May 27, 2016
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Volume 37, No. 07
Papillote Celebrating CIA’s Founders Day May 22, 2016
CIA’s 70th Anniversary
Trending Podcasts: Gravy & Burnt Toast
Industry Changes: Overtime Pay Extension
BY: Makena Wininger, AOS Culinary
Most technology trends are a boom and bust situation. Today’s “hot new thing” will be totally different in a week’s time, if not by tomorrow. However, the tech trend of podcasting is the exception to that rule. Podcasts have been in existence for over a decade, yet unlike other trends and rather than hitting the scene, becoming wildly popular, and then quickly falling out of favor, they have stuck around. The podcast trend has been a slow and steady one, but it is on the rise. In a world where the AM/FM radio and the hard-copy magazine are quickly disappearing, pioneers of the radio and print industries have found a way to reinvent themselves and make it marketable to the instant download and streaming society we live in today.
With podcasts slowly gaining popularity, this opened a new door to the food media industry. Currently, iTunes hosts 240 different food-related podcasts covering everything from homebrewing to vegan cooking. They are hosted by people from every level of the culinary world, from famous chefs to food bloggers to home-cooks. Having all of these different voices commenting on our food, how we grow it, the way we eat it, and how to make it better, lends to a great wealth of information out there just waiting to be heard. But with over 240 options, where does one even start? Well, I have a couple suggestions for those who are willing to give podcasts a try. From the curators of the food blog Food52 comes Burnt Toast, a show hosted by Kenzie Wilbur and a rotating cast of guests.
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BY: Ian Gilchrist, AOS Baking & Pastry
Thinking about graduation and employment prospects? Freaking out about those outrageous student loans? Well, I have good news for you! Restaurant workers received a gift from the Obama Administration this week, a new regulation that will extend overtime pay to, essentially, the entire industry. According to the Department of Labor, millions of employees will be eligible for overtime pay, extending it to employees who make up to $47,500 per year. It will also jump every three years to keep up with inflation. The new rule will go into effect December 1, 2016, but how it plays out will vary from business to business. As it currently stands, only 7% of workers in the United States qualify for overtime pay. Workers in the restaurant industry will receive a much
needed raise, receiving 1.5 times their pay after working 40 hours per week. In an industry where working 50-60 hours is not uncommon, the new overtime regulation will boost the income of employees who frequently sit just above the poverty line. As of 2016, the Department of Labor reports that nearly 40% of restaurant workers are impoverished, and as of 2012 they reported the restaurant industry was the lowest paying in the United States. This new regulation will hopefully come as a reprieve from financial hardship. Republicans in Congress have worked tirelessly to block attempts to raise the minimum wage from $7.25 per hour to $10.00 per hour. The Department of Labor estimates that the “average U.S. wage for Chefs, Lead Cooks, and
Pastry Chefs is $45,920. For Bakers that number is $26,270.” Salaried employees making less than $47,500 will automatically qualify for overtime pay. In addition, New York City recently raised minimum wage to $15.00 per hour to better improve lower-class income. The anticipated result is that by expanding overtime coverage, wages across the industry will level out. As a result, those with more experience will receive a further bump in pay to adjust. Extra long hours are traditionally expected to move you up the ranks in businesses; sacrificing your time to show how dedicated you are to your job. Unfortunately in some circumstances, this has been exploited by the restaurant industry. Employees have been put on salary, guaranteeing that
emergency you are likely to encounter on an airline anyway, right? So what happened in the world that lifted chefs up to higher approval ratings than doctors? Primarily I think we have television to thank for that. If you have been watching TV for the past 15-20 years or so, or know someone who has been watching TV, you’d have noticed the sharp increase in the amount of cooking programs that exist. And existence is an understatement. Thriving would be a more accurate verb. The most popular of
these programs are the circuses where contestants run hither and thither in a panic, dramatic music plays, people shout, and dishes are always plated in the last ten seconds. It’s a mess. With the rise of these lively cooking shows, there has also been the simultaneous establishment (some might say entrenchment) of the celebrity chef. They are commonplace now, but ask any person above the average CIA student age and they will tell you there was a time when no such person existed on network television.
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White Jacket, Blue Collar
BY: Tristan Heath, AOS Culinary
Gravy: print and podcast—is the James Beard Foundation’s Publication of the Year. photo courtesy: www.southernfoodways.com
“From the Editor’s Desk”
“Campus”
70 Years of Excellence
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To what extent do you think the general public (non-food service people) understands a career based in the kitchen? We live in a time where the title of ‘chef’ is highly revered and celebrated. Some contemporary surveys meant to assess people’s level of respect for different job titles even have chefs beating out doctors. Imagine the stereotypical movie scene where an emergency is encountered in the middle of a flight and instead of desperately calling out for a MD they ask for a cook. And quite frankly, the food is the most common
Papillote
CENTER SPREAD
“Feature”
Time for a Change
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“Graduation”
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“Campus”
One Step Begins a Journey
LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
En
From the Editor’s Desk
May 27, 2016
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kevin J. Markey LAYOUT EDITOR Thiana Anderson ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Tristan Heath Joseph Haffly Jennifer Dunger Makena Wininger Shelly Loveland Leslie Jennings Lynnardo Holland Kevin Markey
Matt Ivins Dave Whalen Arianna Weiler Haylee Stephens Jeff Levine Ian Gilchrist Thiana Anderson Lauren Byrne
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
May 27, 2016
Fellow Students,
With only three short weeks until I graduate AOS, I have been finding sentiment where I usually wouldn’t. Last issue I spoke about the most rare CIA commodity; silence. But, now I think I’ll touch on what I find to be not only the CIA’s the most treasured commodity, but life’s as well; friendship. Cliché? Sure. But, in my moments of sentiment recently I’ve seen my friends and my time with them to be something that brings true joy. I wish I could say that cooking brought me pure joy. But alas, it usually brings frustration built upon despair, fueled by competition, and ending up in addiction. These are not unique experiences, many of us in this profession wonder: what if we’d chosen a ‘normal’ lifestyle? Many of us, deep down, know that we enjoy the pain of the 16 hour swollen feet, numb hands and aching body’s. But, often it is that moment at the end of the night, where you look at your colleagues, all who have been through the same burning fire as you and you just know. You know that this is your passion, maybe not the hours, probably the food, but most undoubtedly the people. Over the course of my life I have come to realize that it is the relationships that I have built that have made every challenge worthwhile. Here at the CIA and out in the industry they refer to it as ‘networking’. But, I think it is more than that. I believe that the more people I get to know, the better person I become. I have grown and am still growing. Sláinte, Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Kevin Markey, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
Thiana Anderson Layout Editor
Makena Winniger Copy Editor
Lauren Byrne Social Media Editor
Jennifer Dunger Photographer
Hanna Krilov Puzzle Editor
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations
Maura A. King Director-Compliance
Title IX and Age Discrimination
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Office: Roth Hall Room S324
Office: Roth Hall Room S351
Telephone: 845-451-1314
Telephone: 845-451-1429
Email: J_morano@culinary.edu
Email: m_king@culinary.edu
The Culinary Institute of America 1946 Campus Drive Hyde Park, NY 12538 Should you require further information, please visit http://ciachef.edu/consumerinformation.
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May 27, 2016
Campus
SGA Update
BY: Halyee Stephens, SGA Public Relations Manager
Hyde Park, NY – There are many big things going on within the Student Government Association, as we strive to grow as an organization and continue to make changes to better campus life for the student body. With a new board we hope to accomplish as much, if not more, than our predecessors. Our school is always looking for ways to improve itself to better serve the students and faculty, and SGA works to ensure student voices are heard along the progression. With the ratification of the SGA constitution being voted and finalized, we have gone forward with appointing five Student Representatives. Those representatives are Darwin Acosta, Jose Gordillo, Nicholas Green, Younah Lee, and Travis Lopez. Applications are still being accepting for the final position. As of now, representatives focus on the student body as a whole, not a specific area of campus, with the exception of our International Student Representative. The board is currently working on giving each representative a certain area of campus to focus on to work specifically on those issues and address concerns from the student body. Possible areas of focus include curriculum, safety, and resident life. These focus areas will be announced once final decisions have been made. SGA is actively involved with many departments across campus to provide the administration with the student perspective on the major issues facing the Hyde Park campus. The Food Allergy Committee was created after a previous board brought the issue to the administration’s attention, and we continue to work with them to improve our signage and awareness of allergens in the kitchens. Currently, we are working to create a list of FAQ’s that a student with an allergy would wish to know before entering a new kitchen. These questions will then be posted online for new and current students to see. If you have any opinions or feedback on this topic, we encourage you to attend a Public Meeting or contact an SGA member directly. Before attending the Campus Safety Meeting, the board discussed safety issues on campus to bring to attention, which included making sure there is proper lighting on sidewalks across campus, ensuring there are safe pedestrian paths in major foot traffic areas, along with other
items of concern. Again, if you see any safety issues on campus, please bring it to the attention of the board so we may adequately represent the students’ voices on the matter. Leveraging technology to better communicate with the student body is a top priority of the SGA and as such, the board has an exciting announcement. Finishing an item from the previous SGA President; Randy Boden and Vice President Felicia Gane, SGA is launching a mobile app for clubs and organizations and the SGA to communicate about their events and initiatives. The current board had a final meeting with a member of the IT department to be sure the app would work well with the existing IT systems and be an overall useful addition to the campus. Adviser Matt Ivins says, “the mobile app will, no doubt, make accessing information about clubs and t events much easier. In addition, this will allow for greater transparency with the SGA to the students as well as make it easier for students to provide feedback and concerns directly to their representatives.” An official launch date will be announced soon, with plans of it being finalized prior to summer break. Public meetings are held every other Wednesday at 9:15 PM in the Multi-Purpose Room in the SRC; dates can be found posted on bulletin boards and in “The Scoop”. These meetings provide opportunity for students to learn what SGAis working on, witness new club activations, and voice any questions or concerns. Over the course of next month there will be several presentations from various members of the CIA administration. Topics discussed will include updates to the academic catalogue and campus IT updates. We strongly encourage students to go to these meetings to be aware of these updates and other happenings on campus. New student positions, food allergy awareness, and a mobile app are just some of the current projects the SGA is working on. We continue to seek improvement for the school, and the overall student experience. If you ever see a problem or have a concern on campus, do not be afraid to approach your Senator, a board member, or student representative. It is important to remember that even though changes are being made, the one thing that does not change is that students come first.
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70 Years of Excellence BY: Jeff Levine, Staff Contributor
Hyde Park, NY – The Culinary Institute of America—the college that has launched the careers of thousands of culinary leaders around the world—is celebrating seven decades of education al excellence. The New Haven Restaurant Institute opened its doors in New Haven, CT on May 22, 1946. The first and only school of its kind in the United States, the college was founded in an effort to train returning World War II veterans in the culinary arts. The Institute opened its doors with 50 students and a faculty consisting of a chef, a baker, and a dietitian. That school changed its name to The Culinary Institute of America in 1951, and in 1972 the college relocated to the bluff high atop the Hudson River in Hyde Park, NY. Today, the CIA has grown into the world’s premier culinary college—and this week marks its 70th anniversary. The campus community celebrated the milestone with an impressive anniversary cake made by students. Adding to the CIA pride in the local community, the Franklin Delano Roosevelt Mid-Hudson Bridge in Poughkeepsie was lit in the college’s green and gold school colors. The CIA’s original director, Connecticut attorney Frances Roth, may have never worked in a restaurant, but she was one of the most influential pioneers in culinary education. She was determined to establish a school that would become “the culinary center of the nation.” With support from co-founder Katharine Angell, wife of then-Yale University President James Rowland Angell, Mrs. Roth turned her passion into a new vision for educating chefs. Only one college has advanced the food professions and the American diet for 70 years. The CIA vigorously carries forward this legacy of leadership in its education programs, research, and service—and through the global impact of more than 48,000 alumni. Since its founding, the CIA has offered education programs distinguished by their quality, innovation, and resources. Instruction emphasizes handson learning in small class settings, and key initiatives have included the creation of student-staffed restaurants, the introduction of courses in nutritional cooking and wine studies, the addition of management studies, and the CIA’s unique curriculum that assures
students build their knowledge and skills in the ideal learning sequence. To address the growing responsibilities of foodservice professionals, the CIA has continually advanced its education programs, beginning with its introduction of the first associate degree program in culinary arts in 1971. The college added a second major in baking and pastry arts in 1990, and introduced the firstever bachelor’s degrees in Culinary Arts Management or Baking and Pastry Arts Management in 1993. The CIA has since added bachelor’s degree majors in Culinary Science and Applied Food Studies, and bachelor’s concentration topics in advanced baking and pastry; advanced wine, beverage, and hospitality; Asian cuisine; intrapreneurship; and Latin cuisine.
CIA programs are routinely recognized internationally for their excellence. This excellence is backed by extraordinary faculty and facilities at campuses in New York, California, Texas, and Singapore. The college’s newest facility, The Culinary Institute of America at Copia, opens this fall in downtown Napa, CA. The college also operates The Food Business School (FBS) as the executive education center of the CIA. The world’s first business school dedicated to food entrepreneurship and innovation, FBS offers programs both online and at facilities in California and New York. With the support of the foodservice and hospitality industry, the CIA continues to lead the way, inspiring excellence worldwide.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
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A couple of weeks ago, an older chef with many accolades was on campus. One of the things he is credited with in his long career is helping establish the professional chef as a resource that can be found on television. He starred in an award winningseries with Julia Child in the late 90s and has also had many of his own instructional series on public television. I’m talking of course, about Jacques Pepin. It is somewhat ironic however that this crazy televised cooking world that Jacques helped pioneer is so very far removed from the reality that he worked through and still lives in. Many young people are now growing up with a perception of the culinary world that is based on the highly edited and hyperbolized works of the entertainment industry. In the viewers’ minds, they see the kitchen as a place associated with glamour and sexiness. But if you have worked in basically any kitchen you know that glamour and sexiness make up a very small percentage of the components of the labor. If you don’t think that hard work is its own reward, you will burn out. Anthony Bourdain ’78, recently held a lengthy interview with Chef Jacques Pepin where they discussed topics as large as the changes of food culture over the years, to topics as what their favorite guilty pleasure snacks are. They spend a significant chunk of time discussing the rise of chefs as celebrated figures. Jacques referenced the earlier days of his career well before this was the case. Back in
the days when the chefs didn’t even dare step foot out of the kitchen. In those days being a chef meant taking part in a very old tradition based on workingclass individuals. It is a tradition with a rich history, but it was a blue-collar career nevertheless. This old way has basically been turned on its head. Now patrons hope that the chef will come out of the kitchen and chat with them about their meal. Jacques conceded that this was a good direction for things to be going, but that it could only go so far. At the end of the day, despite how deconstructed or artistic your food is, “we are still mashed potato-makers.” There is nothing wrong with being mashed potato-makers, but we need to make sure not to take ourselves or our trade too seriously. You can still love cooking and your craft completely without thinking of yourself as some kind of gift from above. Back in the televised world though, we seem to be leaning more towards selling chefs more as artistic saviors and less as humble tradesmen. Even aside from the despicable reality shows, well-made programs like Chef’s Table I feel need to be consumed with a grain of salt. It is just too pretty and dramatic to be a good representation of reality. Watching Dan Barber finish plating a dish in slow motion is good television. Watching one of his prep cooks trim a crate of radishes is not. But trimming the crate of radishes is perhaps more akin to actual kitchen life.
On the upside of this trend, the general public seems to be gaining awareness of the world of food around them. The hope is that this awareness of food will lead to a raft of positive changes: People will be more informed about the things they are consuming. People have an increased interest in getting back into the kitchen and cooking for themselves and buying less prepared foods. In general one can hope that this would lead to happier, healthier humans. On the downside of the trend however, there is the fear that it is simply that. A trend. We might end up with a host of young cooks going into the industry for the wrong reasons, only to drop out later when they discover it is not what they expected. I think this is a real concern that we ought to be on the defensive against. And what better way to defend against this mindset than embracing the fact that the world of cooking is indeed a bluecollar world. Take away the veil of high-budget productions and look to our friend Jacques Pepin for inspiration. It is an honest profession. And not everyone has the satisfaction of being able to label his or her career as such. Jacques never went into the industry because he thought he would get famous or because he saw sassy people with tattoos dramatically chopping vegetables. He did it because he loved food, as cliché as it might sound. We ought to look to programing like the kind he is involved with for inspiration moving forward. His series always present chefs more as technicians who love to snack rather than eccentric creators on a mission. In Jacques mind you must first be a master of technique before you can move on to be a creative force. Being a master of the technical side allows you flexibility within your craft which in turns allows for the creative to emerge. These days it seems like the focus is in reverse order. We celebrate the artistic side of the craft instead of the monotony and repetition that are the necessary growing pains behind it. It is certainly a good day an age to be a chef. We should enjoy the fact that the world doesn’t just expect cooks to be hidden in the kitchen keeping silent. But we cannot forget the notso-glorious roots that the craft is founded on, or the food will suffer. Without technique our higher aspirations will die in the compost bucket with the ugly omelets we failed to take the time to learn how to execute.
Time for a Change BY: Joseph Haffly, AOS Culinary
It is time for a change. Not a change of scenery or food, no, it is time for a change of attitude. Many who have worked in the restaurant industry have worked for an angry chef, and those who have not undoubtedly will. It is a kitchen tradition to scream at employees for making mistakes. It has become an expectation reinforced by reality shows and celebrity chefs. Our’s is a stressful and intense industry. We all yell in the kitchen; sometimes we yell out of anger and other times just to be heard over all the noise. But what about singling someone out and verbally abusing them? This is something that we expect to happen in kitchens. This is motivation to be better. However, no one wants to be broken down and degraded, so there are two questions to be asked. The first is why do we, the cooks and aspiring chefs, accept and put up with this behavior? The second question is why do chefs continue the tradition? It seems that cooks put up with it because they are told all the good chefs yell, so does that not answer both questions? We put up with it because many of the best chefs out there have hot tempers and will not hesitate to thoroughly explain what you did wrong. If the good chefs yell and scream does that mean it is okay? The short answer is no, but it is situational and debatable. We all take on tendencies of the people around us, so if the chef we work under and learn from yells and screams then we are likely pick up that habit and carry it into our careers. This turns the behavior into a cycle of abuse. How do we stop this cycle in its tracks? We cannot instantly change the entire dynamic of many kitchens and fix what Fox TV is shoving down people’s throats every week. This kind of change takes time and dedication. This is something that takes commitment and accountability. This change starts with us. The next generation of chefs need to step up and decide whether this behavior will be tolerated or not. It is not easy to stand up to a bully especially when they decide whether or not you get hours on the schedule. If we are worried about what will happen to us if we stand up for ourselves, maybe there is another way to eliminate this tradition. What do we do if we want this mentality in the kitchen to change? We have to actively keep from becoming a bully ourselves. We can be where it ends, but it will not be easy and it will not happen overnight.
Positive reinforcement can be an amazing tool. Now, what about those people who just do not care and do the least amount of work possible? Sure you can yell at them and maybe get them to do what you want. But if you have to yell at them every day and force them to act like they care, then maybe you are better off with9out them. Making your expectations clear in advance can save a lot of headaches. Even if you are not the head chef, if you are simply a line cook, you can still be supportive and encouraging to those around you. This is not to say that it will make them a better cook, but if you can make someone feel better for doing good work, then you are motivating them to continue that behavior. We have all heard it time and time again: “You decide the mood you are in.” We should remember that we also affect those around us. Sometimes you can just quietly help someone out. There is a tendency for people to seek out recognition or reward for their work. Why is the satisfaction of hard work and doing a good job no longer a good enough reward? Perhaps this is what enrages some chefs. We believe we are going to taste the food and immediately know what it pairs with and how it is best used. We see chefs on TV and in magazines and decide we want to be them. We look at where they are and sometimes ignore how they got there. But all this dazed and confused mentality and industry perspective aside, can we agree that the attitude of the kitchen needs some adjustment? It is not likely to happen anytime soon, but maybe if we look beyond instant results, we can start fixing things for those that follow. Perhaps if we look at how to better the environment for those that will follow, we can directly affect our own kitchens. By taking on this mentality, maybe we can start a trend that carries on throughout the industry. You may not think that it will make a difference, but if the average class has fifteen to twenty students, and at least half take on the responsibility of actively working towards a healthy kitchen dynamic, it might work. The intent of this is not to eliminate the camaraderie, general misbehavior, and sometimes brash humor of the kitchen. Most of us are here because we love to cook and want to stay in this industry indefinitely. Why not make it more enjoyable?
May 27, 2016
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Burnt Toast discusses all the things that don’t make it on to the Food52 website, but what Wilbur says they’re all talking about anyway. Wilbur is often joined by Food52 founders Amanda Hesser and Merrill Stubbs to talk about controversial cooking topics, food culture, and have the occasional good-spirited debate. Early on, Burnt Toast discussed things like what makes a good cookbook and how to properly do lunch. Head brewmaster at Brooklyn Brewery, Garrett Oliver, makes an appearance to talk all things beer. Wilbur invites Gena Hamshaw to talk all about her vegan cookbook, her favorite dishes, and why you should never try to go vegan. In a recent episode, Jonathan Gold of L.A. Food, Anonymity, and Thousand-Year Eggs is interviewed with long time L.A. restaurant critic and Pulitzer Prize-winning food writer. In this episode, Gold explains why he hates the word ethnic and adores tacos. He walks the listener through why he needed to eat at a single restaurant 17 times before reviewing it. He also discusses the uselessness of anonymity and the true role of the food critic. One of my favorite episodes of the show is, And the James Beard Award Goes To. This episode takes the listener on a tour of the James Beard Award process, following the journey of a cookbook from submission to award-winning. Wilbur talks with Andrea Weigl, chair of the JBFA books subcategory and Matt Sartwell, a JBFA judge and owner of Kitchen Arts & Letters, a cookbook store in New York City. Weigl explains that any cookbook can be submitted by anyone: publisher, author, even proud mom. The Foundation seeks to give everyone a fair chance. The books all arrive at her door and her department sorts through them, categorizes them, and sends them out across the country to one of 44 judges. From there that judge reads through the books, cooks at least two recipes from each, and ranks them accordingly. The judges are a mix of people from the food world: chefs, food bloggers, cookbook authors, food historians, etc. And, ideally, they don’t judge every year; although, Matt Sartwell is an exception, having judged 11 years running. At the beginning of this episode, Kenzie Wilbur lets her listeners know that, “we were a little closer to the process this year.” Burnt Toast was actually nominated for a James Beard Award for podcasting. She later
Features
admits that Burnt Toast didn’t win and I got curious about which podcast did. I found the list of winners online and that led me to the next show I want to talk about: Gravy. Produced by the Southern Foodways Alliance, Gravy is now a two-time James Beard Award-winning podcast that tells the stories of the changing American South through the foods we eat. This broadcast uses food as a means to delve into the culture of the South. The
host, Tina Antolini, navigates the listener along a road trip of stories, seeking to show how the states below the MasonDixon line accommodate new immigrants, adopt new traditions, and maintain the old ones. Episode 38, What’s Growing in Mossville?, tells the story of Mossville, Louisiana at a time when many oil refineries and power plants in the area were polluting the town and local estuary. This same small body of water was where many poor, local families were fishing for their nightly meals. Back then, the residents of Mossville didn’t think anything of it, it was just part of their daily lives to be woken in the middle of the night to evacuate their homes because a plant up the street blew up. They were accustomed to turning on the tap and letting the water run for a bit before filling their glasses. Mossville resident, Debra Ramirez put it all together one day in the 1980s. She describes it as her senses suddenly opening. She smelled something burning and checked with her neighbors to make sure there was nothing wrong with any of them; they were allowed to have trash piles back then, she recalls. But then it hits her: the plants, it must be coming from the power plants surrounding Mossville. And thus began an environmental battle that would last decades as the citizens of Mossville would fight for the health of their small town.
Admittedly, I have not yet heard every episode of this podcast, however the best I’ve heard so far is episode 16: Fried Chicken: A Complicated Comfort Food. This episode reaches into the history of fried chicken as it has long represented the American South. Reporter Lauren Ober takes her listeners from the Gordonsville, Virginia, Fried Chicken Festival to a soul food restaurant in Harlem to discover how fried chicken has been both both the embodiment of
photo courtesy: www.food52.com
empowerment and racism. As Ober walks back in time, we learn that during the Civil War, Gordonsville was a major stop on two train lines. In this time of trains before dining cars, the black women of Gordonsville were making money by selling their fried chicken, fried pies, and hot coffee to the passengers of the trains passing through. Upon the train’s arrival, these women, the Waiter Carriers as they called themselves, would come right up on the platform, carrying large platters on their heads. Through the open windows of the train they would exchange their fried goods for money, money that would later be spent to provide food for their families, or maybe even buy their own freedom. Later Ober discusses how U.S. advertising and popular culture shaped the public’s perception of the South and marketed it to sell to the North. Maybe the most well-known example of this is Aunt Jemima, a figure manufactured on Madison Avenue to make Southern food more appealing to a wider audience. As an avid podcast listener myself and a lover of so many things food, the discussions taking place in this slowly emerging form of food media are fantastic ones. They’re full of thoughtful, intellectual and purposeful commentary on topics that culinarians should have on their minds. Why don’t you, too, listen to a podcast and join the conversation.
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no matter how many hours they give to the restaurant, they will make a flat rate. Not only is this unfair to employees, but it is dishonest at best. The Department of Labor expects that the industry has plenty of options to avoid this regulation. Employers will increase salaries to avoid overtime compensation. The Department of Labor has stated that this is “an acceptable method of compliance.” In fact, this is the most widely expected outcome for cooks, chefs, and other salaried workers to control labor costs. According to Ryan Sutton of Eater, the Danny Meyer restaurant group is aiming to rapidly increase its salaries and pay scale above the overtime threshold. Another possibility lies in cutting hours. Employers might seek to cut hours of employees, possibly keeping them just below the 40-hour mark, or they will stringently control hours and cap them at 40 hours per week. The Department of Labor says that this will indirectly bump up pay and allow them to enjoy a better balance between work and their personal lives. Eater is, of course, skeptical of this outcome, and Ryan Sutton writes that “it sounds too good to be true” in the restaurant industry. The third option entails cutting the base salaries of employees, in hopes that overtime will make up for the pay-cut. All of this has the New York Times speculating that small businesses will be shifting en masse from salary to hourly pay, bypassing the overtime rule altogether and eliminating the benefit for workers completely. So what does the National
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Restaurant Association (NRA) say about all this? The Association has a long, bitter history of lobbying Congress against minimum wage increases. (Yes, the same NRA that represents one of the lowest paying industries in the country.) The NRA is, naturally, taking a bold stand against the regulation. Angelo Amador, the senior vice-president of labor and workforce policy for the National Restaurant Association, told Nation’s Restaurant News, “Restaurants operate on thin margins with low profits per employee and little room to absorb added costs. More than doubling the current minimum salary threshold for exempt employees, while automatically increasing salary levels, will harm restaurants and the employer community at large.” Labor activists have argued that previous regulations left employees working long hours for little pay, and that the overtime rule will significantly improve their quality of life. Rob Green, executive director of the National Council of Chain Restaurants has called the measure “extreme” and “outrageous”, according to Restaurant News. The National Retail Federation has estimated that the new changes will cost restaurants and small businesses $745 million to comply with the new rules. Many lobbyists will be working with Congress in hopes of combating the Obama Administration and the Department of Labor’s rule, but analysts are already betting that any new proposals will be vetoed.
The Roman Catholic Chapel of Our Lady of the Way (La Madonna della Strada)
Holy Mass Sundays 10:00AM & Noon Holy Days 12:00PM Chaplain: Father Marc Oliver chaplainua@gmail.com Office: 845-331-0436 Cellular: 845-594-9111
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LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of May 27, 2016 Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Vince Hong, Miles McMullen, Cameron Ridenour, Jennyfer Tjung, Min Ji Kang, Sara Ely, Kiana Justiniano Back Row: Chester Sheehan, Binyamin Mishaev, Josh Archer Denning III, Tinn Jenjesda, Garrett Womack, Nikolis LoCascio
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Anthony D’Eletto, Taehwan Rho, Dahee Hyun, Yonghoon Kim, Kayla Fitzgerald Back Row: Emily Michaels, Shahaan B. Davierwalla, Marcello Molteni, Jaquan Collins, Jessica Moehling
Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Nicholas Mullavey, Alayna Pottorff, Ji Hae Kim, Jae Koo Lee, Nicholas Rotondo, Andreas Proisl, Haley Osceola-Story Back Row: Craig Shields, Kevin Tenempaguay, Jeremiah C. Swain, Nickolas Campos, Sakina Fatehi, Alan Lee, Marissa Mazzella
Culinary Arts Group #4
Front Row: Min Hyuk Jang, Makayla Merring, Kevin Dinh, Rebecca Bruck, Kristina Brown, Mahogany Allure Williams Back Row: Min Chul Kang, Dayeon Yi, Jae Hong Park, Daniel Sandoval, Rodney Harvey, Anthony Hudak III
Baking & Pastry Arts
Front Row: Jessica McLarrin, Jessica Holliday, Sungae Jung, Kiah Ward, Justine Handrahan, Audrey Lee, Gina Martino, Marielle Martin Back Row: Alexandra Markowich, Angela Pace, Morgan Moss, Christina Rasmussen, Dana Maday, Emili Perkins, Emily Carter, Rachel Connelly, Samantha Mele
May 27, 2016
Graduation
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AOS Graduation Speaker: Amanda Cohen BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor
Chef and Owner of Dirt Candy
photo courtesy: Leslie Jennings
Amanda Cohen is the chef and owner of Dirt Candy, the awardwinning vegetable restaurant located on New York City’s Lower East Side. Dirt Candy was the first vegetable-focused restaurant in the city and the leader of the vegetable-forward movement. The restaurant’s original location had only 18 seats and was open for six years, during which time it became the first vegetarian restaurant in 17 years to receive two stars from The New York Times, was recognized by the Michelin Guide five years in a row, and won accolades from Gourmet, the Village Voice, and many other publications. Its new location, with nearly five times the space as the original, opened in 2015 and was the first restaurant in the city to eliminate tipping and share profits with its employees. Born in Ottawa and raised in Toronto, Canada, Chef Cohen moved to New York to study at New York University’s
College of Arts and Sciences. After graduating, she lived and worked in Hong Kong with her now-husband Grady Hendrix for nearly two years, sampling the variety of amazing vegetarian food there. Realizing that she could combine her love of travel with her love of cooking for a career, she returned to New York and enrolled at the Natural Gourmet Institute. After completing her studies, Chef Cohen worked as a chef’s teaching assistant at vegan restaurant Angelica’s Kitchen, interned in the pastry kitchen of Bobby Flay’s Mesa Grill, and worked as a baker in the production kitchen of Blanche’s Organic Café. She later cooked at a summer camp, at DinerBar in East Harlem, and for TeaNY, musician Moby’s Lower East Side vegan teahouse. Chef Cohen served as executive sous chef at raw food restaurant Pure Food and Wine, and then moved on to an executive chef position at Heirloom, which
won the Time Out New York Reader’s Choice Award for Best Vegetarian Restaurant. In 2008, she opened the original Dirt Candy. Widely recognized for her achievements, Chef Cohen was named to the Nation’s Restaurant News 2016 Power List, earned a semifinalist nod for Best Chef NYC from the James Beard Foundation in 2014, and was honored as one of Mother Nature Network’s 40 Chefs Under 40 in 2010. In 2009, she won the Sustainability Award from StarChefs.com. Chef Cohen was the first vegetarian chef to compete on Iron Chef America and her comic book cookbook, Dirt Candy: A Cookbook, is the first graphic novel cookbook to be published in North America. She serves as a member of the Menus of Change Sustainable Business Leadership Council at The Culinary Institute of America.
Mistakes and Retractions
In the last issue of La Papillote, we ran an article titled Sexual Assault Awareness. A large part of the focus involved how the school responds when these issues arise. There are several corrections we would like to note Correction I: My interview was conducted with Dr. Kathy Merget, Associate Vice President & Dean of Student Affairs. Correction II: The third question of the interview was phrased, “Do you think the administrative punishments for sexual misconduct is balanced as compared to how drug offenses or academic offenses are reprimanded?” The correct word choice would have been, “Do you think the administrative sanctions for sexual misconduct is balanced as compared to how drug offenses or academic offenses are reprimanded?” Correction III: The paragraph that elaborated on the answer to this third question incorrectly stated that law enforcement is always brought in when these cases occur. The correction is that the reporter is given the option to get law enforcement involved, though it is not required. The school strongly encourages the involvement of law enforcement and will collaborate with them in the form of an internal investigation, but it is not an automatic part of the response. Correction IV: In the paragraph below the fifth question it is stated, “It is also important to note that these emails are sent prior to any investigation taking place.” It should read as, “It is important to note that these emails will be sent in the timeliest manner.”
Library Learning Conrad N. Hilton Commons: Library Monday-Thursday: 7:00am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Friday: 7:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Campus Store Video Center Hours: Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00am10:00pm 6:00pm Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm
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LA PAPILLOTE
Campus
Humans of the CIA: Asher Chong
BY: Joseph Haffly, AOS Culinary
What led you to the CIA? “I was living in Singapore where I was working in a restaurant, I have been in restaurants for 15 or so years, I knew that I needed better training. I did a lot of research on the different schools around the world and I came to the conclusion that the CIA was the best option. I had heard about the school from different people, and from books and movies too, but it wasn’t until I really looked at it that I knew I wanted to go. I read about a lot of really great chefs that came from here and thought that I should follow the steps they took.” Why did you choose the BPS program? “I feel that a Bachelor’s degree is necessary for what I want to do. I am pursuing a concentration in wines so that I can have a good knowledge base to further expand and study. I never expected to pursue something like wine. I always saw myself as a kitchen worker and never thought twice about working front of the house. At some point during my time at the CIA I realized that I really enjoy meeting new people and getting to know them.” What is it you want to do upon graduation?
“I have no specific restaurants or countries I want to work in. I am very interested in French wines, so getting to go there would be really cool. I enjoy bringing happiness to people. I want to offer a global experience at the table to customers through food and wine. I am in the hospitality industry and my goal is to make people happy so I figure that food and wine is a great way to bring someone joy. I want to teach people about the wine by sharing stories. I want to tell them about the vineyards and the people so that they can feel like they have been there before. I want to create an experience where the guest uses all 5 sense during their meal. I think this is a very important factor for people enjoying a meal. If they experience it in as many ways as possible then it might be more enjoyable. My ultimate goal is making them happy and making them happy makes me happy. This is a win-win situation for me and I love it.” What would you tell any students considering this BPS? “Come in with an open mind. Having a love for wine is a must, even if you don’t have much industry experience you have to love wine and want to
know everything about it. You have to always be willing to learn about anything regarding this industry, not just wine. This degree is a learning intensive and information heavy choice. You will never stop learning in this degree, there is always something new coming up. There is so much wine out there, so many different kinds of grapes, and it is so exciting. If you want to keep up with the flow of knowledge you have to keep up on your reading. Read the text book, magazines, even maps of the different wine regions of all the different countries that are major wine producers. Exploring the subject of wine is so helpful. Just devote as much time to it as you can. I have learned that if you stay humble you can learn from everyone, not just the greats. I have been tutoring a friend in wines and so far I can see that there are changes in the wines class since I took it. I am learning new things about wine from helping a friend and I think that is amazing.” I would like to step back from the interview and explain why I chose Asher. I came to this school knowing only one person. I was moving somewhere entirely new and unknown to
One Step Begins a Journey
me. I started working on campus within the first two months and Asher was one of the people I met through work. He has been very kind and welcoming to me and has helped me to feel comfortable and at home here at the CIA. From when I first met
him to when he sat down for this interview he as always been kind and genuinely interested. I look forward to hearing of the things he achieves and the places he goes. I am glad that I can call him a friend.
As a hired tour guide and BPS student Asher keeps busy by playing softball. photo courtesy: Arianna Weiler
BY: Lynnardo Holland, AOS Culinary
“A journey of a thousand miles begins with one step”- Lao Tzu. Fitness is not about working out January 2 through January 20 of every year. It is a journey that takes perseverance. It is a journey where you have to realize that you are making progress everyday. You are progressing everyday the decision is made to exercise and eat healthy. You have to keep in mind that you are going forward even if someone beside you is doing twice the amount of work in the gym. You have to have your mental mise en place set. A person in the pursuit of fitness in any capacity needs to realize that fitness isn’t about impressing others but more so improving yourself for you. If there is any competition going on it should be within yourself. Realize that you are doing more than the person who made the decision to sit on the couch. However, if that person happens to be your friend then, motivating that person to join you is a good way to start the fitness lifestyle. A journey is always more enjoyable when company is around. Therefore, exercising with a friend or gym partner is a great way to
go about things. Exercising in a group can help curb any embarrassment factor that some people may have when first starting to exercise. It is hard to purposefully showcase yourself struggling; but with a friend it can become oddly endearing. A daily struggle is a good way to describe the journey of fitness. The journey consists of getting your heart rate and muscles to a point where you are sweating, out of breath, and making Shrek like faces while attempting to finish the task at hand. Anyone who has had a proper leg day knows what it feels like to walk to your car imitating a newborn fawn. They also know what it feels like the next morning when you don’t want to go to the gym. A fitness buddy also adds some accountability to the situation. It is much easier to let down a gym, swimming pool, or track than your friend. A track isn’t going to verbalize that you should be running and spending time with it. However your friend is most likely going to say something to you if you are a no show. In addition to that missing scheduled appointments with a friend is typically frowned upon
in most circles. So having a fitness buddy can help you feel more comfortable in a setting you aren’t used to and help you stay dedicated. Now, what if your friends are stone cold set on sitting on the couch. Game of Thrones is back on so you can’t really blame them, right? So, if you’re stuck without fitness buddies then you shouldn’t fret. There are ways around this and still have a successful start in the journey of fitness. There are fitness clubs, hiking clubs, dance studios, yoga classes, and martial arts gyms all over the Hudson Valley. We have classes here on campus at the gym that you can partake in and get some guidance. Those classes can also add accountability as well. Furthermore, you are bound
to make new friends in those classes. It could be possible that you find a fitness buddy in one of those classes. If you don’t want to take any classes, don’t want to struggle in public, or don’t have any friends that want to exercise you can still get your fitness journey started. There are countless tips and regimens online that you can draw from. There are a lot of books in the world written by those who have started a fitness journey that you could get workout plans and ideas from as well. The information is out there and living in this day and age makes it all the more easier to access that information. There are a few key points to take in to consideration when you are going to start a work out plan. You have to make
photo courtesy: vasafitness.com
sure that you really want to get it done. I’m saying that you have to make it a commitment. It has to be something that you do daily or be conscious about. It’ s a lot like anything else in life. You are going to get out what you put in and the gym will definitely give you the results that you deserve. There won’t be a grade school teacher putting a curve on your results to help you out. When you look in the mirror, run that mile, swim those laps your efforts will be there to show you what you’ve earned. It’s a place where excuses aren’t accepted and a lack of dedication will surely be your downfall. It reminds me of devotion required to become a good cook and eventually chef.