2015 09 04 finaldraft

Volume 36, No.11

September 4 2015

Chef Sean Brock Shows What It Means to Honor His Southern Heritage

BY: Sarah Lubitz, AOS Culinary Food activist, James Beard winner, Southern royalty, and chef at Husk Charleston, Husk Nashville, and McCrady’s. When I think of cooking, and to truly embody every aspect of what it means to be a chef, I think of chefs like Sean Brock. Few people are as passionate as he is. All you have to do is read Heritage, his new cookbook, or watch any of his episodes on “Mind of a Chef,” and his passion will be remarkably evident.

Before coming back to CIA after extern, I watched Brock’s episodes of “Mind of a Chef,” and I was struck with two overwhelming emotions; pride and inspiration.

Pride that he is a Southern chef, inspiration because of how much of a difference Sean Brock is making to change the way we eat food. I was proud to be Southern while watching him. It was during one of these episodes that I realized that I had to write about Chef Brock. My intention was to write about what I was watching, but my thirst for more information made me ask myself, “What if you could interview Sean Brock himself ?”

A month later, the question that I had merely entertained became my reality, and I was honored to interview Chef Brock while he was working in Nashville. To date, I have to say that it was one of the most humbling experiences of my life. I asked Chef Brock about Heritage, his

Photo courtesy of Vogue Photo credit: Eric Boman

Photo courtesy of Husk Restaurant

passion for Southern cooking, and what made him chose the culinary school route. The interview went as follows: What was the main purpose of you making Heritage?

Well, I never really wanted to write a book, and I had these long conversations with people about how I was terrified to make a book because it’s just not the way we cook. It’s hard to make a cookbook that really is a proper representation of your brain and your theories. We cook very much like people play jazz – we kind of just let things happen and we kind of go off the cuff, but we also very interested in the ideas of constant improvement as technicians, and as flavorists, and as soulful cooks. We’re always chasing this very particular emotion, and that’s a life-long journey; that’s something you struggle with every day. And, then, when you write a cookbook, it’s a very specific moment in time that’s captured. Once it’s written in stone, it’s written in stone. Fifteen years later, someone picks up that book, and that’s their opinion of you. That was my fear at least, I’m not saying I believe that now, but I obviously wrote a book. But, that was my fear. It just didn’t make sense to me document cooking in that way.

And then I became really, really obsessed with trying to collect every, single American cookbook printed in the nineteenth century. The reason I was so obsessed with those books was because this spirit and the mindset of the people who wrote those recipes was really inspiring to me.

It was at that point that I realized that a cookbook can

be just as much about inspiration, and that can be just as powerful as the perfect cornbread recipe. Once I started looking at it that way, I realized that it was kind of my responsibility to write a book – to share my journey and my ups and downs with people in hopes that it would inspire them to take the same journey. The original book I signed a contract to write was a book about Low Country cuisine. But, the more I wrote, the more that turned into a personal diary, a journal, and I really started enjoying it.

It became very therapeutic. I really started getting into it and it turned into the monster that it is today.

Is that one of the reasons that you decided to share your stories with “Mind of a Chef ?”

Yeah, and when I’d almost finished the book writing process, as I was coming to the very end of it, I was kind of hungry for more. I knew it was an enjoyable practice for me, that idea of sharing and seeing people’s reactions and watching it work, watching it inspire people, and watching it motivate people, and watching it entertain people. And then the “Mind of a Chef ” opportunity came along, and I was very hesitant again – I’m not really the most camera hungry guy, I’m very shy and reserved in reality. So, that took a lot from me to be in front of a camera, and for me to be a television host. It takes a very special personality to want to do something like that. But, I knew that it would be another amazing opportunity to reach a ...continued on page 3

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“Casa Madero ”

Photo courtesy of Husk Restaurant

P 4-5

“Ice Cream? Sorbetto?

Gelato!”

CENTER SPREAD

“Rhinebeck Culinary Crawl”

P 6-7

“In Defense of Dining Alone”

BACK PAGE

Tabasco: A Cacao Journey

P 8-9

P 12

2

LA PAPILLOTE

Editorial

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

September 4, 2015

PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Yi Si (Crystal) Tan LAYOUT EDITOR Nancy Leonard ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Sarah Lubitz Sera Park Yi Si (Crystal) Tan Ezra Eichelbereger Anna Ungricht Matthew Stocker Maddy Morrison

From the Editor’s Desk

Casa Madero, the Oldest Vineyard in the American Continent Aztecs in 1568, Spanish settlers left the southern states to travel north in search of gold. They did not find gold, but instead found an oasis with an abundance of wild vinifera in the Valley of Parras. The first wine from the valley was produced in 1594 by Jesuits who established a missionary named Santa Maria de las Parras (Holy Mary of the Vines). The tour guide explained with enthusiasm that the region’s high altitude and relatively cool climate made for a well-balanced grape ripening. One of the original settlers, Don Lorenzo Garcia, requested the land from the King of Spain, Felipe II, for the purpose of harvesting grapes and producing wine and brandy. In 1597, Hacienda de San Lorenzo was founded.

In 1699, Spain prohibited production of wine and spirits aside for the use of the church, but Hacienda de San Lorenzo continued its production of wine. By 1893, this Mexican vineyard attracted the attention of a French company and was bought for 500,000 francs by Don Evaristo Madero. Don Evaristo Madero modernized installations and sent his children to Europe to learn about the harvesting of grapes and the production of wine and brandy. He also renamed Hacienda San

Krizia Villaflor Jodie Jones Rachel Zairan Zhou Jose Lopez Ganem Melissa McQuoid

COMPACT

La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion.

Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize.

Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

FOOD REVIEW POLICY

As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

EDITORIAL POLICY

La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability.

Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Connor White, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.

LETTERS POLICY

...continued on page 3 On one hot summer day, I had the pleasure of visiting the oldest vineyard and winery in the American continent, Casa Madero, during the harvesting season. After a four hour drive across the cactus filled western desert of Monterrey, we arrived in the town of Parras. Parras is the name of the town, but it also translates to ‘vines’ in Spanish. It is hard to imagine such a vineyard existing in the middle of the desert, but, as we approached and learned more about Casa Madero, I found its history to be as rich and beautiful as a woven tapestry.

To begin my journey at the vineyard, I must describe the Casa Madero I have seen. Casa Madero is a stunning property, its beauty is apparent in the grapevine shaded walkways and hanging grape clusters, in the paintings of la virgen de las parras (virgin of the vines) on walls, and in the smiles of the workers. Already charmed by our surroundings, we began our tour to learn about the history and winemaking of Casa Madero.

Our tour guide was an old man with leathery tanned skin from the seasons spent working at the vineyard, and eyes that shone bright under a beat up baseball cap as he told the story of Casa Madero. Through the translation of my companion, pieces of Casa Madero’s history came to life in my mind. After Hernan Cortez conquered the

Painting of La Virgen de Las Parras (virgin of the vines) photo credit: Yi Si (Crystal) Tan

Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies:

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September 4, 2015

3

Interview with Chef Sean Brock Continued

continued from page 1...

whole different group of people through the power of TV. I knew that that particular series was one that wasn’t based on the idea of most of today’s food TV shows are based on – it was more of a documentary, it was more of a series thing (PBS), it was educational, it was thought provoking, it was crawling inside of someone’s brain. I knew that if I said “no,” that I’d regret it forever. So, I made a decision to do it, and it ended up being filmed while we were opening up Husk here in Nashville, so it was a lot of very long days.

I cannot believe how many people have seen that show. And, now that it’s on Netflix, people from all over the country are stopping me on the street, talking to me about how much they enjoyed watching me cook with my mother, or how much they appreciated the passion I had for rice. That just proves that, as chefs, if we’re given opportunities like that, we need to embrace them and be grateful for them and use them in the best possible way.

Talking about Southern cuisine, what made you decide to stay in the South after school and not go somewhere else?

If you look back at my career, it’s very interesting…

I’ve never cooked or lived anywhere outside of the South.

I didn’t go to New York City to cook, I didn’t go to San Francisco to cook, I didn’t go to France to stage, which I should have, and there’s a large part of me that regrets that. But, there’s also a very large part of me that’s thankful that I’ve stayed focused. I think sometimes you realize why you were put on the earth. Ever since I was a little, tiny kid, my passion has been cooking, and I knew I was very lucky to be given that at a very young age, to know what I wanted to do at a young age. I grew up in a very rural part of the South, much more Southern than most people even would have witnessed, so that’s who I am. A part of growing up is coming to grips with who you are and who you’re supposed to be. There is that fate that I believe in. And, for me, I think I was born to be a Southern cook. And, not just a Southern cook, but an evangelist, in a way, a protector. Someone who is responsible for preserving the past while looking forward and moving something forward, that’s an incredible gift to be given and an incredible opportunity to have. I’ve travelled to every continent except for Antarctica, and I’ve spoken to thousands of people about Southern culture and Southern food, and that is just an amazing gift. I’m the type of person that, once when you realize how lucky you are, how grateful you are, to have something like that handed to you, and have a platform and an opportunity like that, then it makes you want to work one-hundred times harder than you ever thought was even possible, and to think on a different level, and to be thankful is an incredible form of motivation for me. I’ve always had a one-track mind. Even if you look at my Instagram account, or if you Google image search, or if you look at the blog I used to keep a long time ago, you’ll see that I’m also a very into

contemporary cooking, a modern sort of mindset. I think progressive cooking is just as important as historical cooking. I think my goal is to have a beautiful balance of that.

You’re talking about how passionate you are. I know a little bit about it, but tell me more about the work you do with the Southern Foodways Alliance.

Well, I blame them for everything. I really do. I blame them for the sleep that I miss, I blame them for all the crazy friends I have, and I blame them for all the inspiration that causes me to be this obsessive human being. The work that they’re doing will go down as some of the most important work in this history of our region. Because, what they’re doing is that they’re telling the good, the bad, and the ugly. They’re documenting, they’re informing, they’re educating, they’re thinking. They’re talking about subjects that are difficult to talk about, but they’re also having a blast and bringing like-minded people together.

That’s what you have to do to truly understand the culture, you embrace it in that way, and that’s how you move it forward, and that’s how you effect the future. If Southern Foodways Alliance had never been formed, I don’t think Husk would exist, I don’t think Heritage would exist, and I certainly wouldn’t have the amazing friends that I have that inspire me every day. They motivate me to work harder every day. It’s one of those things that I’m not sure everyone knows how important that organization is. It’s amazing because I feel like every cuisine or culture sort of needs that. When I was in West Africa a couple times doing research, I saw a lot of the same things happening that happen in the South. The idea of people not eating Senaglise rice in Senagal blew my mind, and I really couldn’t understand it, and I thought, “Wow, wouldn’t it be cool if a group of chefs or thinkers or historians or professors or farmers created something similar, what could they achieve? Could they bring back those old things that were disappearing?” So, it’s happening all over the world, it’s not just the South, it’s not just in America. You see it happening in Italy, you see it happening in France. It’s just this generation. We need structure, discipline, and organization, and we need the information in front of us.

That’s the one thing that the Southern Foodways Alliance does – it informs us on a level that, on our own, we wouldn’t be able to achieve because we simply don’t have the time outside of our normal lives to go out and interview and speak with oyster men that have been doing the same thing for fifty years, or soul food cooks in Alabama.

Those things are important. Those stories are important; their influence is priceless. The Southern Foodways Alliance is a one-stop shop for all of that.

What made you decided to go to culinary school instead of just continuing to work in restaurants?

One of the early things in my teenage years that drew me to becoming a chef was the anarchy of it all. It was the pirate ship mentality – watching guys who were ten years older than me blasting Metallica’s Ride the Lightening or

Slayer while they were cooking for 200 people – that’s what I wanted. [Laughs] That was really attractive to me. It looked like a blast, and to get paid to do that just seemed like the most perfect thing in the world, so I fell into that. Really, it’s straight out of Kitchen Conf idential.

That sort of work environment I just absolutely loved.

But, I knew the importance of discipline, and I knew the importance of having a strong foundation built around a militant sort of mindset, of understanding responsibility, of professionalism, and you were never going to find it on that pirate ship, but it sure was fun. [Laughs] I knew that I needed to really be somewhere and be held accountable for how wrinkled my chef coat was or how perfect my béchamel was or, how wrong my béchamel was. I knew that I needed that discipline and foundation, and that’s exactly what I got at culinary school. I went into school with this mindset that I was going to do better than the person beside me, no matter what it took. Going into school with that mentality, knowing how lucky I was to be able to go to a very expensive culinary school, and what a great opportunity that was, I just felt very lucky. I knew that it was an incredible opportunity for me to start my career path the right way, on the right foot. Things are a lot different. That was in the late 90’s, and even today, which in the grand scheme of things, it doesn’t seem like that long ago, but now we’re in the age of social media and I read an amazing quote by Daniel Patterson today saying that these days it seems like Instagram is the only culinary school you need to go to. I see that happening a lot with kids, so who knows what the future holds? But, I hope that people will take advantage of these amazing culinary schools that are out there that teach every generation the importance of discipline and a foundation of solid cooking.

What advice would you have for us, the ones who haven’t finished school yet?

My advice is the same advice that I got a long time ago when I was in school, and that is to find a chef that you connect with, that you believe in, that inspires you, and find a chef that is doing something that, or is in a place that you want to be, and work for that chef, no matter if it’s for free, or whatever capacity it may be, and pick that person’s brain until there’s nothing left to pick. Try and understand what they did to become the person that they are today, and the person that they want to be. I think, to me, that was a big moment for me when I did that, and it still is. The person that I attached myself to, to this very day, still gives me advice, and I worked for him while I was in school, and even stayed after school and spent time with him. He’s helped me with every difficult decision I’ve made throughout my career – I always hear his voice in my head. That’s what it takes, someone that you admire at the highest level of admiration that you could possibly imagine, and stick to that person until they find you a new home, until you’ve grown out of your job with them.

That’s advice that I’ll always give.

Freshly harvested grapes photo credit: Yi Si (Crystal) Tan

the damp cellars we visited next. Casa Madero keeps the oldest barrels in the cellar for the tours. We saw how the temperature and the humidity are controlled as much as possible to protect the wine from external factors, such as light and heat during the aging process.

Our tour finished as we exited from the dark cellars, and the sunlight outside struck my eyes and, for a moment, I almost thought I saw the vineyard covered in gold. The layers of brilliant light from the setting sun gilded the modern stainless steel machineries, the aged wooden structure of the cellars and the grape clusters hanging from the canopy up above in gold. I believe the beauty of this vineyard came from not only its surroundings, but also from its rich history of all the hard working people over the last 418 years to produce the best quality wines possible.

continued from page 2...

Lorenzo to Casa Madero. The innovation that came about for better wine did not stop here and in 1970, Casa Madero imported thirty-three types of fine grapes to test in the Valley of Parras. In 1980, further technology was brought from California and Europe, increasing production of distilled spirits such as brandies. By the 400th anniversary of the vineyard in 1997, Casa Madero began bottling wine made from the finest grapes from the Valley of Parras, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah.

Casa Madero has never ceased to move with the times and new technology. In 2001, Casa Madera’s Syrah wine won the gold medal in a global competition in Brussels and started to gain recognition for great qualities. The tour passed by enormous stainless steel tanks holding the grape juices and cartloads full of freshly harvested grapes.

These modern machineries made a striking contrast to

LA PAPILLOTE

4

Ice cream? Sorbetto? Gelato!

BY: Sera Park, AOS Baking & Pastry Summer is always melting hot.

Many of us become exhausted by the suffocating heat. At that moment, a spoonful of gelato would be heavenly.

I can escape from the hot summer while I am enjoying this sweet, frozen confection. Gelato is the Italian word for ice cream. If you directly translate this word to English, it means “frozen.” Generally, the word gelato refers to both sorbetto, a water-based frozen confection; and gelato, a milk-based frozen confection.

Ice cream is mostly a custard-based confection. Some books explain that gelato and ice cream are the same, but they have different characteristics, different birth backgrounds, and different tastes.

Humans started to enjoy ices after we figured out we could eat this cold mass from the peaks of mountains or as snow from the sky. There are several famous myths about ice. One popular myth is of Emperor Nero (A.D. 37-68, Rome). He loved to enjoy ice with his drinks so much so that he sent his slaves to harvest the ice from a mountain.

If they failed to get any ice, Nero killed them by boiling them in oil. Ice was a rare and precious ingredient. It was extremely hard to harvest and keep frozen before freezing technology was invented. The most popular (and somewhat romantic) myth is the story of Catherine de Medici (15191589). She married Henri, Duc d’Orleans, heir to the French throne and brought her chefs with the knowledge of making frozen dessert from Italy to France. In France, the chefs were just starting to develop the idea of frozen dessert. However, these two myths were passed down orally.

To explain the evidence of the start of modern frozen desserts such as gelato, we look to 1589. Giambattista della Porta in Naples had an experiment of freezing wine in a mixture of nitre and snow. This was incredibly close to the form of modern sorbetto. After sixty-eight years, Leopoldo and his brother Fedinando II de Medici performed an experiment of making frozen dessert by freezing liquids with flavors. It was increasingly popular and later became a luxury dessert among nobilities. In 1692, the book La Maison Reglée mentioned stirring ice during the freezing process. Two years later, sweetened milk based frozen ice appeared in Naples. In 1733, the chef author of The Modern Cook, Vincent La Chapelle, suggested putting egg whites with ices. He stirred the frozen confection during the freezing process. His use of eggs influenced both the texture and taste. The earlier frozen ices were more like sweetened, frozen ice, however, La Chapelle’s frozen dessert was closer to a

In Roman Holiday (1953), Audrey Hepburn is eating gelato in Rome. frozen custard with a richer, smoother texture and deep aroma. As time went by, this frozen custard became an icon of summer foods, and there were many gelato stores and gelato cookbooks that came out. This frozen confection, also known as ice cream, travelled to America.

America’s great technology of mass-production helped to bring ice cream to its golden age after nineteen centuries. The birth land of this frozen dessert, Italy, Vanilla Ice Cream

Vanilla gelato

Fruit Sorbet

Milk

375 ml

750 ml

X

Sugar

100 g

165 g

X

Vanilla Bean Egg yolk

Heavy Cream Fruit juice

Simple syrup Lemon juice TOTAL

1 ea 3 ea

250 ml X X X

800 ml

1 ea 8 ea X X X X

800 ml

(Recipes from Icecreams, sorbets, & Gelalti, Caroline and Robin Weir.)

SkillsUSA Restaurant Service Medalist

BY: Ezra Eichelbereger, Staff Contributor

Yes, there is a SkillsUSA chapter at the CIA. In fact, CIA student, Jackie Doucette, was awarded the Bronze medal in 2015 and CIA alumni, Leonella Montas took the Gold medal in 2014; both in the Restaurant Service contest. The CIA has been involved in SkillsUSA in the Culinary and Commercial Baking competitions for many years and entered the Restaurant Service contest in 2014 and 2015 with medalists for both years.

The CIA would like to develop a more vital SkillsUSA chapter and there are hopes to have CIA students in all three areas of the competition in 2016. This prestigious, rewarding experience is costly, however, and fundraising activities will take place to cover the costs of travel and housing.

had great techniques for making perfect gelato but they did not have technology for large scale production. They had to make the gelato a la minute. Thus, these days, the definition of gelato is artisanal Italian ice cream.

There are several distinct differences between Italian gelato and American ice cream. (Table 1 gives you an idea of different amounts of ingredients among three different styles of modern frozen confections.) American ice cream has a similar, or the same, form as French ice cream, which has high dairy fat. The higher fat contents help to trap more air, resulting in an increase in volume increase of twenty-five percent to ninety percent, making it less dense than gelato. Ice cream is churned faster and has a harder texture. The serving temperature is also different. The best serving temperature for ice cream is ten degrees Fahrenheit. Gelato is served at fifteen more degrees Fahrenheit. Gelato is denser than ice cream because of the lower content of dairy fats. It is made without heavy cream but with milk. Sometimes, egg yolks are added but they are not necessary. Gelato with egg yolks will have less air incorporated in the final product and this gives a milky flavor, a clean aftertaste and a light body. Sorbet is made using basic sugar syrup plus flavoring. The flavoring is usually fruit purees. Because of its short texture, sometimes people put glucose to develop the texture. There is no dairy fat, but just water and sugar. It is the closest in texture and taste to the original frozen confection.

There are a lot of gelato and ice cream shops around us. If you walk in New York City, you are able to find a gelato or ice cream shop every few blocks. The variety of frozen confections within gelato, sorbetto, ice cream, and more gives you pleasure. Now that you know the differences and background stories among these three, you may be able to enjoy them even more.

The New York State contest this year is held at Alfred State College in March, and the Nationals are held in Louisville, KY in June.

Whether or not students have been involved in SkillsUSA in the past, or have an interest in joining the CIA chapter, please contact Professor Ezra Eichelberger at e_eichel@culinary.edu.

X X X X

200 ml tt

800 ml

September 4, 2015

5

Depression: What It Is and What To Look For BY: Anna Ungricht, BPS Baking & Pastry I have to admit to some difficulty in coming up with a suitable beginning for this article. I spent three weeks racking my brain, yet to no avail. The closest I came to included poems and sayings.

Few truly captures the complexity of depression. This is not an easy subject to write about, it is heavy and hits home for many. I hope to bring awareness and understanding to this topic and also to destroy the stigma associated with depression and mental illnesses. So I will start with the basics and move on from there.

What is depression? First and foremost, it is not a weakness. The most basic answer would be long lasting periods of sadness. But, it is much more than that. It includes changes in one’s mood, attitude, activity and energy level, interest in things, disruption of sleep, eating changes, and the list goes on and on. Each person will experience a range of symptoms and react in their own way. Depression is triggered by any number of external and/or internal reasons. External reasons include, traumatic events, breakdown of relationships, money issues, bullying, and school to just name a few. Internal reasons include, genetics, mood disorders, and bipolar disorder. Everyone can suffer from depression, for some it may only last a few days to weeks, for others it is a constant daily battle lasting a lifetime. Why do I feel this is an important topic to discuss in the culinary field? One of the major causes of depression is stress. Professional kitchens are, by nature, stressful. There are a few that live and thrive off that kind of pressure, others cannot. With the range of systems it may be hard to recognize the depression. Men and women, as well as younger teens and older adults, react to depression differently. Women are more likely to seek treatment over men.

It is always best to talk to a professional if seeking treatment of depression. CAPS (Counseling and Psychological Services) is a wonderful resource on campus, and one that should not be overlooked.

Here is a list of symptoms; it is best to seek a professional opinion.

• Feelings of sadness, tearfulness, emptiness or hopelessness • Angry outbursts, irritability or frustration, even over small matters • Loss of interest or pleasure in most or all normal activities,

BY: Matthew Stocker, AOS Culinary

• • • • •

•

such as sex, hobbies, or sports Sleep disturbances, including insomnia or sleeping too much Tiredness and lack of energy, so even small tasks take extra effort.

Changes in appetite Anxiety, agitation or restlessness Feelings of worthlessness or guilt, fixating on past failures or blaming yourself for things that aren’t your responsibility (Mayo Clinic Staff, Depression) Frequent or recurrent thoughts of death, suicidal thought, suicide attempts

Most of these symptoms are general because there are different kinds of depression. Here is a list of the most commonly diagnosed types of depression.

Major depression, according to the National Institute of Mental Health, about seven percent of the United States suffers from this form. Major depression symptoms include extreme sadness, hopelessness, lack of energy, change in sleep and eating habits, feelings of guilt, and thoughts of suicide.

Dysthymia, a low mood for extended periods of time.

Symptoms range from sadness, trouble concentrating, fatigue, and changes in sleep and eating habits Seasonal Affective Disorder or SAD, usually during the winter, when there is less light during the day. Some people get into winter funks, but SAD is more than that. Symptoms of SAD are anxiety, increased irritability, daytime fatigue, and weight gain. The best treatment is usually light therapy or artificial light treatment.

Atypical Depression, which is a sense of heaviness in the arms and legs, like a form of paralysis. Doctors believe this type of depression it is under diagnosed and one of the most common forms. Some of the primary symptoms include oversleeping and overeating, weight gain, irritable and relationship problems.

Psychotic Depression, which is characterized by false beliefs or sights and sounds, or delusions and hallucinations.

These characteristics aren’t typically associated with depression, but some that suffer from extremely severe episodes will see or hear things that aren’t there. People suffering from Psychotic Depression may become catatonic, or stop speak-

ing, or not leave their beds for long periods of time.

Bipolar Disorder, or manic-depressive disorder, characterized as highs and lows in moods. High periods, call mania, is explained by high energy, excitement, racing thoughts, and poor judgment. Low periods, called depression, are characterized by common depression symptoms, fatigue and loss of interesting in activities amongst other things.

Premenstrual Dysphoric Disorder, this strikes women during their menstrual cycle. This is a more severe type of PMS and symptoms include depression, anxiety, and major mood swings. Symptoms can affect relationships, decisions, and the ability to function.

Situational Depression, or adjustment disorder, is caused by stressful or life changing events or trauma. This type of depression is about 3 times more common than major depression. Symptoms are excessive sadness, worry, and nervousness Situational depression rarely needs medication and usually clears up over time, but if not, it may be a sign of major depression.

In most of cases of depression a combination of medication and therapy can help alleviate the symptoms. Also being open about your feelings and finding a good support system of friends and family helps, especially during down times.

Having been through the kitchens already I realize some of these such as, sleep disturbances, tiredness and lack of energy, may have been a perpetual side effect of the long hours and large workloads. I also know the stress of the kitchen, being away from home, and dealing with difficult decisions can trigger depression. One of the most important aspects of understanding depression is knowledge. This is a subject I am passionate about. I suffer from depression; and have had for as long as I can remember. I have always wanted to help people, and the best way I know how to is to educate. I also want you to know that depression isn’t the end of the world.

You are not alone, there others and people that care for you.

As I mentioned before, CAPS is a wonderful resource, so please, if this hits home, or made you think of yourself someone else, don’t be afraid to ask for help.

Resources Everyday Health 9 Depression Types to Know • By Chris Iliades, MD | Medically reviewed by Pat F. Bass III MD, MPH Mayo clinic: Depression: http://www.mayoclinic.org/diseasesconditions/depression/basics/symptoms/con-20032977

Run For Your Knives 5k

As the Run For Your Knives 5k soon approaches on September 12th, many students are hitting the gym and building up stamina in hopes of winning prizes and scholarship. Though the event will be filled with competitive runners, all students at the Culinary are encouraged to come. “You do not have to run to win a prize”, said Robert Kabakoff, founder of the 5k and the Chair of the Alumni Council. The council is based on building alumni engagement, community and connectivity. Events such as Run For Your Knives help build student networking, even before they graduate. Walking with someone you’d like to know gives you 45 minutes of bonding, and collaboration. The 5k promotes student networking and health, it is an event that will benefit anyone who goes, rather they run, walk, or hand out water.

The 5k started 5 years ago with 25 runners and $1200 in scholarship, and has grown to over one hundred runners with tens of thousands in scholarship. Robert started running 7 years ago and has always been an active alumni. He understands that it can be hard to stay healthy at the CIA, and also how expensive the school is. By supporting an event like this, he hopes he can help students with both of those struggles. Students who win scholarships have the chance to meet the company that donated the money, networking even more. Robert expressed, “I owe the (CIA) students of the world.” By bringing in compa-

nies to donate, and promoting health, he is able to keep up the professionalism the student’s hold while they are learning here.

Along with scholarships, there are many items being given away. From knife kits to running gear and backpacks, everyone has the chance to win. Before the run starts, there will be a winner selected for a prize. During the race, there will be an on-going raffle. After all runners have finished, there will be even more awards and scholarships given out. Donations are provided by a mix of CIA alumni, companies, restaurants, and other businesses. All of the money that is donated goes to the student. Anyone can donate, even your parents! Robert had an innovative example on how students can support the event. If all students who have a daily routine which includes getting coffee every day, maybe they don’t get coffee for just one day that week and then donate what they didn’t spend to the 5k. Since all money goes to the students, those few dollars can be valuable.

As students, we have all heard mise en place many times. By staying fit, it is easier to manage your mental mise en place. Not everyone who attends the 5k plans on being a marathon runner, or even plans to run in their life. Robert hopes that by being exposed to the event, students start to think about staying fit.

“Just people thinking about it is half the battle.” Robert remarks.

Though classes are demanding, and take a lot of free time to prepare for, going to the gym for an hour is an activity many students might pick up after attending this event.

Signing up for this event is easy. Go on the student

portal, under the news and announcements on the main page, there is an ad for the “Run For Your Knives 5k Walk/Run”.

Once you click “register for the race” you will be brought to another page talking about the race. Select “Registration” and proceed to fill in the information. It only takes two minutes and you can schedule your best weekend here at the CIA. The race is on Saturday, September 12, and check in starts at 8 a.m. at the student commons. The race starts at 9am, and finishes up when all participants have finished the 5k. If you would like to read more about the Run For Your Knives, you can visit http://www. runforyourknives5k.com. If you or your parents would like to donate, you can do so during registration. If you would like to donate but not participate in the race, you can do so by visiting the website. The event will be tons of fun, and can only grow if more student’s come and experience what it has to offer.

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LA PAPILLOTE

CENTER SPREAD

La Papillote Writers Enjoying Hudson Valley 1 Rhinebeck Farmer’s Market

featuring and supporting diverse farm fresh products BY: Maddy Morrison, AOS Culinary

Since 1994, farmers and different food vendors have gathered together on Sundays to sell their unique food creations. There is a wide range of eateries from butcheries to beekeepers, the Rhinebeck Farmer’s Market seems to have it all. Highlighting the local market of the Hudson Valley, this farmers market in particular has been thriving and voted Hudson Valley’s Best Farmer’s Market of the Year for the past five years in a row and counting.

Whilst on our food tour we stopped to talk to one of the butchers at Raven & Boar. Raven and Boar is known for their Hudson Valley charcuterie, they often make sausages, and sell them as delectable snacks on a stick.

One of their most popular sausages is the hot and spicy sausage on a stick, served with a slice of baguette at the base of the sausage. We were provided small samples of the sausage for a short tasting as we learned more about them. They do all charcuterie and butchering on site, they realized when they hired people to butcher pigs, they were losing at least 30% of their animal through unused parts,

Harvest Spirits photo credit: Sera Park

2 Pizzeria Posto

artisan authentic wood-f ired pizza BY: Yi Si (Crystal) Tan, AOS Baking

Turning into a quiet alley behind the busy farmer’s market, one would never expect to see a small square surrounded by small shops and restaurants. Amongst an Italian restaurant and small gift shop is Pizzeria Posto.

Pizzeria Posto was very busy during the time we visited so we enjoyed the classic margherita pizza with San Marzano tomatoes, fresh mozzarella and basil on an outdoor table in the square. A unanimous sound of content came from everyone on the tour just by smelling the pizza carried by the waitress to us. There was simply something special about the freshly baked pizza in front of us. It was perfectly baked with the crust crunchy and hot. These classic flavors of this pizza somehow turned into something refreshing and new, perhaps it was how the pizza was baked in their beautiful brick oven. The pizza was so delicious that I ate every last bite of my slice, even if I am usually not a fan of pizza crusts!

Margherita pizza tasting photo credit: Sera Park

Perry’s Pickles photo credit: Maddy Morrison

Tasting at Raven and Boar’s Stand photo credit: Sera Park

granting less profit. They now do it themselves, and make lots of stock and broth from the previously unused parts.

Raven and Boar is a perfect example of smart owners, since they began to butcher their pigs, they are now getting a total of 130% of their pigs, while providing only the very best of the best to their clientele.

After Raven and Boar, we spoke to the Lynn Haven Goat Farm, their products include yogurt, goat milk, goat meat, ricotta, feta, and of course chèvre cheese. We tasted several of their goat cheeses. A Grade A dairy farm with over 120 goats, Lynn Haven make different combinations with their chèvre cheese, such as lavender and honey, which I must insist was superbly aromatic. There was also an orange and honey chèvre with toasted walnuts, it was a unique experience as the citrus cut through richness of the chèvre, as I spoke to the vendor she told me that her favorite was an herbed rosemary and garlic which she melts over pasta. This dish would not need any other spices and salts, allowing chèvre to speak for itself.

Then we went to Harvest Spirits’ booth, where they sold different spirits and vinegars ranging from handcrafted apple vodka to rare peach brandy made with Hudson Valley Bosc pears. Among their vinegars what I found to be very interesting is Harvest Spirits is not only a farm, harvesting mainly apples, but also a thriving distillery.

Many of their apples are used for cider sold at their road

stands, but they also use their apples for their spirits. Harvest Spirits offer many tours, located in the River Valley just 20 miles South of Albany.

When wandering about the farmers’ market I learned that gourmet pickled products are very successful, and Perry’s Pickles, a stand offering artisan homemade pickles, really know their stuff. The vendor had us taste different foods such as pickled carrots, spicy pickled garlic, half sour cucumbers and fully sour pickles. We compared the differences between the half sour and fully soured pickles.

The half sour still had some of the flavors of a cucumber, in where the full sour was undeniably a pickle. Many of their products are fermented in a jalapeño-flavored brine.

We stopped to taste some fresh chicken liver pâté from our last stop, Yellow Bell farm, where they raise local freerange chickens. Their chickens are 100% free of additives and drugs, and the farm is run by a third generation farmer Katie Bogdanffy who makes sure to follow all organic practices, and to provide to utmost best product to her customers.

The amazing hospitality of all the vendors we stopped to talk to were undeniable, shown through not only their ecstasy about their trades but also the excitement to share their love of food to us. The Rhinebeck farmers market is open from 10 am to 2 pm every Sunday until the season is over, then they open up their winter market indoors in December.

3 Krause’s Chocolates hand-dipped chocolates since 1929 BY: Krizia Villaflor, AOS Baking

Being from Rhinebeck, I thought I had seen all that the area had to offer in the way of candy stores, but I had no idea that in the middle of town, a hidden gem was awaiting me. On Montgomery Street, in an unassuming locale, lies Krause’s Chocolate Shop.

This small store, open since 1929, was full of far more variety than I had expected. Having had generations to perfect their style, the sweets were beautifully crafted, and with a plethora of delicious, homemade, local confections, ranging from chocolate lollipops to “break up” bars.

They are creating tasteful treats for even the most discerning chocolate head. During our visit, the wonderful staff had delicious samples for us to try. One of which is their most popular seller, the infamous sea salt caramel. It was the perfect balance of earthy sea salt, rich gooey caramel, and silky dark chocolate. To my delight, they also had my favorite, chocolate covered gummy bears, in stock. Their

colorful centers were enveloped in a rich, crisp chocolate exterior that gave away to a chewy fruity interior. However, these were only a small sampling of the wide assortment which they had available.

If you ever find yourself in Rhinebeck, New York, make sure you take a visit to the friendly staff of Krause’s Chocolate Shop, and be sure to bring some goodies home.

Chocolates for tasting photo credit: Sera Park

September 4, 2015

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Food Tours’ Rhinebeck Culinary Crawl Pure Mountain Olive Oils for tasting photo credit: Sera Park

4 Pure Mountain Olive Oils

and Vinegars

High-quality infused olive oils and vinegars BY: Sera Park, AOS Baking This shop is lovely, amazing and entertaining with their nice interior, display of great quality products, and the opportunity to taste their delicious olive oils and balsamic vinegars! Pure Mountain is a family-operated company providing the finest and freshest oils and balsamic vinegars from all around the world.

They are sourcing their product from Italy, Spain, Greece, Morocco, Tunisia, Uruguay, Chile, California, and other countries to achieve the best qualities and to deliver it to the customers directly. (They also sell great sea salts, pastas, tapenades, spreads, and over 40 different gourmet foods and accessories.) Because of their eagerness and dedication to the business, the number of customers is increasing rapidly.

They provide excellent customer service, too. If you visit their physical shop, you get to taste all different olive oils, balsamic vinegars and sea salts with suggestions for pairing.

You can see their paring guideline on their website but it is worthwhile to experience actual tastings of all the different olive oils and vinegars on the spot.

For olive oil, there are approximately 700 cultivators around the world. To get the fruit from an olive tree, it takes 5 to 8 years to harvest the first fruit. It is timeconsuming work. Extra virgin olive is well known as a great provider of health benefits. It is a powerful antioxidant, reduces the clotting of red blood cells, amplifies the immune system and protects against heart disease. Olive oil must exhibit fruitiness, pepperiness and bitterness to be called “extra virgin.” Moreover, their vinegars are barrel-aged over a decade. Thus, they definitely have a deep and rich flavor with their pleasant sweet taste. I was surprised to know the many different types of vinegars and olive oils exist in this world and how easy it is to discern the distinct characteristics from one to another. This means you can actually figure out that each product has a different flavor profile.

When I was at Pure Mountain, the clerk recommended to pair their extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar and she gave me a pairing guide chart. According to the guide, dark chocolate balsamic, for instance, made a great combination with blood orange olive oil. Before I tasted them, I was not sure if they would give me a good synergetic effect.

The reason for that is I did not realize chocolate could be applied in a vinegar. However, it worked really well: the rich, earthy, bitter and sharp vinegar combined with the blood orange olive oil with its sweet and acidic flavor that counteracted the chocolate vinegar’s bitterness. The combination is full of fruitiness with great body.

They have a great website with a ton of information about their business, paring guidelines, recipes and wholesales. It is much better to visit their website than never visiting. You won’t want to miss that information! (Their website is www.puremountainoliveoil.com) *If you show your CIA student ID, you will get 10% off all products from the shop.

5 Smoky Rock BBQ

house-seasoned meats slow-smoked with cherry maple and hickory woodss BY: Jodie Jones, AOS Baking

This past weekend I had the pleasure of attending the newly available Rhinebeck Culinary Crawl, a wonderful and refreshing experience that truly highlighted the quaint and food centric nature of the small town of Rhinebeck.

One of the restaurants we visited was Smoky Rock BBQ, a great respite in a quiet part of town where you would least expect to find it.

Being such a warm, sunny day the chilly air inside the restaurant was welcoming enough alone. We were greeted with a glass of ice-cold craft beer, a delectably smooth blend of honey and blueberry. This local beer had just the slightest hint of sweetness, a clean palate and a smooth finish. We were served a carefully selected pairing of house smoked pulled pork, sausage and pastrami. Smoky Rock BBQ uses all natural meat and poultry sourced locally and regionally and boasts notes of cherry and hickory and maple woods through the slow smoked process, which takes up to 16 hours. Along with the meats, we were also served cornbread and mashed potatoes. For the vegetarian of our tour group, Smoky Rock BBQ was thoughtful and provided eggplant as a substitute. All of these superbly made items were absolutely delicious and rich and were served alongside the tangy and slightly spicy house barbeque sauce. This barbeque sauce is now available in the Market at The Egg. The entire trip was a delightful experience and a truly enjoyable way to experience such a historically rich town, so near to our school. With its focus on local foods and responsible sourcing, it is a eco-conscious tour that highlights the current and prominent issue of farm to table restaurants.

Sampling plate from Smoky Rock BBQ photo credit: Sera Park

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Stickle’s Five and Dime a trip back in time BY: Yi Si (Crystal) Tan, AOS Baking

On Rhinebeck’s East Market Street, in the heart of Rhinebeck, A.L. Sticke’s five and dime variety store has been open since 1946. Now owned by Leah and Matthew Stickle, the third generation of the family, Stickle’s is still filled with nostalgia invoking vintage household products, crafting products and toys. As the tour entered the shop, we were greeted and presented with vintage violet flavored gum.

This violet flavor is part of Rhinebeck’s history, we learned that when wearing a fresh violet was fashionable, Rhinebeck was filled with so many greenhouses for violet growing that it was nicknamed the “City of Glass”. With the gentle violet aroma in my mouth, I walked around the small variety store that has every kind of product that one might find in

Salad at Sunflower Natural Food Store photo credit: Sera Park

7 Sunflower Natural Food Store natural and organic foods BY: Sera Park, AOS Baking

Are you seriously concerned about healthy diets and environmental protection? If the answer is yes, then going to the Sunflower Nature Foods Market in Rhinebeck is a must.

In 1978, Sunflower Nature Foods Market first launched, providing healthy, organic and local food. They have a tremendous variety of herbal supplements, special diet needs, detox products, medicinal herbs, vitamins, organic produce, and green household products. They support environmental initiatives by using solar power with biodegradable cups, containers and bags made from corn-based plastic. Their cutlery are made of bio plastic, and all of them recyclable to reduce the impact on the environment.

At the backside of the market, there is Sunflower Café and Juice Bar with a few tables and, cozy seats. It is open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. from Monday to Saturday and 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. on Sunday. They use organic foods and source them from local farmers if it is possible. (Summer and fall are good seasons to get great local foods from them.)

There are many gluten-free and vegan options available upon request. We tasted the Sunflower Salad. I could taste natural sweetness from the baby spinach, orange, carrots, beets, and a handful of sunflower seeds that gave a deep nuttiness. Their house vinaigrette balanced all the different natural flavors. The café’s most signature item is the Avocado Classic salad with melted Havarti, avocado, sunflower seeds, mixed greens, and tomatoes with herb seasoning. Their popular drinks are Betwixt (composed of kale, spinach, Italian parsley, celery, lemons, apples and ginger), Berry Berry Powerful (composed of blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, banana, protein powder and any choice of milk such as soy, almond, or rice) and Cacao Pow Wow (composed of cacao, maca powder, banana, protein, flax oil, and any choice of milk). It is just the right season to visit them!

a grandmother’s house. Vintage toys displayed on the top shelves were found in the basement of the store and the current owner had to decline offers from customers for the purchase of these toys. In the very back of the store, there is a knitting garage filled to the brim with colorful and soft yarn.

The comfortable and inviting atmosphere is evident. The knitting garage offers classes for interested knitters. The entire Stickle’s store brings back nostalgic memory and friendly service from the ages passed. It seems that the time did nothing to diminish the charms of A.L. Stickles. As we walked outside of the store and down the main streets of Rhinebeck, I am reluctant to leave this beautifully kept time capsule.

If interested in this tour, please contact Jennifer Brizzi at jen.hvft@gmail.com. CIA students can have a 15% discount with code culstu7.

LA PAPILLOTE

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In Defense of Dining Alone

BY: Rachel Zairan ZHOU, AOS Culinary We seem to have a tendency to dine in groups. Even though most of the countries have evolved from a collective society into a more autonomous structure, dining alone is still noticeable, especially when one is surrounded by a party of energetic people. We gossip about the solitary figure sitting in the corner. Does this person have a bad day, weird, or anti-social?

We have a preconceived idea that people should dine with their friends or co-workers because we are social animals, and eating as an individual is sort of strange or even abnormal.

But the fact is, sometimes people dine alone out of some simple reasons and don`t think dining alone is a miserable situation. How can people socialize with their colleagues during a 20 minute break? I am not a queer advocator; I enjoy sitting within a flock of people, sharing a cornucopia of treasures, being distracted by various clusters of conversations and shaking my head like watching tennis match. The most amazing moment is if when I lose the previous conversation because of my concentration on food, there is no need to panic. At last all the conversations would merge together, all the pieces of the puzzle would be discovered, and all the leftover food would disappear in a very dramatic way.

Speaking of solitary eating, travelling alone is its twin.

No matter how romantic my plan was, chances are, entering alone into a crowded restaurant, I would be seated at the bar.

A charismatic hero coming to chat became an illusion and in front of me were rows of glasses. However, it was by no means banishment; it was a voyage of discovery. After settling down, and finally deciding my order, I started rediscovering the hustle and bustle. The bar is such an interesting place. It is probably the most dynamic part of a restaurant.

Glamorous bottles, glittering liquid and stylish bartenders, yet it was also a secluded sanctuary for individual diners. I felt targeted and unsafe because my back was turned, but I soothed myself that it might enhance my sense on the food.

I tried to avoid eye contact with zealous bartenders; however, I was still hoping they would skip the cliché hospitality of greeting me as a friend. I began playing with the serving plates and utensils to find the brands and tried to count the

BY: Jose Lopez Ganem, AOS Baking & Pastry

Bar view of Brennan’s, New Orleans, LA photo credit: Rachel Zairan Zhou piling glasses waiting to be polished, and finally, my eyes started focusing on the people.

There was my solitary comrade reading a newspaper from two days ago with the crossword page missing; there was a group of young ladies with spontaneous giggles sitting at my eight o`clock and a political fight between servers. Finally my dish was ready to be served. When my savory panna cotta was presented at Odd Duck in Austin, it was smooth and tender like the silky tofu. I was certain I did not order the dessert first. Coming next was the golden-brown and sweet-aroma Parker House roll with a cute popover “mushroom” idling on a drop of mustard sauce. My third plate, a Lamb bratwurst served with cornmeal pancake was so rich and satisfying that I hoped to have an ending of ice-cream.

However, I resisted the temptation because my House ginger beer, remained half full.

I still remembered that heavenly fried chicken on top of the French toast at Lucille’s in Houston, completely changing my greasy impression towards deep-fried food; I could never forget the Shrimp and Alligator Sausage Cheesecake at Jacques-imo’s in New Orleans because it was so popular that

I dared not give a negative opinion to locals. Fuelled with energy and courage, I tried to start a conversation with the people sitting beside me, only to find they were colleagues busy with complaints of their unpleasant. Well, the bar is such an amazing segment. It is the most active spot in a restaurant, gathering the quietest customers. It is not only the personal platform for the independent diner but the “confessional” for unhappy employees. Another advantage of eating alone is I can do as much “food inspection” as I can, not worrying about disdain from the staff, because I am by myself; and one shall always sympathize with a poor person dining alone.

Of course, sporadically, I miss my friends. I started sending sentimental pictures and lines to them. However, they echoed so promptly that I had not even changed into a drama queen. Pictures of food truck barbecue from Colorado, pictures of stroopwafel from Virginia, pictures of dozens of home-made pickles, pictures of a bunch of good wine from a local winery. I felt like I was cheating. I never truly left them, but could still finish the whole plate without being shy, I flirted with bartenders to gain information of local eateries and content myself with an ephemerally solitary life.

Tabasco: A Cacao Journey

The plane’s final approach to Villahermosa’s International Airport, capital city of the State of Tabasco, Mexico; was the perfect opening scene my cacao journey. The Grijalva River zigzags through downtown, preventing any manmade structures to continue expanding, make this metropolis a ‘Mexican Venice’. It is easy to understand why Mexicans regard Tabasco as the “Garden of Eden’ since nature will always be the dominant habitant of this land.

A trip that started with just an interest to hold a fresh cocoa plant in my hand took me to a new dimension of understanding the contemporary generation of the culture that came up with the idea of Xocolátl —the Aztec term for chocolate.

Around 1500 BCE, the first sedentary civilization of Mesoamerica established itself in the basin of the Gulf of Mexico, known today as Tabasco. During the first years of the Common Era, the Olmec; succeeded by the Mayans; were the first to recognize cacao for its flavor and economical value. In several codes and religious writings, the Mayans have treated cacao as a deity. However it was not until the Aztec Empire that cacao gained its ultimate meaning as ‘food of the gods’.

After the Spanish Conquest came the Company of Jesus, whose main objective was to spread the Catholic religion among the native population, which helped some priests to quickly notice the social importance of maize and cacao.

Spanish General Hernan Cortez presented Charles V of Hapsburg with a cup of Xocolátl. Disgusted by the bitterness, the King substituted the achiote chilli (a spice made from the re seed of the annatto tree) for cinnamon, and also added milk

and sugar to balance the flavor. European aristocracy fell in love with this preparation, and called it chocolate. Meanwhile in New Spain (Today, Mexico), the new Hispano-American upper class used the ancestral knowledge to create Chocolate de Mesa, which is still today’s base for traditional Mexican hot chocolate. The working class had to conform themselves with Pozol, a maize-based preparation using pan-roasted cocoa beans, sugar and water. This drink is a part of the current diet of the people of Tabasco.

On the wheel of a rented car en route to Comalcalco, one of the main trade points for cacao in Tabasco, the lush surroundings caught our attention. Thirst pushed us to a stop by a little food stand protected from the sun with banana leaf roof by near the highway, where we indulged in pure coconut water. This family run business sells all the produce that they collect from their small piece of land. A kilo of bananas can hardly reach $0.50 USD. “We love our land, but we can’t force our kids to do so” Don Francisco said. “They have so many options, so farming becomes meaningless”. An unknown world started to revel itself in front of my eye. After some detours we reached the gates of the Hacienda Jesus Maria.

Cacep Chocolates: Building the ‘Route of Cacao’ Owned by Vicente Cacep, an independent cacao producer and chocolate maker, the Hacienda Jesus Maria has been producing chocolate made from criollo cocoa beans.

Beyond being a simple manufacturer, Cacep has set himself a new objective: to reproduce a resistant variety of criollo cocoa plant and distribute it to local producers for free. “Our cocoa fields have been infested by diseases brought by the trinitario variety of cacao” my tour guide Julio explained. Cacep would often emphasize saving the endemic varieties of criollo cacao

plants, which are native to Mexico and Latin America.

Julio walked me through the main area where the incubation of several criollo plants occurs. They grow initially under the artificial shade of a mesh, then after 40 days they are transplanted into the ‘madreada’ or plantation area. This piece of land was given its name because of the tall trees making shade for cacao trees to grow. I was able to see how new vegetation has been introduced to Tabasco from faraway lands, like the cinnamon or black pepper trees, growing next to the cacao trees. Afterwards, some of the plantation workers demonstrated the pruning and harvesting process, which is an essential process of the cacao tree domestication. The tour also included a visit to the chocolate factory, where a few workers carried the task of producing a great variety of products that are available in different stores in Tabasco and Mexico City.

Cacep has used tourism as a way to raise awareness for this growing asset and possible business opportunity for Mexican entrepreneurs. Alongside with cacao and chocolate producers of Comalcalco, the ‘Route of Cacao’ is design to attract national and international visitors to the cacao production areas of Tabasco.

Comalcalco represents an important economical entry point for Tabasco. The oil and natural gas industries have a big financial standing in town. Nevertheless, agriculture has gained a voice in local politics, and now many producers are starting to turn toward this emerging sector. Comalcalco is also a pre-Colombian archeological site, a must-visit site, this place makes you forget about the humid weather and contemplate the nature as the Mayans once did. ...continued on page 12

September 4, 2015

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Events

Sunday

September 6, 2015-September 26, 2015

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Monday

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1pm - Steels Soccer 10am - International Students Only Bus Trip to the Walkway Over the Hudson. Bus leaves CIA at 10AM, returns at 2PM.

Labor Day 9pm - SPICE presents: Karaoke Night in the Egg

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1pm - Steels Soccer 1pm - Steels 10am - International Students Only Bus Trip to Rhinebeck Farmers Market. Bus leaves CIA at 10AM. Returns at 4PM.

1pm - Steels Soccer 20 2pm - Steels 8am - Student Activities Bus Trip: NYC Food Walking Tour. Bus departs St. Andy’s at 8AM and leaves NYC at 8PM.

Tuesday

3pm - Chili Cookoff entries are due to the SRC front desk 5pm - Registration for CIA Tennis Tournament due

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Wednesday

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9:15pm - La Papillote Open Editorial meeting

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-Taste the Rhythm Dance Club- SRC, Group Fitness Room -Culinary Christian Fellowship- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -Culinary Notes- SRC, Multipurpose Room (East) -Veterans Association & Auxiliary- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -CHOP’T- SRC Pool Lounge

Conrad N. Hilton Library Learning Library Commons: Monday-Thursday: 7:30am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 7:30am-7:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Video Center Hours: Campus Store Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm 10:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00amFriday: 8:30am-5:00pm 6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm

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9:15pm - SPICE

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CIA Tennis tournament begins

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Thursday

17 9:15pm - SPICE

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4:30pm - CHOP’T 9:15pm - Student Government Association Public Meeting

9:15pm - SPICE

Club Meeting Locations

-Bacchus Wine Society- Wine Spectator Classroom -Public SGA Meetings- SRC, Multipurpose Room -Gay Straight Alliance Club- Pick Lounge -The Word Poetry Club- SRC Pool Lounge -SPICE- SRC Conference Room -Black Culinarian Society- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -Guild of Tea- Admissions EcoLab Theater

Hours of Operation

Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends) Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:30pm

Apple Pie Monday-Friday: 7:30am-5:00pm (when classes are in session)

The Egg Monday-Friday: 5:30am-11:00pm Saturday & Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm

Student Recreation Center Monday-Thursday: 7:00amMidnight Friday: 7:00am-10:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:00pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm

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Friday

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Saturday

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10pm -Absolutely FREE Movie Series: Jurassic World in the Marriott Theatre

1pm - Steels Soccer 1pm - Steels 9pm - Casino Night in the Lower Level Marriott

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9:15pm - The Word Poetry Club Open Mic Night in the Egg

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9pm - SPICE presents Hot Wing Eating Contest

12pm - Steels Cross 1pm - Steels Soccer 1pm - Steels

11am - Steels Cross 1pm - Steels Soccer 2pm - Steels

-CIA Paintball Coalition- SRC, Multipurpose Room -Korean Association- Wine Spectator Classroom -Culinarians Against Cancer- Admissions EcoLab Theater -Slow Food- Anheuser Busch Theater -Eta Sigma Delta- Admissions EcoLab Theater -La Papillote- SRC Conference Room -Club Con- Marriot Pavillion-Lower Level

Pool Hours Monday-Thursday: 10:00am1:00pm & 3:00pm-10:00pm Friday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-7:00pm Saturday & Sunday: Noon-7:00pm Resident Life Monday-Friday: 7:00am-5:00pm

Campus Safety Open 24 hours 7 Days a week Health Services Monday-Friday: 7:00am-8:45pm Career Services Monday-Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Drop in: 9:00am-1:00pm 2:00pm-4:00pm

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(East)

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LA PAPILLOTE

Graduation

AOS Graduating Class of September 4, 2015

Culinary Arts Group #1

Front Row: Han Seok Seo, Dillon McCarty, Owen Hankle, Felicia J. Gane, Hye Jun Lee, Hee Yeon Hwang Back Row: Humberto Contreras, Victoria Seligman, Ryley Breitzman, Alexander Telinde, Frederico D’Andretta, Joshua Okerblom

Culinary Arts Group #3

Front Row: Elizabeth Dulin, Tess Wolverton, Amanda B. Wicelinski, Meagan Curtis, Julianne Young, Brenda Villacorta, Alysia Janikowski, Back Row: Jacoby Dinges, Kathleen Faliskie, Soowon Lee, Christopher S. Lunsford Jr., Andrea Irsfeld, Benjamin Savage, Jenny Delisa, Kristina Garbett, Isabel Visco Feith

Culinary Arts Group #2

Front Row: Bo Hyun Kim, Marco Grajeda, Adam Angelucci, Alexis Mongiello, Elizabeth Ramos Back Row: Leo Cho, Zachary Lovenguth, Ramon Cuffie, Andrew Chung, Jeremy Sawyer, Chris Owens

Culinary Arts Group #4

Front Row: Evan Campbell, Eric Petit, Kelly Hackett Back Row: Karina Yepez, Jessica Bird, Natalia Nepveu, Shruti Sahni, Rachel Gurjar

Spicy Mexican Hot Chocolate Cookies BY: Maddy Morrison, AOS Culinary A glorious batch of mole can be made from rich chocolate, let alone chocolate from Mexico, but here’s a wonderful cookie that highlights one of the most favored flavor combinations in Mexican cuisine, spicy and sweet.

INGREDIENTS 1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter 4 ounces good-quality Mexican chocolate, coarsely chopped 1 cup packed light brown sugar ½ cup granulated sugar 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract 2 large eggs 1 cup AP flour ½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon chili powder ½ teaspoon baking soda ½ teaspoon kosher salt ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips

Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. In a heatproof bowl set over simmering water, melt the butter and chocolate together, whisking until glossy and smooth. Alternately, the butter and chocolate can be melted in the microwave (in a microwave-safe bowl) in 25-second increments, whisking between each interval.

Cool the chocolate mixture to room temperature.

In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or a hand-held mixer), beat the brown sugar, granulated sugar, vanilla extract and eggs on low speed until well combined. Pour in the cooled chocolate and continue to mix until the ingredients are evenly distributed.

In a medium bowl sift together the flour, cocoa powder, cinnamon, chili powder, baking soda, salt and cayenne pepper. Add the dry ingredients to the chocolate batter and mix on low speed until just combined and no visible flour remains. Fold in the chocolate chips with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon.

Working in two batches, scoop 12 balls of dough (preferably using a small ice cream scoop with a spring handle, about 1½ tablespoon size) onto a parchment-lined sheet pan, leaving at least 1½ inches of space between each cookie. Bake the cookies, one pan at a time, for approximately 14 minutes, rotating the pan halfway through cooking time. The cookies should be puffy and still fairly soft when removed from the oven.

photo credit: Maddy Morrison Immediately slide the cookies, still on the parchment paper, onto a wire cooling rack. Cool just a bit before serving, 5 to 10 minutes. Cookies can be stored in airtight container for up to three days, but I prefer them on the day they are baked.

September 4, 2015

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AOS Graduation Speaker: Justin Smillie Partner and Executive Chef Upland

BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor

photo couresy of Leslie Jennings

Justin Smillie is partner and executive chef of Upland in New York City, where he pays tribute to his culinary mentors and inspirations by offering dishes that showcase his California roots and seasonal, rustic culinary sensibilities.

Born in Upland, CA and raised in New Jersey and California, Chef Smillie found himself inspired by the rustic elements of the outdoors while camping, foraging for wild ingredients, and fly-fishing in the rural areas in which he grew up.

He began his culinary career at the age of 17 at The Bernards Inn under Chef Edward Stone ’82, where he got his first taste of kitchen life. Two years on the line was all it took before he was hooked, and he quickly enrolled at The Culinary Institute of America to hone his fine-dining techniques and round out his culinary education.

After attending the CIA, Chef Smillie secured a position at Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s Mercer Kitchen, followed by posts at Danny Meyer’s Gramercy Tavern and Jonathan Waxman’s Washington Park. He next earned a chef position at Waxman’s Barbuto. In the six years Chef Smillie spent under Chef Waxman’s attentive eye, he fell in love with the bold flavors and rustic techniques

Sudoku

showcased in the restaurant, and this philosophy stuck with him.

In 2010, he was invited by Chef Daniel Silverman to help open André Balazs’s The Standard in New York.

There Chef Smillie worked winters, followed by two summers as executive chef of Balazs’s Sunset Beach on Shelter Island, NY. He was then introduced to Il Buco owner Donna Lennard, who named him executive chef of Il Buco Alimentari e Vineria, an Italian trattoria where he earned three stars from The New York Times.

In 2014, Chef Smillie met Stephen Starr, and the two decided to collaborate on a new restaurant: Upland.

Since opening Upland, Chef Smillie has received critical and popular acclaim from outlets including The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Saveur, GQ, The Washington Post, and The New Yorker. In 2012, New York magazine named him one of the five best chefs of the year.

A supporter of organizations including CookiesforKidsCancer, Chefs4Kids!, the Edible Schoolyard, and Share Our Strength, Chef Smillie’s debut cookbook, Slow Fires: Mastering New Ways to Roast, Braise, and Grill, is scheduled to be released in November 2015.

Last Block’s Puzzle Solution

Level: Medium

Summer Time Fun

The solution will be in the next issue.

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12

LA PAPILLOTE

In The Industry

continued from page 8...

Tabasco: A Cacao Journey Continued chocolate market, we will be able to supply the cocoa with the correct flavor profile, and the demand on Mexican beans will increase, so will the living standards of our producers” Azpetia stated this as his final goal. The INIFAP research team has met experts from the chocolate industry like Valrhona, to leading bean-to-bar Maître-Chocolatiers like Shawn Askinoise. After almost 4 hours of going through all the experimental camps, testing different roasted cocoa beans and exchanging anecdotes, the sole experience of meeting Dr. Azpetia elevated my interest in cacao, and even my Mexican patriotism.

Cacao pod ready to be harvested in the experimental fields at INIFAP Research Center. photo credit: Jose Lopez Ganem

Cacao pods shells used as fertilizer at Hacienda Jesus Maria photo credit: Jose Lopez Ganem INIFAP: Research to benefit the cacao producers In Huimanguillo, south of Tabasco, we visited the National Research Institute for Agriculture, Fishing and Forest Preservation, that belongs to the Department of Agriculture of Mexico’s Federal Government. Dr. Alfoso Azpetia, head of the cacao development project, hosted a personal tour through the research camp where over 600 genotypes are being tested for productivity and resistance to diseases.

“By following a controlled process, we have been able to identify several varieties with high yield and moderate to high resistance to fungi like moniliophthora and black spot” Azpetia explained. Moniliophthora is a fungi that affects cocoa production in Latina America. It first appeared in the last half of the nineteen century in Ecuador, and confirmed in 1950 by scientists in Ecuador and western Venezuela. Moniliasis reached Mexico in 2005, and is responsible in killing kill almost half of the healthy cocoa pods each harvest season.

Dr. Azpetia is enthusiastic about providing the right type of variety to the local producers. “By understanding the

Photography Club Corner BY: Melissa McQuoid, BPS Culinary Attention to detail is an important factor for both a photographer and chef. You need to respect your ingredients and in return they will result in something beautiful. Coffee can easily be both amazing and revolting depending on the preparation and execution of the beans. Such a simple “bean” is the beginning to a nation wide obsession. Instead of focusing on the end result and fancy latte designs, beauty can be just as easily found in the simplicity of the beans that make them.

Photo courtesy of Melissa McQuoid

The National Association of Cacao Producers: Reinventing an institution The last stop on the cacao journey was in Cárdenas, the second most important city in Tabasco, where the headquarters of the National Association of Cacao Producers have been since the early 2000’s. Esteban Avalos and Alfonso Ramos Mancilla were elected to administrate this institution in 2012. The purpose of this institution is to control the cacao trade in the 8 producing counties of Tabasco. The main aspects of its activity cover the fermentation and roasting of the cocoa beans, the transportation, and giving added value, in other words, make chocolate. Unfortunately, a past marked by corruption and conflicts of interest, has forced many producers to look for secondary options for their cacao. Avalos administration is making a huge effort to regain the trust from the local producers.

Lilibeth Ramos, responsible for Media, told me that apart from all the damage that the National Association has suffered, they have subsisted alone, with no private or government influences. “We think of ourselves as being owned by the 20,000

producers that are members of our organization” she said.

“Our main threats are the imports of African cacao going into Mexico, not only because of the big names of the low-cost chocolate industry, but also the manufacturers of ‘artisanal’ products like Chocolate de Mesa are consuming such c ommodities” Ramos commented.

At last, Ms. Ramos walked with us to the cocoa bean storage. I was astonished when I saw the piles of cocoa sacks that almost filled the room to its capacity. “In Tabasco, whoever devotes himself to harvest cacao will be poor, the one that makes chocolate will be rich; we are trying to modify that” said Lilibeth Ramos in her final statement.

Hours before my flight back to Mexico City, I visited La Fisheria for a last bite. After the meal, the acclaimed chef/owner, Aquiles Chavez, approached my table and sat down to chat about chocolate. “The chocolate issue is no longer a gastronomically pure domain”, he said “We can’t allow our producers to sell their land to the oil company because that will give them more money”. Chavez is known for his authentic and casual cuisine, and is regard as a pioneer in fine dining in Villahermosa. He has been the backbone for organizing the Chocolate Fair every year during the month of October, where renowned Mexican chocolatiers and local producers participate in a series of events regarding the bitter sweet treasure of Tabasco.

“Chocolate is the motive, but it really becomes a party for the people” affirmed Chef Chavez.

Mexican cacao is a great option in the flavor market.

We share in a democratic coexistence several varieties with our Mesoamerican neighbors with no one being better than the other. In contrast, the Mexican cultural heritage of chocolate is different. The unique techniques and knowledge that Mexican people have in their daily lives should be appreciated as much as the European approaches. More than ever, names like Jose Ramon Castillo (Que Bo! Chocolates) and Juan Pablo Cortez (Xcanda Chocolates) are mention in the Salon du Chocolat in Paris or at the World Chocolate Master series.

My cocoa journey has connected me back to the roots of a culture that I am a part of, but often forgets about. Key players involved in the cacao and chocolate industries in Mexico are slowly moving towards the same direction. The main area of opportunity does not lay in the possibilities of generating scientific knowledge, but in finding the human capital that is willing to build the bridge between these research efforts, public policy makers and the food entrepreneurs, these by training the producers and gaining awareness of the chocolate industry leaders in Mexico and aboard. For sure, Mexicans have not lost their touch for Xocolátl.

Cacao pod ready to be harvested in the experimental fields at INIFAP Research Center photo credit: Jose Lopez Ganem