Tanzania. The morning after conquering Ol Doinyo Lengai

34 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

Rift Valley

PEMBA BEACHES

FLY WITH US TO PEMBA

BEST SECRET BEACHES IN PEMBA

The lush, hilly landscape of the ‘Green Island’ of Pemba hides some spectacular, often deserted beaches. Here’s Zebra Stripe's guide to these secret sands. If you know, you know. out will get you to the pristine coral reefs that halo the island and provide some of the best diving in East Africa. Nesting hawksbill turtles favour the western side of the island while inland from the beaches are caves believed to be home to the spirits of ancestors.

MBUYUNI BEACH

This idyllic 3km stretch of beach in Pemba’s north-western corner is among the island’s most popular, yet there is still a good chance you and your party will be the only ones leaving footprints in the flawless white sand. Shrouded by the thick foliage of Ngezi Forest, the best way to access the beach is by dhow and once the fishing boat steers into this deserted cove, you’ll feel like you’ve discovered paradise.

MISALI ISLAND

Just another boat ride away is Misali Island – an uninhabited piece of paradise that is part of a protected area which covers Pemba’s entire west coast. The beaches here are beautiful and just a short swim

Lukasz Nycz / Shutterstock.com

VUMAWIMBI BEACH

On the eastern side of the Kigomasha peninsula on Pemba’s northern tip, you’ll find some of the island’s most remote yet rewarding beaches. They are inaccessible by four-wheeled vehicle but hire a bicycle or a pikipiki scooter and weave through the woods and you’ll come upon a series of untouched beaches with the best of them, Mbuyuni, offering thatched huts for an overnight stay.

Gideon Ikigai / Shutterstock.com

To book, visit flightlink. co.tz/en

Robin Batista / Shutterstock.com

Two flights every day from Dar es Salaam via Zanzibar

RAS KIUYU

This promontory affords fantastic views of Pemba’s north-western coastline with the beach stretching as far as the eyes can see. Getting here is an adventure in itself as you’ll need to navigate the Ras Kiuyu Forest, which is teeming with rare bird life and stretches all the way to the coast. Making your way through the tree cover to come out onto this untouched beach is a reveal time will never erase.

KIGOMASHA PENINSULA

This spot at the northernmost point of the island offers incredible views and diving opportunities. Most people visit to take in the Ras Kigomasha Lighthouse, which was built 115 years ago to warn colonial ships of the treacherous promontory. The remote location is protected and there is an entrance fee to look around the lighthouse, but the excellent surrounding beaches and turquoise waters. Nearby village Makangale also offers the chance of cultural visits for tourists. Flightlink.co.tz | 35

POOLS

TO INFINITY POOLS AND BEYOND The swimming pool is one of the favourite facilities for hotel guests to hang out. Even in Tanzania, when on the coast you are often just a breath away from some of the world’s most beautiful beaches, a hotel pool is a sanctuary for travellers and often the place where they will start and end their days. So, we thought we’d dive in and reveal some of the best pools out there and all within easy reach of a Flightlink destination.

Best for a swim in Stone Town…

Beyt Al Salaam Boutique Hotel

A good pool is a winning attraction

Stone Town has its first indoor swimming pool. It has just been completed and made available to guests at the Beyt Al Salaam Boutique Hotel. It has been a challenging project for the hotel’s owners with the former wealthy Arab merchant’s home located in the heart of the city’s historic centre, meaning strict conservation rules had to be taken into account. The results are very in keeping with the classy 10-room hotel and restaurant’s authentic Swahili vibe. There’s an ornate

36 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

carved mezzanine staircase offering views of the pool from above, a high veranda allowing cooling breezes to circulate, pendulous brass lamps providing intimate overhead lighting and a cute poolside bar area. It all provides a welcome escape from the bustle of Stone Town and another reason why the hotel lives up to its name of ‘The House of Peace’. LOCATION: Kelele Square, Stone Town, Zanzibar CONTACT: Call +255 773 000 086 or email reservations@beytalsalaam.com FLIGHTLINK FLIGHT: Zanzibar

POOLS

For a Dar es Salaam beach escape…

which houses an excellent bar and restaurant for delicious pool-side snacks.

Azure Boutique Resort

Just a short drive north of Dar es Salaam will get you to the pristine coastline of Jangwani Beach. The four-star Azure Boutique Resort spills out onto the vanilla sand and translucent waters here, but many guests still opt to take in the ocean view from the hotel’s large L-shaped swimming pool. The pool is long enough to get a workout in by swimming laps and you refuel at the neighbouring banda,

LOCATION: Mbezi Beach, Africana Road, Dar es Salaam LOCATION: Call +255 6863 518 979 or email info@azuretz.com FLIGHTLINK FLIGHT: Dar es Salaam

For lakeside luxury… Malaika Beach Resort, Mwanza

This resort really gives guests a close-up experience of the unique landscape in Mwanza, build into one of the rocky outcrops that dominate the coast here and right on the shores of Lake Victoria. In fact, the wonderful outdoor infinity pool here blends with the lake’s blue horizon. As well as the pool, this recently renovated resort also has a lakeside spa for true relaxation amid all this unbridled natural beauty.

Malaika Beach Resort

Azure Boutique Resort

LOCATION: Tunza Road, Mwanza CONTACT: Call +255 282 561 111 or email info@malaikabeachresort.com FLIGHTLINK FLIGHT: Mwanza

For swimming laps in luxury… Gran Meliá Arusha

Everything about this new – opened in 2019 – luxury hotel in Arusha is on a massive scale from its 18 acres of beautifully landscaped grounds to its views of Mount Meru looming above it. The super-sized environment includes its unique outside swimming pool which undulates lake-like around lush gardens at the rear of the five-star hotel. It’s a truly opulent spot for a dip. LOCATION: Simeon Road, Arusha CONTACT: Call +255 746 982 400 or email gran.melia.arusha@melia.com FLIGHTLINK FLIGHT: Arusha

Flightlink.co.tz | 37

POOLS

Lamai, Serengeti

The Gran Meliá, Arusha

The pool at Palacina

For a pool-side safari… Lamai, Serengeti

The super-sized environment includes its unique outside swimming pool which undulates lake-like around lush gardens

This beautiful family-friendly lodge is nestled among the iconic Kogakuria Kopje in the northern Serengeti, giving a vantage point that commands far-reaching views across the Mara River valley. The lodge has made ingenious use of its unique setting with tents spread among the rocks and even two natural rock swimming pools. Of course, the camp organises plenty of wildlife-spotting trips into the rolling wilds here, but you also have the option to cool off in the pools and wait for the wildlife to come to you with each offering incredible views across the plains, which, between July and October, should be covered in wildebeest on their annual migration. LOCATION: Nyamburi Village, Tanzania CONTACT: Call +255 787 595 9081 FLIGHTLINK FLIGHT: Seronera

For a serene swim in Nairobi… Palacina, The Residence & Suites

This family-run 14-room luxury hotel manages to be an oasis of calm while located close to the Kenyan capital’s busy city centre. Its lounge area with veranda, reading spaces, live music in the bar and The Bistro restaurant – reckoned to be among the best in the city – all add to the sense of sanctuary. It also has two pools. The outside one is a real beauty and set in large, manicured lawns, while the indoor pool is the largest of its kind in Nairobi and ideal for swimming for fitness. There is also an onsite gym if you still have the energy. LOCATION: Kitale Lane, off Denis Pritt Rd, Nairobi CONTACT: +254 720 493 747 FLIGHTLINK FLIGHT: Nairobi

Flightlink.co.tz | 39

The story behind our logo Flightlink’s striking black and white logo captures the airline’s essence in a simple, clear, and memorable way.

he Flightlink logo is a bold and dynamic representation of Africa's untamed spirit. The zebrastriped continent, a symbol of the wild and free, is a visual journey across the vast landscapes of Tanzania. The vibrant red highlight on Tanzania ignites a sense of adventure, inviting travellers to explore the country’s rich cultural heritage and breathtaking natural wonders. The sleek, modern typography of ‘Flightlink’ juxtaposes the wild nature of the continent, promising a seamless and exciting travel experience. This logo is a call to action, inspiring wanderlust and inviting travellers to soar above the African skies with our airline.

Quiz winners

Earn your stripes with Flightlink Last issue's quiz winner Dr. Mohammed Hamid

Last issue's quiz winner Roniquee Marksman

Congratulations for answering all of the questions correctly and thank you for flying with Flightlink

Mohammed says:

Roniquee says:

“The flight was pleasant with courteous and smiling staff! The chocolate coated cashew nuts were just divine! Was shy to ask for a second helping!”

“I flew Flightlink recently with a group from my church. Our church is in Brooklyn, New York. It was my first time in Tanzania and I appreciated learning more about the area from reading the magazine. And the ice cream served on board was really good, too!”

LAST MONTHS ANSWERS: 1. Ikona Wildlife Management Area 2. Rock City 3. Serengeti 4. Old Fort 5. Kariakoo 6. 5 zones 7. Dar es Salaam and Dodoma 8. The Hadzabe 9. Diani 10. Mombasa and Nairobi

Competition terms and conditions: Fulfilment of tickets provision is subject to the availability of seats at the time of booking. The tickets are without charge, but the winner must pay the relevant taxes at the time of ticket issuance. One entry per person. Entrants must be 18 years or over. The decision of the organisers will be final. The competition is not open to employees and their relatives of Flightlink or Land & Marine Publications Ltd. Competition ends 10th January 2025, winners will be announced in the next issue and contacted directly.

40 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

What’s new at Flightlink Take a look at the latest goings-on across our airline

We welcome our new ATR 72 Flightlink is excited to announce the arrival of our brand-new ATR 72 this December. The new aircraft becomes the third of the 72-seater twin engine turboprop in our fleet. This modern aircraft combines comfort, efficiency, and reliability to enhance your travel experience. Get ready for more spacious and seamless journeys across our network.

Self-handling starts in Zanzibar From November 1 this year, Flightlink proudly commenced self-handling operations in Zanzibar. This milestone enhances our ability to deliver seamless and efficient services, ensuring an even better experience for our valued passengers. Fly with us and experience the difference!

Flightlink expands its team We’re thrilled to announce the recruitment and training of 6 new pilots and 12 cabin crew members. This growth reflects our commitment to delivering exceptional service, safety, and comfort on every flight. Welcome aboard the new faces of Flightlink! Flightlink.co.tz | 41

Earn your stripes Flightlink quiz

Chance to win free flights in our competition We know Flightlink customers are smart – you chose to fly with us for a start – but just how smart? Well, here’s the test: 10 questions to occupy your minds during your flight. If you know the answers to them all, we are impressed. However, don’t despair if you don’t because you’ll find all the answers within the articles in this issue of Zebra Stripes. To be in with a chance of winning a pair of return flight tickets to anywhere on our network, email your answers to competitions@landmarine.com along with a picture of yourself holding this issue of Zebra Stripes on your Flightlink flight.

Here are the questions!

What is the Swahili name for the sweet and spicy rice cakes that are such a popular Tanzanian street snack?

2 3

What primate is Jozani Forest on Unguja famous for?

Serengeti was named Africa’s Leading National Park at this year’s World Travel Award. It’s an award the park has won for how many consecutive years?

How many of the Big Five wild animals can be found in Nairobi National Park?

Name two spices added to Zanzibar coffee to give it its special flavour?

5 6

How did Lake Natron get its name?

The Flightlink logo is a map of Africa, but which iconic animal common on the continent does it also resemble?

What percentage of Zanzibar’s marine export products come from seaweed?

What is the name of the island off the south coast of Pemba that is ringed with coral reefs and renowned for snorkelling?

The Zanzibar International Sports Festival launches next year with cycle races, marathons and fun runs, beach soccer tournaments and a tennis competition. In which month does it take place?

Fulfilment of tickets provision is subject to the availability of seats at the time of booking. The tickets are without charge, but the winner must pay the relevant taxes at the time of ticket issuance.

Flightlink.co.tz | 43

Our destinations The Flightlink network

Our growing network includes eight Tanzanian destinations and is now international with the recent additions of Mombasa and Nairobi (planned) in Kenya. Here’s a brief guide to each to help you plan your next trip with Flightlink. Dar es Salaam

Dar es Salaam (meaning ‘city of peace’ in Arabic) is Tanzania’s largest city and its commercial capital. Dar is the third fastest growing city in Africa and home to a thriving arts, music and food culture. It is also a coastal city with beautiful beaches, including Coco Beach, which is known for wealth of beach bars and nightclubs. Soak up the city's bustle at its markets. Kariakoo Market is the pulse of the city's traditional commerce with fresh fruit, vegetables and spices, second-hand clothes and bargains galore. Make an early start to catch the fishermen laden with the night's catch at Kivukoni Fish Market on the waterfront. It's a great place to see daily life and enjoy seafood. For a more tranquil shopping experience head to The Slipway shopping centre overlooking Msasani Bay.

Zanzibar

Zanzibar is an archipelago of more than 47 islands off the east coast of Tanzania. Unguja (also known as Zanzibar Island)‚ Pemba and Mafia are the main islands and attract visitors from all over the world. The islands are known for their rich history, spectacular beaches and diverse marine life. Unguja is just a 20-minute flight from Dar es Salaam and is famous for its

44 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

historic port Stone Town, which is home to a cosmopolitan community shaped by centuries of trade with the Middle East, Europe and Africa, The island is ringed with coral reefs with diverse marine life. An incredible underwater world awaits divers here while kite surfers will love the idyllic conditions of the south-east coast.

Arusha

Arusha in northern Tanzania is the gateway to the world-famous national parks of the ‘Northern Safari Circuit’. It is also the place from where hikers set off to ascend Mount Kilimanjaro. Getting to the top of ‘Kili’, as Africa’s highest peak is affectionately called, is a bucket-list experience for climbers the world over. With close to 760,000 inhabitants‚ Arusha region is one of the most developed in Tanzania‚ not only due to its tourism infrastructure‚ its business community‚ but also because the city serves as home to the diplomatically important East African Community.

Seronera (Serengeti) Dar es Salaam is Tanzania's commercial capital Kehinde Temitope Odutayo / Shutterstock.com

The 'green island' of Pemba is renowned for its pristine beaches

One of Africa’s seven natural wonders, the Serengeti National Park covers an area of over 30,000 sq km and boasts massive wildlife populations, including the Big Five. It is best known for its Great Migration in which millions-strong herds of wildebeest, zebra and antelope move from the Ngorongoro region in the south east‚ westwards into the Serengeti and then north over the border into the Masai Mara and back again in a cyclical search for green pastures to feed on. Lying in wait on this perilous journey are predators including around 4,000 lions.

www.flightlink.co.tz

flightlinktz

Pemba

Pemba‚ often referred to as ‘The Green Island’, is part of the Zanzibar archipelago‚ and is renowned for its lush‚ tropical landscapes‚ including dense forests‚ spice plantations‚ and pristine beaches. The island offers a quieter‚ more authentic experience compared to its larger, more developed Zanzibar Island. Visitors can explore historic ruins‚ vibrant markets‚ and traditional Swahili culture. Pemba is famous for its thriving spice trade‚ particularly cloves. Diving and snorkeling enthusiasts are drawn to the crystal-clear waters surrounding Pemba‚ which host a diverse marine ecosystem‚ including coral reefs.

Kilimanjaro

At 4,985 metres, Mt Kilimanjaro is the highest point in Africa. A guided trek to the top is a bucket-list adventure for hikers worldwide. If you have neither the time nor the inclination for such a challenging endeavour,

the mountain’s lower slopes in Kilimanjaro National Park can be explored on day hikes or bike rides. You’ll discover spectacular biodiversity, wildlife such as elephant, giraffe buffalo as well as a chance to integrate with tribes such as the Chagga and Maasai that call this area home.

Mombasa

Kenya’s oldest city and second largest after Nairobi is the gateway to the magnificent beaches of southern Kenya and the Mombasa National Marine Park. Nearby beaches such as Kilifi‚ Watamu and Diani are among the most beautiful of the East Africa coastline. The cosmopolitan Old Town is a rewarding destination for a walk.

Mwanza

Tanzania’s second city occupies a dramatic section of Lake Victoria’s southern shore with the surrounding hills scattered with gigantic boulders. The busy port is the centre of

Tanzania's second city Mwanza is a launch pad for adventures on Lake Victoria Image: KKFilms _ Shutterstock.com

much of the commerce here and is also the launching pad for boat trips to islands in the lake, including the wildlife-filled Rubondo National Island Park. For more animal adventures, a 90-minute drive will get you to the Western Corridor of Serengeti National Park renowned for its biodiversity and for hosting the Grumeti River crossing, one of the most dramatic stages of the Great Migration.

Nairobi (planned) Nairobi‚ the capital and largest city of Kenya‚ is a dynamic metropolis. It serves as the political‚ economic‚ and cultural centre of Kenya‚ and it's known as the Green City in the Sun due to its pleasant climate and lush greenery. It boasts a mix of modern skyscrapers and colonial-era architecture. It is the only capital city in the world with a national park in it where wildlife roam against a backdrop of the city’s spectacular skyline.

Flightlink.co.tz | 45

Connecting you to Tanzania and beyond

SERENGETI Kogatende Lobo

Gurumeti

Loliondo

Fort Ikoma

Seronera

Ndutu

Serengeti

Nairobi

Mwanza Arusha Kilimanjaro KEY

Mombasa Pemba

Current Destinations (Routes) Serengeti Airstrips Fort Ikoma, Kogatende, Seronera, Loliondo, Tarangire, Lobo, Ndutu, Grumeti New Routes

Zanzibar

Coming soon Nairobi airports Jomo Kenyatta International Airport Wilson International Airport

46 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

Dar es Salaam

Our Fleet Information

Discover the hidden gems of Tanzania with the comfort and efficiency of our ATR72-500 ATR72-500 Twin Engine Turbo Prop Aircraft Embark on a seamless journey through Tanzania’s breathtaking landscapes aboard our twin engine turbo prop ATR72-500 aircraft. Flightlink operates three ATR72-500 in our fleet. This fuel-efficient, spacious, and comfortable twin-engine turboprop aircraft is perfectly suited for exploring the country’s diverse tourist and business destinations. With a strong safety record and a design optimized for

short runways, you can confidently reach even the most remote corners of Tanzania. Our commitment to safety is unwavering, with rigorous crew training and meticulous aircraft maintenance adhering to the highest standards. Relax in our single-class economy cabin, featuring a welcoming and spacious

layout with seats arranged in pairs. Enjoy a smooth and quiet flight, knowing you're contributing to a greener future with our aircraft's low emissions and reduced environmental impact. Choose ATR72-500 for a safe, comfortable, and sustainable travel experience in Tanzania with Flightlink.

Experience our Bushrover! Cessna Grand Caravan 208B G1000 The Cessna Grand Caravan 208B is more than just an aircraft; it’s a rugged explorer, engineered to conquer the vast plains of Serengeti and the Maasai Land. Flightlink operates two Cessna Grand Caravans in our fleet. The aircraft’s exceptional performance allows it

to operate seamlessly from all major airstrips within the Serengeti, including Seronera, Fort Ikoma, Kogatende, Sasakwa, Ndutu, Lobo, and Lake Manyara. Renowned for its safety record, the Grand Caravan boasts reliable turbo prop engines, impressive fuel efficiency, and extended range, making it the preferred choice

for efficient and comfortable safaris. Its robust design and quick turnaround capabilities ensure minimal disruptions to your adventure. Cessna Grand Caravans have spacious cabins with ample legroom and large windows provide passengers with unparalleled comfort and unobstructed views of the savannah and its wildlife.

Flightlink Information

flightlinktz

ATR72-500 Number in fleet: Two Twin-engine turboprop aircraft Passenger capacity: 72 seats Maximum cruising speed: 275 knots per hour (510 km/h)

One Beechcraft 1900C Number in fleet: One Twin-engine turboprop aircraft Passenger capacity: 19 seats Maximum cruising speed: 284 knots per hour (526 km/h)

Cessna Grand Caravan G1000 Number in fleet: Two Single engine turbo prop aircraft Passenger capacity: 13 seats Maximum cruising speed: 185 knots per hour (343 km/h)

www.flightlink.co.tz

Contact us Mezzanine Floor Room 002‚ Oyster Pearl Galleria‚ Chole Road Masaki‚ PO Box 2858, Dar es Salaam‚ Tanzania Email: customerservice@flightlink.co.tz Dar es Salaam 24/7: +255 782 354 450 HQ: +255 22 211 2993 Airport: +255 782 354 448/9

Email: sales@flightlink.co.tz Email: reservations@flightlink.co.tz Email: dar-reservations@flightlink.co.tz

Arusha Airport +255 689 141 356 / +255 757 726 977 Zanzibar Airport

+255 777 747 400

Mombasa Airport +254 715 44 00 82 Email: reservations.mba@flightlink.co.tz Pemba Airport

+255 772 712 123

Flightlink.co.tz | 47

Travel

Information

Reasons to fly with us About us

Established in 2001, Flightlink is a Tanzanian-owned airline, fully licensed and certified to operate in both Tanzania and Kenya. Our core objective is to facilitate convenient travel, bridging the gap between major international airlines and domestic or safari destinations within Tanzania.

Principles

At the heart of our operations are three key principles: safety, punctuality, and exceptional customer service. We are deeply committed to upholding stringent safety standards, ensuring that our passengers reach their destinations both safely and on schedule. Our focus on quality service aims to make every journey with us a memorable experience.

Our Mission

The larger ATR72-500 has a stand up pressurized cabin, 2 pilots with 2 cabin crew

Safety standards Safety Standards are one of Flightlink’s core values‚ and it is the heartbeat of our operations. We are committed to maintaining and improving high levels of safety‚ and to nurturing a safety culture throughout our operations. Our operations conform with EASA‚ FAA‚ ICAO and TCAA standards with strict periodic safety oversights by TCAA.

To provide a superior travel experience by delivering safe, on-time flights, exceptional customer service, and innovative solutions, while prioritizing the welfare of our passengers and employees and upholding the highest standards of environmental sustainability.

Flightlink has earned its reputation for operating most environmental and fuel efficient regional aircrafts (ATR72-500‚ Twin Engine Turbo Prop) with generous stand up cabin space whose result are comfort and safety that translate into our success story and market share.

Our Vision

Our Safety Management System (SMS) is guided by International Civil Aviation Organization (ICAO) standards and its recommended practices. It fully meets and approved by the regulatory requirements of the Tanzania Civil Aviation Authority (TCAA).

To be the Tanzanian leader in safe, punctual, and efficient air travel, setting the industry standard through rigorous safety measures, advanced operational practices, and unwavering commitment to customer satisfaction.

48 | Zebra Stripes inflight magazine

1 pc of 20Kg check in baggage allowance free of charge 5Kg hand baggage allowance Free on board snacks and drinks on selected routes Book, pay and check in online with our Flightlink App We accept payment with all major currencies and cards LIPA number and mobile payment accepted Convenient and timely connections to the tourism circuits Safe, reliable and on-time performance Flightlink App (iOS and Android) guaranteed 5% discount