7.06.2012

Volume 32, No.14

THE

NEWSPAPER

OF

THE

CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1 9 7 9

BY: Dan Castro, BPS Culinary

June 22, 2012 The Manipulation of Words

It is a beautiful thing to see when people exhibit the power to manipulate words beautifully. Tonight, The Word, a club that focuses on poetry did just that. Throughout the night, poems which possessed powers varying from patriotic and sentimental were recited by students. In addition to student’s featured poems, Gina Rae Foster, a guest poet from Lehman College shared poems from her new book “Beautiful Lacerations”. The title was inspired from a hospital visit after she cut open her finger with a tomato can. The night itself, despite the mix of emotions that swirled around the room, became serene as the night went on with students slouching back in their chairs while listening to the beauty of the words coming out of each poet.

This night was a beautiful start to the upcoming Stars and Stripes weekend.

June 23, 2012 Fireworks and Dance

A profound thought came to me moments before the fireworks show began: Three years ago, I started my education at The Culinary Institute of America. Comparing the Stars and Stripes events from the years past, nothing has changed except for the people. To kick off the night, students, staff, and Saturday night patrons at American Bounty or Escoffier visited Anton Plaza and marveled at the fireworks.

Following the event was the dance sponsored by SPICE. The pop hits played throughout the night complemented the jovial atmosphere around Anton Plaza, as students and younger children danced alike.

June 24, 2012 Block Party

Photos By: Bianca Swanepoel

The positive atmosphere from the dance carried on to the block party. Entering the Rosenthal Lawn, one is greeted by smoke from the barbeque which instantly drove students hungry. For six dollars, it was possible to get Bulgogi (Korean Shortribs), a spicy pork taco from the Korean Society, and a full meal with a choice of protein and two sides (Ribs, Macaroni and Cheese, and Coleslaw in my case) from the Black Culinarian Society. If this was

not enough, booths from clubs and Resident Life were also present as Rosenthal Hall handed out “Rosie Pops” which featured flavors such as cherry, lemonade and gingerlime, the Lodges handed out frozen banana pops with accompaniments such as chocolates and caramel. Several clubs joined in as well with the Gourmet Society handing out floats with their homemade orange and root beer sodas, and Student Government handing out complimentary patriotic popsicle sticks.

To burn off the energy from all the food consumption, a large bounce house was present. Some completed the CULINARY CULTURE

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FOOD & BEVERAGE

CHAPTER Twenty: ON CAMPUS

course smoothly, while some struggled throughout. All results aside, there were happy faces around, stating friendly competition. Another activity present was the “Pie a RA” campaign, where all proceeds were used to contribute to a care package. Here, residents and friends of Resident Assistants got their “revenge” by smearing whipped cream on their faces. In this case, revenge was not best served cold but frothy and light, with a positive attitude on the RA’s parts. In addition, Student Government gave the students a chance to have their name drawn to take a shot at taking one of the two piñatas (and free candy.) Much like the “Pie a RA” event, this gave a chance for students to release their pent up aggression, as crazily advertised.

To finish the event, SPICE held a hotdog-eating contest, with the winners getting Mets tickets to their game of choice. As an audience member yelled out “World Series”, some students countered with disagreement. As the contest went on, there were several eating strategies among each contestant: hotdogs first, buns last; altogether; or dipping buns in water (a familiar strategy in Nathan’s Hotdog Eating Competitions.) In the end, the victor took her last sip of water, and raised her hands in victory.

As tents started to fold up, it was clear to say that everyone who was present at the Stars and Stripes block party had a great time, as they were accompanied by great food and company, two of life’s greatest essentials.

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Le Marche: Che Bella!

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Culinary Tunes in Chelsea

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T is for...

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Editorial

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

June 14, 2012

PUBLISHER

The Student Affairs Division

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Jocelynn M. Neri

LAYOUT EDITOR

Jacqueline Palmer

ADVERTISING MANAGER

Sue Haug

CONTRIBUTORS

Chef Freddy Brash Chef Greg Zifchak

Duane Brown Dan Castro Eric Jeffay Eric Jenkins Liza Kassim Matthew Keen

Amie Valpone Josh Venne Laura Glen Aubrey King

Breeana Quinones Bianca Swanepoel Maureen Costura Jeanne Casagrande

COMPACT

La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion.

Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize.

Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

FOOD REVIEW POLICY

As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

LA PAPILLOTE

From the Editor’s Desk

On my trip to Seattle I already have started to miss the Ports of the Bay. I have been visiting the farms in the area of Port Townsen: Mystery Bay Goatfarm, a Gooeyduck farm, Finnriver, Hamma Hamma oyster farm.

Through my tour of the west I have found such a passion. A passion for craft that is rare and so important. They all purvey the food from their small farms and outlands to restaurants across Seattle and the Pacific. The most intriguing thing about these farms is not that they have such an endless and high demand for their gooey duck or cider. Nothing deters these farmers which is a quality I hope to strengthen in my own character.

I find their motivation endlessly refreshing and absolutely intriguing. Here in the Ports of Washington, off of the Puget, they are doing the most fascinating things. For them it is not just about sending out a commodity, but creating a new way of selling. They are selling with the intent to sustain. Whether it be of the ocean, ecology, salmon, or the different species; they practice methods of farming and development to sustain and preserve. To them, the ecology is the most important asset and without maintaining it properly will detriment the structure of all agriculture business. It is an interesting and developmental dynamic here that I hope more agriculture and viticulturists adopt it on the East coast.

On another note, I hope everyone at CIA is enjoying the summer sun. I realize just how good I have had it in the Northeast; it is very cloudy and gloomy here! Have a fun and safe break this July and make sure to make the most of every day. It won’t be long before we are back in the swing of things!

With love & fire,

EDITORIAL POLICY

La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.

Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Jocelynn M. Neri, Editor-In-Chief at LaPapillote@mycia.net

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LETTERS POLICY

Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@ mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

Jacqueline Palmer (Layout Editor) jumprun@ live.com

Eric Jeffay (Copy Editor) EJ737745@ mycia.net

Blayre Miller (Copy Editor) BM680250@ mycia.net

Dan Castro (Photographer)

daniel.castro210@ gmail.com

Culinary Culture

July 6, 2012

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CHAPTER Twenty: Start your cutting board!!!!

I have heard a common theme around campus that our Chefs of the Future do not know how to set up their stations, and I am curious as to how this happens. The students spend 28 days in Culinary Fundamentals doing just that, day after day, so they should know the key importance of having an organized, consistent way of setting up a station.

When I first heard this from other Chef Instructors, I thought that it could be isolated incidents, but then I heard through the grapevine about the inconsistency more and more. I decided that enough is enough. Have students been forgetting the most important fundamentals?

I have worked with so many cooks in my time and have seen everything.

First, there was Jimmy, a CIA graduate that became a Sous Chef. He came to work at a French restaurant in the city, where I was working as Head Chef.

First, Jimmy set up his station: cutting board, plastics for waste, tasting spoons, and his personal knives. When he was ready to gather mise en place, I watched him eagerly.

Then you have my friend Raj, who is very sloppy, but the best a la minute cook you ever saw behind the line.

Raj never fired a dish before its time; the food always got to the window when the Sous Chef called for it.

My other friend Danny was a little all over the place, but when the kitchen was in the weeds he was able to pull a grilled Dover Sole out of his hat and get it to the pass.

Hernando was a little like me. We are neat freaks, which sometimes can hamper you and slow you down on the line (compulsion and obsessiveness can’t get you too far). Most of the time, when we are talking about focusing on the food, I wish I could let that go and worry more about the flavor.

Sometimes it is more important to not work too far ahead.

There is always that underlying fear though, of being behind, that can always end up being a liability in this business.

I once worked with a Pastry Chef from Alsace, whose

BY:CHEF FREDDY BRASH, CIA Instructor

Photo provided by: Chef Brash

name was Sylvain. He prepared, on an average, hundred and fifty desserts and a la carte soufflé’s each night without flinching an eye. He had a tough look to him, and was very dedicated and focused. Sometimes he was so intense that the waiters became scared of him. By far, he was the most talented Pastry Chef I have ever worked with. He was a master craftsman at making tatin, macarons and pulled sugar.

When I was working under Chef Loic Avril, I was astounded at how meticulous he worked. His station was clean orderly as well and he was a master at a la minute cooking. I remember how he cut salmon. He had these long slender fingers that he would run along the salmon fillet after cutting like a sculptor.

Renato Violante, a cook I once was on the line with, may

Leadership

and

not have been a talented cook by our standards because of his disorganization, but put a block of ice in front of him and he could create amazing ice masterpieces. Imagine mermaids out of ice for our buffet dinners!

Then there was Laurent who has moved up to being a 3 star Chef. I had the opportunity to work with him when he was a Chef de Partie with Alain Ducasse. Laurent worked as tournant, so he had to be fluent in every station, and he was. He was, and still is, a fearless and determined hard worker. He was an avid cyclist in the afternoon during our breaks; never stopped. I knew Laurent would be a big Chef one day.

So chefs, I think it is important to realize that we all have different personalities and if you have been to therapy like me, know that we cannot change that. Who we encounter along our career is what makes it so dynamic. It is always important, personalities aside, to realize that not knowing how to set up a station is unacceptable.

We will all cook different and hopefully develop a true style but something has to be constant in order to produce consistently high quality food and that is what we are readily working with: your station and tools.

In the past I have been to career fair and chefs will comment if you have three externs in the kitchen from different schools, two are lost and don’t have a clue, but a CIA extern will get to the station, set it up correctly, and then will take on one task at a time.

Chefs of the future we are losing this; passion will make the food flavorful, perspiration will get the job done but pride and efficiency will show that you are a CIA student.

I hope that I have helped push a student to go to class tomorrow and set up that station. If so, then I have succeeded.

Have a great vacation chefs!

Ethics

BY: Robert Johnson, BPS Professor of Leadership and Ethics and History and Cultures of the Americas

Can you name the CIA’s five core values? How about just two of them? Leadership and Ethics are not just two of our core values at the CIA, but also comprise the title of one of the Business Management electives in the BPS program.

Leadership & Ethics is a student directed class that requires the students to confront the intersection of leadership and ethics in business as they examine the skills needed for effective leadership, the ethical dilemmas of leadership, and the impact decision making has upon staff morale, and personal integrity in a business environment.

What is leadership? Can you lead? These are questions the students must ultimately answer for themselves. In the

In this class the instructor serves as a facilitator to help guide the students in matters related to leadership and ethics.

Rather than providing a checklist for how to be a leader or ethical, the professor helps the students realize that issues related to ethics and leadership are matters that we all struggle with throughout our lives.

Together we review real-life situations and dilemmas in an effort to answer the question, what’s the right thing to do? I often observe students in class make connections as they deliberate over what’s right vs. what’s quick and easy.

Examples of leaders abound in this class from Graphic provided by: leadingincontext.com industry leaders such as J.W. Marriott, Danny Meyer, Ben Leadership & Ethics course the students are expected Cohen and Jerry Greenfield, who illustrate how one to, among other things, devise ethical guidelines for can be successful in business while maintaining strong their professional careers, identify and assess the ethical standards, to world leaders such as Abraham components of an ethically run business, and develop Lincoln and Mohandas K. Gandhi who have inspired an understanding of their own leadership preferences generations. It is crucial that students understand that and the ways that this impacts their development as leaders must possess a strong moral compass. The leaders in the hospitality industry. belief that in business anything goes is misguided,

Students are confronted with the question or and can have serious consequences for students’ whether people are born leaders, or are they made professional careers. Why be ethical? Is there a place leaders by experience and the development of certain for ethics in business? These are basic questions with traits that are associated with leadership such as enormous implications. Financial risks, reputation integrity, vitality, confidence, humility, and the ability and competitive advantage, employee trust, loyalty, to communicate effectively, which means not only commitment and initiative, as well as potential legal the ability to speak and write clearly, but to be able problems are all reasons for contemporary business to listen effectively as well. Thus the recognition and students to be concerned with business ethics. Since development of specific traits that leaders possess businesses are ultimately created by human beings, becomes an integral component of the class as the we cannot escape responsibility for the operation of students are forced to confront Socrates’ claim that these enterprises. Life is choice, and the students “the unexamined life is not worth living.” in Leadership & Ethics are encouraged to make the The course begins with the belief that all right choice about how to conduct their business students have the capacity for leadership, and thus affairs. The comments, student presentations, and are able to see leadership as an attainable ideal. questions that arise in class lead me to firmly believe Consequently students are treated as active learners that today’s students are tomorrow’s leaders, and who are engaged in a dynamic process of thinking that there is hope for our collective future because and questioning. Through this they can develop the our students will lead the way. necessary intellectual skills to think for themselves.

LA PAPILLOTE

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Culinary Tunes in Chelsea

BY: Robert Flowers, AOS Culinary The melody of the music studio we call the kitchen has been proclaimed throughout the Celsea Market and has caught the attention of Ken Masur, the artistic director of the Chelsea Music Festival. The Chelsea Music Festival is comprised of a series of events in celebration of the creative spirit that pervades the Chelsea district of lower Manhattan, showcasing the imaginative works of numerous artists from within all aspects of the fine arts spectrum. This year, the festival celebrated more specifically the birth of Claude Debussy, a French composer, lending to the rest of the festival a theme which explored mutual inspirations among the French and Japanese art forms- musical, visual and culinary.

This year’s festival was the first ever to feature the culinary arts in such detail with great depth and attention. In addition to musicians and composers and visual artists, Chef Lance Nitahara stood on the forefront of the happenings. Lance Nitahara is a chef of many accolades, having graduated with honors from our beloved Culinary Institute with a bachelor’s degree. He is an ACF Certified Executive Chef and a Certified Pastry Culinarian. He has won several competitions and medals. Recent achievements include victory on the Food Network’s “Chopped” and an appearance on “Iron Chef America” as sous chef to Madison Cowan. He now teaches as a Chef Instructor

at Flint Hills Technical College in Kansas.

With the assistance of students recruited from his alma mater, including myself, Chef Lance plated dishes that, in collaboration with the event’s theme, displayed the marriage between French and Japanese cuisines. His dishes weren’t the modern idea of “fusion” preparing Japanese cuisine via French technique; but he tactfully wedded elements of each cuisine that complemented the other, with little assistance from the powers vested in molecular gastronomy, utilizing such techniques as sous vide and gelatin consomme.

The menu was built from such dishes as Ahi Tataki nicoise: a composed salad of lightly seared tuna squares lying beside konbu croquets, bias cut haricot verts, and a tomato jam, dotted with miniature black olives, to be draped in the bursting creaminess of a poached quail egg; kabayaki pork belly, slow cooked as confit, seared and glazed in the soy-based kabayaki sauce, and tied to a streak of salsify puree by a nest of chocroute onion ribbons; and sakura and umeshu panacotta, flush with the blushing flavors of cherry blossom, lightened by a pillowy dollop of Goma (black sesame seed) crème fraiche, piqued by the addition of a Shichimi phyllo crisp. The selections beautifully mirrored each night’s specific theme.

The beauty of catering the Chelsea Music Festival was nestled in the “kitchens” proximity to the musical performances. When working in kitchens on campus, I often crave the rhythmic momentum provided by

music. I have yet to find a chef that allows music of any kind, even singing or humming, in his or her kitchen (with the exception of Chef McCue’s playlist). At the festival, as we prepared foods for the receptions, the sound of our knives drumming against the cutting board, the applause of the searing fish, and the humming of the oven were harmonized by the more conventional tune of the strumming of a violin, the tap of the piano keys, the breath of the flute, and the plucking of the koto strings. There was peace in the waves of music and the aromas of the French and Japanese kitchens that pervaded the lungs.

It was a delightful opportunity to work with Chef Lance Nitahara and in such an atmosphere. He is a forgiving and amiable individual, inspiring learning every step of the way. He urged his assistants to taste everything, not just the dishes or components they were working on, but all that could possibly be tasted.

He offered exposure to the Japanese culture and joyfully accepted any questions. It was also fun to hear him remember his times at the CIA. The Chelsea Music Festival, I learned, is much more than music. It is a realization of the arts and is on the rise. There are great things in store on CMF’s horizon. The Festival, moreover, shines light on the growing interest in our craft. As it aims to exalt cuisine, the Chelsea Music Festival, itself, will be exalted. From food and wine to musical staff-and-bar lines, cheers to the Chelsea Music Festival.

Club Forum: Culinary Notes BY:Eric Jenkins, BPS Culinary “Without music, life would be a mistake.” ~ Friedrich Nietzsche At the Culinary Institute of America we have a variety of clubs. Some for tasting Wines (Bacchus Wine Society), for brewing beer (Brew Club), poetry (The Word), clubs for Veterans (CIA Veterans Association & Auxiliary) and, of course clubs for food (Gourmet Society, Charcuterie, Baking and Pastry Society, Fair Trade, Modernist Cuisine Society and Slow Food).

Even though we have a singing club on campus (The Singing Society), a club has been formed that focuses on the instruments as well as the singing aspect and it is affectionately known as Culinary Notes.

Culinary Notes mission statement: “Culinary Notes is comprised of individuals who take an active interest and bring together a multitude of music diversity by the love and interest in the musical arts. We uphold the belief of increasing awareness for

the musical arts and diversity in music. We exist to provide a meeting ground for music lovers and aid in appreciation for the musical arts.”

The club is only a few months old, but they have already held an event and participated in another.

Culinary Notes participated in the successful A Taste of the CIA: World Diversity Festival in May and also hosted a Coffee House. This event showcased the diverse talent of students on our campus. There were a few performers, but two that stood out were Lea Aclan, who is also the President of the club, and Natalie Cyran, a baking and pastry student. Lea plays several instruments including the piano and violin and Natalie plays the guitar and sings just as well as she plays. Upcoming events for the club is a Summer Fundraising Concert on August 12th at 8 PM to buy more instruments for the school. Admission is free, but if you like what you see and hear, please donate!

AMERICANA

BY: DAN CASTRO, BPS Culinary, Photographer

Commonly known as the Fourth of July, Independence Day is a federal holiday that commemorates the adoption of the Declaration of Independence. As this day falls during the summer season, it is optimal for many to throw barbecues and picnics as these are the two best mediums to entertain a large quantity of guests.

The tradition of barbecue dates back to the Caribbean where it was utilized as a method of preservation by building small and smoky fires, preventing insects from spoiling the food. This process evolved in the 17th century, as Europeans slowly migrated to the area that is now known as “The South”, as animals such as pigs and cattle were imported making them the primary source of meat for their barbecues.

Today, barbecue styles vary from region to region.

For example, Carolina Barbecue uses pork as its primary protein, rubbed with a spice mixture and based with a spice and vinegar mixture during the smoking process.

The concept of a picnic is equivalent

to a potluck where “each person present contributed a share of the provisions.”

Today, it is not only food that is contributed to these parties, but entertainment as well.

For instance, one of the earliest picnics occurred in England, where they were defined as “medieval hunting Picnic basket. Photo by ifood.tv feasts.” Later on, authors such as Charles Dickens and Jane Austen used picnics as a place to share their literature during the Victorian Era. Today, picnics are reduced down to gatherings where people bring a random assortment of items such as fruit platters, bowls of potato salad or coleslaw and a pack of hotdogs and buns to grill, while enjoying the company of their friends.

As history consistently repeats itself and evolves simultaneously, the concepts of barbecuing and picnicking become one in today’s pop culture.

In celebration of Independence day, block parties are thrown, rejoicing the freedom that the United States fought, and to this day consistently fights for. The cheerful faces, company of people and the bounty of food is meant to celebrate this joyous occasion, a thanksgiving of sorts.

In addition to Lea, the other officers are Vice President Chris Rumley, Treasurer Michael Wright, and Secretary Jameson Brown. As Lea has put it, “Culinary Notes is a general music club for anyone who loves music. It’s a way for people on campus to meet up and discover other people who love music.

Meetings are usually a jam and music sharing session that encompasses all types of music. Everyone is diverse and ranges from music players to soprano singers. Anyone is welcome to come, even if you don’t play or sing. Without an audience, there would be no performers.” Meetings are on Sundays at 9:15 PM at the SRC multi-purpose room. You can contact the Club at their email - culinarynotes@mycia.net.

“One good thing about music, when it hits you, you feel no pain.” ~ Bob Marley

July 6, 2012

ON CAMPUS

Le Marche: Che Bella!

BY: Giulianna Galiano, BPS Culinary Le Marche. Many have yet to hear about this region in Italy. After spending a week on the East Coast representing The Culinary Institute of America, I started to wonder why Americans and Italians don’t bother to tour through Marche. Then, I finally figured it out- Le Marche is Italy’s best kept secret- a world wonder, a gem that is only present to those who yearn to seek it. Marche, a land of hills, mountains and sea all woven into one land. A Tuscan-esque scenery meshed with Southern flare and fried olives from Ascoli. A diverse region full of vast Italian dialect and aquamarine décor. The atmosphere of this ground is relaxing, humble and welcoming. For these are the exact reasons why I am determined to market this region by encouraging people to travel here. 2012 seems to be the start of tourism in Le Marche. I am the prime example of how this mystical land can change an outsider’s way of life.

My story begins with an exciting phone call that I had received upon returning from my Food, Wine and Agriculture trip to Italy (how ironic) in March with the Bachelor’s program at The Culinary Institute of America. I had applied for the GRI scholarship (Gruppo Ristoratori Italiani) earlier that month. The scholarship description read as follows: “This year, the students will travel to the Le Marche region in Italy where they will be hosted by Domodimonti, a boutique winery located in the picturesque countryside of Montefiore dell’Aso in Le Marche, Italy. The scholars will learn about the production processes at Domodimonti, will visit the Pastificio Spinosi for an exclusive pasta making session with the owner of the famous Campofiore pasta, Vincenzo Spinosi. They will also visit the Agostini olive oil mill, producer of the award winning extra virgin olive oils followed by educational seminars on the production of the oil, a working farm and restaurant, Lucio Pompili’s Symposium, and world renowned Varnelli Distillery.”

Village Siena, a local winery in Tuscany. Italy.

Photo by yogaretreatsinternational.com

I never would have thought that the Financial Aid office would have selected me since I had just been in Italy studying food and wine for three weeks.

Yet, my hard work paid off and I was accepted into the program. Anxious, bewildered, confused and appreciative were all of the emotions I had experienced knowing that I’d be traveling to my roots once more this year. This trip changed my perspective on life. I am now convinced that I need to start cherishing the meaning behind a simplistic lifestyle.

How did I become so lucky to take on this journey?

I kept asking myself this question over and over again when I had returned to New York. You know that you miss a place dearly and consider it your second home when you feel an overwhelmed state of depression after the trip. I don’t mean it in a bad way; believe me I am very fortunate to live in The United States of America. But when would I ever ride a van through the hills of Italy, sing and dance with families near the beach, sip wine course after course and bond with Italians who didn’t know English well, but still managed to hold conversations? Never again would I

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experience the same exact trip, and that is why I think that everyone should treasure the personal connection traveling creates between humans and foreign terroir.

The friends I had made on the trip are wonderful leaders in the food industry. There were a total of seven of us including myself, Erica Sabalones (a Baking and Pastry major here at The Culinary), Chris Struck ( Johnson and Wales graduate), Stirling Walter (a hospitality major at San Diego State University), Nick Weidenbach (a hospitality major from Rochester Institute of Technology), Chelsea Lee Gallup (a Cornell student studying viniculture) and Ronald Gargani (soon attending the University of Pittsburgh). Our diverse backgrounds made for interesting conversations regarding food, wine and foreign languages (Italian, French and Spanish). We all participated in a variety of team building exercises within the kitchen and dining room including challenging one another in a cooking competition, tasting olive oil and selecting specific wines for multiple courses at dinner. Every night, we would stay up as late as possible to absorb the culture and timelessness of the land in Marche, for we didn’t want to miss a single second on this week long adventure.

I encourage all of you (prospective students and current students) to keep your eyes out for these scholarship programs. It’s as easy as filling out an application, writing a short essay and possibly asking for two letters of recommendation. This trip to Italy would have cost me over $7,000 and I received this once in a lifetime opportunity for free. Imagine what studying, good grades and determination in the hospitality field can do to a student. For me, I cherish my time at the CIA for all of these connections and voyages. This scholarship has influenced me to study Italian food and wine after I graduate college. What more could I ask for? It’s comforting knowing that I have selected a career path which not only reflects my heritage, but reminds me of the wonderful people and food I encountered in Italy.

Getting Fit For Summer

BY:Aubrey King, , BPS Culinary The wafting aroma of French fries and chicken bacon clubs that perfumes the gym is a reminder that we are students at a culinary school. I always thought it was funny that I could smell ground beef sizzling on a flat top when I am in the aerobics room.

It is a temptation to give up on your workout and down some burgers. The last thing anyone wants to do after eight hours of running around a hot kitchen is put on running shoes and slowly walk to the gym to workout. The same goes for the bachelor’s. It is hard to get motivated to move around after sitting for six hours in class. Having motivation to workout is not easy. The same can be said about getting through the classes at CIA, but we do it. If we can do that, we can surely get through a simple workout. For some people, working out is at the bottom of their to-do list.

Whether you love to get physical or you are thinking about hopping on the excersising bandwagon for some summer shape-up, these are just a few little tips to get you through:

when I run; especially the stress from school.

Working out is much more than a good sweat, it’s psychological therapy If you haven’t yet adopted a love for working out, you might not understand why people go everyday.

The truth is, they are most likely going because they are addicted to the rush of endorphins they receive after each workout. It’s a way to transfer stress from the body. Quite frankly, I can feel stress drip off my body

Try a new sport I was a cyclist before I went to CIA so I had never thought about running. Thinking that I couldn’t physically run more than one mile made me steer clear of it. When I started to run little by little, it was exhilarating. Everyday was a new chance to build my endurance. Trying a sport you have never done before will make it much more exciting. The new muscle movements and routine is extraordinary for your body.

1.

Sign up for a race A friend and I signed up for the Brooklyn Half Marathon three months after starting the AOS program. We followed Hal Higdon’s 4-month half marathon training plan, gave each other motivation and finished the race in great time. Before that half marathon the most I had ever run was 3 miles. After that race I became addicted to running; I now run daily. Signing up for a race of some sort gives you a goal to look forward to. It gives you motivation to train and holds you accountable to keep it up.

I personally don’t like having a workout buddy, but many of my friends have found a lot of success to having a workout buddy. They hold you accountable and give you motivation. Be careful, if your workout buddy does not like to sweat they will most likely bring you down. Try working out with someone who loves pushing the limits more than you.

2.

3.

If you are looking into losing weight or getting toned, changing your workout routines will keep your body guessing.

4. Working out is much more than the elliptical I would detest working out if all I ever did was spend an hour on an elliptical and 20 minutes of abs everyday. In order to continuously like going to the gym, you have to change up your routine. Not only for your body to work different muscles, but to keep your brain from slipping into a trance-like schedule.

Use the internet for help I seek new workout ideas from various websites every week.

For running: www.runnersworld.com.

For workouts: www.fitsugar.com www. womenshealthmag.com or www.menshealthmag.com.

For high intensity fast workouts: www.bodyrock.tv. You can also try complete programs like Beach Body or P90x.

Which you can find online too.

The most important fitness fact I have learned over the years is that it is not about working out to look good, but to feel good. Mentally and physically.

I have watched many students at school fight the traditional norm of gaining weight at culinary school and lose weight. It is inspiring and amazing how much it changes their attitude and confidence. It is never too late to start, nor too late to try something new!

5.

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6

LA PAPILLOTE

CENTER SPREAD

BY: Simeom Bittman, AOS Culinary Arts It is a sunny day in the backyard as kids are running around the shrubs and picnic tables; the smell of sweet hickory smoke from the barbie is wafting through the air. You put a plastic cup to your lips and take a long refreshing sip of a cold one. The conversation is loose and fun. The spread on the table looks fantastic; it is replete with potato salad, coleslaw, grilled corn, and best of all, meat! You, my friend, are at a classic American cookout; an ageold American tradition of bringing food and people together.

It is a funny thing though, that this great American cookout may not be so American after all.

Yes, it is true that North America has definitely embraced the cookout regardless of its origin.

Today, 72% of Americans have a grill in their backyard or tucked away in the garage.

However, it was not in the South or the Mid-West where cookout originated, though immigrants embraced it there originally. It actually all started in Jamaica.

In the 1500’s, Columbus and other travelers encountered tribes in the Caribbean (more specifically in the area of Jamaica) that had been cooking fish and cattle on wooden frames built over open fire. The name given to this device by the natives was “barbacoa”, which is now known as “barbecue”, “BBQ”, and “Barbie”, among other nicknames. The barbacoa could grill things quickly or smoke them slowly.

Jamaicans who stayed in the Caribbean eventually created the cooking method known as jerk.

Many immigrants who left made their way into North America, taking these food traditions with them.

Their cooking style spread like fire throughout the American South. It was prevalent in Texas, where African American, Hispanic, and German immigrants refined their own styles of the ‘cue. The Creoles eventually picked up on the trend (and they know what’s up when it comes to food). In Kansas City, Utah, the barbie was jazzed up…literally. In the 1930’s, African American cooking expertise and jazz music evolved side by side, intermingling bluesy jazz riffs with tender slabs of ribs, fries cooked in lard, and strongly seasoned sausage. In Memphis, pulled pork slathered in a sweet and spicy barbecue sauce emerged. Kentucky’s

bourbon-marinated sirloin has also become well known. Now, every state from Massachusetts to California has a special summer barbecue dish.

became an American institution in this decade. It is difficult to know why it happened then. It could have been Henry Ford’s invention of coal eventually turned into a heat source for the barbeque in the 20’s, combined with the mass production of the first portable and inexpensive grill, the Weber, in the late 40’s. It is also believed that it could have been the advent of suburbia after World War II. Eventually, it certainly became weekend down time perfect for hanging out in the yard with friends, family and kids over some fuel-doused coals.

Sadly, the quality of product coming off of the grills back then was usually not amazing.

Frozen burger patties, cheap dogs, and white buns were commonplace; you could say they still are. If you have already taken Gastronomy, you may have realized that many Americans have a particular habit of creating and consuming food like this. However, there are pit masters who travel around the country competing for the top spots in the barbecued meat world.

Now that we know a little about the history of Barbeque, let us talk about how the event emerged through a little thing called Southern Hospitality. This refers to the kindness of people from southern North America. The southerners loved to host giant parties for all their family and neighbors.

When Barbecue came to town, they started hosting gigantic ox and pig roasts. The great American cookout was born through this. Other parts of the West and South started having Ox Roasts, followed by fireworks, races, and square dancing. It was just good fun for the whole family.

No matter where it originated, or how it changed and spread, the thing that gave the cookout a special place in the hearts of Americans was the gathering of people to enjoy the summer with Photos and Graphics Provide By: Simeom Bittman some smoky meat, buttered corn, perhaps a little creamy coleslaw, In the 1950’s, North American summer cuisine was majorly affected and potato salad, all served up on a by barbecue. Grilling and barbecuing paper plate. The Great American cookout was, and still is, fun.

July 6, 2012

7

BY: ANNA FROST, AOS Baking and Pastry While cooking over an open fire is as age-less as the human race, camping as a leisure activity gained great popularity in the early 1900s. Shifting from a way of life to a relaxing break from civilization, from rugged mountain men to families and groups of city boys and girls, the invention of a dessert to enjoy around the campfire was quite inevitable.

Since then, campfire treats have evolved several times over, giving those gathered around a fire pit this summer plenty of options for satisfying their sweet tooth in the wild.

Broadly recognized as the original and quintessential dessert for camping trips, bonfires, backyard grills and even microwaves, the s’more reaches almost as far back as the tradition of camping itself. During the early 1900’s, groups such as the Girl Scouts, Boy Scouts, YMCA, YWCA, and Campfire Boys and Girls began seeking refuge from post-Industrial Revolution urban society by journeying into nature. Introducing city youth, more accustomed to a concrete jungle, to the beauty of untamed wilderness was a means of relaxing, as well as building character. From backpacking expeditions to established summer camps, these groups pioneered the trend of modern camping, as well as inventing many fireside treats we now take for granted. While there is no exact person or date for it’s creation, the first printed mention of s’mores exists in a 1927 Girl Scout handbook titled “Tramping and Trailing with the Girl Scouts”.

The recipe, titled “Some More” was contributed by Loretta Scott Crew reads, “Toast two marshmallows over the coals to a crisp gooey state and then put them inside a graham cracker and chocolate bar sandwich.” Over the past 80 years of enjoying this sticky, delicious marshmallow treat, the only aspect changed from the traditional recipe is the name, probably shortened in order to convey the need for another as quickly as possible.

However this is not to discount the many variations which have sprouted from the original, for indeed the popular flavor profile of the s’more has received many welcome twists. Many people trade or add ingredients, making their own family tradition out of s’mores. Instead of a milk chocolate bar, other candy bars like Reese’s Cups, Peppermint Patties, or Snickers can be used to add different flavors and textures. Others prefer to spread peanut butter, nutella, or even jam on the graham cracker before adding the chocolate and marshmallow. Finally, the graham cracker can be traded for cookies, most

grilled banan split from campfire Photo By: mnn.com

popularly chocolate chip, oatmeal, or even a storebought favorite.

Primarily ‘kid-friendly’, the possibilities hardly stop there. Adults looking to satisfy nostalgia with a slightly more sophisticated treat have made many types of ‘gourmet’ s’mores, enough to send any foodie into a head-over-heeled swoon. For your drooling pleasure, a few examples include: Mexican-inspired s’mores with cinnamon graham crackers, chile-infused dark chocolate; gingerbread spice graham crackers with Ghirardelli’s caramelfilled chocolate squares; dark chocolate and fresh raspberries or strawberries. With s’mores there are no limits, only satiated sweet teeth and sticky fingers.

An experience that reaches hearts of all ages, there is no doubt to the delight this dessert provides on a camping trip.

While the realm of s’more is vast, it is only part of the broad category of campfire desserts.

Decades of families and troops of scouts exploring the great outdoors brought about these clever items.

Armed with aluminum foil and a few ingredients, many other simple and scrumptious delights are within one’s power of creation. While generally the use of cake mixes or canned Pillsbury goods are forbidden in my kitchen, the convenience they provide in the capacity of camp cooking is worth some rule bending. Carting along raw ingredients like flour and eggs is cumbersome unless you are camping in an RV, which is more akin to dragging

one’s house into the middle of a forest than actually camping. In the interest of choosing of the lesser evil, sacrificing the ‘from scratch’ soapbox for a moment in the interest of a truly tasty camping treat is entirely worth it.

With just a mixing bowl and spoon, a box of cake or muffin mix, and a bag of oranges, camping cake was born. Starting by cutting the top third of the orange off and hollowing out the center, leaving a thin layer of fruit on the sides, the batter is poured into the orange. The top is replaced and the whole orange is tightly wrapped in aluminum and tossed into the hottest part of the coals. Fifteen to twenty minutes later, the foil wrappers are opened to find a fully baked, slightly orange-infused cake. Not only an unexpected treat that kids will love, but is individually portioned and is eaten right from the orange.

Hand pies or turnovers are also popular desserts, even outside the camping capacity, but their individual size and ease of eating without proper table settings make them well suited for the great outdoors. To the end of spending less time mixing dough and more time hiking, Pillsbury has been kind enough to provide our society with portable tubes of dough to toss into a cooler. To make unforgettable hand pies, place fruit, mixed with a little sugar or maple syrup, on one half of thinly stretched biscuit dough. Fold over and pinch seams to encase the fruit completely in and, if you are feeling ambitious, sprinkle some cinnamon sugar on top. Wrap well in aluminum foil and place in the coals of the fire. Sweet success will arrive shortly in the form of a flaky crust wrapped around hot, juicy fruit. Depending on the season, one can enjoy this with several types of fruit – peaches in the summer, apples for the fall, rhubarb and strawberry in the spring – endless variations will keep this versatile treat from becoming boring.

While there are several other concoctions available to the avid camping treat connoisseur, what make up the majority of outdoor desserts.

Easily executed with minimal supplies, they provide a sweet reward to the modern explorer after a long day of hiking, climbing or relaxing. When one extends a fluffy marshmallow over the fire, or buries a foiled hand pie in the coals, they join the millions of Americans who take part in the long-standing tradition of retreating to the great outdoors for a Mother Nature fix and simply delicious food.

Getting the Most . . .

BY: Ross Hatton, AOS Culinary Arts

According to the Hearth, Patio, & Barbecue Association, 69 percent of Americans participate in some form of grilling on July 4th. While many of us may have heard the “low and slow” mantra, the science of a well-prepared barbecue is less understood, and with Independence Day fast approaching, it is an opportune time to clear the smoke and shed some light on the science of low and slow.

When preparing a barbecue, the two greatest concerns are flavor and texture. We are generally taught that flavor is the priority, and, while a good barbecue must be flavorful, it must also be succulent.

A tough barbecue simply should not be served.

Yet when producing a tender barbecue, the chef is faced with conflicting aims. The meat must retain as much water as possible by staying at a low cooking temperature, but it must also reach a high enough temperature for collagen to dissolve into gelatin. As the gelatin content rises, it coats muscle fibers, making them tender and juicy. In addition, the meat must be properly smoked in order to maximize flavor. This requires the smoke source to reach temperatures of up to 700° F. If the smoke is too cold, it may deposit soot on the barbecue. If it is too hot, food molecules will break down into carcinogens.

The chef has two tools at his disposal when

resolving this dichotomy. The first is the use of a brine. Although applying salt to meat may seem counterintuitive, it can be explained by simple osmosis. As salt enters the protein, it causes cells to burst and release their internal compounds, which accomplishes two things. First, it boosts flavor by making food molecules more readily available for cooking. In addition, water moves from lower concentrations of water-soluble compounds to higher concentrations through osmosis, in order to balance water pressure. Now that the meat has a growing concentration of these compounds, it will draw in moisture from outside the meat, thus increasing the total water in the protein.

The chef may also employ the low and slow concept in order to minimize moisture loss, while ensuring that the gelatin content will be sufficient to coat the muscle fibers. Collagen does not begin to dissolve until around 160° F, and it accelerates as the temperature rises through 180° F. The golden range for barbecue is typically around 210° - 225° F, which promotes gelatin content while minimizing water loss and allowing for proper smoking. However, due to the relatively low smoking temperature and the lack of direct heat, barbecue requires extended cooking times in order to supply the proper gelatin content and concentrated smoke flavor to the meat.

Depending on the size of the cut and its fat content, barbecue may take as long as 4 days to finish.

When biting into a Memphis beef brisket or a Kentucky mutton and vinegar dip, our strongest impressions are typically of the flavor, texture, and aroma. However, the chef cannot discount the importance of appearance in a proper barbecue.

Despite popular belief, the Maillard browning reaction is not the primary cause of the dark brown color on barbecue. The temperature of a smoker should ideally never reach above 225° 230° F, lest the barbecue begins to dry out. Maillard browning, on the other hand, readily occurs above 300° F. While Maillard browning may occur on relatively small levels, the primary cause of browning is the formation of a crust by the drying of the dry or wet rub on the outer surface of the protein.

At any proper barbecue, a chef’s primary concerns must be both flavor and texture. The thick, tough cuts of meat frequently used for barbecues are capable of becoming intensely flavorful, perfectly tender, and brown, but this requires proper attention to the science of tenderizing, smoking, and browning. As regional cuisines like barbecue have become increasingly present on the national scene in recent decades, many people have sought to develop their barbecue skills. The debates over dry and wet marinades, ketchup vs. vinegar, and lamb or pork are largely regional and may never end, but the science of low and slow is universal. If paid proper attention, it cannot fail you.

LA PAPILLOTE

8

Good Bye Gluten

BY: Bianca Swanepoel, AOS Baking and Pastry, My ex-boyfriend used to tell me that I was ‘allergic to happiness’. As morbid as it sounded, there was a slight bitter truth. No doughnuts. No pizza. And definitely no more Oreo McFlurries. Oh how the gray cloud was casted over my life when I figured out my intolerance to gluten. After some time, I found detours around the glutinous devil.

First of all, celiac disease is the big kahuna to be cautious of. This is a severe condition that acts up with the consumption of gluten. This illness causes the body

S’moreables! These gluten-free graham crackers will let you join in on the marshmallow-roasting fun.

Friday night Boat nights: No, beer is not considered gluten-free. Please accept my condolences. There is a selection of gluten-free beers though. Bard’s Tale, G-Free Honey Beer (Kosher certified too, even for Passover) and Redbrigde are just to name a few. Hard ciders are naturally gluten free.

With the growing awareness of Celiac, there are plenty of resources out in the world. Stop by the library and pick up the ‘Without Living’ or ‘Gluten Free Living’ magazines to get a quick easy read. Our very own Chef Coppedge has written the ‘Gluten-Free Baking with the Culinary Institute of America’ cook book and is sold at the bookstore on campus.

eating Mac ‘n Cheese once again was glorious. The chefs accommodate well when you notify them of your intolerance or allergy, and will modify the meal in some way. There is gluten-free rice Chex cereal in the mornings too.

Reading the labels of all your products is crucial.

The major grains that cannot be consumed are wheat (einkorn, durum, faro, graham, kamut, semolina, spelt), rye, barley and triticale. There are Ingredients that are often overlooked that can often contain small amounts of gluten, such as brown rice syrup, panko, thickeners to attack the lining of the small intestine when gluten has been eaten. It is an inherited and lifelong disease and affects about 1% of Americans, yet only 3% of that population is actually diagnosed. So how do the other 97% carry on breathing? Well, after many years of eating anything on a daily basis, your body acclimates. Think of it this way, when you first started drinking coffee you couldn’t sit still like an ADD child, but after a couple of months your body got used to it. The same thing applies here, however, though symptoms are dampened, the body still takes its toll: diarrhea, weight, edema, constipation, anemia, bone pain or even bone loss.

Probably the most common symptom is gastrointestinal, yet people have been mistakenly diagnosed with IBS, or with other illnesses. is often confusion between the differences of wheat intolerances and wheat allergies. With an allergy, the body will create antibodies to attack wheat because it treats the protein as if it were a toxin. Histamine is released and allergy symptoms are shown, from stuffy noses to anaphylactic shock (that’s the life-threatening one in case you were wondering). Intolerances, on the other hand, are not fatal. They simply appear as gastrointestinal symptoms that are short term. They appear right after, or a couple hours after consuming wheat, and vanish once the wheat is out of the person’s body.

So how can one survive at the CIA? Quite easily actually. The Grab and Go (From 1:30pm-5pm) has gluten free Amy’s frozen meals. The experience of finally

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Once people are informed of their drawback, be it Celiac or an intolerance, they are overwhelmed and panicked. First things first, educate yourself, and then just take it one meal and one snack at a time. Always have a nutritious gluten-free snack on hand for emergencies and have fun experimenting. That’s all you really can do.

Works Cited: Photos By: Bianca Swanepoel

(roux), soy sauce, Communion wafers and imitation seafood. Whether affected by this condition or not, everyone should be aware of what they are putting into their bodies.

Have no fear; there are actually some scrumptious goodies out there.

Everyday Treat: Pamela’s Products baking flour mix makes the best chocolate chip cookies. Add 1tsp of cinnamon and ½ tsp of cayenne to spice things up a little.

Bonfire kickbacks: Grab a box of Kinnikinnick’s

Becker, Eve. “A Double Diagnosis.” Living Without June 2012: n. pag. Print.

“CDF Gluten-Free Resource Directory.” Celiac Disease Foundation. N.p., n.d. Web. 21 June 2012. <http://www.celiac.org/>.

Coppedge, Richard J., and Cathy Charles. Glutenfree Baking with the Culinary Institute of America.

Avon, MA: Adams Media, 2008. Print.

“Celiac Home.” Celiac Home. N.p., n.d. Web. 22 June 2012. <http://www.celiacdiseasecenter.org/A_ Patients/A02-FAQ.htm>

July 6, 2012

FOOD & BEVERAGE

9

Summer Cocktails

BY: Casey L. Jankoski, BPS Culinary Finding new summer recipes are always fun, especiallywhen they use fresh, seasonal fruits and flavors. Some classic drinks of summer are margaritas, mojitos and fruity punches. If you are feeling a little creative and are more adventurous than a glass of chilled white wine or a frosty can of beer, then break out the shaker, and have some fun mixing up these refreshing summer cocktails.

I love stretching out on a lawn chair and soaking up some sun. When I get a little thirsty, what’s more refreshing than a tall glass of lemonade on a hot day, well this is the grown up version. Take three large cucumbers, and cut 12 thin slices for garnish. Peel and chop the rest of t he cucumber. In a food processor, combine the chopped cucumber, 1 tablespoon of chopped fresh rosemary, and puree. Pour the puree through a chinoise and set aside. Add 1 cup of water, 6 oz of gin, ½ cup lemon juice and 3 tablespoons of agave syrup to the cucumber juice. Stir to dissolve the agave. Divide into four glasses and garnish with cucumber slices. Cucumber is refreshing, and also offers many health benefits. They a

full of fiber and also aid in relieving sunburn. Cucumber also offers small doses of nearly all essential vitamins and nutrients. So drink up to your health.

When the temperature rises, mint can over take a garden. Mojitos are the perfect way to get rid of all that mint. Two classic warm weather drinks are the mojito and the margarita. Why not combine the two! In the bottom of a large pitcher, muddle ½ cup chopped mint leaves and ½ tsp kosher salt. Add 4 cups of crushed ice. Add to the pitcher, 1 ½ cups of premium tequila, 1 cup of fresh squeezed lime juice (about 8 limes) and 1 cup triple sec. Stir and serve.

Garnish with mint sprigs.

Some people may be annoyed with flavored martinis.

Apple-tini, any-fruit-tini, the infamous Cosmo, but flavored martinis are not going anywhere soon, so why not have some fun. This summery version uses sweet and refreshing watermelon. In a shaker filled with ice, combine 3 ounces Ketel One Citroen (or another citrus flavored vodka), 1 ounce of Watermelon Pucker, ½ ounce triple sec, 1 splash of lemonade and 1 splash of citrus soda. Shake and strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a slice of watermelon.

Bonfires are a summer tradition. Roasting marshmallows and sharing campfire stories into the night. As the sun sets and the light summer night chill sets in, this cocktail will warm you right up. The color perfectly matches the sunset as well. In a shaker filled with ice, combine ½ lime’s worth of juice, 1 teaspoon of sugar, a splash of apricot brandy, ½

cup of apricot puree, 1 splash of triple sec, and 1 ½ ounces of Bacardi light rum. Shake and garnish with a slice of lime.

To wrap this up I wanted to save one of my favorite fruits for last. Summer is all about stone fruit. This drink celebrates all of those ripe cherries in the produce isle. In four glasses divide 1 cup of pitted fresh cherries, 1/2 bunch of mint leaves and 8 teaspoons sugar.

Muddle and then stir in 2 ounces of rum and a heavy splash of lime juice into each glass. Fill glasses with ice and top off the glasses with seltzer.

Garnish with mint sprigs.

Celebrating the bounty of summer is wonderful. Even though the season is just getting started, we have already begun to feel the grip of summer’s heat. So keep cool out there and have some fun mixing up these delicious summer cocktails with friends and family.

Picture and Recipe credits: http://www.delish.com/ entertaining-ideas/parties/cocktail-parties/summercocktails

Singapore Sensations: Durian Fruit Like the smell of old socks and the taste of rotten onions.

These are a few of many ways that the Durian fruit have been described as. Ironically, known as the King of Fruits, Durian remains the South East Asian tourist attraction for the curious palate. Just like foie gras and other questionable seafood delicacies, the Durian fruit is a “hate it or love it” phenomenon. While there are those who dislike the fruit’s overpowering stench, the locals have always favored the soft creamy flesh of this exotic fruit.

Apart from its infamous odor, the Durian fruit is also recognized for its green thorny husk, derived from its name “Duri” which translates as “thorn” in Malay and Indonesian. When split apart, the shell reveals small Durian pulp tucked into each pod. Albeit a majestic fruit, with some weighing up to 6 kilograms, Durian is usually savored in the simplest forms; eaten with the family over newspaper sheets spread out on the floor, or in small durian stalls run by street vendors along the road. As a child, eating Durian was a luxury for my family, as we would not get to have it very often. Known to be a social fruit, it was a fond way of bringing the family together for a quick Durian supper.

These days, you can find Durian almost everywhere, even in supermarkets, with its pulp tightly wrapped in cling film over a Styrofoam tray to prevent the odor from releasing.

Durian chips and confectioneries can also be found on the aisles of the local stores.

Though there are close to 30 species of the fruit, Durians are categorized in codes according to their characteristics to enable easier marketing for its patrons. These codes help distinguish the variation of the fruit’s shape, texture and sweetness. For example, many locals favor the D24 Durian,

BY: LIZA KASSIM, AOS Culinary

specifically for the pulp’s firmness and sweet custard-like taste.

In my hometown Singapore, the durian culture is embraced in manyways. During the annual ‘Durian Season’, various eateries would flaunt their range of Durian-filled

desserts – from ice-cream to pudding, cream puffs to crepes.

Singapore’s Goodwood Park Hotel is especially famous for its Durian Mousse Cake, among countless signature cakes and pastries to commemorate the fruiting period. Even the country’s art center has been named “The Big Durian”, with its exterior bearing a resemblance to the fruit’s thorns.

Although a popular fruit among the locals, there is a “No Durian” ban in Singapore, which prohibits carrying the fruit on any public transport or in certain shopping malls and hotels, clearly due to the pungent smell that can offend others.

Needless to say, a fruit notorious for its taste does come with its fair share of myths and theories. Over generations, some locals have regarded the fruit as an aphrodisiac, which follows the legendary Malay saying: “When the durians fall down, the sarongs fly up”. Another belief is that one should never drink beer while eating Durian, on the premise that the combination of the fruit’s “heatiness” and the drink’s cooling effect will produce hazardous effects to the body.

“Heatiness” according to the locals, is described as the induced increase in body temperature when the Durian fruit is eaten. This is believed to be caused by the density of calories in each flesh.

Despite the continuing criticism of the Durian fruit, I would definitely recommend a taste of nature’s local produce for anyone who visits South East Asia, namely Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia and Thailand. For the less courageous, there is always the array of Durian desserts that help mask the fruit’s strong odor.

A visit to Singapore is incomplete without the taste of this exotic fruit!

was a busybody, and still is to this day. She made her own clothes, refusing to spend money at the mall for “something I can do better myself”. She sewed every one of my sister’s formal dresses. She baked, cross-stitched, crocheted, and still does to this day. But most importantly, she has a green thumb.

Or green soul. The woman can grow anything, and is addicted to gardening.

When I was nine, we moved to a house on a mile-long dirt road in the middle of the NJ Pine Barrens. It was so remote, we had a 4H camp across the street! But to a ragtag group of elementary-age kids, the forest was our proverbial oyster.

And for my mother, the old horse paddock on the property made her eyes glisten, as she plotted the garden of a lifetime.

The well-rotted manure lent itself perfectly to her handiwork.

There was corn, pumpkins, baseball-bat-size zucchini. There was a ferny overgrowth of dill as tall as I, where, transfixed with the wonders of nature, I watched my very first monarch butterfly caterpillars plow through their insatiable appetites.

There were endless tomatoes and herbs. Life, and food, was very good.

My mother introduced me to the idea of organics before the vast majority of the world had ever heard of it.

She shunned any gardener who relied on Miracle-Gro for fertilization, turned her nose up at buying mulch. We mocked her relentlessly for driving to the beach to collect garbage bags

full of seaweed and stuffing it into her trunk, but it made the garden gloriously fertile. She, to this DAY, receives flack for indulging in the “free manure” sign outside our local rescue zoo, where their two elephants ‘donated’ their droppings to giddy gardeners. In the end, however, she got the last laugh.

We ate like kings of the produce department. We never bought a canned vegetable in season, because we didn’t NEED to.

Unwittingly, she taught us that the greatest gifts come from the earth, and from the heart. Food is more than sustenance and shopping carts, more than a drive-through between work shifts. Food is love, and soul, and good parenting. We learned that food comes from the earth, and gained an immeasurable respect for it, specifically because of her efforts and devotion to provide for her family.

Today, I am a mother. One of my daughter’s earliest memories, when she was only two, is picking heirloom, purple-podded peas off the vines in our meager backyard, and popping them like jellybeans. To this day, peas are one of her top two favorite foods (the other being blueberries). I know I can never replicate my mother’s talents; she’s a natural at gardening, and I have a black thumb on most days. But even with the simple things I can grow and manage to not kill, I am passing on a rich tradition of nurturing cuisine to my offspring, and I can only hope it inspires her to do the same.

Just one more reason I owe my mom a debt of gratitude.

A Rich Tradition of Nurturing Cuisine

BY: Christine Wendland, AOS CULINARY

When I was a child in the early ‘80’s, food for kids resembled a prehistoric ancestry of today’s modern supermarket fare.

I, personally, was a Chef Boyardee Beefaroni junkie. I loved it so much that I wrote a letter to the “Chef” asking for his sauce recipe (suffice it to say, while the Chef didn’t divulge his ‘secret recipe’, my parents were graced with a years’ supply of coupons). We also ate PB and J’s, grilled processed American cheese on Wonderbread, and cheap bologna. We snacked on Herr’s and Lays, drank generic neon-colored soda, and ate vegetables that arrived to the pantry in cans of water. SPAM made regular breakfast appearances. In leaner times, milk came from a powder. We ate lots of white pasta with ground beef, dark meat chicken quarters, pot roasts, and on pay days, we indulged in pizza or Chinese takeout (chicken chow mein for me!) Our family of seven, lower middle class, was probably a terrific representation of the majority of Americans at that time.

What set us apart, and what influences me to this day, was that my mother was a DIY’er. Sometimes it was out of necessity; I specifically remember one time she made homemade mayonnaise because we couldn’t afford to buy it, but we did have eggs, oil and vinegar at home (and God FORBID we ate our bologna and cheese Wonderbread sandwich without mayo!). More typically, it was because she

LA PAPILLOTE

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Grad. Speaker: Eric Ziebold ’94

Executive Chef, CityZen and Sou’wester profiles at his restaurants. In naming him one of its Best New Chefs in 2005, Food & Wine noted that “… his tantalizing contemporary-American menu is both ambitious and accessible, with charming comfortfood touches.”

Chef Ziebold’s affinity for cooking began in his mother’s kitchen while growing up in Iowa, and her simple approach and use of seasonal ingredients continue to inspire him. His first job in the food world was working after school at Café Maude’s with his mentor, Chef Matt Nichols. After high school, he studied finance for two years at the University of North Iowa before heeding his true calling by enrolling at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY.

Eric Ziebold is the executive chef for CityZen and Sou’wester, both located at the Mandarin Oriental hotel in Washington, DC. Celebrated for his unique style of modern American cuisine, Chef Ziebold brings his own interpretations, coupled with his classic French training, to introduce new flavor

After graduating from the CIA with the highest honors, Chef Ziebold went to Washington, DC to work for fellow CIA graduate Jeffrey Buben ’78 at Vidalia. He then moved to Los Angeles to take on the position of chef de partie at Spago before joining Thomas Keller at The French Laundry. His relationship with Chef Keller led Chef Ziebold to New York City, where he assisted in the creation of Per Se on Columbus Circle. The success of that

venture prepared him for his own turn at the helm, when he was tapped by Mandarin Oriental to return to the nation’s capital as executive chef of the finedining, Five-Diamond CityZen. Chef Ziebold later transformed the hotel’s Asian-themed Café Mozu into Sou’Wester, which features traditional and interpretive takes on regional American classics.

Along with running the restaurants, he also operates CityZen Private Events by Eric Ziebold from an art gallery space located just off CityZen’s main prep kitchen. The venue features stunning views of the Tidal Basin and Jefferson Memorial and offers a menu customized to the specific tastes of guests.

Chef Ziebold’s talents in the kitchen have been heralded by the industry. His many accolades include being named Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic by the James Beard Foundation in 2008, one of the “10 most influential chefs working in America” by Forbes.com in 2007, and one of the Best New Chefs

by Food & Wine in 2005. In addition, CityZen made Gayot.com’s list of the top 40 restaurants in the U.S. in 2010 and Esquire magazine’s list of America’s Best New Restaurants in 2005.

AOS Graduating Class of July 6, 2012 Baking and Pastry Group #1

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Boca Raton Resort Jessica Villmore Bon Appetit@google Cassandra Glenn Bouchon Bakery Anna Stevens Brookfield Country Club Richard Delplato Café Boulud Jin Yoo Castle on the Hudson Tonia Gerald JW Marriott Hill Camelback Inn Karina Roerick Loews MiamiBeach Hotel Brianna Bramble Marriott Orlando World Center Sara Hancock Montage Deer Valley Mary Silfven Park Ave Café Jinhee Song Pazzo! Culinary Concepts Tyleah Edwards Ritz Carlton Christopher Rodrigues

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July 6, 2012

Barbeque BACKYARD BAKED BEANS BARBECUE BARBECUE SAUC BARK BBQ BEEF BRISKET CAROLINA CHARCOAL CHICKEN CLOSED PIT COOKOUT CORN ON THE COB DRY RUB FAMILY FIRE FRIENDS GRILLING HICKORY CHIPS

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Asparagus and Goat Cheese Pasta Salad Gluten-Free and Vegetarian

BY: AMIE VALPONE Culinary Nutritionist and Personal Chef, Author of “The Healthy Apple” , www.TheHealthyApple.com Ingredients:

• • • • • • • • • • •

1/4 cup macadamia nuts 1 pound gluten-free penne pasta 2 bunches asparagus, trimmed, halved lengthwise, and cut crosswise into thirds 4 ounces goat cheese, broken into pieces 2 scallions, finely chopped 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon zest 2 Tbsp. finely chopped fresh parsley ¼ tsp. paprika ½ tsp. sea salt ¼ tsp. freshly ground black pepper

Instructions 1. In a small skillet over medium heat, toast macadamia nuts, stirring often, until golden, approximately 3 minutes.

2. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook pasta until al dente, according to the package instructions, add asparagus during the last 2 minutes of cooking. Drain; return pasta and asparagus to pot.

Toss with goat cheese, scallions, lemon zest, parsley, paprika, sea salt, pepper and toasted macadamia nuts.

3. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve immediately or cover and store in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

4. Serve chilled or at room temperature.

An Exploration of Random Culinary Trends, Facts, Ingredients, and Information.

ADAPTED BY: DAN CASTRO, BPS Culinary, Photographer

Tabbouleh

T is for...

Tequila

Tapas

Photo By: Wikipedia.org

[tuh-BOO-luh] A Middle Eastern dish of bulghur wheat mixed with chopped tomatoes, onions, parsley, mint, olive oil and lemon juice.

It’s served cold, often with a crisp bread such as lavosh.

Photo By: blog.timogrady.wordpress.com

Photo By: edibleeducation.wordpress.com

Toulouse Sausage

[tuh-KEE-luh] A colorless or pale straw-colored liquor made by fermenting and distilling the sweet sap of the agave plant. It originated in Tequila, Mexico, hence the name. Most tequilas imported to the United States range from 80 to 86 proof, although some versions are over 100 proof. Tequila is

Turkish Delight

[TAH-pahs] Popular throughout Spain in bars and restaurants, tapas are appetizers that usually accompany sherry or other apertifs or cocktails. They can also form an entire meal and can range from simple items such as olives or cubes of ham and cheese to more elaborate preparations like cold omelets, snails in a spicy sauce, stuffed peppers and miniature sandwiches.

Tsukemono

Photo By: recipes.wikia.com

[too-LOOZ] A small French sausage made of coarsely diced pork flavored with wine, garlic and seasonings. Toulouse sausage is usually braised or fried and makes a good addition to many dishes such as cassoulet.

Tabasco Sauce

Photo By: markethallfoods.com

Called rahat loukoum (“rest for the throat”) in Turkey, this rubbery-textured candy is extremely popular throughout the Middle East. It’s made from CORNSTARCH or GELATIN, sugar, honey and fruit juice or jelly, and is often tinted pink or green. Chopped almonds, pistachio nuts, pine nuts or hazelnuts are frequently added. Once the candy becomes firm, it is cut into small squares and coated with confectioners’ sugar. Turkish delight is available commercially in candy shops and some supermarkets.

Photo By: Wikipedia.org

tsukemono [soo-keh-MOH-noh] The general name for Japanese-style pickled vegetables, which are served with practically every Japanese meal, breakfast included. There are numerous pickling techniques and a wide variety of vegetables that are pickled.

Thai Coffee Photo By: hotsaucecorner.com

[tuh-BAS-koh] Tabasco Pepper, a very hot, small red pepper originally from the Mexican state of Tabasco. The word itself means “damp earth.” Though these peppers are now grown in parts of Louisiana, they’re not widely commercially available. Instead, they’re used specifically to make Tabasco Sauce, a trademarked name held by the McIlhenny family since the mid-1800s. Produced since Civil War times, this fiery sauce is made from tabasco peppers, vinegar and salt.

The peppers are fermented in barrels for 3 years before being processed into the sauce. Tabasco Sauce adds zest to numerous dishes as well as being integral to the famous bloody mary cocktail.

Kingston, NY

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Thai iced coffee is a popular drink commonly offered at Thai restaurants in the United States

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