Volume 36, No.07
May 22 2015
‘Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life’ - Expo Milano 2015 BY: Kevin Markey, ACE Culinary
I am writing this from the plane coming back from Milan, Italy. Today is May 10th, 2015; I have just spent the last five days as a ‘gournalista’, a press-pass clad representative of the CIA at the world’s stage for the future of food: Expo Milano 2015. This year over 150 countries attended, from Afghanistan to Zimbabwe, and everywhere in between. With each country bringing not only their unique food, but also their ideas of how to better the world through all the glories of food. I cannot emphasize enough the importance of this event, with the theme of ‘Feeding the Planet, Energy for Life’. For the next five and half months, through to October 31st, Milan will be THE place to be to discover a world of food. It is literally the whole world’s food in one place. And by one place, I mean a massive outdoor complex totaling over 1.1 million square meters (the same as Disneyland). But yet, I covered most of it, and in just four days I was able to eat cured horse meat from Kazakhstan, Belgian fries, Peking duck, Swiss chocolate, Italian saffron risotto, Dutch meatballs, Czech pilsner (not food I know, but common, when in Milan right?). I even indulged and had some Russian Caviar. I also had a whole lot of cheese and prosecco. If you have ever had a reason to save a couple grand here it is. Since a two-day pass into the park is only fifty-five Euros, summer break in Italy should be on everyone’s mind. It was difficult to pick one place to start as I was on information overload the entire sixty hours I spent on site. Walking through the center aisle you look left and see China’s massive 15,000 square foot pavilion and looking right, just across the way, you see little Kuwait. Kuwait shipped in 150 tons of their own sand, to build their pavilion. Not ironically their theme is; ‘Water: The Challenge of Nature’. This tiny country the size of Maryland has seven desalinization plants, which produce 463 million gallons of fresh water every day. News flash; you cannot grow crops without water (Idiocracy anybody?) That is what I am talking about here folks; innovation. What is next? Wind turbines that cover the coastlines? Yep, there is a pavilion here about that. Converting every rooftop in the world into a farm? Yep, there is that too. Even McDonald’s and Coca Cola are here. Why you ask; would companies such as these be attending The World Fair? Well, my first thought was; what better way to create more customers than to attend a fair about food? Just
“Out on the Terrace”
another corporate money making scheme right? So the first day I refused to visit their pavilions, just out of liberal-commie spite (never know; they could try to brainwash me into liking their products). But I had to be sure. So on the last day I went to say hello… more like really put my press credentials to work and see if I could uncover the truth. And… after attempting to dig a little, was able to get myself kicked (more like the manager very politely handed me a business card and giving me his European ‘sorry’ smile) out of the McDonalds pavilion. But not before finding out they serve food to; a record 70 million people every day. That is right; McDonald’s is the largest restaurant chain in the world. And that got me thinking. What if the golden arches was to change their platform? What if, they made the concentration of their mission statement about sustainability? I mean think about it: what Ford did to the assembly line at the turn of the century, McDonalds did with the birth of fast-food in the 50’s. Is it not possible then for a corporation with such reach, to shift policies and have another major influence on the change of food? I wanted to ask these questions to someone of importance from McDonalds. However, I was passed off to some midlevel PR rep. I know I am reaching with McDonalds turning the leaf to sustainability, but why not reach? Why not pick the impossible and try and fathom its existence? That is the only way to change something
“Season for Strawberries”
that is already accomplished, right? . I can only try to describe the atmosphere at the Expo, because to truly grasp its size you must see it in person. If you think you have seen crowds before, whether it be at Six Flags or in the streets of Manhattan (okay, sure, there are more people in New York, no ...continued on page 6
China Pavilion: “Land of Hope, Food for Life” photo courtsey of Kevin Markey
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P 4-5
USA Pavilion: “United to Feed the Planet” photo courtsey of limitlessundyinglove_skip
CENTER SPREAD
“Innovation Station”
P 6-7
“The Bottom Line”
BACK PAGE
P 8-9
P 12
“Chef ’s Table”
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LA PAPILLOTE
Editorial
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
May 22, 2015
From the Editor’s Desk: Yellowed Pages and Golden Memories
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Yi Si (Crystal) Tan LAYOUT EDITOR Thiana Anderson ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Emilio Cerra Asher Chong Katie Fenton Regina Guitierrez Arreguin Jeff Levine Sarah Lubitz
Kevin Markey Nicholas McCall Maddy Morrison Sera Park Benjamin Wolff
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Connor White, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
A couple weeks ago, a friend recommended to me a perfume called “Dead Writers” by a perfume company, Sweet Tea Apothecary. According to the product description of “Dead Writers”, the blend of black tea, vetiver, clove, musk, vanilla and tobacco should evoke the feeling of sitting in an old library chair with yellowed copies of Hemingway, Shakespeare, Fitzgerald, Poe and more. She said she feels like I would enjoy smelling of old books. She is completely correct. That is why I was so excited to happen upon a filing cabinet in La Papillote office. I imagine “Dead Writers” must be what the filing cabinets filled with all the past issues of La Papillote smells like. These drawers are packed full of past issues dating back all the way to 1979! One leisurely afternoon, I made myself a cup of black tea, and opened the portal to the past. It was magical to flip through past issues, with the vastly different fonts and styles. The name of the publication was even changed to The Culinary Leader at one point, and eventually changed back to La Papillote. (In the December 1982 there was a contest held to change the name of La Papillote to a new name, with the prize of dinner at American Bounty for two. However, in the end the majority of the votes are to keep the name La Papillote. Not letting the prize go to waste, it was awarded to the worst name, Sal Picon) Opening these fragile pages, the dust motes floating upwards seemed like fairy dust. These past issues are time capsules with snapshots of life at CIA. They have the capability to bring me through the history of the CIA, all the way back to 1979. As I leafed through the past issues, I recognized many familiar events. Events such as the chili and pizza cook off were and still are described with as much enthusiasm and
excitement by writers past and present. The winners still have a photo taken with the prize checks. Clubs such as the Gourmet Society can be recognized with active club events throughout the years. Even recreational activities such as the Six Flags trip dates all the way back to when Six Flags was called Great Adventures. The pages in the newspaper dedicated to recognizing graduates with photos and names have never changed. I recognized many chefs and professors that are alumni here. It is hard to imagine that they were once students like us but the photos of their graduations have the same happy smiles as the graduates of the last issue. The graduation speakers were always featured, such as in 1996 with Julia Child as the BPS graduation speaker. Michel Roux, who just spoke on April 27th has also been on campus June 23rd 1995, twenty years ago. There have always been Chef interviews conducted by students, and I suppose, we are still very curious about our Chef Instructors, the people we look up to every day. It made me smile to read about my Baking and Pastry Techniques’ chef, Chef Coppedge, still enjoys the same dessert, sweet potato pie, that he told our class a year ago. There have definitely been many changes at CIA since 1979. But I can see the spirit of aspiring chefs through all the past issues of La Papillote. As the times change, and we get more colored pages, La Papillote is still the voice of students that reflects the passion of the CIA community.
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations
Maura A. King Director-Compliance
Title IX and Age Discrimination
Section 504/ADA
Office: Roth Hall Room S324
Office: Roth Hall Room S351
Telephone: 845-451-1314
Telephone: 845-451-1429
Email: J_morano@culinary.edu
Email: m_king@culinary.edu
Nico Dellenback Director of Campus Outreach
Thiana A. Anderson Layout Editor
Kevin Markey Social Media Editor
Sarah Lubitz Copy Editor
The Culinary Institute of America 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538 Should you require further information, please visit http://ciachef.edu/consumerinformation.
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May 22, 2015
BY: Katie Fenton, BPS Culinary
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Out on the Terrace
A new semester has bloomed, and if you follow my articles, you know that I am all about soaking up the precious moments. This is my final semester here at the CIA, and before I go in July, it is my hope that the last of these moments on 1946 Campus Drive will not be wasted. So despite me knowing that the voice of a newspaper article should be more formal, I believe this one should be a bit different. I am going to tell you about my morning the other day. The new point system on campus has helped me cope with the loss of mornings in Italy on my Global Cuisines and Cultures Trip. Just a few weeks ago, I was standing at a bar (they call cafes bars in Italy), ordering “un caffè ” (an espresso) for two Euro. So the other day, I wanted to get myself a strong cup of coffee that would wake me up gentler than my alarm attempted to. I went over to Apple Pie and ordered myself a double espresso. I sat down and took my time, taking in each sip of rich, deepness that carried me even after I had finished. Of course I had my usual along with it: a warmed buttermilk biscuit with spiced apple butter. I was more than satisfied: quietly sitting at a table, enjoying the tranquility of 8 am. When there was nothing left but leftover crema in the espresso cup and a plate of crumbs, I decided to take advantage of the sunshine that I wouldn’t see until five o’clock. It was about to be my first day working in the Publishing Department on campus, assisting in the editing process of the 10th edition of The Professional Chef. I walked out onto the terrace, and this is where I found my story for this issue. I created one of my last classes here myself (along with the assistance of one of my greatest inspirations, Professor Murphy). I designed an independent study focused
on the food, wine, and agriculture of the Hudson Valley. The independent study work involves me researching, participating in, and writing about this topic. I’ve begun the research process, currently reading “The Hudson: A History” by Tom Lewis to gain some insight on how it all started. I put my Ray Bans on and walked to one of the terrace gazebos to read. It was the quiet before the storm; I sat down and got comfortable. A soft breeze lifted the corners of the pages as I read, revealing the secrets of the river that has always seemed so mysterious to me. The fountains were showering their morning nectar. It was one of the most peaceful moments I’ve had at school. As I sat, I wondered why I had never thought to come out onto the terrace before. We all began as prospective students. As tourists, the terrace above the parking garage is a go-to. Tours mosey around, admiring the view of the Hudson and the fountains that rain water onto the pavement, snapping pictures in front of the great entrance of Roth Hall. However, once we become students, we mark that spot as “tourists only” territory. It’s a rare occasion that I go onto the terrace. But this doesn’t have to be the case. I believe that as students, we should be taking advantage of all of the resources that there are to offer on campus, including the terrace. The mornings during this time of year are absolutely beautiful: not too hot, not too cold, and because it’s the morning, it’s quiet. Sitting out on the terrace gives us the opportunity to wake up for a few minutes. You can have a coffee out there, read, maybe even do some work. I’m not trying to sell the terrace to readers. I’m trying to open minds to acknowledge some of the things that can slip past us when we’re not looking. It’s not just the terrace--It’s the library filled with endless books on food and archives. It’s the courtyard just outside of Apple Pie.
photo courtsey of Katie Fenton It’s the channel of networking that you can create and the things that you can do outside of class to make the most of being here. All of a sudden, I looked up and realized it was my last semester at CIA. It happens quicker than you think. As I faced the river, I breathed in the countless opportunities that I have going to school here, in the breadbasket of New York. I looked down at my watch: it was time for me to go to work.
The Hidden Author, The Culinary Institute of America BY: Sera Park, AOS Baking and Pastry If you look carefully at The Professional Chef, Mastering the Art and Craft of Baking and Pastry, and the other culinary textbooks issued to each student, you will notice that the author is listed as “The Culinary Institute of America.” These books are not only used by culinary students, but also by consumers seeking to better their culinary skills. What most students do not realize is that there is a team of employees at the CIA dedicated to developing, editing, and publishing a multitude of new books, as well as new editions of existing texts. There are seven main positions in the publishing department. The Director of Publishing supervises the whole department. She manages both professional and consumer books, negotiates contracts with publishers and authors, develops book ideas, and oversees the publishing budget. The Editorial Project Manager works directly with authors to develop their books and directs food styling for photo and video shoots. She also edits the contents of books. The Recipe Testing Manager directs the work of test kitchen staff, including the MIT, externs, and student workers. She focuses on individual recipes, maintains contact with chefs and authors for their input, and ensures that the method within the recipe is appropriate for the intended audience. The photographer takes photographs of finished dishes, as well as process and product identification shots. The MIT manages the day-to-day work in the test kitchen and directs externs with recipe testing and development. He works with the managers to identify and develop recipes for testing. The externs test recipes and record changes to ingredients and cooking methods. A
small group of hourly student workers provide assistance with recipe testing and editorial tasks such as research or formatting. There is a considerable amount of effort needed to transform a book from an initial concept to a polished publication. The first step is to brainstorm ideas for a book. Usually, at this step, about ten percent of the project concept is finalized. Once an appropriate author is found, CIA Publishing develops the recipes, photos, and informational content. They fully develop the content and organize it in a format that is usable by the publisher. The
external publisher checks spelling, punctuation, grammar, and clarity. Next, the publisher does the design and layout of the book and sends it back to CIA Publishing. CIA Publishing reviews the proofs to check content and placement of tables, figures, and photos. Chefs and authors are also consulted to ensure that all content is accurate. Once the author, chefs, and publishing staff are all satisfied with the book, it is sent to the publisher for printing, and is destined for the eager hands of students and home cooks alike.
LA PAPILLOTE
4
BY: Maddy Morrison, AOS Culinary
Season For Strawberries
Wandering among the patches of small red fruit and picking only the best to take home for a sweet snack later is truly the mark of summertime. Strawberry season starts the first week of June in the Hudson Valley when warmer days outnumber colder days and coats become more of an option
than a necessity. About twenty-five miles down the road is a friendly little farm that grows different crops. Of their crops, they grow plenty of fruits for the public to handpick. Fishkill Farm is a local farm that has been in the Morgenthau family for nearly one hundred years. They have endured bad seasons, and many great ones, but after much trial and error, have come up with plenty of crops for their fifteen-acre farm. Fishkill Farm is open seven days a week, from 9am until 6pm. Upon entering the fields it seems as if it would take a significantly long time to peruse and pick through all the fruits, picking the best ones for a strawberry rhubarb pie or a simple shortcake. But a day spent at the fields is a most enjoyable and relaxing one. Provided is a quick strawberry muffin recipe, one of my favourite treats to make and eat, using freshly picked strawberries!
Yields approximately 12 strawberry muffins
1 2/3 cups of fresh strawberries 2/3 cups white granulated sugar 1/3 cups vegetable oil 2 ea. eggs 1/2 tsp vanilla extract 1 1/2 cups all purpose flour 1/2 tsp baking soda 1/2 tsp salt 1/2 tsp cinnamon 1. Preheat oven to 425 F, and place a paper lining cup in each of 12 regular-size muffin cups, or grease just the bottoms of 12 muffin cups. 2. Slightly smash strawberries in large bowl, using fork. 3. Stir in sugar, oil, vanilla, and eggs until mixed. 4. Stir in remaining ingredients just until moistened. 5. Spoon batter into muffin cups. 6. Bake 15 to 18 minutes or until light golden brown or toothpick poked in center comes out clean. 7. Cool 5 minutes. For more information on Fishkill farms go on to: http:// www.fishkillfarms.com/faq.ht
Foraging for Ramps
BY: Asher Chong, AOS Culinary
photo courtsey of Maddy Morrison
CIA Students Win Business Plan Competition…Again BY: Jeff Levine, Staff Contributor
photo courtsey of freshandfoodie.com Foraging is something I hold close to my heart. Growing up, my family had a summer home in Michigan and I can still remember picking wild berries from thorny bushes. It was always a treat to eat the berries right from its source. Nothing could beat the taste of a freshly harvested blueberry. Unfortunately, I lost touch with foraging when I moved to Singapore. I was trapped in an urban jungle and with little to no wildlife. I only got back to foraging when I enlisted in the Army. We were forced to learn how to forage for survival in jungles. The plants that we gathered were edible but tasted horrible. However my LOVE for foraging was rekindled when I started school here. Ramp season was approaching and a couple of my friends and I decided that foraging was a great way to spend a Saturday afternoon. We went out on multiple trips on the weekends, searching upstate New York for ramps. It was not as easy as we thought it would be, but once we found our first batch of ramps it seemed to get a lot
easier. Ramps (also known as wild leeks) are a member of the allium family. They tend to grow in patches or clumps. Their bulbs taste like a cross between an onion and garlic. In my opinion, their leaves taste like an extremely spicy arugula leaf. They can be prepared in a variety of ways such as oven roasting, pickled, steamed or even raw, though my favorite method of preparation is still sautéed in duck fat. The more I got into foraging ramps, the more I learned. I was reading heavily into foraging ramps and even though it is such a simple plant, I discovered so much about them. Even though foraging ramps is great, sustainability is also extremely important. A general guideline while foraging to ensure sustainability– you don’t want to harvest more than 10% of a cluster of ramps or 25% of a patch of ramps. If these guidelines are followed, ramps will be available for foraging next season and subsequent seasons after that. As ramp season draws to a close, I look back and remember how great the feeling was pulling out my first ramp. It will always be something I’ll be looking forward to every spring!
CIA student teams took two first place awards at the third annual Mid-Hudson Regional Business Plan Competition in April. Thirty-five teams from nine institutions participated in pitching business plans to judges from the banking, investment, non-profit, and business community. Several other teams included business majors and MBA candidates. The CIA fielded two teams: one in the Products and Services—Food category and one in the Non-Profit category. In fact, the food category was added this year after CIA student successes in the services category in the first two years of the competition. The separate food category now gives students from other colleges a chance to win in other service sector areas. Not surprisingly, first place in the food category went to a CIA team. Jaron Mentok, Max Fisher, and Tom Napolitano developed a business plan for Gaijin, a fast casual noodle bowl concept. First place in the non-profit category went to BLEND bracelets, developed by Brendan Hudson. Profits from sales of his high-quality beaded bracelets will be donated to pediatric cancer centers. All four students are juniors pursuing their CIA bachelor’s degrees in management. Mentok, Fisher, and Hudson are also students in the new “Intrapreneurship” academic concentration, which teaches business innovation within an organization. After winning the regional competition, both teams advanced to the state finals in Albany.
May 22, 2015
5
BY: Benjamin Wolff, BPS Culinary Approaching my first restaurant as an aspiring food critic at the acclaimed restaurant, Sushi Makio was a slightly nerve-racking experience. Good service, as well as light music made for a good environment. The simple décor paired well with their simple white tablecloth and an open sushi bar. Warm towels were served along with complimentary Honjozo sake and water. The Honjozo was light, simple bodied and very sweet; complimenting the white fish very nicely. Many must be wondering, what makes Makio so great? What’s the reason behind the success of this sushi restaurant? Mr. Makio is the chef and he has been in the industry since he was an ankle biter. Now being an elder, his knowledge and skills are extraordinary. His slicing of the avocado and the delicate plating of every garnish on every roll has exceeded my expectations. The prices are a little more than the average sushi restaurant, but the food has reached many pinnacles that others in the Hudson valley have not. I started with a wakame salad (cold seaweed salad) that had a good balance and flavor profiles of sweet and salty. Alongside the salad was the special of
Sushi Makio
Toro Sushi
photo courtsey of Benjamin Wolff
Memories of Home
BY: Regina Gutierrez Arreguin, AOS Culinary
“Hey! You should come to our party tonight!” “Do you want to watch a movie tomorrow?” “Regina, over here. Sit with us.” “Are you coming to our barbecue this Sunday?” During the week, these invitations keep me busy. Not to say I’m the most popular girl on campus, but I can easily say I’ve made a lot of friends from different countries, different entry dates, and different degrees. Each person I meet reminds me of home, like the way Chef Reilly says “It’s alright,” whenever he tries our food. It reminds me of each time my abuela used to cook a meal and my abuelo said it was “Maso menos,” but never excellent. This motivated me in the kitchen to push myself harder and get Chef Reilly to say, at the very least, “It’s good.” Another time, when K-16 was serving quesadillas, I immediately thought back to when I was eighteen. I would return at 2 AM from a night with my friends at the club, and my mom would be waiting for me in la cocina. She had el comal ready to make her authentic quesadillas. I could always smell the slightly burnt cheese, and the tangy freshness of salsa verde when I stepped into the house, high heels in hand. After winter break, I got sick and I had to stay in bed for a couple of days. It was not until then that I realized how much I missed my mom’s consome de pollo. The
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comforting smell of chicken broth, the tenderness of the carrots, the soft strings of chicken, and the lightness of the liquid itself made me feel better every time. Laying in my dorm, alone, with a Gatorade in hand, once again made me want to be back. At home, my sister and I go to the gym together. Once we get on the elliptical, she starts exercising her fingers by playing on her phone. I spotted someone at the student center last week doing the same. I miss my sister. There’s always something here at CIA that reminds me of home. After all, it is where I have spent twenty years of my life, or in other words, my whole life. But, of course, I keep in mind why I left in the first place: to become a great chef and obtain the best education possible within this field. So, I can classify all the invitations I accept into the following categories: 1. Ones where I’m actually having fun 2. Ones that keep me busy from the homesick memories 3. Ones that end up reminding me of how much I miss Mexico They all bring me new experiences I would never obtain anywhere else. Being homesick can be the main cause of my depression sometimes, but it is also my motivation to push myself harder within the kitchen, my social life, and taking care of myself. I know it is hard, but it will only be worth it if I make it worth it.
2600 South Road (Route 9) 845.454.3505 Poughkeepsie Plaza (Near Marshall’s)
the night, which was a wasabi shumai with pork filling. Quite impressive to say the least, the balance of sweet, salty, and spicy from the wasabi dough wrapped around classic Asian pork filling infused my mouth with amazing flavors. The next course I receive two pieces of unagi, an Alaskan salmon roll (fresh salmon) and a “TNT” Roll. The unagi was well cooked soft, fatty and slightly flakey, with a delicious eel sauce and the rice was soft and perfectly cooked as well. The salmon in the Alaskan roll was fresh and buttery, melting in my mouth. But the best part of the night was my first bite into the TNT roll, behind the complimentary sake of course. The TNT roll had spicy tuna and cucumber inside and unagi, avocado, spicy mayo, and eel sauce garnished with sesame seeds on the outside. The textures that hit my pallet worked very well together. Especially when paired with the sweet yet light bodied sake. Our last course was toro, it was 15 dollars for two pieces of sushi the fatty, thick, tangy, piece of tuna just melted in my mouth. It was quite an impressive sight to see with layers upon layers of fat. In the end, although it may have been out of a college student’s price range, if you are going to spend an extra buck or two on some delicious sushi, Makio is definantlely a place to cross of your bucket list.
Intramural Softball Standings
1st Place
The Team
2nd Place
Hit for Brains
chef/staff-3-1 3rd Place
Hit It- 2-1
4th Place
Ohana- 0-2
5th Place
Res Life- 0-3
5th Place
Bakeshop 1-
0-2 5th Place
T-team- 0-2
6th Place
Master Batters-
0-3
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LA PAPILLOTE
CENTER SPREAD
Expo Milano 2015
continued from page 1
doubt) but with an expected twenty million visitors over the course the summer, that is roughly 120,000 people a day. Every day there are lectures on ‘Slow Food’ and future food tech in different areas. Most are in Italian, but there were the occasional English ones and I went to a few. But, I did find some comfort inside the American pavilion. The entire height and length of the outside of the building is covered in large panels, each rotating with the sun, and holding inside them kale, chard, lettuce, berries, and root vegetables. A vertical farm that is a mix of soil and hydroponics. A closed loop system that reuses water, monitors daily sunlight and only uses nutrients as needed, ensuring that waste becomes a thing of the past. This is the future of farming, and therefore will become the norm for the future sustainable members of the restaurant industry. . The Cluster pavilions are regionally specific; spices, fruits and legumes, cereals and tubers, rice, cocoa, coffee, arid zones, islands and seafood. The coffee cluster was represented by El Salvador, Guatemala, Kenya, Rwanda, and Yemen. The chocolate cluster was represented by Cameroon, Cuba, Ghana, Gabon, and Cote d’Ivoire. One of my favorite pavilions, however, is the Future Food District. Essentially it is a Jetson’s supermarket. With flat screens in front of every food item, all you have to do is point to the item you are interested in and the motion sensors pick up what you are pointing at, then all of the information about that item comes up on the screen. The ingredient list, where each ingredient came from, all of the nutrition info, cost of production, all of the information is on the screen. Yes, it is high tech, and maybe a little over the top, but the availability of information is what is
Tree of Life and Italian Pavilion photo courtsey of Kevin Markey
Expo Milano 2015 photo courtsey of Kevin Markey
most important. Though I did ask about the cost of it all (and once again was turned away with a business card and a smile). Sure I can see one of these futuristic stores in NYC or LA, but are they really going to put one in Johannesburg or Mexico City? I really only have two issues with the Expo; there is not quite enough emphasis on the real food problem; hunger. Sure, they have a couple of places mentioning how by 2050 the world’s population is expected to exceed 9 billion. And sure they mention how we will need to increase agricultural production 60% to accommodate. But the Expo also disguises the serious problems with a little more kid friendly version. It is like Doomsday, only rated PG. So much so that there are throngs of school children, a parade twice a day with colorful mascots, and two parks with food shaped place structures. I am not saying that educating the future generations about the global issues on food is not important. All I’m getting at is; that we should not sugar coat it too much. At the same time, there was definitely a feeling of bourgeois undertones in what is basically a food theme park. There is extravagance everywhere. Every building is an architectural masterpiece with state of the art technology. Only two of the countries pavilions were privately funded, one of which was the United States (shocker). Almost 150 countries used taxpayer dollars for this endeavor, instead of investing into infrastructure, agricultural or otherwise, to improve the condition of their country. Speaking of extravagance, inside of the Galleria Mall, a huge hallow glass and metal shopping complex in the center of Milan, the James Beard Foundation opened a restaurant for the duration of the Expo. Every week the theme changes, and a new chef is flown out to cook. I was lucky enough to attend on my last night in Milan, and the dinner prepared by Chefs Mark Ladner and Brooks Headley of Del Posto in New York. And, while I had to shell out the one hundred euros to attend it was worth every semi-inflated dollar. I was even luckier when I was seated with the chefs of the next week, Evan Hanczor from Egg, in Brooklyn. Dinner was phenomenal and
afterwards I was invited out to drinks with Mark and Brooks, and while I sipped from the largest Negroni you have ever seen we discussed their experiences of cooking Italian-American food in Italy for Italians and Americans alike. The last week seems like a dream now, an incredible dream that was afforded to me by the CIA. I never would have heard about Expo if it were not for the CIA. And, I never would have actually made the trip had it not been for my ever increasing hunger for food knowledge and experiences. If you take one point out this article, other than the fact that the world is desperately in need of a new food system, it would be that the time you spend here at the institute is precious, and the opportunity is now. We have made it this far and the next step, whatever it may be for you, is right around the corner. Be adventurous, be daring, and don’t doubt your capabilities. (Insert cliché here.)
Questions, problems, concerns, please contact Dining Services
Vertical garden at the USA pavilion photo courtsey of Kevin Markey
May 22, 2015
7
Innovation Station BY: Emilio Cerra, AOS Culinary As our culinary world continues to advance, the expectations of the people working in this field, whether as a cook, a manager, or any other position, also increases. It has become more and more important every day to be as prepared as possible in order to increase ones chances of landing that star gig they are on the hunt for. In order to help students with this, the Culinary Institute of America has continued to increase the available programs for students to enroll in, particularly in the post-AOS area. The newest addition to the Bachelors program is the Intrapreneurship concentration for the BPS in Culinary Arts Management (the concentration officially being called “Intrapreneurship: Driving Innovation from Within an Organization”). The program has a pretty catchy opening description on the CIA website: “Develop the skills you need to bring major creative foodservice proposals to life for a major corporation. Want to pitch, develop, and run a successful operation as part of your education experience? Now you can, with the new Intrapreneurship: Driving Innovation from Within an Organization concentration.” According to Dr. Annette Graham**, the “cornerstone of the new Intraprenuership Concentration” is the Innovation Station that will open soon in the up-and-coming Egg. It will be a place for students to showcase their thesis of sorts: a fully functional quick-casual restaurant concept. The program will take place over a three-semester period, but will be divided into two major components. During the first two semesters, the process will begin by developing concept ideas as part of teams before actually pitching said concepts to a panel. The panel will consist of faculty members including Provost Erikson, Ed Brown of Restaurant Associates, and Vice President Spurling. For the current group, this has all already happened. Out of the five concepts that were pitched, one stood out in particular to all involved in the choosing process, a Mexican “street food” concept. Selection of the concept was based on ideas of viability, such as whether they “meet what the consumer wants” and whether it is a well constructed, The restaurant is slated to open a few days after the start of the September semester (9/8/15) and will run through until the beginning of the January semester (1/16).
“good concept”, according to Dr. Graham. After the concept is selected, all the students (approximately twenty of them) work together to develop the menu and recipes, work on the marketing plan, as well as the financial plan. The students will learn about the budgeting and financially planning that goes into opening a restaurant. However, the equipment that will be used will be what is available at the Egg already. Dr. Graham expressed that “the goal is for [the restaurant] to, hopefully, show a profit.” In order to do so, the students will need to control costs and expenses as well as develop benchmarks for food and beverage cost.
The Egg floor plan. photo courtsey of the CIA
The Innovation Station space in The Egg. photo courtsey of Thiana Anderson Finally, the third and last semester will be devoted entirely to actually running the restaurant. Apart from a few managerial positions filled by Restaurant Associate employees, the “students are the ones managing the property,” says Dr. Graham. The students will be in charge of employee and production scheduling, ordering product, the financials, as well as both employee and financial evaluations, including fixing any problems that arise. There also are other student work positions available that would involve working the day-to-day aspects of the restaurant.
Restaurant Associates, according to their website, is “recognized as the nation’s premier hospitality company” and operates in New York City, Boston, Hartford, Atlanta, Washington D.C., Philadelphia and Toronto.” The company is based in New York City and is a subsidiary of Compass Group North America. Restaurant Associates is spearheading the development of the Egg and also currently run Plaza Café (hopefully the Egg will be received with better criticism than that of Plaza Café). Ed Brown, the “chef/ innovator” of the company, “leads the culinary charge for Restaurant Associates injecting his restaurant expertise into all aspects of their portfolio.” Not only is Mr. Brown a CIA alumus, he is also on the selection panel deciding which restaurant concept is chosen to be developed in the Intrapreneurship concentration.
Hyde Park Campus Hosts Beverage Symposium
BY: Jeff Levine, Staff Contributor
The second annual Beverage Symposium was held at the Hyde Park campus in April, providing students with information about career options in the beverage side of the hospitality industry as well as how to use beverage programs to increase restaurant profits. Associate Professor Douglass Miller, Professor John Fischer, and Beverage Manager Noelle Guagliardo put together a program that involved more than a dozen beverage-related sessions. Lectures, demos, and tasting topics included the culture of beverage service, Italian wine, a panel discussion of bartending professionals, a tea lecture and tasting, and a presentation by Brooklyn Brewery Brewmaster Garret Oliver. The event culminated with a cocktail building competition and cheese and beer tasting (for students age 21 and older). Nearly every venue was standing room only in what has quickly become a very popular educational program.
photo courtsey of CIA
LA PAPILLOTE
8
Interview with Chef Jon “Benno” Oltz
BY: Nicholas McCall, AOS Culinary
The Hudson Valley is a unique culinary haven, due in part to the CIA’s presence, but also to the lush, vibrant farm and agriculture scene. For this reason, many young graduates of the CIA decide that there is no reason to leave right away, cutting their teeth on the competitive culinary scene that is peppered all throughout the valley. The result is a unique relationship between farms and restaurants, pioneered by the young energetic chefs produced right here. I interviewed Jon “Benno” Oltz and his wife Kelsey LeRocque-Oltz, a CIA couple who currently work side by side at Mercato, Osteria and Enoteca, an authentic Italian farm to table restaurant in nearby Red Hook, spearheaded by multiple James Beard award semifinalist Francesco Buitoni. Jon has a unique perspective on food in the Hudson Valley, having grown up here before launching his career from the CIA and getting appointed as sous chef at Mercato. I asked him a few questions about his experience at CIA, what farm to table really means, and why it is so prevalent in the Hudson Valley. LP: Why has farm to table become so widespread in the Hudson Valley? What does it mean to be farm to table in the day-to-day at Mercato? JO: The Hudson Valley is one of the easiest places in the country to be farm to table due to the sheer quantity of farms and the number of young people that are taking it upon themselves to get into farming here in the valley. There has been a real farming movement in the last few years as it has become more hip, and more young people really want to take the sourcing of their food seriously. LP: How does that affect the farm to table scene in the Hudson Valley? Is it different from locally sourcing in other parts of the country?
JO: I think there is a certain amount of trust between farms and restaurants here. Farmers trust the fact that we will take their produce and treat it with the same respect and care that they took in growing it. I also think that people get confused about what farm to table is. LP: How so? JO: People forget that farm to table doesn’t necessarily equate to being good or high quality, or even local. If you have product shipped from California to your restaurant here [in the Hudson Valley], that is still grown on a farm and is technically farm to table, but it’s not local, and may not be in the same excellent condition that we have grown to expect in this area. That said, anywhere you go there will be local food purveyors, it just comes down to the relationship between local providers and the restaurants around them. LP: How has your experience studying at CIA and then staying in the area affected your professional life? JO: I think that the connections I made at CIA have popped up in the Hudson Valley, but that will be true anywhere you go. You never know where people are going to end up. So while you’re in school, make sure you don’t
The façade of Mercato, Osteria and Enoteca in Red Hook, NY photo courtsey of http://www.mercatoredhook.com
burn any bridges, you never know, who you’re bumping into could be your next business partner. Keep connections with your chefs, they’re full of useful advice and experience and you never know if they may be able to help you later on.
LP: Is there anything you would like to convey to current CIA students aside from the importance of networking? JO: That you’ll only get out of school what you put into it. There’s no second chance at taking these courses and they go by so quickly. Really put your heart into school, because it will yield great dividends. You never know where you could go or what your future projects will be, but if you put real work into your time there, it will show throughout your career. I’d also encourage them to keep an open mind, what you think you want now may not be what you want a couple of years out of school. Keep making the food that makes you happy, and follow your bliss. When I started out, I thought I wanted to be in exclusive haute cuisine kitchens, working towards being a high profile chef. I now realize that I really want to make the food that makes me happy, and by extension, make my customers happy.
CIA Tennis Team Takes 2nd In HVIAC Tournament Press Release from HVIAC
Alumni Take Home Trophies at IACP Awards
BY: Jeff Levine, Staff Contributor
It is awards season, and the International Association of Culinary Professionals (IACP) handed out its honors recently. Francis Lam ’03 won a Bert Greene Award for excellence in food journalism. His article in Bon Appétit, “The Last Place on Earth,” was the winner in the Culinary Travel Writing Category. Chris Gesualdi ’82 earned a Special Recognition Award as Culinary Educator of the Year. Nicolaus Balla ’02 is co-author of Bar Tartine: Techniques and Recipes, which won a cookbook award in the Chefs and Restaurants category. Bar Tartine also won the 2015 James Beard Foundation Cookbook Award in the Cooking from a Professional Point of View category.
In one of the closest men’s tennis tournaments in league history, the Berkeley College Knights edged out the Culinary Institute of America Steels to capture the 2015 Hudson Valley Intercollegiate Athletic Conference Men’s Tournament title on Saturday afternoon at the USTA Billie Jean King National Tennis Center. The league newcomer Knights captured one flight championship with Omar Durrani and Sebastien Rousseau securing the No. 2 doubles title and advanced to the finals in five other flights to accumulate 16 points and taking a two-point victory over the Steels, who claimed runner up for the fifth straight year. The Steels produced three flight champions led by Jeremy Sawyer at No. 2
singles, Jonghee Lee at No. 3 singles and Zachary Bryant at No. 6 singles. Regular season champion Pratt finished in third place, just four points behind the Knights led by Sergio Yarritu who took home the overall singles title for the second straight year and named the 2015 HVIAC Player of the Year. The senior also teamed up with Eli Eskenazi for the overall doubles title, two of four flight titles claimed by the two-time defending champion Cannoneers. Rounding out the six-team tournament field were St. Joseph’s College, Vaughn College led by No. 4 singles champion Ahmed Aly and Webb Institute.
May 22, 2015
Events
May 24, 2015-June 13, 2015 Sunday
Monday
Tuesday
24 Memorial Day 25 No Classes
9:15pm-Tabletop Gaming 9:15pm-Culinary Christian Fellowship 9:15pm-Culinary Notes
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7
1
Wednesday
26
9:15pm-Partners in Equality 9:15pm-Veterans Association and Auxiliary 9:15pm-Chefs Against Child Hunger
2
9:15pm-Brew Club 9:15pm-Tabletop Gaming Club 9:15pm-Culinary Christian Fellowship 9:15pm-Culinary Notes 9:15pm-CIA Paintball Coalition
9:15pm-Partners in Equality 9:15pm-Veterans Association and Auxiliary 9:15pm-Slow Food
8 9:15pm-Tabletop Gaming Club 9:15pm-Culinary Christian Fellowship 9:15pm-Culinary Notes 9:15pm-CIA Paintball Coalition
9 9:15pm-Partners in Equality 9:15pm-Veterans Association and Auxiliary 9:15pm-Chefs Against Child Hunger 9:15pm-Photography Club
-Taste the Rhythm Dance Club- SRC, Group Fitness Room -Culinary Christian Fellowship- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -Culinary Notes- SRC, Multipurpose Room (East) -Veterans Association & Auxiliary- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -CHOP’T- SRC Pool Lounge
Conrad N. Hilton Library Learning Library Commons: Monday-Thursday: 7:30am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 7:30am-7:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Video Center Hours: Campus Store Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm 10:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00amFriday: 8:30am-5:00pm 6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm
Thursday
27 9:15pm-Club Con
9pm-French Club 3 9:15pm-Bacchus Wine Society 9:15pm-Public SGA Meeting 9:15pm-Culinarians Against Cancer 9:15pm-The Word Poetry Club 4:30pm-CHOP’T 10 9pm-French Club 9:15pm-Bacchus Wine Society 9:15pm-Culinarians Against Cancer 9:15pm-The Word Poetry Club
Apple Pie Monday-Friday: 7:30am-5:00pm (when classes are in session)
30
4
5
6
12
13
11 9:15pm-SPICE 9:15pm-Black Culinarian Society 9:15pm-Mixology Society 9:15pm-Korean Association
Hours of Operation
Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:30pm
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9:15pm-SPICE 9:15pm-Black Culinarian Society 9:15pm-Mixology Society 9:15pm-Korean Association
-Bacchus Wine Society- Wine Spectator Classroom -Public SGA Meetings- SRC, Multipurpose Room -Gay Straight Alliance Club- Pick Lounge -The Word Poetry Club- SRC Pool Lounge -SPICE- SRC Conference Room -Black Culinarian Society- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -Guild of Tea- Admissions EcoLab Theater
Plaza Cafe (Courtside) Monday-Thursday: 11:00am-11:00pm Friday: 11:00am-10:30pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:30pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
Student Recreation Center Monday-Thursday: 7:00amMidnight Friday: 7:00am-10:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:00pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
Saturday
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9:15pm-SPICE 9:15pm-Black Culinarian Society 9:15pm-Mixology Society 9:15pm-Korean Association
Club Meeting Locations
Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends)
Friday
9
AOS Graduatioin
-CIA Paintball Coalition- SRC, Multipurpose Room -Korean Association- Wine Spectator Classroom -Culinarians Against Cancer- Admissions EcoLab Theater -Slow Food- Anheuser Busch Theater -Eta Sigma Delta- Admissions EcoLab Theater -La Papillote- SRC Conference Room -Club Con- Heinz Plaza
Pool Hours Monday-Thursday: 10:00am1:00pm & 3:00pm-10:00pm Friday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-7:00pm Saturday & Sunday: Noon-7:00pm Resident Life Monday-Friday: 7:00am-5:00pm
(East)
Campus Safety Open 24 hours 7 Days a week Health Services Monday-Friday: 7:00am-8:45pm Career Services Monday-Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Drop in: 9:00am-1:00pm 2:00pm-4:00pm
The Bottom Line @ The SRC Student Activities:
SGA & Club Events:
Recreation, Fitness & Athletics:
June 7th New York City Bus Trip June 27th Stars & Stripes Weekend Fireworks & Dance on Anton Plaza
May 27th 9:15 pm-Club Con in Heinz Plaza Rain location- Marriott Lower Level May 29th 10:00 pm-SPICE showing of “Space Jam”
June 13th CHOP’T Day Hike Minnewaska July 1st Cross Country practice begins
June 28th Starts & Stripes Weekend Block Party on the Athletic Field
July 11th Run/Walk 5K More details to follow
July 11th Whitewater Rafting Trip to Leigh River Tickets on Sale June 1st
10
LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of May 22, 2015 Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Kendrick Montoya, Mehjabin Tanjila, Nicole Tambascio, Adam Cardonell Back Row: Amelia Rosso, Anna Altieri, Tyler Eaves, Jarred London, Ilhan Ryu
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Emil Marquita, Tabitha Luh, Caitlin Magruder, Katherine Norat, Joshua Blake Back Row: Kerry McKeon, Jack Flash, Austin Douglas, Mirra Orozco Sims, Elliot Silber, Garrett Biela, Jordan Reina
Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Jonathan Lee, Erica Tengan, Ashley Garcia, Amanda Hutton, Kyle Massey, Daniel Wood, Jason Joaquin, Jason Blais Back Row: Nathan Buckley, Jake Nolan, Dominick Peragallo, Conrad Nieberding, Matt Guarini, Anthony George, Kyle Nguyen, Mike Hebert, Shane Whitney
Culinary Arts Group #4
Front Row: Zach Kerekes, Danielle Zuchovicki, Rachael Beck, Laura Bowman, Alexandrea Jenson, Drew Sauer Back Row: Sang Soo Cho, Grace Powers, Michael Maxwell, Graham Greene, Sung Kim, Thomas Vecere, Mikey Harris
Baking & Pastry
Front Row: Blair M. DeMauro, Camille Alonso, Paula Aranda, Jessica Duclos, Claudia Licausi, Taylor Petrini Back Row: Natasha White, Marissa Leigh, Mallory Boyd, Cayley Boire, Lauren Neblett, Anthony Young, ChloĂŠ Nguyen, Rebecca Pensyl
May 22, 2015
11
AOS Graduation Speaker: Jacques Pépin Born in Bourg-en-Bresse, France, Jacques Pépin’s love for cooking developed when, as a child, he helped in his parents’ restaurant, Le Pélican. At age 13, he began an apprenticeship at the Grand Hôtel de l’Europe, where he almost immediately distinguished himself as a young chef with enormous talent. By the time he came to the United States at age 23, Chef Pépin had already worked at some of France’s most acclaimed restaurants, including the Plaza Athénée, Maxim’s, and Fouquet’s. He also served as personal chef to three French heads of state, including Charles de Gaulle. After moving to the U.S., Chef Pépin worked at Le Pavillon—a historic French restaurant in New York City—under famed chef Pierre Franey. He then served for 10 years as director of research and new development for Howard Johnson’s, charged with developing a line of food for the restaurant chain. At the same time, Chef Pépin earned his bachelor’s degree and then a master’s degree in 18th-century French literature at Columbia University in New York City. He is currently the executive culinary director for Oceania Cruises. Chef Pépin has hosted a number of popular public television programs such as Jacques Pépin’s Cooking Techniques, Jacques Pépin’s Kitchen with his daughter Claudine, Essential Pépin, and Julia and Jacques Cooking at Home, which won both the James Beard Award for Best National Cooking Show and the National Academy
Bake Shop Wordsearch Bakery Bread Brownie Butter Cake Cobbler Cookie Cornstarch Cream Puff Cupcake
Custard Donut Eclair Flour Frosting Honey Icing Jelly Roll Milk Mixer
Muffin Oven Parchment Pastry Pie Pop Up Sugar Sweet Tart Torte
The solution will be in the next issue. wordsearch courtsey of www.whenwewordsearch.com
of Television Arts and Sciences Daytime Emmy Award in 2001. He has just completed filming his 14th and last cooking series, Jacques Pépin: Heart and Soul in the Kitchen. Accolades have come not only from Chef Pépin’s adopted country, but also from his birth country of France, which has accorded him three of its highest civilian honors—the Chevalier de L’Ordre National de la Légion d’Honneur, Chevalier de L’Ordre des Arts et des Lettres, and Chevalier de L’Ordre du Mérite Agricole. During his career, Chef Pépin has authored more than 20 cookbooks, including the groundbreaking La Technique and La Methode. A former columnist for The New York Times, he is a contributing editor to Food & Wine magazine. Chef Pépin is passionate about sharing his culinary knowledge and serves as dean of special programs at the International Culinary Center in New York City. A gifted artist, he has often chosen to illustrate his cookbooks and menus. His art not only focuses on culinary subjects but also includes landscapes, flora, and a flirtation with abstract expressionism. He works in watercolor, ink, and collage. Most recently, the International Association of Culinary Professionals honored Chef Pépin on the occasion of his 80th birthday with a staggering 80 cakes created by some of the nation’s top chefs and restaurants.
12
LA PAPILLOTE
In The Industry
BY: Sarah Lubitz, AOS Culinary
Take a Seat at “Chef ’s Table”
“The only way for traditions in food to be kept alive is to let them adapt.” These words, which were uttered by Magnus Nilsson, perfectly sum up what Netflix’ new documentary series, “Chef ’s Table” is trying to demonstrate. Whether or not you go into watching this series knowing who all six of the chefs are, you will enjoy the show. When I sat down to watch each of these stories, I went into them with an open mind and with a determination to learn and to absorb information. I honestly do not believe it is possible to watch chefs of the caliber shown in this series and walk away unchanged. “Chef ’s Table” is the vision of David Gelb, the same man who gave us “Jiro Dreams of Sushi.” The series follows six of the world’s best chefs on their journeys to unconventional greatness. The documentary series follows, in order, the following chefs: Massimo Bottura of Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy; Dan Barber of Blue Hill at Stone Barns in Pocantico Hills, New York; Francis Mallmann of Restaurante Patagonia Sur in Argentina; Niki Nakayama of N/Naka in Los Angeles, California; Ben Shewry of Attica in Melbourne, Australia; Magnus Nilsson of Fäviken in Järpen, Sweden. Gelb chose chefs that were well known, like Massimo Bottura, whose restaurant is ranked third in the world, and chefs that are still trying to make a name for themselves, like Niki Nakayama. The diversity of years established and the diversity of cuisine gives this series intrigue. The two episodes that have stuck with me the most are the ones that follow Massimo Bottura and Niki Nakayama. Massimo Bottura’s interest in cooking started at a young age when he would help his mother, grandmother, and aunt prepare meals while he was hiding from his siblings under the kitchen counter. He was drawn in by the homemade tortellini that his grandmother would make. The restaurant that would define him as a chef, Osteria Francescana, opened in 1995. The goal was simple: serve food that honored Italian tradition, but also revolutionized Italian cuisine. Niki Nakayama’s story is similar only because she is also obsessed with what she is trying to achieve. Niki started out her career being second-guessed by people, and she still struggles to prove herself to this day. She began her career at Takao in Brentwood, California working under Takao Izumida and Morihiro Onodera. Wanting to learn more, Niki spent three years studying Japanese cuisine in Japan. Upon returning to the United States, she
first opened Azami Sushi Café, and then Inaka. Both of these restaurants allowed Niki to find her culinary voice. N/Naka, her current restaurant, focuses on the Japanese art of kaiseki. As students and culinarians, I believe that watching shows like these will allow us to build on what we have already learned. CIA is giving us the fundamentals to go out into the world and establish ourselves, but, at the end of the day, only we can decide what to do with the fundamentals. We must honor what has been done by the chefs before us, but we also have to allow ourselves to create something new, just as Magnus Nilsson implied. The beautiful thing about cooking is that it allows its participants to find their own voices. Very few professions give people the chance to be as free and as creative as ours does. We definitely put in more hours than most others, but I feel like the chances that we are given to be creative more than make up for that. After poking around on the Internet for a while, I have yet to find anything about a season two for “Chef ’s Table” on Netflix, but, judging by the response, I would be amazed if they did not continue on with the show. Join the conversation – watch “Chef ’s Table” immediately! I promise that you will get hooked.
Chef’s Table Advertisement photo courtsey of fangirlsarewe.com
Massimo Bottura: photo courtsey of ideasdebabel.wordpress.com
Niki Nakayama photo courtsey of Bon Appétit