Volume 33, No.41
April 11, 2014
Alumni Spotlight: A Star in the Making
BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary
Corey Siegel is a busy man.
In addition to his full-time sous chef job at the The Vintage Club, a country club in Palm Desert, CA, Corey is training on the 2016 American Culinary Federation (ACF) team. He will be competing in the Expogast Villeroy & Boch Culinary World Cup, November 22–26, 2014, in Luxembourg. In addition, he will be competing at the 2016 Internationale Kochkunst Ausstellung (IKA) International Culinary Exhibition in Erfurt, Germany, which is commonly known as the “culinary olympics.” A graduate of The Culinary Institute of America, Siegel is not new to competition. He competed with Richard Rosendale, who at the time was the executive chef at The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, WV, at the 2012 Bocuse D’or USA Finals, which was held here at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. They took first place, meaning that Siegel was at Chef Rosendale’s side as his commis chef for the 2013 Bocuse D’or competition in Lyon, France, where they placed seventh out of twenty-four teams. Siegel is just 23 years old. How does one accomplish so much at such a young age? Siegel was chosen for the ACF team not only on his ability to cook, but also because of personal drive and passion. Hard work, focus, and dedication are the keystones that have led to his success and rapid rise in the food industry. And planning. Knowing that he wanted to try out for the ACF team, he mapped out his plan while still at school. While at the CIA, Siegel says he didn’t party much, and just put his head down and learned to cook the best he could while attending school. He externed at Westchester Country Club under then-Executive Chef Ed Leonard, who was the captain for ACF Culinary Team USA from 1998 to 2008, winning 5 championships and garnering more than 30 international gold medals. While there, he learned that most of the sous chefs there were graduates of the Greenbrier apprenticeship program. One of them nicknamed Siegel “Rosendale.” The first time he was called that, Siegel responded, “What are you talking about? My name is Corey.” “Just look him up,” said the sous chef. “Once I looked him up, I said, ‘Whoa! I have some high standards to live up to now,’” Siegel says. It was an indication of things to come. After graduation, he was accepted into the Greenbrier apprenticeship program, and began his journey alongside then-Executive Chef Richard Rosendale. During the second year, he was headed to a demo with Chef Rosendale. Siegel was telling Rosendale about a competition he wanted to enter, and Rosendale asked him how old he was. When Siegel told Rosendale that he was 19, Rosendale asked him if he wanted to compete with him in the Bocuse D’or, where the commis chef is required to be under the age of 22. Of course, the answer was yes. That was the start of rounds of planning and practice. He didn’t initially realize the magnitude of what he signed up for with the Bocuse D’or competition. Overall, he knew that it
Culinary Culture
was going to be tough. He had a little bit of knowledge about the competition and what goes into competing, but the time investment, along with the organization of the logistics behind it, was a lot more work than he imagined. “During apprenticeship, you work your eight-hour shift, if not overtime, and then you stay up all night or as many hours as needed to work on all the training programs – the buffet platters, five-course, cold food competition work, then we would do our training practice,” Siegel says. “Mondays were my day off, so on Mondays, we would do full runs at practice. So, it was working seven days a week, and getting two or three hours of sleep a night,” he says. “Which was absolutely insane,” he adds. He did this for two years. “It’s an adrenaline rush, really. I would say that the last two years were an adrenaline rush. You just knew that you had a goal, and the goal was to stand on that podium over in France. Sleeping wasn’t going to get us there.” In the basement of the Greenbrier was a war bunker that was converted into an exact replica of the kitchen they’d be working in at the Bocuse D’or in France. Sponsors donated equipment, and Rosendale and Siegel trained with loud recordings of past competitions blasting loudly through speakers, so that when they went over to France for the competition, they wouldn’t be overwhelmed with all the noise. Across the hall, they had a room that they called the “war room.” It was their game plan and logistics area, where they would construct a platter or talk about planning all the trips. “We had a calendar that had all these things mapped out for us - the whole year. There would be an “E” for exercise, and a “P” for practice,” Siegel reports. There was a lot to balance. He learned from Chef Rosendale, a veteran of over fifty competitions in his careers. “He’s just an extremely organized chef,” Siegel says of Rosendale. “He taught me a lot. He even labeled his clothes for what day and cryovaced them when we traveled. ‘This is Sunday’s outfit, this is Monday’s, this is Tuesday’s…’” he says. “It sounds really OCD, but for us, it was a way of life. We had to balance our schedules like that.” They spent two weeks training at the French Laundry in California, and spent a week with Grant Achatz in Chicago. All of the training paid off. Winning the Bocuse D’or USA meant
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that they were going to France for the main competition. There, they placed seventh out of twenty-four teams. Now, working at The Vintage Club in Palm Desert, CA, he uses what he learned while preparing for the Bocuse D’or and applies it to his training on the ACF team. Every three weeks, they practice at a predetermined location. Often, he is flying to a different destination in the U.S. for practice, but the main practice location is located at the College of Dupage in Glen Ellyn, IL. The ACF pays for all the traveling, and the sponsors also support these activities. Food, travel, and lodging is all paid for by the ACF for the team members. They do not, however, get paid to be part of this team. Siegel says that getting time off work is one of the biggest challenges that you have when you’re on the team. He says that one has to work at a country club or a resort, because places like that have enough staff that they are able to allow team members to take time off for practice. “You can’t be at the French Laundry, and be on the team. They’d say, ‘You want three days off every week? No way,’” Siegel says. Siegel’s mother, Allison Siegel, is a CIA alumnae. Her father, Alfred Rosenthal, who is Siegel’s grandfather, is Photo Courtesy of Bonjwing Lee a Life Fellow of the CIA and has a long rich history with the school, although he did not go to the school. Siegel’s mother currently works for Aramark in Arlington, VA, in hospital foodservice. As far as what’s in store for him in the future, he’s not sure. “The competitions are just another step for me in learning. I think what I love about competing is the networking, the people that you meet, and getting to travel. In the last year, I’ve been able to go to Germany, Luxembourg, Belgium and France – all on someone else’s dime,” he says. “Of course, at the same time, I’ve put in the work and personal growth,” Siegel adds. “Right now I’m looking at most of this as personal growth training so when I do figure out where I’m going to be, I’ll have the skill set that I need to succeed.” There is little doubt that Siegel will succeed, with all that he’s accomplished at such a young age.
FOOD & BEVERAGE
“Student Spotlight: Evan Brady”
P 4-5
P 8-9
“Sweet Beans!”
“The Fog We Live Behind” ON CAMPUS
CENTER SPREAD
P 6-7
“Dining With a Legend”
BACK PAGE
“All in Good Taste”
P 12
LA PAPILLOTE
2
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
April 11, 2014
PUBLISHER
The Student Affairs Division
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Amy Zarichnak
LAYOUT EDITOR
Diane Lam
ADVERTISING MANAGER CONTRIBUTORS Emily Dittmar Chef Freddie Brash Daniel Jarosz Francis Maling Connor White Gareth Alonso Maxine Lambiase
Sue Haug
Alexis Harrington Stephanie Kirkland Gabrielle Thomas Andrew Vinegar Chef David McCue Irena Chalmers Emilio Cera
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Amy Zarichnak, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
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ince our return from externship, we have had two tough chefs. I don’t mind tough chefs. I like the control that they exert over the kitchen, because it yields a more prepared and more organized class, and my classmates don’t use the kitchen time to indulge in immature male shenanigans like wedgies and boasting about how much they drank last night. We recently entered Chef Pardus’s Cuisines of Asia class. I knew absolutely nothing about him beforehand. Since I live off-campus, I don’t hear all the information that gets disseminated and spread throughout the residence halls and campus. So, I knew nothing, I had no preconceived notions about his class, until one of my classmates said that he was transferring to the other Asia’s class in order to avoid having Chef Pardus, who had a reputation as being really tough. Then I started hearing more rumblings about Chef Pardus. I was in Meds class, right beside Pardus’s kitchen. I noticed that he never looked elated, but I also never saw students cowering in corners, or shielding themselves from daily beatings. In fact, all looked quite normal over there. Prepping for the class was painful. There was so much information to go through. He’s got a course blog, for heaven’s sake! There are videos on everything. In addition to that, I was assigned to be sous chef the first couple days. I probably prepped for 7 – 10 hours before the first day of class, if not more. My partner sent me an email at 2:34AM the morning of our first day, saying that he was withdrawing from the class because he was overwhelmed by the prep. My other partner left school, legitimately ill, and was going to sit the block out. I was alone on Day One, with three different dishes to make, and on top of that, I was also sous chef. Gulp. I will not deny that I stepped into that kitchen with much trepidation. I was already nervous as a result of what I had heard, and now, what I had seen: Two people dropping out of the class and a huge amount of prep, more than I’ve done for any other class here so far. I got in the kitchen, and thankfully, I was able to have two people help me. I executed one dish and all the sous chef duties (which is a significant amount), and even though there were videos online of our cooking demos that we were required to watch, Chef Pardus still demo’ed everything again for us. Then, of course, he answered any questions we had. There was also a place on the blog to ask questions that he would try to answer for us the night before so that we could be properly prepared for the day. I asked Chef Pardus a question about my sous chef duties. He replied, “Oh, just do the best you can. I realize it’s Day One and I don’t expect you to have the routine down yet.” Well, wait a minute… That sounded… Normal. And reasonable. I felt a little more comfortable. I still had to go in and be sous chef for two more days, and my fractured team was getting replaced, and there was still upheaval and more work to do, but… the second day, it got easier. By the third day, I had the routine down. In the meantime, I watched Chef Pardus give us enthusiastic and dryly humorous lectures about Asia, its food, and his experiences traveling there. He informed us about ingredients, how to use them, and gave informative demos with information you can really use. Along the way, he yelled at some people. Some people deserved it, and some didn’t, which is the way it is in every class. The thing is, Chef Pardus is self-aware enough to warn you, “I don’t want to yell at you. But if you do this and this and this, it’s going to try my patience, and then I will yell.” When someone accidentally threw away bones that we were going to use for a remouillage, I honestly thought that Chef Pardus was going to have a conniption. You could just feel the storm clouds gather in the room. It was bad. He gathered us ceremoniously around the garbage can. He said, “After I said that we were going to make a remouillage with the bones, someone decided that they were going to throw the bones away instead.” From in the back, a voice piped up. “It was me, Chef,” it said timidly. Startled, Chef Pardus said, “Well, good for you. I’m absolutely shocked that someone admitted to doing this. Good for you for stepping up to the plate. That took some guts. In fact, I appreciate the fact so much that you told me the truth, I don’t have anything else to say. Don’t do it again.” And the issue was over. Fair? I certainly think so. Chef Pardus has us self-evaluate every day on a form, which he comments on and returns to us. He has given me his vote of confidence multiple times, and has chastized me when he knows I can do better. I have never found him to be unfair or even remotely inaccurate. About half way through, I realized that I was really enjoying Chef Pardus’s class, and that I am exceedingly glad that I decided to just go with the flow and not worry too much about what people around me were doing or saying. Chef Pardus is extremely knowledgable, he’s passionate about what he teaches, and I have learned so much in his class. I realized that I was grateful for the videos and all the prep that he makes us do, because it really does make our days go smoother. There is no substitute for being prepared. Does everyone like him? No. But even well-liked chefs have detractors. Chef Pardus runs a tight ship, but there’s nothing wrong with that. It really does make us perform better as students. There is no chaos, and no feeling of the inmates running the asylum, which is occasionally what some classes here can feel like. In addition to all of this, Chef Pardus appreciates diligent, hard working students who are eager to learn. If this is you, you have nothing to fear by going into his class. My fellow students, I will tell you very honestly that you will be very, very, very lucky if you work with a boss you respect and admire. But regardless of who you work for, the common denominator in every equation will be you. How are you going to react? How are you going to deal with the daily demands of a busy kitchen? How are you going to be prepared? If you are prepared to step up to the plate then, then step up to the plate now, in class. Don’t be afraid of a little hard work and getting admonished if you do something wrong. It happens in the real world. Sometimes it’s for your betterment. A little hardship can build really solid character. Don’t shy away from the hard parts in life. That’s the good stuff, my friends. True hardship isn’t a three-week class at the CIA with a chef who wants you to show up prepared. Amy Z. Az772942@cia.culinary.edu “He knows not his own strength who hath not met adversity.” ~ William Samuel Johnson
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The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations Telephone: 845-451-1314 Email: J_morano@culinary.edu Maura A. King Director-Compliance Telephone: 845-451-1429 Email: m_king@culinary.edu
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April 11, 2014
3
The FOG We Live Behind
BY: Diane Lam, AOS Culinary
Waste is always a touchy
a group, we have more gadgets than Home Depot can even fathom… and it’s all ours. Impressive, to be sure, but the subject to bring up. It’s a dirty word things we do in the kitchens are often deserving of a headand yet it occurs naturally. We are shaking. However, the most idiotic of all the misdoings we built to emit waste into the world, perform is dumping greases, fats and oils ignorantly down as our bodies build from within and the drain. expel out just about any way possible. We dump our sewage into a line that feeds into the heart Pure senselessness and misinformed of Poughkeepsie, right around the same area where Vassar individuals may expel more College is located. We waste than others, but at the literally stink up the place end of the day, our carbon from our grease-water footprint gets collectively darker. mixture in our sewage. Take our school, for example. The CIA is a living, Sad to say, but our consuming organism: its voracious appetite is the irresponsibility wreaks day-to-day business of the school, with the students havoc both economically and staff being at the helm as the driving force. As and environmentally. a single unit, we are responsible for over four tons of We spend $100K to waste annually, with about $100,000 a year spent on control our sewage output managing the output of our fats, oil, and grease (FOG) as well as the thousands of alone. dollars in fines. Sewage is This is something to be concerned about and I allowed 100mg of FOG hope that everyone will hear my cry. It’s not a matter Photo Courtesy: CIA Facilities; This is a pipe that in 1L of liquid. We go of money, conservation or social reform. This is a matterhas been clogged by FOG. over the limit constantly purely built around waste and all aspects of wasting. and it is a growing problem that we must fix. The FOG In our kitchens, we have a playground filled with everything causes a clogging in the drains and will cause back up in the you wish you had in your personal kitchen. Cambros pipes. These backups can potentially burst pipes and flood overflowing with stocks and brines and fermentations, and neighborhoods with rancid sewage water. It’s disgusting, and might I mention steam jacketed kettles and combi ovens? As
D.P.O.C?
BY: Michael McCarey, BPS Baking and Pastry
Otherwise known as Degree Programs Operating Council, what
does that name even mean? Second, what does this council do? Who’s even on the council? Are students on it? Degree Programs Operating Council is a committee composed of about 20-25 members of the college’s administration and staff, and yes, students are on the committee. The council exists to assist in coordinating the improvement of education (the degree programs) at all of the CIA’s campuses. While DPOC focuses mainly on priority topics on the Hyde Park campus, there are times where the discussions extend to the branch campuses as well. The council itself is extremely action-focused. It’s not a committee for elaborate or lengthy discussion, but really for all members to go back to their respective departments and constituents to initiate projects that improve the institute for students. Then, the members come back with updates on the implementation of the initiatives, and all major DPOC projects and conclusions are updated to the college’s cabinet, who are senior leaders here at the school. The cabinet members also play a major role in determining topics of discussion to the members of DPOC. For instance, here are a few topics that the DPOC has worked or is working on: • The grades and attendance that are updated regularly by faculty on the student web portal would be expanded to show assignment and test grades throughout the block, rather than just at the end. • Enhancements to the complex dining services system being discussed include students having the ability to re-load culinary cash to their ID cards online rather than going to Student Financial Registration Services. • Improvements to the IT systems -- monitoring student internet usage in order to best provide wi-fi service to the campus. These and many more issues that the DPOC committee focuses on are vital not only to the life of the institution, but the longevity and success of the education that the college offers. The importance of having students at the table is quite monumental, considering that they (especially Student Government Association) had never previously been invited to join in on the conversation. Students came into the mix after another groundbreaking event, President Ryan’s State of the Institute Address for Students. Following that event, President Ryan and Provost Erickson mentioned extending an invitation to the DPOC meetings to the SGA. Specifically, the representative positions of SGA bring the voice of the student body to the table. Often the SGA president & vice president will attend, and they contribute a student’s perspective on a topic, and also bring back important updates to their board. The student opinion and point of view are critical to any new actions the DPOC board begins. It’s much more efficient for students to give input on an initiative that will later affect them at its conception. Historically speaking, SGA was unaware of many of the changes being discussed and therefore was at the end of the pipeline for information and updates. Now that our elected representatives have the ability to aid in the initial discussion, many more departments at the college consult student government regarding the improvements that they’re making. After all, the DPOC projects can only address the needs of the student body when the student body is asked for input. The relatively new connection SGA has to DPOC is a needed addition to the added communication SGA has been creating with members of the administration. SGA also has plans to work toward further collaboration with administration and their initiatives. Certainly, SGA’s seat at the table is invaluable.
happens regularly. So how does this happen? How do we loose control over the separation of wastewater and FOG? Pure carelessness and lazy practices are the answer. Chefs shouldn’t have to watch your every move. You are responsible for responsibly disposing of our FOG here at the school. Please practice a smart protocol when you have to deal with FOG waste. Here are three common practices: 1. Always look for the grease container. It is usually white and looks like an industrial size paint container. This is important during those times when you are pan-frying and the oil has become soiled. Don’t waste time figuring out what to do with it, just go straight to the bucket and dump it. 2. Always try to dump any residual fat into the blue bucket. Were you using that bain marie to mise out your oil for the dressing? Don’t just think that the fat that coats the bain isn’t substantial - it’s enough to meet the allotted 100mg/1L of wastewater! Take it to the blue bin and wipe it out, perhaps go the extra mile and use a dirty paper towel that was chucked into the bin not too long ago—the container will be washed anyway, right? 3. If for some reason, there is FOG that is dumped down the drain, use HOT water to flush the pipes, cold water will solidify the fat and cause major back ups. This is simple. I know that as a school we can push each other to do the right thing.
Butcher and the Beast BY: Emilio Cerra, AOS Culinary
The Butcher and the Beast Society (“a modern approach to
restaurant butchery”) is already a popular club even though it has only been around for a few short months. According to their mission statement, the club is designed to “provide a forum to continue our education of the responsibilities of a restaurant butcher.” BPS student Evan Brady, founder of the club, has been formulating the club long before returning to the CIA after a four year hiatus working in the industry. During his time away Brady had the opportunity to work at Fra’mani Salumi & Specialty Foods as well as working both the butchery and meat station at Lincoln Ristorante in Manhattan. Evan’s extensive personal research and stages at different charcuterie-related ventures in both Texas as well as New York, has given him a wealth of knowledge on the subject. The methods Brady learned, although similar to what is taught here, have been modernized and improved. His goal is to be able to not only demonstrate, but to also teach and really show students the methods and techniques. Club “meetings” have so far taken the form of a demo or a tasting, with a discussion to follow. The plan is to alternate between the two formats encompassing modern butchery techniques, stock making, sauce making, and much more as well as having tours of local vendors and farms such as Hudson Valley Foie Gras and Salumeria Biellese. There will also be a strong focus on the use of technology involved in butchery and charcuterie. These meetings are held on Thursdays at 9:15 pm in the Anheuser-Busch Theater in Roth Hall. The Butcher and the Beast Society was also heavily involved with the Slow Food club in creating the Slochon event.
Info You Should Know About Butcher and the Beast Society:
Meetings: Thursdays, 9:15 pm at the Anheuser-Busch Theater What to expect: Fun and tasty demos, interesting and relevant discussions, lectures and so much more! How to keep up to date: Like them on Facebook ( Look for the Butcher and the Beast Society), and sign-up for their newsletter! Example of meeting: Smoked Foie Gras and Tête de Cochon demo/tasting, rendering pig fat, and turning any oil into a butter-like substance using monoglyceride and diglyceride. in the form of “glice.” Discussion of salts used in curing and their importance. Upcoming meetings to watch for: Discussion and tasting of different brines, demo/tasting involving pâté, a visit to Hudson Valley Foie Gras.
LA PAPILLOTE
4
Reflections as a CIA Student
BY: Joan Porambo, AOS Culinary
When I entered the Hyde Park campus of The Culinary
Institute of America in November of last year, the pure jubilation I felt was evident in the large smile I wore across my face. However, shortly after my arrival to the campus, a bit of gossip came to my ear that quickly subdued my joy. I heard that The Culinary Institute of America had been lowering its standards, and therefore tarnishing the school name. As a new student to campus, I could in no way fathom this claim, and now, as a student preparing to enter the restaurants I know through my experiences that to believe this hearsay is pure idiocy. What I have heard is two-sided. First, that the CIA is becoming lax in the entry requirements and therefore graduating students are sub-par, and second, that how the students present themselves, the hairstyles, the piercings, and the tattoos, directly correlates to a falling caliber of graduates from the CIA. To address the latter of the two, and I cannot speak for everyone, but when I walk into the kitchen, the place I live to be, I only see my team, in full sleeves, with toques on, and not a single piercing. I see a group of people ready to work together and learn, not what makes up their physiques. How anyone looks, or what they wear, has in no way ever deterred me from doing what I came here to do, which is to learn. I encourage everyone else to adopt this attitude. As for the decline in acceptance standards, each person should look into the history of our school, which was founded in 1946 by two women who had never worked in the restaurant industry, for returning World War II veterans. It was not until 1971 that the school was granted a charter for the Associate in Occupational Studies, and it would be another 22 years until our college was approved for both the culinary and baking and pastries Bachelor of Professional Science degrees. Yes, our school has a strong history of strict discipline and tough teaching however, we are still very much an institution built on the principles of hard work, proper training, dedication, and personal growth, not unnecessary judgement and prattle. Those who study, stay focused, and work hard will reap the benefits, regardless of their prior experience or whether or not it meets other peoples’ standards. Also, as anyone who has made it past the fundamental course knows, those who cannot handle the culinary industry will not make it past those first fifteen weeks; my class dropped from sixteen students to
just ten. Usually, if the fundamentals class does not weed out This type of of dedication runs throughout the CIA, and the below-average performers, the first-term practical will. I have admired the commitment, patience, and fortitude This is all relative to something else I have heard since I came of every chef, as well as my professors. These are men and to campus, that each student will get out of this institution, the women who make long and often early commutes to be work that they put into it. This is where the notion of falling here for a minimum of eight hours a day, and somehow still standards baffles me, because each manage to have the utmost composure chef that I have had has put their heart and humility to put up with students and and soul into making sure students not our sometimes moronic moments. So, only know how to physically cook, but remember, the next time you would like that we each understand why we are to say the school has standards that do making the food, as well as its culture, not meet your approval, it should be to history, and significance. Starting with the chef you respect the most, directly to Chef Elizabeth Briggs in fundamentals, his or her face. a chef who instills the essential However, I am only one student, and knowledge of the culinary world with a I myself have one quarter of my hair stern hand and unyielding confidence, shaved off, and have struggled and had but who will also call out to students to put forth a lot of effort while I have down a hallway to say a cheerful hello been here. So, I am not one to judge after class, or who would take time to people on their appearance or skill level talk to and mentor students who were too quickly. Nonetheless, I appreciate falling behind. To Chef Mark Elia the sacrifice it takes to work in this and Chef Howard “Corky” Clark, two industry and the care that comes with men who are truly masters of their molding the minds of future chefs, and crafts, and who have more knowledge to hear that people feel our school is in about the mammalian and ichthyoid Chef Rudolf Spiess is an inspiration to many anyway less than stellar strikes a chord students. (Photo Courtesy of the CIA) anatomies than Jack Hanna and Jacques with me. Furthermore, I am unaware of Cousteau combined. Moreover, these two men possess a the presence of any trees in the area, or anywhere in the deep passion for sharing their knowledge and skills with world, that rain down hundred dollar bills. So, if there are hundreds of students, often on an individual basis. Returning indeed students who can afford to be here and be lazy and from an externship further highlights the reasons the CIA afford to retake classes because they do not want to work, has achieved such high standards, as the Baking and Pastry more power to them; I do not believe the majority can afford Program course highlights an even more scientific side to the these luxuries and I am almost certain the real world will industry, and with truly talented and exciting chefs, like Chef eat them alive. After already graduating from a four-year Rudolf Spiess, who inspires creativity and excite spassion institution, I can proudly say that I can not imagine a better in students. Finally, the knowledge each chef possesses and more fulfilling education than the one I am receiving becomes even more evident in classes such as Cuisines of at The Culinary Institute of America. Personally, I think the the Americas, the first class where students are introduced only improvement the school could make would be to add to regional cuisines. I had Chef William Phillips, a chef who a course in humility into the curriculum, but again, that is not only owns nearly every book on cuisine indigenous to the just my opinion. Americans, but who can also recall all facts from these books, has a plethora of experience, and who can communicate and educate students on this information and cooking techniques.
L ast Mea l a t e l Bu l l i
BY: Shruti Sahni, AOS Culinary
D
“ o you want to go for the last meal at elBulli?” President Tim Ryan recieved this email in 2011 from Nathan Myhrvold, author of “Modernist Cuisine.” Of course the answer was yes! President Ryan immediately took this amazing opportunity to dine at elBulli one last time before it closed. After Ferran Adria visited The Culinary Institute of America’s campus in March, President Ryan gave a presentation on his meal there, which was the last meal served at the iconic restaurant before it closed. Accompanying President Ryan at the dinner were Thierry Rautureau, Stephen Shaw, Maxim Bilet, Johnny Iuzinni, Nathan Myhrvold and two of his “Modernist Cuisine” coauthors. After arriving in Barcelona and having breakfast at Pinotxo Bar in La Boqueria, and then later a meal at El Celler de Can Roca, a few hours drive later they were in the town of Rosas for their Final Meal at elBulli. After a short wait for elBulli to open its doors for their final guests, they were on the patio ready to be served “cocktails.” Eighteen different cocktails in a span of twenty minutes were served and none of them came in glasses. Because it’s elBulli, none of the cocktails looked like... well, a cocktail. The start of the cocktails was a pina colada pillow. Every cocktail was a beautiful hand-held, bite-size snack. The cocktail that impressed President Ryan was the pistachio ravioli. It was made out of obulato sheets. Obulato sheets are rare edible sheets used in Japan by doctors to pack medicines, which are consumed with the pills. Chef Adria used it to make a ravioli in the year at a time when it was not even heard of or found on internet. They finished the cocktail course with wonton
made of rose petals. Once they were done with the cocktails, they moved into the kitchen, where they had their table reserved. Here their senses were stimulated by fifty different courses in a span of four hours. All the courses were broken down into different themes. They started off with the Japanese theme. The most stunning was the caviar cream and hazelnut caviar, where one side of the plate had caviar cream with hazelnut on top made to look like caviar. The other side, of course, had hazelnut cream topped with caviar. Next up was the truffle theme. Thin slices of truffle arranged to look like petals of flower were served, along with more dishes made with truffles. The seafood theme came next, and consisted of steamed baby eels and octopus shabu-shabu with dashi broth. Following that theme was a Spanish theme, of which one of the courses served was the tomato tartare. A series of game dishes came after that, the stunner of this group being hare ravioli with bologesa and blood. This dish was served with what appeared to be a glass of blood. Adria just wanted to see how many guests would have the courage to consume something that looked exactly like blood, which was, in fact, made from beet juice. The cheese theme consisted of four
Photo Courtesy of: El Bulli courses, and finally, they reaced the sweets theme. The jaw dropper here was the mini donuts, which were coconut filled donuts frozen and coated with chocolate. On every bite there was a gush of coconut filling that erupted in the mouth. Once finished with their meal they were taken back to the patio to celebrate, and chocolates of all kinds were displayed for consumption with assorted organic herbal teas. After having a meal of over fifty-one courses, they weren’t so much full, but instead incredibly grateful to be part of the last supper at elBulli.
April 11, 2014
ON CAMPUS
STUDENT SPOTLIGHT: BY: Emilio Cera, AOS Culinary
In the short time that Evan Brady
has been back in the Hudson Valley, he has returned to The Culinary Institute of America to be part of the brand new BPS Culinary Science degree program, he works at CIA instructor Mark Elia’s own butcher shop (Elia’s Meat Market, Smokehouse & Deli), and he’s also started an exciting club here on campus. All this and he shows no sign of slowing down. Brady grew up a short drive down Highway 9 in Wappinger Falls, NY. After high school, he first pursued video compositing before quickly realizing that chemistry, especially in relation to food, was something he found much more interesting. He appreciates the fact that he can apply this food chemistry knowledge to his own home kitchen. His biggest issue before attending he CIA was not knowing how to cook. “I’ve driven by the CIA my entire life, but never knew this was the culinary mecca that it is,” Brady says with a laugh. Even before entering the CIA, Brady knew that charcuterie and salumi was something that interested him. This passion stemmed from having grown up with his mother’s side of family being of Sicilian/American descent. An early experience with a charcuterie club on campus helped reinforce that. “Really my first intro to good food was doing little projects for this charcuterie club. And then I got super into it” says Brady. During his time in the AOS program Brady connected particularly well with Chef Mark Elia due to his love for meat fabrication. He also met Chef Francisco Migoya through a club on campus. After graduating from the AOS program in July of 2010, Brady became the production supervisor for Fra’mani Salumi & Specialty Foods. Fra’mani produces high quality products but done on a large scale, orders being nothing less than 5,000
Evan B r ad y
pounds at a time. The monotony of such a huge enterprise got the better of him. “It’s just so big that it got so redundant to me, I was going crazy” says Brady . “This isn’t what I loved about charcuterie. I love the small time craft of it -- and I missed restaurants.” After reinforcing his love for cured meats, and realizing he was not interested in working at such a high volume
5
is to become the meat cook. This obviously stunned Brady since the meat cook was one of the most demanding and important stations. “What do you say, just ‘Yes, chef!’” says Brady, adding that although being very excited, he was also terrified. “Finding confidence as a cook is hard, and it’s different for each person,” comments Brady. Using his fear of failure as motivation, he learned how to manage having five dishes along with all the garnishes to go with them under his responsibility. Testing for medium rare steaks was something Brady also had to master, doing this using an immersion circulator to cook a steak to perfect medium rare and then learning the exact amount of heat emitted by an inserted cake tester. After a time, even though he enjoyed the challenges and rewards of such a demanding station, Evan realized that he missed the butchery. Having proved to himself that he could work at a “fine dining restaurant for a fine dining chef” he decided that it wasn’t the path for him. During a short stint working with a friend and business partner as the executive chef of a “pop-up” restaurant, he was able to Photo Courtesy of: Facebook.com continue his education by traveling and staging production facility, he returned home to the Hudson Valley in around Texas. During this time his concept of the Butcher and order to find a new direction. Upon his return, Chef Migoya the Beast Society began to take shape. suggested to him that he take the position of manager in training The BPS in Culinary Science program attracted Brady for Apple Pie Bakery and Cafe, telling him he would be a good because he knew he wanted to further his education with a fit. bachelor’s degree. The program at the CIA appealed to his Working for Chef Migoya was a tremendous experience for interest in food chemistry. He also knew that he wanted to start Brady. “Chef Migoya was the only chef out of all of them here a club to teach other students what he had learned so far. From that still kept in touch with the fine dining industry.” says Brady. Fra’mani to Lincoln Ristorante, and even his stages, Evan had While in the position of MIT, Brady had the opportunity to gained a wealth of knowledge and wanted to bring all these work with the research chef from Mugaritz (located in Rentería, techniques back to his alma mater. Spain), as well as meet Nathan Myhrvold (author of “Modernist Immediately upon his return this past January, The Butcher Cuisine”) and Alexander and Aki Talbot (of the blog Ideas in and the Beast Society was formed. It was important to Brady Food), all due to their own connection to Chef Migoya. “It that this club be as professional as possible, something he takes opened up the doors for my career in the future,” says Brady. great pride in. The first step was setting up all the logos and the After the one-year MIT program ended, Brady staged and got demo ”lesson plans.” He then began building an infrastructure a job at Lincoln Ristorante in Manhattan, again with help from to share information and keep in touch with the other students. Chef Migoya. Lincoln Ristorante is both notable for being a He decided to use Mail Chimp, an online drag-and-drop HTML one Michelin star restaurant as well as being run by a former email program, which allows him to not only have people sign executive chef and sous chefs from Thomas Keller’s Per Se. up on their own as well as being able to integrate the use of an This experience showed Evan what it was like to work in a very iPad at the meetings. professionally run kitchen with fantastic food being served. Finally Brady has finally found his direction and has Brady started there by making the pasta for the restaurant before been able to develop long time goals. His love for butchery, quickly moving to the position of assistant butcher. Hard work charcuterie, espresso, and the “café atmosphere” has made him and dedication paid off for Brady, he quickly found himself in realize that opening his own local butcher shop that sells housethe position of head butcher. This allowed Brady to absorb a made charcuterie and delicious sandwiches with artisan bread wealth of knowledge of not only butchery and fish fabrication, is am absolute must. “That’s my ultimate dream, because that is but he was also in charge of making all the charcuterie and my favorite food, and it’s my favorite atmosphere,” says Brady. salumi for the restaurant, as well as preparing all the stocks. All Although only 25 years old, Brady has already found this was done using the methods modeled after Per Se, and by his calling and shares this piece of sage advice: “For a young extension, The French Laundry, which have both become a gold culinarian, they need to go on that journey and eliminate what standard in fine dining. He enjoyed getting to do all the “cool doesn’t make them happy, and instead of sticking with it, they stuff” in the restaurant. After reaching his goal of learning all need to resolve the problem by finding what makes them these butchery and charcuterie techniques, the “Per Se way,” he happy.” wanted to know what was next. In keeping in tradition with Per Se, Brady’s chef told him that natural progression for the butcher
6
LA PAPILLOTE
CENTER SPREAD
Center Dining With a Legend
BY: Kristin McGinn, BPS Culinary Science
Ever wonder what it would be like to
eat lunch with one of your heroes? Well, on Wednesday, March 12th, I found out. I was nominated and chosen along with fourteen other highly commendable students to eat lunch with none other than the world-famous Chef Ferran Adrià, head chef of elBulli restaurant in Spain and an overall father of the deconstruction movement. Being a student in the new Culinary Science Bachelor’s degree program, I not only look up to Chef Adrià but recognize all the hard work he has put in to make what I do and learn on a daily basis possible. Needless to say, I was thrilled to find out that I had been picked and knew this would be the chance of a lifetime. The fifteen of us met outside of the Bocuse restaurant on campus and looked at each other nervously. as we excitedly waited to see our idol. He walked into the dining room and immediately set up for a photo shoot, a routine he seems used to before eating meals. As I watched him pose frame for frame, I was already impressed. Everything about him exuded intelligence, from his stature, to the way he dressed ,and especially in the way he interacted with those around him. He was serious and driven to finish the task ahead, even though it was just a photo shoot. After our turn taking pictures with Ferran, we were all invited to take our respective seats. We all sat around a long table that was separate from the rest of the dining room. Each place setting was clearly marked with the name of the guest being honored at the luncheon. Almost every seat at the table had a clear view of Chef Adrià, who was seated in the middle of the table. Personally, I was seated across the table and a few seats down from Ferran. This was perfect because I was on the side of the table which Ferran’s translator, Sofia Perez, sat facing, so it was easy to hear her in the noisy dining room. I sat patiently through the general introductions for the
chance to hear what Ferran Adrià had to say. But when it was his time to speak, something unexpected happened. There was a lag in the conversation and the room fell silent. I looked up to find Chef Adrià deep in thought, plotting out every word he was about to say. He again impressed me with just how wise he was, and I hadn’t even heard the man speak yet! When he did finally speak, world famous Chef Ferran Adrià did not disappoint. He opened the luncheon with an in depth explanation of his philosophy. To my surprise, however, this was not just a philosophy on food but also his philosophy on life and learning. and I was in awe listening to him. I knew that Ferran Adrià must be an intelligent man, but I never realized just how much of an intellectual he is. He studies all different topics and finds ways to apply what he can to the world of food. He discussed science, mathematics, engineering, and many other fields of study as past inspirations for his work. Most importantly, however, Chef Adria made a connection between the food industry and history. He is a firm Photo Courtesy of Kristin believer that everything McGinn; Top: 90-Day Aged Striploin Lower Right: Scallop Tartare must be documented in order to make progress in the future. If we do not, what is to stop us from going in circles? We all began to ponder the many things that Chef Adrià had just told us when he quickly turned the tables on us. “What else, what is it you want to know?” he asked. “You”, he said while pointing to the student directly across
C I A’s Fashion Timeline
BY: Diane Anna Lam, AOS Culinary
I
t is a constant challenge for many of us to retain an individual style here at the CIA when it comes to those ever so pristine chef whites. Naturally, there is a spectrum of individuality that can be seen through the rigidity in our thorough uniform policies. With this in mind, we have altered the way we approach our hairstyles, facial hair, shoes, knife bags, and even inked body art. This is the “Fashion Timeline” of the CIA. Idolizing chefs is expected while in culinary school. Sometimes studying the success of renowned chefs offers a glimpse of hope after long days that are filled with constant pan scrubbing and à la minute cookery. It is one thing to idolize them, but it is entirely different to see them as a model of style. Recently, I came across a classmate labeling his hairstyle “The Mario Batali.” It got me thinking…as an icon, and in this case a fashion icon, “The Mario Batali” was a hairstyle that I was able to visualize and confirm that “yes, your hairstyle really is like Mario Batali’s.” Apparently, my friend is not the only one with this school of thought. From the ever-popular, carelessly, frazzled, Grant Achatz hairstyle to the wavy Giada de Laurentiis-esque beauties, our little culinary world is filled with Photo Coutesy of Diane Lam; AOS student Jesseriah Gass shows familiar looking manes. off his “Mario Batali.” Thus, I present to you The Chef Look-alike.
from him, “What is your question for me?” Though we all looked shocked at the abruptness of Chef Adrià opening up the floor, we were all ready with questions and took turns to ask them. With each question, Ferran’s answers became more and more enthusiastic. It was not until a question from another student that I understood just why this was. “After all that you’ve been through and all the lessons you have learned, what now do you draw inspiration from?” Instead of a longwinded answer about all of the grandeur that he experiences on a daily basis, Chef Ferran Adrià simply raised both hands and motioned towards all of us. “This.” he said, “You all are what inspires me.” I was so moved by this answer that I almost did not believe my ears. But, sure enough, Chef Adrià went on to explain that we were the future of the industry and the potential we hold is inspiring. Though all of the knowledge Ferran Adrià shared with us during the luncheon was great, hearing one of your heroes tell you that your generation has the potential to do great things was priceless. In what seemed like ten seconds, lunch was over, and we were all heading to Chef Adrià’s lecture for the afternoon. I took my seat amongst the other 799 students and watched as Ferran Adria climbed on stage, took out his phone and snapped pictures of the 800 people taking pictures of him. Although I had always been a fan, having lunch with Ferran Adrià gave me
My Teenage Love Affair...
BY: Anonymous I’m afraid I wont love anything as much as I love to eat Eating food just makes me feel so good inside, so content in each and every way Food is always available and will never let me down… well, unless I’m eating at k16 There are endless flavor combinations, so I will never get bored Eating literally fuels my life. I could not survive without it However, I know that in the event of food deprivation I would surely die of a broken heart before I ever suffered from starvation When I am up late at night, I do not wonder whether or not Billy Bob (not to be confused with the BBQ joint) likes me No, I fantasize about the three cheese pizza in my fridge Seriously, it is whispering my name right now When I finally succumb to temptation and fall asleep, I do not dream of awesome adventures, or sexy men. I dream of cupcakes, with sprinkles I do not crave a man’s touch a fraction of the time I crave a good and greasy cheeseburger with crispy wedge potatoes on the side I cannot go two hours without food This makes dating even more difficult than usual Feel the awkwardness of the silence on a first date because my mouth was too absorbed in what it was chewing to produce actual sentences I always think boys would be impressed at how much more I can eat compared to the average female … Im still single I do not fret though I have a more functional relationship with food than most girls do with their boyfriends Never worry food, you will always be my number one.
April 11, 2014
7
r Spread Dr. Temple Grandin Visits Campus C enterfold
C hef
BY: Francis Maling, AOS Culinary
The thing about
Chef Lee Ann Adams Chef Instructor of the Year 2014
How did you start your career in pastry?
I had finished my bachelors in Communication Disorders and Education of the Deaf (in which I needed a Master Degree to do anything) and I thought I had “senior-itis.” So, I decided to take some time off before my Masters, and I took the only job I could find, making salads at a country club. Three years later, my dad sat me down to have a talk about my future. I like cooking, but when we hired a baker, I fell in love with that craft. I remember watching him make apple pie like it was yesterday. That was all I wanted to do with my life. I still feel that way. Who were your mentors in your career? Chef George Higgins and Chef Richard Coppedge. They were my instructors here at the CIA. Chef Higgins made pastry something that was alive. It became something to love and nurture not just things to make. Chef Coppedge taught me to think like a chef. I still hear his voice in my head. Later, it was Chef Didier Rosada. He taught me how to make artisan breads. He opened my eyes to what very simple ingredients can do if handled correctly. I have heard you speak at graduation always sharing your fondness of your students. I think being around students is the greatest gift a person can have. If you love what you do, you love sharing what you do. I also like the energy of the students. Everything is exciting and new. The environment is very positive and they make my day positive. I am also very invested in my students. I insist that they excel, not just pass the class. That takes a lot of work from both of us, and in the end, it creates a bond that is very strong. When I speak of my students, it is from a place of pride and love. Any hobbies outside the pastry shop? I garden, oil paint, and have been active in greyhound rescue. On a side note, I hate baking at home! Any advice for our students? Realize that you will be a student for your entire life. Learn something each and every day. Also, don’t let the petty stuff interfere with what made you choose your career. There will be petty things to deal with at work every day of your life. Focus instead on the things that bring you joy.
conventional thinking is its susceptibility to change. Time, money, and power are often factors that are the impetus of revolution in conventional practices. When does morality come into play? When is it appropriate to implement alternative means to industry standards? Ideas and practices can be “out of date” and in need of a drastic overhaul. These are just a few of the things I have gathered upon my research on Dr. Temple Grandin. For three years, Dr. Temple Grandin, of Colorado State University, was sought out by Chef Mark Elia. Among many notable accomplishments, Grandin pioneered industry-changing standards on the designs for cattle rancher’s slaughterhouse facilities, and the overall better treatment of the animals in general. Her accolades are recognized globally. She has shattered conventional thinking and practices for a better, or rather more humane, approach in the livestock industry. For Chef Elia, it is of the utmost importance that the students here at The Culinary Institute of America understand and attain a well-rounded knowledge of their products. Elia’s patience and perseverance helped to bring Dr. Temple Grandin to Hyde Park. For three days, students were engaged in lectures by Grandin on various topics. I was eager to see her in person after watching her TED Talk, “The World Needs All Kinds of Minds,” where she touches on how different kinds of minds function effectively if harnessed and used according to one’s own capability. Growing up with autism, Grandin lacked the concentration to succeed in subjects like algebra. However, being a visual learner, she was able to imagine a world unlike anything one could ever dream, as evidenced in her strong interest in art. “You may be a stellar student in one area, but struggle terribly in another. Well, that’s okay!” says Chef Elia. He goes on to illustrate the notion that people need to find their strong areas and really develop and hone those aspects. When asked about his personal experience alongside Dr. Grandin during her three day visit to campus, he’s practically speechless. “I have been following Dr. Grandin for quite some time.” He considers her “an inspiration to never give up on your dreams.” Newer technologies have helped improve the overall quality in the meat and poultry industry, but how has Dr. Grandin’s ability to “think in pictures” revamped today’s industry standards? Chef Elia explains, “Proper handling has a direct result on the quality of the finished product. An animal that has been through stress, either short term or long term, will not handle as well as an animal that has been treated properly.“ This includes proper lighting in the holding pen, a practical diet for steady and healthy growth, and
really a humane approach to the treatment of the animals. “They should know how she has changed the world on the way large animals are handled prior to harvesting, as well as during the harvest,” Elia continues. A prime example of Grandin’s contribution can be found in one of many video clips circulating around the web. Not so long ago, prior to slaughter, cattle were merely sent to an area where they are individually stunned and
Photo Courtesy of: www.sayattheexplorer.com being hung by hooks on an assembly line. The bright lights, the tight spaces, and even the noise from a stunned animal can create stress and cause panic in the waiting animals. Grandin created a system of “fencing”, or simply a more organized formation for cattle to ascend to the slaughterhouse, including a type of “shading” overhead to decrease sunlight for the animals. This almost completely eliminates distractions and stress, thus having a more relaxed animal. If an animal is stressed, its muscles tighten causing a seemingly insignificant difference at first, however, the quality of the meat product will be ultimately compromised. This is an important factor that catapulted the industry into different sects of sustainability, free-range, humane treatment, and design for livestock pens. Chef Elia considers specialization the key that can separate the successes from the many failures in today’s business models. Hopefully some of the knowledge from Dr. Grandin can allow students here at The Culinary Institute of America to set practical standards as well in their not-too-distant future. “Seeing all the students here in their uniforms, it’s like the Harvard of cooking school!” Dr. Grandin mentions to Chef Elia during one of their dinners. He says that Dr. Grandin even proposed something to him that he never thought of: “During one of our dinners together she told me that ‘I was an eccentric sausage maker and should write a book for people who think in pictures.’ I never pictured myself writing a book. But who knows, if I can sit still long enough!” says Chef Elia. Stay tuned everyone -- I can see more from these two in the future.
LA PAPILLOTE
8
The Elephant in the Room
BY: Gareth Alonso, AOS Culinary
Being utterly surrounded by
food and food culture here at The Culinary Institute of America, I always try to retain every scrap of knowledge I can just walking through these halls. I often overhear the names of many restaurants that are located here in the Hudson Valley. I also take the recommendations of chef’s in high regard. I have heard the name “Elephant” mentioned on more than one occasion. I knew that I had to go. The last mention of this restaurant was in Cuisines of Mediterranean. It was in regards to the topic of finding good tapas close by. Even more reason for the trek. Elephant is located near the end of Wall Street in the once-happening but still relevant city of Kingston. Walking in we were welcomed with a warmly lit dining room. Looking around it looked like an after theater type of crowd enjoying a few drinks and a few small plates. It had a sort of dive bar for foodies feel to it and the staff and customers were both very friendly. When ordering food at Elephant there are many options. There is a chalkboard menu that has selections of charcuterie and cheeses. There is a typical menu that has options under the headings of “para picar,” “tostas,” and “raciones.” In addition to this, there is also a daily special menu handed out upon being seated. With all these possibilities we decided we would order some drinks and peruse the menus a bit longer to really hammer out the details. We sipped on a refreshing sangria, as well as a traditional cider that one might find in Spain. It was much different than a cider that one would enjoy here in the states. It had a scent similar to olive water but the taste was still fruity and it went down smoothly. After going over the menus a bit longer it had been decided. The list of tapas was included chorizo, chocolate, jamon, and manchego from the tostas menu; tacos al pastor from the raciones section; grilled asparagus with lamb bacon, anchovy bocata, and blood sausage with pureed potatoes from the daily special menu and lomo iberico and the pate de casa from the charcuterie menu. Phew! There were three of us dining that night, a perfect number for the ordering and sharing of all these tapas. While we sat there and waited for our plates to
begin arriving, it almost felt as if we were in the theater waiting for the show to begin and the curtain to rise. Once they started coming and being placed at the table, it was just as hard to figure out where to start as it was to decide on our order. All the small plates that we dined on and shared that night were absolutely fantastic and packed with flavor. The chocolate and chorizo and the the melt-in-your-mouth pork belly tacos with the sweet pineapple bits and hot jalapeno medallion were both stars at the table. While initially I couldn’t comprehend how the chocolate and chorizo would
Photo Courtesy of Gareth Alonso
taste together, we were all surprised at how well they worked in unison. The chocolate lent an unexpected subtle smokiness, and the pair worked as beautifully as Spencer Tracy and Katherine Hepburn. The tacos, with the combination of the salty pork, the sweet pineapple, and the spice of the jalapeno melded brilliantly and both dishes stimulated all the senses. The jamon and manchego was an authentic example of Spanish cuisine. The slice of meat and the accompanying cheese both hailed from Spain. The plate was served on a crusty baguette with a sweet quince jelly nestled beneath the meat and cheese. It was a perfect marriage of salty and sweet with all key players being equally represented. Anchovies on crusty bread sounds simple, but the bocata was packed with flavor. The intense saltiness and toasty sesame seeds lent a peanutbuttery flavor to the dish and was a fantastic change of pace from the sweeter quince jelly and chocolate found on the other platters. Unfortunately, the lomo iberico sadly played second fiddle to the orchestra laid in front of us. It was a very nicely seasoned bit of charcuterie, but seemed uninspired compared to the pate de casa that also came from the charcuterie menu. The country style pate, was packed with
flavor. The accompanying raisin and port jam took it to a whole other level. While the blood sausage dish and the asparagus were both terrific in their own right, they were merely playing extras to the magnificent ensemble cast of flavor combinations and one-two punches from the other small plates. The creaminess of the yolk of the fried egg that was lovingly placed on top of the asparagus just made the truffled cream sauce that much better. The blood sausage with pureed potatoes was exactly that. The seasoning of the potatoes was mellow enough to showcase the flavor of the blood sausage. The dish was very good and would have stood out anywhere else, but it could not rival the in-your-face, bold flavors found in the other small plates. One of the perks of dining with an extra person is the extra dessert that must be ordered. While barely having any room left in our stomachs, we found just enough room to order a Galician-style almond tart, some dulce de leche ice cream, and a small slice of cheese from the chalkboard menu. The ice cream was the star of the dessert offerings. The dish was filled with that sweet caramel flavor that I remembered from my childhood. The tart had a very subtle almond flavor, and the cheese was a very pungent variety with an even more overpowering rind. Luckily the port ordered to accompany the cheese mellowed and complimented the strong flavor. After our massive feast, I began thinking more about how Elephant fits in to the majority of eateries I have been to. Elephant could definitely be a place to go when famished and will easily satiate the largest of appetites. However, that would be missing the point. Elephant fits more into the midafternoon snack or after dinner drinks and nosh for those looking for a bit more. All the plates are small, no matter what part of the menu you order from. Tapas means small plates. The prices of the small plates range from three to four dollars for a side of olives or Marcona almonds, to between eight and thirteen dollars for the more elaborate and composed tapas. Elephant does a fantastic job of showcasing all the regions of Spain. From the manchego found in Mancha, the Euskadi influences found smattered throughout the menu, and the eastern Spanish regions (where there is a French influence to the cooking), it is all here. This is a restaurant that could easily thrive in a more cosmopolitan setting such as Manhattan, but luckily we are fortunate enough to have such a sophisticated eatery so close to campus. It is a perfect stopping point to recharge and relieve those hunger pangs that tend to arise on day trips out, or to just have a relaxing cocktail and some small plates at the end of a stress-filled week.
April 11. 2014
FOOD & BEVERAGE
Sweet Beans!
BY: Yisi “Crystal” Tan, AOS Culinary
In Western cooking, beans have a specific role of
being a side of savoury dishes. In Japanese cuisine, however, beans are used to create more diverse products. The only sweet beans I have seen in the western world is jelly beans. The bean used to make the most products is the soy bean, used for tofu, miso, soy sauce, milk, flour and oil, followed by the lesserknown azuki bean (Vigna angularis), or red bean in Chinese, with a nutty sweet flavor commonly used in north east Asian desserts. During my internship at Kikuzato Shogetsu, a traditional Japanese pastry shop in Japan, I have seen these beans used in many different ways. The traditional way of cooking azuki beans for sweets is to boil them with sugar into a sweet bean paste called “anko.” After this the paste can be mashed into “tsubuan,” or pureed and pressed through a sieve or cloth bag to create a smoother textured paste call “koshian.” The textures are like smooth or chunky peanut butter. One of my personal favourite Japanese pastries is yokan. Yokan is one of the many vegan-friendly traditional Japanese confections that also uses azuki beans. Yokan is a sweet jellied azuki paste made from red bean paste, sugar and agar agar. It is a popular confection in the summer due to its cooling feel and jelly texture. Like most Asian cultures, the color red is associated with celebratory occasions, auspicious and to ward off evil influence. Azuki bean’s signature red color is also utilized in one of Japan’s festive dishes, “sekihan.” Sekihan is rice cooked in the same pan
as azuki beans, so the white rice is dyed a pink from the natural colors of the water. Sekihan is a modern version of an old ceremonial red colored rice that is very tannic. Sekihan’s red color is produced by using azuki’s natural colors and it is usually served with salt and sesame. Sekihan is usually served during celebrations, such as around New Year’s holiday, birthdays, weddings, and shichigosan (seven five three - a celebration for children reaching those ages). There is even an idiom “Sekihan ni shiyou yo” which translates to “let’s have sekihan,” which is similar in meaning to the phrase “time to party!” In 2007, Starbucks launched an Azuki Frappuccino, KitKat has created azuki chocolate bars, and Pepsi Japan even made an azuki-flavored soda. The azuki beans are a good source of magnesium, potassium, iron, zinc, copper, maganese and vitamin B. It is a natural diuretic and when combined with grains, becomes a high quality protein. However, when I asked about the importance of the azuki beans in Japanese desserts, Master Hattori told me, in a matter-of-fact way, that “it does not interfere with the flavor of matcha, so we use it in everything.” Either way, the many batches of anko we made each morning would always be finished by the end of the day. From the customers streaming into the shop, ranging from young school children to elderly grandparents, I can tell the love for sweet bean paste will pass through from generation to generation.
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Book : Mastering Review
the Art of Soviet Cooking
BY: John Schlichting, AOS Culinary
Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking by Anya von Bremzen TX649 V66 2013
R
ussia is in the headlines lately, and with news of Russian troops and tanks in the Crimean region of Ukraine, it becomes easy to see Russia as a villain. Russia is always the antagonist in newspaper articles and is often publicly condemned. This makes it harder to view Russia as a unique, fascinating culture to learn about, a place with it’s own varied, delicious cuisine. After all, Russia gave us the way we serve food today, as well as both caviar and vodka. While we don’t study their cuisine the way we do Asian or Meditterenean cuisine, we should know how to cook a little bit of Russian cuisine. So while there is no book recommendation from a chef this week, instead I found a book that I just couldn’t put down. A book that has stuck in my head, and that finds a way to explain the mix of nostalgia and actual memory that we experience when eating. “Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking” is Anya Von Bremzen’s memoir of growing up in the USSR and trying to come to terms with the authenticity of her own food memories as she wonders if they were just propaganda from the Soviet Government. Anya Von Bremzen, winner of three James Beard Awards and a contributor to every food magazine you care about, has written a wonderful musing on her past and family through the food they ate. Each decade of the Soviet Union, from 1910 to the 21st century, is divided into dishes and memories, experiences through World War II , the German invasion of Russia, and the starvation and black market economy to the heights of the Cold War into the 21st century and Putin’s democracy. The author creates images with food that make you feel familiar with it, which then makes you want to make it, and then eat it immediately, trying to capture the essence of the tastes and flavors on a page. “Mastering the Art of Soviet Cooking” is a funny, heartfelt, immigrant story mixed with food history and personal memories. It tracks a fantastically interesting family and offers a story filled with spies and cultural change with food as a main character. Food is the connection to the past that we can recreate when we want. It’s a way to hold onto the past even after we’ve lost everything else. Like Proust’s Madeline, it will transport us, but with Von Bremzen’s poisoned Madeline, we have to wonder if we are being transported to the right place.
“Life”
BY: Arianna Goarin, AOS Culinary
It’s the four letter word I spell F-O-O-D. It is my soul at its essence. From the marinara in my veins to the flour worn as my second skin. I am not a victim to punishment, no this was nothing but my decision. This was the life I chose, and it revolves around what you eat. From the garnish to the proteins, vegetables, sauces, and starches, to even the plate choice itself. That is my life. I put on my hardhat each day and construct, design, create the bliss that you enjoy, the oddities that may intrigue you, and even the food you throw out, as if I were on “Hell’s Kitchen,” Chef swearing in my ears that my food isn’t good enough. Food is my passion to turn necessity into reality and beauty. So your pleas for me to stop, fall on deaf ears, as the only way I’ll hear is when I’m already in the ground.
LA PAPILLOTE
10
Graduation Speaker: Mario Carbone ‘00 Mario Carbone is an owner and partner of the New
York City-based Major Food Group, whose restaurants include Torrisi Italian Specialties, Parm, Parm Yankee Stadium, Carbone, and ZZ’s Clam Bar. Born and raised in Queens, NY, Mario was cooking fried calamari and red sauce in neighborhood restaurants when he was 15 years old. After two years of working weekends and summers in local eateries, he enrolled at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. After graduation, he joined the opening team, led by Mark Ladner, at Mario Batali’s Lupa Osteria Romana in Greenwich Village. A year later, Chef Carbone
traveled to Italy to work at La Dogana, a small familyrun restaurant on the western coast of Tuscany. After returning to the U.S., he went to work for two masters with very different approaches. The first was Daniel Boulud, teaching precise, classic French cuisine at the highest level, followed by Wylie Dufresne, the man leading the progressive culinary charge in America. Then the call came from Chef Batali to once again team up with Mark Ladner on a new project, Del Posto, this time as executive sous chef. After two and a half years there, Chef Carbone left to pursue his dream of being an executive chef, and in 2009, with partner Rich Torrisi, he opened Torrisi Italian Specialties. The establishment began as a deli serving classic ItalianAmerican sandwiches and evolved into a New York Times two-star restaurant that earned a James Beard Award nomination for Best New Restaurant. In 2010, the pair teamed up with Jeff Zalaznick, a fellow restaurant visionary, to form Major Food Group (MFG). Together, they created Parm, with locations on Mulberry Street and at Yankee Stadium. In 2012, Parm received two stars from The New York Times, becoming the only sandwich-focused restaurant to currently have this honor. Soon after opening Parm, they closed and
renovated Torrisi Italian Specialties, reopening it as a boutique tasting room with a seven-course tasting menu and a 20-course chef’s tasting menu. In 2011, Torrisi’s was ranked the #1 Italian restaurant in New York by New York magazine. The following year, Chef Carbone was among Food & Wine magazine’s Best New Chefs in America. In 2013, MFG set its sights on another ambitious venture: resurrecting Italian-American fine dining. The result was Carbone, which opened that March and has received much critical and industry acclaim, including a nomination from the James Beard Foundation for 2014 Best New Restaurant. In June 2013, MFG opened ZZ’s Clam Bar on the same Greenwich Village block as Carbone. That same year, ZZ’s received three stars from GQ and Bloomberg News. In addition to its current ventures, Major Food Group is also opening a new restaurant under the High Line in Manhattan, in collaboration with Friends of the High Line and the City of New York. MFG is also working on a new hotel/restaurant project at the Ludlow Hotel in New York’s Lower East Side.
AOS Graduating Class of March 21, 2014 Culinary Arts Group #1
Front: Sam Metcalf Andrew Dao Alex Enright Cheyenne Langis Danielle Szarek Lianara Alvarado Juliana Dazdja Mila Raffai Yae Won Jung Gabriella Rosa
Back: Alex Rozycki Michael Beeh Eric Slade Sean May Mathew Shellly Zacahry Guida Giovanni Meyer Ryan Kademian Edouard Massih Beth Laws
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front: Chase Maugeri Darren Accurso Tony Dao Katie Fenton Jasmine Moore Kaitlyn Geiger Alegra Goncalvez Chris Condon Nick Wood David James Pugliese
Back: Peter Lopez Eric Casey Chase Nelson Max Lancaster Alec Vaughn Doug Lanham Chad Norman Marko Tomic Mike McDonahugh Seung Joon Choi Courtney Ucker
Culinary Arts Group #3 Front: Allison Meaney Gabrielle Roma Elizabeth Cherrycola Giovanni Abbate Brenda Gonzalez Ramirez Valeria Zamora Monica Rivera Amanda Repke Erika Tolentino
Baking and Pastry Front: Melissa Quinn Julie Linovitz Haylee Kulig Stacy Han Hannah Lurier Marcella Bruno Clara Leuze Jill Dougherty Christina Gray
Back: Emilie Wake Sarah Neville Zack Brinker Emily Kennedy Nicolette Cesare Megan Lodes Monica Hannoush Cheyenne Hoffman Mary Leggio Taylor Wong
Back: Xochiquetzal Salazar Eric Hamway Patrick Schepis Nicky Miscia Patrick Chukas Craig Paige Mike Fellini Brendon Hudson Steven Lee Alex Gruman Paul Von Weilding Willy Sams
April 11, 2014
POT LUCK
K-9 Umami Presentation
11
BY: Francis Maling, AOS Culinary
It seems to be just the luck of the
draw that my Cuisines of Asia class received an intimate demo from the Umami Information Center last Friday. Maybe it was not luck after all. Maybe because Chef Cheng is Chef Cheng, she’s got the hookup. For days, the “Umami” lecture was the buzz of campus activity (as well as a visit from a certain Spanish chef from Euskadi.) Unfortunately, my PM class could not attend the Spanish chef’s particular lecture because of class production. But to our surprise, Chef Cheng was notified that Chef Murata and the Kikunoi crew, as well as Chef Connaughton requested to come and demo in our K-10 kitchen. Camera crews were present during the afternoonlong demo and lecture, so our class made sure that the kitchen was in pristine condition, as we couldn’t be less than perfect in the presence of Chef Murata. While he is one of the most amazingly acclaimed chefs in Japanese Kaiseki-style cuisine, he seems to be shrouded in mystery as we walked around the class room a few days earlier. He came in with some of his staff, including Dr. Ninomiya, otherwise well-known as the “Umami Mama,” a coined nickname appropriate for her research and study on the information on the fifth primary taste, umami. They visited our class during the last thirty minutes before opening for service. In other words, it was not the best first impression to give a chef of Murata-San’s caliber. However, I do not wish to throw my classmates under the bus. As a team, we discussed the importance of making sure that the kitchen was cleaned to perfection when the umami team arrived for the demo and lecture. We were all quite excited for it, and felt honored, really. I felt special at some point, bragging to my sister AM classmates that although
some of them were able to attend the Ferran Adria lecture, a superstar Japanese chef will personally demo in our own kitchen. It was a special moment that perhaps many would take for granted. But our class, with utmost humility and reverence, welcomed the team, listened intently and followed every idea they shared, rapt. The concept of umami, discovered by curious Japanese scientists, is simple and painstakingly complicated at the same time. Foods that contain certain levels of glutamate, inosinate, and guanyte can combine to form a profound umami flavor. Though the three components themselves have significant percentages of umami among them, combine them contributes to the synergy of emergence of a pure, bold, yet balanced flavor. Dashi, a Japanese-stock base that is made from bonito flakes, kombu and cold water, had rich flavors that eluded the scientists for closer examination. Kombu, dried seaweed contained 100g (3.5oz) of glutamate while the dried katsuoboishi or bonito flakes had around the same grams of inosinate. The synergy of both ingredients produced the light but bold flavor of dashi, a component in Japanese cuisine that makes it unique in the culinary world. Chef Murata and Chef Connaughton are taking the very fundamentals of creating umami flavors into a new realm. During the demonstration, Murata explains the process of making dashi and his idea of making new style dashi. New style dashi takes inspiration from incorporating dried tomatoes and dried morels to produce a highly concentrated umami flavor. According to Murata and Dr. Ninomiya, there are health concerns that are apparent worldwide. One of their goals is to obtain rich flavors without increasing sodium or fat calorie intake. New style dashi can give satiety to consumers are at risks of health. While Murata’s cuisine focuses on smaller portions (kaiseki style cuisine is relatively more courses but with smaller portions) his new style dashi can help lower calorie intake, but still have great flavors. Connaughton, who’s influenced by Japanese
“Bound”
BY:Travis Bugge, AOS Culinary
It is hard to be in love with a place As the love is not reciprocated By an island of concrete. New York City is no exception. But in this city I have found myself Homeward bound, weary and stalwart Continuing course to what Would be the Days grave A stop in a wine store bears more fruit Than humble vines could gift: A realization the journey homeward is an adventure within itself Maintaining course, blueberries catch my eye at a price naught to neglect Without abandoning the street that would eventually bring me home I pass Grand Station to greet what would never been met: my throne Atop the Rock in The Park Drinking vino, throwing bad berries to ducks All without changing direction
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cooking techniques, gave a westernized dashi during his demonstration. A notable pairing is the orrechiatte pasta, with a jam-like tomato sauce and dashi. Connaughton notes the importance of creating these delicate flavors by using quality ingredients and utilizing it in its entirety, much like the tomato. His lecture mentioned umami-rich ingredients found in major cuisines around the world. He reassures us that, while umami can be credited to the Japanese scientists, it has been around for years. Dr. Ninomiya even mentions that umami is familiar to all humans, because we are introduced to umami flavors during infancy, when we are nursed by our mother during breastfeeding. The tasting of each dashi-infused dish was amazing. I loved the texture of the root vegetables from the Kikunoi staff, the kabocha squash was so good. Another favorite of mine was the lightly-seared sardines from Connaughton’s offerings. Both chefs use new style dashi differently and definitely expanded my horizons for ideas for future creations. While it was a small bento box tasting, they flavors were huge. Did luck bring us to this point as students in Chef Cheng’s class? I am still uncertain. What I do know is that it is one of the fleeting moments that made the demo day so memorable. Connaughton mentions a famous Japanese saying of cherishing these moments as they are happening, because there can no longer be another of the same moment. I’m thankful to have met Chef Murata and caught a glimpse on his philosophy that makes his Kikunoi restaurant one of the best restaurants in the world. These fleeting moments may be gone, but they’ll be etched in memory forever.
Dorm Room Cooking
BY: Stephanie Kirkland, BPS Culinary
T
here’s a tinge of warmth in the air, or maybe that’s just because I’m back from spring break. Taking a week off school was both the best and worst thing I could have decided to do. Best, because I basically took a week off from life; worst, because now I’m so used to hanging out and not being on a daily schedule like I am during most of the week. I’m not sure when I’ll be able to do that again in the near future so I had to take full and complete advantage of it. I’m in no rush to do anything, and wasn’t even affected traveling through NYC on the way back to school. During my little holiday, I had the opportunity to cook for a group of twenty rowdy college kids. You can only imagine what that was like. I know my group of friends and I always remark how we don’t really go to a regular college, and being on spring break, something which I consider to be the epitome of a college experience. I won’t be able to look at freezer foods the same way again. I was at a loss as to what I was going to concoct. Other people made pasta on too many occasions, and “Taco & Tequila Tuesday” was already taken. I decided on BBQ’d chicken and ribs with a couple of sides. But of course, I cannot just buy a couple of bottles of Sweet Baby Ray’s and call it a day, no matter how delicious it is. Making my own came with inquiries as to what recipe I used and how I went about coating the proteins with just the right amount of sauce for there to be enough left over to pass around for dipping. But I didn’t use a recipe, which brought about even more shock and awe. The raves that came from the crowded dining room table over a loaded baked potato salad and the easiest sautéed corn of your life were deafening. (Adapted) BBQ Sauce Recipe 3/4- 1 Cup Dark Brown Sugar 1 Bottle of Ketchup, or so 1 Favorite bottle of premade, Local BBQ Sauce 2 Tablespoons Worcestershire Sauce Salt and Pepper, as necessary 1 Tablespoon Paprika 1 Can Chiles in adobo, minced 4 large cloves garlic, minced Put all ingredients into a sauce pan and let it bubble away on medium heat until thick and a quarter reduced. Apply thoroughly and liberally.
All In Good Taste
A Commentary on Life at the CIA as a Non-Traditional Student BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary
I am finishing up my last kitchen
class here at The Culinary Institute of America, Cuisines of Asia, and as I near the end of my journey here, I have begun to think about saying goodbye to the school, the staff, faculty, and admins here, and also to my classmates. My classmates. Those who you share this journey with shape your experience; my starting class is incredibly dissimilar to the class I entered up on returning from externship one block early. I loved my classmates in my first class – James Bates, a born leader, someone who always required just a little extra from himself, who held himself to a higher standard. Arianna Goarin, my sweet, shy, intellectual, thoughtful friend, with whom I bonded over our shared focus on getting good grades and our mutual anxiety over the process of doing so. Patrick Erskine, one of the kindest, funniest, silliest, nicest guys I have ever met (“Remember, guys, there’s no ‘I’ in ‘cooking’!”). Nichole Bryant, such a beautiful girl, and sweet and sassy and very confident about who she is. Brian James, my Fundies partner, one of the best men I have ever come across in my life. I miss these people daily, and I get to see some of them from time-to-time, pass them in the hallways, or have class somewhere near them. But my new class… my new class is different. We had a lot more men in the class, and for the most part, everyone was over age 21. So, that meant a whole different dynamic in the class, and oddly enough, there has been more drama than when I had an abundance of females in the class. What it really meant, though, is that a lot of us have work experience. We’re all adults, so it feels like peer-to-peer interaction in my new class rather than feeling like I’m parenting or mentoring someone. We’re all old enough to drink, which means we can go to the bar to unwind after class on Friday (and often do!). It means that the men in my class are actually men, not boys, and as such, they are so competent, capable, and accomplished. It means there’s a lot more swearing, a lot more sexual comments and touching each other (this is male-to-male contact, they’re harassing each other, not the women in the group!), and way more joking around. The joking around. My class is FUNNY. My class is SO FUNNY! Some of these guys make me laugh as hard as my best friend from childhood does. I have come to feel an incredible amount of affection for the people in my class, and I had a moment in Cuisines of the Mediterranean (where I met my new 71-year old boyfriend, Chef Maraldo!) and a moment in Cuisines of the Americas where I literally had tears in my eyes thinking that this experience was going to end soon, and I was going to have to say goodbye to these classmates of whom I have become so utterly fond. As such, I wanted to pay homage to my classmates by telling you a little bit about each one, and what I love so much about each one of them, and what I’m going to miss. Dan Castle – Dan. This guy is something else. He’s our group leader, and he’s gruff and he barks at us, but don’t let the hard exterior fool you: I believe wholeheartedly that Dan would help ANYONE out, he’s just a guy who always does the right thing. He’s on top of his game every day, which is not always an easy task. He’s an extremely hard worker, almost tireless, and does thankless jobs, jobs that no one else wants to do, and jobs that should be done by other people in our class, without complaining or needing praise for it. A good, good dude, and one of the people I’m going to miss the most. Christian Canevari – One of the most earnest, sweetest fellas I’ve ever met. Christian and I worked together in Meds, and he is chivalrous – he completely took care of me and he kind of made me feel like I was his (much older!) girlfriend in the way he made sure I was set up for success in that class. Good to the bone, and is going to be a great husband and father someday. Evan Chupurdy – Evan and I are unlikely friends, he’s super laid back and I can be hard driving and focused. But we became friends early on, because he and I are both loners who are really
comfortable being loners. Then there’s the fact that Evan never says a mean word about anyone, he’s genuinely one of the nicest guys I’ve ever met. Honestly, I would do anything for Evan. He’s my boy! Tomas Contreras – First things first: Tom is good looking! Another extremely nice guy, but one who flies under the radar. You have to make an effort to get to know Tom. When you do, you realize he has a wicked sense of humor and says things like, “Dude, you put ketchup on bacon? That’s like slapping God in the face, man.” Michael Crane – One of my all-time favorite personalities that I have met at culinary school. He’s insanely talented and insanely funny – but I often get the feeling that he’s just one bad decision away from going completely off the rails. If this guy can direct his energy in a productive way and stay disciplined, he will rule the culinary world. He’s smart as a whip, full of energy even when he’s hungover, and so likable that I have seen chefs laugh at him while yelling at him. He’s absolutely out of his mind, in the best way possible. Love this guy. Jesse DeLorenzo – Jesse, Jesse, Jesse. *smh* Jesse is not at all what you would expect him to be. I anticipated a little punk Jersey boy, and instead he’s this sweet, funny, somewhat needy, touchy-feely guy with the worst case of ADHD I have ever seen. Jesse is legendary for absentmindedly grabbing your side towels and depositing them completely somewhere else in the kitchen before he walks out of the room to take a 20 minute stroll through campus. During service. He has given me full-body contact hugs while I’m in the middle of fabricating meat and have a knife in my hand and blood up to my elbows. He’ll startle you by coming up beside you and growling or meowing in your ear, and if you get him fired up about something, he’ll call you “dawg” about seven times in a row. He’s adorable. Part of me wishes that I had given birth to him, he’s such an exquisite character that I would love to claim credit for producing a person this kind and this amusing. Oh, yeah, and he’s begged me incessantly for weeks to put him in the paper. Here ya are, Jessie! I hope you like my tribute to you! Kody Farrell – It’s difficult to know what to say about Kody, only because there isn’t praise high enough, and I sense that I could easily embarrass him. He is dignified and proud, and the epitome of what a man should be. His sense of duty and understanding of right and wrong is that of a man twice, maybe three times his age. He’s an old, wise, kind soul. However, he’s got low bullsh*t tolerance, as well, which is another reason why I like him. He’ll tell you exactly what he thinks. He’s kind, but he’s no pushover. He reminds me of my dad, my brother, and my closest male friend from home, all rolled into one. He’s one of the hardest workers I’ve ever met, he does the right thing ALL the time, and when Kody is around, whatever needs to happen in the kitchen that day happens the way it should, because Kody sees to it that it does. The truth is, Kody is probably my soulmate – just 20 years too late. I do wish that he would incorporate a sense of adventure in his decisions about his future, only because I fully believe that Kody would succeed at anything he does. The world needs more Kodys, and I don’t want him to go back home after he graduates. It would be cool to see him go do something really interesting and have an impact not only on the culinary world, but also on the upcoming generation of chefs. He’s a great role model. I’ll just say it: He’s my favorite person in the class. Maybe even at school in general! Cassandra Gaete – About 6’ 1”, it’s an understatement to say that this girl has presence. She is a type A, loud and in charge, proactive, and one would never describe her as being “timid.” She talks non-stop, but is a low-talker, and I heard about 30% of what she said when I worked with her. She’s another one who’s not afraid to do the crappy jobs, and just gets her hands in there and gets it done. That’s when she decides to come to class, though. She misses at least one class every block, but we put up with it because she’s entertaining, fun, and a hard worker when she does attend. Work on this one issue, Cassandra, and you will be a force to be reckoned with. Gina Inguagito – I was so happy to see Gina’s face when I entered baking and pastry class after externship. Also a non-traditional student, Gina comes from a similar background as me, as in, tons of outside work experience. As a
genuine adult, Gina never misses a class, and is always on time and prepared. You can count on her. She’s a woman of principles, and if you do something that she doesn’t believe is right, she will let you know. She’s assertive and focused. Don’t mess with this girl. Barry Johnson – Barry is hysterical. He’s kind of quiet, but you get the feeling that Barry enjoys being an enigma. Every now and then, you’ll catch him silently singing to whatever song is in his head, trying to control his desire to break out and dance. I think those are my favorite Barry moments, when he’s oblivious to the fact that he’s in public, and just lets his soul shine through and does something silly. Hasung Lee – Hasung always has a ready smile for me. Hasung actually completed culinary school in Korea before coming here. At age 26, he’s one of the older students in the class and is one of the caretakers of the class. We shared rides to school when we first got back from externship, and even though we had multiple conversations, I don’t feel that I know Hasung well at all. He’s so polite to me, but I kind of get the feeling that in private, he’s probably a totally cool dude to hang out with. Minjwi Lee -- Cutest thing EVER!! This girl is so cute and so kind and so funny, I feel honored to know her. I was her partner in America’s, and I had a low moment and snapped at her. It was one of those things that you know in your heart that you shouldn’t have done it as it’s coming out of your mouth. She was incredibly gracious in forgiving me and we have become better and better friends since. This girl always has your back – if you need something, she comes out of no where with it. She and Young also were rock stars in our service class. I kind of tripped through that class and I noticed she and Young waiting on my tables that I was too discombobulated to get to. She’s shorter than me – and I’m pretty short – and has the friendliest face. I just love her to pieces. Sang Hyun Lee – High-energy and kind, Sang is part of the team that came up with the apple, celery, and basil ice cream in our baking and pastry class. I thought it was genius. Our chef thought it was disgusting. I think Sang has innovative, unique ideas, and I think he has the talent to execute them. Such a nice guy. Young Lee – Young is so quiet!! It took her almost two-and-ahalf months to really talk to me, but since she’s started to talk to me more, what I have noticed is that what she doesn’t say in words, she says in actions. She and Minjwi are these two invisible forces in the kitchen, and the minute you’re in the weeds, you’ll turn around and they will be silently working on your pasta dough beside you ensuring that you get done. She’s THAT stealthy, and that good. She has hinted to me that she is an older student, but in the spirit of the quiet dignity that she does everything with, she won’t tell me how old she is, and I love that! Tyler Newell – Tyler is always on his game in the kitchen, but the poor guy has a lightning rod on his head and he always gets yelled at for non-reasons. This guy can put two sips of alcohol in his body and he becomes HYSTERICAL. His dry sense of humor gets even dryer and more sarcastic, and he’s a complete hoot to hang out with. The other thing I love about Tyler is that he is very classic in his style and demeanor – he would not be out of place on the Harvard campus. But his circle of friends is extremely diverse and all very different from him. I think that’s a testimony to Tyler’s acceptance of different types of people, and is certainly going to serve him well in this field. Israel Weiss – This guy. Oh, my gosh. Israel has had a privileged upbringing, and initially upon meeting him, he frankly seems like an ass. Then you get to know him. Israel is very generous, he’s kind and funny, he’s self-effacing, and he’s cultured, well-bred, and genteel. He also uses the tiniest utensils in the kitchen that I have ever seen. He has a set of six-inch spatulas in a rainbow of colors that he uses, this big, 6’ 3” guy hulking over the stove and using a tiny red spatula to stir and mix and flip food. It’s just silliness. We lost Israel this block because he got ill, and it makes me sad, I lost my buddy. I give him tips on women. It’s hysterical and gratifying for me, because he really treats women well. I want to see him succeed in whatever he does, because he’s a good enough cook to make it wherever he goes. I will miss my class so much when we graduate. I know some of these people are lifelong friends, and I am savoring the next four months.