Volume 35, No.12
September 26 2014
Utah Beer and Cheese Tasting
BY: Natalie Crumbaugh, AOS Culinary
I walked into Danny Kaye Theater at 9:15pm with my driver’s license and ticket in hand, ready to begin the highly anticipated beer and cheese tasting that was being hosted by the CIA Brew Club this past September 11th. At first glance, the long tables appeared to be set for a lengthy wine tasting. There were endless rows of wine glasses, and an impressive display of elegantly arranged cheeses on each plate. However, you could tell from the atmosphere that you were in for something considerably different. The excitement of something new and unique from the Brew Club could be seen on the faces of my anxiously awaiting fellow students. The five beers to be tasted that night came from Uinta Brewery (pronounced you-in-ta as in “are you in ta beer?”) based in Salt Lake City, Utah paired with cheeses prepared by CIA Alum Chef Zane Holmquist of Stein Erikson Lodge, also based in Utah. A short intro later and it was time to finally delve into a night of unique flavor combinations. Shawn Dunn, Uinta representative, kicked off the program with the first beer of the night, the Detour double IPA. With an IBU (International Bittering Units) of 95 and an ABV (Alchohol by Volume) of 9.5%, this beer definitely packed a lot of flavor in one sip. It was clearly bitter in the mouth but also contained a unique spiciness that provided a lively character to its overall flavor. To be eaten with this beer was a Gold Creek Farm’s blue cheese that had been aged 6 years and served with a walnut honey caramel on top. The fatty consistency of the cheese and slight sweetness of the caramel was the perfect way to cool down the mouth after a noteworthy spiciness left on the palate. One beer down and I could hardly keep myself from consuming the next pairing before finishing the previous. Following the Detour, we were introduced to the Baba Black Lager, a robust beer brewed in the same manner as the German Schwarzbier. Almost completely black in color, this beer had a dryer finish with hints of dark chocolate in the midst of its intense, bitter profile. To cut the strong mouthfeel of the Baba, Chef Zane paired the brew with another Gold Creek Farm product: Fasiago, a cheese blend of Asiago and cheddar, topped with a homemade bacon jam. The salty, nutty flavor of the cheese and the sweet yet savory makeup of the bacon jam was in my opinion the best bite of the night and helped break up the all-consuming power of the black lager. Moving along, Shawn Dunn brought out another dark colored beer called the Cockeyed Cooper. Being a bourbon aged barley wine, this brew had a jumpier flavor and a vanilla undertone. While delicious and seemingly harmless, be forewarned for this beer packs a whole 11.1%
AVB and should be consumed with a limit in mind. This is not your typical Sunday football beer, but certainly worth a try. The cheese to go along with the barley wine was a SeaHive Cheddar placed next to hopped bread and butter pickles. The salt and vinegar combo was a unique offset to the bourbon taste left in the mouth, but strangely, it worked. The fourth beer to taste was a lighter brew called the Tilted Smile Imperial Pilsner. A good balance between sweet and crisp, this beer had a more approachable flavor and a greater sense of versatility. That being said, it was able to pair with a stronger cheese without overpowering its presence: a TeaHive Cheddar cheese set above an apple mustarda. The cheddar was remarkably coated in an earthy ground tea rub that infused its rich, spiciness within the cheese that matched well to the heat of the mustarda. After this pairing, I could see how the Tilted Smile would be a great beer alongside a dinner of grilled meat or seafood. Finally, our last beer combination included the Hopnosh IPA, a light colored brew made with a hop from New Zealand. Unlike the previous offerings, this drink was floral, soft, and even borderline buttery or creamy. The flavors paired well with the drunken cheddar and grapre aigre-doux, which packed a peppery yet tangy punch against the smooth malt flavor of the Hopnosh. With just a few pepperdew and kalamata crisps to munch on before the end of the tasting, Dunn spoke of one last special brew we would try before the night’s end. Made in celebration of the company’s 21st birthday, the Birthday Suit Sour Farmhouse Ale could be considered the dessert beer of the evening. Acidic, sweet, and a flavor reminiscent of lemon zest, this was the perfect drink to end with after a long day. Sweet enough to appease even those who refuse to drink beer, making everyone raise their glasses in the hopes of a refill. No food pairing was
necessary for this one-of-a-kind brew. Speaking for the crowd, it’s clear the Utah Beer and Cheese Tasting was a huge success for all those involved. Not only did we have the opportunity to learn about an up-and-coming American brewery, but also Chef Zane showcased the versatility of beer in food pairing options. Just like wine, beer should be treated with respect for its applications extend beyond the casual weekend drink. The American brewing industry is rapidly transforming and as future chefs and entrepreneurs, it is our job to take notice of this change and utilize its outlets in fine dining to gain that competitive edge. Everyone should cross his or her fingers for another beer tasting soon. This was an inspiring event that you definitely did not want to miss!
P3
P 8-9
“8 Questions Culinary Student’s are Commonly Asked”
“Upcoming Events”
Photo: Courtesy of Natalie Crumbaugh
P 4-5
“Avoiding the First 25”
CENTER SPREAD
“Advice from a CIA Graduate”
P 6-7
BACK PAGE
“Grant Achatz”
P 12
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LA PAPILLOTE
Editorial
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
From the Editor’s Desk
September 26, 2014
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Connor White LAYOUT EDITOR Thiana Anderson ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS
Frank Guido Amy Zarichnak Maddy Morrison Natalie Crumbaugh Betsy Ruch Dana DeRiancho Andrew Vinegar
Deja Burrows Crystal Tan Sarah Lubitz Nico Dellenback Jeff Levine
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Connor White, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
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Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
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Last week, I was reunited with some friends of mine that I hadn’t seen in nearly six months. That group of friends and I have been together for nearly a decade; by now they are my family. When I came home from my externship, I met up with them and didn’t leave their sides for the following three days. I was cramming an entire summer’s worth of merriment into those few days, and I couldn’t have picked a better group to do it with. Ever since we were young, I took the roll as cook of the group. I’ve made countless birthday cakes, heaps of mac n cheese, grill-fulls of cookouts, and some of the best s’mores you’ve ever tasted. My friends don’t demand fine cuisine; rather they simply want some of their favorite comfort foods. I am always happy to give it to them. Seeing the reaction of good friends enjoying food that you’ve prepared just for them is simply unbeatable. Their praise and joy makes every second of work a true pleasure. I find that we culinarians often become mistaken of what good food truly is. Don’t get me wrong, I love dining at Michelin Starred restaurants just as much as all of you do. I just think that all too often we negate the quality of comfort foods simply based on their informal nature. Just because we don’t have to pay an arm and a leg for these meals, doesn’t mean that they are any less significant. As I drove up to spend the weekend with my friends, I could hardly contain my excitement. Just like any other time I come around, my friends knew that they were soon to be well fed. After settling in for the night, I noticed that their fridge was nearly empty. How could I cook with no food? That next day I decided that a trip to the grocery store was necessary. We started by shopping out all of the ingredients to make my signature mac n cheese. Not long after we started, someone had mentioned that they were craving fondue. Fondue is one of the most playful foods that there is. Between the colorful skewers, vat of chocolate, endless dippers, and friends to share it with, what is there not to like? We had talked about going to The Melting Pot to get some desserts. The problem for me was that I knew that The Melting Pot had a tendency to be a bit on the pricy side. While I am willing to pay top dollar for top quality food, I just couldn’t rationalize spending nearly $25 per head on dessert that I could make myself. In a group of college students, I wasn’t alone in trying to save an extra buck where I could. I decided that I might as
well shop out all of the ingredients to make fondue too. That night, the four of us had a feast. The rule was as always, I would cook if they do the dishes. I started with the mac n cheese. As both one of my favorite comfort foods to make, as well as one of my friends’ favorites to eat, choosing that dish was a no brainer. This is the one staple dish that my friends seem to demand for all of our get-togethers. I try to make it a bit different every time I prepare it. That way it keeps the crowd coming back for more, while keeping my mind at work. By now I have enough mac n cheese recipes to start a restaurant. There’s just something so tantalizing about a bite of creamy mac n cheese countered by the slight crunch of a crunchy topping. However, nothing beats that string of cheese that stretches from the plate to the fork. It grasps onto that bite with all of its might, so playful and entertaining. After devouring our plates of cheesy dreaminess, we were each contentedly full. After a few hours had passed, my friends and I had finally worked off our mac n cheese guts. I could tell that it would soon time for dessert. The group decided on a dark chocolate fondue with all of our favorite dippers: strawberries, mini bananas, cookies, graham crackers, rice crispy treats, Nilla Wafers, and marshmallows. I whipped up a velvety chocolate ganache and began prepping each of our dippers. Embarrassingly I must admit, I had a slight ganache fumble. I didn’t have the proper ratio of chocolate to heavy cream at first. Forgive me; I take my baking class starting tomorrow morning. After a quick search, I had managed to salvage my ganache and turn it into something rather decadent (thank you Google for keeping me from looking like a total idiot!). When I presented this fondue feast, my friends were elated. We quickly dove into the spread, mixing and matching each of our favorite dippers. As we shared the fondue, we created a memory. Boisterous laughs, battles over the last bites, and a mini food fight were really what I had ended up cooking up. At $25 total, a dinner in was clearly the smart choice. While this was no three Michelin Star cuisine, it was equally gastronomically important. Sure, mac n cheese is no groundbreaking dish. Yes, fondue may be a bit dated. You’re right, I could have put more work into the fondue dippers. However, anyone who is focusing on those criticisms has completely missed my point entirely. Good food is not necessarily the most expensive, labor intensive, or exotic creations. More often than not, you will find good food within your daily lives. It’s the moments like these that remind me how magical comfort food can be. The power of food is something that I had learned early on, and it still strikes a cord with me to this day. When we cook, we aren’t simply cooking a dish. When we feed people, we have the possibility of truly nurturing someone’s soul. I want to feed people just as I had been fed growing up, just as I’ve been blessed to do for my friends through all of these years. Perhaps it’s the nostalgia, or even more simply the child within us all that crave some sort of playfulness within our lives. There truly is no better way to share that than through food. On that day, there was no restaurant in the world that could have served us a better time. With good food and good company, we make memories one dish at a time. Happy Eating! Connor White, AOS Culinary p.s. I ate salads for the next week I swear!
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September 26, 2014
3
Food Day! Why Not at the CIA?
Delivery!
BY: Betsy Ruch, AOS Culinary
BY: Deja Burrows, AOS Culinary
More than four years ago, the Center For Science in the Public Interest decided to host an event known as Food Day. It has been celebrated every year for the last four years, with a general focus on sustainable, affordable, and healthy food. This year at The Culinary Institute of America, the Slow Foods Club invites you to become a part of the festivities. Last year food day was celebrated from coast to coast with more than 4,700 events, including farmers markets, cook-offs, and debates. Communities, churches, and colleges all came together to promote “real food” which the Food Day board defines as fresh, non-processed goods. The food day board includes influential members such as John Maleri, the Associate Director of Earth Day, and Alice Waters the founder of the Slow Foods movement. The goal is to change Americans diets and to teach them about the health benefits of natural foods, both as remedies and preventative measures. They want to raise support for sustainable organic farming and for it to be looked at as a way to reduce hunger. Every year Food Day has a specific focus, with this year’s being “food justice”. Food justice refers to the wages and working conditions of those within the food supply chain. That includes workers in farming, transportation, packaging, cooking, and selling of foods. Those that work within these areas do not receive fair wages or desirable working conditions. It is our job to bring this issue to light and to push for improvement. After all, they are providing the food we consume everyday. The Food Day Board is working along with The Food Chain Work-
BY: Andrew Vinegar, AOS Culinary
ers Alliance, which represents over 280,000 workers to bring justice and equality to them. A second but equally as important aspect of this year’s theme is to enlighten the public on the way in which media companies promote overly processed, “junk food” to children. This year’s events will target whole families and seek to educate them about the differences between “real food” and “junk food”. In a press release, Lilia Smelkova, the Director of National Food Day describes this year’s food day saying, “At thousands of Food Day events, in the news, and on social media we want to connect the dots between the food on people’s plates and their health, the environment, and the lives of the people who produce it.” In the Hyde Park area there will be several Food Day events on the 24th of October, our neighboring college, Marist, plans to celebrate with events of their own. As CIA students we are being asked to come out and help with the Hyde Park community garden in order to do our part. The garden is located at St. James Episcopal Church, not too far from campus. The Culinary Institute of America has a plot there, in which the food grown is donated to the community’s food pantry. We will need assistance in harvesting, displaying, and preparing fresh produce before and during the event. For more information, please contact Natalie Crumbaugh at (314) 6308-858 or Natalie. crumbaugh@cia.culinary.edu. With the farm-to-table movement flourishing and food costs rising, why not support organic sustainable food growers or learn to sow and reap your own produce? The food supply chain workers need you, the community needs you, and in return you need food. So Culinary students, get in on the action on October 24th for nationwide Food Day!
Many outside perspectives thinking of the students at The Culinary Institute of America would think that we are in the kitchen cooking on weekends and late nights when we are out of class. Occasionally that might be true, but we also sometimes just want someone to cook for us. So we order take out and usually that take
out is pizza delivery. If you walked around the school at night, even during the day on weekends, you would see the multiple Papa John’s and Dominoes delivery vehicles. The first question, in my experiences, I usually get is: “you are at a culinary school, why are you ordering pizza?” Well delivery person, it is because we are hungry and tired students that have been busting our butts in class day in and day out. As much as we love to cook and/or bake, we sometimes want to take the time to relax. But even with the questions that come rolling in about why we order take out and how often do you cook in the kitchen dorms, delivery service will always come to our school and know who we are by keeping our numbers on record. For example, I called Giacomo’s to order pizza and a sub the other night, and as soon as I called they knew I was from the CIA and asked what dorm building I was in. Same goes for my boyfriend, who has called Dominoes before and they know exactly who he is and what he wants when he calls. Yes, we are very passionate about food. We simply love it. So ordering from other places should not diminish that. Do not judge why we order so much pizza here, just know we will always be coming back for more.
Upcoming Events
Chili Cook-Off 2014 The 23rd Annual Chili Cook-Off and SPICE Fall Carnival Sunday, October 5, 2014 CIA Soccer Field 12:30p-4:30p The Chili Cook-Off is one of the CIA’s longest traditions. It was initiated 23 years ago by Chef Heywood and since been a staple event in the college’s fall student activities. This year 14 teams, made up of CIA students, will compete in the cook-off. Monetary prizes will be given out to First, Second, and Third Places winners, as well as those for People’s Choice and Showmanship. The judging panel will consist of Head Judge, Chef Dave McCue, along with other CIA Chefs and faculty members. Teams will prep their submitted recipe the day before and will finish the morning of. The public and student tasting is free and begins at 12:30 p.m. In collaboration with the Office of Student Activities, the student programming board SPICE will be hosting a Fall Carnival. This too is taking place on the soccer field and is again, free! Activities such as Tug-O-War, Potato Sack Race, and Corn on the Cob Eating Contest will be taking place. SPICE will be providing additional food for this collaborative event with a Corn on the Cob Bar, various cornbreads, Caramel Apples, and pies. The Fall Carnival will last from 12:30 p.m. - 4:30 p.m. Wicked Weekend 2014 It’s that time of year once again to get your “freak” on! Freaky that is! Wicked Weekend sponsored by the Office of Student Activities SPICE and Residence Life is back and better than ever! This fun-filled weekend will take place October 23-October 26. Here is this year’s schedule of activities:
Photo: Courtesy of the CIA The Rocky Horror Picture Show Thursday, October 23, 2014 Hudson Hall-Renaissance Lounge LET’S DO THE TIME WRAP AGAIN!! This cult classic will be showing in the Renaissance Lounge beginning at 9 p.m. Refreshments will be provided. Traditional show props such as rice will also be provided. Dressing up as your favorite characters is not mandatory but encouraged and welcomed. Wicked Weekend Carnival Friday, October 24, 2014 Student Recreation Center/Rosenthal Hall Halloween fun down at the SRC Parking Lot starting at 9 p.m.! Activities will include a Pumpkin Carving Contest, Haunted Trail, Pumpkin Pie Eating Contest, and crafts!
Free food and drinks will be available! Dance and Drag Show Saturday, October 25, 2014 Farq Hall Come rave it up in Farq! Get some dancing in before the show starts…Drag Show that is! The Partners in Equality sponsored Drag Show will have student performers and professional queens from the Hudson Valley! Chefs and faculty will be on hand to judge the performances! A feast of freaky food and drink will be provided to keep you energized! Halloween costumes are extremely encouraged as there will be a Costume Contest! Headless Horseman Hayride Sunday, October 26, 2014 Off Campus Stop by the Student Recreation Center Front Desk or Office of Student Activities for more information in the coming weeks. Alumni Homecoming Weekend 2014 Overlapping with the Residence Life/SPICE Wicked Weekend is the CIA Alumni Homecoming Weekend. This weekend is designed for alumni to reunite with one another and to network with other professionals from differing graduation years as well as students currently on campus. Not all of the alumni activities are open to students but below is a list of some of the activities available to students: Alumni Food Trucks Friday, October 24, 2014 St. Andrews Circle near Plaza Cafe Four Alumni and their food trucks will be setup from 7 p.m.-9 p.m. in St. Andy’s Circle. Be sure to grab cash continued on page 6...
LA PAPILLOTE
4
BY: Maddy Morrison, AOS Culinary
Avoiding the First 25
Melted warm butter poured beautifully over perfectly blanched vegetables can make anyone’s mouth water as we see it glistening in the light. As does a richly flavored cheesecake made to melt on your tongue with a creamy filling and a sweet graham cracker crust, then topped with deliciously shiny macerated strawberries. When the chef tells the culinary students that their food is under-seasoned, they are required to add more salt to the finished product. They must taste their food to ensure that their dish is just right for service. The baking students take their sugarladen desserts and other delicacies home every night they are in the kitchen, leaving them with more than enough food. During college it is easy to gain a few pounds here and there, but here at the CIA it is even easier to gain weight. The “freshmen 15” can definitely be renamed the “first 25”. At every lunch and dinner service plenty of bread and butter is offered along with Nutella. Although bread is good in moderation, it is all too common that we grab multiple packets of butter for two slices of bread or a few rolls. There is also a seemingly unlimited supply of dessert in the dining halls. As service ends the desserts get thrown away, and some of us make it a personal mission to not let any cake go to waste. Food is this school’s culture but our eating habits can easily get out of hand and unhealthily put us college students on the wrong track.
Fortunately however, there is a way to prevent the “freshmen 15” or in our case the “first 25”. Although it can easily be overlooked, during every lunch and dinner service a salad bar is readily available. This is a great side to accompany any meal, or to be simply enjoyed as an entrée. There are various salad greens, tomatoes, onions, olives, and other vegetables to add flavor and color to a salad. There are also fresh bananas, apples, and oranges offered in every production kitchen and even a vegetarian option provided in most production kitchens as well. There are healthier eating options available, but it is just difficult to notice these healthier choices when our eyes aren’t glued to a chocolate cake or a beautifully grilled burger. Currently under construction next to Rosenthal dormitory, is the CIA Student Recreation Center. Although under construction, it is still open for daily use, and offers a variety of activities to keep us young culinarians active. For those who once worked out and got out the habit, there is a boot camp class on Tuesdays. This hour-long class starts at 10:30 in a.m. at the Rec Center. It is a great way to start your day and to get back into the habit of working out. There is also a high intensity class held on Friday afternoons that also lasts an hour starting at 4 p.m. If it is difficult to make one of the classes, the cardio room and the weight room are always readily available. With the addition of the cardio room, there is more space in the weight room, allowing for a comfortable work out. In the cardio room there are rowing machines, stationary bikes, ellipticals, and treadmills. Attached to most of these
machines are interactive games, that encourage you to go farther than was originally anticipated, allowing significant progress to be made. If you feel uncomfortable in the cardio or weight room or it is simply not your forte, there are, fortunately, other ways to work out at the Rec Center. On Monday and Wednesday nights there is a Zumba class that lasts for an hour starting at 9:15 p.m. With a fun environment and fast paced movements, Zumba is a comfortable environment to get your work out in. There is also a swimming pool that is open to use allowing us to either comfortably swim, or swim for speed and agility. On Tuesday nights Taste the Rhythm Dance Club meets at 7:30 p.m. This group focuses primarily on a hip-hop dance style. With the quick steps and patient teaching, you are sure to break a sweat. Racquetball is an enjoyable sport that easily entertains. Just gather a few friends and have a blast in your own a small room that is also available at the Rec Centre. If you have a sporadic schedule but still have the desire to work out, there are group classes in the work out room Monday through Thursday at 9:15 p.m. Some are more relaxing like Yoga on Tuesdays and Thursdays while others are more upbeat like Zumba. We all are in love with food, for some of us it’s our first and foremost love. However, the “freshmen 15” can be avoided, if we the students maintain a healthy diet and regular exercise. It still doesn’t hurt to splurge on those delectable burgers and cakes every once in a while.
Now that I have returned from externship, I find myself beginning so many of my sentences with, “Well in San Francisco...” that I’m even starting to annoy myself. But I can’t help it! The Bay Area is rich with its own unique food culture and kept me so well fed, I am always eager to share those experiences with fellow foodies. The following Bay Area favorites aren’t likely to show up in a Google search and ordering them is sure to separate you from the other gaggles of tourists.
who insisted I could not call the city my home without sampling it. My first mistake was sniffing the mixture like a glass of wine, as it can kindly be described as smelling of liquorice, saffron, pine trees, and poison. But peer pressure persevered, and down the hatch it went. I don’t wish to speak too poorly of the keystone drink of my favorite city, but in the future I plan on resorting to Fernet only after all the cologne samples in my magazines have been licked dry. While surely not for the weak of heart, there is a certain sick pleasure to be gained from partaking in another people’s rituals. Downing a glass of Fernet while my friends pounded on the table around me, “Gooble gobble one of us. We accept her. One of us.”
to describe this frozen treat to others it comes off as unimpressive- just a scoop of ice cream between two oatmeal cookies that has been dipped in dark chocolate. But one of the most profound lessons I have learned is just how delicious and important simple can be. I was always careful to create the perfectly calculated last bite, which had to consist of just the right melty chocolate to ice cream ratio. A restaurant where I staged had a tradition of bringing these in for family meal, and there was a feeling of camaraderie as we enjoyed them together. This is the great power of regional foods; an ice cream sandwich is able to remind people of where they come from, who they share that space with, and what home tastes like.
Dutch Crunch While San Francisco is known worldwide for their sourdough, Dutch crunch was always my bread of choice over externship. It is a staple of all the best sandwich dive shops in the city, including Ike’s and Good Luck Cafe. In a homogenized world where Walmart sells Sriracha and sushi, it’s always exciting to discover a food that has yet to be circulated. The interior crumb is soft and white like the Wonder Bread loaves I used to sneak into my mother’s grocery cart, but what really sets this bread apart is its crackly topping. The loaf is coated with a rice flour and yeast mixture, which then splits and cracks to form a sweet, crispy crust worth scraping your mouth over. Also called “tiger rolls” due to their distinct stripes, this bread simply doesn’t seem to exist on the East Coast. If you ever find yourself in the Bay Area, this is one of the best-kept food secrets that you cannot go without trying.
It’s It Ice Cream Sandwiches What is it? It’s an It’s It! This ice cream sandwich has become available in other areas, but their tagline still boasts, “A San Francisco tradition since 1928”. When I try
Photo: Courtesy of Dana DeRiancho
BY: Dana DeRiancho, AOS Culinary
Eating Like a Local
Fernet This Italian digestif is somewhat of a San Francisco anomaly with 70% of their US sales being made in the bay. Served in a shot glass and reeking like a witch’s brew, it is intended to be sipped after a meal to aid in digestion or otherwise make its patrons appear fancy. I was coerced into ordering Fernet by my colleagues over extern,
Below: Dutch Crunch
September 26, 2014
ON CAMPUS
5
All In Good Taste
A Commentary on Life After the CIA BY: Amy Zarichnak ‘14, AOS Culinary Alumna I figured I’d write another All In Good Taste to tell you all what I’ve been up to after graduation! Then, I realized that would be a very short article. It can be summed up in one word: Nothing. Well, at least, it feels like it after the whirlwind that is culinary school. I went from busier than I’d ever been in my life, getting about 5.5 hours of sleep every night, exhausted, beat up, without a spare minute to myself, to nothing. N. O. T. H. I. N. G. The day after I graduated, a Saturday, I forced myself out of bed at 3pm and reluctantly went to a classmate’s graduation party. I got home about five hours later, went to bed, and didn’t wake up until Monday at 3pm. I had plans on Monday. I was supposed to get my haircut, go to the doctor, and help a friend move. I slept instead. And I kept sleeping. I slept until 3pm every day that week. I am an early-morning, leap-out-of-bed kind of person. Historically, at least. I slept this way almost the entire month of August. I slept 12, 13 hours a night. I couldn’t have gotten out of bed if someone had brought over a crowbar. Apparently culinary school had worn me out. After that, the motivation to find a job has been hard to summon and even more difficult to direct. If I ever had a doubt about having ADHD, it’s fair to say that I have no doubt anymore. Looking for a job goes like this: “Hmmm, let me check Facebook before I start… Well, I should probably check my Hotmail, too…” (lots of spam) “I really need to check out those shoes from that Nine West email….” (I have no money and no job) “Well, I’d better check CNN.com so I know what’s going on in the world.” And so on. Then I get hungry and have to make myself something to eat. Then, I’m trying to be healthier and drink more water, so there’s always the bathroom breaks. I honestly don’t understand how I can go from being so productive at culinary school to being such a bum these days. But the truth is, I think my 43-year-old body needed a break. I have now been going to the gym regularly – and usually before noon miraculously – and I send at least three finding-work-related emails a day. Usually. Sometimes. I have applied for numerous jobs at the CIA. Every single one of them was slightly inappropriate for me, but in the interest of having an income, I dutifully applied. I got rejected from every single one of them. I did, ironically, get a job at Marist. So I guess I’ve been looking for a job hard enough that I’ve actually succeeded at something. But given the fact that I was not looking for a cooking job and now I’ve succeeded in getting a cooking job, isn’t it clear that something is wrong here? It’s a prep cook position and it starts at $10.65/hr. This is something I would say “Seriously?” about in my previous life. However, I need the money, so I took it. It’s four ten-hour days. I let the chef know that I was going to continue to look for journalism jobs and he was completely okay with it. I mean, however will I pay my $750/mo student loans if I don’t keep looking for a real job? The truth is, though, I think after five layoffs in five years – which is what I went through right before coming to school – that my enthusiasm for a job search is just not there. I also feel like I mentally and physically need a break from the intensity of culinary school – and the stressful five years of layoffs that came right prior to that. I also realized that I was looking for “in-the-meantime jobs” – jobs that I didn’t really want, but that I felt like
Photo: Courtesy of CIA I needed to look for as I began what can be a long-term search for the perfect job. I don’t have the liberty of kicking back and searching for as long as it takes. The pressure is on getting an income, yesterday. I think I’m resisting all of this – taking a job that I won’t like or don’t want, trying to muster enthusiasm about looking for a job – yet again – and getting back to being as busy as I was at school. I’m just not ready for any of it yet. This all culminated in me interviewing with a prominent corporate company this week via video. The human resources manager is a tough cookie. He asks hard questions and has high expectations. I’m really good at doing and saying things in interviews that cause me to get hired. I’ve literally gotten almost every job for which I’ve interviewed. Though, I’ve hated almost every job that I’ve had, as well. So, there’s that. So, he asked me how I liked to be managed. I said, “I like to be trusted and empowered.” I then asked him some questions about how I would be managed, because I read on Glassdoor.com that this company has a propensity towards micromanaging. His answer was defensive and judgmental. He asked if I thought there were times when micromanaging was necessary? I finally dropped the corporate act. I couldn’t take it anymore. I finally just became me. I shrugged and said, in the friendliest tone I could muster, with a smile on my face so he knew that I wasn’t being combative, “Well, I don’t know. Do you enjoy being micromanaged?” Yes, I went there. I don’t care. I’ve answered these corporate questions so many times and always have given the politically correct, corporate-approved, no-personality answer. He sputtered back at me. I changed the subject. It got worse. He asked me how I receive criticism. I put my head down. This was a video interview. I knew that I shouldn’t put my head down. I took ten seconds to dig deep down inside me. How did I want to answer? Did I want to tell him that any time someone criticizes me, it sends me straight back to childhood, thinking that I can’t do anything right, and it just puts me completely on the defensive? Did I want to tell him how I really felt, that criticism pinches my ego so uncomfortably that it’s difficult to muster a smile at the person who’s given it to me for days afterward? Or do I tell him what I know to be true in my heart, which mimics the “corporate” answer, where I fully believe that sometimes people see
you more clearly than you see yourself, and that criticism is necessary for personal and professional growth? I took a deep breath, and looked at him with a huge smile and said, “I hate it! I hate criticism. But sometimes other people are right. You need criticism to learn. It helps with personal and professional growth. But I’m not going to lie to you and say that I don’t hate it, because I do.” This is so not the corporate answer. He wanted to hear that I viewed it as a learning opportunity, that I embrace it so that I can learn and grow and know more things about my responsibilities and the company. Anyone who mutters this knows that is exactly the answer that a corporation is looking for, and it’s such a boring answer. And it’s not valid all the time, because I have had many a manager criticize me and not be right. But I just got sick of not being myself in interviews. I got sick of getting jobs that I didn’t want and that didn’t fit me. I got sick of not telling the truth. I firmly believe the right company will embrace me, my beliefs, and what I bring to the table, as well as that tiny bit of insanity that we all have at our core. I firmly believe that I don’t belong in a corporation unless it’s progressive, ethical, enlightened, and unconventional. I understand the need to control and manage large amounts of people by writing rules down and requiring breaks and making people sign agreements. I get these things. But I’m not one of those people who enjoys attaching an ID card to my blouse or speaking politically correctly all the time (can you?!) or being forced to go by the book in every circumstance. I just can’t do it. So, I guess I blew my interview. It’s okay. I didn’t want the job anyway. I mean, I did, but I didn’t, and that’s exactly where I’ve been struggling. Maybe the reason why is, truth be told, that I feel like I need a vacation first before I start a job. I’ve taken my life down a couple of stress notches, and graduating was a huge exhale. But I need some “I made it through culinary school and the rough times in my life!” down time. I haven’t had that yet. I’ve had seven years of intense stress. I’m not sure I’m ready to walk back into the stressful atmosphere of a corporate job just yet. And I don’t think two weeks on a beach somewhere is too much to ask. But when you don’t have the money, then who do you ask? Maybe, just maybe, it’s time to start giving those corporate answers.
6
LA PAPILLOTE
CENTER SPREAD
BY: Crystal Tan, AOS Baking and Pastry
Loquat
Native to South-Eastern China, loquat is a fruit of a large evergreen shrub. Commonly, loquats are known as Chinese or Japanese plums because of its early introduction to Japan. There, the loquat has been cultivated there for over 1000 years. Since then, it has been naturalized in many other countries around the world such as India, Australia, Chile, Kenya, Central and South America, and the warmer parts of the United States. Loquats are grown commercially for fruit and also cultivated as an ornamental plant. Loquats have an unusual season with the flowers appearing in the autumn or early winter and fruits ripen in late winter or early spring. The fruits grow in clusters and are oval, rounded or pearshaped, between 3-5 centimeters long with a smooth or downy skin. The skin color can range from yellow, orange to sometimes even red-blushed. The yellow or orange flesh is juicy and crisp with a flavor that is a mix of peach, citrus, and mild mango. Inside the flesh is a cavity that contains several large brown seeds that accounts for half a loquat’s overall weight. Loquats have a high sugar, acid, and pectin content. The fruit is eaten fresh and mixes well with other fruits for fruit salads or cups. Loquats are sometimes canned, however, it has a waste ratio of 30% or more due to the large seed size. In Italy nespolino liquer is made from the seeds of loquat, and similar to apricot kernels, it contain cyanogenic glycosides. However, drinks are prepared from varieties that contain only small quantities so there is no risk of cyanide poisoning. Other uses include being
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CENTER
Photo: Courtesy of www.shockinglydelicious.com fermented into a light fruit wine, sometimes with just rock sugar and white liqueur. Loquat syrup is used in traditional Chinese medicine for soothing the throat and is a popular ingredient for cough drops. The loquat paste product acts as a demulcent and expectorant as well as a soothing agent for the digestive and respiratory system. I remember it soothing my throat when I was young. Now, I crave the sweet paste like lemon flavored cough drops. This recipe is for simple loquat liqueur, the method is very similar to umeshu (plum liqueur from Japan). Ingredients: 6 large loquats 750ml liquor (white liquor, vodka, or rum) 50g of rock sugar (preferred, but granulated can be used as well) Method: Clean loquats well, and put into a container with rock sugar and pour liquor on top. Space loquats and rock sugar evenly. Seal the container and wait for one month. Fruit liqueurs taste better with time. Ideally stored for six months before drinking.
Upcoming Events
before heading down. This is a great event to check out before walking over to the SRC for the Wicked Weekend Carnival. The featured trucks and chefs are: Cool Bus Cafe (Ed Heybruck ’74), Black Forrest Flammkuchen (Andrew Chase ’12), and The Beacon Bite ( Josh Venne ’10 and Dalton Edwards ’09). The Fourth Annual “Run For Your Knives” 5K Saturday, October 25, 2014 St. Andy’s Circle The CIA Alumni Council Chairman Robert Kabakoff ’86 and committee are proud to sponsor this health/ lifestyle event and scholarship opportunity to CIA students! This 5K is open to all CIA students and registration is free. CIA Faculty, staff, and alumni registration is $30 and will go towards the scholarship fund for students. You must register online in order to participate. Not a runner? That is fine, walkers are welcome too! At least 15 scholarships ranging from $500-$1000 will be raffled off to students who ran, walked, or volunteered in the 5K. First, second, and third place student winners will all receive a scholarship. You must be in attendance at the awards ceremony following the race in order to receive the scholarship. Scholarships are provided by CIA alumni and companies in the industry. Gift bags with other notable items like head beanies for the cold and a long sleeve race shirt will be given to each participant. Race check-in is at 7:00 a.m. and the Race will begin promptly at 8:00 a.m., at St. Andy’s Circle. This is a great opportunity to network and get active with your fellow students and industry professionals, so come on out! For more information and to register go to www.ciaalumninetwork.com/runfory-
Above: The Third Annual “Run For Your Knives” 5K, Photo Courtesy of the CIA
No Time to Waste
BY: Nico Dellenback, BPS Culinary
When I first started here I had no idea what I was in for. Each day was a new challenge. I didn’t have a lot of experience before coming here. I had spent the past four years sitting at a school desk. Finally, I was able to be in the kitchen, playing with fire and cutting stuff up. I wish the excitement remained the same as when I first arrived. Unfortunately, after a while, I think we all fall into our own routines. We forget that we are living at a Mecca of culinary exploration. Sooner than we all think we will be forced to sing the alma mater song in front of our parents. While we are up on stage struggling to find the words, how many of us will still be looking for jobs? I don’t want to move back home after I graduate. I want to get as far away from my hometown as possible. Most kids from my high school never leave after they graduate. Many don’t have much of a choice in the matter. I never wanted that. I came to culinary school because I wanted a job that would allow me to travel. After I graduate I have decided to find a job abroad. My first choices are Paris, London, Bangkok, Singapore, Havana, Prague, Istanbul, Constantinople, or even Azerbaijan. Ultimately however, I don’t care where I go. I don’t care if I am washing dishes for 60 hours a week. I am going to make this happen. I have nine months until I graduate. We are lucky enough here at school to have an entire department dedicated to helping us find jobs. I visited career services and told them what I wanted to do. The first step is to polish the resume. I am going to some club meetings, looking for some part time work, and trying to embellish as much as I can. It can take up to six months to get a work visa. There are some programs that will help you find an intern position and a work visa. Some large hotel companies offer positions overseas after a certain amount of time employed. There are a lot of options for people who are interested, but it takes time to plan. I suggest to anyone interested, start planning now. There is no time to waste. I want to see the figs and pears crafted from marzipan in Sicily, drink an afternoon tea in Hong Kong, taste some Whisky in Islay, walk through the markets in Cuzco, pick olives in Crete, and watch the annual saffron harvest in La Mancha. I want to do all of this and much more. Food is what brings people together. It’s what connects me to the vanilla farmers on Madagascar and the lobster fishermen in Maine. I had no idea of all the possibilities that were in store for me when I first arrived at school. There is no doubt that whatever happens, I owe it all to the time that I spend here as a student at The Culinary Institute of America.
September 26, 2014
7
SPREAD
Advice from a CIA Graduate
BY: Sarah Lubitz, AOS Culinary
My boss back home is one cool dude. Pete Blohme, who graduated from The Culinary in 1986, is the owner of Panini Pete’s Café & Bakeshoppe in Fairhope and Mobile, Alabama. To this day he remains actively involved at CIA. If you come out to the 5K during homecoming, you will see him. Speaking of seeing Pete, you may have spotted him with Guy Fieri on Diners, Drive Ins, and Dives; he’s a busy guy. Pete is in the process of opening his third restaurant right now in Fairhope. It will be more upscale, but still casual. As for Panini Pete’s, it’s all about breakfast and lunch: great paninis, burgers, beignets (we’re famous for them!), and desserts. Pete is a gentle giant, and is someone that I’m incredibly honored to have as a mentor. So, when I thought about interviewing someone, I naturally thought of him. When I called him up, he was in deep at the new location talking to contractors. Here’s what followed: Sarah: Didn’t mean to catch you at a bad time! Pete: No, you’re good. Fun stuff, fun stuff. It goes like this all day. [Laughs] We’ve got a lot of stuff going on. It’s crazy! It’s crazy, babe! So, what’s happening? Whatcha got? Sarah: So, I have some questions about your time here at CIA and about your life since then. Let’s start. What advice would you give to current students about getting the most out of being here? Pete: I think the most important thing is just for life in general – shut your mouth and open your ears. Occasionally you hear – you know, I’ve been out of school for almost 30 years now – throughout the years, you hear about these ups and downs. You hear the current study body belly aching, saying, “it’s changing”, and we’re getting negative about stuff and focusing on the wrong things instead of saying, “I’m here, I’m committed. I need to focus on learning as much as I can here.” Because, you know, you’re investing in yourself with that money. It’s not like, “Hey, I’m paying you guys. Teach me! Teach me! Get up there and dance on the table top because I’m paying you.” You’re making a large investment in your future, and you need to go out there and think more of that, and just go out there and suck up as much good information as you can, and get as much as experience as you can. At the same time, you know, develop relationships with your co-students and chefs. That way when you’re out in the industry, you’re going to have a lot of questions, it’s always good to have somebody that you can call for advice because they’ve been there. Don’t focus on what’s wrong with this or what’s wrong with that, because life is life, and the industry can be a whole lot tougher than school. You’ve got to be prepared to deal with that in a really positive way. Focus on your education, and focus on being a badass, go into the industry, keep moving things forward. Sarah: I feel like a lot of people here will be surprised when they go out on extern. What are your thoughts on that? Pete: It’s a fun business, but it’s not a glamorous business. The celebrity chef era has changed not only the way the public sees us, but also the way that people who get into the industry perceive jobs and the profession. It’s still very hard-working and labor driven – nights, weekends, holidays – there are a lot of sacrifices, there’s a lot involved with it. It’s fun, I love it, and I wouldn’t do anything else, but, you know, is it glamorous? Not really. [Laughs] It’s
not. But, it’s a great job, and it’s fun to feed people and get them excited. We need leaders. We need innovators that have that foundation. Sarah: So, I know about your involvement with the troops, and that’s something I want to highlight. Tell me more about Messlords. Pete: Food is a vehicle that can certainly change your life, and one thing good about this industry is there are opportunities everywhere. You know, where you want to work, what city, what country – if you’re willing to work hard, and you have a good foundation, it can take you a lot of places. The most unexpected place it took me was working with Navy Entertainment and feeding our US troops. It all kind of evolved from just, we got some sizzle with the Food Network, and we got exposure for Panini Pete’s through TV, which kind of gets you a little bit of crossover into that celebrity chef genre, like it or not. In this era of food, nutrition, and also the celebrity aspect of it, the Navy kind of came up with an idea to go out and entertain the troops and boost the morale. The Navy has a lot of programs to keep morale up with the troops. Those guys are stationed all over the world. They’re away from family, they’re away from their loved ones, some of them are there for a long time, and some of them don’t make it back. The Navy brings out entertainment to boost morale. Messlords is a part of a wave of bringing out chefs. We do some signature meals, cook some really good food, and just bring them some love from home. We spend some time in the galley teaching, going out to the chow line; we might even go out and buy them a beer from the pub. It’s been very, very humbling, enriching, and enlightening. We’ve been doing it for years now. I can’t believe, like I said, where I’ve been. I’ve been to Japan a couple of times, I’ve been to Guam a couple times, Africa, Bahrain, Cuba, Puerto Rico, Spain, Italy, United Kingdom, The Netherlands, Belgium. I’ve been out on three different carriers, landed on carrier decks, and catapulted onto decks. It’s been an unbelievable experience. The bottom line is that food has taken me there. We volunteer our time, and we just go out and rock it. Sarah: Are there any classes that you felt like were more helpful once you got out of school and were cooking in the industry? Pete: It’s like anything else, the foundation is SO STRONG, and you don’t really realize it sometimes. You know, it’s like when you’re mentoring young chefs, and you’ll tell them things that they don’t understand, or that they may not relate to. Then, seven years down the road, they’ll be in a situation and they’ll go, “Wow, this is what he was talking about.” It’s that same kind of thing with any classes that you’re taking. Back then, charcuterie was part of the core curriculum, and then, even though that trend has now come back strong, for a long time, that wasn’t a popular thing. You’re thinking, “Jeez, what’s the big deal about, you know, charcuterie?” You don’t think of yourself doing it, and then you’re out there making sausages and curing meat. At the time, you really knew that, in some point in your career, it was going to come up. Whether it’s a new trend or an old trend, you really have to pay attention to everything. Right now, I’m trying to build a company, I’m getting ready to open my third restaurant, I’m getting more back to the basics. I’m going back in and re-reading a lot of my costing stuff, food, beverage, labor cost control, and looking at my job now. It’s not just ensuring hospitality and good food, it’s also developing managers who can learn the business well. So, I would say, you know, there are certain instructors that really stand out, that you remember, that you had a great relationship with, or maybe they were great at what they
Photo: mobilebaymag.com taught, or maybe…you didn’t like them. [Laughs] I don’t know if there was one class that stood out more than the other and been like, “Wow, this one has been really useful for me,” because they really all have been. I feel like that that solid foundation that you get at CIA prepares you to take on anything. You know, there are a lot of times when I don’t cook, but there’s that sense that I know I can cook anything because I have that foundation. Sarah: You opened Panini Pete’s in 2006, right? Pete: Yeah, the opening date was February 2006. It was 20 years and one week to the day that I graduated from CIA. I tried to make it 20 years on the dot! I was a slow learner; it took me 20 years to open my own place. What made it successful was that drive. To say, “Hey, I don’t wanna be like everybody else,” and to go into that niche just doing breakfast and lunch, and say, “We’re gonna kick ass. We’re gonna roast our own meats, make our mozzarella, our own aioli, fresh cut fries and chips.” It’s not 100% making every single thing in the building from scratch, but it’s as much as we can possibly do to make it feasible and functional yet still be able to put out an amazing product. It’s all about quality. Sarah: What else do you want students to know? Pete: I mean, I think the biggest thing that I want to share with the current students is to learn the practice of paying it forward. As you move up in your career, the education you receive at the CIA should be preparing you to go on to continue to grow your foundation. Then use that to become leaders in the industry. You’re going to be able to bring people up, help educate, and to help the next wave of culinary professionals from within the industry and from the CIA. I think it’s very important to look and see how you can stay involved and how you can give back to the school. Not only did that education prepare you to go out and make a living, but you have to protect the brand. If the CIA goes south, and it’s not the premier culinary school, then it doesn’t lessen my ability as a chef, but it lessens my credibility as a CIA grad. That’s why I try to give back whenever I can. You get that letter to donate in the mail and think, “Didn’t they get enough of my money?” It’s important that as you mature as a business owner, operator, or as an executive chef. You quickly realize the importance of that legacy. Learn to give back, learn to share, learn to pay it forward, and learn to know people. Ultimately, your long-term success is going to be measured by how many people you can help become successful. I’m proud, and the CIA has given me a lot of opportunities.
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Sports
LA PAPILLOTE
Soccer
No. Name Ht. Yr. Hometown/High School 1 Jonathan Bedell 5’11” So. Naperville, IL/Naperville Central High School 2 Michael Grueter 6’1” So. San Diego, CA/Lexington High School 3 Stefano Schiaffino 5’6” So. Lima Peru/Cambridge College 4 Dominick DiLallo 5’6” Fr. Breckenridge, CO/Summit High School 5 Hugo Tapia 5’6” Fr. Highland Falls, NY/James O’Neil High School 6 John Chamorro 5’7” So. Sevilla, Columbia/John Jay High School 7 Dan Landon 6’0” So. Johnsburgh, IL/Johnsburg, High School 8 Marcus Prioste 5’11” So. Menlo Park, CA/St. Francis High School 9 Jeremy Segarra 5’7” Jr. Wappingers Falls, NY/Roy C Ketcham High School 11 Ivan Gonzalez-Tucker 5’6” Jr. Houston, TX/Seven Lakes High School 12 Eric Hamway 5’9” Jr. Columbia, NJ/N. Warren Regional High School 13 Dylan Soro 5’10” So. Temecula, CA/Troy Athens High School 14 Jose Castellanos 5’10” So. Queens, NY/Cathedral Prep High School 15 Collin Pawlak 5’10” Jr. Wincherden, MA/Murdock High School 16 Kenneth Bernardi 5’11” So. Barranquilla Colombia/William T Mcfatter 17 Jacob Aronson 6’1” Fr. Bayport MN/Stillwater High School 18 Zeth Current 5’8” Carlisle, PA/Seoul America High School 19 Nathan Gutcher 6’2” So. Lynn Haven, FL/Mosley High School 20 Georges Greiche 6’1” Fr. Mont-Royal, Canada/Selwyn House School 21 Andrew Lynch 5’11” Fr. North Haven, CT/North Haven High School 23 Michael Eckles 5’6” Fr. Bloomfield Hills, MI/Lahser High School 24 Jose Sabogal 5’6” Fr. Chantilly, VA/Chantilly High School 25 Corte Allen 5’10” So. Staunton, VA/Riverheads High School 26 Karan Thakker 5’10” So. Koramengala, India/VSA 27 Joseph Bosco 5’8” Jr. Waterbury, CT/Chase Collegiate
Volleyball
No. Name Ht. Yr. Hometown/High School 3 Sasha Brown 5’2” Fr. Allendale, NJ/N. Highlands High School 6 Emily Brown 5’6” So. Clarence, NY/Clarence Central 7 Dakota Albury 5’9” So. Irvine, CA/Creekside High School 9 Kelsey Willis 5’6” Fr. Hollywood, MD/Leonardtown High School 11 Jamie Borza 5’4” So. Benezette, PA/Cedar Cliff 12 Marcela Andonie 5’9” Fr. San Pedro Sula, Honduras/Escuela Int. 13 Erin Haldeman 5’5” Fr. Baldwin, MD/Dulaney High School 14 Micaela Campbell 6’1” So. San Antonio, TX/Johnson High School 15 Alexia Ayala 6’0” Jr. Oxnard, CA/Pacifica High School 16 Amber Crigler 5’3” So. Coden, AL/St. Lukes High School 18 Thiana Anderson 5’7” Fr. Stanfordville, NY/Stissing Mt. High School
Coach Chris Lyn Coach Lyn brings significant youth, club, and collegiate coaching experience to the CIA. He is a 1995 graduate of the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill with a BA in history. A native of Long Island, NY, Chris played soccer collegiately at UNC, serving as captain of the team his senior season. He has held assistant coaching positions at NCAA Division I schools Iona College and Columbia University, and served a four-year stint as head coach of the women’s team at Molloy College of Long Island. He was most recently a volunteer assistant coach with the Marist College women’s soccer team. This is his second season as head coach.
Coach Jamie Floryan
Jamie Floryan is in her fourth season as the head volleyball coach for the CIA’s women’s team at the intercollegiate level. Coach Floryan has been playing volleyball for more than half her life, starting with summer camps at the age of 12 and then competing on club teams throughout New England. She played throughout high school and continued her volleyball career as an opposite at Dutchess Community College, where she was selected to the Division III 1st Team, the All-Conference 2nd Team, and the All-Tournament Team at the Region XI Divison III Championships. After winning the Division III Region Championship, she played at the NJCAA National Volleyball Championship, where her team was ranked among the top 10 junior college teams in the country. Coach Floryan finished her last two seasons of college volleyball for the Western Connecticut State Colonials in the Little East Conference and played in an international tournament hosted in Barbados in 2008.
Photo: Courtesy of the CIA Volleyball Team
Men’s Cross Country Name Yr. Orel Anbar Jr. Grant Rico Jr. Jason Sedgwick Sr. Nick Santos So. Rene Lopez So. Sean Dodds So. Alejandro Tress So. Francisco Bautista So. Dan Pelles So.
Cross Country Women’s Cross Country
Name Yr. Alex Rotenstreich Fr. Chynna Gonzales So. Angela Riccinich Fr. Olivia Jose Fr. Cheyenne Boinais Fr. Ellie Cramton Fr.
Photo: Courtesy of the CIA
Coach Mike Murphy Coach Mike Murphy is currently in his second year as the head cross country coach. Coach Murphy was the assistant coach to Lowell Fisher the past five years and brings significant collegiate coaching experience to his new role. A staff member at the CIA since 1999, he is currently senior coordinator—fitness & intramural sports at the college. Previously, Mike served for eight fall seasons as the head coach for the CIA’s men’s soccer team. Mike has competed in three New York City Marathons and participates in many of the local 5K and 10K road races and triathlons in the Hudson Valley. With his running and fitness background, Coach Mike motivates students to reach far beyond their potential and find athletic and personal success here at the CIA.
September 26, 2014
9
The solution will be in the next issue.
Courtesy of http://www.climercomics.com
The New York Times Dining Section Features More Than 20 Grads
BY: Jeff Levine, Contributor
The New York Times “Dining” section for the first week in September is arguably the most important of the year because it typically focuses on the new and important restaurants that will be opening in the prime season leading up to the holidays. This year’s section featured 22 CIA alumni. It starts with a front-page story about Enrique Olvera, who earned a bachelor’s degree in management from the CIA in 1999. The article refers to Chef Olvera as an “innovator” and “one of the world’s most respected kitchen auteurs.” Olvera is getting set to open Cosme in Manhattan’s Flatiron District, with several fellow CIA bachelor’s degree alumni on his leadership team, including manager Gonzalo Gout ’12. Another feature article, “Charlie Palmer Rethinks His Empire,” is all about CIA Chairman of the Board Charlie
Palmer ’79 and his plans for several new restaurants in New York City. The restaurant review for the issue was of Bar Primi, the new restaurant from Andrew Carmellini ’91. “There is No Secondi Choice” is the title of the positive review by restaurant critic Pete Wells. Then a whopping 17 grads were included in the sampling of new restaurants and the people behind them by Florence Fabricant in “A Tip Sheet for a Season of Surprises:”
• • • • •
Franklin Becker ’93 Ed Brown ’83 PJ Calapa ’05 Mario Carbone ’00 Andrew Carmellini ’91
• • • • • • • • • • • •
Shea Gallante ’97 Bobby Hellen ’04 Linton Hopkins ’95 George Mendes ’92. Ivan Orkin ’93 Enrique Olvera ’99 (Bachelor’s) Charlie Palmer ’79 Alex Stupak ’00 Dale Talde ’98 Rich Torrisi ’01 (Bachelor’s) Geoffrey Zakarian ’83 Galen Zamarra ’95
Also mentioned in other articles in the Times’ September 3 Dining section are Greg Boehm ’79, Bill Telepan ’87, Alfred Portale ’81, Harold Moore ’97, and Roy Choi ’98.
Eight Question’s Culinary Students are Commonly Asked and What We Really Want to Respond With
BY: Frank Guido, AOS Culinary
1. “What is your favorite thing to cook?” My favorite thing to cook is whatever I’m told to cook! At this point in our careers it doesn’t matter what we want to make, it’s what we are told to make. Personally I love the environment of a kitchen and the process of creating food. We all love to make that one thing that brings us to our happy place. What ever that is can change and be different for everyone. 2. “Will you come cook for me?” No. Frankly, I cook all day everyday with a very limited time off. I do not want to spend that time cooking. I want to spend that time sleeping or relaxing. If I do cook for someone it’s only because I’m hoping to maybe form a… relationship of some sort. Yes I love cooking but my days off and few holidays that I have free are not reserved for making others happy, but instead for making myself happy.
for the work you do everyday. If you don’t maintain your passion and love for this career, then you will fall through the cracks. So to answer that question, yes I love it. 4. “What is your specialty?” At this point of my career my specialty is doing what I’m told when I’m told to do it. It’s a lot like being a parrot, trained to do exactly as you were shown. There is no room for anything else to happen. When you get the chance to be the boss, then that is when you can choose the style you want to have. I was to tell you that I specialized in Modern American Regional Cuisine, than you would look at me like I had three heads anyway.
3. “Do you love it?” No… I spend time in a scorching hot, humid, and cramped space providing your food for you so that it’s perfect. You have to love this job. You have to have passion
6. “When will you be on the Food Network?” I will be on Food Network the day the producers come to their senses and see how lucrative my beauty and charming wit will be for them. Maybe I could be the new
5. “Did you see that last episode of (insert tacky culinary series here)?” I must not have been able to catch that episode because of the fact I was in the kitchen at the end of my ten-hour shift, slaving over a hot stove. The hours that most culinarians work are not exactly conducive to catching prime time television. However, I do binge watch Grey’s Anatomy and scream at Chopped contestants over their poor use of a mystery ingredient.
face for Chobani or even Frosted Flakes. In all actuality, if an opportunity arrived to be a part of Food Network I would have no problem taking the job. Celebrity chefs are often refereed to as sell outs but honestly I cant see anything wrong with being yogurt boy or the host of a tacky t.v. show with the name something like “Pasta, Pizza, and Paisan’s”. So to answer your question, I give it about 4 years before you see this beautiful face on mid-day Food Network… ten years until I’m on your yogurt cup. 7. “Do you have any good recipes for…” If I had a good recipe for anything, what makes you think you are worthy of obtaining my hard work? Chefs are inherently stingy and secretive about their recipes and for good reason! Recipes are something that have meaning to us. If a chef were to easily give up their recipe to you they either lied to you or they stole it from someone else and don’t care. 8. “What is your major?” As a culinary student I think that the people on the outside have a false sense of what really goes on. My major is Culinary Arts. No I do not choose my classes, yes my classes take part in a kitchen. My major isn’t Asian cuisine, or Latin America. It is the study of Culinary Arts and how to be the best in my field.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduation Speaker: Franklin Becker ’93 Franklin Becker is the chef/owner of The Little Beet, a popular gluten-free take-out spot in Manhattan, where he offers his wholesome cooking style on a larger scale with the hopes of turning healthy eating into a way of life. He is currently developing a café version of The Little Beet, as well as a new fine-dining restaurant, Cast Iron. Born and raised in Brooklyn, NY, Chef Becker has been focused on food since he was a child helping his mother cook. He began working in a professional kitchen at the age of 14, and throughout high school and college, spent all of his free time cooking. After graduating from Brooklyn College with a bachelor’s degree, he decided to attend the prestigious Culinary Institute of America, from which he earned his associate degree in culinary arts with honors. His first job after graduation was with Bobby Flay at Mesa Grill. Chef Becker’s culinary career has also included cooking for Ronald Perelman as the Revlon magnate’s personal chef; working as executive chef for fine restaurants such as as New York City’s Locale, Capitale, and Brasserie; and serving as the corporate chef of EMM Group, where he oversaw menus for Abe & Arthur’s, Catch, and Lexington Brass. He was also chef at the Tribeca Grand Hotel and consulting chef for Delicatessen in the Soho Grand Hotel, both in Lower Manhattan.
In 1997, at the age of 27, Chef Becker was diagnosed with type 2 diabetes. Rather than despair, he transformed his cooking style to use simple ingredients to create dazzling dishes that are both healthy and flavorful. His three cookbooks—Eat & Beat Diabetes, The Diabetic Chef, and Good Fat Cooking—all reflect his approach to great cooking and eating. Chef Becker’s many professional accomplishments and accolades include winning The Burger Bash at the New York City Wine & Food Festival in 2011, being named a Rising Star by StarChefs.com in 2006, and helping Capitale to earn Esquire magazine Best New Restaurant honors in 2003 as its executive chef. One of his most important roles is as a tireless advocate for autism awareness, a cause close to his heart, as one of his sons is on the autism spectrum. Chef Becker is one of the founders and co-chairs of Autism Speaks to Wall Street, a hugely successful celebrity chef gala that raises awareness about the condition as well as funds for the not-for-profit Autism Speaks.
AOS Graduating Class of September 26, 2014
Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Lakima Thorne, Maria Serrano, Tram Vu, Kristal Rosero, Vincent Wu, Chris Jaehyuk Jeong Back Row: Zachary Theriault, Jinho An, Maria Rivera, Donggun Kim, Hongkeun Lim, Seungkyu Lee, Moses Fishman
Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Angela Queja, Brittania Klinker, Joshua Dunson, Melanie Delcourt, Amy Green, Miranda Garza, Jason Lui, Paige Heckman Back Row: Adrian Patron, Gabriella Rodriguez, Yongbin Ihn, Kyung Hwan Kim, Tiffany Burton, Matthias Maihoefer
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Leonard Cheung, DyAnne Iandoli, Katie Sanchez, Gabrielle Koscick, Andrea Locorini, Jordan Lanier Back Row: Christopher Vick, Alberto Jimenez, Michael Butigian, Nicholas Boldrer, Jesse Hansen, Keenan Goodwin, Alexander Fiacchi
Baking & Pastry
Front Row: Ye-shin Tsumagari, Shahida Amir, Ashley Rush, Katelynn Deluca, Morgan Phillips, Carlie Diette, Analee Paprocki, Saigay Sheriff Back Row: AlexLynn Marrone, LeeAnn Corrao, Emily Adams, Stephanie Guillou, Emma Kreis, Jacquelyn Obert, Stephanie Salcito, Christy-Jae Cheyne
September 26, 2014
Events
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September 28, 2014-October 18, 2014 Sunday
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10am- Taste the Rhythm Dance Club 1pm- Soccer-Away 1pm- Volleyball-Away
10am-Taste the Rhythm Dance Club 12pm-Chili Cook Off
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12
10am-Taste the Rhythm Dance Club 1pm-Volleyball-Home
Monday
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9:15pm- La Papillote 9:15pm- Culinary Christian Fellowship
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9:15pm-Culinary Christian Fellowship 9:15pm-CIA Paintball Coalition
9:15pm-Culinary 13 Christian Fellowship
Tuesday
Wednesday
Thursday
7pm- Taste the Rhythm Dance Club 9:15pm-Culinary Notes 9:15pm-Veterans Association & Auxiliary
4:30pm-CHOP’T 1 9:15pm-Bacchus Wine Society 9:15pm-Public SGA 9:15pm-Gay Straight Alliance Club 9:15pm- The Word Poetry Club
7pm-Taste the Rhythm 7 Dance Club 8:45pm-Korean Association 9pm-Culinarians Against Cancer 9:15pm-Veterans Assoc. 9:15pm-Slow Food
9:15pm-Bacchus Wine Society 9:15pm-Gay Straight Alliance Club 9:15pm- The Word Poetry Club
9pm-SPICE 9:15pm-Black Culinarian Society 9:15pm- Guild of Tea
9:15pm-Bacchus 15 Wine Society 9:15pm-Public SGA 9:15pm-Gay Straight Alliance Club 9:15pm- The Word Poetry Club
16 9pm-SPICE 9:15pm-Black Culinarian Society 9:15pm- Guild of Tea
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14 7pm-Eta Sigma Delta 7pm-Taste the Rhythm Dance Club 9:15pm-Culinary Notes 9:15pm-Veterans Assoc.
-Taste the Rhythm Dance Club- SRC, Group Fitness Room -Culinary Christian Fellowship- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -Culinary Notes- SRC, Multipurpose Room (East) -Veterans Association & Auxiliary- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -CHOP’T- SRC Pool Lounge
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2
9pm-SPICE 9:15pm-Black Culinarian Society 9:15pm- Guild of Tea
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Club Meeting Locations
-Bacchus Wine Society- Wine Spectator Classroom -Public SGA Meetings- SRC, Multipurpose Room -Gay Straight Alliance Club- Pick Lounge -The Word Poetry Club- SRC Pool Lounge -SPICE- SRC Conference Room -Black Culinarian Society- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -Guild of Tea- Admissions EcoLab Theater
Friday
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Saturday
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11 11am-Crown Maple Trip 1pm-Soccer-Away
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10am-AOS Graduation
1pm-Soccer-Away
-CIA Paintball Coalition- SRC, Multipurpose Room (East) -Korean Association- Wine Spectator Classroom -Culinarians Against Cancer- Admissions EcoLab Theater -Slow Food- Anheuser Busch Theater -Eta Sigma Delta- Admissions EcoLab Theater -La Papillote- SRC Conference Room
Hours of Operation Conrad N. Hilton Library Library Hours: Monday-Thursday: 7:00am-11:00pm Friday: 7:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Video Center Hours: Monday-Thursday: 8:30am-10:00pm Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm Library Learning Commons: Monday-Thursday: 8:00am-11:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Campus Store Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00am-6:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Student Recreation Center Monday-Thursday: 7:00am-Midnight Friday: 7:00am-10:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:00pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm Pool Hours Monday-Thursday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-10:00pm Friday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-7:00pm Saturday & Sunday: Noon-7:00pm
Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends) Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am-5:30pm
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10am-Cross CountryAway 1pm-Volleyball-Away 1pm-Soccer-Home
Plaza Cafe (Courtside) Monday-Thursday: 11:00am-11:00pm Friday: 11:00am-10:30pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:30pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
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Grant Achatz:
BY: Connor White, AOS Culinary
Redef ining the Possibilities of Cuisine
This past summer, I was lucky enough to have dinner at the Three Michelin Starred restaurant, Alinea. Head Chef and Owner Grant Achatz, a ’94 graduate of The Culinary Institute of America, opened this Chicago restaurant with his business partner and CoOwner Nick Kokonas in 2005. In 2005, Grant Achatz teamed up with Nick Kokonas to open Alinea in Chicago’s Lincoln Park neighborhood. The name “Alinea” came from the name of the paragraph indent symbol (¶), a representation of how their style was off the beaten path. As Alinea’s Owner, Grant Achatz’s goal was to show off his own style of cuisine without fear or hesitation. After learning so much about Grant Achatz during my first year at CIA, I knew that Alinea would be one restaurant that I just had to try. I had my heart set on it. Once I had gotten my externship in Chicago, I knew that this would be my chance. I immediately started saving for my ticket, knowing that this meal would not be cheap. However, I had no issue coughing up the money for this meal experience. As a culinary student, it is essential to explore the culinary world around us. There is so much to learn from dining at such established restaurants. My next step was to learn everything that I could about Grant Achatz before my meal. The more information that I had, the better I would understand what it was that he was trying to accomplish during my own experience. The first that thing I did was purchase Life on the Line, a collaborative book written by Grant Achatz and Nick Kokonas. Everyday on my way to and from work, I would read Life on the Line. This dual narrative told the story of how Alinea came to be, especially in spite of life’s unexpected obstacles. In the midst of Alinea’s rising success, Grant Achatz’s life came crumbling down. In 2007, he was diagnosed with Stage 4 cancer that started in his tongue. At the peak of his career, it became clear to everyone that his life may be coming to a close. Doctors told him that his only chance of survival was if he had surgery to remove his both tongue and a portion of his jaw. After all hope was lost, one doctor approached him with a slightly different plan. This plan would maximize his chances of maintaining his tongue and jaw, while still getting rid of the cancer. However, the cancer had made its mark, leaving Grant without a sense of taste for nearly a year. After a few rounds of chemotherapy and surgery, Achatz miraculously made a recovery and was later deemed cancer free. Slowly, his sense of taste started to return, making for a reintroduction of flavor to Grant Achatz. About a month after I finished his book, my externship site announced that we would be having a work party at The Aviary, one of Achatz’s newer restaurants. The Aviary takes all of the innovation and refinement of Alinea, and applies it to a cocktail bar setting. Drinks were served from everything from casks billowing with smoke to Styrofoam cups with bendy straws. At The Aviary, the bartender’s approach to cocktails is much like a chef ’s approach to dishes. They take extreme care into creating innovative and complex drinks. Drinks are served in set order, as opposed to à la carte, creating a tasting menu style service. As someone who is not yet of age to drink, I must admit that I felt like going to The Aviary would end up being just a tease. However, once I informed the servers that I couldn’t have the alcohol, they let me know that all of the drinks could be served nonalcoholic too. I was thrilled to hear that I could take part in the main event. While The Aviary’s main focus on was its drinks, they did serve hors d’oeuvres as an accompaniment. Small bites such as BBQ Chicharrónes and Fois Gras Snickers kept us satisfied as we slurped down every last drop of our cocktails. With each taste, I became a bigger and bigger fan. As my time in Chicago was coming to a close, I knew that it was time to make my reservation. With a month’s notice, I purchased my ticket and made my reservation for 9:30 on a Saturday night. I became more and more anxious as the days came closer to my reservation. When the day finally came, I could hardly contain my excite-
ment. Dressed to the nines, I made my way into Lincoln Park for dinner. When I got to the address, I was a bit confused as to how to find my way inside. The location that I had been taken to was a secretive, black, unmarked building. Remembering Alinea’s unusual nature, I marched into the door and found myself in a plain white hallway. Jutting off of the hallway, a motion censored wall opened up to reveal the grandeur that was Alinea. There was no doubt that this was where I was supposed to be. I could tell that I was in for a show, and immediately I was greeted by a welcoming host and taken to my seat. When I arrived, I began to notice many things that had been called out while I had read Life on the Line. One major difference with Alinea was the lack of tablecloths. This was a rebellion of sorts. Grant Achatz’s intention for Alinea was not for it to be just another cramped and stuffy, white tablecloth restaurant. Instead, diners were spread out and seated in comfortable seats at bare dark wood tables. This provided a perfectly simplistic background for the dishes to come. As I waited for my first course, I began to further understand the mood of the room. Waiters entertained the room with their sarcastic banter and diners laughed at jokes that were made from across the room. It was a very communal experience that felt as if we were enjoying our show together, as opposed to individual closed-off experiences. Then came the food. One of my first courses was a large wreath of kiwi branches. Entangled into the wreath was a strip of salsify jerky. The concept was for the diners to search for the camouflaged jerky as a game. With my mind set on the game, I searched for the jerky. However, after a minute of search the waiter came to the rescue, playing hot and cold with me until I found the salsify. Together we laughed and marveled at the humorous interaction between the diners and their food. Fast forward six courses, and the orange “chicken” takeout was served. Mouthwatering sweetbreads were served in a Chinese takeout container wrapped in a classic plastic “Thank You” bag. To eat this dish, you used long
cinnamon stick chopsticks that were smoldering at the ends. The smoldering cinnamon created a robust aroma that complimented the flavor of the dish itself. By the time I was half way through, I was beginning to worry that I was becoming too full. Even though the portions were incredibly small, there were still 20 courses. No matter how small each course was, that is a lot of food. However, I proceeded on without hesitation. I wasn’t going to waste a single bite of this life changing food. Toward the end of the meal one of Alinea’s signature dishes was served, though there was no dish at all involved with this course. The green apple balloon came to my table. All night I had witnessed diners around me enjoying this dish, laughing gleefully at their squeaking voices. Now it was my turn. The balloon was constructed of helium filled green apple taffy attached to an apple leather string. The diners were to kiss the balloon, suck up the helium, and, in all honesty, make a scene. The entire dining room filled with laughter each time this course was brought out to a table. Of the entire night’s menu, this course was the one that truly instilled a sense of togetherness. The green apple balloon was a showstopper each and every time. For the grand finale, one of the chefs came out of the kitchen to plate your final course in front of you. First they rolled out a large rubber mat on your table and began their plating directly onto it. First, chocolate torte was poured into a ring mold to allow it to set. Spoons of violet sauce swept around it, changing in color and shape along the way. Both, hazelnut and pâté sucrée added a contrasting crunch to the velvety texture of the torte. Violet glitter dusted the table, providing a sparkle to this culinary artwork. A dance so spectacular it left me speechless. Look up a video on this final dessert, it doesn’t disappoint. When my meal came to a close, I began to make my way back home. The entire experience was astounding. On my way back, I must admit I was rather emotional. Aware of Grant Achatz’s inspirational story, it was clear how his experiences enhanced his own cuisine, as opposed to hindering it. The experience was perfection, something here at CIA that we strive for daily. As my first Three Michelin Star dining experience, Alinea redefined the possibilities of cuisine. As a Culinary Institute of America graduate, Grant Achatz serves as a reminder to us students that with passion for innovation, we could be next. Grant Achatz’s books are available for purchase at the CIA Bookstore.
Photos: Courtesy of Connor White