Volume 36, No.13
October 16, 2015
Thomas Keller Imparts Wisdom onto CIA Students Renowned Chef and Board of Trustee Member
BY: Sarah Lubitz, AOS Culinary On October 7th, I had the honor of interviewing Chef Thomas Keller while he was on campus for a board of directors meeting here at CIA. Chef Keller is a chef that often needs little introduction because his work tends to speak for itself. But, it certainly does not hurt to go over his list of accomplishments. Thomas Keller has created many legendary restaurants. He started with his flagship, The French Laundry, in Yountville, California in 1994. Bouchon followed in 1998, and Bouchon Bakery opened a few years later. In February 2004, Keller opened Per Se in New York City. Ad Hoc opened in 2006, the most casual of all of his restaurants. For most of us here at The Culinary, we look to Thomas Keller as a source of inspiration. His career is one that serves as an example of determination, passion, and innovation. When I realized that I had the chance to interview Thomas Keller, I realized that I needed to ask questions that would be beneficial to not only me, but beneficial to all of the students at CIA. My encounter with Chef Keller was one that I will treasure for the rest of my life. He was kind and insightful, and his calm voice and his laughter made me feel less nervous than I felt. (I was a bundle of nerves!) After the interview, he stayed afterwards to get a picture with me and with other students. I still cannot believe that day happened. Once I had interviewed Thomas Keller, I discussed my interview with Chef McCue. He casually suggested that I ask some chefs here at The Culinary the same questions that I asked Chef Keller. Curious to see the results of this, I sought out some chef instructors. Those interviews will be featured in the next issue of La Papillote! The following is my interview with Thomas Keller: Q: What made you decide to partner with CIA? A: It wasn’t a decision, it was an invitation from Tim Ryan, who holds a position I have a high regard and high respect for, and he’s a very good friend. I think that his vision and determination in regards to the school has been exemplary and forward thinking, and I was just
photos courtesy of Sarah Lubitz happy and honored to be invited to be a part of sous chef, and then the chef. If you’re always that and, in a small way, contribute my opinion thinking about that, and not necessarily wakand my expertise in any way that would benefit ing up and going, “Wow, I’m in a really good the school. spot right now. I should just really enjoy this moment. Because, in a year, or two years, or Q: What is the most important thing that you three years, I want to be that sous chef.” So, be have learned that you can pass onto students? patient. The second word is being persistent. A: That’s a good question, and it’s been asked I think persistence is really important, and I before, and I always come back to basically the didn’t live the patient part of it, I learned that. same two words. Patience, first of all – being But, I did live the persistence part of that. You patient with your career and your education, can never let anyone tell you that you cannot do being in the moment, and not thinking about something. If you fail, get up and do it again, where you want to be tomorrow. Because, if find a different way, open a different door. you think about where you want to be tomorDon’t give up on yourself, don’t let anybody row today, you’re not going to get there because diminish your determination, and maintain that you need to be thinking about today and what commitment to your career, to your life, to your you’re doing today. And, the most important vision. part of that is having patience with yourself, having patience with those around you, having Q: What advice do you have for dealing with patience with your career so that you are able the high stress of this business? to learn, so you experience and gain knowledge A: You know, it’s something that – I may be in the moment so you can actually apprecistrange, or peculiar, or unique – I don’t find [it] ate your career. Some of the best times of my stressful. I’ve always said that what we do is – career were times when I was a young cook we’re athletes, I’ve said that for decades. cooking on the line. I always wanted to be the ...continued on page 5
P3
“Making Changes: We Must Change Our Surroundings”
“What is the Future of Chocolate?”
P 4-5
CENTER SPREAD
P 6-7
BACK PAGE
“Unclogging the Problem”
P 8-9
P 12
“Cosme, A Mexican Fine “Thinking About Chocolate: MUCHO Museum” Dining Experience”
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LA PAPILLOTE
Editorial
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
From the Editor’s Desk: Mentorship and Well Wishes
BY: Yi Si (Crystal) Tan, Editor-in-Chief October 16, 2015
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Yi Si (Crystal) Tan LAYOUT EDITOR Yejin Yoon ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS SARAH LUBITZ KEVIN MARKEY MATTHEW MILLER CINDY YUONG IAN GILCHRIST SERA PARK
MADDY MORRISON PAMELA RUBIOS PINA CAMERON CAVIDA ARTURO ALVAREZ RACHEL ZHOU MATTHEW STOCKER JOSE LOPEZ GANEM
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Connor White, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Papillote and encouraged me to keep a portfolio. So when I became the Editor, I couldn’t have been happier telling Dewey the news of my editorship. On October 14th, Dewey travelled to the CIA to present on Médoc wines. I was ecstatic to meet Dewey again before my graduation. Dewey has been a great support whenever I needed help and it was great to see his warm smile and feel the friendliness in his advices. My connection with Dewey through writing will always be what makes La Papillote that more special. Eight issues in seven months later, my time as the editor is up. I am graduating. After all the classes in the bakeshops, I am ready to walk across the stage. However, it is difficult to say goodbye to the role I have settled in and the publication close to my heart. It has been a pleasure, exciting and fun, with the work being similar to piping homework or knife skill Yi Si (Crystal) Tan with Dewey Markham Jr. practices, but involving more coffee. photo courtesy of Gerardo Gonzalaez Huizar La Papillote has provided me, and I hope our readers too, a remarkably wide array of My best mentor is an alumus of the Culiinformation in the culinary and hospitality nary Insitute of America – and when I found field. There has been travel journals, restauMr. Dewey Markham Jr., he was all the way rant reviews, recipes and of course, reports on across the Atlantic Ocean. It was certainly an campus events. I had hoped that picking up an interesting and amusing experience to find a issue of La Papillote will be like picking up a mentor through the CIA mentorship program. box of assorted cookies and worked towards No names were listed, only selected informathat goal. tion such as occupation, geographical location Much of my enjoyment comes from workand interests. To me, a mentor is a brain to ing with people I like, our writers. I have pick, an ear to listen, and a push in the right never ceased to be amazed by our wonderful direction, exactly what I needed as a freshly writers that are eagerly up for challenges. In enrolled student. Dewey has given me advice my first editorial I promised to create a place on finding the perfect externship site and of growth for both readers and writers alike, shared his past experience at the CIA. I am and I believed I have succeeded. We now have very glad to have such a person to turn to for more active writers than ever. We now plan advice and wisdom. local events and outings. We are a team of During my externship at the Vineyard in dedicated writers that creates something we England, I have visited Dewey in Bordeaux, can be proud of every block. France. My trip to Bordeaux was filled with I must give my thanks to the editorial board warm winter sunlight many, many caneles. In members who have been so unfailingly supthe wonderful Le Café Napoleon 3 near the portive when asked and even when not asked. Place de la Comedie, Dewey and I met face to Their tireless support through the publication face for the first time. Turns out, he had also process will never be unnoticed. We are still written for La Papillote during his time at the constantly evolving with new writers joinCIA through contributing film reviews every ing on board and the use of new social media. issue. Dewey’s interest lies in wine and he has While I will continue to be involved with La written a James Beard award winning book Papillote as a writer, I wish La Papillote, as I on the history of Bordeaux classifications. He have always, a bright future. is very supportive of my contributions to La
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The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations
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October 16, 2015
3
Making Changes: We Must Change Our Surroundings
BY: Kevin Markey, ACE Culinary Walk into any supermarket in America, at any time of day, and there is an endless supply of food. From fresh fruits and vegetables, to “enriched” sugary snacks, we have an entire world’s worth of food at our fingertips, and it now costs less than it ever has before. We spend roughly nine percent of our monthly income on sustaining ourselves, as opposed to just fifty years ago when we spent twenty-six percent. In contrast, our medical expenditures have doubled in that time. Adding chemicals to food has decreased the cost of producing them, but what about the fact that we are adding chemicals to FOOD?! If you paid attention in Gastronomy, you know the history of how processed food came to be. In case you did not, WWII forced many women to move to the work place and so the TV dinner became prevalent. Post WWII, processed food was a sign of privilege and scientific achievement. But, the effects were not to be seen for decades to come. Now, the tables have turned. Fresh and organic are signs of wealth, whereas cheap, packaged food is consumed mostly by those too impoverished to maintain a healthy diet. According to recent numbers from the CDC, approximately 78.6 million Americans are overweight and, in turn, are undernourished. The five top food companies according to Forbes, PepsiCo, Dole, General Mills, Nestle, and Kraft, grossed roughly a quarter trillion dollars last year. Delving into the corporate takeover of food, however, will be for another time, as one of those five mentioned above happens to be a major benefactor to this school. This is not just an American burden. All over the world, malnutrition is growing increasingly more common. What was once the ‘African problem,’ as it is referred to by one particular bushy-tailed media outlet, is no longer present in just Africa. From India to Brazil, China and Southeast Asia, and Mexico along with much of Central America, there are people living in food deserts. Places where, despite much of the land being utilized for agriculture, the people are starving to death. How can this happen, you ask? How can rich farmland be inhabited by people without enough money to support not
only themselves, but their families? There is no easy button that makes all of this go away. But, I can tell you that it is not because the people suffering are not working hard enough, or because they just have not figured out how help themselves yet. Western society has promoted an ideology of ‘us and them,’ which has created a divide between cultures that has impacted everyone living on this beautiful, blue planet. Whether it is the $20 billion in ‘humanitarian aid’ that is pocketed by ‘politicians’ in the poorest countries, the monopolization of the agricultural industry, or the extreme and obvious connection between big business and the government, it is no wonder that the current and incoming generations have such an ‘f-it’ attitude towards creating change. That is where we have lost our way; we have forgotten that we are all connected, every one of the 7.3 billion inhabitants of earth. What one person does affects us all somehow. Even now, when we are more communicative with each other than ever before, we have become more disconnected as well. Being pessimistic, however, is too easy. I have never been the type to stray from a confrontation; I am, at my core, a Navy man. “Damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead,” said Admiral David Farragut. By this credo, I therefore challenge my peers to do one of the hardest things possible in the face of almost certain disaster: remain positive. Cliché? Yes. But, you know what? Forget about what society thinks for two seconds, forget about how cool you are trying not to be, and think about your fellow humans on this planet that are going to go to bed tonight with an empty stomach. Think about how we, as a generation, can do something to make sure that never happens again. Because, I do not know the answer. My friends joke that I am “so old.” What I am realizing is how right, and wrong, they actually are. They are right in the sense that I have lived a lot of life in my twenty-seven years, and they are wrong in that I have a lot of life still before me. But, slowly creeping into my head is that warning that I heard from all my relatives when I kept wishing I was older: “Don’t wish it all away; before you know it, it’ll be over.”
Thank you to all of the writers and editorial staff!
photo courtesy Arturo Alvarez
Presentation at the Second International Conference on global food security photo courtesy of Kevin Markey Time is a funny thing. When you are young, it appears to just creep by. But, soon, we will all be old, and we will watch as time slips through our fingers. Take advantage of the time you have and do something that will last beyond your short life span. And, I cannot think of something better to do than to simply improve your surroundings. Right now, my surroundings include this school. And, all of you reading this are my peers. All I do right now is in the eventual benefit of us, in the hope that, together, we can change the world. Do not get me wrong, I came here to better myself as well. Everyone wants to be a better person, but I have learned through many mistakes that it is about the people around you that make you who you are. That is why I chose the CIA. I chose a group of people that I knew wanted to be the best. It was very similar with my time in the military. I served with the Marines for more than two years. Most Marines joined because they really are “the few and the proud.” It is not sales pitch, it is about holding yourself to a standard above anything you thought you were capable of. We, as the future leaders of the industry, are capable of accomplishing the level of change needed to survive. To quote the late and great 2Pac Shakur, “We gotta make a change…It’s time for us as a people to start makin’ some changes. Let’s change the way we eat, let’s change the way live, and change the way we treat each other. You see, the old way wasn’t working, so it’s on us to do what we gotta do, to survive.”
LA PAPILLOTE
4
Pumpkin Spice and Everything Nice
BY: Matthew Miller, AOS Culinary Ah, fall is here. The leaves are changing, the Cowboys and Giants are fighting not to be the worst, Halloween and Thanksgiving are looming right around the corner, and everyone and their stepmothers seems to be dying to get their hands on a beloved, disgusting, pumpkin spiced latte. What is this bizarre obsession? Almost like a ritual, a rite of passage, for some perverse autumnal cult. What is it with this season that makes soccer moms and sorority girls have an insatiable taste for artificial pumpkin? We must go back to simpler times. Before Columbus, before the pilgrims, the Native Americans were kings of the pumpkin. Pumpkin, along with various other types of squash, had been cultivated by Native Americans long before the emergence of corn. However, once maize became the number one native crop, the pumpkin reached essential status as a part of the tradition referred to as “three sisters.” The three sisters - corn, beans, and squash - were crops that, when grown together, formed the perfect symbiotic relationship. The corn provided a place for the beans to grow. The beans, in return, provided nitrogen that helped sustain the soil. And, the squash, or pumpkin, preserved the moisture of the other plants’ roots, and weakened the chance for weeds to grow. This sustainable farming method provided an abundance of harvest, and the pumpkin, along with corn and beans, became a hallmark of the Native American diet, cuisine, and culture. The pumpkin was consumed in a variety of ways; they were baked, they were boiled, they were roasted. They
were dried to provide food during the harsh winters. Their seeds were toasted and ground up into flour. So, naturally, when the pilgrims arrived, the natives were quick to share the secrets of this mighty versatile gourd. By the second Thanksgiving, the pumpkin was a centerpiece of the pilgrim’s celebration, but it was not served as the “classic” pumpkin pie that we know and love today. These colonists would scoop out the seeds and fill the pumpkin with a custard-like base of cream, eggs, and honey. After cooking, they would scoop out this custard, along with the cooked meat of the pumpkin, and what resulted was a delicious, proto-pie that we have to thank every year as we watch the Macy’s Day Parade from our La-Z-Boys. The pumpkin was so vital and important to these new Americans, they celebrated it with words: “For pottage and puddings and custards and pies Our pumpkins and parsnips are common supplies, We have pumpkins at morning and pumpkins at noon, If it were not for pumpkins we should be undoon.” -Pilgrim verse, circa 1633 By the late 1800’s, the pumpkin was the emblem for fall harvest, and it only solidified its place in our seasonal history with the incarnation of Halloween, the original community harvest festival. The Jack-O-Lantern had been an English tradition long before the pilgrims journeyed across the Atlantic. Originally, Jack-O-Lanterns were carved from any root vegetables that were available: parsnips, turnips, beets, etc. Centuries later,
the colonists realized that the pumpkin was the perfect alternative for carving. Taking old traditions and blending them with the new, the pumpkin became representative of the spirit of America, arguably more American than even apple pie. Fast forward to the twenty-first century. We live in a time where it seems everything that can be, will be commodified. We are the Starbucks generation. What better way to celebrate the changing of the seasons than to make a couple of bucks from it? We do not need to look at the leaves on the trees to know that fall has arrived. We have pumpkin bagels and pumpkin schmear, pumpkin pies, and pumpkin beer. And, I am okay with that. This is our Americana, and it is the only one we know. So, if you are interested in drinking the pumpkin flavored Kool-Aid, just open your eyes; fall is all around you – it is on your TV, on your computer screens, and in your drinks. Thirsty? I hear The Egg makes a mad pumpkin spice latte. “Pumpkin Spiced” Pumpkin Seeds 1/2 tbs ground coffee 1 1/2 C pumpkin seeds 1/2 tbs brown sugar 2 tsp oil 1 tsp cayenne pepper 1/2 tsp nutmeg 1/8 tsp ground clove 1 tsp salt Preheat oven to 300 degrees F (150 C). Toss seeds in a bowl with oil and spices. Spread seeds in a single layer on a baking sheet and bake for about 45 minutes or until golden brown. Stir occasionally.
Mini Apple Hand Pie Recipe
BY: Cindy Yuong, AOS Baking and Pastry With autumn making its return, seasonal spices are making their way back to the kitchen. Cinnamon spice finds its way to crisp apples in the oven, permeating the room with the warming aroma of freshly baked apple pie. What better way to use the leftovers of apple picking than in these festive little hand pies? Mini Apple Hand Pie Recipe 2 ½ c pastry flour Pinch of salt 2 sticks (8 oz) butter, cold, cubed ½ c (4 oz) cold water Apple Filling: 3 medium apples, peeled, cored, and diced ½ cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon cinnamon, or sub apple pie spice Pinch of salt 1 tablespoon cornstarch 2 tablespoons butter, melted 1 teaspoon lemon juice Egg wash: 1 egg yolk, 1 teaspoon water, and a small pinch of salt whisked together
Directions:
To make the pie dough, have your butter cut into ½ inch cubes and kept cold. Sift the pastry flour and salt and place in a bowl. Add butter to the flour mixture and carefully rub it into the
flour, squeezing and separating the butter until they are small, pea-sized pieces. (This can also be done in a food processor by pulsing.) Add the cold water all at once and mix by hand until just combined. Divide the dough in half and separate into two discs. Lightly dust the dough with flour as needed. Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes. Pre-heat the oven to 375 degrees F. Meanwhile, wash the apples and peel, core, and chop the apples into small pieces. Toss all the dry ingredients together and set aside. Remove the chilled dough and on a floured surface, roll each dough disc out to ¼ inch. Using a 3-inch cookie cutter, cut 24 circles from the dough, rerolling as necessary. Transfer the circles to a parchment lined baking sheet and place in the fridge. To finish the apple filling, add the dry ingredients, lemon juice, and melted butter to the bowl of apples and toss to coat. Remove the pie crusts from the fridge. Place a tablespoon of the apple filling on the center of each circle with a stick. Brush the edges with egg wash. Using the other 12 dough circles, slightly stretch each one out from the center to enlarge it and lay the circle on top. Optional: If you want equally delicious, adorable pie pops, press cake pop or popsicle
sticks slightly into the dough of half the circles before adding the filling. Press the two layers together and crimp the edges with a fork. Create vents in the top by making cuts with a knife. Brush with egg wash and sprinkle with coarse or cinnamon sugar for decoration. Bake for 15-20 minutes. The crust should be a light golden brown and the filling will be bubbling. Carefully remove from the oven as the filling is piping hot. Let cool before removing. Serve with ice cream and caramel sauce nearby for the ultimate fall holiday experience.
photo courtesy of catchmyparty.com
October 16, 2015
5
What is the Future of Chocolate?
BY: Ian Gilchrist, AOS Baking and Pastry As aspiring chefs, we should know not only how to use ingredients, but also know where they come from, and how our choices affect the world. The cacao industry is one facet that intertwines politics, ethics, sustainability, and human rights. It is both luxurious and insidious. This article will be the first in a series focusing on the ethics, biodiversity, and politics of the chocolate industry, and what is being done to solve these problems. Theobroma Cacao, the cacao tree, only grows in a narrow band along the equator. It thrives in hot and humid climates, with plenty of water and shade. Theobroma calls Africa, Central, and South America, and the South Pacific home, and each region produces vast quantities of chocolate. However, the world’s consumption of chocolate has reached a tipping point; production no longer keeps pace with demand, due to modern diseases ravaging cocoa plantations. They have exotic names like “Witches Broom,” “Horsehair Blight,” and “Frosty Pod,” and they are crippling chocolate production, putting greater pressures on rural cocoa farmers. A shifting climate, coupled with pests and armed conflict in many cocoa growing regions, has eliminated, by some estimates, one-third of the world’s chocolate supply. Currently, the world consumes two million tons of chocolate annually, and Bloomberg projects that demand will “outstrip supply by one million tons for every decade.” This has driven cocoa bean prices higher, raising chocolate prices further down the supply line. Cocoa farmers are looking for cheap alternatives, or other crops to grow to improve their income, such as corn, bananas, and rubber. For decades, the industry has been walking this precarious balancing act between quantity and quality and, unfortunately, “quantity” seems to be winning. This past summer, I attended the Fine Chocolate Industry Association’s (FCIA) conference
new engineered varietal. Not only is this strain cheap, but it grows quickly and is immune to the fungi and disease that plagues its relatives and it produces upwards of seven to ten times more cocoa beans than the average tree. NPR reports that Ecuador has successfully grown CCN-51, and it has become a cheap, effective alternative, and now “makes up half of the supply in Ecuador” with new crops appearing in Indonesia, Peru, and Brazil. But, there is a catch: the taste, chocolatiers told me at the FCIA Conference, is horrible; like sour pennies. When fermented and processed, CCN-51 may look and feel like chocolate, but it has almost no flavor. Hershey’s has begun incorporating this strain into their chocolate, masking it with increased sugar, vanilla, and milk solids. CCN51, by itself, has the ability to homogenize the entire chocolate industry and change the way we think and use chocolate. Fine chocolate, Bloomberg projects, may become a high-priced luxury item by 2030 if trends continue. I spoke with Chef McCarrick in the Baking photo courtesy of Wikimedia Commons & Pastry program about his time as a chocoin New York City. Major figures from the fine latier, working directly with the fine chocolate chocolate industry were in attendance, and evindustry. “When I worked for Sir Hans Sloane eryone was talking about the chocolate shortage in London, we sourced upwards of two or more and strategies for chocolatiers to preserve their tons of cocoa from farmers we personally negobusinesses. The FCIA has started the heirloom tiated with; there was no third party involved, cacao preservation, a scientific approach to pre- it was single origin.” Chef McCarrick is all serving fine chocolate strains in the wake of en- about the quality and authenticity of his chocovironmental problems, with stringent evaluation late. He added that “When you are a chef, you protocols and genetic research from the Cocoa want to select the finest ingredients; you might Research Centre in Brazil. Nearly every comuse cocoa from Panama or Vietnam.” Working pany at the conference was working with Fair directly with growers, he added, requires years Trade and the Danish UTZ organization to cerof building trusting relationships with cocoa tify the quality and authenticity of their chocofarmers. late. One cocoa variety was on everyone’s lips: Chef McCarrick is encouraged that each “CCN-51, the Darth Vader of Chocolate,” said year the consumption of fine chocolate inDan Pearson during his keynote presentation. creases and so does the understanding of the Chocolate is following a similar pattern as consumer. He explained the similarity of how the corn industry is following. When disease “complex and evolving” the mouth sensation and unfavorable weather threatens a crop, the could be, like a fine glass of red wine, with world looks to science for the answer, and care- intervals of taste. ful research has produced CCN-51 as a brand
Thomas Keller Imparts Wisdom onto CIA Students (continued)
I’m still part of this sports franchise, but now I run this sports franchise as opposed to being a player in this sports franchise. You grow, you’re the rookie, and then you move into being all of these different players, and then you become a franchise player, the guy who everyone looks to. And, then, you can only be that for such a period of time because it’s a physical activity, you can’t be that for your entire life. You better be planning for that next phase of your life. But, it’s just that; it’s a sports franchise. When you look at sports, or if you want to look at the military, the most extraordinary things happen in those situations when? When the pressure is the highest. You see the most extraordinary plays, you see a soldier doing an extraordinary heroic thing at the time when that stress or that pressure is the most intense. I think we live in that kind of environment and, when we’re on the line, and
service has begun, those four or five hours, that your moment, that’s your game, and, you’ve got to be on. You have to be able to deal with that kind of pressure and that kind of stress. When it’s the most intense is when you have to pull yourself out and say, “Okay, I’m going to make this play, I’m going to be the hero. I’m going to do it.” I think that’s important, to have that kind of innate desire and determination to realize when those moments are the highest pressure that you can perform at the highest level, and know you can do it, and without knowing how you’re going to do it. You just know that you’re going to do it. You’re going to respond in the way that you need to respond in that moment. Q: When you have the time and you are at home, what is your favorite thing to cook for your family?
A: Either chicken or steak. Roasted chicken is always my go-to thing. I love it because there are so many different flavors and textures in a roasted chicken, and there are so many different parts. It reminds me of so many wonderful times in my life. Or, just a really good steak on the grill. So, those are my go-to things. Simple food, simple salad, simple vegetables. The first time I roasted a chicken, I was watching a video you did with Anthony Bourdain. Oh, yeah? That’s cool. Roasted chicken is a pretty extraordinary thing. It crosses all cultural and economic boundaries. Everyone eats roasted chicken – you’re poor or you’re rich, you’re middle class, you eat roasted chicken. You’re French, you’re American, you’re Chinese, you eat roasted chicken.
6
LA PAPILLOTE
CENTER SPREAD
BY: Sera Park, AOS Baking and Pastry Ernest Hemingway, Pablo Picasso….In France, the greatest painters, writers, and other artists spent most of their time at a café with a cup of coffee and a piece of pastry. The good energy from coffee and pastry evoked the artists’ sensibilities. The café was their best friend, a treat for a bad mood or support in a good mood. Now, a café is a place where you are able to eat your meal or enjoy your choice of coffee with a pastry. If you translate café directly, it is the word coffee itself. If you go to any coffee place, you will see a selection of pastry. This means pastries are items with great synergy for coffee, they bring out each other’s charming points. What traditional French desserts make great harmony with the coffee at café time? “ I wish you wealth, Financier!” A financier is an adorable mini cake with a deep, nutty taste and a nice, delicate texture. If you enjoy it with coffee, a financier will bring the positive, earthy notes from coffee, and the coffee will make a financier more appealing; it brightens up the financier’s nutty, honeysweet aroma and nice texture. The mother form of a financier was visitandine in the Middle Ages of the Duchy of Lorraine, France. The Sisters
BY: Maddy Morrison, AOS Culinary Autumn in the Hudson Valley is always marked by the changing of the leaves and the ripening of the apples, and people making apple sauces and jams for the winter. There are plenty of apple orchards in the Hudson Valley, each coming with its own history. Grieg Farms: For the past sixty years, this farm has opened up their fields to the public, offering a wide variety of not only apples, but berries and pumpkins as well. This family owned farm is located in Red Hook, and also doubles as Gigi’s Market, a local farmers market that is open on Saturdays. This farmers’ market showcases any-
Coffee and Financiers
photo courtesy of www.lesmoulesmastrad.fr of the Convent of the Visitation in Nancy came up with an idea to replace the meat as a protein source with egg whites. The nuns made a small cake with egg whites, buerre noissette (burnt butter), flour, sugar, and ground almonds. This little cake became popular across Europe. However, after an event when the cake for the French queen, Maria de’ Medici, was poisoned with cyanide (a chemical similar smell to almond), the visitandine was prohibited unofficially among people for three centuries. In the nineteenth century, the little cake was reborn with a different name-financier. How it became the symbol of gold is an interesting coincidence. Around 1890, the
Apples For the Fall
thing from cheeses, gelato, to more apples. Fishkill Farms: This is a fun treat all throughout the year, as they have strawberry and cherry picking in the summer months, nectarines and peaches in the late summer through early autumn and pumpkins and apples during autumn. Through mid-September to mid-October, Fishkill Farms hosts Harvest Festival weekends, in which homemade food is made, donuts are sold, and cider is devoured. Prospect Hill Orchards: Located in Milton, New York, the Clarke family has been running this orchard for the past 200 years. They offer the New York favorites, but have also introduced Fuji and Gala apples to the Hudson Valley. The photo courtesy of Maddy Morrison Clarke family sells their produce, cider and cider
French pâtissier Lasne first identified financier as an edible item for financers. The reason was because his bakery was located near the Paris stock exchange. Lasne’s main customers were all financers, and they were usually busy and in a hurry. Lasne was thinking about how he could help them with his product. Then, he created a small, bite-sized cake so his customers were able to avoid making their fancy clothing dirty and could eat while they were heading to the work place. In addition, the shape of financier was a gold bar that symbolized the customers’ job. In modern days, people give the financiers as a present with the message, “I wish you wealth!”
photo courtesy of PAUL, Paris
photo courtesy of pinterest.com donuts in farmers’ market around Manhattan. Bad Seed: Although not a farm, Bad Seed is a much-needed stop after a day of apple picking. Bad Seed is run by two childhood friends, a sixth generation Wilklow farmer, whom harvest apples from the farm located near the cidery, and his childhood friend with the experience of fermenting foods. Bad Seed is a hand crafted hard cider, and offers tours around their cidery and farm. They are located just across the river in Highland and offer tastings of their truly unique product. Of these farms, all of them low spray their apples, and avoid using chemicals to enhance their products. They are proud local Hudson Valley orchards, and ‘tis the season for apple picking!
October 16, 2015
BY: Pamela Fernanda Rubios Piña
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Cosme, A Mexican Fine Dining Experience
The clock struck 9:30 PM and I knew it was time to leave. I put on my coat, grabbed my purse, and ran downstairs to grab a taxi. The reservation was made for 10 o’clock, and we had enough time to arrive, but I was not very convinced about going. Don’t get me wrong, I love eating in find dining restaurants, however, I find it hard to enjoy myself. Most of the time, the service is very overwhelming and the ambience tends to be very stiff, making my dinner uncomfortable. The taxi turned left on East 21Street and, on the right, there was a lit sign with a single word written on it: Cosme. From the outside, you could not see much, but, once you passed the crystal, you will be surprise by what you will find. The first thing that caught my attention when I entered was the use of wood. It was everywhere, from the tables to the shelves. All of the tables were naked, no tablecloths at all, just a small plant on each one. Another thing that astonished me was the staff. First of all, almost everyone was either Mexican or Latin, and they were all very young, perhaps in their twenties or thirties. I noticed that the servers had decided to get rid of the fancy dresses and suits and exchange them for business casual clothing. The minimalist decorations and the friendly staff created an intimate, comfortable, and cozy ambience. It was not overwhelming, and the restaurant ran smoothly. Cosme is the new project of Chef Enrique Olvera 99’, and, unlike
photos courtesy of Pamela Rubios Piña Pujol (the restaurant that put him in the culinary spotlights) that offers a tasting menu, Cosme offers sixteen different savory dishes to order individually. Throughout the menu, you can see a clear influence of Mexican cuisine, most evident in ingredients and techniques used. However, most of the ingredients are either grown in the restaurant or comes from the local Hudson Valley. After fifteen minutes of reading the menu, I decided to order burrata cheese with a pasilla mixe salsa and weeds. It was an interesting dish, and the combination of an Italian cheese with a traditional Mexican salsa was something I had never seen. However, I would have liked
more flavor and, even though the salsa was good, the combination was odd. My dad ordered a beef tongue carpaccio with lettuce, chicatana-coffe ant oil, and nopal. I have to say, I was really surprised with this particular dish. The tongue carpaccio was tender and the combination with the chicatanacoffe ant oil was good. My mom tried to go for something a little healthier and ordered a salad that had beetroot, charred corn salsa, farmer’s cheese, and crème fraiche. I am not a fan of beetroot, but the way it was cooked made it sweeter and the contrast between it and the crème fraiche was amazing. My brother, on the other hand, went for something in between and ordered cobia al pastor with a pineapple purée and cilantro. The cobia was so perfectly cooked that it melted in your mouth. Finally, we all shared the signature savory dish of Cosme, duck carnitas with onions, radishes, and salsa verde. They came with this perfectly round, handmade corn tortillas.The duck was amazing; it was crispy on the outside, but really flavorful and soft on the inside. We ended the meal with the signature sweet dish of Cosme, a husk meringue with corn mousse. The corn flavor was really light, but the meringue was well balanced and the dessert, as a whole, was good. Although some prices might have been a little bit high, it was totally worth dining at Cosme, and the duck carnitas and the handmade tortillas are a must.
Congratulations to the Winners of the Chili Cook-Off 2015!
photo credit: Cameron Cavida, AOS Culinary
LA PAPILLOTE
8
Food Policy Profiles: Unclogging the Problem
BY: Arturo Alvarez, BPS Applied Food Studies
Fats, oils and grease, known as FOG are fundamental ingredients what we all use regularly through our time in CIA. The CIA recycles the oil used in deep fryers and pan-frying into bio-diesel. However FOG is much more than frying oil in the kitchen, butter and chocolate used in bakeshops, salad dressing or the fat skimmed from soups and stocks are also included. If FOG is not managed properly it could have a tremendous negative impact on the environment. As you probably know, water and oil don’t get along; a single quart of oil could pollute up to 250,000 gallons of water. When FOG goes down the drain, it will cool down, solidify and clog the pipes, leading to sewerage backflows or breaking pipes. This is why local authorities set limits in the amount of FOG that can be found in the a sewerage system, and believe it or not the small film of oil left on your whisk and bowl after emulsifying a vinaigrette is enough to surpass such limits. The CIA spends over $100,000 managing FOG each year, by rimming out pipes weekly, pumping out grease and maintaining sewage and grease traps monthly. This figure does not include labor, and possible fine of up to $5000/day if the school failed to maintain the maximum allowance of FOG 100mg/L both the city of Poughkeepsie and the town of Poughkeepsie. Thankfully this has not happened so far, due to the hard work of the facilities and engineering crew at the CIA. It is imperative that all students learn about FOG, and how to properly deal with it, not only for the sake of the environment, but also the big economical cost associated. We all need to learn how to manage FOG because we are leaders in the
industry and many of us will go work, manage or build a food related business where FOG will be present. Your future business might be the one fined over 5,000 dollars each day. Even if not for the environmental consequence, you should at least worry about the money going towards this evident problem. A few simple practices that could help you reduce water pollution with FOG: • Do NOT dump leftover cooking oil in the sink. Every kitchen has a bucket or special metallic oil container to place your excess oil.
diagram courtesy of CIA Facilities department • Do NOT use hot water to melt any grease or fat so it goes down the drain. It will cool down and clog the miles of pipes further down. • Unusable animal fat should be placed in the blue bin, this includes the greasy liquids you skim from stocks, soups or sauces, etc. • Wipe down with paper towel any equip ment or container that was in contact with FOG before washing it in the sink. You could even re-use paper towels that you utilized for other purposes. Since you should be doing this BEFORE you wash it, this makes it easier to avoid using extra paper towels.
The Purpose of Holiday Marketing
BY: Rachel Zairan Zhou, AOS Culinary One afternoon in the middle of September, I stepped into Adam’s for usual grocery shopping. However, I was completely astonished by the store decoration of pumpkins, ghostly wall stickers, garlands and candles. I thought, “Wait a minute, what date is today?” I was wearing a sweater, but still craving for ice-cream because of the somewhat sultry weather. I checked my watch, telling me it was September 17th. What dates are Halloween and Thanksgiving? Are they not supposed to be on Oct. 31st and Nov. 26th? Why did the market start Halloween and Thanksgiving promotions more than a month ahead of time? There was an aversion aroused in my tummy; I felt so uncomfortable to be extracted from the summertime sunshine and forced by commercial marketing to accept the far-away autumn holiday season. (Do not get me wrong. I love Adam’s, and not just because they sell chicken feet.) For sure, holidays are important. They evoke emotional yet sweet impressions, they fortify cultural connection within communities, and they are the perfect instruments for educating purpose, so it is of great significance for marketing. However, that blatantly commercial promotion has distorted the overall
beauty of memorial celebration. Not only in Adam’s, but every other grocery store, pharmacy, or online shops, special offer signage are like the mobilization slogans persuading you to believe the warm weather outside is passed away. The only point has been underlined: It is now the fall festival season. Grab your purse and buy as much as you can. Even if one wants to get out of the crazy trend, it is as difficult as grasping a willow in the river. Alluring holiday advertisements are everywhere thanks to the Internet. Holidays are all year around—different ethnic groups celebrate a different assortment of holidays, resulting in that every day is a “celebration day” for a specific party. Nevertheless, late summer only reminds me of a pleasant picnic with cold sandwiches under the breeze, and autumn and winter are not just Halloween and Thanksgiving. They are seasons for autumn foliage and chill winds, for the flame of fireplaces, for the tantalizing waft of warm pies, for the puffs of heat from a jar of apple cider, for the rejoicing of family reunion, for the commemoration, and, of course, for the ubiquitous turkey and pumpkins. Celebrations are not just for feasts, grotesque decorations or another long-weekend holiday; all of above is no more than the hue of a painting. Color alone is meaningless. Cer-
tainly, they are part of the happiness, but probably, what is more important is the reason for celebration. For sure, one may argue that the origins of Halloween and Thanksgiving remain to be disputed, but for every individual, the memories that each season and memorable day bring is unique. The generous homecoming Thanksgiving for people outside of the States may be just an American holiday; autumn, however, surprisingly shares a same loving charisma. For me, autumn means the excitement of deconstructing a steamed hairy crab with my parents, the euphoria of sharing sweet potato soup in osmanthus syrup with my beloved grandma, and a traditional family ritual for commemorating ancestors. These connections never reached me when the weather is warm. I am not questioning the increasingly economical importance of marketing; after all, it is just the nature of another industry. However, for holidays and celebrations, reminders from promoters seem to be unwise. Dates exist so obviously, and people’s emotions cannot be delivered prematurely by manipulation. When the season is changing, when the foliage leaves are falling in the backyards, when the haze is dispersing in the air every morning, it would be known that this is the time.
October 16, 2015
9
CIA Helps Food Bank Teach How to Use Fresh Produce
Sudoku
BY: Jeff Levine, Staff Contributor Faculty, staff, and students led by Assistant Professor Bobby Perillo volunteered in a Chef Challenge Cook-off in late September in Kingston. They prepared several dishes using the fresh, local fruit and produce that was distributed by The Food Bank of the Hudson Valley to area residents in need. Attendees tasted the dishes and voted for their favorites. According to the Daily Freeman, “The cooking competition was a way for attendees to learn how to use the produce they were taking home…Having the chefs demonstrate the produce and items typically offered at food pantries, such as kidney beans and elbow macaroni, allows people to see the different ways they could bulk up their own dishes.”
The solution will be in the next issue.
BY: Matthew Stocker, AOS Culinary There is one feeling in the kitchen that never goes away, even when you have had a great day. This feeling can influence your quality of work, and even how others perceive you. This is the feeling of being dirty. We have all been there. An hour into class when you get red sauce on your jacket, or someone next to you is whisking a little too hard and splatters you with hollandaise. The Culinary Institute proudly shows off their students, expecting them to be clean and confident. The only problem is, sometimes, confidence goes hand and hand with how our jackets are kept. If you have hit the brick wall when it comes to cleaning, and you just cannot get that one stain off, hopefully, you will learn a few tricks of the trade here. Here is what the students say: Bleach, bleach and maybe a little more bleach. Before we came to the CIA, bleach worked on all of the day-today stains. After washing my jackets here, I have noticed that bleach will remove some of the lighter stains, but barely helps on the deeper stains. One tactic to keep in your head is that forms of pre-soaking, or even letting bleach sit on your on the stained spots for ten minutes before washing, help a lot. Pre-soaking is usually for twenty-four hours, having your coat in a container submerged in a bleach and water mixture. If we look at bleach on a molecular level, we understand that the bleach breaks the chemical bonds of the stain, which is why soaking is a leading choice for tough stains. Both pre-washing methods have seemed to be more
Easy Jacket Cleanup
effective than just putting bleach in the washer. Please note, that when you do use these methods, YOU STILL NEED TO add bleach to the washer for maximum results. The words we all hate, “I’m sorry, you’re just not my type.” This time, the type actually matters. Knowledge is power when it comes to removing a stain. Not all stains are the same, which means they cannot all be treated the same. Protein stains can be big trouble if you do not know what to do. Common thought tells us to wash all of our whites in hot water because they cannot bleed. For protein stains, hot water can cook the stain into the fibers of the jacket. Hot water denatures the protein, taking the water out of it, making it difficult to dilute. Most stain fighters have the enzyme to help fight proteins, so you can use the common bleach or other stain removers. Just remember to use cold or warm water instead of hot water. Protein stains, among other stains, are hard to get out once set in, so a bleach pen is good to have in your pocket to lighten the stain quickly before the stain sets. Regular maintenance is protocol to keep your jacket in tip-top shape. Avoid bleach if you do not have to use it. A good day in the kitchen means you will not have any bad stains, and the lesser stains can be removed with a simple product like Oxi-Clean® Bleach. However, these products will wear your jacket down, and, if you use too much, can leave holes in the jacket. Many chefs will give you the simple answer to getting stains out: just do not get stained. If you only have to heavily clean your jacket once every two weeks, opposed to using bleach every
photo courtesy of the Daily Freeman
other day, you will notice that your jacket will last longer and be more cooperative when stained. Being a student, I have my own ritual for taking out the worst of the worst stains. From grease splatters to red sauce, this works every time. I have Super Trump ™ from Ecolab®. It is used in dishwashers to clean kitchen equipment, and in my case, uniforms. I put a coffee mug of it in a five gallon bucket filled from halfway to three quarters full, depending on how concentrated I want the chemical. I soak my jacket in the mixture for twenty-four hours. After soaking, I put my jacket and the chemical water mixture in the washer with a little bleach and a Tide® pack. I have never had a problem with this method. This method is pricey because the chemical can go for $60 a gallon, but it is relative to how effective I find it. This is not to say that a mixture you can make for five dollars is not more effective, and I implore you to find the cheapest and most effective way to clean a jacket. Next time you clean your jacket, think of what kind of stain it is, and then what the best way to clean the stain is. If you decide to use your own mixture of chemicals, please remember to never mix ammonia and bleach, and to not get any chemicals on your skin. Be safe, and experiment your mixtures on other white clothing before you use a lot of it on a valuable chef’s jacket. I would love to know how you clean your jackets, along with any small tips you might have. Email me at matthew.s.stocker@cia.culinary.edu, and you might find your tip in the next cleaning article!
10
LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduation Speaker: Christine Assouad Sfeir
BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff contributor
Christine Assouad Sfeir is the chief executive officer of Treats Holding SAL and Meeting Point. Headquartered in Beruit, Lebanon, Treats Holding SAL is the parent company of restaurant concepts Semsom and Green Falafel, and Meeting Point holds the franchise for about 25+ Dunkin’ Donuts locations in Lebanon. Born and raised in Beirut, Ms. Sfeir launched Dunkin’ Donuts in Lebanon in 1998, after which the operation became a resounding success and received several awards. In addition, she has worked with Dunkin’ Donuts in many international markets, including Germany, Italy, Egypt, Syria, and Jordan. In 2008, Ms. Sfeir launched Semsom, a traditional Lebanese restaurant with a modern twist. Today, Semsom is spreading the Lebanese way of life with 40 outlets in places such as Lebanon, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, Oman, and New York City, with plans to open additional locations in the United States and other countries. Green Falafel, an eco-friendly falafel concept, was added to the family in 2014, and
has locations in Lebanon and Saudi Arabia. Recognized in the industry and beyond for her achievements, Ms. Sfeir has received numerous prestigious honors. In 2014, she was named a Young Global Leader by the World Economic Forum and was ranked #19 on the list of Most Powerful Arab Women by Forbes magazine, Middle East edition. In 2012, 2013, and 2014, Ms. Sfeir was honored as one of the 100 Most Powerful Arab Women by Arabian Business magazine, and in 2011, she was named Arabian Businesswoman of the Year at the Arabian Business Achievement Awards. Ms. Sfeir graduated with a bachelor’s degree in nutrition and dietetics from the American University of Beirut; a master’s degree in food science from McGill University in Montreal, Canada; and a master’s degree in marketing from the École Supérieure des Affaires in Beirut. She supports the mission and goals of The Culinary Institute of America as a member of the college’s Society of Fellows. photo courtesy of Leslie Jennings
AOS Graduating Class of October 16, 2015
Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Junxi Chen, Maruan Sampang, Hee Kyung Kim, Asher Charles Chong, Phillip Valkas Back Row: Peter Rallis, Christian Tejada, Jonathan Connor Bayless, Gerardo Gonzalez Huizar, Ty Marcantonio
Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Stephanie Molnar, Kori Hogan, Josh Guide, Santana Burriss, Arik Tennell, Philip DiFalco Back Row: Kifaya Ture, Emily Pinkhasov, Jerod Rodriguez, Jesse Rose, Alex Jursek, Durosola Crump, Geoffrey Rhoades, Timothy Erne
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Derek Stevenson, Dong Hyup Lee, Trevor Kahlbau, Carmen Walker, Aubrey Shoup, Chris Garbellano, Eric Soloy Back Row: Vearsna Roeum, Andy Sheen, Alexander Green, Hector Perez, Robert Schuett, Patrick Kealy, Justin Haynes
Baking & Pastry
Front Row: Maggie Warszycki, Eileen Shin, Dominique Giglio, Deana Harris, Pahola Vivar, Alejandra Rubio, Dawn Christman, Madeline Guzman Back Row: Janine Gaynor, Courtney Reese, Morgan Robinson, Yi Si (Crystal) Tan, Giuseppe Fiorentino, Dev Dhanda, Janelle Jirau, Lakham Bhonsle, Laurie Klewicki
October 16, 2015
Events
Sunday 11 am Steels Cross Country at Hudson Valley Sportsdome 1 pm Steels Soccer
October 18, 2015-November 7, 2015
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Monday
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Tuesday
6 pm Steels Volleyball
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Wednesday
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9:15 pm SGA Public Meeting
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Steels Soccer at Albany College of Pharmacy and Health Sciences 2 pm Steels Volleyba
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-Culinary Christian Fellowship- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -Culinary Notes- SRC, Multipurpose Room (East) -Veterans Association & Auxiliary- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -CHOP’T- SRC Pool Lounge -Bacchus Wine Society- Wine Spectator Classroom
Library Learning Conrad N. Hilton Commons: Library Monday-Thursday: 7:30am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Friday: 7:30am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Campus Store Video Center Hours: Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00am10:00pm 6:00pm Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm
4:30 pm CHOP’T 9:15 pm SGA Public Meeting
Thursday
9:15 pm SPICE
9:15 pm SPICE
9:15 pm SPICE
Club Meeting Locations
-Public SGA Meetings- SRC, Multipurpose Room -The Word Poetry Club- SRC Pool Lounge -SPICE- SRC Conference Room -Black Culinarian Society- SRC, Multipurpose Room (West) -Guild of Tea- Admissions EcoLab Theater -Korean Association- Wine Spectator Classroom
Hours of Operation
Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends) Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:30pm
Apple Pie Monday-Friday: 7:30am-5:00pm (when classes are in session)
The Egg Monday-Friday: 5:30am-11:00pm Saturday & Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
Student Recreation Center Monday-Thursday: 7:00amMidnight Friday: 7:00am-10:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-10:00pm Sunday: 9:00am-11:00pm
The UPS Store
Low Shipping Rates Get Your Shipments There, On Time, & Intact Moving/Packing Supplies & Boxes Domestic &International Shipping Local Pick-up Service Available Full Copy Services
Poughkeepsie Plaza (Near Marshall’s)
2600 South Road (Route 9) 845.454.3505
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Friday
Wicked Weekend Carnival
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Saturday
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11 am Steels Cross Country at SUNY Delhi 2 pm Steels Volleyball Wicked Weekend Dance/ Alliance Drag Show
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-Eta Sigma Delta- Admissions EcoLab Theater -La Papillote- SRC Conference Room -Club Con- Marriot Pavillion-Lower Level
Pool Hours Monday-Thursday: 10:00am1:00pm & 3:00pm-10:00pm Friday: 10:00am-1:00pm & 3:00pm-7:00pm Saturday & Sunday: Noon-7:00pm Resident Life Monday-Friday: 7:00am-5:00pm
Campus Safety Open 24 hours 7 Days a week Health Services Monday-Friday: 7:00am-8:45pm Career Services Monday-Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Drop in: 9:00am-1:00pm 2:00pm-4:00pm
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LA PAPILLOTE
In The Industry
Thinking About Chocolate: Mucho Museum
BY: Jose Lopez Ganem, AOS Baking and Pastry Three years ago, MUCHO Mundo Chocolate (Chocolate World) opened its gates to the general public. Under the direction of Ana Rita GarciaLascurain, MUCHO has grown into a first class indicative that holds a museum fully devoted to chocolate and several workshops related to the theobroma cacao treasure. As time has passed, MUCHO has become a cross point of many disciplines from gastronomy to art, holding the rightful title of Mexico’s first think tank for chocolate. MUCHO goes beyond the mere pleasure of flavor; it recognizes the intimate relationship between the ethnic roots of the Mexican nation and the importance of its current role in our people’s lives. There is no better way to experience the essence of MUCHO than sitting in its amazing café to try a chocolate tamale, enjoying the amusement and laughs from the young and old, or when someone demonstrates the tabling process in front of them. The best part is definitely taking home some of the delicacies that the culinary team prepares in the museum’s atelier, using both classic and pre-Colombian methods. “Everyone has to come to MUCHO,” GarciaLascurain said. Mexicans invented chocolate, and now MUCHO has created a way to share all of what Mexico is in chocolate. Q: How would you describe MUCHO Chocolate Museum? A: MUCHO is a common initiative of many Mexicans’ interested in the vast chocolate tradition of our country. Sometimes, we forget, here in Mexico or aboard, that chocolate is an invention from the elder people of Mexico, and that its diverse cultural representations has shaped and survived in different ethnic ways. At MUCHO, we have the mission to preserve this expressions, and to contribute to the contemporary trends in which chocolate is a main character, not only in gastronomy, but also art, literature, cinematography, among others. Q: What MUCHO’s current goal? AR: Our objectives are to keep ourselves update current and to keep content fresh. Our intention
is very clear; we don’t want to remain in thinking about the past, we want history to push us forward in discovering the expressive ways of today. Opportunities are always coming in to our hands because that’s the characteristic of the Mexican culture, and our team has been able to keep up with the rhythm. MUCHO is always offering something new to the first-time visitors as well to the people that know us. Q: Moving on to chocolate, what can you say is the main area of opportunity in the Mexi can chocolate industry? A: That’s a huge issue! The chocolate struggle has been around since the Spanish conquest, and this is also where we need to talk about our cacao, a staple that we share with many Mesoamerican countries. In my perspective, what we have to work on is the diffusion of the endemic types of cacao that our country produces as well as advocating for quality versus quantity, preferring less but great. Mexico, since we were under Spanish rule, has stopped being resilient. Not being able to supply our own cacao demand has joined the common problem of unfair distribution worldwide. If we can’t achieve, let’s say, an Origin Denomination, at least we should be able to raise awareness and knowledge of our cacao quality. Q: How MUCHO’s interdisciplinary perspective have contribute to its own work and the chocolate struggle you just mention? A: For MUCHO, it allows us to gather and display different intellectual perspectives that have a common ground, generating a rich debate among our visitors and participants. The outcome of this constant conversation will create new destinations and boundaries for the topic to go in the future. For the cacao situation, as we involve our public in this educational arena, the international spectators will also grow curious in what Mexico is doing, for example, our endemic cacao. Q: Could you name the main threat to Mexican cacao? A: It is very difficult to say. I wouldn’t dare to criticize anyone involved in the production or
Chocolate Legos at MUCHO Chocolate all photos courtesy of Jose Ganem harvesting of cacao; there are many things that should be put on the table with their respective specialists. So, what concerns to me is the diffusion of the cacao varieties among Mexicans and foreigners. I can tell you that there is little awareness of the properties and characteristics of the endemic varieties of our cacao and the artisanal techniques of chocolate. What I’m really worry about, something that we work to prevent every day, is not being able to find any Mexican cacao in any chocolate forum in the future. Q: Concerning gastronomy, what would be your perspective on what’s happening in Mexico? A: There’s a great deal for Mexican produce, especially chocolate, going on in the market. There are many master chocolatiers taking this ingredient to unexplored territory. Mexico is a place with a huge gastronomical diversity, and I believe that working for it is worth it, especially with the young people. We need to balance the perspectives between the European schools and techniques with the millenarian traditions that the Mexican people have been carrying with them. Working with classic techniques is something that I embrace as much as the traditional ways that the Mexican people have easier access to. In other words, we support knowing how to work with both. Cacao is not only destined to become a bar or a bonbon; there’s so much more. Q: What would be your message to the students of The Culinary Institute of America? A: Gastronomy is one of the most privileged ways to express cultures and traditions of our human civilization. Any cook has to be enthusiastic about culture, history, music, design, literature, and not just on being an expert on flavor. The passion and responsibility of a creative mind is to be a master in his or her craft by being aware of what’s happening around. The success factor of an artist is to understand the tangible side of art: textures, flavors, colors. A successful cook, therefore, is an artist.