2014 11 25 final

Volume 35, No.15

November 25 2014

Bringing Life to the Basics

BY: Katie Fenton, BPS Culinary

Beginning in Fundies, we are taught the basics. We memorize ratios, and we write the recipes down on index cards to fit in the front pockets of our chef coats. But once we’re out of here, those ratios and recipes will mean nothing if we don’t add a piece of us into it, that little spin that turns something “by the book” into a whole new dish. It adds our vision and our passion into the final product, and whoever’s eating it will surely appreciate it. Bryan Voltaggio (‘99), owner of Volt, Range and Family Meal-Aggio laid this out for us on the table during his demo at the CIA after the Fall Career Fair on November 4th.

I walked into the Eco Lab to find the demonstration kitchen rockin’ with momentum: Bryan, his assistant Graeme Ritchie (’05), and a large amount of culinary students in their whites were mise en placing at doubletime. One of the greatest things I appreciated before the demo even started was how Chef Voltaggio was so on top of the organization, making sure everything was done to the T. As the start of the demonstration approached, Chef Voltaggio said, “Let’s tighten it up a bit.” Like I said, he was on top of it.

In front of us were two and a half pitchers filled with a purple substance. It wasn’t until later that I figured out what it was. There was a platter of small-diced white mirepoix, and various cups of other ingredients.

Standing in front of us with his gray apron and his confident, yet humorous personality, Chef Voltaggio explained the value of taking a recipe of simplicity and transforming it into this thoughtfully complex piece of art. To prove his point, he prepared one of the most classic Italian recipes: Cavatelli Bolognese.

Squid ink Cavatelli Bolognese with pepperoni and calamari.

Photos by Katie Fenton

“Meet Our Staff ”

Chef Bryan Voltaggio (‘99) preps for a demo November 4th in EcoLab Theater.

What set his recipe apart from others was that he ground up pepperoni and calamari into the sauce. The pepperoni was not only ground up, but also browned before the calamari and the rest of the ingredients were added. Adding pepperoni to a Bolognese brings this vibrant punch to the sauce, and browning it gives that extra bit of caramelized flavor from the good ol’ Maillard reaction.

Chef Voltaggio stressed the importance of adding that extra step to set your creations apart from others. As the smell of browning pepperoni filled the air, I was reminded of how much greater pepperoni tastes after it is crisped on top of a pizza versus just being tossed into something.

Sometimes spending a bit more time on a dish with a few ingredients can be more beneficial in the end.

The ground calamari was then added and ceased up, maintaining its integrity through the heat. Ground mirepoix, pepper paste, a sachet, and fennel frond tops were also added. A splash of Chianti was used to deglaze the pan, the tomato was added, and the sauce was seasoned.

As it cooked, the room began to smell of warmth and a traditional Italian Sunday supper around the table.

Chef Voltaggio then added a twist on the homemade cavatelli recipe: squid ink cavatelli. With a large amount of pasta dough being made, the KitchenAid wasn’t able to handle it. He transferred his pasta to the wooden board beside him and rolled it by hand. He said, “This is how my grandmother would have done it anyway, this will make her more proud.” As the audience laughed, in a way, I ap-

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preciated him rolling it by hand. It showed the audience how sometimes when improvising, pulling from your prior knowledge and experiences could be the best tool to use.

The cavatelli was cooked in salted water, and then tossed in a sauté pan with some of the finished sauce, grated cheese, butter, and olive oil was added for sheen. A bit of pasta water was also added. Chef Voltaggio explained that it would provide mouth-feel and thickness to the sauce.

Once the dish was completed, an assembly line formed in about one second, as the assistant chefs garnished the tasting portions, pushing out one for each member of the audience.

The dish completely warmed me up on a cool fall evening. The cavatelli was beautifully airy, the sauce had a subtle essence of the sea from the calamari, the pepperoni added this bold punch of flavor, and the chili paste ended each bite with a touch of finesse on my palate.

Just when you thought the demonstration couldn’t get better, Chef went on to make us fluffy mini cheesecakes with just a hint of citrus. Sprinkled on top was a graham cracker crust crumble, accompanied with liquid nitrogen ice cream resembling Dippin Dots and a Concord grape sauce (the purple sauce I saw earlier) made from locally grown Concord grapes. Chef instilled in us the concept that with sound communication and production in both the savory and sweet departments of a kitchen, a guest’s dining experience can be that much closer to seamless.

If there was something that was left in the air at the end of Chef Voltaggio’s presentation, aside from the incredible smells, it was the inspiration to not miss a step, no matter what it is, and to use the basics we grasp here at CIA to excel beyond the school, and to let that passion steep into each of our careers.

Mini cheesecake with citrus, ice cream, and concord grape sauce.

CENTER SPREAD

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“Share Our Strength” “The Egg is on its Way!”

“Sports”

BACK PAGE

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“Graduation”

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LA PAPILLOTE

Editorial

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

From the Editor’s Desk

November 25, 2014

PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Connor White LAYOUT EDITOR Thiana Anderson ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Katie Fenton Sarah Lubitz Marisa Licandro Maddy Morrison Jan Smyth Nico Dellenback Sera Park

Lauren Willson Jeff Levine Tricia Manzanero Crystal Tan Andrew Vinegar

COMPACT

La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion.

Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize.

Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

FOOD REVIEW POLICY

As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

EDITORIAL POLICY

La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.

Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Connor White, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.

LETTERS POLICY

Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION

The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the

Earlier this month, it was my father’s birthday. Unfortunately however, I was here at school and was unable to celebrate with him. In my family food is the epicenter of all that we do. As a child, my father had a big influence on me gastronomically. Although on the surface he may seem like just a meat and potatoes type of person, there is so much more that he had to teach me about good food.

During the end of my high school years, it began time for me to decide what my next plan would be. It was time to determine a career path and search for schools.

My father was my biggest cheerleader for me throughout those years. He had foreseen me going into the culinary industry years before I had even considered it myself.

When it became time to start research, he was the one sitting on the computer, filing through each of the culinary schools’ websites and reviews. He also made the trip with me to each of my college visits. Yes, he was that parent in the tour who had notes and prepared questions to ask. Naturally, my first visit to The Culinary Institute of America was no different. He and I drove the four hours trip to CIA, toured the campus, and by the end of our day we were able to sit down for lunch together at Apple Pie Bakery Café. After visiting a few underwhelming culinary schools, I began to worry that I wouldn’t find “the one”.

As we enjoyed our first taste of CIA that day, it became clear to my father and I that this was the school where I belonged.

Having such support from my father was something that I am so blessed to have. It is no secret that the culinary industry involves a bit of risk. My father did not hesitate to support my decision to pursue culinary at any point. He trusted my judgment on my career path, and we worked together to find the best place for me to hone my skills. There isn’t a better support system in the world than my father.

As my father’s birthday approached, I began to think about what I wanted to do for him. I knew that since I couldn’t be home to celebrate with him, I wanted to at least bring him home something special. It wasn’t until I ventured back into Apple Pie Bakery that I would find the perfect gift for my father’s birthday.

One day, as I waited in line at Apple Pie Bakery, I couldn’t help but to notice the spread of treats beside me.

Sitting on the shelf I first noticed bottles of Crown Maple Syrup, one of my fathers favorite things. After growing up in New Hampshire, maple syrup became a staple food for him. I would even go as far as calling him a maple syrup connoisseur. When I was a kid, my father would wake up my siblings and I with the smell of pancakes hot off of the griddle. After piling my plate high, I would top the pancakes with some of the richest maple syrup that my father would still have shipped to us from New Hampshire.

Even still, whenever I enjoy pancakes I think of my father cooking up a batch for us kids to start off our mornings with.

While I was still standing in line at Apple Pie Bakery, I also noticed raspberry blackberry jam. Raspberries are one of my father’s favorite fruits. One of his favorite raspberry treats is a recipe that we always seem to eat when we visit my grandfather who still lives in New Hampshire.

Raspberry squares are made by preparing a standard 3-2-1 pie dough recipe. The dough is divided in two then half is rolled out to fill the bottom of a pan. A raspberry filling is spread on top and then covered with the other sheet of dough. These squares are then baked until golden brown and flakey. Every time we would go to New Hampshire to visit, we would eat these raspberry squares that were made from homemade jam that my grandfather made himself.

The raspberry blackberry jam that I noticed at Apple Pie Bakery would make the perfect base for a batch of raspberry squares.

Before I knew it, I had found the perfect gifts to give my father for his birthday. I knew that there was no better way to celebrate him, than with the foods that he taught me to love while I was just a kid. These are the foods that celebrate the best of home for both my father and I. The power of food never ceases to amaze me. With a simple ingredient, we can be transcended to a memory from the past. Whether it is tasting fresh maple syrup at a farm in New Hampshire as a kid, or waiting patiently for raspberry squares to cool down out of the oven, these foods were passed down to me from my father and have since become favorites of my own. When I head home for Thanksgiving break, I plan on bringing by father his now belated birthday present. Maybe he will wake me up with the smell of pancakes with Crown Maple Syrup if I make him raspberry squares with the raspberry blackberry jam that I found for him. That way we both can be happily full. Happy Birthday Dad and thank you for all that you have done for me!

Happy Eating, Connor White Editor-in- Chief

Andrew Vinegar Director of Campus Outreach

Thiana A. Anderson Layout Editor

Frank Guido Photographer and Social Media Editor

Sarah Lubitz Copy Editor

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November 25, 2014

Connor White, Editor-inChief

The Editor-in-Chief position requires organization of all content of the newspaper. Connor holds regular open editorial meetings, hunts down news stories for the staff writers to cover, and assists the Layout Editor in newspaper construction.

Degree Program: AOS Culinary Hometown: Elmira Heights, NY Externship Site: Highland Baking Co. in Chicago, IL Favorite Food: Middle Eastern foods that I grew up learning how to cook from my grandmother.

Fun Fact: I met Thomas Keller in a bathroom at school.

Thiana Anderson, Layout Editor

This issue will be Thiana’s last issue before she heads out to Vero Beach, FL for her externship. Since beginning with La Papillote, Thiana has constructed the all of the newspaper’s content. She has been a huge asset to our team and we wish her the best of luck on her externship!

Degree Program: AOS Culinary Hometown: Stanfordville, NY Externship Site: John’s Island Club, Vero Beach, FL Favorite Food: Pasta or... pizza!

Fun Fact: I’m a SCUBA instructor.

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Meet Our Staff Yejin Yoon, Layout Editor

Yejin will be starting as Layout Editor in our next issue of La Papillote. As Layout Editor, Yejin will be working hand in hand with the Editor-in-Chief to construct all articles and images to create a complete newspaper.

Degree Program: AOS Culinary Hometown: Baltimore, Maryland Externship Site: The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City, NY Favorite Food: Korean rice cakes Fun Fact: Can write in two languages simultaneously

Andrew Vinegar, Director of Campus Outreach

The Director of Campus Outreach is a position that keeps La Papillote in touch with all on campus news and events. Their focus is to highlight all upcoming events for the newspaper.

Degree Program: AOS Culinary Hometown: Georgetown, KY Externship Site: Bar Boulud in New York City, NY Favorite Food: Any type of braised dish or stew. I find them to be delicious regardless of ethnic group or culture.

Fun Fact: I’ve visited about half the states that make up the United States. Chicago, IL and New York, NY being my favorite places!

Frank Guido, Photography and Social Media Editor

Their primary responsibility is to oversee the overall photo content of the newspaper. Also, Frank maintains and updates the La Papillote Facebook and Instagram accounts.

Degree Program: AOS Culinary Hometown: Rochester, New York Externship Site: Next Door Bar & Grill by Wegmans in Rochester, New York Favorite Food: Pasta Fun Fact: I secretly want to be a baker.

Sarah Lubitz, Copy Editor

Sarah’s primary responsibility is to check submitted written material to correct errors in grammar, spelling, usage, and style, as well as to maintain the factual integrity of the publication.

Degree Program: AOS Culinary Hometown: Mobile, Alabama Externship Site: The Leaning Pear in Wimberley, Texas Favorite Food: Eggs Benedict, beef and tuna tartar, guacamole, and salmon.

Fun Fact: Writing and singing make the happiest.

Thanksgiving from the Writers of La Papillote

Katie Fenton

Despite loving every last bite of the smorgasbord of food on my plate (and the pie afterwards), to me, Thanksgiving’s greatest hours are in the morning. Every year, I walk down my stairs and am graced with the smell of chocolate chip muffins just out of the oven, alongside hot Irish Quiche with Irish sausage, scallions, and cheese. Without fail, my mom is always there to wish me a “Happy Thanksgiving Kate!” I look forward to watching all the balloons and floats go by, and the Rockettes performing (the initiation of the Christmas season). The piles of Black Friday ads are sifted through from my sister, to me, to my mom, and we plot our stakeout to come the following morning. Even my dad will peek at the Lowe’s ads. For the Fenton’s, it’s one of the best breakfasts we share together all year.

Tricia Manzanero

The Thanksgiving spread at the Manzanero household is far from traditional. Since we all agree that turkey is far from our favorite protein, we’ll whip up a tasty alternative such as garlic-soy chicken or crispy braised pork belly. Our sides range from pancit (Filipino noodles) to cauliflower gratin.

Although eclectic to say the least, our Turkey Day tradition is simply to eat the foods we truly enjoy around the people that we love dearly.

Sarah Lubitz

When I think of Thanksgiving, I think of two things: the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade and my great uncle’s turkey. To me, Thanksgiving is about family traditions. My family gathers at my Nana’s house every year, and the highlight is my uncle’s turkey. He

has been making it my entire life, and it is utter perfection. As soon as the turkey has been carved, we eat until we cannot move, and then we all gather in the living room to watch football and look at Black Friday ads. It is going to very hard for me to go without all of these traditions this year, but at least I will still have the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade.

Marisa Licandro

Thanksgiving is special because even though it is a truly American holiday, each family has its own traditions. My family likes to stuff the space between the meat and skin with stuffing. We use fresh Italian bread. The stuffing comes out thin, some parts crispy and some parts moist. Stuffing is definitely my favorite side dish at Thanksgiving.

Connor White

The Thanksgiving holiday means so much to my family. As the youngest member of my family, including the cousins, I seemed to be the last one left at home as they each grew up and moved away.

Luckily enough however, every Thanksgiving we would all make our way back home so that we could celebrate together. Every year I help out in the kitchen preparing a fairly traditional Thanksgiving feast. Ever since I’ve immersed myself in culinary, I have become the authority on all things food in my family. I always get the “What time am I supposed to put the turkey in at?” or even “Are you sure that we can’t just buy the can of cranberry sauce?”

Last year was my first year that I helped cook the meal since I’ve been in culinary school, and because of that I felt as if I had something to prove. I prepared the turkey, this time using a boldly flavored spice and herb rub. Making changes in the menu can be a risk but this

time it ended up paying off. Since I prepared the bird, I also was deemed the new turkey carver of our family. After all of that work the turkey came out succulent and tasty.

It was a hit that only caused anticipation for this year’s turkey.

With one more year of culinary school under my belt, I have even more that I want to show my family. I have to not only cook as well as I did last year, I have to outdo myself. Luckily, I will have all day on Wednesday to do my shopping and prepwork. Though I can only imagine how miserable it is going to be at the grocery store on the day before Thanksgiving, I know that I will be able to out shop all of the moms that I will be competing with for that last sacred turkey.

LA PAPILLOTE

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Share Our Strength – No Kid Hungry

BY: Sarah Lubitz, AOS Culinary

More than sixteen million kids in America live in households that struggle to put food on the table. That’s one out of five kids. Nearly twentytwo percent of kids under the age of eighteen live in poverty. These statistics are staggering, and, as students here at CIA, I feel like we should be more focused on what we can do to change this. Whether most of us realize it or not, enrolling at this school comes with a responsibility to ourselves and to the community. Because of this, I sought out Share Our Strength’s campaign, No Kid Hungry, when I attended the New York City Wine and Food Festival last month. They’re an organization that I was familiar with, and I have always appreciated their work. Their goal is to provide meals for children in America. Right now, their biggest campaign is to provide children with breakfast at schools in New York City. I approached one of the representatives for Share Our Strength at the event and we discussed where I was attending school. I took the opportunity to get his information because I wanted to get a conversation started – How can students at The Culinary Institute of America give back by supporting No Kid Hungry?

I was fortunate enough to have the chance to do a phone interview with the SOS representative I met at NYCWFF, Clay Dunn, and he was able to give me more information about what they do and we can get involved.

Sarah: How can we, as CIA students, get involved with Share Our Strength? I feel like it’s a wasted opportunity not to, you know?

Clay: No, totally, that’s a great question. So, one of the things our organization really prides itself on is our long history of working with the culinary community. Thirty years ago, when our founders, Billy and Debbie Shore, started the organization in response to the Ethiopian famine, they knew that they needed to engage a whole set of people in fighting hunger that had not traditionally been a part of the conversation. They just had this moment and thought, “The culinary community and chefs care so much about food, we should work with them on this issue.” And, you know, we started Taste of the Nation events all over the country, which now have been much copied, there are lots of tasting events like that now, but, you know, thirty years ago, it was really an unusual thing for people to do.

We’re so thankful to the chef community at large for all of the ways that they’ve helped us through this time, not only at events and helping to raise money for the issue, but also serving as advocates. Chefs come with us all the time to Capitol Hill and to state houses to lobby on behalf of kids who can’t be there themselves. They’re engaged in every part of our work. We have this nutrition education program called Cooking Matters, and chefs are such a huge part of that program reaching families. They’re in the classrooms, they’re helping people learn new skills, taking people through grocery stores, teaching them how to shop on a limited budget.

Sarah: I was given the name of a local representative of Cooking Matters, Jeannie Lindhorst. She’s the program

Images Courtesy of Clay Dunn

SOS Representative Clay Dunn coordinator here in the Hudson Valley.

For me, I just love that there are so many chefs involved with it, because what you do is a big deal. I’m glad that New York City Wine and Food Festival is linked to y’all.

Clay: We’re very lucky to be the beneficiary of the festival – they’ve been so great to us helping us raise money to further our work.

Sarah: How did Share Our Strength start its partnership with NYCWFF? It’s been a while, right?

Clay: It has been a while. I think this is our sixth or seventh year. I don’t exactly know how we came to be the beneficiary of the festival, but we’ve had a long-standing and really strong partnership with the Food Network. No Kid Hungry is their charity of choice, and Food Network is the title sponsor for NYCWFF, and we’re lucky to be a part of that festival - and, you know, a few other festivals around the country. Portland is starting a new festival called Feast, and we were the beneficiary of that this year.

Food Network Magazine actually did a Chefs and Rock and Roll Concert this summer in Chicago that was a one day event, and we were lucky enough to be a part of that, too.

Sarah: I know I’d mentioned what we can do here at The Culinary. Is there anything event wise that we could do, is there information we could be sent to pass out?

Clay: You know, that’s a great question, and that’s something I wanted to talk to you about because I definitely see an opportunity – and I’d like to hear some ideas from you, too – I personally see an opportunity to for us to maybe approach The Culinary Institute with some way that we might work with students, not only to find ways to plug them into the work, like if they wanted to do something like Cooking Matters courses, or also more generally to introduce the concept of philanthropy and how chefs have made a huge difference in the hunger issue, and maybe even doing that through chefs themselves. I don’t know what happens in terms of guest speakers and things at school…

Sarah: We definitely have a lot. I don’t know what the sign up process is, but I could ask somebody.

Clay: Yeah, totally. You know, I think that my colleague Jenny is on our culinary team. She kind of heads up our chef relations, and I’d like to engage her in this conversation as well because I feel like she has a lot of ideas, and she probably knows more whether or not we’ve approached The Culinary Institute with something like this in the past.

Sarah: Absolutely. I would definitely love to talk about this and approach someone with the idea.

Clay: That would be awesome. I think it’s just something that would make a lot of sense. Even if it’s not specifically No Kid Hungry, it’s such a powerful opportunity to engage students while they’re still in school and thinking

about the kind of chefs that they’re going to be.

Sarah: Yeah, and I feel like with organizations like this, if you were to get started with it in school – once you get involved with organization like this it becomes something very personal to you, and then you’ll carry it with you the rest of your career and your life.

Clay: Yeah, one hundred percent.

Sarah: So, I just feel like it’s really important. There have been organizations in the past, not necessarily related to food, that I started supporting, and they never really went away. You constantly support them – even if you can’t really donate a whole lot of money, you’re definitely an advocate for them. So, when I saw y’all at the festival, I thought, “Alright, this is ridiculous, how are we not involved?!” (Clay laughs) I don’t know – since I was in high school and had to do a project and focus on an organization, and I picked UNICEF. Clay: Oh, really? Awesome. What drew you to UNICEF in that moment?

Sarah: There was an actress I really liked that was an ambassador for UNICEF, and has been for a really long time, so I looked more into it. Because of her, it’s why I really believe celebrities should use their status for the greater good. Chefs fall into that category, too. But, I feel like ever since then, organizations have been a big deal in my life. Even if you can’t donate money, I feel like your voice and your awareness of the organization is almost more powerful than money sometimes.

Clay: No, absolutely. I agree one hundred percent.

Sarah: People so often say, “Well, I don’t have any money, so I can’t do anything.” That’s not true at all.

Clay: No, it’s totally not true.

Sarah: So, you know, I believe it’s not necessarily your duty, but I kind of feel like it is at the same time. I try to at least stay involved with what I can. That’s why I like events because, normally, they’re tied to an organization.

Clay: Well, Sarah, thanks for reaching out, and we will definitely be in touch about maybe getting something started at The Culinary Institute.

Sarah: Absolutely. Thank you so much!

In the upcoming weeks, I intend to investigate what we can do to get the ball rolling here on campus. If anyone is interested in becoming involved, feel free to email me at sarah.e.lubitz@cia.culinary.edu. For more information about you can do to support Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign, please visit www.nokidhungry.org.

You can donate both your time and your money, and most importantly, you can donate your voice.

November 25, 2014

ON CAMPUS

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The Sweetest of Mudd Puddles, New Paltz

BY: Katie Fenton, BPS Culinary

It started off as a place to get a mid-afternoon lunch on a rainy day: three friends with appetites for some classic comfort food. As the cooler days approach, even the best jacket and scarf don’t add up to the warmth you can get from a good cup of hot chocolate. Across the Mid-Hudson Bridge, down the main strip of New Paltz, nestled in a quaint little walking plaza of stone shops, is the greatest Mudd Puddle you will ever run through.

The Mudd Puddle serves a variety of panini and sandwiches, such as their House-Roasted Turkey Panino. They also offer a daily soup that is made fresh every morning.

They offer coffee up out the ying yang, but if you’re going to go all the way there, hot chocolate’s what you’re looking for.

The first and greatest thing I noticed when going into this place was that the atmosphere immediately reminded me of walking into my house after being outside on a cold day. It provided warmth to my heart, much like stepping into someone’s cozy home would.

There’s always a tray of cookies that has just come out of the oven, cooling on a sheet tray on the counter.

They’re just waiting for you to wrap one up in a napkin and take it with you. The kitchen is right behind the counter in front of you as you order, there’s just a small stove and enough counter space to produce for the four or five wooden tables inside, and the couple of deuces on the porch out front. There is no “behind the scenes,” just open space with a chalkboard menu up above. To the side of the front counter, sits a few assorted couches and chairs, with space on the wall for customers to post their “Poetry and Thoughts.” There’s also an antique wooden bookshelf, which holds an endless amount of books and even a com-

BY: Maddy Morrison, AOS Culinary

A variety of teas featured at The Mudd Puddle. munity journal that anyone is welcome to write in.

What’s more to this little place is that if you’re there enough, it holds live music every once in a while for all locals and visitors to take advantage of. There’s nothing like some good vibes in New Paltz through music.

If you order in, you sit down and your food is brought to you, steam sailing above whatever it is that you got.

After visiting a few times, I have found it is also lovely to take your hot chocolate and warm cookie with you and roam the quaint streets of New Paltz. On a beautiful, cool day, it can be one of the most heart-warming outings, especially in the morning.

But there’s something about sitting down inside The Mudd Puddle that just makes you feel at home. Maybe it’s the genuine kindness shown by every employee inside, or maybe it’s the aura given off by the openness and peace that fills your lungs as you walk in. But, what I think captures my attention is taking that first sip of hot chocolate.

It has everything: the rich, yet not overwhelming chocolaty taste, the marshmallows (or whipped cream if you prefer) that add that extra creaminess, the perfect tem-

perature that, in my book, they always seem to nail. It’s ten steps above water and packets, yet not to a point where you’re belly aching about it afterwards.

As you’re sitting there inside The Mudd Puddle with your hot chocolate, sharing the company of a loved one or even just curled up with a book, don’t forget to try a cookie.

In a way, I think the Mudd Puddle restores the beauty and simplicity of comfort food. One of the greatest treasures of tranquility to grasp during these cold months is just sitting down in a cozy place, eating something warm, whether it be a bowl of soup, a grilled cheese, or a cup of hot chocolate with a cookie. It isn’t always about what foods have the fanciest ingredients, the highest price or the funkiest spin, but rather what can truly warm our being.

Photos Courtesy of Katie Fenton

Flavors of the Hudson Valley

Many people spend their money on clothes, or the newest video game, or even new technologies, but most of us here have a knack for spending a majority of our paycheck on food.

Many of us treasure the amazing eating experiences we find in the Hudson Valley and in the neighboring cities, but when we look back at our bank accounts some of us feel bad later, while others feel no remorse. I had the pleasure of speaking with Steven Hengest, who is one of the board members of the Hudson Valley Restaurant Week, and he passionately explained the history of restaurant week and how it came about, and the different restaurants in the area that participated this year.

In the Hudson Valley during the summer, people from the city would make a day trip and come and visit the peaceful, serene area, full of hiking trails, and boat rides. During the autumn season, visitors come and pick apples and pumpkins and enjoy the colorful trees that can be seen in the distance. However, between the season change of autumn and winter, businesses that are normally thriving close for the season. This decreases the amount of tourist in the area, but restaurants cannot close.

The Hudson Valley Restaurant Week was established about ten years ago and this annual event takes place during the first two full weeks of November. This year, over two hundred restaurants participated and three of the CIA’s restaurants took part this year, offering three course meals for as low as thirty dollars. Some nearby restaurants that participated this year included Crave, located under the Hudson Valley Walkway, and Artist Pallet, located on Main Street Poughkeepsie. Italian restaurants, French res-

taurants, and even restaurants focusing on new and unique cuisine participated.

Restaurant Week is a great way for restaurants to open up their clientele, because by having the flat rate of a three-course meal for thirty dollars, the public has the

opportunity to taste dishes that would normally rack up a high bill. So, mark your calendars for next year’s Hudson Valley Restaurant Week, and prepare your taste buds for the exciting adventure that awaits.

6

LA PAPILLOTE

CENTER SPREAD

CENTER

Courtesy of Jan Smyth

reThink Food Conference Ignites Transformative Ideas About the Future of Food

More than 350 executives, thought leaders, and innovators in technology, behavior, design, and food gathered this past weekend at The Culinary Institute of America at Greystone in the Napa Valley for the first edition of reThink Food. This groundbreaking conference, co-presented by the CIA and the MIT Media Lab, showcased insights into the future of food and the integration of technology in that future, and imagined a new revolution in food and foodservice.

“We are at a pivotal moment when culinary, technology, and behavioral experts must collaborate to address the challenges we all see for our future,” said CIA President Tim Ryan. “This convergence can create a business landscape in which higher quality, more engaging food experiences evolve through innovations in technology and design, and move us on to the next big idea—producing value-based strategies that connect our industry to the needs and expectations of today’s consumers. This weekend, reThink Food became such a place of convergence.”

Ryan shared the stage with Media Lab Director Joi Ito, who spoke about the way food brings together so many different, seemingly disparate areas—art, science, and design—much the way the MIT Media Lab does. “At the Lab we routinely break down entrenched silos, and see a need to do the same for the food sector,” said Ito. “Today’s consumers not only want to know more about what they’re eating, but also how it’s produced, transported, and packaged. Going forward, everyone from growers, to food technologists, to chefs, will be taking on new, interconnected roles in reshaping how we think about, prepare, and consume our food.”

Keynote speaker Tom Standage, journalist at The Economist and author of books that track the culture of

BY: Nico Dellenback, BPS Culinary Day 1 Culinary Fundamentals, students are told where the food waste on campus goes. Each day, the blue trash bins are pushed, pulled, and emptied into the dumpster. Besides feeding squirrels and hedge hogs, what good comes from this food waste? Why do we have to pick out stickers and butter paper? Why have our chefs tipped over the bin across the floor right before service begins in K-16? Our food waste is what feeds our customers. I don’t mean that literally (only in some cases), but food waste is an integral part of any food system. After we take the trash out, clean the bucket, and smoke a cigarette, the journey has really just begun.

Up to fifteen tons of food waste is accumulated each week. Twice a week, the food waste is transported thirty miles east of our school to The McEnroe Farm. Erich McEnroe, Farm Operational Manager, and his thirty employees take care of the rest on their 1,200 acres of land.

All the food waste is combined together on their farm site in Millerton NY. In a single year, they will receive around 10,000 yards of food waste. This doesn’t include organic compost. It is all contained in an area that has been sealed off. Meaning, the chemicals released during the “curing” do not enter the aquifer. The surrounding area is tested often to make certain of this. Our food waste is combined with a mix of leaves. The reason for this is to create a higher quality end product. The leaves contribute carbon, and then our food waste contributes nitrogen. The mixture is heated to 132 degrees for up to fifteen days. This destroys any bacteria and weed seeds, which can reduce the amount of weeds when it is used to grow produce. Afterwards, it is piled in rows. The soil is

Keynote speaker Tom Standage of The Economist addressed a sell-out crowd of executives, thought leaders, and innovators at the first reThink Food conference, co-presented by The Culinary Institute of America and the MIT Media Lab. Photo credit: CIA/Kristen Loken food (An Edible History of Humanity) and the rise of technology (Writing on the Wall), opened the conference with an illuminating review of the key historical milestones in food and technology that brought us to where we are today. Other presenters, including Will Rosenzweig of Physic Ventures, Pulitzer Prize winner Michael Moss, and Google’s Michiel Bakker, discussed technology’s evolving role in food innovation as well as the consumer’s changing response to technology when it comes to eating and cooking.

Breakthroughs in neuroscience also reveal what role our brain plays in food choices. Scientists Lisa Mosconi of NYU School of Medicine, Ki Goosens of MIT’s McGovern Institute, and Daphne Miller from UC San Francisco reviewed how a better understanding of the relationship between body and environment could inform innovation in product development and healthier eating habits. Other

discussion topics included how technology might change how we shop for food, our food supply in local and global perspectives, and how the design of our food environments affects what we eat.

Throughout the three days, eyes and ears were on the future—what will our culinary future look like and who will shape it across the next five, 10, or 20 years? What we consume, how we procure it, and the relationship between man and machine in that process are at the center of large-scale changes that we don’t fully understand. The CIA and the MIT Media Lab, through reThink Food, gathered a community committed to uncovering these changes so we can responsibly prepare for the future.

Additional information, including video from a live webcast of the conference, can be found on the website, www. re-thinkfood.org.

Plate to Soil livestock feeding rotation.

Erich McEnroe encourages CIA students to support locally grown food, and keep up the good work with the compost. According to him, the CIA does a great job in keeping its food waste free from any undesirables. So, tell one that to your chef anytime he or she tells you otherwise.

“Blue bin” material piles up. manually turned from now on. This process is called “curing”. The step can last almost five months. When the soil is ready, it is supplied to landscapers, regional farms, parks, home gardeners, and even here at the CIA. Most of our country’s food waste is thrown in landfills and forgotten. The McEnroe Farm is doing its part to help our environment and its local community. They offer apprenticeship programs and learning opportunities to children. Anybody is able to learn about the farms sustainable practices on the farm tours that they offer year round. The children learn about their greenhouses, the solar powered irrigation system, strip cropping, and the

Compost production at The McEnroe Farm.

Photos Courtesy of Nico Dellenback

November 25, 2014

7

SPREAD Chef Centerfold

C hef R ichard J. C oppedge

The Egg is on its Way!

BY: Lauren Willson, Staff Contributor

Photos by Joe Ferrigno Photo Courtesy of CIA BY: Sera Park, AOS Culinary Chef Richard J. Coppedge has been a professor of Baking and Pastry Arts at The Culinary Institute of America since 1992 and he has been teaching over 30 years. In addition, he is a well-known expert on the specialty of gluten-free baking, even having his own book on the topic. As a successful man and an exemplary professor, he is respected by many students.

His life philosophy is “doing what you can enjoy.” I posed a question to him that if he writes his biography, what moment would he want to erase, and he gave a quick response: “I can’t really think of anything to not include.

I say over 95 percent I have enjoyed.” His biggest happiness is his family and his teaching. The best moment of his whole life was his marriage to his wife. When it comes to his teaching career, his best moment would be when he was asked to be a guest speaker at the graduation to say some words for his students. During the interview, he did not say anything about loving his students, but it is enough to feel that he really does. He enjoys teaching his students, interacting with them, and seeing them improve.

His main job is not only teaching the baking technique, but also helping the new students to understand what their career is going to be. Coming to the classroom every day is an adventure for him, and he likes it.

He developed his own gluten-free methods and is very dedicated to others. Gluten-free baking is very rewarding for him. He considers it to be the most significant area of work for last 10 years of his life. “It’s very helpful for other people. A lot people feel better and are able to eat, and that’s actually very rewarding,” he said.

He said the food industry is very hard, and that we should appreciate how important food is to this industry.

He emphasized not to waste food. People should not be afraid of getting their hands dirty, like working weekends.

They should be willing to be on their feet and not mind get yelled at, and they should enjoy making food for their customers. It can be a very stressful business. He advised that balancing one’s life with the career is very important.

For example, while he enjoyed his business, he learned to relax when he waits for the business. For his relaxation, he exercises or walks with his three dogs and one cat. It is important to like your work and have a balancing hobby.

Happiness does not depend on money, reputation, or fame. To feel happiness, one should be honest with themself and feel only his or her emotions, then determine whether or not there is happiness. It may be a common statement for many people that it is impossible to live happily without first thinking of money, reputation and life style. However, for Chef Coppedge, the happiness and enjoyment is the first thing for his own life decision.

Targeted for completion in June 2015, the centerpiece of the Student Commons will be “The Egg”—so named for its oval shape—which will provide additional student dining options. The Egg will operate seven days a week offering students food from a variety of kitchens, including the current Quantity Food Production class, a café, a pastry shop, and more.

Some other exciting features: • A pop-up concept restaurant developed and operated by CIA bachelor’s degree students that will change each semester.

• The Brooklyn Brewery at the CIA, integrated into the degree program curricula and supporting the college’s beverage education programs.

• A vibrant marketplace, where students can shop for fresh seasonal produce, cured meats and charcuteries, cheeses, breads, dried pastas, healthy grab-and-go meals, snacks, and beverages.

• A stage for open mic nights, karaoke, comedy shows, cooking demos, and more.

“The Egg at the Student Commons is definitely going to be the place for students to hang out,” says Waldy Malouf, senior director of food and beverage operations at the CIA. “Campus life will revolve around it. Students will dine, meet, study, relax, socialize, and even be entertained.

Plus it has a classroom component that’s a vital part of our mission here at the college.”

What its Like to be an MIT with Josias Lambert

BY: Sarah Lubitz, AOS Culinary

Here at CIA, our first interaction with an MIT (manager in training) is when we enter Meats. As I have been going through Fish, I found myself wondering about the MIT position.

I emailed Jennifer Purcell, Associate Dean of Restaurant Education and Operations, inquiring about the academic standing a student must have to enter the program.

Purcell explained that any student interested in becoming an MIT must have a 2.8 GPA or higher, no more than three demerits, no more than five absences during AOS, and no more than twenty-five cumulative absences for BPS. A background check is done by The Culinary when you apply to the eleven month program. Some of the benefits, other than the ones on the job, include insurance for the student, five paid vacation days, and five sick days. To gain further insight into the MIT program, I interviewed the MIT for Fish ID, Josias Lambert.

What does being an MIT entail? What is your job description?

Well, each MIT position is different, so, if you’re front of the house, it’s different than back of the house for the restaurants, and then if you’re in the meat or fish rooms, it’s going to be much different than those two. So, depending on which position you’re in as an MIT, it can vary. Because, I’m not in one of the restaurants, so I don’t have than pressure to do any of that stuff. But, some of my main responsibilities are assisting the chef and teaching the classes how to fabricate and identify the fish, as you know, how to scale the fish, how to gut the fish, doing inventory, assisting Matt, the inventory manager, with any type of inventory that he does, charging, all of the chefs get charged a certain amount of weight and a type of fish,

so we need to make sure we have the correct weight and amount going to the right kitchens, and then simply just helping to make the chef ’s life easier.

In your opinion, what are the benefits of serving as an MIT? I think some of the biggest benefits are being able to rub shoulders with the chefs and being able to learn from them. More than anything, it’s a great learning experience.

It is paid, which is nice, but that’s way down the line. The learning experience, being with the chefs, as well for me, practically, being down here, my ability to fabricate fish is, I would say, is extremely good, better than the majority of most people, just because this is what I do every, single day. So, being able to identify the fish, correctly fabricate the fish, it is definitely a skill, and I feel like I’ve gained that skill. As well, if you work well with the chefs, you get to know people better, you’ll earn possible recommendations, and it’s always a good thing to have The Culinary Institute of America as an employer; it’s a big deal.

I remember you mentioning in class that you have a background in education. I feel like that has definitely helped you, hasn’t it?

It has helped me a lot. A lot of this position is teaching the students how to fabricate, and, as we just went through, teaching them the identification factors of the different fish, so, it has helped me a lot. I have a degree in education – I have my bachelor’s in education – and it just helps because it gives you a good idea of different ways of teaching and different learning styles with people, and, you know, every student is different. And, the whole thing is, you know, that I want students to be able to walk away learning and understanding. It doesn’t do any good to just be here and benefit for myself, it’s got to be to help the students learn. So, that’s one of the biggest things for me.

8

LA PAPILLOTE

Sports

Soccer Coach and Player Earn Honors

BY: Jeff Levine, CIA Manager- Communications

Sophomore Dan Landon ( Johnsburgh, Ill.) of The Culinary Institute of America was named the Hudson Valley Intercollegiate Athletic Conference (HVIAC) Soccer Player of the Year for 2014. Landon scored 15 goals, more than any other player in the conference, while leading the CIA to an 8-4-2 overall record. He also led the conference with four game-winning goals, all coming in league play, where the Steels went 5-1-0 and won the regular season championship.

Adding to the post-season honors for the CIA, second-year head coach Chris Lyn was named HVIAC coach of the year. Four other Steels were named to AllConference Team: Sophomores Corte Allen (Staunton, VA), Jonathan Bedell (Naperville, IL), and Dylan Soro (Temecula, CA), and junior Eric Hamway (Columbia, NJ).

For Bedell, the CIA’s goalkeeper, it was his second straight year on the All-HVIAC Team. He finished the season with three shutouts and a 1.35 goals against average.

The Steels season concluded on October 26, with a penalty kick shootout loss to Berkeley in the conference tournament semifinal, after double overtime ended in a 1-1 tie.

The CIA’s men’s and women’s sports teams are named for the tool chefs use to sharpen knives. The Steels compete in the HVIAC in soccer, basketball, cross country, volleyball, and tennis.

Head Coach Chris Lyn Photos Courtesy of Jeff Levine

HVIAC Soccer Player of the Year: CIA Sophomore Dan Landon, number 7.

Turkey Bowl Highlights

Congrats to the winners of the 2014 Turkey Bowl, Team First in Goal.

Photos Courtesy of Joe Ferrigno

2014-2015 Basketball Team No. Name Ht. 2 Duane Waldorf 5’10” 3 Max Goldberg 6’2” 4 Ian Whalley 6’2” 5 Jonathan Ikinaga 5’8” 11 Anthony Russo 5’10” 12 Avery Britton 6’3” 13 Frederick Moore 5’8” 15 Robert Yoakum 6’2” 21 Wayne McFarlane 6’1” 22 Nico Christiansen 6’1” 23 Louis Guarneiri 6’0” 30 Ryan Swenson 6’6” 33 Adam LaRose 6’5” 35 Jordan Marshall 5’10’ Head Coach Tim McEnroe

Yr. Sr. Sr. Sr. Sr. Jr. So. Jr. Fr. Sr. Fr. Jr. Jr. Jr. Fr.

Hometown/High School St. Clair Shores, MI/Lakeview High School Redondo Beach, CA/Redondo Union Manassas, VA/Centreville High School Mountain View, CA/Mountain View High School Holmdel, NJ/Holmdel High School Kirkland, WA/Juanita High School Hyde Park, NY/FDR High School Rancho Santa Margarita, CA/Mission Viejo High School Fort Pierce, FL/Fort Pierce High School Santa Crus, CA/Santa Cruz High School Goshen, NY/Goshen High School Fremont MI/Fremont High School Stuarts Draft, VA/Stuarts Draft High School Dallas, TX/Dubiski Career High School

Tim McEnroe comes to the CIA with an impressive résumé coaching high school and college basketball in the Hudson Valley area for the past 30 years.

A graduate of SUNY Brockport, Tim began his coaching career at the varsity basketball level at Webutuck High School from 1981–1986, and then again from 2011–2012.

He also held coaching positions at Millbrook High School (1987–1995, 2006–2009) and the Millbrook School (2000–2006). Coach McEnroe is one of only a handful of high school basketball coaches to have won more than 100 games in both public and private school programs. He was named Dutchess County and New York State Section I Coach of the Year in 1991 and was awarded the 2005 New England Prep Team Sportsmanship Award.

His experience and accomplishments helped him land a position as assistant coach at Mt. St. Mary’s College in 1998. The following season, Coach McEnroe took over the team as interim head coach, leading The Mount to the ECAC tournament.

His goal at the CIA is to develop a team that believes in good sportsmanship, builds strong defensive skills, and enjoys playing together.

November 25, 2014

9

Culinary Wordsearch

APPEARANCE AROMATIC ARRANGEMENT ART BAKING BASICS BISQUE BRINE

BY: Tricia Manzanero, AOS Culinary

CANAPE CHEF COOKING CREATIVITY CULINARIAN DELIVERY DISH EATING

EDIBLE FLAVOR FOOD GARNISH GLAZE HERBS INDUSTRY JOB

Last Block’s Puzzle Solution

KITCHEN KNIVES KNOWLEDGE MEALS NATURAL PALATE PASSION RECIPE

RESTRICTION SEASONING SPECIALIZATION SUBSTITUTE TECHINIQUE TEMPERATURE TRADITIONAL VISUAL

The solution will be in the next issue.

Top 5: This Week & Beyond

Free time? Many of us here at the CIA might need a dictionary for that one. Between classes, papers, exams, stages, meetings, work and beyond, it often seems like we need a twenty-fifth hour in the day.

But with the upcoming Thanksgiving break, we are faced with an ever-rare string of days off.

From winter food festivals in the Big Apple to a Macy’s Thanksgiving parade preview, make the most of your much-deserved freedom with our Top 5 picks for your week and beyond. #1) Macy’s Thanksgiving-Eve Balloon Blow Up – November 26 Watch this famed Turkey Day parade quite literally take flight. Each year, the crew behind the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade gets to work the eve before, blowing up their show-stopping balloons. “Ooh” and “aah” along with fellow onlookers as you peruse the balloons on view from 77th Street to 81st Street between Central Park West and Columbus Avenue. This Thanksgiving’s cast of characters includes Snoopy, Garfield, Hello Kitty, Shrek, SpongeBob and more. And, unlike parade day, there’s no need to stand out in the cold for hours. Just get your balloon fix then treat yourself to a steaming cup of hot cocoa nearby. Viewing time is from 3-10 P.M. Admission is absolutely free. www.macys.com/parade

#2) Rhinebeck Village Tree Lighting & Parade – November 30 Start your holiday off on the bright side in nearby Rhinebeck. To kick off the season, the community comes together for their annual tree lighting ceremony and parade. The action starts at 3:30 P.M. Explore the stalls of local vendors, then hop on a quaint carriage ride through the village. The Children’s Parade of Lights will steal the show at 5 P.M. with the tree lighting immediately following. Sounds like a perfect way to spend the day and spark some holiday spirit. www.rhinebeckchamber.com

will come alive with performers, jugglers, stilt-walkers and more. Free world-class musical acts—such as Arlo Guthrie, Billy Porter and the cast of the Broadway musical, Kinky Boots—will take over using the local Apple store, Century 21 and other shops as their performance venues.

And since all of this excitement is bound to build your appetite, treat yourself to some super tasty, yet affordable, fare from some of New York’s premier restaurants. Spicy tuna hand rolls for $4 from three-Michelin-star restaurant, Masa? Yes, please! Full hours and information at www.winterseve.nyc.

#3) Kevin McCurdy’s Holiday Spirit Festival – November 28 to December 27 Channel your childhood at Kevin McCurdy’s Annual Holiday Spirit Festival. Now celebrating its 10th anniversary, this jolly Hudson Valley festival takes guests back to the days when the holidays were made magical by twinkling lights, toys, sugarplums and Santa. Skip through their charming Christmas Village, explore the Enchanted Forest of Lights, or indulge in the Sugar Plum Express’ sweets and snacks. Tickets are just $12, a small price to pay for a ton of holiday cheer. For hours and additional details, visit www.holidayspiritfestival.com.

#5) Columbus Circle Holiday Market – December 2 - 24 Holiday present procrastinators, you’re in luck. New York City’s Columbus Circle Holiday Market comes to life on December 2, offering a one-stop shopping spot for everyone on your list. Nestled on the corner of 59th Street and Central Park, you’ll find warmly lit, candy-striped shops selling everything from artisanal truffles to handmade accessories, plus cider, hot chocolate and more scrumptious treats from some of the city’s finest eateries. There’s no admission fee, but be sure to bring enough spending money. Many stalls take credit cards, but it’s best to have cash, too, just in case. For a full vendor lineup and more, check out www.urbanspacenyc.com.

#4) Winters Eve at Lincoln Square – December 1 Welcome the holiday season at this Big Apple bash of music, food, dancing and fun for everyone. For one night only, Lincoln Square’s sidewalks in the Upper West Side

10

LA PAPILLOTE

In The Industry

BY: Nico Dellenback, BPS Culinary

Brooklyn Brewery Partnership: The Future is Beer

Beer sales have been increasing since the early 1980’s. In 1984, Steve Hindy was taking the first steps in creating what is now The Brooklyn Brewery. His goal is this: “To bring good beer back to New York City”.

At first, there were few resources available, so the original Brooklyn Lager was brewed in Utica, NY. In 1994, Brooklyn Brewery hired Garret Oliver to oversee production. Chef Waldy Malouf, Senior Director of CIA Food and Beverage Operations, says “Oliver is one of the best and best known brewmasters in the world”. Brooklyn Brewery, in partnership with the CIA, will be opening a small brewery on campus, available to the public in the summer of 2015.

President Tim Ryan has been planning on bringing a brewery to campus for many years now. This program represents the forward thinking mentality of our school, and sets graduates yet another level above the rest.

All over the country food and beer is growing. It is on its way to becoming a regional staple. Since 2011, there has been a 200% increase in restaurant brewers in New York State. Malouf says it’s because, “Americans taste in food grew, there is dark beer, fruit beer, lambic, pilsner, chocolate stout, and all other different types, with interest in food increasing, people wanted to know how beer was made, with combination with the local food movement, it started to grow.” Regional food and local beer have begun to be paired in new ways. An example would be the combination of a microbrewery and restaurant, which, in many ways, is the most accurate expression of a region’s food culture or terroir. CIA graduates are encouraged to join the best restaurants and push themselves to the edge of culinary innovation, which could be a reason why, “The CIA, currently, has about 1,400 graduates involved in microbreweries across the country.” Here at school, each year there are at least two special beer and food pairing

dinners. Malouf says the dinners, “instantly sell out, immediately, faster than most of the wine dinners.”

Beer growth can be partially contributed to the positive effects it has on the region and vice versa. New York State Governor Andrew Cuomo says, “By enabling this internationally renowned educational institution to combine forces with one of New York’s most iconic breweries, we will be able to further strengthen the mid-Hudson Valley’s tourism industry today, and also bring the state’s burgeoning craft beer industry to new heights by training the brewers of tomorrow.” It will bring more tourism to the Hudson Valley which will help local communities.

As a way to encourage breweries to stay local, in coming years, 90% or more of the hops used must be from NYS by 2024. This will help maintain the Hudson Valley’s regional identity.

The partnership between the CIA and The Brooklyn Brewery will help each student in their career. The program will only be available to bachelor students, but each student will be able to taste, watch, and learn about the process. Garret Oliver will be using our brewery as a “pilot brewery”. When a class is not using it, Oliver will experiment, demo for students, and do product testing. When the program is in session, there will be four beers available on tap. The Egg, within the new Student Commons will be the perfect way to enjoy a wide variety of made to order food, an espresso bar, and, of course, the products of the brewing students. Malouf says, “A lager and pilsner should always be available, but the others will be more experimental. There may be one or two times where it’s not so great, but that’s the idea, it’s a school.

This opportunity to experiment and learn by doing is something they truly cannot find anywhere else.” The beer produced in the brewery will be also available in each of the school’s public restaurants. This will teach students about the necessity and benefits of having a beer program in a restaurant. Malouf says, “Beer is no longer

An Externship Story:

Cheesecakes and Chausson aux Pommes

BY: Crystal Tan, AOS Baking & Pastry As I started work, I was mostly scheduled for the 6 o’clock morning shifts. This is the time for morning bread baking and breakfast prep for the guests at the hotel. Usually it is only Chef Anthony Millon and I in the pastry section during this time.

During this period, I get to know Chef Anthony more and more as the lively and humorous person that he is.

At 6’o’clock, Chef will start by baking off the bread and viennoisserie that had been proofing overnight in the retarder and I start weighing and mixing the breads for the next morning. At around 8 o’clock, fresh bread comes out of the oven and new dough is rising on the sides. It is would be my favorite time of day, breakfast time.

Breakfast is a time of conversation and laughing and being teased (I am getting used to this part, it seems to be on the job description of an extern) over coffee and warm croissants.

Chef: “Have you ever seen a chef get coffee for stagier?”

Me: “No, Chef.”

As I settle in with the daily routines, one day, Chef asked me, “What are you good at baking?” I was caught like a deer in the headlights. Is this a trick question? Is this a trap?

I tentatively answered “cheesecakes” because my first job in the kitchen was at a coffee shop back in Vancouver that was voted the best cheesecakes in Vancouver.

“What do you need? I will order it for you,” Chef replied.

“Make mini ones, and we can serve it for the afternoon tea.” And so, when the graham crackers arrived, I made

cheesecakes, substituting sour cream with creme fraiche.

I am in awe and inspired by my Chef. He not only gets coffee for stagiers, but also lets me bake what I am good at baking. This contradicts all the horror stories of externs spending all the time picking herbs and supreming citrus (actually, I have done a fair bit of that as well). I am happy because I feel trusted and I feel like part of the team (I am sure all the teasing helped as well).

Speaking of teasing, here’s an entertaining bit of conversation about Chaussons aux pommes as we were making them.

Chef: “What do you call these?”

Me: “I think apple turnovers?”

Chef: “WHAT!?” *laughs loudly* Listen, these are CHAUSSONS AUX POMMES. Go and look for the story of chaussons aux pommes.”

Me: “Yes, Chef. How to spell chausson?”

Chef: “S...E...X...X...Y...”

Me: “Sexxy? Chef...actually, sexy is only spelled with one x.”

Chef: “Look here everyone! She has a dirty mind! I told her to spell chausson, but she wrote SEXXY in her notebook!”

At that point, I was laughing so much I was red. The next week in the morning, after handshakes and greetings, Chef asked me a question, “So, what recipe do you want to make this week?”

That woke me up more than coffee. “Do we have feuilletine and praline paste, Chef ?”

“We make our praline paste and I will order feuilletine for you.”

“Thank you, Chef ” Later that day, we made praline paste and I made the recipe of milk chocolate mousse from IPP.

an afterthought.” Having a beer program can make your restaurant more profitable, and supporting local breweries can help the economy. Chef Malouf says, “Any high end restaurant today, Per Se, Jean George, Aureole, high end bistros, or steakhouses, they all need to have a beer program.” Graduates will be able to use this knowledge in any aspect of the food service that they go into.

As a way to accommodate the growing population of students, Pangea, a pop up restaurant in the soon to be renovated CE East Wing Dining Room, will be opening this January. Malouf describes the food, “I like to call in the future of dining, we consider how it effects the environment, socioeconomic development of nations, how it’s grown, it’s conscientious dining, not vegetarian, but there is an emphasis on plant-based food.” Because there will be an emphasis on regional food, beer will be an integral component. There will be beer, wine, and cocktail pairings available on the menu daily.

If the public’s interest in food continues to grow, which thanks to social media, Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram, we can see that people have not only become more interested, but smarter and more conscientious. The beer business will continue to grow because customers think it’s delicious, it helps local communities, and there is nothing better than drinking a cold beer with your feet in the warm water on a tropical beach. As cooks, we may never get to enjoy the tropical beach, but the hot kitchen at the end of the night is at least a mediocre alternative.

The growth of beer could create solid regional identities for our country. There are wine trails and soon there will be beer trails. If you aren’t as excited as me about this, then imagine this: A crisp fall morning, the sun is shining through the morning fog, it’s reflecting off the leather seat on your new road bike, there are 103 micro breweries in New York State, and you have the next four weeks off.

The brewery will be open soon and you will be able to get a taste of all of this.

Hervé This Packs the House

BY: Jeff Levine, CIA Manager- Communications Eight-hundred CIA students, along with members of the general public, packed the Marriott Pavilion on the Hyde Park campus to see the legendary French chemist and culinary science expert who coined the term “molecular gastronomy.” Dozens more watched a demonstration by Hervé This (pronounced “Teess”) via teleconference Photo Courtesy of Jeff Levine from the San Antonio campus, where he showcased his culinary philosophy of “note-by-note” cuisine. During his visit, Dr. This also met with culinary science majors and held a book signing.

Dr. This is credited with coming up with the term “molecular gastronomy” in 1988 to describe the mechanism of culinary transformation during certain cooking processes. He has since become known as the godfather of the avant-garde—inspiring a generation of renowned chefs including Spain’s Ferran Adrià, England’s Heston Blumenthal, and America’s Grant Achatz ’94.

Few people in the culinary world have had as profound an effect on the way we look at and cook food as Hervé This, and his visit to the Hudson Valley was a rare opportunity for students and the public to hear from one of the world’s most influential food voices.

November 25, 2014

Events

Sunday

November 30, 2014-December 20, 2014

Monday

30 No Classes

1

9:15pm- Culinary Christian Fellowship 9:15pm- Culinary Voices Chorus Rehearsal

7

10am- Taste the Rhythm Dance Club 9pm- Guardians of the Galaxy

14

10am- Taste the Rhythm Dance Club

8

Student Government Elections 9:15pm-Culinary Christian Fellowship 9:15pm-CIA Paintball Coalition

15

9:15pm- Culinary Christian Fellowship 9:15pm- Culinary Voices 9:15pm- Patrick Curran of Momofuku

Tuesday

7pm- Taste the 2 Rhythm Dance Club 7pm-Eta Sigma Delta 9:15pm-Culinary Notes 9:15pm-Veterans Association & Auxiliary 9:15pm- La Papillote Open Meeting

9

7pm-Taste the Rhythm Dance Club 8:45pm-Korean Association 9pm-Culinarians Against Cancer 9:15pm-Veterans Assoc.

9:15pm-Slow Food 9:15pm-Culinary Notes

16

7pm- Taste the Rhythm Dance Club 7pm-Eta Sigma Delta 9:15pm-Culinary Notes 9:15pm-Veterans Association & Auxiliary

-Taste the Rhythm Dance Club- SRC, Group Fitness Room -Culinary Christian Fellowship- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -Culinary Notes- SRC, Multipurpose Room (East) -Veterans Association & Auxiliary- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -CHOP’T- SRC Pool Lounge

Library Learning Conrad N. Hilton Commons: Library Monday-Thursday: 7:00am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Friday: 7:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Campus Store Video Center Hours: Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00am10:00pm 6:00pm Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm

BY: Andrew Vinegar, AOS Culinary CIA Annual Thanksgiving Dinner Sponsored by Residence Life/CIA Chefs Thursday, November 27th, 2014 Farquharson Hall 5 pm -7 pm Are you unable to make it home this Thanksgiving and will be sticking around campus? Then you have something to be thankful for. The Office of Residence Life will be hosting the Annual Thanksgiving Dinner for the entire campus. Please come and join us, along with friends and the CIA family for dinner on Thursday, November 27th from 5 pm to 7 pm in Farquharson Hall.

The plans are to serve a traditional Thanksgiving dinner, with turkey, stuffing, and all the works. Please RSVP and advise Meka Harris, Residence Director of Rosenthal Hall, and the committee of any allergies and/or eating restrictions so that we can accommodate everyone.

This year, as you enter Farquharson for the dinner, Residence Life will be collecting donations of non-perishable food items and/or money to go to the local food banks this holiday season. Help make a local community’s

Wednesday

4:30pm-CHOP’T

3

Thursday

9:15pm-Bacchus Wine Society 9:15pm-Gay Straight Alliance Club 9:15pm- The Word Poetry Club 9:15pm- Club Con

9:15pm-SPICE 9:15pm-Black Culinarian Society 9:15pm-Guild of Tea 9:30pm- Culinary Voices Chorus Rehearsal

9:15pm-Bacchus 10 Wine Society 9:15pm-Gay Straight Alliance Club 9:15pm- The Word Poetry Club 9:15pm- Public SGA Meeting

9pm- BADA

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9:15pm-Bacchus Wine Society 9:15pm-Gay Straight Alliance Club 9:15pm- The Word Poetry Club

12

9pm-SPICE

9:15pm-Black

Saturday

6

1pm- Steels Basketball - Away 8pm- Holiday Village

13

Aladdin on Broadway 2pm- BasketballAway

Culinarian Society

9:15pm-Guild of Tea

9:30pm- Culinary Voices

18

BPS Graduation 9:15pm-SPICE 9:15pm-Black Culinarian Society 9:15pm-Guild of Tea

Hours of Operation

Apple Pie Monday-Friday: 7:30am-5:00pm (when classes are in session)

5

WRISTBANDS

-Bacchus Wine Society- Wine Spectator Classroom -Public SGA Meetings- SRC, Multipurpose Room -Gay Straight Alliance Club- Pick Lounge -The Word Poetry Club- SRC Pool Lounge -SPICE- SRC Conference Room -Black Culinarian Society- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -Guild of Tea- Admissions EcoLab Theater

Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:30pm

11

BINGO

Club Meeting Locations

Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends)

4

Friday

11

Plaza Cafe (Courtside) Monday-Thursday: 11:00am-11:00pm Friday: 11:00am-10:30pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:30pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm

Student Recreation Center Monday-Thursday: 7:00amMidnight Friday: 7:00am-10:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:00pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm

Upcoming Events

family’s winter a bit brighter this year.

Students, faculty, and staff, if you are planning on attending then please send an RSVP and any special requests to Meka Harris (m_harris@culinary.edu) ASAP. You will still be welcome to attend if you do not RSVP, but by doing so, it gives the committee a better idea of how many people to prepare for.

Holiday Village/CIA Market Place 2014 Sponsored by SPICE, Residence Life, and the Office of Student Activities Saturday, December 6, 2014 8 pm -12 am Student Commons Gym This year the CIA Market Place, which brings outside local businesses on campus to promote and sale products to students, will be working with this year’s Holiday Village. The Holiday Village will be everything the holiday season consists of. Come down to the gym and feasting on holiday cookies, soup, and drinks! Crafts such as ornament making and hot chocolate in a jar will be some of the activities present. A Hot Chocolate Bar will also be available for students to utilize once they

AOS Graduation

19

20

-CIA Paintball Coalition- SRC, Multipurpose Room -Korean Association- Wine Spectator Classroom -Culinarians Against Cancer- Admissions EcoLab Theater -Slow Food- Anheuser Busch Theater -Eta Sigma Delta- Admissions EcoLab Theater -La Papillote- SRC Conference Room -Club Con- Marriot Pavillion-Lower Level

Pool Hours Monday-Thursday: 10:00am1:00pm & 3:00pm-10:00pm Friday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-7:00pm Saturday & Sunday: Noon-7:00pm Resident Life Monday-Friday: 7:00am-5:00pm

(East)

Campus Safety Open 24 hours 7 Days a week Health Services Monday-Friday: 7:00am-8:45pm Career Services Monday-Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Drop in: 9:00am-1:00pm 2:00pm-4:00pm

create their own personalized mugs at one of the Holiday Booths. There will be lots of food and holiday fun you don’t want to miss!

Movies in Marriot: Guardians of the Galaxy Sponsored by SPICE Sunday, December 7, 2014 Marriot Pavilion 9 pm Come out and watch Guardians of the Galaxy in Marriott Pavilion! SPICE will be serving a Baked Potato Bar after the show.

Bada-Bingo 2014 and Pancake Bar Farquharson Hall 10 pm Friday, December 12th, 2014 CIA’s best holiday tradition is back! Bingo at its finest! The prizes are better than ever and this year there’s going to be a Pancake Bar following the festivities sponsored by SPICE. Chef Freddie B is going to be Father Time this year. Space is limited and you DO NOT want to be left out! Wristbands will be distributed Thursday, December 11, at 9 pm in the Student Commons.

12

LA PAPILLOTE

Graduation

AOS Graduation Speaker: Erik Battes ‘04 BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor

Photo Courtesy of Leslie Jennings

CIA alumnus Erik Battes is corporate executive chef for Philadelphia, PA-based Starr Restaurants, one of the largest multi-concept restaurant companies in the United States. Starr’s many concepts include Buddakan in Philadelphia, New York, and Atlantic City, as well as Morimoto in Philadelphia and New York. Before being promoted to his current position by restaurateur Stephen Starr in 2014, Chef Battes was executive chef at Morimoto in New York City, where he learned from master chef Masaharu Morimoto and put his lifelong fascination with Japanese cuisine to work.

Chef Battes got his start in the industry as a teenager, when he approached the Wolfgang Puck Café in Woodland Hills, CA and asked if he could work there for free.

With this kitchen experience under his belt, he enrolled at The Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, NY. While a student, Erik completed his externship at JeanGeorges in New York City and trailed at other iconic restaurants, including Daniel, Le Bernardin, Aquavit, and Chanterelle.

After graduating from the CIA in 2004 with an associate degree in culinary arts, Chef Battes returned home to California and worked for a short time as a line cook for Michael Cimarusti ’91 at Water Grill. He then came back to the East Coast to work on the line at Jean-Georges. In

2005, Chef Battes served as opening sous chef for Perry Street, Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s restaurant in New York’s West Village. After two years, he was promoted to chef de cuisine and helped earn the restaurant a Michelin star.

Chef Battes left Perry Street to become corporate executive chef at BLT Restaurants/ESquared Hospitality, where, for nearly three years, he oversaw 18 concept launches everywhere from New York and Los Angeles to Hawaii and Chicago. In 2012, he was recruited by Chef Vongerichten to serve as chef de cuisine for the threeMichelin-star flagship Jean-Georges at Columbus Circle in New York—the same location where Chef Battes had taken his CIA externship. It wasn’t long before Chef Battes was named to Zagat’s “30 Under 30” list, and in 2013, he was named executive chef at Morimoto.

Chef Battes serves on the Culinary Advisory Board of The Gohan Society, an organization whose mission is to foster an understanding and appreciation of Japan’s culinary heritage in the United States through outreach to chefs, culinary arts professionals, and all who admire and enjoy Japanese culture.

AOS Graduating Class of November 25, 2014

Culinary Arts Group #1

Front Row: Sung Woo Cho, Erica Lackemann, Tiange Xiao Back Row: Aaron Tarpley, Nicholas Eggleston, Matthew Velasquez, Brittany Naucke

Culinary Arts Group #3

Front Row: Ryan Welshhon, Maria Gomez Fierro, Tori Perry, Ki Ran Kim, Courtney Isaac, Amanda Hummon Back Row: Mark Pospischil, Robert Tompkins, Jehan Luth, Erik Haag, Richard J. Longo

Culinary Arts Group #2

Front Row: Michael De Seta, Jung Hwan Kim, Brandon Calderon, Sayat Ozyilmaz Back Row: Yong Ki Jang, Aziz Zaidi, Scott Schetselaar, Daniel Weber, Laura Millan

Baking & Pastry

Front Row: Hyelin Park, Eun Bee Lee, Carrie Smith, Karen Davalos, Madina Hashemi, Trang Tran, Theres Sigona Back Row: Aditi Zaveri, Elora Romano, Kaitlyn O’Brien, Deirdre Rieutort-Louis, Jaclyn Corr, Kathryn Krause, Dominique Neal, Allison Seelaus, Kaitlyn O’Dell, Jonathan Leman, Megan Feeney