Volume 36, No.15
Papillote
November 24, 2015
La
‘Waste-full’
By: Francesca Zani, AOS Culinary One of Americas most celebrated holidays is right around the corner. It is an opportunity to feast on food that isn’t normally served any other time of the year. It is a time to spend with family often lives many miles away and only stop by once a year to fulfill the obligatory holiday traditions. Thanksgiving is one of those times that you look forward to for weeks leading up and then dread for weeks following. From turkey, stuffing, and corn bread, to apple and pumpkin pie, the options are absolutely endless. We stuff our bellies while throwing back a beer or sipping a glass of wine to help the last bits go down before taking a bite of something else. Gathering around food with family and friends is tradition at holiday times, but we don’t always stop and think about the reason why we come together to eat. What is Thanksgiving? Thanksgiving is a time to give thanks, and we celebrate those thanks in the form of food. We are thankful that we have a meal in front of us and thankful for our family, friends, health, and security. However, it is interesting that Thanksgiving is one day out of the year we come together around mass amounts of food to be thankful for our blessings. We should always be thankful for everything that we have, is the food purely symbolic of the first Thanksgiving? Are we giving thanks via heaping portions of food simply to satisfy societal norms? Perhaps the way we celebrate Thanksgiving has been blown out of proportion. It is ironic that we happily continue to stuff our faces on full stomachs, while millions of people around the world are thankful for what little food they have. And to think, there are still leftovers at the end of the day that all go to waste by the end of the week. I have noticed how easy it is to get caught up in ourselves during the holiday season. We worry about grocery shopping, who to invite to dinner, cleaning the house, buying gifts, cooking and baking, doing the dishes, and finally resting
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“We Get What We Pay For...” “Food Policy & Campus Politics”
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By:Kevin J.Markey, Editor-in-Chief I remember when I was as young as four or five, my grandma wouldn’t let me go play until I had “cleaned” my plate. Leaving food on the plate was wasteful and, “there’s starving children in Africa,” she’d say. “Well, how are they going to eat my leftovers, grandma? They’re all the way in Africa!” I would respond thinking I was smart, and in turn would get the fly swatter. The connection I couldn’t make in my juvenile logical processes was that it isn’t necessarily about the waste coming from the plate, but instead the waste that is generated before the food even got there. There is a considerable amount of food that is grown or produced that goes to waste somewhere else in the cycle other than scraps or trimmings. This waste is avoidable. We as a society are not doing enough to ensure that it is managed properly. The heart of the matter lies in only a couple of areas, but the major one being overproduction. We grow more food than we can sell. Supply and demand people, the supply is too high for the demand, therefore the prices drop. Farmers would go bankrupt before you can say ‘high-fructose corn syrup’. U.S. farmers end up throwing away substantial quantities of food; 36% of grain crops grown are lost before market and 52% loss from fruit and vegetable production, as reported by the National Resource Defense Council. That’s right, more than half of the fruits and vegetables grown in America are wasted. Why is this happening? How can this be normal? No business that losses 52% of its product survives in the free market, not without government assistance at least. One of the most concerning issues with all of this isn’t just the food loss, but the loss of resources associated with food production. Agricultural production accounts for 80% Continued on pg.5
after it has all been said and done. Many of us don’t stop to think about the people in our surrounding communities that cannot afford to eat at Thanksgiving let alone any other day of the year. The Natural Resources Defense Council states that Americans throw out $282 million of Turkey alone each year. This adds to an annual food waste of $165 billion. Not to mention the CO2 gas emissions equating to 80,000 car trips across the country and 105 billion gallons of water that went into turkey production. According to the USDA Americans eat 46 million turkeys each year on Thanksgiving. With the average turkey weighing in at 16 pounds apiece that is roughly 736 million pounds. Three pounds of poultry, plus all the other food we devour. Whatever happened to eating five to six ounces Continued on pg.5
Papillote
En
CENTER SPREAD
P 6-7
“The End of Tipping?”
P 8-9
“Dietary Restrictions”
BACK PAGE
P 12
“Overfishing”
LA PAPILLOTE
2
Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
La
From the Editor’s Desk
November 24, 2015
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kevin J. Markey LAYOUT EDITOR Alexis Brown ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Yejin Yoon Matthew Stocker Sarah Lubitz Cameron Cavida Claudia Hansen Francesca Zani Ian Gilchrist Matthew Ivins
COMPACT
David Whalen Rachael Zhou Cindy Yuong Evan Chialastri Brian James Maddy Morrison Jehan Luth Hanna Krilov
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
Dear Readers, November 24, 2015 At this special time to give thanks, I find myself thankful most for the differences of everyone. The one commonality between every humanbeing on earth is that we are all different. Ironic isn’t it?) I am thankful for every conversation I have ever had. Each encounter has led me to be a more understanding person. The people in our lives, whether they have been there since the beginning or only for a brief moment, shape us into who are. In light of recent current events around the world I would be remiss not to discuss the topic of; acceptance. It is almost baffling to me to see such disdain in the world. We all should take a moment to look inward, self reflect on our morals and how we portray them on to others. While this is a publication about food, at a culinary school that does not remove the reality of the world in which we live. Violence is everywhere, it always has been and it will be very difficult for me to argue that it won’t be there someday in our lifetime. However, that won’t stop me from pursuing the path of peace and acceptance. It is only through words that we will attain this goal. Advanced communication is what separates our species, (to our knowledge) let’s talk to each other and more importantly listen to each other. For we are all thankful for something, and that isn’t irony, that’s human nature. Have a happy Thanksgiving, Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Kevin Markey, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Cindy Yuong Social Media Editor
Alexis Brown Layout Editor
Sarah Lubitz Copy Editor
Cameron Cavida Photographer
Claudia Hansen Sports Correspondent
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November 24, 2015
We Get What We Pay For & So Much More
BY: Matthew Stocker, AOS Culinary We’ve all heard the question, “I paid so much tuition for this?”. But as students, do we actually know what our money goes to? There is a common misconception between where tuition dollars are spent and what comes from donations through outside sources. The Egg for example, with all of its innovation and size, was fully donated. From the statue outside of a silver Egg to the chairs we eat lunch on, not one of our tuition dollars went into that. To clear up the confusion of tuition money, let’s start simple. According to the February 2015 mise en place, the alumni magazine, tuition pays for roughly 84% of the net costs of the school’s expenses and the remaining funds come from outside donations. Many of these expenses aren’t considered by most students. Take for instance the starting fundamentals class, think of how much product you have to go through to learn your techniques. While repetition is the key to success it doesn’t come without cost. The next step after cutting the food is cooking the food. Our tuition money, goes to building, renovating, and maintaining kitchens. Consider flat tops, grills, and ovens or specialized baking equipment and all of the upkeep associated with such the cost of tuition becomes much more imaginable. Once you account for the equipment in one kitchen that could well be the cost of one year at the CIA. Along with food cost, the pipes in the kitchen sinks and the grease traps above the stoves are on a regular maintenance schedule, costing “around $100,000 a year”, said Arturo Alvarez, another La Papillote writer who recently investigated the topic. Outside of equipment and food, faculty instruction is the number one expenditure of tuition dollars. The chefs and bakers here at the CIA are some of the best in the world and deserve to be paid as such. According to the numbers from the 2015 public financial statements, about 46% of tuition dollars go to instruction. The next highest area of cost was institutional support, in other words maintenance of school buildings. Coming in at about 27.5% of what our money goes to, the support of our institutional departments is plays an integral role in our education. These avenues of spending go to student services such as the learning library, where we have a virtually endless supply of help via some hired tutors and practicing supplies. Gardening supplies for the various gardens around campus have to be bought, and so do the supplies for any department on campus. And of course, in case of an emergency, campus safety has vehicles to reach you faster, which your tuition money went into supplying. A big complaint always goes to the meal plans, specifically the freshman blue point meal plan. Whether you believe it is a good plan or not, there is something to be said about the many combinations you can get at The Egg. Learning to manage your points effectively is a skill that will greatly benefit you your freshman year and beyond. However, if your only interest is in the innovative bean burgers and chips, then you might miss out on the many other items you paid for. Though you didn’t pay to eat food you aren’t used to, the investment you made is for the school to provide an experience that will be positive on your lifestyle. Next time the question is bought up about what your money is going to, ask yourself, “Is my money really paying for this, or was it generously donated?”
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Benefactor’s Ceremony’s
BY: Matthew Miller, AOS Culinary
Dole Packaged Foods On 10/27, The Culinary Institute of America hosted a dedication ceremony for the Dole Packaged Foods Lounge in the southwest corner of The Egg. Dole Packaged Foods is a wonderful supporter of the CIA, participating in CIA’s annual though leadership conferences among other great endeavors. Victor Gielesse, the CIA’s Vice President of Business Management, was there to dedicate the lounge to DPF. On behalf of DPF, Stuart McAllister, Vice President of Sales and Marketing, was there to make the toast. After the champagne and words of mutual admiration, I was allowed to ask Mr. McAllister a couple of questions. When asked why Dole Packaged Foods supports the CIA, McAllister expressed even more admiration towards the CIA. He emphasized that the CIA, “knows where the food world is going” and that it’s “not one step ahead but ten steps ahead”. The relationship between CIA and DPF is infinitely beneficial. With the support of DPF, the CIA has access to wonderful produce and products from all around the world; conversely, DPF has access to some of the most innovative minds and ideas in the food industry today. The Dole Packaged Food lounge in the Egg is a wonderful reverence to a company that has done so much with the CIA, and we will continue to work with them, “help[ing to] create better food”. Banfi Vintners The next day I found myself at the southeast corner of The Egg, next to the cardboard cutout of Daniel Boulud. Another wonderful company and benefactor to the CIA to be honored with a lounge dedication: The Banfi Vintners Foundation Lounge. Once again Chef Gielesse was there representing the CIA, and representing Banfi was their co-CEO, and granddaughter of the founder; Cristina Mariani-May. Banfi Vintners partnered with the CIA in order to strengthen the presence of wine excellence in culinary creation, and throughout the years they have surpassed their expectations. Among other things, Banfi sponsors a scholarship that allows CIA students to take a trip to Banfi’s own vineyards in Tuscany, Italy. Co-CEO Cristina Mariani-May is enthusiastic about her
family’s relationship with the CIA. “We want to align ourselves with the bright students [of the CIA], particularly in wine”. When asked what would be the best way to describe the relationship between Banfi and the CIA, MarianiMay responded, “food, wine, people, passion, and friendships”. Instead of champagne, Banfi brought one of their own wines, a Castello Banfi Brunello di Montalcino, 2010. During the toast Mariani-May expressed that it was an honor to work with the CIA, and presented a statue of a knight in armor, the same as the logo on the bottle of Brunello. As she accepted the honor, Mariani-May expressed how, as the CIA grows, Banfi will continue to grow along with them, and together they will continue to excel and evolve in the wine industry. Jones Dairy Farm The next week, there was one more dedication honoring a wonderful supporter of the CIA, and the area being dedicated should be familiar with most students: The Jones Dairy Farm Line. Phillip Jones, President of Jones Dairy Farm, and now a trustee of the CIA was present for the dedication, as was the CIA President, Dr. Tim Ryan. Jones Dairy Farm support for the CIA has been wonderfully beneficial over the years. Twice a year, Jones Dairy Farm offers a $15,000 scholarship, essentially paying for one semester of a student’s tuition. When asked why Jones Dairy Farm supports the CIA, President Jones stated, “it’s all about the students”. President Jones is a chef too, so his “passion for the food industry” is another driving force behind his family’s relationship with the CIA. He was humbly honored to have the line named after his family, and he hopes to continue, “supporting education” and maintain the relationship with the CIA as it “continues to evolve”. These benefactors, supporters, and partners of the CIA have had a wonderful influence as a place of education and community. It’s only right that we pay tribute to them with the dedications of the Dole Packaged Foods lounge, the Banfi Vintners Foundation lounge, and The Jones Dairy Farm Line. Whenever you get food at ‘The Line’, or lounge in one of the corners of The Egg, think of these fantastic forward thinking companies, and how they make the CIA a great place, by striving to continue to make it better.
President Tim Ryan, Philip Jones; President of Jones Dairy Farm, and onlookers toast to the opening of the ‘Teaching Kitchen.’ photo courtesty of: @CIACulinary on Twitter
LA PAPILLOTE
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Sweet Sap: Reducing Sugary Drinks at the CIA
BY: Christian McKenna, BPS Applied Food Studies Sugar is something that all humans are famil- ened beverages. All these drinks aren’t so sweet iar with. When we are born it is the only thing when it comes to consumer health. that we can taste. I feel that those who attend the A survey conducted by the CDC revealed Culinary Institute of America are even more fa- that over a three year period from 2003 -2006 miliar with sugar, which is a part of the problem, upwards of 15% of Americans aged 4 years and especially while one is working on their associ- older received 25% of their daily energy needs ate’s degree. Being exposed to and consuming so from added sugars. To be frank, when I think many different types of foods it is very easy for about one quarter of my day being fueled by students to forget how much sugar is in the foods added sugars, I feel kind of disgusted. What’s so that they are eating. I think that considering the bad about sugary drinks? Diets high in sugar have school encourages its students to have a healthy been shown to lead to health complications such lifestyle, they should take a more proactive position on how many sugary products are made available to the student body. All this sugar and I haven’t even gotten to the beverage side of the world’s premier culinary college. In my opinion, the school does not offer enough beverage options that are made without added sugar. It doesn’t help that the areas with the most foot traffic have the most access to beverages made with added sugars in the form of sucrose or high fructose corn syrup. For example, the beverage fountains in Farquharson photo courtesy of: dietdoctor.comWW hall contain mostly drinks that are high in added as obesity, type 2 diabetes, cardiovascular dissugar like pink lemonade, fruit punch, and from ease, cancer, and nervous system disorders. The concentrate juices and juice blends. Furthermore CIA is not known for offering the healthiest food the vending machines in dormitory buildings and to its students, and with the excess availability of around Roth hall are full of sodas as well as sports sugar sweetened beverages, some might wonder drinks, and energy drinks that are high in added if the school even cares about what it offers to its sugar with few substitutes that do not contain students. added sugar. Even the campus book store which At last, I arrive at my solution, which is fairis one of the first things students and guests are ly simple. Sell off the existing sugar sweetened drawn to when they enter Roth Hall stocks their beverages and when it comes time to put in a beverage coolers with a majority of sugar sweet- new order just order less of the drinks made with
added sugar and substitute them with diet, sugar free, or drinks with natural sugar only. This is easy considering the schools existing contract with Pepsi Co, it would be possible to change the products that are ordered every time an order is placed. The best thing about the contract with Pepsi Co. is that it wouldn’t cost the school any extra money to order different products made by the company. Swapping the juices in the dining halls, however, is not as easy or as cheap. The first thing that would need to happen would be to remove the juice fountains and replace them with beverage dispensers that have a spigot, similar to what is in use at the egg for their aguas frescas which can be purchased for around seventeen dollars per unit. The second thing that would need to happen is that dining services would have to order juices made without added sugar, which are sold primarily by name brand companies, which would come with an increase in cost. Switching from the current orange juice to a no sugar added juice produced by Sunkist would increase the cost of serving orange juice by about one third. Even though the price for juice would go up I think it is a cost that is justifiable, and feasible as it relates to the health of the students. Overall, the CIA needs to do a better job of providing better beverage options to its students. At the end of the day what the consumer puts in their mouth is their decision, so why not make the availability of a healthier option more prevalent. The school would be doing itself a favor by having a healthier and more productive staff and student body.
BY: Jehan Luth, BPS Culinary Science Hmm, Culinary Science. Let’s start with a quick introduction about myself and then I’ll explain more about the Culinary Science program, what I do and most importantly why I do it. My name is Jehan Luth, and I am currently in my 8th semester and am also an international student from India who has a rather unique background. A lot of students striving to come to the CIA set admirable post graduation goals in the field of cooking, i.e most want to become a phenomenal cook, maybe a chef or even owning their own place one day (nothing wrong with that!). Well for me, I am a computer engineer who loves food, I don’t want to cook, nether do I want to own a restaurant. What I actually want to do is to make food more accessible for as many people across the world as I can. Thus the importance of the Culinary Science program. Not every graduate of the Culinary Science program will have goals similar to mine, some of my friends want to become phenomenal cooks with the right scientific knowledge, nothing wrong with that! I strongly feel that this program is just like anything in life, it is all about what you make of the experience. For me, since day one I knew I wanted to learn the most efficient and smartest ways to produce a large quantity of food in as little time as possible. Now focusing on what the program is
it might seem obvious, trust me there a lot more going on). This information is pretty cool to have as after I have learned the science behind brining a turkey, I can simply adjust the formula of the brine to use it on another protein. The connections we make during the course of our program are almost as important as the education. From our chef, professors, visiting faculty, people we meet on field trips to CEO’s and corporate executive chefs of some food giants. Being the smallest bachelor degree class, i.e only 11 of us in my class, we pack a rather unique set of skills. More than that, believe it or not, a lot of employers are looking for people who can cook and know what is happening below the surface of the food. They might not be directly looking for “Culinary Science grads” but they are looking for multitalented individuals. To illustrate how fortunate we are to meet some great people, all CIA students receive On Food and Cooking by Harold McGee. Well if your lucky (depending on the time of year) you might get to meet Harold McGee in person. He might even be casually walking in our lab looking at our experiments and commenting on them. For a lot of culinarians, On Food and Cooking is like the culinary bible, meeting the author sets it apart. That is one of the numerous celebrities (in the food and science world of course) we see in our kitchen/lab every other week.
A Day In The Lab
actually about, I’ll talk about four things; science, connections, equipment and most importantly job prospects. I want to state that in no way I am trying to promote the program; my only objective is to educate others by sharing my experiences in culinary science. Like many of the students on campus, I am naturally very curious. Questions never go unanswered; I always have to find an answer. The most important thing in science is to be clear. If you don’t know the answer, then you don’t know, and there is no shame in that. If there are 499 grams of butter that is not 500. You get the idea. There have been times my professors and chefs don’t know the answer for a question, but what is stopping me from hitting the library to do some figurative digging. The best part about all of our classes is that they’re run by a chef and a scientist (or a scientist who is also a chef). This really broadens the prospective with which we learn. To give an example, while brining a turkey (yup, a thanksgiving example) the scientist will a give detailed explanation on how the sodium and chloride’s ionic bonds diffuse in water and soon unraveling the quaternary structure of protein on the turkeys skin resulting in salty water seeping into the tertiary structure of the protein mesh. The chef in the class will explain why a moist turkey is important and how it can be best used in a food production environment (even though
November 24, 2015
An Assembly for Progress
BY: Evan Chialastri, AOS Culinary The Student Government Association (SGA) has many duties. Among them is hosting a public forum dedicated to the support and progression of campus life through allocation of funds for clubs. As well as being a proper arena to seek support and have all those nagging questions about the CIA’s many rules and regulations answered. The SGA is comprised of an elected President and Vice President, two representatives each from AOS Baking and Pastry, AOS Culinary Arts, BPS students, and the appointed positions of Finance Manager, Public Relations Manager, and Secretary, as well as the Advisor. Every member of the SGA occupies pivotal roles in the assembly. Each job is equally important to the efficiency of the committee as a whole. Witnessing them work, and seeing how they field questions and requests leaves one thought in mind; they truly do care about campus life. The most prominent roles at the meeting on November 18th seemed to be the studentelected Representatives, the President and Vice President. President Caleb Kimble and Vice President Randle Boden hold order at the meetings, acting as the anchors for the entire group. Neither has voting power, they only advise the Representatives and student body alike. The Finance Manager tracks the allocation of money to clubs and events that we can all use to further our education here at the CIA. Along with these members, our AOS and BPS representatives play a critical role. They act as the voice of the students the SGA serves, each one coming from a different background with differing opinions and a wide variety of collected knowledge. The representatives are the heart of the SGA. They are the votes that clubs rely on to acquire money for events. They hold the power to truly make a ruling on topics such as the reinstatement of clubs. The SGA, as a whole, strives to accommodate all students and provide a neutral environment that seems to have both the students, as well as the schools best interest in mind. It was truly amazing to see how each member brought an important perspective to the table. Each member seems to be involved in the community in different areas. While one AOS Representative has the knowledge to field questions about a food bank donation by the Food Waste Committee, another ‘Rep’ can comment on a Slow Food Club question regarding the acquisition of baguettes. It is rather impressive how diverse the SGA is. News regarding changes to campus life established by the SGA; the cheese club (Fromage Friends) has been reinstated and acknowledged as a legitimate club again, so congratulations to all the lovers of moldy delicious dairy. For more news regarding the SGA and all their rulings feel free to stop by the next open forum; Dec 2nd in the MPR at the Student Commons.
ON CAMPUS
at 9:15pm. Or, pick up a copy of La Papillote because any big changes will most certainly be covered here.
By: Francesca Zani, AOS Culinary
...continued from cover
of protein in one meal? Depending on the household, a Thanksgiving meal could provide enough food to last for a weeks’ worth of meals. It is a shame knowing there are homes that throw away leftover food at the end of the Thanksgiving meal. It is unfortunate that people don’t care as much about food waste, knowing that there are starving people in the surrounding communities. “Dutchess Outreach was founded in Poughkeepsie to provide aid to struggling families in the area. The organization strives to meet the temporary, basic needs of the individual and families in the community, act as an advocate for need persons to meet their basic needs on a long-term basis and promote community awareness of social problems by generating support for improvement of the system’s response to human needs. The Beverly Closs Food Pantry, along with other programs such as Lunch Box, Act of Kindness, Children’s Clothes Closet and more have had a positive effect on community members.” https://hungrylikeafox. wordpress.com The Dutchess County Outreach soup kitchen claims to prepare and serve 400 meals on any given holiday. On a daily basis they serve 220 meals for lunch six days a week, and then 200 meals at dinner four times a week. As culinary students living in Dutchess County we can find ways to use potential food waste and control production factors. I think that as CIA students we should be most concerned about these issues since we are surrounded by food all the time.
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By:Kevin Markey, Editor-in-Chief
...continued from cover
of fresh water use worldwide. Water, the one resource that we all rely on, only 1% of the worlds water is fresh and accessible and we use 80% of it to grow food that we waste upwards of 40% of. Seems a little crazy if you ask me. Seems like we are in dire need of action. According to one factulty member; here at the CIA we accumulate approx. 2 million pounds of food waste annually. Because of this, movement is being made by some here to make a change for the better. The Student Government Association (SGA) has formed a ‘Food Waste Committee’ (FWC) to begin the process of lessen our environmental impact. The FWC is still in the midst of laying out their goals but as the chairman of the committee I can attest to the fact that there is a collaboration of people here that want to see changes made to better the school. There are four SGA members sitting in the FWC meetings, among a handful of upwards of a dozen students, as well as a faculty member, a chef, and a professor. The mission of the ‘Food Waste Committee’ (FWC) is to refocus The Culinary Institute of America’s (CIA) commitment to reducing food waste. The FWC will serve as a collaborative platform that supports a shared stakeholder perspective. Through the Student Government Association, the FWC seeks to formally engage the CIA community for the purpose of discussing and developing strategic initiatives that address the utilization, redistribution, and reduction of food waste. I think something mighty can be said about the power of a group of smart like-minded people. However, the larger and more diverse the group is, the more good that group can do. It isn’t always about going out and directly effecting change, though that is the best way to get it done. It can be difficult to gain support within groups like that, mainly because people are busy. Busy lives, and busy jobs, with just enough time to take care of the tasks that we deem important to ourselves, it can be challenging to see yourself going out and physically effecting change. Instead, discussion can be just as effective, meaningful and productive discussion that is. I am not however, suggesting that we all gather and gripe about our problems and the problems of the world, this isn’t the gazebo after all. No, I am referring to facilitated discussion that enables the free flow of ideas. Our imagination is the sharpest tool we have. By sharing it with each other in pursuit of a common goal we stand the best chance of formulating a true plan to solve any issue we want.
The Roman Catholic Chapel of Our Lady of the Way (La Madonna della Strada)
Holy Mass
Sundays 10:00AM & Noon Holy Days 12:00M. Chaplain: Father Marc Oliver
chaplainua@gmail.com Office: 845/331-0436 Cellular: 845/594-9111
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LA PAPILLOTE
CENTER SPREAD
Leftover Makeover
BY: Cindy Yuong, AOS Baking and Pastry As we all know, there are lots of leftovers from Thanksgiving dinner. But, not everyone wants a plain turkey and cranberry sandwich on Black Friday again. This year try to switch up a bit. That cranberry sauce that just never gets fully used up? Make it into something more, whether it is a cranberry cream cheese spread, salsa, smoothie, or salad dressing. Try this cranberry vinaigrette with some leftover leafy greens. And those leftover turkey, potato, and vegetable bits? Toss them into a pot pie, frittata or egg bake for a nice, savory breakfast. Have a more satisfying meal and be thankful for having leftovers you can utilize.
Egg-Friday Brunch
Cran-Orange Vinaigrette Ingredients:
1/2 cup cranberry sauce 1/4 cup orange juice 2 tbsp vinegar 2 tbsp oil 1 tsp Dijon mustard Sugar, salt & pepper to taste
Directions:
To make, place everything in a 16 oz. jar and shake vigorously until combined. (Can also be made in a blender or being whisked) Season to taste and serve with mixed greens, toasted nuts and dried fruit. Recipe easily doubles and can be stored in the fridge for a week.
Ingredients and Equipment:
8x8 inch baking dish (scale ingredients to your size baking dish if needed) 6 eggs ½ cup milk 1 tbsp butter Your leftovers! Cubed turkey, roasted veggies, stuffing, and other sides Your choice of other add-ins: herbs, shredded cheese, salt and pepper
Ingredients: Crust:
photo courtesy of theveglife.com
Leftover Mashed Potato Pancakes Ingredients:
2 cups mashed potato 1 large egg Salt, pepper, and garlic powder to taste Add-ins: chopped onion or chives, ¼ cup shredded cheese 1 tbsp butter
Directions:
To make, mix together mashed potato, beaten egg, spices and optional add-ins in a bowl. Melt the butter in a large pan over medium heat. Pour ¼ cup portions onto the pan, flattening slightly with a spatula. Brown the pancakes on both sides and serve with sour cream and extra chopped chives.
photo courtesy of thechiclife.com
Need something to bring to Thanksgiving dinner? Try a wonderful pumpkin swirled cheesecake. Make this quick bake the night before and you will have dessert prepared to bring to the table the next day. You can have these prepared individually as they are in the recipe – because who wants to share their dessert when they can have their own, am I right? Or modify the recipe to make a large one for the family (press the crust into a pie tin and bake it for a while longer). Whichever you choose, top it with some salted caramel sauce and whipped cream for the ultimate creative Thanksgiving dessert.
Pumpkin Cheesecake Minis
Directions:
To make, preheat oven to 350F. Beat together the eggs and milk. Add in leftovers to your liking, several cups of what you have will bake together wonderfully. Season with add-ins and pour into a baking dish greased with butter. Bake for about 30 minutes, until set in the center and enjoy!
photo courtesy of Cindy Yuong
1 cup Graham cracker crumbs (or cookie of choice) 3 T Butter, melted 1 T sugar
Filling:
2 8-oz packs cream cheese ¾ cup granulated sugar 1 teaspoon vanilla extract Pinch of salt 2 eggs 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2 cup pumpkin puree
Directions:
1. Preheat oven to 325F. Place 12 liners into the muffin tin. 2. Combine graham cracker crumbs with sugar and melted butter, mix. 3. Press a heaping tablespoon of crumb mixture into the liners to form a ¼ inch crust and bake for 7 minutes. 4. Cream the cream cheese with sugar, vanilla extract, and salt. 5. Add in the eggs one at a time and beat until well mixed. 6. Separate a little less than half the mixture into another bowl. Mix the spices and pumpkin puree into the smaller portion. 7. Scoop cream cheese mixture into the hardened crusts. Add some pumpkin mixture and swirl it together. 8. Bake in oven for 30-35 minutes until top is photo courtesy of allrecipes.com set. Cool in pan for 20 minutes, and chill at least 2 hours or overnight before enjoying.
November 24, 2015
7
The End of Tipping?
Simon King, right, the general manager of the Modern, discusses Danny Meyer’s new “hospitality included” policy (i.e., “no tipping”) with employees at a meeting held on 11/10. Photo Credit: Alex Welsh for The New York Times
BY: Ian Gilchrist, AOS Baking and Pastry Franklin D. Roosevelt once said: “No business which depends for existence on paying less than living wages to its workers has any right to continue in this country.” But, for the vast majority of the food service industry, many businesses can only afford to pay their employees bare minimum wages. Across the country major cities are pushing to raise the minimum wage of employees to account for inflation in order to provide a living wage. The delightful front-of-house staff that brings the whole restaurant experience together is critical for a functioning establishment. FOH staff gracefully serve bottle after bottle of wine, balance trays of food, and handle a myriad of questions from customers. We have all had our share of handling great customers and awful ones. But, for all the work that front-of-house employees performs, ultimately tipping is never guaranteed, nor is it equal in pay. Furthermore, it undercuts the work of food preparers in the kitchen. Tipping in the United States was once viewed as a practice that ran contrary to views of an egalitarian democracy. It was not until Prohibition in 1919 that tipping was introduced to substitute for decreased attendance in hotels and fine dining establishments, in turn giving the practice a foothold. Tipping is generally only practiced in North America. Elsewhere, servers are paid a living wage and, while tips are not required, they are accepted if the guest insists. But rarely is there a cultural mandate to do so. In the 19th century, it was considered bribery for services, but restaurateurs leapt on the opportunity to make employee pay the responsibility of the customer. Michael Lynn of Cornell University’s School of Hotel Administration wrote extensively on the United States tipping system in Tipping in Restaurants and Around the Globe: An Interdisciplinary Review. His study found that serv-
ers earn more if customers learn their name, or touch them on the arm. But, more importantly he discovered that quality of service does not equate to higher pay, and furthermore there is no evidence that tips incentivize wait staff. In many cases, Lynn writes, “tips sometimes represent one-hundred percent of waiters and waitresses take home pay, because tax withholding eats up all of their hourly wages.” On average, a server in the United States is paid $2.13/hr., or “server’s wages”, which is immediately consumed by a host of local and federal taxes, leaving the server to survive on just their tips. Amanda Cohen, owner of Dirty Candy, has parted ways with tipping, and has vocally argued that restaurants continue to use “server’s wages” to keep prices artificially low. The practice of tipping in the restaurant industry has produced an unfair wage system, where people must essentially act to make a living. They do not have a steady income; the restaurant’s traffic might falter for one day, and roar the next. For wait staff, their entire life is dependent upon how much a diner values them. FOH, no matter how glamorously we dress it at the Culinary Institute, is ultimately a career in paid servitude. Conversely, if the diner enjoys their experience, they may tip generously as a reward for providing entertainment, food, and drink. It amounts to social stratification between the employee and guest. If you receive bad service, you feel entitled to punish the server, and if service is good, they are rewarded with a meager tip, landing payment in the hands of the guest and not the restaurant. However, at the world’s finest restaurants some servers are reported to take home a six-figure annual income. Three years ago at Marcel’s, a group famously left a $32,000 check and a $10,000 tip for the waiter. This is an extremely rare case, but it highlights the pay advantage that servers have over cooks. For fewer hours, a talented server could bring in far more money in a day than most of the kitchen staff. The Department of
Labor claims that on average, a server will earn three times as much as a cook, and potentially double that of an executive chef. This is exactly the kind of situation that restaurateurs are hoping to eliminate completely by leveling off the earning potential for all staff members. Recently, a few high profile restaurants have eliminated tipping opting to instead raise the hourly wages of employees and increase the costs on their menus. More commonly however, restaurants are adding an automatic 20% or higher, gratuity charge. Danny Meyer, Executive Chef of the Union Square Hospitality Group, recently chose to eliminate tipping and ratcheted menu prices by at least 15% on items to boost hourly wages for employees. This week in fact, Joe’s Crab Shack of the Ignite Restaurant Group phased out tipping completely, raising server wages to $14/hr. According to CEO Raymond Blanchette, traditional tipping methods in the United States are “antiquated” and create a highly competitive, unfriendly work environment. To make up for the tips, Ignite has announced that they are raising menu prices. In nearly every other profession you know how much you will be paid the moment you accept the job and walk in the front door. Only waiting tables, is your future uncertain. Your pay should not be determined by the appetite of the guest, but by the work you perform. The service industry is rife with income inequality. As a student at The Culinary Institute of America, I would love to see the industry modernize by stepping out of the 1940’s and embracing a more wholesome and equal model. I truly believe that if restaurants cannot afford to pay their employees a livable wage, they should not be in business. I for one welcome the higher menu prices, the gratuity charges, and a higher minimum wage. If you would like to chime in with your thoughts, shoot me an email at ian.gilchrist@cia.culinary.edu.
LA PAPILLOTE
8
Advice from CIA Chefs BY: Sarah Lubitz, AOS Culinary
“Advice from CIA Chefs” is continued from the November 6, 2015 issue of La Papillote.
Chef Reilly
What made you decide to work at CIA? I was a student here, and I was really influenced and impressed by how this is a mecca for food. There’s no other place in the world like it. What is the most important thing you have learned that you can pass onto photos courtesy of ciachef.edu students? Be persistent, be courageous. I think those two together will make up for anything. If you make a mistake, you can always come back the next day and be better at it. Don’t quit, don’t give up. What is the best advice for dealing with the stress that comes with the industry? Make sure that you have a hobby, make sure that they realize that they have the ability to exercise as human beings. You need to get out a couple times a week and work out a little bit. Those things are important to have to add balance to your life. When you have the time, what is your favorite meal to cook for your family? I would say choucroute– it’s a sauerkraut dish with braised, smoked meats, potatoes, and vegetables. It’s a one-pot meal.
Chef “Freddy B”
What made you decide to work at CIA? At forty years old in 1997, I taught a couple of private cooking lesson in Greenwich, Connecticut and enjoyed them and the students as well. The school (CIA) sent out information on chef tests here at the school, so I decided to come to see if I would pass. The rest is history! What is the most important thing you have learned that you can pass onto students? Performance = reality. We have to perform. That’s the only gauge to achieve credibility. What is the best advice for dealing with the stress that comes with the industry? Drink lots of coffee! (Just kidding!) Remember, it’s one day at a time. Sometimes, it’s one minute at a time. Be serious, but have fun! When you have the time, what is your favorite meal to cook for your family? Stir-fry beef marinated with soy, sugar, and scallions with king oyster mushrooms!
Dietary Restrictions
BY: Maddy Morrison, AOS Culinary “Allergy symptoms depend on the substance involved and can involve the airways, sinuses and nasal passages, skin, and digestive system. Allergic reactions can range from mild to severe. In some severe cases, allergies can trigger a life-threatening reaction known as anaphylaxis.”(Mayo Clinic) Antibodies release histamine, creating an allergic reaction to the toxic substance. This substance is known as an allergen and it can be harmful to anyone who has an allergic reaction. Many students on campus are allergic to specific ingredients such as MSG, tree nuts, eggs, clams, and other various items. Chef Katherine Polenz, author of Cooking for Special Diets, and one of the chefs of Cuisines of Americas here at the CIA wrote, “that the top ten food allergies in the western world are; peanuts, tree nuts, eggs, dairy products, shellfish, fish, wheat, soy, tomatoes, and chocolate. Though a customer exasperates many of us on the line with allergies in the restaurant, because allergens put the pressure of liability onto the cooks. The reality is; for those living with allergies a day-to-day struggle to avoid potentially hazardous foods. I spoke with a student who has unique allergies that cannot be easily pin pointed. She is dangerously allergic to apples, carrots, celery, tree nuts, melons, cucumbers, peaches, and sesame. Even a small amount of cross contamination or the scent in the air, can be nauseating and could harm her significantly. During her time here at the CIA as an AOS student, it was challenging for her to determine how she was going to eat her meals, or whether she would survive each day. Many chefs did not want to risk her eating anything, in case a student cross-contaminated an item. I sat down and spoke with Chef Polenz and she said, “one needs to know when they cannot sell to a customer, for one cannot promise something they are unsure of”. In turn this student was turned away from nearly every kitchen and had few options during her AOS program. It was common that she was limited to having some type of pasta option, or lettuce with olive oil drizzled on top. Many complain about the limited cycle of menus, but having the same two options every day for nearly two years, can be exhausting and frustrating. She could not even enjoy the bread in Farquharson Hall, due to the possibility of sesame. So if she missed a meal due to class getting out late, then she often times wound not bother eating from Roth Hall. Now enrolled in the BPS program, she has more options, ranging from 6-8 different choices, but it is still extremely limiting, as it is difficult to accommodate for such a unique dietary restriction. When informing others about her allergies many people are astonished by the complexity of her situation. Life with food allergies is difficult, as many do not bother eating at restaurants. Some customers have a specific restaurant that they might prefer, because they know exactly what will be on their plate. Preparing your own food every night to avoid cross contamination can be exhausting. Dietary restrictions are a daily struggle, but as culinary professionals understanding them is necessity. Restricted diets also present an opportunity. We are the future of the hospitality industry, and we should embrace these diets, and acquire knowledge to accommodate for our guests. Once we can accomplish this, people will know to come to our businesses, and we will have the pleasure of feeding them. An entire customer base could be waiting for the right person, because they can accommodate the most complicated of diets.
Progressive Caloric Change
BY: Brian James, Applied Food Studies At The Culinary Institute of America many students struggle to maintain a healthy weight. As the world’s premier culinary college, we can do more to promote better eating habits. The policy I propose to lessen the problem has the potential to empower students’ decision-making in terms of caloric intake. This policy is not based on taking magic pills that help you lose an insane amount of weight overnight. This policy is not a quick fix to a problem that likely took years to develop; instead this policy is based on making small changes to one’s caloric intake. This policy will mandate all production kitchens, restaurants, and The Egg post calorie content for every dish on the menu. The policy can help students reach a healthy weight, as well as living overall healthier lives. At the CIA our food is world class, diverse, and flavorful. Our education is based on classic French technique, a technique that often uses large amounts of butter and cream as a general base for cooking. By using these types of ingredients, calories are more likely to be hidden deep within the flavor of the food. If total daily caloric intake exceeds total daily caloric output the chances of weight gain and potential health problems increase. Some of the most commonly related health problems associated with excessive weight gain are; type 2 diabetes, heart disease, high blood pressure, nonalcoholic fatty liver disease, osteoarthritis, cancer, and stroke. Reducing the amount of calories that one is consuming can lower the risk of these diseases. It is fair to say that by consuming fewer calories, one’s weight will began decreasing to that of a healthier weight. The policy I propose would require calorie information posted on menus outside of the production kitchen and the restaurants open to the public will have to post calorie content on the menus. The Egg will also be required to place calorie content next to the items in the ordering terminal. The ‘Innovation Station’ will have to post calorie information on a chalkboard for everyone to see. Although, posting calorie information can lead to consumers becoming more aware of their consumption, it doesn’t guarantee that everyone will change their behavior. Nobody’s freedom of choice is affected by my proposal. The CIA already has the technology on some computers on campus to post calorie content. ESHA is a software development company that has software called ‘Food Processor’. ‘Food Processor’ is a nutrition labeling software that allows students as well as chefs to input a recipe into a program that then provides the recipes calorie content. If we have access to the ‘Food Processor’ software, why not utilize it to the fullest of its ability? By using the ‘Food Processor’ software students will benefit educationally as well as health-wise. This policy does not tell people what to eat, but has the ability to influence their decision-making for the better. Posting calorie content enables students and faculty alike to make healthier decisions and eventually lead a longer and healthier life.
November 24, 2015
9
Giving-Thanks
The solution will be in the next issue.
Last Block’s Puzzle Solution
cartoon courtesy of thedailyscoff.com
10
LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
Kevin Boehm, Co-Founder of Boka Restaurant Group
BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor
After opening 17 successful restaurants over two decades, James Beard Award-nominated restaurateur Kevin Boehm has become one of the nation’s most successful owner/operators. Mr. Boehm and partner Rob Katz have not only built a successful restaurant group, they have also established a restaurant culture built on great chefs, inspired hospitality, and amazing design. Growing up in Springfield, IL, Kevin knew at a young age that he was destined to be in the restaurant business. After dropping out of the University of Illinois, he saved enough money as a server to open his first restaurant, the quaint Lazy Daze Café, in Seaside, FL in 1992. He followed that up with the Indigo Wine Bar in Blue Mountain Beach, FL; Indigo Restaurant in Springfield; and Six Degrees in Nashville, TN, gaining his education opening and selling restaurants all before the age of 30. In 2002, he partnered with Rob Katz to establish Boka Restaurant Group (BRG). Together, they would open 13 restaurants—Boka, Landmark, Perennial, Girl & the Goat, GT Fish & Oyster, Perennial Virant, Balena, Elaine’s Coffee Call, The J. Parker, Little Goat Bread, Little Goat Diner, Momotaro, and Swift and Sons—in under 13 years, and establish BRG as one of the great chef-driven groups in the country. In late 2015/early 2016, BRG is opening two more restaurants: Duck Duck Goat and GT Prime. Boka Restaurant Group’s many accolades include three stars from the Chicago Tribune for Boka, Perenphoto courtesy of Leslie Jennings nial, Girl & the Goat, GT Fish & Oyster, Perennial Virant, Balena, and Momotaro, and one Michelin star for
Boka from 2011–2015. In addition, Girl & the Goat was named Restaurant of the Year by the Chicago Tribune, Metromix, and Eater, and the same honor was bestowed upon GT Fish by the Chicago Tribune in 2011. Girl & the Goat also earned a James Beard nomination for Best New Restaurant in 2011. In 2015, Momotaro was named Restaurant of the Year by both Chicago magazine and Chicago Social. That same year, BRG won four awards at the 18th annual Jean Banchet Awards for Culinary Excellence, including Restaurant of the Year for Boka and Chef of the Year for Boka Chef Lee Wolen. The group was previously named one of the RH25 in Restaurant Hospitality. Mr. Boehm and Mr. Katz were themselves honored as Restaurateurs of the Year by Time Out Chicago in 2010 and the Chicago Tribune in 2011. They were also named Empire Builders of the Year by the national edition of Eater in 2011 and were James Beard semi-finalists for Best Restaurateur in 2015. Kevin Boehm has been a featured speaker at the National Restaurant Show and the Multi-Unit Foodservice Operators (MUFSO) Conference, as well as the keynote speaker at the Asheville Independent Restaurant Show. He is an occasional columnist for the Chicago SunTimes Splash, and was named one of the “40 Under 40” by Crain’s Chicago Business in 2010. Mr. Boehm coproduces the Gold Coast Film Festival and sat on the Board of Trustees for The Hope Institute for seven years. He currently serves on the Board of Directors of Easter Seals.
AOS Graduating Class of November 24, 2014
Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: David Canady, Amanda Franklin, Kristin Hall, Betsy Ruch, Anthony Ladik, Ethan Saeedian Back Row: Grace Chong, Luke Daniel, Justin Taylor, Luke Doerning, Christopher Yuhas, Said Medina, Gregory Lewicki
Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Alexandra Lynch, Samantha Cherrier, D’Jounika Michel, Kaitlyn Mogu, Suji Seo, Jiyun Yun Back Row: Mansoo Chung, Aaron Stevens, Marcus Prioste, Georges Gruche, H. Julian Hill II, Seongwon Jun, Adam Baker
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Amanda Pastrana, Michael Prisciandaro, Josh Truitt, Brian Bock, Haley Willard Back Row: Saumil Patel, Junho Na, Jacob Esagui, Michael Beinert, Raymond Tarantino, Jacob Elgart
Baking & Pastry
Front Row: Mary Cacciatore, Sage Danner, Mandy Firth, Trisha Lowe, Victoria Li, Emily Ventura, Gillian Mann Back Row: Aimee Ramirez, Debbie Ronco, Megan Henne, Kyungsun Son, Felipe Notare, Alyssa Cruz, Sarah Skorpinski, Anya Kuzik
November 24, 2015
Sports
11
Steels Basketball Begin Season Undefeated; Featured NY Times
BY: Claudia Hansen, AOS Baking & Pastry With four years experience coaching at the Culinary Institute of America, Coach Tim McEnroe has been successful. The CIA Steels now have a 3-0 record with wins over Webb Institute, New England Baptist and Word of Life Bible. However, the success does not stop there. RJ Yoakum, of Rancho Santa Margarita CA, was named HVIAC player of the week on November 10th, 2015. The team is powering through a three game winning streak to start the season off. Reassuring words from captain Fred Moore, said “The team will do its best to take the trophy home, we are working hard in practice which shows on the court.” Since the season can sway either way, McEnroe said, “We will try to get better every week, we want to go into games as the strongest team by increasing the ability to work together.” Coach, where did you go to college? I graduated from SUNY Brockport. What is your background in coaching, besides coaching at the CIA? I have a long history of coaching, I have been coaching for around 35 years. I began my coaching career at the Webutuck High School Varsity Team from 1981-1983, then I went back from 20112012. When I left Webutuck High School, I went to Millbrook High School from 19871995, and then I went to Millbrook School from 2000-2006. After all of those moves, I went back to Millbrook High School from 2006-2009. What were the accomplishments that you achieved during those years? I was named Dutchess County and New York State Section 1 Coach of the Year in 1991 and was awarded in 2005 New England Prep Team Sportsmanship Award. As a result of these accomplishments, I received a job as an assistant coach at Mt. Saint Mary’s College in 1998, and then I took over as head coach. How did you hear about coaching at the CIA? I coached in the Hudson Valley Area for over
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Webb State takes possesion of the ball upon tip-off of the CIA Steels most recent game, in which the Steels prevaled 62-41 photo courtesy of: NYTimes.com
35 years, I was coaching AAU at the time I became aware of this coaching job opportunity, I had to take it. How do you predict what your season will look like? It is hard to predict where we will be, we have to be flexible. We are losing two players in December, however we are gaining seven players. What is your opinion of the core players on the team? First, I believe all the players on the team are beneficial, however I do believe the core players are RJ Yoakum, Fred Moore and Anthony Russo. RJ is a fantastic ball handler, Fred has three years of experience, great captain and teammate, and Anthony who plays fabulous defense, has great knowledge of the game and passion. What do you think about your competition and how your team is going to handle it? I believe we have a good competition specially versing, we know it will be a good game. The Steels go hard and know they have to be competitive every game. They play hard every day with
Hours of Operation Mailroom Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:00pm Saturday: 9:00am-1:00pm (closed holiday weekends) Copy Center Monday-Friday: 8:00am5:30pm Apple Pie Monday-Friday: 7:30am-5:00pm (when classes are in session)
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great passion while playing together. What are the main points that you like to influence to your players? I say, being a good teammate on the court will tell you how good of a teammate you are in the business. What makes the CIA basketball team different from the surrounding college teams? The boys know that their profession is in culinary, not one player expects to go to the NBA here. The atmosphere is neat and interesting, they come here to play and they know it might be their last game, it’s rewarding. Who are your graduating seniors and how will the upcoming freshmen make up for them leaving? The graduating seniors are Ryan Swenson, Freemount MI, Adam LaRose, Stuarts Draft VA, Anthony Russo, Holmdel NJ, and Yusake Kanaumi, Tokyo Japan. All of those players will be leaving us in December, but the team does have seven freshmen, who have a lot of potential and knowledge with room to grow.”
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LA PAPILLOTE
November 24, 2015
Sustainability
A Restrained Food System
By: Rachel Zairan ZHOU, AOS Culinary We all love grocery shopping; just the sight of piles of fresh produce makes every cook feel exhilarated. Yet, however fresh the vegetables and fruits are, I can sense that something is missing. Whether in local grocery stores or weekend farmer’s markets, it is quite difficult—or, even impossible—to buy freshly-butchered animal products. I understand it is because of the sanitary concerns, however, the joy of watching the butchering show, taking the whole carcass home and making a magical dish, depending on the mood, is also purged. All you can get in the supermarkets is pre-packaged “cuts” of animals; skin-on chicken breasts, deboned chicken legs, cubed beef shank meat, etc. They are convenient, but also trap customers into choosing and cooking emotionally. One
member clearly how we learned to fillet each fish, separating the “non-oily” bones (including the head) into a bus-tub and dumping the “oily-bones” into the trash. For sure, classic continental cookery is the bible of culinary education, and the boneless fish fillet is undoubtedly superior in presentation. However, it may be more delightful to be introduced and exposed to the versatility of processing and cooking animal products. Fish head stew can be a comfort dish for a whole family in the winter, braised tail may nourish grandma’s daily diet, and salmon bones may be the perfect base for fish miso soup. It is no surprise that pre-cut or packaged food creates more waste than buying whole fish and trimming them at home. They’re packaged and printed sell-by-dates, which may lead to precautionary discards whether they are spoiled or not. Also, trimmed pro-
to accept and explore more species. Fortunately, there are some associations dedicating themselves to spreading the frugal words. Chef Collaborative, for instance, epitomes what it means to promote local and sustainable food systems, an idea that is applied at the involved restaurants. They emphasize delicious, local, seasonal, and whole or minimally processed ingredients. The Kitchen, in Chicago, one of the participants of “Trash Fish Dinners” program, uses 80-90% local produce. Local white fish, blue fish, or dogfish can be found on their menu, and Chef Johnny Anderes changes the menu seasonally according to the local purveyors. Chef Anderes told me that he feels an urgency to live a sustainable life, and limiting food waste is a good starting point. He tried to provide a new angle of choosing food—especially fish—by introducing more uncommon in-
may never have the chance to experience changing the cooking method just based on his or her first sight of a chicken. A lovely bird that looks so cute could perhaps be steamed rather than breaking it into pieces and deep-frying it. I always wonder where the remaining parts go—giblets, bird feet or fresh pork trotters—which are all edible and delicious in certain exotic cuisines. It seems even worse when it comes to fish and seafood. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization, seafood ranks second on production losses and tops on customer losses. Reasons as to why this may be vary, yet I would dare to assume that maybe the way we process and eat fish would deteriorate the already fragile fishing industry. I re-
duce has negative environmental impacts due to it using more packaging. Moreover, the shrinkage of certain species may also be a result of high demand. Apart from the deprival, the term of “trash fish” also seems arbitrary. It limits people’s choice devalues the majority of fish in the eco-system, and kills the potential market. Those so-called “trash fish” might be applied in different cuisines, but, unfortunately, North America and Oceania rank first per capita in food losses and waste. I don’t intend to judge American dietary choices, yet, the top three most popular species; shrimp, canned tuna and salmon still surprise me a little bit. As prospective leaders in the food industry, we should challenge ourselves to learn more and, if possible, try to educate people
gredients to the menu. Unsurprisingly, those items are quite popular, and customers are more open to new dishes since they have already had a pleasant menu adventure in the restaurant. About forty percent of food in the US is wasted, and that is a stunning figure. However, chefs can use their techniques to make the most of each ingredient, educating people to accept exotic spices and novel cooking methods. What is dangerous may not be the situation, but the attitude that people do not dare to try and change even just slightly. Special thanks to Chef Viverito who provided me with essential knowledge on this topic.