Volume 33, No.39
February 28, 2014
CIA PRESIDENT AMONG MOST POWERFUL PEOPLE IN FOOD
Press Release, from Jeff Levine’s Office Hyde Park, NY - CIA President Tim Ryan has been chosen as one of the 50 most powerful people in the restaurant industry. The Nation’s Restaurant News (NRN) Power List recognizes the people who are leading and shaping the food world. Dr. Ryan was honored in the category of “The Connectors: People who are bringing together ideas, talent, and funding in the restaurant industry.” The profile of Dr. Ryan cites the curriculum innovation that has taken place at the college during his 12 years at the helm, as well as the creation of professional leadership conferences and the opening of two new campuses. “Ryan, not content to rest on the school’s reputation, has taken steps to keep the 67-year-old institution current,” writes NRN’s Ed Rubenstein. “Even as the rise of the celebrity chef introduced new exposure and scrutiny to culinary schools, Ryan helped to solidify the CIA’s image as a proving ground for future foodservice leaders.”
Dr. Ryan is a 1977 CIA graduate. His unique background includes being a Certified Master Chef, Culinary Olympics champion, and having an Ivy League degree. He earned his doctorate in education from the University of Pennsylvania. Dr. Ryan has been with the CIA since 1982, when he was recruited to serve on the faculty and develop and run the college’s ground-breaking American Bounty Restaurant. He became the CIA’s fifth president in 2001. Joining Dr. Ryan on the NRN Power List are fellow CIA alumni Steve Ells ’90, founder of Chipotle Mexican Grill, and food truck pioneer Roy Choi ’98. Also this winter, Dr. Ryan was elected to the Board of Directors of the National Restaurant Association. He has been serving on its Educational Foundation board for the past three years.
I nterview W ith M ark
BY: Francis Mailing, AOS Culinary Arts
I admit that I changed exponentially because of my externship. Quoting a line from a John Cusack film, “Skin’s thicker, instincts more developed.” I look at the new kids coming in for the very first time on their orientation week and I think back to when I was in their shoes and, man, it’s been quite the journey so far. I often daydream abou my upcoming graduation date, which looms not as far in the distance as it once did. I try to envision where I’ll end up, where I will be applying all the things that I have learned. I also try to remember why I even came to the school in the first place. I began my research three days prior to interviewing the commencement speaker Chef Mark Ladner, Executive Chef at Del Posto in New York City, which is part of the Mario Batali and Joe and Lydia Bastianich empire. Highly regarded as one of the more formidable chefs in New York City restaurants, Chef Ladner is shrouded in mystery and not at all what I expected him to be. I read interviews, articles, bios and watched Del Posto videos. The idea of a six-foot-four Michelin-starred chef being timid, reserved, and quiet was intriguing. However, what I got was one of the most honest and revealing conversations I have ever had with a chef – or anyone, for that matter. Fellow newspaper staff writer Gareth Alonso and I caught up with Chef Ladner, along with Del Posto’s Chef de Cuisine and CIA alumnus Mark Abdoo after the graduation ceremony to talk food and tales from the restaurant industry. “How does one get to the top?” or “What inspires your choice of cuisine for Del Posto’s menu?” are usually the first two questions posed by culinarians like myself who are hungry for knowledge. Chef Ladner, who left culinary school in Providence to take a job with the young Todd English, jumped at the chance for such a great opportunity. To me, that speaks volumes about a person’s character and their chance of achieving future success. However, as Ladner mentioned during his commencement speech, willingness, patience and the desire to continuously challenge oneself Culinary Culture
are the key ingredients for a culinary student. Even as he holds the title of Executive Chef at Del Posto, Ladner still considers himself a student, claiming the restaurant his “finishing school.” Under the guidance of his long time friend, mentor, and partner Mario Batali, Chef Ladner is able to immerse himself in the business and management side of the restaurant industry. When asked about the transition between opening as sous chef at Babbo to partnering with Batali, Ladner said, “It didn’t come easy. I was resistant for some time. There are some times where you struggle with yourself trying to figure out where is my time best spent. You know, when you’re responsible for that many people, it’s not about micromanaging single plates and dishes. My job is to make sure everyone else is doing their job. So it took me a while to get to that, I definitely struggled with that transition.” Making the best of it does not come without making some sacrifices. I mean, who comes into ....Continued on Page 11
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LA PAPILLOTE
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THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
February 28, 2014
PUBLISHER
The Student Affairs Division
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Amy Zarichnak
LAYOUT EDITOR
Diane Lam
ADVERTISING MANAGER CONTRIBUTORS Emily Dittmar Chef Freddie Brash Daniel Jarosz Francis Mailing Connor White Gareth Alonso Maxine Lambiase
Sue Haug
Alexis Harrington Stephanie Kirkland Gabrielle Thomas Andrew Vinegar Chef David McCue Irena Chalmers
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Amy Zarichnak, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote. culinary@gmail.com.
Shortly after the deadline for the last issue, my staff and I met to discuss some changes that we wanted to make to the paper. We wanted to do everything differently. We wanted all new sections. New writing. More life in the paper. I mention that it was after the deadline only because it was just three weeks ago, but now seems it like a lifetime. In that time, there has been some heavy lifting by staff to make the changes that we thought you would enjoy as a reader. No doubt this paper will evolve from where it is now, as we try to understand who we are as a campus, as a melting pot, and as a generation of chefs. We wanted to figure out what information students want, and how they want to receive it. This was part of the discussion that we had that Sunday in the La Papillote office. But one thing that we struggled with was how best to represent the student population. Who are we? When I met with President Tim Ryan as part of the initial getting-on-board process with the paper, I told him that I wanted to give the paper kind of a geek-chic, “cool, smart people” vibe. He said, “Great! I love that! I like that SO much better than that whole tattooed, pierced, badass thing.” I cringed. I am tattooed and pierced. But not only that, what I love about being in culinary school is that it’s not just accepted to express yourself that way, it is, instead, part of the culture. Cooking and chef-dom embraces those of us on the fringes of society and gives us a place to belong. We allow each other to be artful and quirky, and it’s okay to do it where people can see. I love it! I love my tattoos. I love my piercings. It’s who I am. And after 20 years of having to hide this part of myself in a traditional professional setting, I am finally part of an industry that not only embraces that, but views it as the artsy and creative outlet that it is. I absolutely love that my fellow chefs-to-be – my people – are just as passionate about food as I am, and are just as passionate about tattoos as I am, and are just as enthusiastic about expressing their love of food or whatever it is that excites them in tattoo form on their bodies. I love this. I love being part of this group because this is exactly who I am. This is what we do. Of course, I want to do what is in line with what the President of the school wants. However, I think he misunderstood me, and I don’t think we’ll ever be a more buttoned-up, conservative crowd. Ever. However, being tattooed and pierced doesn’t have to be synonymous with not being serious students. Because we are. But, my question to you is, if being tattooed and pierced doesn’t define us, then what does? Who ARE we? What do we want to read in this paper? What’s important to you? What can we change? What can we make better? What can we eliminate? What are you passionate about? More than anything, how can this student newspaper be of service to the students? Ponder this question as you read through the paper this issue. We have made some changes. We will make more. Some of the changes we’ve made will stick and some might fall by the wayside as we continue to brainstorm the best ways to serve our student population. We want to make you think, entertain you, educate you, and enlighten you. Your ideas are always welcome. My email address is below. I’d love to hear from you. Have an amazing block! Amy Z. az772942@cia.culinary.edu
“Anyone who thinks they’re too grown up or too sophisticated to eat caramel corn, is not invited to my house for dinner” – Ruth Reichl
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LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@ mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Sydney Estrada (Layout Editor) SE853582@cia.culinary. edu
Stephanie Kirkland (Copy Editor)
February 28, 2014
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W h at W ould M c C ue D o ?
Editor’s Note: Chef McCue has a Facebook page up that highlights all the goings-on in his kitchens. Of course, the funniest ones are the catastrophes and the silly things students do. With his big heart and quickwitted tongue, we thought it would be fun to hear his advice on some of the students’ problems. We asked some students what was going on in their lives that they needed help with, and here are his replies. Need advice? Submit your questions to Chef McCue by emailing lapapillote. culinary@gmail.com.
Chef McCue’s Note: First and foremost, I would like to thank everyone for consideringmy semi-vast accrual of selectively pertinent, and often trivial, knowledge as a psychological sounding board for the sophomoric shenanigans that students engage in on an all-toofrequent basis. Nevertheless, the fact that you are turning to a media source as a means of resolution can only mean one of two things: One, you realize this is solely for entertainment purposes and that this should be taken as seriously as financial advice from a Ouji board, or perhaps even skydiving advice from a turtle. Two, you really are at the end of your rope if this is all you have to go on. In which case, hold on, your life is about to get even more messed up if you listen to me. Welcome, one and all, to the WWMD advice page. Buckle up and enjoy the ride. I aspire to offend everyone equally. Question: I’m in love with one of my chefs. What should I do? Anonymous Dear Anonymous, If I had a dollar for every time I heard this from a student, I would be a wealthy man. Seriously? Do you even know what love is? Love is the end of a long journey of growth, understanding, and soul searching. In the absence of all things and even in the darkest void, love can be a beautiful glowing force in your universe that can fully sustain you. No, you don’t love him. I think what you may feel is infatuation. This is normal. A lot of students look up to chefs and mistakenly think that this feeling inside is love, when really it is an endearing respect and attraction to a position of power, or a dominant personality. Not only that, but Chef Viverito is so dreamy…! But wait, you didn’t tell me that it was him! Anyway, naturally, you start thinking you love your chef. You don’t, and trust me, he does not love you either. In fact, Viverito told me so. But I digress, because I know you weren’t talking about him. Plus, that would be immoral, and kinda creepy. Go find someone born in your own century to woo you, heck, your own millennium. You’ll realize around the time that you hit your mid-life crisis that he’ll already be collecting social security, provided it’s still around. And if not, this “love” you speak of will turn into a financial burden of you taking care of a cranky old chef. If this still boils your water, then maybe I’m wrong, and this is love. Yours will the exception, I’m sure. You should tell him how you feel. By the way, he has 742 bristles in his toothbrush. You should tell him you know this so that he knows that your feelings for him are real and not creepy. Seriously. Tell him.
might be worried if I were you. This is a serious commitment, not to be taken lightly, like personal relationships, or managing credit debt, or school. Get off your duff and get to the Career Services office and stay there scouring the books until you find a place. You can also try my Facebook page, and put up a post to see if anyone has heard of an opportunity. On the about me page, look at the map I created, there are more than a few sites there, complete with student recommendations and contact info. Regardless, begin moving. Now. Remember in scary movies, terrified immobility usually meant you were about to be killed, so here’s some advice based on that. Get up, RUN, and don’t look back until you have secured an extern site. By the way, this same advice applies to you in the weeks prior to graduation to have a job lined up so you don’t have to move into your parents basement and work at the local Starbucks where you got your experience at for school at the same wage as before you went to culinary school. Try paying off your student loans at that rate. Or maybe your folks will take care of that too. Welcome to adulthood. Now get off your butt! Question: My partner in class is sabotaging me – turning up my burners, hiding ingredients, etc. How should I deal with this? Anonymous Dear Anonymous, Is your partner’s name Matt? Because if it is, he’s not sabotaging you… He’s high. He’s likely just misplacing stuff as he trails off watching the pretty blue flames and steam. If so, tell him there’s a bag of Fritos in the dish room. That should keep him busy for a few hours while you get your prep done. But, if your partner isn’t Matt, just some regular non-Mensa candidate, then here’s what you do... Relax, it’s school. What do you expect, to be sharing a station with Bocuse and Keller? You are going to have plenty of incompetent people in your career path. My advice to you is to use it to your advantage. Heck, if you truly are standing next to an idiot, what better way to look like a genius, right? Remember, even a tiny candle in a dark room is the brightest light around. Silver lining. At least they’re keeping you on your toes. Question: I’m a group leader and I have two females in my group who keep bickering. How can I make it stop? Patrick, AOS Culinary Dear Patrick, I suppose I could say something encouraging like it’s college and they’re learning valuable social skills, or I’m sure given time, they will work it out maturely. Blah, blah , blah. No. You have two choices: one, stick them together and give them a common enemy. You, for example. For instance, when they start to fight, assign them to a nasty chore and leave them alone to do it. Dishes, running garbage, mopping, etc. It won’t shut them up, but as allies against you, at least they will agree on one thing. Or, two, whip out a video camera. If there’s one thing I’ve learned, people tend to behave when they know you are recording them. Heck, it doesn’t even have to be on.
Question: I’m in the weeds, Chef. I got caught on campus Question: How do I stab my Fundies partner and make it with marijuana. How can I clean my act up? Matt, AOS look like an accident? Anonymous Culinary Dear Anonymous, Dear Matt, Just pretend like you are preparing a dish for chef. More often than Ha ha ha ha! Idiot. What’s the matter with potheads these days, my not, those look like accidents. little bag of Funyuns? Back when I was a student, we knew the rules, Dorito-boy. Yeah, some people did smoke the weed, toke a bowl, Question: This person in my class is going around and hang out with mary jane, or roll a doobie here or there, you savory taking pictures of everyone’s food and using it for their Slim Jim, but we were smart enough to know if you got caught, you portfolio. What should I say to this person? Samantha, were screwed, my delicious chocolate covered pretzel. For now, it’s AOS Culinary still illegal in the state of New York, you Tostino pizza roll, you. My advice, Matt, is to lay off the weed for a bit, it’s dumbing you down, Dear Samantha, double bacon grilled cheese sandwich. Save your money, cheesy fries!! I would do what I always do when you see someone doing something Or go to Colorado where it’s legal, chicken nugget, and load up like they shouldn’t, like pretending others’ work is theirs, attempting to Justin Bieber on a layover in Amsterdam. As for right now, you got do something they boast that they are capable of but are clearly caught. Time to pay the piper, cheese doodle. Ha, ha, pipe! not, tempting fate, etc. Encourage them. That’s right, you heard me, encourage them. Someday, someday soon, all that posing and halfQuestion: I have three weeks until externship. I don’t have truth telling will put them in a really bad place and they will learn a site yet. I’m scared. What do I do? Sarah, AOS Baking & a very valuable lesson. So, give them a hand, get them out on that Pastry limb, running with the bulls, encourage them jump out of the nest... Or maybe, just maybe, they are here to be a food photographer and Dear Sarah, not a chef. Hey, you never know. And Samantha, please stop fighting There is no need to be scared. It’s perfectly normal for responsible with your partner. It’s driving Patrick crazy. people to wait until the last minute to establish an influential relationship secured with a binding contract. That’s why we have If you have a problem and want help from Chef McCue, Vegas and divorce lawyers, after all. But as for an externship, yeah, I email your question to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
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BY: Lacey Benjamin, Alumna Since I have ventured out into the real world, Ihave realized something: I really really really enjoy giving advice. I know it sounds simplistic, but if I had a dime for every time I found myself in a kitchen during my first week saying, “I wish someone told me that before,” well, let’s just say I could have paid off my tuition by now. So, in keeping with my major obsession with giving advice to those who are about to enter the treacherous path of trying to have a successful career, I am going to give you the gems of knowledge I have picked up through some experience. These are the things I wish someone had told me as I ventured into a new kitchen trying desperately not to screw up everything I touched and managing to make every sous chef hate me in the process. 1) There really is no such thing as a stupid question. Ok. I get it. We all know this. But seriously. Have you ever found yourself assigned with a project by a sous chef (and yes, trust me, they’re the ones you need to make nice with) as an extern (or any new position), that you are too terrified to admit you have no idea what they are talking about? We’ve all been there, and if you say you haven’t, well, you’re a liar. So, here are your options. You can say “yes chef” and go about trying to figure out a way to make it seem like you know what you’re doing. You then proceed to mess the project up, waste a lot of time and food in the process and manage to leave the restaurant high and dry for something that it needed to feed the guest that is paying a lot of money to be fed. Or, you can take 30 seconds, use your noggin, and give a clear run through of what you think you’re supposed to be doing to your supervisor and have a much more pleasant time doing it. And hey, with the feedback you get, you may even learn something in the process. You’d be surprised at how impressed your bosses will be at your attention to detail and your ability to listen to what they’re saying and communicate it back. It shows that you are listening and that you are making an effort to learn the ways of the restaurant, both of which are critical in having a good first week on the job. 2) No one wants to hear about what you did at your last job. For some reason, people like to cling to the past in the form of their former jobs. We’ve all met someone in class or at work who cooked in this amazing restaurant that did everything the perfect way and wouldn’t shut up about it. If you haven’t met a person like this, don’t worry, you will. My advice to you is to make the largest effort you can to not be this person. I don’t care if you spent an entire externship peeling carrots for Thomas Keller himself. What is important about your past experiences is that they have led you to the position you are in now and everything you have learned from previous jobs will better prepare you to be successful now. Actions speak louder than words, to put simply. The most important thing is to keep
an open mind and remember one thing: if your last job was so amazing, you wouldn’t be in a new restaurant now trying to learn something new. 3) Remember the basics. If there is one thing that is constant throughout any restaurant you will work in, it’s the basics. Knife cuts, cooking methods, cleaning habits, proper mise en place skills, and the ability to work in an organized manner, the ability to adjust to new settings, and the flexibility react to problems as they arise. When you enter a new kitchen, they don’t expect you to know the station, where anything is, or any of the proper plate-ups specific to that restaurant. Those things can be taught. What they do expect you to know is how to actually work in a kitchen, how to take direction and be able to take a recipe or ingredients they tell you and make a dish happen using basic knowledge on how to cook. 4) A little bit of humility goes a long way. Humility is a loaded word. It means a lot of things, but for our purposes, humility means remembering that you are, in fact, brandy-new in a setting where teamwork means everything. It means remembering that you are at the bottom of the totem pole. You are trying to find your place in a team that doesn’t totally know if they need you yet and or if they can trust you. Do your best to not overstep boundaries and try and change a system that you don’t really know. It’s hard. Everyone wants to belong and feel needed, especially in a busy kitchen, but at this point, it’s your job to say “yes” to everyone and keep an upbeat attitude while understanding that you have to put in your time to become the person that people go to if they need help. It will happen one day, but until then, keep moving through it and try and learn as much as possible. 5) Keep asking for more. This one is very simple, but for some reason, people like to get comfortable in knowing exactly what they have to do in order to be considered “doing a good job”. This is probably one of the most dangerous attitudes someone working in a kitchen can have. Your supervisors aren’t psychic. They don’t know your goals, what you think you’re capable of, or even what you want to be capable of. With this being said, don’t stay complacent with doing the jobs that fall under your job description. Yes, it is important, but during your first week it is CRITICAL to show your boss that you are willing to put in the work to go the extra mile. I don’t mean try and learn a new station before you have mastered your own, but rather, ask to come early or stay late to work with someone on something to expand your knowledge of what it is the restaurant does. Just make sure it doesn’t impact your actual job duties and you will be surprised at the impression it will make early in your journey in the restaurant business.
T o M y F ellow B akers BY: Sydney Estrada, AOS Baking and Pastry Five terms. Eighty-nine school weeks. Six hundred and twenty-three days. I’m done! Time flew by so quickly in the AOS Baking program, though it did not feel that way when I started. My start date was June 18, 2012. It was two weeks after my high school graduation, and I was ready to move away from Michigan and start a new life in New York. Of course it was not as easy as it may sound. I managed to maintain a long-distance relationship with my new-at-the-time boyfriend, I stayed in touch with my family, and held onto the friendships I held dear. I am incredibly grateful for my time here at the CIA. I have learned so many new techniques and have grown tremendously as a pastry chef. Starting off was not easy for someone with no experience in the baking field besides home baking. I did not know what I was getting myself into, only that I was going to the most prestigious culinary school in the United States, the one that I have wanted to go to since I was in 8th grade. I started off in Chef Walnock’s Baking and Pastry Techniques. Let me say, Chef Walnock is to this day my favorite chef. She was so passionate about what she did, and she taught us the basics in a fun and exciting way. The program kept on moving, through Café Savory, as it was called then, which was my least favorite class. I am decent at cooking. However, I didn’t like the way it was being taught in that class, and it made me despise it. I went through principles of design, cakes, individual desserts, breads, and then it was finally time for externship. Externship was interesting, to say the least. I went back home to Michigan to begin my externship at a small bakery called The Cakeria. It had won Cupcake Wars on Food Network, and looked like a great place to get some experience. Unfortunately, halfway through my time there, they closed suddenly. I was left with no externship. After calling Career Services,
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I managed to find a new externship site that was close to my home, and I did not have to start over. For those who doubt Career Services, they pretty much saved my life in this situation. When I came back I was filled with new techniques and more experience, and was ready to take on my last two semesters! It all went by so fast now that I have time to stop and catch my breath. I learned an incredible amount these last seven months. I finally learned how to properly temper chocolate (it would be helpful to teach us this at the beginning!), how to make beautiful gum paste roses, how to convert a recipe to glutenfree, and so much more. This program gives so much knowledge in every aspect of the baking field. All the chefs here are incredibly knowledgeable and put so much passion into their work. Overall, the baking program is phenomenal. If you are reading this and just started here in the baking program, be excited! It will undoubtedly be one of the best experiences of your life. It’s so bizarre to think that I am graduating! It feels like I just started. Here are my 5 tips to being successful in the baking program: 1) The chef is always right. Always. Especially Chef Grewling. He is The Chocolate God. Seriously. 2) Always stay positive. Don’t let anyone doubt you. Do what you do best and don’t let the haters hate get you down. 3) Make sure you keep up with your skills. Know the method of making a pastry cream, know the temperature to bring sugar to for an Italian meringue, and all that stuff. Know your basics, especially by 4th and 5th term. 4) Don’t give in to drama. I hate drama and avoid it as much as I can. It really helps you out to avoid it, that way there is no tension in the bake shop. Your group is your family. Yes, you will argue, but you also grow to love each other and should support one another. 5) Have fun! You won’t love what you are doing unless you are having fun. Good luck my fellow bakers. Eat lots of chocolate, and don’t regret it.
February 28, 2014
A S harp S tart
BY: Connor White, AOS Culinary Arts Another new class, and day one was upon us. With it always comes an anxiety-ridden excitement. The day before I had done all of my research on the class, made my timeline, and sharpened my knives. It had been far too long since I had honed their edges and it was long overdue. After all of my preparation, I truly felt ready for my first day of A La Carte,the first high pressure production kitchen we are in. I would soon find out how prepared I really was. Walking into class that day, I felt so ready. My friends kept talking about how nervous they were for this day one. After finishing on a high note in Modern Banquets, I figured that walking into A La Carte wouldn’t be anything that I wasn’t prepared for. I went to class that day, had my tour of the kitchen, and went to work. I was in charge of preparing the side dishes for the poached salmon entrée. Most of my time was spent doing knife work, so I was happy that I had taken the time and made the effort to sharpen my knives. After what felt like only minutes, my chef called out the half an hour mark until food had to be ready. I couldn’t figure out where the time had gone. With about an hour’s worth of work left to do, it was safe to say that we were officially in the weeds. In order to try to get my team back on time, I pushed myself to work as fast as I possibly could. I remember thinking to myself “Wow, I cant believe I haven’t cut myself yet.” Sure enough, I just jinxed myself. The next thing I knew, I felt a sharp pain and realized that I had cut off the tip of my thumb. Immediately I ran to the hand sink and covered my thumb with paper towels. I knew that I had cut the tip of my thumb completely off but I had no clue how large of a portion was gone. I looked to the classmate next to me and remarked, “I’m pretty sure that this one is going to require a visit to the nurse.” With a frantic gesture towards my cutting board my classmate responded, “Dude, that’s your thumb!” That was the point when I understood how bad my cut actually was. From across the kitchen, I could see the tip of my thumb sticking out on my cutting board amongst the tips of the green beans that I had been cutting. I hated leaving my team when they were in the weeds, but the fact of the matter was, I just lost a digit. They surely wouldn’t be able to finish on time now, but being that I sort of need my thumb, I had to go. Before leaving I told my team exactly what needed to be done before service. Grossed out and concerned for me, they waved me away. Finally Chef McCue interrupted my panicky commands to kick me and my profusely bleeding thumb out of his kitchen. I wasn’t going to leave that kitchen unless I absolutely had to, but Chef McCue kindly reminded me that blood was not an ingredient in any of the recipes that day. Reluctantly, I walked down to the nurses’ office. The nurse’s office seemed calm when I arrived. There were no students being seen so thankfully the nurse was able to take me immediately. I warned the nurse about the amount of my thumb that was missing. She had me rest my hand over the sink so that she could take a look. Immediately blood started spilling out, and she jumped into action, doing everything that
ON CAMPUS
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she could to stop the bleeding. Not long after my adrenaline had worn off. I could really start to feel the pain of the cut as well as the shock from the amount of blood that I was losing. Feeling light-headed I politely said, “Excuse me but I’m pretty sure I’m gonna pass out.” Just then I was gone. I woke up a minute later with an oxygen mask on my face and an ice pack on the back of my neck. They gave me juice to raise my blood sugar. Shortly after I was feeling better, even laughing at the spectacle that I had just created. The nurse wrapped up my hand onto a fist and told me that she would have campus safety bring me to the emergency room. Yippy. My day just went from bad to worse. When I arrived to the emergency room, I must have looked like a wreck. With chef whites on, my knife kit in hand, and my aprons and side towels still at my waist,and everything spattered with blood, I was clearly the victim of a culinary massacre. As I sat in the waiting room, I realized that it was all eyes on me. Apparently,I was the most dramatically injured patient there. It’s never fun to be the center of attention for something negative. The others waiting asked me what had happened, and I recounted my disgusting story. Administration then informed me that I was the fourth CIA student that they had seen that day. I guess it was nice to know that I wasn’t the only one who succumbed to the kitchen melee that is day one. I was seen by a doctor who stopped the bleeding, bandaged my hand, and told me that I would have to see a plastic surgeon. What? I always knew I’d probably end up getting plastic surgery, but never did I imagine it would be on my thumb! How fun that would turn out to Photo Credit: theshiksa.com be. I was just happy to have my thumb stop gushing blood. When I arrived back to campus, I actually returned to my class. My classmates asked how I was doing then informed me that the top of my thumb had been properly disposed into the blue compost bin. Perfect.My thumb is going to fertilize veggies! The next day, while in pain, I was still able return to class with the intent of working through it as much as possible. After discussing it with Chef McCue after class, it sounded like I’d be able to stick it out through the block. It made me feel better that my injury wasn’t going to prohibit me from finishing the class. I went to see the doctor that weekend, and they agreed that I would be able to continue in my classes. My thumb is going to take three months to heal, but it would grow back a little on its own. For now, I’m left with a tip-free thumb covered in a fashionable, I mean clunky, bandage. I have to say, cutting off the top of my thumb was not something I had ever thought I would do. In fact, this was the first cut that I had gotten since I had started back in August. Mistakes happen. We push ourselves to the limits in order to perform every day. We work in a rather dangerous environment and we have to realize that we are not invincible. Just be cause you haven’t cut yourself, doesn’t mean that you won’t. Be aware of your surroundings and always keep your mind focused. If and when mistakes do happen, do all that you can to fix them, and don’t use them as an excuse to not pull your weight in class. Showing your chef your desire to fix your problem is key. Chefs are happy to work with anyone who makes an effort and is sincere. At the end of the day, I’ve learned a lot through this painful process. For this reason, I actually give my bloody experience a partial thumbs-up!
6
LA PAPILLOTE
CENTER SPREAD
Center P ardon M y F rench BY: Gareth Alonso, AOS Culinary Arts
Most of us culinary students live within the bubble that is the campus of our school. To those of us lucky enough to have a car on campus, or maybe a friend who is willing to be our chauffeur for the day, we may escape our confines and explore a bit of the outside world. Just north of Hyde Park lies the town of Rhinebeck, offering up such diversions as antique shops, vintage toy stores, book shops, a theater that showcases independent films, and some fine restaurants. Rhinebeck is a weekend destination for the wealthy from New York City, and amidst the quaint, yet worldly, feel of the town, it can provide some much needed respite from the demanding schedule the culinary world requires. On a recent snow day, I was fearless enough to brave the roads and trek north to this enchanting small town. Arriving safely at my destination, I chose to eat at a classic French restaurant called Arielle. Very honestly, I chose this place based on aesthetics, because I liked appealing façade, but I was not disappointed by what I found within. Upon entering, I was immediately surrounded by the warm, Frenchchateau-like interior. The wooden-beamed ceiling and cozy dining area
from filets of sole, pork, and beef, to duck breast and pasta, there really is something for every palate. Even a burger finds its way onto the menu for those who are feeling a little less adventurous. The entrees that we ordered were the Loup de Mer Grille, a grilled bronzino with accompanying vegetables, and the Orecchiette
ree z one nt f
aux Saucisses Italianennes, which was a cream based pasta dish with mushrooms, cipollini onions, and Italian sausage. The bronzino was delicious. The skin added a perfect crisp crunch to the flaky tenderness of the meat, and the baby zucchini and squash that came with the meal were both seasoned and grilled to perfection. However good the bronzino was, I could not get enough of the orecchiette. The creaminess of the sauce played so well with the Italian sausage and the mushrooms. Still, I knew there was one more course that we needed to order, so reluctantly I set aside the entrees to be enjoyed again later. The dessert menu featured such French classics as fruit-filled crepes and pot du crème. Thinking it might be too cold outside to try the gelato sampler, I decided to get the Belgian chocolate mousse. Breaking through the airy mound and sliding my spoon deeper into the rich chocolate, garnished with a tiny dollop of the fresh whipped cream, my mouth began to water before I even tasted it. Knowing this was to be my last dish at Arielle, I knew I had enough room in my stomach to finish the entire thing. And I did. 2 7 PFHV Culinary Journal Ad 4C_Layout 1 1/8/14 5:07 PM Page 1 While seemingly having found such a culinary pearl that showcases what we learn at school, Arielle is not without its drawbacks. While stopping in and satiating my desire for rillettes or mousse might not be out of the question, having another full meal here may have to wait until my tax return. The appetizers range in price from soups at $8 - $9, to gnocchi or duck confit at $14. The entrees are all in the $20 range. This is pricey for a college student. However, if classic French cuisine and incredible desserts are a craving that must be indulged, it’s nice to know that mere miles away from the school, that can be accomplished. Arielle is delicious enough to satisfy those cravings until we are able to make our trips to France. seemed especially welcoming on such a snowy day. We began by ordering Photo Credit: Gareth Alonso some coffee to warm us up, and chose a chicken and duck liver mousse, and a pork rillette. For those of you who have the jud not yet reached Garde Manger class, or for those in the gem e SPECIAL OFFER For baking program who have not had the chance to try either of these culinary delights, you are in for a treat when you All Students And Staff experience your first bite of the savory spreads on a warm piece of toast. While relaxing and enjoying our appetizers, we engaged in conversation and soothing coffee. For a moment when I looked outside, I felt as though I had stumbled upon a sleepy little town in the French Alps that time forgot. The town was so charming, the snowy scene outside so cozy, and the food seemed to transport me far beyond this tiny Hudson Valley town. The rilletes were accompanied by a small salad of spring greens with a light vinaigrette. I knew that I had much more to look forward to here, so I set aside my rillete, and settled in to enjoy the plates that Chef Alex had in store for us. Chef Alex, a former saucier at one of Jean-Georges CIA student/faculty ID required Vonderichten’s restaurants in the city and a native of Brittany, Offer expires Friday, March 28th, 2014 France, has recently revamped the menu and is showcasing his *Home club only. Billed monthly to a checking account. Annual membership fee of $29 will be billed on June 1st, 2014. Must be 16 or older, 13 with a parent/guardian. Participating locations only. Planet Fitness facilities are independently owned and operated. finesse with classic French cuisine. With menu items ranging
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February 28, 2014
7
Spread C hef
C enterfold
S tuff C hefs S ay
BY: Andrew Vinegar, AOS Culinary Arts
We work in a high-pressure environment where one miscalculation can mean absolute disaster. As such, our experienced chefs have seen a lot. A lot. And they comment on it. A lot. And what they say is often really, really funny. Here are a few! If you want to submit some of the things you’ve heard, email them to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com 1) “Why is it that the only conversion college students seem to know is ounce to grams?” 2) “You’re killing me... smash that garlic like you’re giving a deer you shot CPR” 3) “Eating that soup is like dating a dead person. Not so bad once you get past the smell.” 4) “Group Leader! Why do I bother with the demo?! Nobody watches.” 5) “If you break your raft, what do you do? Call the pope. Slit your wrists.”
B loody S treets C elebrities
How did you decide you wanted to be a chef? I did not excel at school and to be honest, I didn’t like it or feel comfortable there. Maybe it was because I had two older brothers who excelled in their studies and I couldn’t live up to their accomplishments. Heading home from school one day, bored as usual, I entered a neighborhood restaurant. I was greeted at the door by the owner, and asked her if they needed someone to help out She lead me to the kitchen where I saw the biggest pile of dirty dishes I still swear I’ve ever seen. The rest is history. What was your most inf luential job? There was a small French restaurant on 72nd and Madison named Hulot. It had an open kitchen where customers came right up to us on the line to ask about the specials that night. It was a blackboard menu with eight appetizers and eight entrees that changed daily. That was easily the most challenging part of the job, and made me a much better cook. Which chef did you work for who you liked the most? Hands down, Loic Avril. French-born, he was extremely energetic, passionate, and compassionate. Loic treated us like human beings in the kitchen by demonstrating how he wanted the cuisine prepared. He was tough when we made mistakes but also very fair. He always looked at life with a positive attitude. What is your favorite station in kitchen? Well, this is maybe not my favorite, but the one with the highest learning curve: grill! An open grill fueled by oak and apple wood with no gas handicap yields perfectly delicious veal chops, dover sole steaks, and pork tenderloins. To grill properly, understand timing, know how to judge certain temperatures, and then plate up while never holding the protein warm in an oven is truly an art and a science. Do you have any advice for students at here at the CIA? 1) Don’t focus on grades. They’re important, but they’re not always a gauge of how good of a cook you are. Focus on the food and not your grades so you don’t lose your passion for being here. 2) Take risks. If you want to go to Daniel in NYC for extern, go for it! 3) Three P’s: Passion, persistence, and perspiration. 4) To cook from your heart, you need to practice technique, and work heart. One you have the techniques down, creativity can then freely flow.
and
BY: Maxine Lambiase, AOS Culinary Arts What was once covered in blood and named after the commerce conducted there, the Meatpacking District in New York City has gone through a complete transformation. In the 1880’s the Gansevoort Market opened on the old freight yards, buying and selling local produce. The West Washington Market consisted of ten brick buildings used for meat, poultry and dairy transactions, and relocated to the river side of West Street in 1884. By 1900, the Meatpacking District was home to 250 slaughterhouses and packing plants. Every day, the streets ran red with rivers of blood and were so harshly stained that the smell of dried blood still lingers in the cobble stone roads when the temperature hits 90 degrees or above. I worked in the Meatpacking District during my externship and it was shocking to see how “Grade A” the area has become. What was once full of men in long white aprons smeared and covered in blood, the streets are now crawling with celebrities and paparazzi all week long. I served professional athletes, artists, actors, and countless celebrities every night of the week at Catch NYC. The earliest my shift ever ended was 2:00am. As I walked out exhausted, men and women climbed out of taxis in front of me just lining up to get into a club. This wasn’t a Friday or Saturday night, either! I’m talking about Tuesdays and Wednesdays! During weekends, the streets are blocked off and cops are stationed on every corner. The streets were packed like the cattle used to be in the 1900s, but the police prevented any blood shed amongst the party revelers. The Meatpacking District has changed so much, yet it’s so similar. It’s still packed and noisy, and it smells the same, and a different kind of animal now packs the streets!
R ecipe : Y ields O ne G ood -S ized B istro
BY: George Lang, Restauranteur, Contributer to Irena Chalmer’s book Food Jobs 2 The Cooking Utensils About 4,000 square feet of space near a paved road. One very long lease, which is like the girdle on a fat lady—maybe it’s tight, but it lets her breathe. For the Dough: Several sackfuls of money, preferably not yours, and without strings attached. For Flavoring: A well-seasoned chef, male or female (between 120 and 200 pounds), preferably one whose ego has to be fed only once a day. 1 bouquet garni of assorted cooks and key personnel. Average age should be 30 years old with a minimum of 20 years of experience. 1 bartender with four hands and no pockets. A medium-sized, all-purpose kitchen planner. Yeast: 1 fully-grown manager who will make the bistro rise without too much kneading. For the Sauce: 1 fully ripened interior designer (do not remove backbone). 1 fine-grained graphic designer and one uniform designer (optional). For the Topping: 1 public relations person, whipped until a froth has formed. Method Before combining the ingredients, undertake dozens of market research studies. Then ignore them and go with your own instincts. A gut instinct is not a reliable economic indicator. Reprinted with permission.
LA PAPILLOTE
8
D orm R oom R ecipes
BY: Stephanie Kirkland, BPS Baking and Pastry I have just recently returned from my Food, Wine, and Agriculture trip to France. With that, I bring back across Rustic Tomato Sauce the pond many stories of adventure, but mostly of food. 1 pt Cherry Tomatoes, cut in half After day-to-day travels through beautiful France, when 2 cloves of garlic I finally arrived back at my hotel room during the trip, 2 TB chopped shallots (optional) exhausted and hungry, what I usually ended up with as Olive Oil, as needed a snack to end a great day was various pastries that I Salt & Freshly Cracked Pepper somehow managed not to eat during the day -- macarons mostly. I would pair them with my new favorite €3,60 Heat a saute pan on medium heat. Add a generous pour of olive bottle of wine. That’s as good of a nightcap as it gets! oil to the pan. When the oil starts to glisten, add your garlic and/or Getting back in the swing of things on campus, though, shallot. Sweat, and when soft add in the cherry tomatoes. Be careful, has meant getting back into the kitchen at last. Let me preface my newest as they will start to pop and burst in the hot oil. Cook the tomatoes creation by letting you in on a tip. My new favorite section in Stop & Shop down until they are soft. The sauce can be served like this or pureed is a much overlooked little spot right between the bakery department and in a blender if you have access to one. the meat counter. If you look closely, you’ll see a steel rack that sits covered with green styrofoam plates - the discount fruit and veggie section! Additions to this sauce could include, but are certainly not limited I’m a freezer cook. I enjoy leftovers. I like to make a large batch of to, fresh or dried basil or oregano, red pepper flakes, mushrooms, something, eat some of it, and save the rest for another day. This section of Parmesan cheese, heavy cream, or any herb that strikes your fancy. the store was made for me. While some of the produce is in various stages of Enjoy! spoilage, some of it is perfectly fine and waiting to be turned into whatever I imagine it to be! On one particular shopping trip I discovered a pound and a half of cherry tomatoes, lightly bruised but perfectly fine to make tomato sauce with, and a heaping pile of three and a half pounds of kiwis! These only set me back $0.97 and $2.07, respectively. Pretty good deal if I do say so myself! Now, of course, these two obviously did not go into the same dish, but I got the most of my money out of them nonetheless. I washed the kiwi, and keeping the skins on (which are full of nutrients and fiber), I proceeded to cut them into uniform chunks to be stored in the freezer for smoothies. Some of the cherry tomatoes, on the other hand, became a beautiful, rustic tomato sauce. I paired the sauce with noodles, of course, but since there was such a large quantity of tomatoes, I decided to split the remainders up into various other preparations. A couple tomatoes with a dippy egg here, a few more tomatoes with a hearty side of northern beans and spinach there, and even more tomatoes for color on green goddess salads with snap peas and avocado. Delish! I’m always on the lookout for a good deal, and it gets even better when I can take one ingredient use it for several dishes. I never know what’s going to catch my eye, but I’ll make sure to keep you posted on what I find next. I know we’re going back to basics here with recipe below, but the greatness about this simple sauce is that it is not only open to interpretation, but can be easily modified based on preference and ingredients on hand. Spice, heat, creaminess, consistency, and seasoning can all be added from the beginning, or after this original base is made.
T he A rt
of
BY: Emily Dittmar, AOS Baking and Pastry
S ourdough
With whimsical wheat stalks carved into fresh boules and loaves, sourdough is an art of its own. With just two attempts at a starter and the resulting dense, flat loaves, I feel unqualified to comment, but what I lack in skill, I make up for in passion for sourdough! Considering naturally leavened bread dates back to 3000 B.C., it feels as though the depth of tradition that sourdough carries is unachievable, the pinnacle of bread baking. With a short ingredient list of flour and water, it would be expected that each sourdough baker would have somewhat identical products. Instead each ingredient´s slight variances can be magnified in the results. One invisible ingredient in sourdough baking is the bacteria that permeates the air all around us, making the outcome dependent upon each individual location. San Francisco boasts it´s Boudin Bakery, which uses a starter that dates back from the California Gold Rush. To me each loaf is incomparable, an entity unto itself, with its own merits and flaws. There is no control loaf on which to base one’s judgment, it can simply be a matter of personal
taste. Bacteria defines the bread’s salty, sour, sweet, light, dense, fruity, or nutty characteristics. The magic, and the frustration, lies in having absolutely no control over what characteristics a new dough might take on. In a world where we scale things to the half gram, that is something that I feel challenged by and have falled in love with. Well, that, and the extremes that people go to in caring for a starter. Baker, and all around badass, Ed Wood, was assigned by the National Geographic to rediscover how the Egyptians baked the first leavened bread. The first bakery had Photo Credit: aeraweb.org been unearthed and his task was to try to recreate the most authentic sourdough in history. The process was lengthy, and included Kamut flour, which is an ancient relative of today’s wheat, and which has a buttery flavor. According to legend, Kamut grain came from the time of the pharaohs of ancient Egypt. To this, they added local, wild yeasts captured by Wood in Giza. Literally guided by hieroglyphics, Wood had to decipher the procedure in order to bake the bread in clay pots. The bread was photographed and gobbled down hours later. Not as tedious, but still incredible were the efforts of Alaskan Sourdough travelers. They wrapped their sourdough pot in a canvas tarp and took it to bed with them to keep it from freezing. There was no camera crew waiting in the morning to document their valiant efforts, only below freezing weather, a layer of fresh snow to blaze through, and empty stomachs to feed with this amazing bread that has the deepest history and inspires passion amongst its devotees. It is events like these that imbue the history of sourdough with magic and mystery.
February 28. 2014
FOOD & BEVERAGE
9
Clubs & Committees On Campus Looking for something to do on campus? We have over thirty student organizations and clubs, each focusing on different aspects of our industry. Whether you are a new student or one who has been here for a while, here is your opportunity to get involved on campus, broaden your knowledge, and network with others who share your common interests. Use the email addresses to contact the club leader for more information. Baachus Wine Society The Bacchus Wine Society is dedicated to the appreciation and perception of highly esteemed wines and spirits through tastings, special events, and wine excursions. baachus@cia.culinary.edu Baking and Pastry Society The Baking & Pastry Arts Society allows all CIA students to come together and share a common interest in the baking and pastry arts through lectures and demonstrations by industry professionals, student competitions, and trips to professional baking and pastry shops bakersclub@cia.culianary.edu Black Culinarian Society (BCS) The mission of the Black Culinarian Society is to introduce our student body to the cultural and culinary traditions that represent who we are through food. We will accomplish this by enriching the CIA community through culinary demonstrations, lectures, and various culinary events that will showcase the traditions and culinary treasures that comprise our numerous and diverse cultures and backgrounds. Through these various events and activities, we hope to deepen their personal knowledge of our cuisines and cultures. blackculinariansociety@cia.culinary.edu Brew Club The Brew Club is a society of students interested in learning about domestic and international beer and its production. Members seek to increase awareness in quality beer in local regions and share the love of good beer with the entire CIA community brewclub@cia.culina Catholics at the Culinary Catholics at the Culinary is an organization of people who come together to promote and preserve our Catholic tradition. As friends we strive to live and share our joy in Jesus Christ through the expression of fellowship, service, and liturgy. catholicsattheculinary@cia.culinary.edu CIA Paintball Coalition The CIA Paintball Coalition is a group dedicated to the sport of paintball. The CPC is a way for students unfamiliar to the sport, seasoned players, and interested students to come together safely and enjoy the sport of paintball. The CPC will strive to promote safe practices and help build teamwork through the sport. CPC will be a venue for every student on campus to experience paintball and connect with each other over friendly competition. ciapaintball@cia.culinary.edu Culinary Christian Fellowship (CCF) CCF is a nondenominational organization that focuses on growing in Jesus Christ by studying the Bible. Members reach out in fellowship, support, and encouragement to students on campus and in service to the community
Bar & Grill !
And... Make sure to remove this coupon for $1.00 off ANY taco!
christianfellowship@cia.culinary.edu Culinary Notes The Culinary Notes is comprised of individuals who take an active interest and bring together a multitude of music diversity by the love and interest in the musical arts. We exist to provide a meeting ground for music lovers and aid in appreciation for the musical arts. culinarynotes@cia.culinary.edu Culinary Science Club The purpose of this organization is to provide students with the opportunity to meet and critically evaluate current journal articles and other topics of scientific merit and relevance to the culinary field. culinaryscience@cia.culinary.edu Eta Sigma Delta The CIA chapter of Eta Sigma Delta International Hospitality Management Honor Society serves as a communications and alumni network, career development resource, research outlet, and sponsor of student activities and community service. etasigmadelta@cia.culinary.edu Fair Trade @ CIA The purpose of Fair Trade @ The CIA is to create awareness amongst the student body of what Fair Trade is and its impact on poverty-stricken countries through lectures, demonstrations, and tastings fairtradecia@cia.culinary.edu Friends of Chabad Association (FCA) The Friends of Chabad Association at the CIA provides living Judaism to the students at the CIA within the framework of Chassidic Judaism, and works to foster awareness of Jewish cultural and spiritual heritage. Garden Society The Garden Society is a student organization formed for the purpose of providing students a beautiful creative space. It is devoted to the propagation of both edible and non-edible plants, as well as any and all products made there of. gardensociety@cia.culinary.edu Gay-Straight Alliance CIA Gay Straight Alliance celebrates the power of a diverse student body and promotes respect for all members of our campus community. Alliance supports the CIA’s educational mission and core values by advocating positive awareness of lesbian, gay, bisexual, and transgender people. Korean Association CIA (KACIA) KACIA promotes diversity on campus by spreading knowledge of the Korean culture through discussions and tastings. In addition, KACIA strives to help Korean students adjust to the culture and climate of the CIA so they can become more productive members of the campus community Masala Club The Masala Club aims to attract interested students on campus to join the organization in order to inform and educate them about South Asian (Indian Sub-continent i.e. India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh etc.) culture, primarily to do with food. The Masala Club also wishes to learn about the world views and perceptions about these cultures in order to make meetings and events interesting and symbiotic. Mixology Club This club endeavors to educate and inspire students about the everexpanding world of spirits and mixed drinks mixology@cia.culinary.edu Slow Foods CIA Slow Food members are committed to understanding and redefining the role of the chef in the evolution of gastronomy, regarding issues of ecology, political economies, and culture through the lens of sustainability and fairness slowfood@cia.culinary.edu Student Government Association (SGA) SGA is dedicated to serving the CIA student body and working with administration in order to implement new policies and bring changes to the CIA campus. sga@cia.culinary.edu Spirit Committee The purpose of this committee is to bring the school closer and promote awareness of school events. We hope to create a process whereby we can better communicate both faculty and student run events to the student body. SPICE (Student Programming Igniting Campus Entertainment) SPICE is the CIA student programming board in charge of planning the major student events such as Stars and Stripes, Wicked Weekend, and Deep Freeze Weekend. Along with the event filled weekends, SPICE brings programs like psychics, movies nights, musical acts, and craft nights to campus throughout the year. If you enjoy event planning and want to bring some of your ideas to life then this is the club for you. spice@cia.culinary.edu The Word Poetry Club The Word is a club for students interested in writing and performing slam poetry Veterans Association and Auxillary The purpose of this organization is to assist current, incoming, and alumnus veterans with issues pertaining to education, medical needs, and general support when dealing with the U.S. Veterans Administration ciavets@cia.culinary.edu While we try to provide up-to-date information, things change often on campus. Visit Club-Con on Wednesday, March 5 to learn more about the different clubs available to join on campus, and talk to club members about what to expect!
LA PAPILLOTE
10
G raduation S peaker : W ill G uidara
General Manager and Co-Owner of Eleven Madison Park and Provided by: Shelly Loveland, Creative Services- Writer/Editor NoMad Will Guidara is the general manager and co-owner of the critically acclaimed restaurant Eleven Madison Park and the casually elegant NoMad, both in New York City. A native of Sleepy Hollow, NY, Mr. Guidara has been immersed in the restaurant industry since the age of 13. He is a graduate of the School of Hotel Administration at Cornell University in Ithaca, NY and attended culinary school in the north of Spain. Mr. Guidara began his dining room training at Spago Beverly Hills. He then went on to work in various roles for Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, including dining room manager at Tabla, general manager at Café 2 and Terrace 5 at the Museum of Modern Art, and operations director for The Modern,
Café 2, and Terrace 5. In 2006, Mr. Guidara became the general manager of Eleven Madison Park, where he spearheaded the transformation of the restaurant from French brasserie to fine dining. Under his leadership, Eleven Madison Park has garnered four stars from The New York Times, five stars from the Forbes Travel Guide, three Michelin stars, a coveted spot on the S. Pellegrino list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, and many other industry honors. Along with Chef Daniel Humm, Mr. Guidara purchased Eleven Madison Park from the Union Square Hospitality Group in 2011. That same year, their book Eleven Madison Park: The Cookbook was published. Mr. Guidara and Chef Humm then collaborated to open NoMad, located in The NoMad
Hotel, in the spring of 2012. By June, their second restaurant had received a three-star review from The New York Times. Inspired to answer the question, “What is New York cuisine?,” Mr. Guidara and Chef Humm wrote I Love New York: Ingredients and Recipes, which was published in 2013. A Zagat Service All-Star, Mr. Guidara is a frequent guest lecturer throughout the country and is regarded as one of the most influential leaders in the restaurant industry. He is a supporter of Share Our Strength and Citymeals-onWheels.
AOS Graduating Class of February 28, 2014 Culinary Arts Group #1 Front: Jon-James Vazquez Calum MacKenzie Perry Liu Collin Pawlak Christopher Otten
Back: Eaksuree Poonsiripukdeekul Jacob Funk Andre Garza David Cullinan Lawerence Cihanek
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front: Eric Lombardo Caitlin Christman Viola Rogers Amy Mehrtens Brianna Wellmon Nashota Rainey-Webb Shirel Berger
Back: David Sabesan Oscar Bernal Patrick Hurley Peter Deitrick Alfonso Quinones Kimberlee Bennett Nathan Pearlman Mickala Dorman Yusra Hassan
Culinary Arts Group #3 Front: Austin McKenna Shaina Sutton Aditi Sonajirao Jin Seo Lee
Baking and Pastry Front: Laura Pencke Lindsay Ontko Ariana Hiller Noemi Padilla Joy lee Ren Taylor Joshua Suhr
Back: Sydney Estrada Meaghan Buchanan Zachary Hermes Symone Edwards Danielle DePasquale Sarah Garcia Jacqueline Rooney Nicole Lopinsky Sarah Abbas
Back: Beau Widener Benjamin Pomales Christian Gustin Stephen Sommer
POT LUCK
February 28, 2014
11
C onsider T hese L ife L essons BY: Daniel Jarosz, BPS Culinary Arts
It does not have to be Thanksgiving for one to be grateful. Be thankful for every day you are given on this planet. Do not take a single moment, person, or anything for granted. It may seem cliché, but we really only live once, and anything can happen at any time. So live each moment to the fullest and appreciate every second. Embrace the now with a smile because there is so much to be happy about. Just look at all the things you have accomplished thus far in life – I mean, you’re here, aren’t you? You’re at The Culinary Institute of America, the top culinary school in the country! I enjoy taking a moment to step back, reflect on my past, and understand all the good things I have accomplished. It makes me feel bubbly inside to understand that of which I am capable. Reflecting on one’s accomplishments tends to bring forth emotions of pride and a feeling of success and achievement. Be content with your progress. Although there may be some hardships or struggle involved, understand that everyone experiences them, and they do not define you. Take every opportunity as a learning experience and grow from it. As they say, “experience equals wisdom.” Take a minute and think about that. Oprah Winfrey is full of wisdom and addresses a lot of life lessons and spirituality on her shows. She once said, “If you know better, you do better.” The older you get, the wiser you become. The longer you live, the more you know. Everyone makes mistakes, but if you learn from the ones you make, then there was a reason for making them. For as long as you breathe air, make sure you appreciate the little things in life. For example,
when someone holds the door or worries about you. Even a simple, “How are you?” can make the biggest difference in the world. Show the people around you that you actually care about them. Do not take anyone for granted in life, especially loved ones and friends. Appreciate those around you because you honestly do not know what tomorrow brings. Complacency and procrastination get you no where, and reduce the quality of your life. Choose not to focus on the bad. Stop complaining about the negative and put your energy where it matters, in front of you, on the task at hand, which hopefully you have in your life because you are passionate about it. Eliminate any unnecessary baggage or any negativity standing in your way. What you deserve, quite frankly, is the best, so do not settle for less. Your dreams and goals should be where you focus your energy. Karma is real. Be kind. Your actions will come back to haunt you. What you give, you will get back, so pay close attention to the choices you make and how you treat others. Often the good comes back to you unexpectedly, offering you a tremendous break or a bona-fide miracle when you most need it and don’t anticipate it. If you chose to do bad, then be prepared for a rude awakening at some point. You can’t live life underhandedly and expect there will be no consequence. Live your life by the golden rule: do unto others as you would have them do to you. It seems like common sense, yet it is not common practice. Life is the best when we all just work together as a team. Life is too short to stifle the love you feel for
others, hold grudges or be unkind. Don’t burn bridges. Ever. Life can pleasantly, and sometimes unpleasantly, surprise you. Coincidences happen when you are unprepared for them. If you bump into an old colleague, acquaintance or classmate, will it be a happy accident or will you be embarrassed to come face-to-face with someone who you wronged? Keep that in mind. Always try to leave a situation or relationship on a good note. I cannot tell you how many times I have been reunited with people that I thought I would never see again, so if you treat everyone with kindness and respect, you will be ready for every and any possibility. At the end of the day, we all should follow three simple words. Live, laugh, and love. Live your life with the joy that comes from the depths of your soul. Realize that you alone have the sole power to create the world in which you live in and the happiness found within it. And when in doubt, laugh it out. As they say, laughter is the best medicine, and most things are not as serious as they seem. Instead of raging or stressing over little things, picture how you will view the situation in five years. Will it still be a significant event in your life? Most of the time, the answer will be “no.” So, go ahead and laugh. Last but not least, love is one of the most important facets of life. Be loving to everyone you meet, and you will find that love coming back to you in a multitude of ways. Make an effort to live each day with laughter, love and appreciation. You alone are responsible for the life you wish to create for yourself.
That’s how it translates now.” Many students have their revelations in the midst of their early career. Some seek an alternative career path, others change industries completely. But that’s the greatest thing about it. We’re conditioned as chefs to be adaptable, to make sacrifices, to make adjustments. Season. Taste. Tweak. Taste again. In this seemingly ever-changing industry, chefs, restaurateurs and even food journalists need to be flexible. Ladner offers the notion of the value of online bloggers in comparison with well-known expert writers in culinary and hospitality. “What’s interesting now, as you guys know, is that press and attention can come from so many different outlets. I think the New York Times stills hold a lot of weight in Manhattan. The older food writers like John Mariani for Esquire, Alan Rich for GQ, or Jeffrey Steingarten for Vogue, these gentlemen have been doing this for decades, they are professional food journalists. I was having dinner with Alan Richman (of the Travel Channel’s “Man vs. Food”) a few weeks ago
and he said it’s crazy, because he laments over these stories that he writes, and does exhaustive research and works on the story for months and it’s not necessarily given any more value than a blogger who takes as much time as it takes to leave the restaurant and go to their house to write the article. And there’s no difference in value to the consumer. It’s very frustrating for guys like that.” I’m anxious. I’m making the best of my remaining days here at the Culinary. I recall my very own revelation prior to enrolling nearly a year and a half ago. It wasn’t as much as how it got me started, more so in how it fueled me to spark a bigger fire in my passion for cooking. A friend asked me not long ago, “Why do you want to cut tomatoes for the rest of your life?” I vaguely knew the answer then, but today, it is more defined and true. Maybe I’m meant to cut tomatoes. Maybe I’m meant to make tomato sauce. Maybe I’m meant to be the next Chef Boyardee. Bottom line, as Chef Mark Ladner put it, “Don’t lose sight of your dream.”
fundamental of fundamentals, seasoning and preserving of food.” Have you ever wondered what makes salt so vital? Why it’s ubiquitous in our kitchens? James Beard Award winning writer Mark Kurlansky decided to do just that, and traces salt from it’s past as a method of de facto currency (the word salary comes from the latin word for salt) to the present, and from mines and marshes all the way to the cardboard boxes and shakers that we are now accustomed to. This will make you care at least a bit more about one of the few things that’s absolutely essential to our business. The Perfectionist: Life and Death in Haute Cuisine, by Rudolph Chelminski. Call number: TX649 .L65 C44 2005 According to Chef McCue, this is “a truly amazing piece of literature about the psyche’s pursuit of the unattainable, and the toll it takes on
the human form.” Written in the aftermath of chef Bernard Loiseau’s suicide, whose restaurant had three Michelin stars, this book is written by his friend and noted French food writer. Chef Loiseau committed when newspaper reports hinted that his restaurant might lose its three star status. This book uncovers the reasons for his suicide, addresses the French quest for culinary perfection, and pulls back the curtain on the publishers of the little red book that judges restaurants. If you want to learn more about the Michelin rating system, and the chefs of Nouvelle Cuisine that made it so important, this book is a fascinating introduction. If these two aren’t enough, and you want to read even more, here are a couple more books that Chef McCue thinks are worth your free time Auguste Escoffier: Memories of My Life by Auguste Escoffier
I nterview W ith M ark
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this industry thinking one would be the next Ferran Adria or Thomas Keller? Weekends are gone, birthdays will be missed, your major holidays, will be a working production or service day. Ladner has done over 25 episodes of Iron Chef, working as Batali’s sous chef. There are plenty of reasons for wanting that media spotlight, however. He says, “I mean that’s okay, really it is. I mean there’s room for everything and for everyone. In this day in age, it’s harder and harder to find people like Mario, like people who started the Food Network, like Bobby and Emeril, who really were cooks, who transitioned to entertainers and personalities. And now you find the people who are starting with their shows have degrees in communication and broadcasting, and the food is obviously second now. But you know if you won Top Chef, I mean in terms of the public eye, that is as valuable as winning a James Beard Award, that gets you investors, that gets you Twitter followers, and you know your own place.
ladner
Book Review- Salt: A World History BY: John Schlichting AOS Culinary Arts
There are so many books in our library on campus, and many of us are so busy here that it’s really hard to tell when a book will be worth our time. To assist you in deciding, in each issue of La Papillote, we’ll give you our chefs’ recommendations of books that they love and that you will hopefully enjoy and learn from as well. Included with each of the books titles are also the call numbers, to make it that much easier to find the books in the stacks. Chef McCue, the man, the Culinary Institute graduate and instructor who seems to care about nothing more than making this institution, as well as it’s students, the best they both can be, is our inaugural chef for this issue, and here are some of his picks for books that are well worth your time: Salt: A World History, by Mark Kurlansky. Call number: TN 900 .K87 2003 Chef McCue calls this “A great view of the development of civilization based on the
All In Good Taste
A Commentary on Life at the CIA as a Nontraditional Student BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary
Seems to me that everyone has been having a whirlwhind of a time since classes have been back in session after the holiday break. I am no exception. Things seem to be moving at warp speed, I feel busier with classes than I was last year, and I can’t believe how fast it’s all going. When we started back to school, I was planning to graduate in seven months. We’re down to five months. It’s almost scary. So much to do between now and then. I’ll need to update my resume, start looking for jobs, get through wines class, pass my 5th term practical, and finish restaurant row. I know things from here on out are going to accelerate even faster. I can’t believe I’m either through, or currently in, all of my classes from fourth term except for Cuisines of the Mediterranean and Cuisines of Asia. Then fifth term, done! The funny thing, too, about coming back after extern is that you don’t come back to production classes. You come back to Baking and Pastry. Then you go through Garde Manger. Neither of these classes is a production pressure cooker. Which is good. You sort of need the break after externship, but it can be a little disconcerting, even dangerous, because there is a tendency to enjoy walking around talking to your classmates, laughing with the chefs (clearly, I did not have Chef Kowalski, but I did hear the students screaming on the other side of the wall), and studying for other classes in your down time (yes, it actually happened). You drop your guard. You get complacent. Then, of course, when you’re thrown back into a production kitchen, and your chef starts to yell at you, in your head, you go all hippie on him: “Dooooooood, what’s the big deallllll… Chill outttttttttt…. I’m workin’ on ittttttt….” I have started to laugh at the things we are required to adjust to here. Schedules, classes, chef’s personalities, homework requirements, group projects – it’s constant. I swear nothing fazes me now. But that’s the point of all this, now isn’t it? I’ve been trying to savor the moments here, good AND bad. It literally seems like yesterday that I started. I remember it all so vividly, it was just last year, I was so deer-in-headlights in Fundies that it wasn’t even funny. Then, I was just waiting for it all to “click” so that I would be this amazing chef. It never happened. It still hasn’t happened. But that doesn’t have anything to do with me or my ability to learn. It’s that learning to cook is a process. The field is so vast. The ingredients are so numerous. And only practice can make your technique perfect. It takes time. You don’t become a chef overnight just because you’re in culinary school (even though your friends and family think that’s the case). I recently laughed in the faces of two friends who are currently in Fundies. I told them that I was in charge of the smoker in my Garde Manger class, and we put the wood chips in over the charcoal, dry, instead of soaking them. They immediately started telling me that this was wrong, and that I needed to soak the chips. I told them that I was doing what the chef told me to do. They told me that I needed to tell my chef to soak the chips. Right. My chef was around sixty-five years old, I’d say. He probably has at least 45 years of cooking experience, which is more than both of their ages put together. I said, “Okay, what is it that I should do? You want me to go tell my chef, ‘These two guys who are currently in Fundies told me to tell you that we need to soak our wood chips first.’” At that point, they
understood how ridiculous they sounded, and they laughed, too. It was one of my favorite moments here. Once you get here, there is a temptation to talk as though you’re a expert. Newsflash: you’re not. We’re so far from it. This is the beginning of our journey, and our real journey doesn’t even start until we walk across that stage and wrest that degree from President Ryan’s hands. And more than anything, if you make an effort here to listen more than talk, to be humble rather flex your ego, what you’ll learn is that there is usually more than one way to do things, and one method may be better for one thing, and another method would be used for something else. Cooking is nuanced. Listen to your chef. Their resumes are long and impressive. There’s no way you know more than they do, or you’d be teaching the class, instead of taking it. One more thing about the chefs: I like it when they’re strict. As “unfun” as that can be, what that assures me of is that I will likely be getting a good education in their class. Everyone will be required to wear their uniform properly. Students will not be able to manipulate them and get away with things. Tardiness and absences won’t be tolerated. Homework will be collected. The jokers, the slackers, and the perennially hung-over won’t be able to lurk on the outskirts of class, making their own rules and disregarding how it affects the serious students in the class. I know that I’m raining on people’s parades here, but when you get out of school and make that payment every month on your student loans, you’re going to wish you got your money’s worth, trust me. My education here means the world to me. Because I was very, very unhappy in my professional life before I got it. This is your investment in your future. Take it seriously. A lot of people have come up to me and given me negative things to write about here in this column. Things to spotlight, to point out, to highlight, to complain about. First of all, that’s not what this column is about. Second, it’s not who I am. If I have an issue, I’ll go to the source, that’s the only way these things get fixed. But I digress. The point is, this column is about my journey here. I feel that my perspective is somewhat of an educated one, considering that I have attended five other colleges: the University of Pittsburgh, Penn State, the University of Manchester (in Manchester, England), Community College of Allegheny County (Pittsburgh), and Point Park University (also in Pittsburgh). So, I have good perspective as to how it compares to other educational institutions. Yet, this school continues to impress me in the lengths it will go to for its students, as well as the ideas, projects, and events coming out of it, and the networking opportunities it provides. The accessibility of these things to all of our students is exactly why this school is as reputable as it is. Students get spoon-fed their first job here, as well as how to succeed at it. For everyone, this school is been a crazy whirlwind of sleep deprivation, utter exhaustion, homework, frustration, tight kitchen working space, early mornings, late nights, reading, writing, and scrambling to get it all done. I wouldn’t change one second of it. And I will tell you, in five months, I’m not going to be ready to leave.
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