July 8, 2016
La
Volume 37, No. 09
Papillote
Wine in the Hudson Valley
BY: Byron Halliburton, AOS Culinary
Across the world, wine is important. The oldest discovered winery is more than 5000 years old, and wine has been transported and enjoyed throughout history. It has been a symbol for trade, religion and health, and the ancient Greeks even named a god of wine—Dionysus. When Rome conquered the world, they brought wine to Europe along with their own god—Bacchus, the namesake of The Culinary Institute of America’s wine club. The Roman adoption of Catholicism brought European wine grapes to Mexico and Brazil, and from there into the entire New World. This expansion has brought wine to every continent except Antarctica. It is evident that wine has a vast and important history, particularly in Europe. But
The cellars at Brotherhood Winery in Washingtonville, NY.
what about wine production in the United States? In early October, 1811, Thomas Jefferson, a Virginia resident wrote, “Wine being among the earliest luxuries in which we indulge ourselves, it is desirable it
photo courtesy:Brotherhood-winery.com
should be made here and we have every soil, aspect & climate of the best wine countries”. From that point forward, the United States started producing world class wine, and the only hiccup was the
failed experiment of prohibition. Why does this matter to a student of The Culinary Institute of America’s Hyde Park campus? New York was among the first states to grow grapes and produce
lead to frustration among the students. Why, where alcohol is readily available in classes, is it restricted otherwise? The alcohol policy is strict; there is no denying that. Looking up the full policy, a 25-page document, is a bit overwhelming. Aiming the focus on what is allowed in the residence halls; it states, “Excessive amounts of alcohol are not permitted in student residence hall rooms (not to exceed a dozen 12-ounce containers of beer or pre-mixed beverage alcohol (totaling 144 oz), or two 750ml bottles of wine, or one-fifth of distilled alcohol per assigned resident of legal drinking age. Beer or other Alcohol-related drinking games (e.g., beer pong, funneling, and flip cups) are strictly prohibited anywhere on campus. Also prohibited are “allyou-can-drink” activities.” (Alcohol policy pg 5). To many students, this puts a
damper on the college experience. One student said, “The students are (counter-intuitively) encouraged to drink more, by trying to be within the policy’s limits.” Wine Studies is a three-week intensive course that includes daily tastings averaging 10 wines. Students are encouraged to continue tasting different wines to begin to develop their palate. Students in the Mixology class learn and come up with drink combinations with different liquors. The policy makes it hard to have a wine or mixology tasting in the residence halls. Parties of almost any size are strongly discouraged and or immediately broken up when found and thus the ability to over indulge is severely limited on campus. The students are dedicated and passionate about what they do here: one has to be to survive. The passion for food spills over into drinks as well. The industry
Campus Drinking-The Big Picture
wine—a tradition which serves as a foundation for today’s strong growth. The nation’s oldest continuously operated winery is in the Hudson River region. Brotherhood Winery is only 35 miles southwest of CIA’s Hyde Park campus in Washingtonville, NY. For only $10, visitors can tour and taste their wines made from grapes sourced from across the state. The winery is open from 11AM – 5PM Friday to Sunday during the winter months, and every day from April to December. From Riesling and Chardonnay to Bordeaux and Burgundy blends, Brotherhood Winery should be on the list of must-see wineries for the CIA student. Other opportunities exist to experience New York wines that are made from grapes that are perhaps unfamiliar. Native
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BY: Anna Ungricht, BPS Culinary Science
The Culinary Institute of America is quite a unique school. Our ‘freshman’ and ‘sophomore’ students have the same classes, follow the same schedule and understand the demands that other students are experiencing. The industry that we have chosen comes with a few dark sides, according to Chris Macias, veteran food journalist, of the Nosh Pit the culinary industry has the highest alcoholism and drug abuse in any industry. Why is this? Hot and overcrowded kitchens, demanding chefs, and very long hours, leads to a highstress environment. For most, a hard drink at the end of the night is a great way to de-stress after a long shift. However, for some, a drink quickly leads to two drinks or more, which is commonly done on a nightly basis. In addition to restaurant industry professionals, another
group experiencing rates of alcohol abuse is college students. To most, the college experience isn’t fully complete without a huge kegger, including drinking games, overindulgence, and bad decisions. In a recent NIAAA national survey almost 60 percent of college students ages 18-22, drank alcohol, and 2 out of 3 of those engaged in binge drinking. The CIA faces the challeging equation of possible future alcohol abuse, which is indeed rampant in the industry along with drinking problems of college. Unlike many other colleges, there are required classes that include the use of alcohol, learning all about it, how to taste, smell, cook, and brew it. Outside of class, though, alcohol is often treated without the respect and appreciation students are taught. Students are only allowed a small amount of alcohol in their rooms and are restricted to where they can drink. The restrictions
“From the Editor’s Desk”
“Campus Drinking”
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CENTER SPREAD
“Blended Burger Bash” & “Summer Cocktails”
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BACK PAGE
as a whole views alcohol just a bit differently than most of the mainstream society; it is seen as an ingredient, accompaniment, and a chance to learn about different cultures. Another common frustration from students that is related to the different view of alcohol by those in the food/ beverage industry is related to the ability to practice skills and techniques. One student said, “liquor, wine, and beer are intertwined with the food service and hospitality industry …I feel like the students are more mature and focused than other college students. Yet the policies here are overly strict.” This comment echoes the feelings that the shared appreciation and respect for alcohol as an ingredient should be considered when creating an alcohol policy for residential students. A lot of the rules associated
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“Graduation”
“A Moment with a Brew Master”
LA PAPILLOTE
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Editorial
Papillote
THE NEWSPAPER OF THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA SINCE 1979
En
July 8, 2016
PUBLISHER The Student Affairs Division EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Kevin J. Markey LAYOUT EDITOR Thiana Anderson ADVERTISING MANAGER Sue Haug CONTRIBUTORS Anna Ungricht Joseph Haffly Kaitlin Egloff Makena Wininger Shelly Loveland Leslie Jennings Kevin Markey Matt Ivins
From the Editor’s Desk
Dave Whalen Haylee Stephens Thiana Anderson Lauren Byrne
COMPACT
La Papillote, the Newspaper of the Culinary Institute of America since 1979, is dedicated to respecting the mission, history and values of the college. Our primary purpose is to report the news of the institution to the students and other members of the campus community. We examine contemporary issues of the food service and hospitality industries to inform, challenge and develop the minds of students as they aspire to leadership roles in their chosen profession. We reflect the diverse views of the student body and provide a forum for civil discussion. Above all else, in our reporting and features, we strive to be accurate, fair, unbiased and free from distortion. Whenever we portray someone in a negative light or accuse a party of wrongdoing, we will make a real effort to obtain and print a response from that subject in the same issue. We will not plagiarize. Articles and features are expected to be independent assessments on a topic by an individual author. The views expressed are those of the author’s alone. They do not necessarily represent the views or opinions of La Papillote or its staff, nor do they represent the views or opinions of The Culinary Institute of America, or any entity of, or affiliated with the college.
July 8th, 2016
Fellow Students,
As summer vacation nears and the impending fall semester looms I am beginning to realize how quickly this experience is passing by. While I write this I am relaxing in sunny California on vacation, but I know that there is much work to be done, actually I don’t think it ever ends. Between searching for post bachelors jobs and sipping rosé at three o’clock in the afternoon I am quite busy. Okay, maybe I am not that busy, but I am a firm believer in moderation. And I am going to vacation as moderately as possible. Having been on campus at this time last year, I remember getting out of class early in the afternoon and not being drawn to stay in my room and work on homework, but rather be out enjoying the sunshine with friends. And I did do my fair share on enjoying the sunshine, but I kept my head down and made sure what needed to be done was accomplished as well. I know you all will also find the moderate place between summer and school. In three weeks you’ll be free to take a breath, a short one, and enjoy a little vacation too. Keep pressing on future leaders of the food industry and it will all pay off soon. Sláinte, Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
FOOD REVIEW POLICY
As a valuable part of our content, La Papillote offers restaurant reviews. It is in the best interest of our readership to be honest, accurate and fair in providing information and judgment on these establishments. Reviews will reflect the writer’s opinions about the menu, atmosphere and service. Whenever possible, reviews will be conducted with complete anonymity. Permission from the restaurants will not be secured prior. All issues of La Papillote are available online, therefore, the critiqued restaurants, along with the public, can view editions at anytime on the web.
EDITORIAL POLICY
La Papillote welcomes submissions of work from students, chefs and outside professionals. The decision to print is based on the following criteria: quality of content, value of content to our readers, quality of writing, originality, objectivity, layout, and verifiability. Besides the Editor, there are two Copy Editors who read over submitted articles. Major changes will be reported to writers before the issue goes out. However, any other changes that need to be edited close to the deadline may or may not be forwarded to writers. This is due to the fact of lack of time. It is asked for writers to trust the Editor’s decision at this point during layout. Please direct all submissions to: Kevin Markey, Editor-In-Chief at lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com.
LETTERS POLICY
Letters to the Editor may not exceed 250 words and they should be exclusive to La Papillote. In selecting letters, the editors try to present a balance of views. We reserve the right to edit for space, clarity, civility and accuracy, and will send you the edited version before publication. If your letter is selected, we will try to reach you in necessary cases to verify the letter’s authenticity, to clarify your motivation, to clarify your relation to the subject for our readers or to verify facts or sources. Letters to the Editor may be sent to lapapillote.culinary@gmail.com with “Letter to the Editor - For Publication” in the subject line. Please include your phone number.
Kevin J. Markey Editor-in-Chief
Thiana Anderson Layout Editor
Makena Winniger Copy Editor
Lauren Byrne Social Media Editor
Jennifer Dunger Photographer
Hanna Krilov Puzzle Editor
NOTICE OF NON-DISCRIMINATION
The Culinary Institute of America (CIA) is an Equal Opportunity Employer committed to the principle of equal opportunity in education and employment. The CIA does not discriminate against individuals on the basis of race, color, sex, sexual orientation, gender identity, religion, disability, age, genetic information, marital status, veteran status, ancestry, national or ethnic origin, or any other protected group or classification under federal or state laws. The following persons have been designated to handle inquiries regarding the non-discrimination policies: Civil Rights Compliance Officers Joe Morano HR Director-Faculty Relations
Maura A. King Director-Compliance
Title IX and Age Discrimination
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Office: Roth Hall Room S324
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July 8, 2016
Campus
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SGA Mobile App Launch
Cont’d from front
BY: Haylee Stephens, SGA Public Relations Manager
Binge drinking takes a toll on you even the day after.
with the alcohol policy are campus specific to preventing binge drinking, such as public consumption, open containers, beer kegs, excessive amounts, and drinking games. Binge drinking, which is drinking until blood alcohol concentrations reach .08 g/dL is a major issue facing almost every college regardless of their academic focus. Each year thousands of students are either taken to the hospital, die, or experience either physical or sexual assault related to alcohol. Students also face academic and school consequences for the abuse of alcohol. Per the campus alcohol policy, the consequences of alcohol violations vary depending on age and the specific violation. For students over 21, if found with excessive alcohol, including empty containers, is written up and may get demerits. If you are transported to the hospital, it is an automatic six demerits; participating in or being in the presence of drinking games can, in some cases, carry 6 demerits as well. For a student under 21 years, if you are found in the presence of alcohol, the first time is a written warning, the second time is community service. If
photo courtesy: cdanews.com
you are found drinking alcohol, it is three demerits, or given the chance to take a class called Choices. Taking the class gets rid of the demerits, but is a one time chance. The program, Choices, meets once a month. The classes are completely confidential. It is a chance for students to discuss their choices about alcohol. Also discussed in the class are the effects of alcohol on the body, what a typical drink is, and what to possibly do in the future when faced with alcohol consumption decisions. The students who participate in the program Choices tend not have any more violations in the future. The Culinary Institute of America, surprisingly enough, experiences far fewer alcohol incidents each year than neighboring schools. Between June 2015 and May 2016, there were 100 conduct violations, of those 100 80 were alcohol related, and only five of those were transported to the hospital. Those stats are pretty good considering, that the student body is in constant rotation, and the campus has about 2500 students at any one time The CIA has built a reputation off of professionalism. Students and professors alike are expected to promote this in classes, the
halls, and in personal conduct. The alcohol policy reflects the professionalism. But it is more than that. Our industry suffers from high rates of alcohol and drug abuse which could be related to the demand of our chosen profession. Chefs have high standards that they set for themselves and others, and expect to achieve them. When those expectations are not met by yourself, or others, it can be hard to deal with emotionally. Alcohol and drugs are only one way to forget the pain and stress that result from a long day in the kitchen. This is where the campus alcohol policy comes in; to prevent future industry leaders from turning to alcohol as the sole way of relieving stress after a tough day. This reliance on alcohol and drugs to deal with emotional distress can ruin lives. The alcohol policy may be strict, but in the end, it is attempting to change the culinary industry for generations to come. Thank you to: Dr. James Manley, Associate Dean Dennis Macheska, and Area Coordinator Ryan Bulter, for supplying information for this article.
The Roman Catholic Chapel of Our Lady of the Way (La Madonna della Strada)
Holy Mass
Chaplain: Father Marc Oliver chaplainua@gmail.com
Office: 845-331-0436 Cellular: 845-594-9111
Sundays 10:00 AM & Noon Holy Days 12:00 PM
Hyde Park, NY—The Student Government Association is extremely excited to announce the launch of the official CIA Student Government and Clubs/ Organizations mobile app. The SGA app officially launched on June 21st, and marks a real victory for the current SGA Board. Much credit is due to the hard work of the previous Student Government President Randy Boden, and Vice President Felicia Gane both of whom are responsible for starting the conversation about bringing the app to the Hyde Park campus. The current SGA Board quickly adopted the mobile app as a top priority on the agenda to accomplish prior to summer break, and they have delivered. Matt Ivins, Coordinator-Student Organizations & Government, said “I am very proud of SGA for recognizing the need for an improved mode of communicating SGA and club activities and taking real steps to bring forward the necessary change.” When asked for some of the key features of the new mobile app, Ivins said “The app has a calendar of events that SGA, Club and other important events will featured on. Additionally, the app will allow for more transparency between what SGA is working on ‘behind the scenes’ and letting the student body know that they are being represented well.” Overall, the
Screenshot of the SGA Mobile App. photo courtesy: Matt Ivins
SGA looks forward to keeping the students of the Hyde Park campus better informed in all aspects of campus life. The Student Government Association encourages all students to download the app and see what’s going on. It is currently available, for free, in both the App Store (for iOS) and the Google Play Store (for Android); just search for “CIA Student Government.” In an effort to meet the evolving needs of the student body, the SGA encourages any student to attend a Public Meeting to give feedback on the app, or just contact your Senator or Representative.
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LA PAPILLOTE
Features
cont’d from front
Cabernet Franc grapes growing at the Millbrook Winery. photo courtesy: www.winecountrygetaways.com
grapes grew abundantly in North America before the Europeans brought the Vitis Vinifera varietals that are so well-known today. We have grapes varieties like Catawba, Baco Noir, Norton and Muscadine and early American settlers made wine from them all. Today, New York wineries in the Finger Lakes and western New York are still making wines from these native varietals. Here in the Hudson River region, you can find wines made from hybrids of native American grapes and European varietals. Clinton Vineyards, located only 15 miles northeast of campus, specializes in Seyval Blanc, a hybrid varietal.
They produce dry still wines, sparkling, and even dessert wines from this unique varietal. Seyval Blanc is often touted as having a flavor profile somewhere between Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. It pairs well with poultry and fish dishes; consider a salmon, avocado and grapefruit salad. Clinton Vineyards is open for visitors from 1PM – 5PM on Saturdays and Sundays and offers tastings of their wines for around $15. Perhaps the most well-known Hudson River region winery is Millbrook Vineyards & Winery located only 19 miles northeast of campus. Millbrook was the first
vineyard in the Hudson River region dedicated exclusively to the production of vinifera grapes including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Riesling and an Italian grape varietal called Tocai Friulano. It has been voted “best winery” in the Hudson Valley for 20 consecutive years. The winery is open for guided tours and tastings of their award-winning wines daily from 12PM – 5PM for $15. When you visit, be sure to say hello to Tim Gonzales, Millbrook’s tasting room manager. Tim graduated from the CIA and designs recipes that pair particularly well with Millbrook’s wines. A favorite pairing is a Balsamic and Herb Roasted Pork Tenderloin with Millbrook’s Pinot Noir, or a Brulee Cheesecake with their 2014 Late Harvest Riesling. Byron Halliburton is a student at The Culinary Institute of America’s Hyde Park Campus and officer in the Bacchus Wine Society. He is a Certified Sommelier with the Court of Master Sommeliers and has earned a Level 2 award with Merit from the Wine and Spirit Education Trust
Suds, Sunshine & Sanity
BY: Kevin Markey, Editor-in-Chief
The sun is shining and the birds are chirping and yet, everyone is inside watching Netflix. And a lot of students over the age of 21 are doing so while enjoying an alcoholic beverage. I can’t give you a percentage of students here at the Culinary that drink alcohol. I don’t have one. I can’t tell you how many students here abuse certain substances, there isn’t a poll for that. And, I can’t tell you there have been numerous studies on the effects of consuming alcohol in the presence of other people versus alone, but that is only because I couldn’t find one. What I can tell you is that there are only three places on campus that you may consume alcohol; in your dorm room, in The Egg, and in one of the restaurants. You cannot drink in the gazebos, you cannot drink on the patio outside of The Egg, and you certainly cannot go down to the soccer field, the ruins, or the river to drink. Whether these restrictions are based on student safety or a certain perception of student well-being, is up for debate. I propose that there should be an outdoor location on campus that students of age can consume alcohol. Even when I was stationed overseas on a Marine Corps installation there were ‘beer gardens.’ A place where people could gather on a Saturday
photo courtesy: photos.visitphilly.com
afternoon, toss a few steaks on the grill and throw a few back. It was just a small glimmer of normality in a place where every action is decided for you. Sounds familiar doesn’t it? By no means were these locations without incident, however. While we culinary folk hold a bit of a past for drinking, we bare nothing in comparison to the Armed Forces folks. It is no competition and no record to be proud of, believe me, but with stricter regulations than that of the ones in the military, it is possible to keep violations of said location to a minimum. Say for instance; the location was only open for alcoholic consumption during daylight. Or from
12pm-12am. Say that location was placed somewhere where Campus Safety could easily drive by it during their rounds. And that it was written in the rules that if someone underage was caught drinking there it would be a serious offense for all parties involved. With as many stipulations as you can possibly throw at this proposal, it is still a good idea. Allowing the students somewhere on campus where they can act like adults and consume alcohol in the open fresh air, with the sun warming their faces, the beer keeping them cool, and the company of other hard working adults to keep them sane.
Red, White and Burgers
BY: David Whalen, Associate Dean - Student Activities, Recreation & Athletics
Congratulations to The Belchers for winning the first ever Blended Burger Bash. photo courtesy: Alexa Grosskreuz
This past weekend, under wonderful summer weather, the Office of Student Activities, Recreation & Athletics and the Office of Residence Life hosted our annual red, white and blue patriotic celebration; Stars & Stripes Weekend. Thursday started off with a hot dog eating contest on the patio at The Egg, sponsored by our SPICE student programming board. Followed by a movie and barbecue on Friday hosted by the Black Culinary Society student organization. Saturday brought our annual salute to our military veterans, along with a terrific fireworks display over the Hudson River and a student dance on Anton Plaza (actually some restaurant patrons had a dance or two as well!). And then the culmination .... burger nirvana with our first Blended Burger Bash, coupled with our annual Block Party on the athletic field on Sunday
afternoon. The Burger Bash was a cooperative event with our Education Division friends (thanks to Greg Drescher, Brendan Walsh, Bruce Mattel, Paul Dellerose and Bryan Tobias) with the Mushroom Council providing support, guidance and funding. The embedded goal was to show how mushrooms blended with ground beef (or other main ingredients) can make a burger healthier, all the while creating a very tasty profile. Additionally, other sponsors assisted with finances as well as gift-in-kind donations thanks to the efforts of our Advancement team here in Hyde Park (Lee Ellen Hayes and Jessica Hasapis). At the helm of the entire weekend was our fantastic Coordinator - Student Activities Alexa Grosskreuz and colleague Ryan Butler, the Senior Area Coordinator in Residence Life. The winning team (amongst
July 8, 2016
Features
Chef’s Table Review
Summer Cocktails
BY: Kaitlin Egloff, BPS Culinary Science
Bridging the gap between dry, crisp, and refreshing, as well as sweet enough to be drinkable, the same characteristics you might search for in a “patio-pounder” wine, are exactly the attributes that characterize a good summer cocktail. A high enough water content to keep you hydrated, yet just enough booze to feel the buzz, are also important features. Wine can be fussy or temperamental due to its temperature sensitivity. Contrarily, beers are often much too heavy, thus a refreshingly light mixed drink is the perfect solution to quench one’s thirst. Pastry chefs often look to “savory” items such as herbs and spices to liven up desserts. In fact, we are downright sick of flavor pairings such as the all-too-familiar peanut butter and chocolate or boring vanilla anything. Desserts and cocktails alike get extraordinarily more interesting with a twist of the unexpected whether it be an herb, spice, or other seasoning; it can bring new life to the familiar fruity flavors we love. This was inspired by a cocktail I had a few months back, which included pineapple juice, jalapenos, herbaceous bitters, and a few other ingredients to round things out. The heat in the back of my throat was much more of a pleasant burn than that of alcohol. And although it was a bit much when paired with my delicate pasta on a rainy spring night, I imagined myself sipping it on a hot summer evening. Fruit-laden drinks are a festive way to celebrate summer’s bounty or perhaps utilize produce that’s not quite ideal for eating. Overly sweet drinks, such as piña coladas, quickly cause a sugar headache and become sickeningly saccharine in the heat of summer, but if done correctly, fruits provide not only sweetness, but enough acid to temper it to a crave-able level. Spices, herbs, and flavors such as smoke, enhance and revamp the way that we perceive familiar flavors. Three cocktail ideas which embrace this sweet and savory mashup are based on classical summery drinks:
Pineapple & Pink Peppercorn Daiguiri
Blackberry-Sage Gin and Tonic
Blackberry-Sage Gin and Tonic Blackberries don’t receive the same notoriety as their other berry counterparts, but their jammy aroma and complex flavor pair well with the woodsy herbaceous-ness of sage. Tonic water cuts the sweetness. 1.5 oz. Gin ½ cup blackberries 1.5 oz. sage simple syrup as needed, Tonic water as needed, Ice garnish with blackberries Muddle blackberries and add simple syrup. Shake with gin and ice. Strain into highball glass and finish with tonic water. Garnish with blackberries. *Sage Simple Syrup: Steep 1 cup of sage in 2 cup of simple syrup for 15 minutes. Alternatively, use raspberries and lemon verbena. Pineapple & Pink Peppercorn Daiquiri Pink peppercorns are actually not a part of the pepper family. In fact, they are the dried berries of the Brazilian and Peruvian varieties of a pepper tree. Their floral character and warm heat compliment the tangy pineapple. Many flavor components are alcohol soluble, thus intense flavors are extracted, and a potent and peppery spirit is created. Thankfully, this daiquiri is not the overly sweet frozen drink you
photo courtesy: Google Images
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BY: Lauren Byrne, AOS Culinary
The first time I saw Chef’s Table, the first season was inconspicuously placed in my Netflix queue as something in which I might be interested. There were no advertisements, no reviews and I had never heard of it before. It was just a single picture of a sea urchin among the black background and the title placed for me. It was Sunday, I was bored and so I ventured. What unfolded in the next hour was a beautiful, personal, food driven documentary about Massimo Bottura, the famed Executive Chef photo courtesy: Google Images of Osteria Natalia in Moderna, may be used to slurping on the Italy (which is now rated as the deck of a cruise ship. #1 best restaurant in the world according to San Pelligrino’s 2 oz. pink peppercorn rum 50 Best List). I was hooked and 2 oz. pineapple juice could not stop watching until the 2 tablespoons lime juice very last episode was over. I was 2 teaspoons sugar starving for more but it would be As needed, ice another year until that thirst was quenched. Quenched it was as Shake all ingredients with I am happy to report the second ice. Strain into cocktail glass. season delivered. Garnish with pink peppercorns or If you haven’t caught the second pineapple wedge. season of Chef’s Table you *To make pink peppercorn are behind the game big time. infused rum add 2.5 tablespoons David Gelb, of Jiro Dreams of of lightly crushed pink Sushi fame, delivers the same peppercorns to 1 750 mL bottle of romantic and inspiring episodes white rum. Let steep for 7 days, he produced the first time around. shaking occasionally. In each episode of Season 2 Alternatively, make black pepper which premiered on May 27, infused vodka and substitute he focuses on one particular strawberry juice for pineapple chef, their restaurant and their juice. backstory. Although I am not privy to Gelb’s selection process, Smoky Paloma the chefs who are chosen usually top San Pelligrino’s 50 best list Inspired by one of my favorite or are highly ranked in some breakfasts: bruléed grapefruit. other capacity. For example, The tart grapefruit contrasts Grant Achatz was ranked 26 on against smoky salt and mezcal in the 50 Best lists at the time the a surprisingly refreshing Mexican second season came out and Ana cocktail. Mezcal, which originates Ros who wasn’t listed on San in Oaxaca, Mexico is crafted Pelligrino’s 50 Best list but is from the heart of the agave plant. listed under the Diner Club 50 It is smoked in underground pits Best Restaurants in the world. for two to three days; smoked salt Each episode is an opportunity further reinforces the smokiness for the viewer to get a rare look of this elixir. Although the history of Paloma is speculated, it is agreed upon that in Mexico it is the most popular cocktail made with Tequila. As needed, smoked salt 2 oz. fresh grapefruit juice 1 tablespoon lime juice 1 teaspoon sugar 2 oz. mezcal As needed, club soda Rim half of a highball glass with smoked salt using a grapefruit wedge to moisten the rim. In the glass combine juices and sugar, stir until dissolved. Stir in mezcal, add ice and top with club soda. Garnish with grapefruit wedge if desired. Alternatively, use mango nectar, skip the sugar, and garnish with chili pepper and salt.
into the psyche of a successful chef and help them to understand how such creative food is produced. The audience gets a glimpse into their personal life as well from Dominque Crenn’s recent passing of her father to Achatz’s struggle with stage 4 tongue cancer. The way Gelb tells his story is highly palatable as well. The cinematography is so artistic; every shot could be a framed photograph. The music composition matches the elevation of the cuisine in a stylistically classy way. It is this type of format which makes Chef’s Table, Season 2 appeal to the masses. It is not just another foodie show or something which only culinarians could enjoy. On the flip side, if you are an aspiring culinarian, you need to watch this series. We are novice chefs in culinary school bound by deadlines and tests. For the next two or three years, we are sequestered among these walls and limited by financial resources (for the most part). What Gelb does during each hour show is transport the viewer to another time and place. From the rolling hillside of Slovenia to the bustling, colorful streets of Bangkok, and the jungles of the Amazon, you are there with the chefs cooking their food. You are in their kitchen; you feel the heat when Crenn screams an order. You are there to feel the comradery of Enrique Olevera’s kitchen when the whole staff tries a new dish. You are there sitting beside Gagaan as he anxiously waits for his name to be called at Asia’s 50 Best reveal. Most importantly, you are there inside the mind of a chef as they walk you through their process of creating new dishes. I am not sure how many of us have the time or ability to travel to Brazil, L.A.,
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LA PAPILLOTE
Graduation
AOS Graduating Class of July 8, 2016 Culinary Arts Group #1
Front Row: Grayson Silver, Zachary Letendre, Jasmine Roriguez, Justin Cooke Back Row: Jay Katz, Lauren Erickson, Jonathan Klip, Gavin Jones, James R. McNamee
Culinary Arts Group #2
Front Row: Alessa Castaldi, Antonio Mazzeo, Andrew Olin, Lauren DeCicco, Harry Nguyen, Emma Bukovsky Back Row: Sung Min Yu, Benjamin Huss, Devin Felix, Jana Sanders, Ryan Robinson, Logan Conant
Culinary Arts Group #3
Front Row: Briana Beers, Milia Early, Jacob Kelly, Alan Meckdala, Luci Heavner, Yi-Yun Chen Sun, Erin Scheibe Back Row: Darcy Stewart, Dakotah Wells, John Bruggemann, Michael Ward, Runnan Wang, Justin Blaize
Baking & Pastry Arts
Front Row: Stephanie Potkovac, Laura Savoca, Maria De La Garza, Kyla Debrito, Kaitlyn Algarin, La Trace Thompson, Vedika Agarwala Back Row: Aysia Luna, Daniella Frissora, Danielle Burzesi, Kelsey Sheeran, Kate Lodge, Anna Meehan, Jose Villalva
July 8, 2016
Graduation
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AOS Graduation Speaker: Sabato Sagaria, MS BY: Shelly Loveland, Staff Contributor
Chief Restaurant Officer, Union Square Hospitality Group
photo courtesy: Leslie Jennings
Library Learning Conrad N. Hilton Commons: Library Monday-Thursday: 7:00am- Monday-Thursday: 8:00am11:00pm 11:00pm Friday: 8:00am-7:00pm Friday: 7:00am-7:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Saturday: 10:00am-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-9:00pm Sunday: Noon-11:00pm Campus Store Video Center Hours: Monday-Thursday: 8:30am- Monday: 10:00am-4:00pm Tuesday-Friday: 10:00am10:00pm 6:00pm Friday: 8:30am-5:00pm Saturday: 11:00am-6:00pm Saturday: Noon-5:00pm Sunday: Noon-8:00pm
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Sabato Sagaria is the chief restaurant officer for Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, which includes some of New York City’s most acclaimed and beloved restaurants. In this position, Mr. Sagaria works closely with Union Square Hospitality Group’s leadership to continuously improve operations and strengthen the restaurant brands. In addition, he oversees the Group’s centralized functions of facilities management, information technology, public relations, and marketing to elevate restaurant operations and guest experience through a collaborative, streamlined approach. Over the past 20 years, Mr. Sagaria has fulfilled many roles at nationally acclaimed restaurants and hotels, from cook to restaurant manager to wine director. Most recently, he directed food and beverage operations at The Little Nell in Aspen, CO, where he played a pivotal role in refining and developing the hotel’s restaurant
concepts, including Element 47 and Ajax Tavern. Earlier, Mr. Sagaria served in leadership roles at The Inn at Little Washington in Washington, VA; the Four Seasons Resort in Palm Beach, FL; and The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, WV. In 2012, Mr. Sagaria became a member of the Court of Master Sommeliers, a prestigious honor held by fewer than 250 individuals worldwide. In
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2600 South Road (Route 9) 845.454.3505 Poughkeepsie Plaza (Near Marshall’s)
2013, he received the Trefethen Vineyards Passionate Wine Service Award and in 2005, was honored with a Wine Hospitality Award from Santé magazine for his wine program at The Greenbrier Sporting Club. Mr. Sagaria holds a bachelor’s degree from the Cornell University School of Hotel Administration. He appeared in the 2012 and 2015 films Somm and Somm: Into the Bottle.
photo courtesy: www.ushgnyc.com
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LA PAPILLOTE
Campus
A Moment with a Master Brewer
BY: Joseph Haffly, AOS Culinary
Hutch Kugeman is the head brewer for the Brewery at the CIA. JH: What brought you into brewing? “I started out as a home brewer, just a hobby really. My older brother taught me how and I have kept up with it since. I was a middle school teacher for some years and kept going with the home brewing, it definitely helped me relax after work. I moved to Portland, Oregon, where I eventually realized that I really wanted to pursue a career in professional brewing, so I started looking for a position. I lived there for a few years and, in that time, applied for a brewing position at the Pelican Pub. I didn’t have the experience they wanted, so I didn’t get the job. I kept in contact with the owner and head brewer and eventually got a call about working as an apprentice brewer. I spent about a year working at the Pelican Pub before coming to New York, where I have been for nearly 15 years.” JH: What led you to the CIA? “I was brewing in smaller locations for the last 14 years. I spent 5 years brewing at Crossroads Brewing Company in Athens, NY. I love to teach; I was a teacher for so many years and I saw the opportunity to combine my love for brewing with my love for teaching. I saw the position here at the Culinary was open and knew it was something I wanted to do, so I applied and here I am. I have been here for 8 months now
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Mexico or Slovenia to experience these items in person so I think it is extremely important for us to devour them through media. With Season 2, Chef’s Table continues to be an important docu-series for the moment; a food driven biographical series which appeals to both industry insiders and the lay person. This
as the head brewer. I really enjoy the small scale brewing I get to do here and the interaction with the customers. I really missed the connection with the customers and all the amazing people you can meet.” JH: Why do you think microbrews have become so popular? “I think it’s been building for a while. There are so many reasons why: people love supporting local business, they are starting to appreciate the unique flavors, and they are starting to demand artisanal products. I mean, in the last 5 years we have seen 15% to 18% industry growth. People are willing to spend more for better beer with better flavor. We are seeing 1.8 new breweries open every day in the U.S. We have more breweries now than ever, even more than pre-prohibition times. People want to be more in touch with the products they purchase and consume.” JH: Do you feel that this industry is going to keep growing? “Yes. You do have to be cautious of economic downturns. A lot of breweries worry about quality and sometimes that comes with cost. Many lack the training or equipment to brew mass volumes of beer, which lowers their incoming profits. This makes small brewers more susceptible to economic issues. There is a huge push for the education of brewers. There aren’t many people qualified, on the spot, for brewing. If the number of educated people
series sets expectations high with poignant delivery of memoirs for some of the greatest culinary artists of our time. I will continue to be on the lookout as Netflix has renewed the series for a third and fourth season already, with the next season focusing solely in France.
Netflix Original Chef’s Table Season 2 photo courtesy: www.netflix.com
increases, then the industry will grow. Another sign of positive growth is the number of small breweries being bought by the big beer companies.” JH: What do you enjoy the most about working at the CIA? “The student knowledge of craft beer is awesome. There is a lot of energy and creativity when it comes to beer and brewing; a lot of intelligent and inspired people are here asking questions I never thought to ask. There’s also a large mix of students interested in the program, which is really cool to see. A lot of conversations on the whole process, business to creativity, some of the flavor ideas are amazing.” JH: Beer dinners? There is the possibility of dinners in the fall featuring beer and food pairings. JH: What are your goals for this program or the outcome?
“I would love to see our students obtain a better command of how we achieve flavor in our beers. I want them to see what ingredients we use, understand the entire process, and know beer’s uses in the industry. If they understand the possible pairings, beer can have a broader range of flavors than wine, allowing it to be matched with more food.” JH: Are craft brews taking place in high class restaurants? “I think every restaurant that doesn’t have a good beer list looks like it is doing something wrong. Anything that doesn’t have a good beer list is behind the times. Beer is more accessible than wine. I don’t want beer to replace wine, I want it to compliment it. I think because beer is more inclusive financially, generally, people are less intimidated by beer. High end restaurants having beer includes more people in the
photo courtesy: ciachef.edu
over all conversation. The beer at the moveable feast in early June made people feel included. The restaurants had both wine and beer which allowed everyone to enjoy themselves and focus on the food.” JH: What do you think of molecular tempering with beer? “It’s great. There isn’t a lot of molecular gastronomy with beer, but there are people trying to figure it out. It’s hard to tamper with the beer using the standard processes. There is a rise of creativity and innovation in the brewing process and ingredients. I think beer has the potential for some really cool molecular gastronomy. Food science and beer pose some really good challenges. I think there is a great future for scientific innovation with beer.”