July 26, 2017 Issue by La Papillote

July 26, 2017

Volume 38, No. 11

Papillote

10 Takeaways From Menu’s of Change Conference BY: Mike Feist, BBA Food Business Management

corporate chefs, researchers, and university professors to come together to share and discuss how we can change food to improve people’s diets and decrease our environmental damage. Although many topics were discussed, there were ten clear takeaways.

Sonic makes a presentation at Menus of Change conference. photo courtesy: Dennis O’Clair

The Culinary Institute of America’s fifth Menus of Change Conference wrapped up on June 22, concluding a three-day extravaganza of talks by brilliant food professionals. It included whole-audience presentations

and panels, smaller breakout sessions, as well as sit-down lunches, reception breaks with vendor booths, action-station meals and tastings, cocktail receptions, coffee, and breakfast breaks. The CIA organized this Menus of Change

conference in collaboration with the Harvard T. H. Chan School of Public Health, and drew in 400 people. The Menus of Change conference is a rare and valuable opportunity for restaurateurs,

1. Sodium, sugar, red meat, and dairy in excess are the biggest problems in health. Too much salt, sugar, red meat, and dairy intake is the biggest health problem in our country. We should reduce red meat consumption significantly, replacing it with nuts, which have healthy fats, vitamins, minerals, and fiber. Walter Willet, professor of nutrition and medicine at Harvard, insisted on focusing far less on clean labels and instead on these dangerous foods in excess. He recommends thinking of red meat like many other countries do: a rare and indulgent treat. 2. Food fraud is a much larger

issue than most people realize. Food fraud is defined as secretly altering or mislabeling food to raise profits. It is a much larger issue than most people realize. According to presenter Dr. Russell Walker, the profit from food fraud in the US is about $50 million, larger than that of illicit arms trade. 3. Corporate cooking is not to be looked down upon. Corporate chefs should not be seen in a lower light. CIA grad Dan Coudreaut explains that chefs despise fast food for tasting bad and being unhealthy, but if good chefs aren’t willing to work in the industry to fix that, nothing will ever change. Coudreaut became Executive Chef and Vice President of McDonald’s in 2004. There he and a team including PhD professionals have overhauled the menu to include a wide variety of healthy options,

Cont’d on Pg 4

A Visit To Stone Barns BY: Alison Sprong, AOS Culinary

About an hour south of The Culinary Institute of America, is the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture. This piece of farmland belonged to the Rockefeller family and in the 1900s they started cultivating the land to be a working farm. In 2003, in memory of Peggy Rockefeller, the family donated the farm to the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture. Later that year, the Stone Barn founder’s invited Dan Barber, the chef and owner of Blue Hill, as well as his two business partners Lauren and David Barber invited the restaurant to be their onsite restaurant partner. In April of 2004, the restaurant opened their doors to the diners of the Hudson Valley. Blue Hill at Stone Barns has so many accolades its hard to keep track. The restaurant made the 50 best restaurant list, was named best restaurant in America by Eater, received a James Beard award for Outstanding

Restaurant in 2015, was nominated for Outstanding Service in 2016, Outstanding Restaurant Design and Best New Restaurant in 2005 and was recently nominated for yet another James Beard award this year for Outstanding Service. These countless recognitions are earned in part because of the impressive and talented chefs behind the line. The other contributor to the success is the lush and bountiful farmland that is taken care of by the members of the Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture. The Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture is open to the public with a variety of different tours. Recently, I was fortunate enough to visit Stone Barns during their Warm – Weather Weekend Admission. This type of tour runs every Saturday and Sunday from April to November. They offered a full schedule of drop in tours from 10 in the morning to 4 in the afternoon. My day began with meeting the honeybees in the apiary.

“Campus” July News Letter

“Feature” Menus of Change

View of the farm house at Stone Barns photo courtesy: Jason Hong

Two of the beekeepers explained how the bees worked with them on the farm to pollinate and help support good growth. Each “bee box” held anywhere from 40,000

to 60,000 bees, and the apiary held about 7 bee boxes. After we learned about the queen bees, and their Game of Thrones style of leadership, we were able

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“Feature” Backyard Birds Tasting

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to sample fresh from the hive honey. Next was the egg harvest in the front pasture. As many

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“Graduation”

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“Graduation” Bachelor’s Graduation

LA PAPILLOTE

Editorial

Papillote

THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979

July 26, 2017

PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Alison Sprong LAYOUT EDITOR Alex Talbot ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Dan Salisbury Mike Feist Alison Sprong Jeff Levine

Ariela Trepman

Charley Fischer

COMPACT

La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.

From the Editor’s Desk Dear Fellow Students, My name is Alison Sprong and it is an honor and a privilege to introduce myself as La Papillote’s new Editor-in-Chief. I have been a part of La Papillote since I began the AOS Culinary program last June. I am excited to continue the legacy of our school’s newspaper. La Papillote is in an exciting time. Our team is growing, our leaders are changing and we are working hard to bring our paper into the media driven world we live in. I am looking forward to promoting La Papillote as an outlet for our student body to share and discuss ideas, express creativity in many forms and inform the community on important issues. I encourage the entire student body to join our team and share your ideas. In this issue you’ll find takeaways from the Menus of Change Conference, take a trip to Stone Barns and preview the next innovation kitchen offerings to just name a few. This may give you ideas on somethings to do upon your return from summer break. I am very grateful for my new position as Editor-in-Chief. I would be remiss however if I did not thank a few people. First, our previous Editorin-Chief Dan Salisbury for without his guidance and friendship I would not be here. Also, thank you to Alex Talbot, our current Layout Editor for making sense of it all and to Matt Ivins for his continued support. And finally, of course, to you, our readers. Have a wonderful summer break! Alison Sprong

FOOD REVIEW POLICY

As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.

EDITORIAL POLICY

La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Dan Salisbury, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.

LETTERS POLICY

Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.

Alison Sprong Editor-in-Chief

Alex Talbot Layout Editor

Joe Piccirillo Social Media Editor

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The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations

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July 26, 2017

Campus

July News Letter BY: Jeff Levine, Staff Contributor

FAST FOOD BREAKTHROUGH AT CIA’S MENUS OF CHANGE

Through Menus of Change, the CIA and Harvard T. H. Chan School of Public Health have been encouraging the foodservice industry to provide healthier, more sustainable, and delicious food and to reconsider the role of protein in favor of plantforward culinary strategies. The initiative paid dividends at the 5th annual Menus of Change Leadership Summit in June when Sonic Drive-In became the first major quick-service chain to unveil a beef and mushroom “blended” burger. Blended burgers are healthier and better for the environment. But most importantly, they are tastier than all-beef burgers—with the mushroom providing “umami” mouth feel and making the burgers moister. And, Sonic isn’t the only food business adopting the Menus of Change principles. More than 80 percent of operators who have attended a summit introduced new recipes or revised existing ones as a result of participating. From corporate dining to multiunit restaurant groups, they are adopting the Menus of Change principles as part of their strategic planning. In addition, nearly 50 college and university foodservice operations are members of the Menus of Change University Research Collaborative. They conduct and share research in support of healthy food innovation within and beyond their walls. The 400 attendees at the CIA’s New York campus this year— executives, investors, and innovators in food, foodservice, health and nutrition, and sustainability—addressed issues such as food transparency, increasing the acceptance of plant-based proteins, and shifting consumer attitudes and behaviors towards more plant-forward options. Sessions from the 2017 Menus of Change can be viewed online. CIA UNVEILS FIRST PLANTFORWARD GLOBAL 50 LIST The CIA, working with the EAT Foundation, has released its first CIA-EAT Plant-Forward Global 50. The list includes 50 restaurants from all around the world that are advancing plant-forward food choices—each in their own way—and providing inspiration for change.

Based in Norway, the EAT Foundation links food, health and sustainable development across science, business, and policy. The Foundation worked with the CIA’s Strategic Initiatives Group to develop the program and select the first 50 honorees. The diverse range of chefs honored come from Paris to Peru, Mumbai to Madrid, and throughout the United States. The list reflects the critical role culinary insight plays in combating the issues facing the global food system, while respecting consumer taste and business profitability. The release of the inaugural list was recently featured in the Washington Post. OASIS FOR STUDENTS WITH ALLERGIES Amid all the ingredients tasted throughout the CIA curriculum, there is now an oasis for students with food allergies. Developed by the CIA’s Allergen Awareness Committee and foodservice provider Restaurant Associates, the OASIS program provides meals and snack options for students sensitive to common allergens. One campus kitchen has been specially designated to prepare food in an environment clear of any of the eight major allergens outlined by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration—peanuts, tree nuts, fish, shellfish, eggs, milk, soy, and wheat—as well as gluten. Housed in a building away from the other 42 teaching kitchens, it is carefully monitored to avoid cross-contact or crosscontamination. After the meals are composed, they are sealed and brought to the student dining venue, where they can be purchased as “grab-and-go” items on student meal plans.

Keller, chef/proprietor of the internationally renowned French Laundry and Per Se restaurants, joined with the CIA for the college’s first major West Coast fundraising event. “It is my true honor to partner in this event to benefit for the students of The Culinary Institute of America,” said Chef Keller, a member of the CIA’s Board of Trustees. “Through the camaraderie of golf, we are raising funds for student scholarships so they can learn from the worldclass teachers and chefs of the CIA.” The event opened with a reception, dinner, and live auction, accompanied by music from folk and blues singer Maria Muldaur. The golf tournament the following day featured a clinic with PGA pro Andy Miller before 25 teams played for trophies in a four-person scramble. “The generosity of the CIA’s friends allows us to continually advance our world-class educational offerings, such as the phenomenal study abroad programs, unparalleled learning environments, and ever-expanding bachelor’s degree majors,” said CIA President Tim Ryan. “Scholarships are the key to bringing these opportunities to life. They help us bring the most qualified, talented, and passionate students to our campuses. At the end of the day, that’s what this Golf Classic is all about.”

MORE WOMEN THAN MEN AT THE CIA? PUBLIC RADIO PROGRAM TAKES NOTICE For the first time ever, the majority of the CIA student body is female. The public radio program 51%, which is dedicated to providing a women’s perspective on various issues, used this fact to take a fresh look at women in the food world. Host and producer Allison Dunne visited the New York campus and spoke with Chef Cynthia Keller, CIA associate dean for culinary arts and a former restaurant owner, along with senior Culinary Science major Stephanie Smida. They both spoke honestly of the advancements made by women in recent years, as well as the challenges that remain. The full 25-minute episode was devoted to The Culinary Institute of America and the history of women at the college and in the hospitality field. Founded by two women in 1946, the New Haven Restaurant Institute (later the CIA) had one woman enrolled in the first class. Seventy years later, there are now more women than men studying in the CIA’s bachelor’s and associate degree programs.

TWO GRADS ARE EATER “YOUNG GUNS” Each year, the influential food website Eater looks for talented people in the food world who are under 30 years old and have been in the business fewer than five years. These future stars are Eater’s Young Guns, and for 2017, two CIA graduates have been recognized: Daniela Moreira, executive chef and owner of Timber in Washington, DC; and Dave Park, chef and owner of Hanbun in Chicago. Chef Park was also a 2017 semifinalist for the James Beard Foundation Award as Rising Star Chef of the Year. According to the Eater editors, Moreira, Park, and the other 15 honorees are “forward-thinking and deeply devoted to their craft. They’re going to keep growing, inspiring, and challenging others, and we’re excited to watch the industry change as they blaze new trails.”

Produced by Northeast Public Radio, 51% airs on public radio stations throughout the United States.

Main courses are vegan, and students have the option of adding a small portion of grilled chicken, beef, or pork if they choose. Because offerings are minimally processed and made from singlesource ingredients without hidden additives or seasonings, OASIS has also become popular with students who don’t have food allergies or other dietary restrictions. GOLFING WITH THOMAS KELLER FOR STUDENT SCHOLARSHIPS Chef Thomas Keller partnered with the CIA in June to raise more than $500,000 for student scholarships at the first annual Thomas Keller Golf Classic in Napa, CA.

President Ryan and Chef Keller at the scholarship golf classic. photo courtesy: Bob McClenahan

LA PAPILLOTE

Features

cont’d from Takeaways

and introduced more sustainable and healthful practices like having 100% of their fish certified sustainable. 4. Transparency isn’t going away. The presenters assured us that if the clean labelling trend won’t go away, neither will food labeling for transparency in ingredients and sourcing. Millennials will be a large part of the consumer base for at least the next 50 years, and it is likely that their generation’s insistence on clean labelling won’t go away either. The presenter joked that it’s the one of few good changes Millennials have caused. 5. Many of our catchphrases aren’t sexy enough. Food must be sexy. The presenters were skeptical that customers would like many relatively new food industry terms like “Nose-to-Tail” and “PlantForward”. They stressed that the culinary industry needs to slow down with some of these advances explaining that it’s the difference between the leading edge and the bleeding edge. 6.Healthy food doesn’t have to be expensive.

cont’d from Stone Barns as 50 chickens huddled around the three mobile chicken coops where two of the farmers talked about the different types of chickens that we were looking at. Then, visitors were able to go inside the chicken wire and harvest the eggs from the coops. After the eggs were placed the tractors to head back up to the restaurant, I headed across the pasture to weed the dahlias. This experience was different from any other farm tour because visitors actually took part in the daily farm tasks, such as weeding. One of the chefs from Blue Hill joined the visitors to weed and explain the culinary uses for dahlias. When the dahlias were clean, a herbalist and another chef from Blue Hill lead a foraging walk. The walk focused on the edible weeds found on the

K-12 schools are often seen as not receiving enough money for fresh and healthy school lunches. However, most of those cafeterias are managed poorly and purchase processed foods that in some cases are more expensive than fresh or raw ingredients. With proper management, even underfunded schools can serve nutritious and delicious food. Equally important is general education. If children are taught to eat nutritious and sustainable food, they will form healthy eating habits which they may teach their parents, and also eventually their own children. Schools will be one of the biggest ways we can change diets worldwide to focus on healthy and sustainable food. 7. Study Meatless Mondays. If you want to study reducing meat consumption, try Meatless Monday, a 15-year-old project to discourage meat consumption on Mondays for health and environmental benefit. The Mario Batali restaurants adhere to Meatless Mondays, with servers telling diners of the dual benefits and Batali pushing the movement through social and news media. 8. Diet has huge effects on land use.

property, and how they are used. This was an interesting point of the tour because visitors were just weeding in the pasture, and then we came to learn that most of what we pulled out of the ground was not only edible, but also delicious. By this time, I was ready for lunch. The Grain Café was the perfect spot for lunch. I was able to enjoy a light cheese and frisee sandwich with cucumber. Despite the simplicity of the sandwich, the fresh ingredients made it a sandwich above the rest. Af-

Michael Hamm, a professor at Michigan State University, stressed that our diets will play huge parts in preserving the environment. He claims that if everyone were on the Atkins Diet (with more protein and less carbs consumed) we would have double the land productivity to be able to support that diet. 9. Dinner with just vegetables could be a gateway drug. It may not be addicting, but Chef John Fraser believes that if people started consuming only vegetables for dinner, it could lead to larger dietary changes in all meals and benefit personal and environmental health. More people would be inspired to switch to a fully vegetarian diet, a diet which on average creates less than half of the CO2 emissions of a typical diet. Fraser envisions that one day, kids won’t stand for the way we raise, kill, and cook animals, just like how today we no longer stand for things like tenement housing and child labor. 10. Four changes are needed. Lina Gordon of Stockholm Resilience Centre focused on the fact that we’re each only here for 100 years or less, a relatively short time in world history.

ter sitting on the patio to regain some energy, I headed down to the barn to meet some of the farm animals. First was the ducklings and chicks. All of the ducklings shared one pen while the chicks were separated into three separate pens sorted by age. Later in the barn, visitors met the pigs and watched them enjoy their lunch. In commitment to sustainability, the farm fed the pigs donations of expired breads and yogurts from the local grocery store, as well as food scraps from the restaurant. Visitors were able to meet the pig-

We can still greatly impact the world, enhancing stewardship of the biosphere through four steps. First a protein shift away from meat and toward sustainable produce. Secondly, a quality shift from volume of food consumed into the nutritional content and quality of diet. Next, a culture shift away from food as a commodity and more as part of the earth that needs conserving. Finally, plan public spaces for growing and to reconnect farmers with the city residents.

lets as well. The day ended with a tour around the greenhouse. The farmer explained that they grow most of what is out in the field in the greenhouse as well, but the greenhouse has the added benefit of adding two weeks of the season for each piece of produce. Most of the visitors ended their day in the farm store, and with a much needed water break. Stone Barns would be a wonderful weekend visit for any CIA student. All of the tours focus on not only how the farm operates, but also how the restaurant

uses the fresh ingredients. The Warm - Weather Weekend is $20 for the entire days activities.

Daily schedule at Stone Barns photo courtesy: Jason Hong

ON CAMPUS

July 26, 2017

Features

The Who’s Who of the Menus of Change Conference BY: Mike Feist, BBA Food Business Management

The Menus of Change conference was supported by almost 50 corporate sponsors. Most of the vendors provided ingredients or dishes for the attendees’ breakfasts, lunches, snacks, and opened booths during breaks between lectures. The menu for the final lunch included rotini with smoked tomatoes by Barilla America, an Indian curry by Bush’s Best Beans, a coffeerubbed mushroom-beef burger by illy, and a trumpet mushroom mac and cheese by Land O’Lakes. One of the most interesting vendors was Ocean Hugger Foods, which sells a product called Ahimi. It’s a fish-less alternative to tuna made with sous-vide tomato, soy, sugar, and sesame oil. It is the “world’s first alternative solution to raw tuna” on the market and is made useful for nigiri sushi, rolls of makizushi, poke, tartare, and in noodles, salads, and more. At the conference, the company served it in nigiri and an avocado-watercress sushi. The product is stunningly similar to raw tuna sushi in taste, texture, and flavor, and definitely worth a taste. Tuna are severely overfished because of its overwhelming popularity, which gave the company’s founder, CMC James Corwell, former Chef Instructor at the Wine Spectator restaurant at Greystone, the idea to create a healthier and more sustainable alternative. It’s currently only sold in New York City Fresh & Co restaurants, but the company has plans to expand. The Mushroom Council

provided platters of the burger that won last year’s Burger Bash at the CIA, mushroom & beef blended burger patties topped with caramelized onions, watercress, gruyere, Kewpie mayonnaise, and fried onions. The blended burger recipe uses ½ lb. mushrooms, 2 tbsp. olive oil, 1 lb. ground beef, and salt. The Council recommends using anywhere from 25 to 50 percent mushroom of any variety. It creates a juicy burger with a more complex umami flavor. Focus groups also liked the burger, and even preferred the beef-mushroom blend to all-beef in a sensory analysis of taco meat. The Mushroom Council serves to create demand and awareness for mushrooms, in ad-

dition to researching their health benefits. They want to popularize the term “blenditarian”, meaning one who “believes that the mighty mushroom has meaty powers to make meals more delicious, nutritious and sustainable.” They suggest that the blended burger is juicier, more flavorful, and contains more vitamins than all-beef burgers. Where mushroom production has been determined to create 0.7 pounds of CO2 emissions per pound of mushrooms, beef production creates approximately 25 pounds of CO2 emissions per pound, higher than any other food. Developed by the CIA seven years ago, the blended burgers have been served at hundreds of colleges, including the

University of Notre Dame, Stanford University, and Princeton University. Sonic Drive-In is the first big chain to test the blended burgers, and will sell the product at some of their restaurants in a 60-day trial this August. Also contributing to the event was Verterra, a NYCbased tableware company. They use fallen palm leaves to cut bowls, plates, boxes, and utensils. They’re proud of the fact that their products are only processed with water, heat, and UV light, using little energy and chemicals, and reusing the water used during processing. The dishes can be used in microwaves and ovens, and will compost naturally in 2 months time. The idea that they

are the most environmentallyfriendly disposables on the market has led the CIA not only to use their plates, bowls, and bento boxes in the Menus of Change conference, but in CIA conferences in New York and California for the past four years.

President Ryan speaking at Menus of Change photo courtesy: The Poughkeepsie Journal

Restaurant FOR SALE The Roman Catholic Chapel of Our Lady of the Way (La Madonna della Strada)

Holy Mass Sundays 10:00AM & Noon Holy Days 12:00PM Chaplain: Father Marc Oliver chaplainua@gmail.com Office: 845-331-0436 Cellular: 845-594-9111

Calico Restaurant & Patisserie located in the heart of Historic Rhinebeck, NY village. Restaurant and pastry shop owned and operated by CIA graduate for 23+ years. Long term very favorable lease. Boutique restaurant and pastry shop has Two kitchens- 1) Full ala carte 2) Air conditioned pastry kitchen with sheeter. Excellent turn key opportunity for Chef and Pastry Chef team. Please contact Anthony Balassone (845)876-2749

LA PAPILLOTE

Features

Sneak Peak of Backyard Birds BY: Dan Salisbury, BPS Applied Food Studies

On July 7th, the newest Innovation Kitchen concept at The Egg held an exclusive advance consumer tasting of their menu. Part of the Intrapreneurship Concentration in the Food Business Management major, the tasting was led by Lindsay Bowe of Backyard Birds. CIA students, faculty, and staff were given sample portions of the entire menu, and were invited to leave suggestions, critiques, and reviews of the menu items currently offered for the opening menu. Backyard Bird’s slogan is “Southern Hospitality - New York Attitude,” and this theme rings true throughout the menu. The tasting started off with a sampling of the main dishes; those at the tasting were presented with a large plate of Southern fare. The Korean-style fried chicken, double-fried with a layer of crispy seasoned breading that gave way to the juicy interior, sat alongside its lighter cousin of Josperroasted chicken quarters, which was covered in a savory Jerk rub. Both chicken entrees were quite good, with most of the “tasters” cleaning their plates very quickly. For those who are looking for a meatless entrée, the vegetarian pot pie was filling and delicious, made with beans, farro, and butternut squash. This crowd-pleaser was fairly interactive; cutting into the crispy biscuit crust to get into the filling of the pie led to more than a few smiles in the room. The third main dish option consisted of a southern take

on a soup and sandwich. Slices of maple-bourbon ham were neatly layered on a freshly baked buttermilk biscuit. The sandwich was paired with a gumbo; however, the soup will change each block. With the exception of the soup and slider, each dish comes with two sides. Look for wellexecuted versions of the mac and cheese, sweet and tangy braised kale (cooked with ginger and finished with apple cider vinegar), and a sweet and savory version of baked beans. All of these dishes were quite filling. The Mexican corn dish, elote, seems to be a staple on menus throughout the United States at the moment, and Backyard Bird’s version is topped with a generous pat of Cajun butter, giving a Southern twist. The Backyard Birds kitchen is headed by Lynnardo Holland, General Manager and Marcela Andonie, Executive Chef. As part of the Intrapreneurship concentration, each Innovation Kitchen concept is chosen by a panel of distinguished chefs and judges. “The most rewarding part of this concentration,” says Sean Morrill, Chief Financial Officer of Backyard Birds, “is turning a concept into a reality.” Like any start-up, “Backyard Birds has faced multiple hurdles, but this had a led to a rounded education of opening a new business, especially regarding the financial and operational aspects.” Lynnardo Holland echoes Morrill’s excitement, who states that “the original idea for

Backyard Birds was hatched by [students] Ryan Matthews and Rodney Harvey. However, it took thirteen individuals for this concept to truly take flight. We know our future customers will be thrilled with the dynamic flavor profiles that we have tirelessly worked on. Our unofficial motto has rung true to those who have tasted our food: “Dark or white bird’s done right!” Not only was the chicken and various sides great, but the dessert finished strongly as well.

Executive Chef Marcela Andonie, who is also currently works in the pastry department at the Bocuse Restaurant, created the Backyard Cookie, which consists of soft vanilla ice cream sandwiched between two soft cookies, studded with pretzel pieces, Reese’s pieces, chocolate chips, and toffee. Another dessert featured in the tasting was the whoopie pie; in this specific iteration for the upcoming fall season, two soft pumpkin cakes were held together by a soft and sweet Swiss

meringue filling. Backyard Birds looks to please a lot of varied tastes that are often encouraged to be critical. Selling various dishes at differing price points, Backayard Birds allows students to have a taste of the south without breaking the bank. The new Innovation Kitchen concept will open after the summer break, and will feature various specials and creative dishes throughout the next semester. Look for Backyard Birds, hatching in The Egg very soon!

Backyard Birds fried chicken, elote, and mac and cheese photo courtesy: Dan Salisbury

Poem of the Block BY: Christian Duncan, Alumni Contributor

I’ve been dreaming Of Ahimi, do you even know what that means? A step forward in sustainability A result in over fishing No part of me is wishing That all the tuna would go away But a part of me is missing Ahimi changed my life if I must say Hits of umami, sweetness, and just a bit of confusion It fooled me into forgetting that it was tomato they were usin Plant based alternative For tuna that is, you see Consumer numbers are dropping

due to radiation poisoning People are eating less tuna, that’s fine more for me And when it runs out I won’t scream and shout Because I have Ahimi

thing The flavour insane, too!

It’s Ahimi not surimi A clever play of words Vegetables in place of fish This isn’t for the birds Eggplant for eel Carrot for salmon Tomato for tuna? Just try its slammin! The texture is crazy So similar to the true These developers are on to some-

Ahimi Sushi photo courtesy: oceanhuggerfoods.com

July 26, 2017

Fulfilling Your Food Needs BY: Charley Fischer, Food Writing Contributor

photo courtesy: livestrong.com

The approach: A plethora of options. Bars, kitchens, bed rooms, vending machines, even the prime spot in front of the TVall have one thing in common: they are a great place to eat chips, chips that come in all shapes and sizes. Some are cracked from packaging or victim to that awful bag boy who plopped the milk right on top. Others, expertly sliced and fried to crispy perfection (topped with only the finest cheese curds). The crisp triangle tortilla ones freely await guests with heavy salt and side of salsa. No matter who you are (yes

health nuts, I see those grain free and quinoa imitations) chips are timeless. I know the potato chip only came onto the scene about 200 years ago, but that is beside the point. They are timeless. Chips are the neighbor you met two summers ago; you know, the one you only interact with through smiles and the occasional wave, subtle extras in the movie of life. Whether in the pantry or at a gathering, they will always “be there” and that comforts the heart. In direct contrast to their subtlety, they also have the complexity of an old friend.

Pelon Pelo Rico

BY: Ariela Trepman, Food Writing Contributor

Pelon Pelo Rico is literally translated into “bald man with yummy hair”. This bizarre, yet incredibly awesome name belongs to the spicy tamarind flavored Mexican candy of childhood. I grew up eating spicy tamarind paste that would squeeze out the top of its container as if it was a bald persons suddenly growing hair and I was the hairstylist. I want to take this moment to thank the creator of this candy for giving me a childhood full of imagination, and deliciousness! This wonderful man is Fernando Topete, he created this fine candy at his home in Guadalajara, Mexico over 30 years ago. After creating the candy he established an entire company called Grupo Lorena that took care of manufacturing Pelon Pelo Rico. In addition, the company produced some of its brother candies such as Crayola, a fruit flavored paste that would come out of a Crayola shaped container. The Hershey Co. bought Grupo Lorena in November 2004. Once I learned this information I felt betrayed and even a little mad. How could everything I believe to be so purely Mexican be owned by one of the largest chocolate manufacturing companies? HOW? The more I began to think about it, the more I came to terms with it. Perhaps if Hershey had not bought Grupo Lorena my childhood candy would now be nothing but a memory; a forgotten candy I used to eat that no longer exists to satisfy and enter-

tain millions of kids. I researched further and I became more comfortable with the purchasing of the company. “As Juan Carlos Zayas, the director of marking for Hershey Mexico in Guadalajara points out, the company motto for Grupo Lorena, ‘Good people working well,’ dovetails nicely with Hershey’s version, ‘great people building great brand.’ The two companies merged very well together and the continuation of producing Pelon Pelo Rico was always at play, thank god. Pelon Pelo Rico holds the position “as the leading spicy candy brand in Mexico” . That is not for nothing. Pelon Pelo Rico’s are spicy tamarind flavored candy made from a combination of ingredients including; “sugar, water, corn syrup, chili powder, citric acid, salt, xanthan gum, natural and artificial flavors, caramel color,” and a whole lot of happiness and perfection. This gooey paste is spicy enough to make your taste buds tingle but not so much as to make you run for a glass of water, (which usually never works) to calm the spice down anyways. Since there is also sweetness to it this makes the perfect combination of spicy and sweet. Just enough to make you instantly addicted. Besides the well-balanced taste of this magical yummy hair, the container it comes in and the way it is eaten make up 90% of the fun. I would like to describe the proper way of eating a Pelon:

Features

The friend who knows all your secrets and can be talked at for hours (but is not too clingy). You could go days or weeks or even months without them, but next time they arrive, you pick up right where you left off. This intimate relationship cannot be found with many other foods. Eating every chip in the bag or bowl can happen swiftly. Before you know it, the whole thing has been devoured, so find the ones you can cherish. (Even if it must be those flimsy, grain less triangles that help you stick to your 30-day cave man diet). For me that one, truly cherished chip is the Classic Lays. They bring back childhood memories with the first crunch. Do I care that they are not appropriate to eat in class because the bag crinkles WAY too much? Or that the grease is visible, shining on your fingers in the summer sun? No, of course not. These perfectly salty slivers of potato go with everything from a cheap hot dog to my Sunday morning bagel and cream cheese. They always satisfy my itching desire for added crisp (sometimes even layered in between meat and cheese ON a sandwich) and double as a ves-

sel for almost any dip. Unlike the defective side of vegetables or the limp, soggy, coleslaw, these chips are the perfect side, consistent and reliable. Those healthy, undercover chip eaters may wrongly suggest that I try out the Baked Lays or veggie chips as a better alternative, but the almost transparent morsels of Classic Lays are irreplaceable. Even the packaging is recognizable. The bright yellow bag, featuring a potato, can be detected from across the room. One at a time, the chips wait to be plucked from their crinkling, plastic-like vessel. The most prized ones are the folded ones, (of course) bent over like a taco, giving the consumer an even more satisfying texture to bite into. They are like the white Chex that are covered with extra seasoning or the surprise 11th chicken nugget in the 10 pack you ordered, highly sought after and more satisfying as a result. They are appreciated because of their rarity. If every chip was inconspicuously folded, they would lose their wonder. The full beauty of chips lies in that unexplainable fulfillment that overwhelms the senses

as if you have won a piece of candy during the fourth-grade spelling test or received an unexpected cupcake from a friend on your birthday. Few prepackaged snacks can bring that extreme salty satisfaction. Where ever you are consuming chips (and whatever brand you prefer), they always bring that reassuring feeling of contentment. So-what if they offer no nutritional value or leave you feeling hungry no more than five minutes after finishing? That fleeting simplicity is what enables us to love them. As Diane Duane once said, “Reading one book is like eating one potato chip, [impossible]”. So, I say go find a memory making, joy bringing, familiar feeling bag of chips and start your next trilogy.

1. Take off the red cap

Pelon Pelo Rico was originally marketed to be sold at Mexican corner-stores for children and teenagers to enjoy. It now sells for about $.50 (US currency). It first sold only in Mexican states, but after the purchasing of Grupo Lorena by the Hershey Company it began to be exported to the US as well as Canada. The market expanded and the candy began to feature the logos, nutrition facts and ingredient labels in both English and Spanish. The logo has seen some changes over the years. The main character on the logo is a yellow cartoon man with a red Mohawk. Its head is shaped like the top of the candy’s container and the red Mohawk hair is a cartoon representation of the tamarind candy. This logo or character is dressed differently according to which of the Pelon product it is placed on, at first this character had on a green skirt made out of leaves and now it is dressed in a white t shirt and a red button down shirt. The Pelon Pelo Rico brand now has twenty-one different versions of this candy from the original tamarind flavor Pelon, to its mini and jumbo sizes. There are also Pelon Peloneta Tamarindo con Mango, which is a tamarind and mango flavored lollipop, and Pelon Pelonetes Hot Intenso, which is miniature Pelon candy balls, flavored with extreme spice This brand has really expanded its horizons and grown to form a variety of products that

are widely loved by children in Mexico, the United States, and Canada. It still remains a part of mainstream culture in Mexico. Anybody who has ever entered a corner store, a candy store, the supermarket, or even gone to a friends birthday party and taken the goodie bag home after butchering the piñata, has seen and tried a Pelon at lest once, although if you have tried it once there is a good chance you have eaten it again and again. As for the United States and Canada it is still an export candy that has not become as popular as Sour Patches or Hershey’s bars. I would consider an American or Canadian that has had this candy to be very well educated on the candy spectrum. As for the age target for this candy, there is none. This delicacy can be enjoyed as early as little hands can wrap around the container and until it is given up, in my grandfather’s case, he still eats it and is well over 80. Pelon is at the beginning of its breakthrough in the candy world outside of Mexico. Just like those who eat it this candy has no limit. So go and do yourself a favor, find your local Mexican store and buy the spicy tamarind hair of a bald man. You will not regret it.

2. Begin to squeeze the top piece so the tamarind flavored hair comes out of the top a little at a time 3. Lick the “hair” off and repeat step 2 as many times as the candy allows you to 4. While doing step 3 you can create different “hairstyles” on your Pelon; just for fun 5. Once you can not squeeze any longer, pull apart both pieces of the container to retrieve the remaining tamarind paste 6. Grab the top piece with one hand and the bottom piece with the other and twist them as you pull them apart 7. The green top part and the white bottom part are now separate 8. With your tongue lick the paste form the white piece and then from the green piece 9. After step 8 (if you are a dedicated eater) stick your finger in and retrieve the unreachable parts your tongue could not reach 10. Your finger will get extremely sticky but you will not care *Other children who grew up in Mexico confirmed this method of eating Pelon.

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Entertainment

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Graduation

AOS Graduating Class of July 27, 2017

Culinary Arts Group #1

Front Row: Jenna Greco, Aaron Powell. Megha Bedhrani Back Row: Connor Kamielk, Alex Smith, Josh Greldus, Chris Minoz

Baking and Pastry Group #3

Front Row: Chattawat Jensiriwanick, Ashley M. Termini, Seunghwa Lee, Anahi Xelo, Shauna Barberich, Ashley Feimer, Jesies Perez-Lopez Back Row: Haley Scott, Kelley Teckman, Josie Waisbrest, Alyssa Snell, Mckenna Plante, Grace Kobold, Danielle Bollingy, Samantha Lopez, Diana Cerqueira

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Front Row: Madison Eger, Brian Landers, Max Oehlmann, Waverly Banks Back Row: Abigail Harding, Chris Ballon, John Wowcicefzki, Amool Tangkiriphimarn, Maria Jose Reynoso Azuris

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Front Row: Yunkyeong Heo, Jeongrok Oh, Kelly Niles, Anastasia Kuirikadze Back Row: Peter Hong, Danielle Malioaro, Megan Dula, Andalia Clarke, Ji Moom Park

July 26, 2017

Graduation

AOS Graduation Speaker: Philip Colicchio Founding Partner Taylor Colicchio LLP

BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor

Phil Colicchio occupies a unique space in the universe of hospitality. As an attorney and co-founder of Princeton, NJ- and New York City-based Taylor Colicchio LLP, he has represented the interests of over 100 food and beverage professionals, more than 45 of whom have become James Beard Foundation Awardwinning chefs, restaurateurs, beverage professionals, service professionals, restaurant designers, and authors. Mr. Colicchio was a pioneer in the representation of chefs as the age of “celebrity chef-dom” dawned and the international restaurant boom began. He advocated for chefs to receive individual financial rewards in exchange for licensing their hard-earned intellectual property to hotels, resorts, restaurant investors, and product manufacturers by structuring and negotiating long-term management and licensing contracts. After years of focusing solely on representing the “talent” side of the food business, Mr. Colicchio expanded his services by forming Colicchio Consulting LLC, bringing his experience

and deep relationships in the chef community to the mixed use, retail, and hotel development sectors. He counsels these groups on the keys to successful identification, selection, negotiation, and engagement of high-quality food and beverage operators. He also advises professional and collegiate sports venue operators and large-scale music festival promoters on strategies geared toward elevating their food and beverage experiences. Mr. Colicchio works with the CIA as an advisor and pitch-off judge for bachelor’s students in the Intrapreneurship concentration, and assists the college’s efforts to provide advanced education in food business management. He also serves as a member of the Auburn University Hotel and Restaurant Management Program Advisory Board, and is currently a director of the Heritage Radio Network in Brooklyn, NY and creator and past host of The Business of the Business, a weekly restaurant industry podcast on HRN. In addition, Mr. Colicchio is a Governor’s Appointee to the New Jer-

sey State Council on the Arts. A member of the Pennsylvania, New York, and American Bar Associations, he serves on the International Council of Shopping Centers, the National Association of Real Estate Investment Trusts, the Mortgage Bankers Associations of both New Jersey and America, the New Jersey Apartment Owner Association, and the American Association of Homes and Services for the Aging. Born in Elizabeth, NJ, Mr. Colicchio graduated magna cum laude from Seton Hall University in 1981 and in 1984 earned a degree from the Villanova University Charles Widger School of Law. Prior to joining Taylor Colicchio, he served as senior counsel to the Federal Home Loan Mortgage Corporation (“Freddie Mac”) in Washington, DC from 1988 to 1992.

Philip Colicchio photo couresy: Leslie Jennings

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Graduation

Bachelor’s Graduation Speaker: Robert Bennett Chairman of Statler Foundation

Bob Bennett photo couresy: Leslie Jennings

Robert M. Bennett is chairman of The Statler Foundation, which awards scholarships and grants to schools, research projects, and culinary arts and hotel management programs. The foundation is a longtime supporter of The Culinary Institute of America and its students. Mr. Bennett previously served as president and CEO of the United Way of Buffalo and Erie County from 1985 until 2000, and before that, as vice president for administration, agency relations, and resource development. During his 23 years there, several initiatives were developed, including an early childhood collaboration program, a public-private partnership to treat and protect victims of child sex abuse, and a county-wide collaboration for the frail elderly. Other accomplishments included family resource centers in schools, a task force on the achievement gap, a non-profit resource center, a management service for human resource agencies, and the first Day of Caring. In his time as president, $240 million was raised and allocated to community services. Previously, Mr. Bennett spent four years in local government positions and was the director of public affairs for the Buffalo Area

Chamber of Commerce. In 1995, Mr. Bennett was elected as the regent for the Eighth Judicial District at a Joint Session of the New York State Legislature, and reelected to three additional five-year terms. In 2002, he was elected chancellor and reelected to two consecutive terms. He stepped down as chancellor in 2009, continuing to serve as a regent representing Western New York, and the Board of Regents unanimously appointed him chancellor emeritus, a lifetime title. Chancellor Emeritus Bennett holds a BA in English from the University of Notre Dame and a master’s in interdisciplinary studies from SUNY Buffalo. Having taught at the graduate level since 1977, he currently serves as a distinguished lecturer at Niagara University and Canisius College. Mr. Bennett is a trustee of the John R. Oishei Foundation and D’Youville College. In 2005, he was appointed by Bishop Kmiec as a member of the Buffalo Diocesan Planning Commission. Mr. Bennett also serves on the board of directors of Catholic Charities of Western New York and as a Eucharistic minister for St. Christopher’s Parish. In addition, he serves on the advisory board of the Arthur O. Eve Edu-

cational Center, was appointed to the Erie County Children’s Coordinating Council by the county executive, and is a member of the Bishop’s Council on Catholic Education for Western New York. His many honors include twice being named Citizen of the Year by The Buffalo News as well as receiving the One Person Award from the United Way, the Community Service Award from D’Youville College, and the Bishop McNulty Youth Service Award. He earned a Citizen of the Year nod from the Food Bank of Western New York, along with the Theodore Roosevelt Award, the Association of Vocational Education Leadership Award, and the Friends of Children Award from the Association for the Education of Young Children. Mr. Bennett also received the Leadership Award from the National Center for Community and Justice, the Parents Anonymous Leader Award and the Rev. John C. Cavanaugh Award from the University of Notre Dame, the St. Bonaventure University Gaudete Medal, and the Father Baker Award for Service to Youth. He holds honorary doctorate degrees from Niagara University, Canisius College, and D’Youville Colleges.

Bachelor’s Graduating Class of July 26, 2017

Bachelor’s Graduates photo courtesy: Jennifer Speziale