2014 07 03 final

Volume 33, No.46

July 03 2014

First Culinary Science Grads Enter Food World

BY: Jeff Levine, Communications Manager, Staff Contributer

Ushering in a new era of advanced techniques and innovation for chefs, the first group of culinary science majors at the CIA graduated in May. “The culinary science major offers a unique perspective into the world of food,” says Kristin McGinn ’14, who just earned her bachelor’s degree and accepted an internship with McCormick spices. “The program uses a dual teaching style with both a scientist and chef in each class. Because of this, we learned the in-depth science behind food while getting lessons on how to create and balance flavors at the same time.”

While a connection between cooking and STEM (science, technology, engineering, and math) education may not seem obvious at first glance, it is a natural fit, according to Professor Jonathan Zearfoss. “Culinary science is truly interdisciplinary,” he says. “Students use scientific methodology, math skills, and state-of-the-art technology to enhance their understanding of the culinary medium and subsequently the innovative foods they prepare.”

Graduates are prepared for success in the world’s most advanced restaurants and in the research kitchens of leading foodservice companies. Members of the first graduating class have taken positions at Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark, recently named the world’s best restaurant; Firmenich, the world’s largest privately owned flavor and fragrance developer; and doing consumer research at Campbell’s Soup and food technology at Sweet Street.

BY: Francis Maling, AOS Culinary

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“Grades and Culinary Success”

Image courtesy of: CIA FOOD & BEVERAGE

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Image by: CIA/Phil Mansfield

fundamental skills from the associate’s degree program with scientific approach, and develop critical thinking with database analysis and controlled experiments using modern equipment and techniques. I spoke with Jonathan Zearfoss, Chef-Instructor in the Culinary Science degree program for the inclusion of student research and thesis in La Papillote. As part of the 9th term or Senior Year, students are required to “cook-up” their own project independently, ranging from topics like coffee, butter, eggs, practically anything that is related to the food industry.

The following is an excerpt from the course syllabus for the thesis project: “Students will conduct a comprehensive literature review of their topic, design and conduct experiments, prepare a research report summarizing their findings, and present their findings to the culinary science faculty.” It may seem like tons of work, but this isn’t too dissimilar to knowing one’s miseen-place, recipes, and timelines for daily kitchen performance and production. Jason Bell and Derek Boccagno, both seniors in the Culinary Science program, developed a thesis on “The Effects of Different Amounts of Butter on the Physiochemical

“Prickly Pear” ON CAMPUS

Professor Jonathan Zearfoss observing students conducting an experiment in The Culinary Institute of America’s Culinary Science Lab.

From Chef Coats to Lab Coats: A Look into the World of Culinary Science

Do you remember the first day of Culinary Math class? I trudged my way into that dreadful 8:45AM class every day for 6 weeks, asking myself “Why do we need math? I’m here to cook!” This is the common notion that a lot of students have upon entering the CIA. However, it’s so much more than just formulas for scaling recipes and food cost percentages.

The application of fundamental math is integral for most, if not all classes, including success during externship. The curriculum here at the CIA prepares students for so many different opportunities in the industry.

So, where does Culinary Science come into play? The newest addition to the CIA’s Bachelors Degree concentration, the Culinary Science major focuses on in-depth research and facilitating of scientific inquiries in food. The rigorous and highly competitive program allows students to apply basic Culinary Culture

The program is built on the CIA’s foundation of core culinary techniques and consists of junior- and senior-year studies. Since McGinn and eight classmates began the program in early 2013, interest has been growing rapidly.

Fifty students now major in culinary science at the CIA.

CENTER SPREAD

“What Would McCue Do?”

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“My Stage at Colicchio & Sons”

BACK PAGE

“All in Good Taste”

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LA PAPILLOTE

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THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

July 03, 2014

PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Amy Zarichnak LAYOUT EDITOR Thiana Anderson ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS

Crystal Tan Chef Freddie Brash Morghann Crossley Jeff Levine Christian Duncan Frrancis Maling

Stephanie Kirkland Chef David McCue Emilio Cerra Jameson Brown Jordan Kohn Sera Park

COMPACT

La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion.

Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize.

Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

FOOD REVIEW POLICY

As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

EDITORIAL POLICY

La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.

Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Amy Zarichnak, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.

LETTERS POLICY

Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to LaPapillote@mycia.net with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION

The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed

I am currently working in the back-of-house at Bocuse Restaurant on campus. I always looked through the window of the door to the kitchen and imagined that the students in there really knew what they were doing. I have felt that way about all my classes here at the CIA – you assume that those students ahead of you know so much more than you, and then once you actually get there, you realize it’s not as difficult as you assume it must be.

Bocuse is a different animal, a completely different experience than other restaurants on campus. There’s a lot of hype, and the customers have high expectations. Perception is key in the restaurant world, and people legitimately perceive that this restaurant is one of the best in the world.

A lot of tourists parade through the CIA daily, worshipping at the altar of what they perceive to be the origin of culinary excellence in the United States. They believe this to be the pinnacle of fine dining, the place where culinary trends are born.

But for the students, the reality is that this is just another class, and we make mistakes in there. In fact, I know that a lot of times my vegetable accompaniment sits on the hot stove, degrading in quality each moment that I sustain it hot, until the other stations are ready to plate and put our hot food in the window all at once. So, my perception of what I am putting out to the customer is very different from the way that they receive it. As someone who greatly enjoys dining out and does it frequently, I know that I have likely eaten items that have hit the floor or been held hot for too long and degraded in quality before it reached me.

So, to me, this is interesting, it’s an opportunity to make the absolutely best squash and zucchini I have ever made. It’s so simple, and my customers are paying a lot, so I want to make sure that it’s delicious. It’s been a good experience.

However, Bocuse has been a learning experience for a different reason. I greatly wanted to take this class because the chef, Jason Potanovich, has a great reputation here at the school. He substituted in one of my classes before and I remember him cruising around the kitchen, stopping and talking to each station, giving patient direction, and being easygoing and kind to everyone. And indeed, that is the way he runs the Bocuse kitchen. He’s easygoing and in control, he trusts us to do our jobs, and there have only been a couple occasions where he has even been a little irritated with us, and each time was a non-issue. No tantrums. No yelling. No insulting. It is, as one student described to me as I was coming into the Bocuse class and he was transitioning to the front-of-house service class, refreshing.

It got me thinking about leadership.

The P.M. Bocuse class has had a far rockier ride than we have. Initially, students scrambled to get out of the P.M. class and into the A.M. class. The chef in the P.M. class is harder and more strict. The first night, they were apparently there until 5A.M. They’ve had a bunch of different issues, and the more I hear, the more I started thinking about the chefs I have had here, the ones I liked and respected the most, and what kind of leader I want to be.

The CIA teaches students to be executive chefs, managers, and owners. The CIA does not emphasize line cooking. The school pushes you to be somebody, to be a leader.

I think they do a great job of equipping us with the skills needed to lead. But what if… your personality doesn’t lend itself well to leadership? What if everyone hates you?

I prefer strict chefs, I have stated this numerous times in this newspaper. But I prefer strict chefs with humanity.

Some chefs seem aggravated with everything that everyone does. In my opinion, that’s just someone who is burnt out and has a bad attitude. A good, strict chef will provide structure and order in the kitchen, expect a high level of aptitude and performance, but allow for human error, bad days, and people simply doing things differently than he/ she him/herself would do.

What I don’t understand are leaders, chefs, MIT’s, and group leaders who are simply not nice. There’s no reason for this. There is never an occasion where it is appropriate to insult. Yelling is sometimes necessary, but what’s with the attitude from some people before anything even goes wrong?

Worst of all, though, are the people who get a little power and it feeds their ego instead of realizing that their job is to facilitate learning. These people get off on telling people what to do and having the power to make people listen to them. These people need to be right, they won’t consider that they are wrong, and they use their position to be lazy and opt out of undesirable tasks, like cleaning.

They are so focused on the fact that they have been given a sliver of authority that they have lost all perspective as to how their “leadership” is being received. They never evaluate if they are effective or if their actions are producing the desired result. And as their underlings’ misery intensifies, the “leader” senses that they are losing control and respect and is harder and harder on the students. The situation for everyone just spirals downward.

People have to like working with you, otherwise they’ll choose not to work with you. You will lose employees, you’ll never motivate anyone to work to their full capacity, and you will never have the respect you so desperately want if you’re one of those people who manages with the goal of feeding your own ego. If you don’t lead with the good of the organization in mind, with the learning experience of the students in mind, you will fail. You might have the power you want initially, but you will lose it as you lose the respect of the students. It is critical that the people who you lead feel that you are on their side, facilitating success, instead of finding things wrong with what they are doing or bossing them around for your own personal gratification.

Leading a team is an essential skill in your own personal success. There are all types of leaders out there, and I’m still defining, determining, and learning what type of leader that I want to be. I know that I don’t want to be the type of leader who kicks people when they are down, who makes people do things that I myself don’t want to do, or who enjoys making people do things just for the sake of pushing them around. The ego can wreak havoc in many areas of your life if you let it lead you. ....Continued on page 4...

to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations

Maura A. King Director-Compliance

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Office: Roth Hall Room S324

Office: Roth Hall Room S351

Telephone: 845-451-1314

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Thiana A. Anderson Layout Editor

Stephanie Kirkland Copy Editor

July 03, 2014

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How Fats Have Changed in Baking

BY: Morghann Crossley, AOS Baking and Pastry

In the industry today, there is a much larger variety of fats to choose from compared to the founding days of pastry. Essentially, bakers started with what is now called “saturated fats” and “non-saturated fats.” What this means is, oil and butter. On a chemistry level, the difference between the two is simply the amount and type of molecular bonds to the hydrogen atom in carbon molecules, along with how they are shaped and their location. This is important to which type of fat we use and which method will be utilized. On a molecular level, these are things we don’t seem to think about in our day-to-day cooking, but can change our outcome dramatically.

When most people think of fat in baking, the first fat that comes to mind is butter. Butter is considered a saturated fat or a solid fat. Solid fats are utilized as stable bases for the creaming method, allowing aeration to be created from the cutting of the fat by coarse sugars. This fat is solid because of its molecular structure. Both types of fat start with carbon molecules creating a “string.” This string is then bonded naturally with hydrogen atoms. This is where the difference in fats comes in. In saturated fat’s case, each carbon has at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to them creating a strong straight compound. In doing this, these “strings” then become stackable. Once stacked, creating a solid, they become very difficult to break apart unless an outside source is used to break the bond. These fats are not healthy and cause overwhelming lipid development in the bloodstream causing cardiovascular disease. From flavor, to baking stability, butter has always been number one.

However, because of today’s health standards and industrial revolutions, this has started to change.

BY: Yisi “Crystal” Tan, AOS Baking and Pastry Prickly pear cactus is a plant of the Opuntia genus found in the North American deserts. This type of cactus has flat, fleshy pads studded with spines that look like large leaves. Unknown to many, the fruit of the nopales cactus is actually edible. These neon colored fruits are called prickly pears or “tuna”. Ripening in late summer and early fall, it is a refreshing snack eaten out-of-hand.

Prickly pear cactus has been a staple of the Mexican and Central American diets for thousands of years. Now it has been gaining popularity as an exotic, gourmet food whichis also good for you. The prickly pear plant has three different edible sections, the pad of the cactus (nopal), which can be treated like a vegetable, the petals of the flowers, which can be added to salads, and the pear (tuna), which can be treated like a fruit. Due to the immense varieties of the prickly pear plants, flavor profiles range from creamy-sweet to brisk and tart and the color can range from green to yellow, to oranges and reds to purple.

In Oaxaca, Mexico, pureed tunas are spooned and dolloped on top of horchata, the milky rice-almond drink. It can also be used anywhere apples would be used. Prickly pear juice is often used to make jam or candy but also works in cocktails and can be used in vinaigrettes for salads.

Many Mexican markets, farmers markets and natural food supermarkets carry prickly pears. These fruits are grown in California, the Southwest, Mexico and the Medditerranean. While ones in markets are cleaned of their tiny hair-like thorns, the ones fresh off the cactus are covered with them. Always be cautious and handle carefully with heavy work gloves and scrub hard to get all the thorns off.

To select cactus pears, choose pears that are firm and free

A whole new-age strain of fats derived from the idea of stable fats birthed hydrogenated oils. This was created as an alternative to “cure the health crisis of saturated fats” which, in turn, created a new kind of monster. This is the process of hydrogenating unsaturated fats. An unsaturated fat is oil. This “string” is similar to saturated but much less complex. Each carbon has a maximum of two hydrogen molecule bonds at very most, usually only one, to create a less stable product causing the “string” to kink and never stack. This allows free flow of bonds causing the solution to never solidify, making oil. Through the hydrogenation process, hydrogen molecules are then forced into the carbon molecules to create solid saturated fats. These are your high ratio shortenings and margarine of the world. High ratio shortening is a common component in the baking world for its prolonged shelf life and impeccable stability.

Unlike natural saturation of fats, the forced hydrogen bonds create an altogether more stable product. These fats also burn at much higher temperature than butter or vegetable oils making frying much easier; however they taste a lot less enjoyable when substituted for butter. Another downfall to these modified oils is the production of trans-fatty acids which is where the monster is born. Studies are showing these fats may be more harmful to you than the original saturated fat we tried to improve upon. It also leaves a not-so-appealing burn in your throat. We’ve all eaten that chocolate chip cookie.

Whether using oils in the blending method for production, saturated fats in the creaming process, or using hydrogenated oils to fry your doughnuts, fats are and will remain a staple in the baking industry, this will never change. Studies will continue and baking will live on.

Which fat we use will all depend on you and your desired product characteristics.

CIA President and Dean Speak at Welcome Conference

BY: Jeff Levine, Communications Manager, Staff Contributer

CIA President Tim Ryan and Associate Dean of Restaurant Education and Operations Jennifer Purcell joined an all-star group of presenters at a unique hospitality confab in New York City in June. The Welcome Conference is the first high-level event of Image by: the CIA its kind focused on restaurant front-of-the-house and hospitality topics.

Joining Dr. Ryan and Dean Purcell as presenters were big names such as Frank Bruni of The New York Times; Alex Wolf, general manager at Jean-Georges; Daniel Humm, chef and owner of Eleven Madison Park; and Charles Masson Jr. of Le Grenouille and the soon-to-open Baccarat Hotel.

The Welcome Conference is the brainchild of CIA bachelor’s degree graduate Anthony Rudolf ’01 and Will Guidara, co-owner of Eleven Madison Park and The Nomad.

A sell-out group of 250 attended the first Welcome Conference, which was held at The Cooper Union in downtown Manhattan and co-sponsored by the CIA.

Prickly Pear from dark spots. Choose fruits with bright magenta flesh.

Cactus pears can be stored in the refrigerator unwashed for up to one week.

To prepare prickly pears, first slice and discard both ends, then make a long vertical slice down and peel back the thick, fleshy skin. The flesh is studded with tons of little edible seeds. To extract only the juice, place the husked prickly pear into a blender and pulse until liquified. Place juice into a fine mesh sieve to seperate the seeds. Depending on the size of the prickly pears, 6-12 prickly pears will yield around one cup of juice. Juice of the prickly pear can be mixed into fresh lemonade in equal parts. Prickly pear juice is also used commercially to make jellies, candies, and syrup. Raw cactus pear fruit go well in fruit salads and smoothies.

Both the fruit and pads of the cactus are rich in fiber and pectin, which can help lower blood sugar by decreasing the absorption of sugar in the stomach and intestine.

Prickly Pear Sorbet Recipe Juice of 3/4 cup Juice of 1/2 cup

5 prickly pears water 1 lime sugar

In a small sauce pan, boil water and lime juice, stir in sugar and set aside to cool.

Add cooled syrup to juice and churn in an ice cream machine or freeze on metal tray and blitz in food processor.

Image courtesy of: www.takingonmagazines.com

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LA PAPILLOTE

Grades and Culinary Success

BY: Jameson Brown, AOS Culinary

“I just found out I got a C/D/F and now I want to know if my culinary school dreams are dashed. Can I fix this?”

Well for all you in fear, here is Jameson’s advice on what to do about getting a bad grade (insert trumpet fanfare).

The first thing I have to say is, I don’t know if your chances are damaged or not. Culinary school success is dependent on a plethora of factors. From your daily production grades, to your communication skills, to the mood of your chef. It’s a human process and thus prone to human errors. Chefs are trying to objectively decide who will make the best chefs in the industry to represent the school. That is a tough thing to predict.

So what can you do to have the best chances at culinary school? Well, see above. Work hard at your daily production, and have communication skills to match. An upbeat, positive attitude helps greatly. Sometimes having all those things at once isn’t possible. However, in this instance, we are focusing on grades. What happens if you have a low GPA? If you have a low GPA you have to ask yourself a serious question and be honest with yourself about the answer: can you handle culinary school? Culinary school is hard for a reason -- it weeds out the weak. It involves sacrifices you have yet to imagine (some I have yet to imagine, as well). Unfortunately, just having a desire to be a chef isn’t going to cut it. There is the glamour of saying you are going to the best culinary school in the U.S., and then there is the hard work behind actually doing it. Are you working to your full potential? Or is your GPA weak because you can’t hack it? If you think that might be the case then save yourself a lot of money and look for a different career.

Let’s say you had a bad block, which happens. External factors always affect academic performances and you can’t help a nasty break-up or a death in the family. If this is the case then you really need to evaluate that event and how it’s affecting you.

You can’t focus on school when dealing with your own emotional issues. Do some reflecting and find the lesson in that life event. Find something in that lesson to motivate you. I had a terrible painful medical condition this semester. It was horribly painful and I had a tough time with it. But I figured out how to grow from that adversity, and it has been a meaningful lesson in

my life ever since. Don’t quit. Grow through your tough time.

Everyone has them, and everyone has to deal with things while still going to school, or making a living. Figure out how you will cope with these things because life doesn’t stop for school.

Sometimes journaling can help to get you through it .

When you write down what’s going on, it allows you to process the event and purge your feelings on it. Write positive words.

Make your case for yourself, that you are a fighter, and won’t let life steam roll you. Reminding yourself how you will grow from this event will allow you to create positive thoughts about the event and assist you in the future when you’re down in the weeds again and can’t seem to get out. You’ll realize that you have gotten through every hard event in your life so far, and you can certainly pull through again.

But what if you were just a mediocre student prior to deciding on culinary school? Not everyone is book-smart. Well, rev your engines, get motivated, and use your resources. Put your best and worst traits out there, showing you aren’t afraid to be honest and meet with a tutor or your chef or professor. It’s okay to ask for help if you need it.

My own personal story is that my interest in culinary started out as a selfish endeavor, looking for prestige and respect.

But as I learned more about what the profession was about, I found a calling for a different reason, something that spoke to me instead of what the perks of the profession might offer me.

Very possibly, you won’t be motivated to do well at something unless you’re passionate about it. Find something about food that makes you passionate. Chefs enjoy working with students who love an aspect of the industry and immerse themselves in it.

Find a mentor. Just ask someone you admire if they will mentor you!

In the worst case scenario, you can always do some postassociate work (community college) or work in a restaurant to beef up your application if you find your GPA has held you back from finding the job of your dreams. Is it the wrong choice to have to put extra time in? Never! But the real question is, how far do you want to go as a chef ? If you aren’t willing to put in a couple extra months to a year to get there, maybe that answers the question already. The CIA does not breed line cooks; the CIA breeds managers and restaurant owners. Is that your goal?

I hope this helps. As I am fond of saying, there is always a chance. Success relies on how hard you are willing to work to obtain it.

Students Learn About Beverage Careers

BY: Jeff Levine, Communications Manager, Staff Contributer

Hundreds of CIA students were introduced to a multitude of new career possibilities during a day-long symposium about the beverage world on the Hyde Park campus this spring.

Nineteen speakers shared their experiences in the beverage industry and participated in lively panel discussions on topics such as Beverage Trends, Being a Sommelier, Life Behind the Bar, Wine and Spirits in Today’s Media, and From the Kitchen to the Front of the House.

“The symposium helped our students see new possibilities for career paths they can pursue, such as brewer, sommelier, distiller, or beverage manager,” says Douglass Miller ’89, associate professor of hospitality and service management at the CIA and organizer of the event.

“Many CIA students start out planning for careers behind the stove before falling in love with the beverage side of the hospitality business.”

Some recent CIA alumni who have achieved success in this field and spoke at the symposium included bachelor’s degree graduates Gonzalo Gout ’12, manager at Enrique Olvera ’97’s new Cosme restaurant in New York City and Brendan O’Rourke ’09, distiller at Tuthilltown Spirits

CIA and MIT “reThink Food”

BY: Jeff Levine, Communications Manager, Staff Contributer

Every dish we cook and every meal we eat represents the convergence of head, heart, and hands. reThink Food: Mind, Behavior, and Culture, is a new conference co-presented by the CIA and Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) Media Lab to explore how we experience food—from the workings of our sensory systems, to the impact of new technologies on our food systems, to the habits and rituals that bind us. reThink Food will bring people from the science, marketing, technology, food, and media industries to the Greystone campus in November. The three-day program will include research presentations, panel discussions, tastings, culinary demonstrations, and a variety of sensory experiences led by world-class experts. reThink Food will also review and reveal cutting-edge ideas in product development and marketing that are spurring growth in the trillion-dollar American food sector.

The conference hashtag for social media is #CIAMITfood.

Veteran Profiled in Major Media

BY: Jeff Levine, Communications Manager, Staff Contributer

US military veteran and CIA sophomore Matthew Gates was featured in a segment that ran nationally on Public Radio International’s The World program in late May. Gates and his CIA experience were also the topic of the first article in the Boston Globe’s new Returning Home series, focusing on New England veterans transitioning to their post-military life.

Gates is just one of about 150 current CIA students who have served on active duty in the U.S. Army, Navy, Air Force, Marines, or Coast Guard. Most are attending with the assistance of Post-9/11 GI Bill and Yellow Ribbon Program benefits.

The CIA’s commitment to America’s service members goes back to the college’s founding in 1946, when the first class of students consisted of World War II veterans studying with the support of the original GI Bill. For 68 years, the college has worked closely with all branches of the U.S. military, providing culinary training for active service members and college education for those beginning their post-military professional careers. Information for veterans interested in enrolling at the CIA can be found at www.ciachef.edu/veterans.

Editorial

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If your employees, coworkers, and fellow students dread working with you, something is wrong. If you are disliked, trust me, there is a reason why. Likely, you know the reason. This is an opportunity for personal growth.

I have had enough bad bosses that I can say with certainty that the organization never benefits from someone who is power-hungry, ineffective, selfish, or just plain mean.

If people don’t like you, you are not an effective leader. If people don’t like you, it’s time to self-evaluate.

If people don’t like you, you shouldn’t be a leader, and you won’t be for long, because no one will follow you.

Image by: CIA/Phil Mansfield in Gardiner, NY; and associate degree alumni Maureen Petrosky ’99, lifestyle expert for NBC’s Today show; Laura Battiato ’08, fine wine manager at Palm Bay International importers and Kellen Hamrah ’10, service manager at New York City’s Stella 34 Trattoria.

Amy Z. Az772942@cia.culinary.edu

“Leadership is a potent combination of strategy and character. But if you must be without one, be without the strategy.” -- Norman Schwarzkopf

July 03, 2014

ON CAMPUS

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Culinarians Against Cancer Club and the Relay For Life Event

BY: Stephanie Kirkland, BPS Culinary

It’s a day that has been in the works for months. A day that will be a catalyst for many more conversations about food, health, wellness, and communication between The Culinary Institute of America and the community of the Hudson Valley. A day that some close friends of mine have put all of their energy into for so long. The day I am speaking of, and one I am looking forward to very much is the Relay for Life on July 12th.

The Culinarians Against Cancer Club is collaborating with the American Cancer Society by advocating, educating, and providing awareness about cancer. “As future leaders in the food industry, we are responsible for bridging the gap between food and life.” The core mission of The Culinarians Against Cancer Club is to support the cause of finding a cure. “We intend to encourage students to promote cancer prevention through wellness in cooking and lifestyle choices.” To raise funds in collaboration with The Culinary Institute of America and to promote and support The American Cancer Society, the Relay for Life is a “parallel alliance among all students and student organizations on campus as well as between and among the Hudson Valley local chapter, as well as other college campuses in the area.”

Already, Culinarians Against Cancer has shown great potential outside of coordinating Relay for Life, becoming recipients of the Spring 2014 outstanding new organization award.

In speaking with co-president’s Haley Rutolo and April Heckathorn, and Vice President Ellen McKendry, I was able to gain even further insight into why this organization was one they were willing to dedicate so much time to, as well as their hopes for the outcome of the Relay considering all of their hard work. Haley remarked, “I hope to spread awareness about how we can bridge the gap between food and life as leaders in the food industry. It would be incredible to see the entire CIA community come together to finish the fight against cancer.”

Ellen stated, “I hope to bring attention to our community the importance of food in our lives and how it affects the body. Fifty percent of cancer is preventable and we can help to make a difference! It’s so empowering and inspirational to see all the help we have received from the school, friends, and family. I’d like to go out with a bang, and I think my friends and I are achieving just that!”

And April pitched in with a final note, “We knew that this relay would be a humbling experience for our campus and community to participate in, and we are so full of pride when we see how much the CIA has come together to make this happen (in addition to all of our hard work, of course!) Even though it has been a lot for everyone involved to take on and put this event

College & Alumni Awards

BY: Jeff Levine, Communications Manager, Staff Contributer

Jennifer Yee ’12, executive pastry chef at New York City’s Lafayette, was named a Top Ten Pastry Chef in the United States for 2014 by Dessert Professional magazine.

For last fall’s Worlds of Flavor International Conference and Festival at the Greystone campus, the CIA launched a mobile app for the first time. That technology-based resource for attendees was chosen as the Best Conference App of the Year at the Cvent Planner Awards.

The app provided interactive networking opportunities and easy access to conference recipes, videos, schedules, maps, and presenter bios. Appropriately, the theme of the conference was “Kitchens Connected,” and focused on creativity, technology, and innovation

together in such a short period of time, I can say that it’s been one of the most satisfying projects I’ve been involved in here at the CIA, and one that is so close to all of our hearts.”

Personally having been involved with such a project, and one that we all have been touched by in one way or another, while

somehow managing to grow with my friends in our own relationships, has been inspiring and quite a humbling experience. My own hope is that I can assist in any way, so that Haley, April, Ellen, and all of the Culinarians Against Cancer can take in all of the rewards of a job well done.

6

LA PAPILLOTE

CENTER SPREAD

Center What Would McCue Do?

BY: Chef Dave McCue, CIA Faculty Contributor

Editor’s Note: Chef McCue has a Facebook page up that highlights all the goings-on in his kitchens. Of course, the funniest ones are the catastrophes and the silly things students do. With his big heart and quick-witted tongue, we thought it would be fun to hear his advice on some of the students’ problems. We asked some students what was going on in their lives that they needed help with, and here are his replies. Need advice? Submit your questions to Chef McCue by emailing lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.

Chef McCue’s Note: First and foremost, I would like to thank everyone for considering my semi-vast accrual of selectively pertinent, and often trivial, knowledge as a psychological sounding board for the sophomoric shenanigans that students engage in on an all-too-frequent basis. Nevertheless, the fact that you are turning to a media source as a means of resolution can only mean one of two things: One, you realize this is solely for entertainment purposes and that this should be taken as seriously as financial advice from a Ouji board, or perhaps even skydiving advice from a turtle. Two, you really are at the end of your rope if this is all you have to go on. In which case, hold on, your life is about to get even more messed up if you listen to me. Welcome, one and all, to the WWMD advice page. Buckle up and enjoy the ride. I aspire to offend everyone equally.

Dear Chef McCue: Did you put those signs up, “Put Chefs over Shrubs?” Sounds like something you’d say.

Jared, AOS Culinary

Jared, I think the signs say “Put Chefs before Shrubs”. Chefs over shrubs sounds like a precursor to a good old fashioned immolating. You say I put them up because it sounds like something I would say.

Hmmm, I say lot’s of things, a lot of which should not be on signs for the public to see. Regardless, there they are. Who put them up?

Someone who wanted to share a message. That’s what signs are all about. Maybe they’re not effective however because you question who has installed them. However, the fact that they sparked your interest means they were slightly effective. Did I put them up, without a doubt I cannot confirm that such a course wouldn’t indeed not be the sort of thing I would perceive of not doing in order to send some sort of message. Capice?

Dear Chef McCue: I’m an attractive, straight-looking gay male. I always get hit on by women! I’m looking for a snappy comeback. They’re not getting it when I tell them we can go shopping on our first date.

Twinkle-Toes, AOS Culinary Dear Twinkle-Toes, I know, I’ve read a lot about the dating scene here on campus and the ladies seem to be really short on datable material. Adding insult to injury, you not only removed a viable product from their market, but you go one step further to tap into their inventories.

They might not be receptive to hearing that you’re gay. So, try to let ‘em down nicely with a bit of humor that is less subtle; how about…”You know, it just won’t work out between us...we’re too much alike….we both like men.” or “ You know how you dream about beautiful, well sculpted, articulate men...what a coincidence, so do I.” And if subtlety doesn’t wind up working, go with the old standby…”I’m sorry, you’re cute and all, but I’m gay….do you have a brother though?”

Dear Chef McCue: Because of the stupid alphabet, I always get the worst partners in the kitchen! The person right before me in the alphabet and the person after me are completely incompetent in the kitchen, and I always get stuck with them. I feel like they are dragging my grades down. Can I ask chefs to pair me with someone else, or is there a better way to deal with classmates who are kitchen hacks?

Anonymous

Photo by: Maria Daniela Moreira Camia Anonymous, Yes, it is completely within your right to ask for an assignment change. The Chef may not grant it, but it doesn’t hurt to ask. As far as dragging your grade down, don’t be discouraged. Chances are standing next to someone “completely incompetent” will make you look a little better. I mean, in a dark room even a tiny candle is bright. Just keep doing the right thing, trust me, Chef sees it. Be the brightest tiny candle you can be. And if all else fails, have you considered changing your name?

Dear Chef McCue: My roommate keeps borrowing my clothes. It’s driving me insane. I’ve told her not to touch them, but aside from locking them up, I can’t keep her from them. But it’s weird, borrowing clothes from someone who has ask you not to do that. What’s the best way to deal with my sociopath roommate?

Lindsey, AOS Baking & Pastry Lindsey, I am not sure your roommate borrowing your clothes without asking makes her a sociopath. Does she pretend that she’s you when she does, opening up bank accounts and dating your boyfriend?

Now that would make her a sociopath. Well, if she insists on using your clothes try having only your dirty clothes accessible to her.

That way she would at least have to wash them before she wore them. When she does, go grab them out of the dryer. And yes, I would lock up my clothes if I were you.

Dear Chef McCue: I think the stress of the school is really getting to me and I’ve been having more and more frequent migraines. I’m kind of scared to tell my parents, and I don’t know what to do. I’ve missed a couple classes because of this. What do I do?

Anonymous Anonymous, First, stress is good. It’s your body’s way of telling you that you are in a place where you do not feel secure. When we move away from normalcy, or homeostasis, our bodies strive to correct. Hence stress.

In extreme cases stress comes in the form of traumatic conflict and will release chemicals, typically adrenaline, to assist us in our fight or flight trigger mechanism. Continued exposure to the hormone, which is toxic, causes stress and fatigue and is thought to cause humans to create conditions for less than favorable neurological outcomes, aka poor decision making. The trick to dealing with stress is to be ready for situations as they arise. If you can foresee the problem, you can be prepared for it, hence it won’t seem so

insurmountable and therefore induce less stress. So, my advice to you...prepare yourself better and chill out, relax and enjoy the ride.

Just don’t enjoy it as much as Matt did.

Dear Chef McCue: Seriously, be honest: Did you get censored? Because your columns have sucked lately.

Anonymous Anonymous, Yowza, my columns have “sucked”? Even though the content hasn’t been racy lately it’s been humorous and helpful at least. Some were even downright witty. You might think I need to be edited, always saying things to brusquely or honestly, but I am capable of occasionally writing without policing. Even if the questions I am asked can only go in one direction, there are ways of subtly getting the message across. So, “did I get censored?” Your perception of a writing style change may be warranted. Everybody is, in fact, entitled to their opinion. Sincerely though, who would ever censor me?

Dear Chef McCue: I love your columns! You give the best advice. I like this guy in my class who is the best at everything he does. I feel shy and intimidated around him, though. How can I feel confident enough to flirt with him?

Anonymous Anonymous, Thank you, I try. I hope my advice is as helpful to you as it is entertaining to others. So, here goes. If there is one thing I have gathered about the criteria for flirtation students have on this campus, it is this….There is none. Just go for it, starting a relationship with a guy is easy. Maintaining it and being happy with the fruit it yields is another thing. We’ll talk later I’m sure. So don’t be surprised if it doesn’t turn into a long term thing, just ask Nicole? Chances are he’s interested and will show interest, even if only for a short while, once he realizes you are interested in him.

Unless he asks you if you have a brother or wants to go shopping on the first date. If he does, you might not be his type.

July 03, 2014

7

r Spread From Chef Coats to Lab Coats

....Continued from page 1...

and Sensory Properties of Glace de Viande.” In his experiment, he took into account various recipes for glace de viande, tweaked them to his preferences for a controlled variable, and consulted with several chefs about possibilities for outcomes. To put practice into play, Derek makes a tilt skillet-worth of stock, roughly 20-gallons, reducing it to about 10-gallons, then eventually to glace. During the experiment, Derek records several elements, including maintenance of a temperature range from 98-99 degrees Celcius and pH level every hour until the desired specifications were reached. Viscosity is also measured throughout this process as well as visible color changes. This same application goes through the focal point of the thesis, which is the effect of varying amounts of butter in different stages. Derek also took samples of the glace and placed them (literally!) under a microscope to further measure molecular changes within the glace. For the sensory part of his thesis, he took the finished sauce for panelists to taste and observe. The collected data will then be part of his findings and conclusion. Upon completion, Derek states that “It’s a ton of work, but it’s a very interesting type of project to undertake. There are so many culinary questions out there, but I don’t believe anyone understands what it takes to just try and skim the surface of answering some of those questions.”

It’s exciting to see what these scientific culinarians can do. As far as any research and development company goes, the Culinary Science Program expands the world of food beyond just cooking or waiting for salted water to boil. Restaurants are competitive enough as it is, however these students are strapping themselves with a different arsenal of tools and knowledge when they go out into the industry. “It’s kind of like a mix of both worlds where I’m still able to be scientific and still look at how food connects together,” says Lea Aclan, a 7th-Term student in the culinary science program. She will be in her 9th term shortly and she’s very excited to be part of the program.

“It’s a different experience for everyone,” says Jason Ball on his progress for his own thesis project on coffee. He is currently collecting data, reviewing previous research and studies on coffee, and hopes to begin his testing on “Influence of Particle Size on Physiochemical and Sensory Properties of Press Pot Coffee.”

Jason’s findings will be covered in the next issue of La Papillote.

Hyde Park Community Gardens BY: Jordan Kohn, AOS Culinary Last year a new partnership was started with the Hyde Park Community Garden located at St. James Church in Hyde Park, NY. The CIA is employing students through the work-study program to manage the gardens and is making a huge difference in the community while doing so.

The garden is divided into 25X25 foot plots, three of which go directly to the food bank to help the hungry of our community. The plots that are donated to the food bank employ mostly organic growing practices without the use of synthetic pesticides or weed killers.

Community supporter and church member Deborah Belding fought for this garden when she saw a need to feed more of the community. She then was able to partner with the CIA for one of the plots that is donated directly to the food bank. The school’s partnership with the garden goes as far as using the compost made by the company the food waste is donated to.

This growing season two students have made a huge difference in the life of the garden. Trever Foley was able to bring his background of many years of organic farming and gardening to the community garden to employ a technique different than the one seen in the previous growing season. He grew up with gardens and fresh foods around him at all times so the farm-to-table movement is truly a way of life to him. In the future he plans to have a farm with seating a few nights a week to showcase the bounty of the farm. He brought bio-intensive gardening techniques to the community garden. Bio-intensive farming relies on a double dig method, which aerates the soil up to two feet underground to be able to grow more food in less space. This method is vital to supplying the food bank with much needed fresh produce. Using these techniques, two to four times the amount of food is produced compared to traditional gardening methods. This allows the food pantry to offer up and feed everyone who goes there on Friday mornings. Foley is at the garden on a daily basis working both to educate other gardeners on new techniques, and to feed the hungry of Hyde Park.

The other student who is employed at the garden is Mack-

enzie Korb. She has wholeheartedly embraced learning more about the techniques needed to grow sustainable foods. She has put many hours in digging beds and planting seeds so that just three weeks after the beds were dug, food was already being sent to the food bank. She has been vital in transforming the CIA plot from weed-filled land to a bountiful garden that produces enough food that no one walks away without. This garden is the perfect opportunity to discover what farm-to-table cuisine is really about. Korb has always been interested in farm-to-table cuisine but had not had the experience of growing her own food until she started work at the community garden. Working at the garden has helped her to understand the work that is required and has given her a new perspective on cooking. This has led her to treat food with more respect and have a better connection to the earth, which is another source of inspiration to her when cooking. She feels as chefs that we have a social responsibility to make sure the food we use is fresh, local, and healthy.

The garden is also doing an “earth-to-table” cooking demonstration every other Sunday. These include new and innovative ways to cook food such as nettles, radishes, and mustard greens. The purpose behind this is to showcase products that people often may not have heard of or know what to do with. It is another way of giving back and educating the community on diet, health, and wellness. The community garden is thriving as it allows students to have a way to both educate themselves and give back to the community they belong to.

Springtime at The Culinary Institute of America: New Campus Landscaping La Papillote is looking for it’s new Editor-in-Chief!

The current editor is graduating this summer and we are beginning our search for the new editor. The new editor must have good writing and grammar skills, and enjoy managing a team! Must be available at least ten hours per week for newspaper duties.

Good organizational skills, good people skills, a go-getter attitude, and a sense of community will serve the new editor well.

Send your resume to Eric Howard at e_howard@culinary.edu for consideration.

LA PAPILLOTE

8

BY: Sera Park, AOS Culinary

Facts About a Fat-Free Diet

The cover of TIME magazine, published June 23, 2014, had an eye-catching design. It also had an unique cover, with a bold black background and geometrically sliced yellow butter, with an eye-catching phrase at the center of the page: “Eat butter.” Butter is made from heavy cream; it is a fat, so many people try not to eat too much butter or eat none at all. After several studies telling us that fat is bad for us and causes many diseases, people think avoiding fat is the best way to be healthier. However, type 2 diabetes has increased 166% since 1980, and in addition to that, cardiovascular disease is the most common disease in the U.S. Because people care about their body, the rate of how many people work out on a regular basis has increased, but still it does not fix the health problem in the United States. This article in Time magazine, “Eat Butter”, by Bryan Walsh, clears up what has been researched over the past few decades and illustrates the truth is about fat.

Dr. Ancel Keys is the physiologist who researched how fat affects human health. Keys’ Seven Countries Study observes people in different countries with diverse food cultures. Unlike the U.S., France and West Germany have low rates of heart disease although they have a highfat diet. To compare the Greek island of Crete with the neighboring isle of Corfu, Cretans had much higher rates of heart disease since they consume more saturated fat.

According to Dr. Walter Willett, the head of the apart-

ment of nutrition at the Harvard School of Public Health, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated fats in some vegetables and fish are beneficial for heart health. This is why people in countries such as France, Germany, and Corfu are healthier even though they consume fat-rich foods, such as in the Mediterranean diet containing lots of fish, nuts, vegetables, and olive oil.

Since 1980, people consume less whole milk, refined white sugar, beef, eggs, butter and vegetables, but eat more high fructose corn syrup, corn products, skim milk, chicken, turkey and added fats and oils. Obesity is a serious concern in the U.S. There are a lot of people who care about what they eat only in the context of trying to lose weight. The first thing they do is reduce the amount of fat intake. People are afraid to eat fat when they care about their body. Diabetes, obesity, heart problems, and other illness are the result of fat consumption. People reduce fat intake and start to replace it with another supplement, such as carbohydrates. The problem starts right here: once a human over-consumes carbohydrates, sugar, and sweeteners, it changes our blood chemistry in a way that helps to store the calories as fat in the body and actually intensifies hunger, making it difficult to lose weight. Unfortunately, Walsh gave an example about this; “simple carbs like bread and corn may not look like sugar on your plate, but in your body, that’s what they’re converted to when digested.” Furthermore, low-fat and low-calorie diets are

Culinary Cartoon

BY: Christian Duncan, AOS Culinary

a problem. Insulin causes weight-gain, and the cells in the human body become more resistant to insulin if one keeps consuming the low-fat and low-calorie diet.

The best thing, people can do for their healthy body, is to keep tracking what they eat and compare it to the “daily food plan” from the United States Department of Agriculture. It helps to have a balanced meal with lots of nutrients. It is also important to remember to have healthy meals without over-consuming one essential nutrient, such as carbs, or under-consumption or non-consumption of another essential nutrient, such as fat. ChooseMyPlate.gov has a great program to track your daily diet and physical activity. They also have many recommendations for healthy eating. If you have access to a computer, you can access the website free-of-charge.

According to Walsh’s research, many people misunderstand fat. They just avoid fat intake at all, but the truth is, people can still become unhealthy as a result of over-consuming carbohydrates, which convert to fat after eating.

In addition to this, they may get used to eating low-fat or low-calorie meals, which makes them resistant to insulin, which casuses them to gain weight. Eating healthy, balanced meals while including all the essential nutrients and not avoiding any of them, will help to make you feel better both on the inside and on the outside.

July 03, 2014

FOOD & BEVERAGE

9

My Stage at Colicchio & Sons

BY: Emilio Cerra, AOS Culinary

I have always dreamed of living in New York City. Maybe it was simply the allure of a large city stemming from living in a small town my entire life. Maybe it’s the tremendously diverse melting pot of cultures and the ready availability of so many different types of people, activities, and food. When I decided to stop studying computer science and dedicate myself to my true passion (cooking, duh), my immediate goal was to be able to work in the Big Apple one day. This, of course, worked out neatly with always wanting to live there. What I never anticipated was how quickly that might become a reality.

As part of the application/interview process for a restaurant it is typical to trail/stage for a night in order to not only allow the chef(s) to see how you work and if you “fit in” to their kitchen crew, but also to give yourself a chance to see if you like that atmosphere and the“feel” of said kitchen. As my externship continues to creep closer I planned several stages in and around New York City. My first stage (ever, actually!) was this past Saturday and it was possibly one of the most exciting experiences of my life.

After having spoken with Chris Lavey, the Chef de Cuisine at the esteemed Colicchio & Sons in the Chelsea

neighborhood, at the career fair, we agreed on an evening for me to spend in his kitchen. Having never staged anywhere before, I was obviously pretty nervous but also extremely excited. The date slowly came closer and closer and with it my level of nervousness and excitement grew with it. The night before my stage I spent a while sharping my chef knife and paring knife to a razor edge. Sharpening a knife seems to have an almost meditative quality to it. The precision required in having to keep a correct angle and constant pressure on the knife, along with the dedicated focus needed to be able to actually achieve that results in a hands-on connection with a tool so critical to a cook. It feels good. Ideally, your knife should become an extension of your body, and like it, it requires care and attention to detail.

After arriving to the city significantly earlier than expected, I took advantage of the time to not only scope out the location of the restaurant but also to grab a slice of pizza, which, of course, was quite delicious, being in New York City. I also realized that the famous Chelsea Market was just across the street so I spent some time wandering around in there and visiting the cool stores such as Bowery Kitchen Supply and Posman Books.

As the time for my stage came closer, I returned to the restaurant and told the host why I was there, and he excitedly directed one of the servers -- who was a CIA alumnus -- to show me to the kitchen and locker room.

After quickly changing, I was given a quick tour of the kitchen and stations by one of the sous chefs before being handed off to one of the garde manger cooks (Shaun). He gave me a more thorough tour of the kitchen, including the downstairs prep area and the three different walk-ins.

He quickly put me to work cutting the tips of some green asparagus for an asparagus salad (more on that later). Shaun and the other cooks/chefs were shockingly friendly throughout my time there, starting with most of them coming-up to me and introducing themselves and offering their help if I needed anything. As the service continued to come closer the pace of the kitchen began to increase exponentially but regardless, no one was rude when I asked them questions about what they were preparing ,but instead gave me very thorough explanations and even gave me samples. One of the pastry cooks seemed taken aback when I asked her what she was making as she scooped sugar into a food processor with what looked like large capers. She explained she was making pistachio Florentines and to my surprise, came back some time later with a sample for me to try. That was the first of many, many delicious treats that were given to me.

After finishing the green asparagus I was directed to peel white asparagus which I had only seen in a can before. These were not your average canned asparagus, they were about as thick as the end of a French rolling pin and of the utmost freshness. After I peeled them, Shaun blanched them and brought them back for me to cut down the middle and then on a bias and afterwards, I segmented some grapefruit. At this point I am having a great time; I expected to be much less involved and actually having work to do was awesome. What was even better was later when I realized that my prep work made up a majority of the components of a fantastic asparagus salad that sold quite well based on the number of times Chef Lavey read it off the tickets that printed off while he worked the pass.

As service began I was moved to the canapés station where a CIA extern was working (Patrick). Patrick explained to me the canapés that came off his station and delegated me to making the smoked burrata canapé which consisted off a thin sprinkle of botarga on a bowl, a round of bread, a piece of burrata topped with summer savory, salt, chives, and EVOO that was then smoked using a PolyScience “Smoking Gun.” As service progressed, I spent some time observing the different stations as well as briefly helping to plate the aforementioned asparagus salad. During this entire time, different cooks kept bringing me food under the direction of Chef Lavey. I am absolutely positive that I ate better that evening than any of the (paying) guests that dined there that night. Ranging from a pasta dish made with Burgundy snails, leeks, and stinging nettles, to watermelon, both red and yellow, compressed in lime juice, to a scallop on a bed of summer ragout. If someone had told me that you would be fed food of this caliber while staging at arguably one of the best restaurants in the city, I would have starting doing this the moment I started classes at the CIA. As the service wound down, I sat down with Chef Lavey and his main sous chef to discuss how the evening had been for me, which consisted primarily of answering my questions. He said he was happy to take on any extern who was willing to work hard, and instructed me to keep in touch. The combination of the quality of the dishes being made, the level of professionalism evident in Chef Lavey’s crew, along with all of his employees’ interest in sharing their knowledge and experience, has put Colicchio & Sons near the top of my list of restaurants to work at during my externship. That stage was one of the most exiting experiences I have had since starting here, and I am excited not only about going on externship, but about my future in the culinary industry in general.

LA PAPILLOTE

10

AOS Graduation Speaker: Maricel Presilla Born in Santiago de Cuba, Maricel Presilla is a culinary historian, author, and chef who specializes in the cuisines of Latin America and Spain. She studied medieval Spanish history at the University of Valladolid in Spain and continued her studies at New York University, earning a PhD. Dr. Presilla has taught medieval history at NYU and Rutgers University, where she created courses in culinary history.

She received formal training in cultural anthropology and has done considerable research on agriculture, with special emphasis on tropical crops, cacao, vanilla, and chocolate.

Chef Presilla is the author of five books, including Gran Cocina Latina: The Food of Latin America, which in 2013 was named Cookbook of the Year by the James Beard Foundation and won an International Association of Culinary Professionals Cookbook Award in the General category.

She is also president of Gran Cacao, a Latin American food marketing company specializing in cacao educational programs, chocolate research and marketing, and heirloom cocoa bean trade. Chef Presilla has worked as a product development and marketing consultant for several food companies, including Chocolates El Rey, C.A. in Venezuela, which she helped introduce to the American market in 1995. In addition, she has helped organize successful media trips to the cacao-growing areas of Venezuela for American and European food writers and has conducted chocolate seminars, tastings, and chocolate events throughout the United States, Latin America, and Europe.

Dr. Presilla received professional training as a chef at

Felipe Rojas-Lombardi’s The Ballroom restaurant in New York, the first tapas bar in the United States. She and her recipes have appeared in major publications in the U.S. and abroad, including a 26-page spread in Gourmet magazine in 2009. She is a food columnist for the Miami Herald and a contributing editor for Saveur magazine. In 2009, she received the prestigious Silver Spoon Award from Food Arts magazine for her sterling performance in the culinary arts and was the first Latin American woman to be invited to serve as a guest chef at the White House.

Chef Presilla is the co-owner and chef of Zafra, a PanLatin restaurant; and Cucharamama, a South American restaurant; both in Hoboken, NJ. Their menus reflect Chef Presilla’s travels and experiences, bringing together her love for Latin America and Spain. In 2010, she opened Ultramarinos, a food store, bakery, and cooking atelier specializing in Latin American and Spanish foods and ingredients, fine chocolates, and Blue Cacao, her own truffle line. In 2012, she was named Best Chef for the Mid-Atlantic Region by the James Beard Foundation, the first Latin American woman to receive this distinction and the second chef from New Jersey since 2000 to be so honored.

Maricel Presilla serves on the Latin Cuisines Advisory Committee for The Culinary Institute of America and the board of the Fine Chocolate Industry Association. She is also a founding member and trustee of Direct Cacao and a founder and Grand Jury member of the International Chocolate Awards.

AOS Graduating Class of June 13, 2014

Culinary Arts Group #1

Front Row: Kevin Acosta, Ashley Hawkins, Cynthia Rizzoli, Robert Tanner, Brian Cornine Back Row: David Labrecque, Jon Engle, Soonoh Jo, Travis Bugge

Culinary Arts Group #3

Front Row: Sariheidy Acuna, Lauren LaScalia, Taylor Sukiennik, Nicholas Rojas, Austin McManus, Kyu Hyun Cho, Dumont Williams Back Row: Kevince Pierre-Louis Etienne, Jiyong Park, Sonia L. Toral, Joseph Savelli, Daniel Lee, Kevin Lindgren, Nicholas Ellison, Tamar Paikowsky

Culinary Arts Group #2

Front Row: Francis Maling, Joan Porambo, Erin Mary Breen, Evan Landry, Donghyun Lee Back Row: Gareth Alonso, Jared Serr, DeAndre Weaver, Jason Hojin Choi, Ryan Senatore

Baking & Pastry

Front Row: Alexandria Ventrella, Tiara-May Moyer, Elizabeth DiBello, Charlotte Taylor, Diana Matias, Chloe Shaffner, Melissa Pianin, Mary Natasha Seals Back Row: Margaret McAndrew, Kate Gannon, Franco Alonzo, Alexandra Fragoso, David Slonkosky, Brittney Delgado, Amanda Dassatti, John Spanninger, Payton Hensley

POT LUCK

July 03, 2014

The Glass is Half Full

BY: Freddie Brash, Chef Instructor

I left class the other day a little out of it. I have learned in life to always look at situations as the glass being half full, not empty. It’s all about gratitude, chefs!

So, what happened?

I had a bad day at the Culinary Institute of America. I have had many bad days in my career in the past when cooking, mainly because I sometimes was negative and far too serious and always looking at life and seeing the glass half empty. I felt like there were always problems to be solved instead of “what I can bring to this day?” Who knows how this attitude starts? Is it in our human make-up, or do we learn it on the streets, or do we pick it up from other people in the kitchens where we have worked?

I can remember as an apprentice for Hilton Hotels, I always went to work with the attitude of, “what will I have to deal with today?” It was a huge kitchen, and the cooks were in a union, so they did not have the best attitude.

That was not their fault -- a union sometimes teaches employees to act that way. I was an apprentice, so sometimes I would show up at work and not know what station I would be working, which did not help matters with my emotional stability, and mainly caused my mind to churn.

I was on the grill station one night, and it was a busy steak house. There were two of us, and Sammy, the other cook, said to me, “Break time! I have to go.” I looked at him, and said, “Are you crazy?!” As I eyed all the dupes, I realized that if he was serious, my station was going down.

Well,Freddy B. learned what being “in the weeds” meant. Man down!

So Chef Violante, the Executive Chef at the hotel, had to come out of his office and help me. That didn’t make him happy with me.

There was a lesson to be learned here.

With Sammy taking his breaks at inconvenient moments, I was forced to work alone, and I became a pretty good grill cook. Sammy became my teacher. Glass half full.

Another lesson I learned was delivered via a waiter I worked with named Bob. I swear it every check had a different special request. If asparagus went with the salmon that day, his customer would want carrots. If the salmon came with a beuure blanc sauce, his customer wanted Hollandaise. I am positive that he was suggesting these changes to the customer. Every day, I went to cook at this restaurant, and Bob was renting space in my head while I ranted and railed about him silently to myself. Not healthy for a cook. Not healthy for anyone, really.

Then one day Bob had a party at his house in Long Island. He invited the entire kitchen staff, which I thought was pretty nice of him. As we ate, drank, and shared stories, I realized that Bob’s family situation at home was not an easy one for him. From that day onm I accepted Bob for how he did things, and if he wanted special sauces or special vegetables on his plates for his customers, Freddy B would prepare them for him. Bob was a good waiter, and this was his way of pleasing the customers and doing his job to the best of his ability.

Chefs, we are in the hospitality business.

Bob certainly did not become my best buddy, but I behaved in a professional manner, and, simply put, I changed my bad attitude. Glass half full.

Chefs, how do we stay in the positive all the time? I am not sure of the answer, but I can share with you how the other bad day at culinary turned into a good one.

I asked a student to come to class early last week to talk about their grade. That student helped me to cook some vegetables for the class, and we had a nice talk.

Right after that bad day at the CIA, I read an e-mail from the student expressing his gratitude for spending time with me.

At that moment I looked up, and said “thank you,” and broke out of that feeling of always beating myself up for thinking that I had not taught my class to the best of my ability that day. Glass half full.

That’s it, chefs!! Put gratitude in your attitude!

I am not perfect, of course, but I do try to look at the bright side of life these days. We’re all works in progress!

Staffer Helps Brigadier General Celebrate His Star

BY: Jeff Levine, Communications Manager, Staff Contributer

When newly promoted U.S. Army Brigadier General Richard B. Dix was a battalion commander in Germany in 2006, little did he know that one of his charges would later graduate from the CIA and help him celebrate the biggest day of his military career.

General Dix recently received his first General Officer star at a ceremony at Ft. Myer, VA. Invited to attend was Eric E. Jenkins ’13, the former soldier who enrolled at the CIA after completing his army service. Jenkins presented his former commander with a cake he created to mark the occasion. It was served to more than 300 family,

The UPS Store

friends, and guests of General Dix. “Sergeant First Class Jenkins possessed exceptional culinary skills as our dining facility assistant manager and manager during my command,” Brigadier General Dix said. “I was not surprised by the work of art he prepared for my promotion ceremony. A class act and chef. Everyone enjoyed his creation!”

Jenkins retired from the army in 2008. After transitioning to civilian life and earning a bachelor’s degree in culinary arts management from the CIA, Jenkins has continued his connection to the military as the college’s veterans admissions counselor.

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11

All In Good Taste

A Commentary on Life at the CIA as a Non-Traditional Student BY: Amy Zarichnak, AOS Culinary

The 5th term practical.

Ugh. I took mine on Wednesday, June 11th. I passed, but the truth is, it wasn’t easy. In fact, I’d say it was downright unpleasant. Again.

I hate practicals. I understand the necessary evil of them, I get what they are trying to accomplish. But it doesn’t get any easier for me, because I’m just a nervous person by nature.

I don’t always get physically nervous, but I am always mentally anxious about things that I perceive are important.

Passing the practical is important. You can’t graduate if you don’t pass it, and I didn’t do well enough on my 2nd term practical to assume that I’d pass the 5th term practical.

I realize it’s all basic technique, the food is not difficult, and I know how to cook everything that I am supposed to cook. I also know that the time is always tight with the practicals – I’m an extremely efficient person, and I always have just enough time to cook the food – no more, no less. I was right on time with both of my dishes for both of my practicals. But barely.

So, it’s not the timing and it’s not the dishes that’s making me nervous. It is, essentially, the fact that I would never cook in that fashion in a real-world cooking environment. Who would grab all of their mise-en-place and stack it up around their station, along with the corresponding needed equipment, and work amidst that mess in a realworld situation? I find it to be utterly discombobulating, and the quantities that we are working in feel awkward. I made ratatouille for two. It involved a quarter of a zucchini, miniscule amounts of herbs and spices, and the smallest pan in the kitchen dwarfed the amount of vegetable in the pan. The way we cook during practicals seems unnatural and the setting feels manufactured – which it is. You would never cook for someone you love or for a customer in this way.

Competitions on the Food Network have completely

glorified this way of cooking. I understand cooking in a restaurant and the need to get things done quickly, so as to get the product to the customer in a timely fashion. But when you think about it, why is it so important to cook something delicious extremely quickly? When you really think about this concept, it really is ever-so-slightly ridiculous. I understand cooking clean, containing your mess, having your mise-en-place handy and well-organized, and adhering to sanitation and food safety guidelines, but really, what is this “faster, faster!” concept all about? I like to put love into my food, and I can’t always do that when I’m moving at warp speed.

Then there was the steady stream of students coming back from their practicals saying how much easier the 5th term practical is than the 2nd term. Let me be honest with you people: No, it wasn’t. It was exactly the same. Unpleasant, rushed, anxiety-filled, no fun at all, and completely unreflective of my ability, desire, or compentency.

Nothing makes you more nervous than all of your friends passing the practical, too. Then when your turn comes, you don’t want to be the only one who doesn’t pass.

It’s painful. It’s disappointing, frustrating, it makes you doubt yourself, and you feel like people are pointing and laughing at you.

The other terrible part of this are those people who don’t get nervous and always do well, and pull off a 94 without a droplet of sweat on their brow. Worse, still, are those kitchen hacks who somehow get a 92 when they’re barely passing their classes. It feels like they’ve fooled their proctor.

I got a 79. Not horrible. Not great, either. Just average.

I was grateful for average. However, in the wake of everyone in my class doing really well, I inflated my grade when I initially told them. Then I just laughed at myself, because that is so not me to do something like that, to blatantly lie and be led by my ego. So, one night when we were all hanging out, I had a few drinks and laughingly told them the truth. They laughed at me. It was stupid. But this is what these darn practicals do to us! We put a lot of

stock in them, even if we try to act like they’re no big deal.

And the day that you take them…. Unless you find yourself taking it on a Monday when you have no other classes (as you get towards the end of your schooling here, a lot of us are Tuesday – Saturday students, with Sunday and Monday off ), you will take the practical either after class or before class. As an A.M. student, I went to class from 8am until 2pm, and then went to the practical at 3pm and was there until 9pm. That was a thirteen hour day for me. I know that this school tries to prepare you for the real world and you legitimately need that much stamina to succeed in this profession in the real world. But in a learning environment, the stressors are different. I’ll deal with the thirteen hour day, but could you please at least give us a week off for spring break? It literally would have made all the difference in the world in my preparedness, attitude, and aptitude on the day of my practical. We run balls-to-the-wall constantly at this school, and the amount of things going on in the second half of our AOS education here can be overwhelming. That thirteen hour day is a killer. Sometimes, you just need a break. We don’t get many here.

Chef Nogales was the proctor for my exam. I also heard how nice he was. This heartened me. The truth is, well, that Chef Nogales is nice. He genuinely is. However, what you need to know about this man is that he doesn’t crack a smile. So, he’s not nice in that, “Hey, everyone, you all know this stuff, you’re all going to be fine” kind of way.

He’s not facilitative. I realize that proctors should not be facilitative, but I need Mr.-Rogers-nice during a practical.

I needed someone to tell me that it was going to be okay.

Chef Nogales was a great proctor – but I needed a smile from him that day.

So, you can tell me how easy yours was if you want, and I will silently shoot daggers at you with my eyes while you tell me. I find it to be a most unnatural environment to cook in. And while I view myself as a slightly enlightened individual, the truth is, if you actually did find it to be easy, I hate you just a tiny bit.

So, the moral of the story is, practicals stink. I passed.

But practicals stink.

Blood Drive Thursday August 28th NY Blood Services will be on campus Thursday, August 28th for a Blood Drive.

The drive will be held in the Student Recreation Center’s new Multi-Purpose Room from 9:30 AM - 4:30 PM. To make an appointment please email s_haug@culinary.edu or call (845)451-1400.